Adventure Magazine Issue 161

Issue #161//NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIER ADVENTURE MAGAZINE SINCE 1981 New Zealand

ben brown

Issue 161 AUG/SEPT ‘10 NZ$7.90 incl. GST AUST $6.90 incl. GST USA $9.99 CANADA $9.99

walking on water canadian virgins

adventures with an echo

exploring east africa

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all adventure issue

//161

Editor’s note The Universal Truth It is often said there are more magazines per capita in New Zealand than anywhere else in the world; that might even be true, but I doubt it. What is true is that New Zealanders are great buyers of magazine and if you have purchased this (and not just reading it by the news-stand or at the dentist) then you are one of those discerning buyers. If this is a repeat purchase you can bathe yourself in the magazine gourmet glory of making exceptionally superior decisions in your magazine acquisition, in short – good choice!

We are blessed with a plethora of magazines in New Zealand on every subject from cooking and kids to planes and the economy – each aiming to bring some entertainment or information or both to its readers. In house we call this particular issue of Adventure Magazine the ‘all adventures issue’, an issue that looks at the full spectrum available for people to enjoy, to marvel at, to be stunned by what some have achieved and to wonder at the sanity of others.

Historically this issue also highlights the amazing quality of adventure products that New Zealand has access to. Adventure Magazine is seen as a platform to promote products and make readers aware of what is exactly in store and the variety that is accessible.

Over the last five years there has been an incredibly strong movement to a more quality based product range. A movement away from cheap and throw away gear to buyers being educated on both quality and appropriate use. Reader’s who are100% aware of what they are buying will ask for a specific product by name, material and know the value of that product plus its limitations. At Adventure we would like to take some small credit for this development via our gear buyers guides.

In this issue enjoy the visual and editorial entertainment and make good use of the information. Take a moment to visit the website, download us on to your iphone and feel free to give us your feedback. -- Steve Dickinson

Cover: ben brown at nevis bluff, new zealand Photo by miles holden/redbull

Ben Brown as been a long time contributor to Adventure Magazine. He optimises the Adventure writer; he is not sitting at home on the couch making it up as he goes along, instead Ben is out there doing it, letting his ‘actions speak louder than his words’. This is the second time Ben has been on the cover of Adventure and when you see the images you’ll know why.

Editor Steve Dickinson Ph: (09) 428 3182 (09) 428 2443 | Mob: 027 577 5014 p.media@xtra.co.nz Advertising sales Lisa Young Ph: (09) 428 3043 lisa@adventuremagazine.co.nz art director Nina Blackburn Ph: (09) 428 3046 p.media_design@xtra.co.nz Web Guru Erik Baars, erik@erikbaars.com Subscriptions manager Courtney Johns, Ph: (09) 428 3046 subsmagazine@xtra.co.nz

ISSUE #160//NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIER ADVENTURE MAGAZINE SINCE 1981 NEW ZEALAND

JUNE-JULY 2010/WHERE /WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS//

Contributing Writers and Photographers Martin Edström, Mark Fisher, Mark Kalch, Ben Brown, Ali Smith, Lynne Dickinson, Graeme Murray Distribution Gordon & Gotch, Ph (09) 979 3000 other publications Curl | Ski & Snow | Prime Times

Issue 160 JUNE/JULY 2010 NZ$7.90 incl. GST AUST $6.90 incl. GST USA $9.99 CANADA $9.99

// 160 WINTER ISSUE

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ADVENTURE EDUCATION PAID TO PLAY

WALKING ON A DREAM

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26/05/2010 1:30:11 p.m.

now delivered straight to your iphone

If you go to iTunes please look for PressReader application. It is a free app (paid content). The first 7 issues of Adventure are free, with subscription plan kicking in after that. The iPad app has been out for three weeks, but has shot into top apps lists across different countries.

Publishers NZ Adventure magazine is published six times a year by: Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562 Whangaparaoa, New Zealand Ph (09) 428 3182 | Fax: (09) 428 2443 Email: p.media@xtra.co.nz Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped self-addressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein.

Pacific Media publications are independently audited

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Rafael Ortiz in Mexico Photo by: Mauricio Ramos/Red Bull

//161 all adventures issue

06 ben brown walking on water 16 change in vacation attitudes 24 gallery: mark fisher 34 Waiatoto, good wholesome fun 38 exploring east afriCa 44 baCkyard adventure 48 adventures with an echo 54 adventure education guide 60 paige hareb 74 canadian virgin regulars

//20 Just random //36 subscription //58 fathers day guide //64 gear buyers guide //78 classifieds

shaun white, project x photo by Adam Moran

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 3

Fraser Mcdougall Seen through the lens of Tim Pierce

Raging Viking Jacket thenorthface.com.au

The North Face速 Snow Report AU stockists: 02 8306 3311 NZ stockists: 0800 805 806

Ben brown:

walking on water story Alison Smith photos GRAEME MURRAY

Ben Brown has featured in Adventure for as long as we can remember; dropping off massive waterfalls and surfing giant river waves. Where ever there is remote treacherous white water, Ben does not seem far away. We were recently sent these amazing images taken by Graeme Murray of Ben’s conquest of Nevis Bluff in the South Island. These images sum up Ben’s approach, courage and his world class ability.

Thanks to Ali Smith for providing us with more insight into the man behind the paddle.

It’s hard to comprehend the danger of Ben’s lifestyle as I sit watching edited snippets of it from a laptop in an Auckland Brasserie. Ben is on his fourth caffeine hit for the morning and has flipped open his laptop to help explain his job: that is, as New Zealand’s highest profile Whitewater Kayaker, to take ridiculously dangerous looking waterfalls and negotiate

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furious whitewater in kayak adventures around the world.

Previous communication from Ben came via satellite connection to his computer, where he sat on the banks of the worlds longest river in remote Uganda amid Elephants and villagers with whom his kayak expedition traded dollars for fresh pineapple. The boy from Hamilton regularly

ventures to the world’s danger zones to seek out the adrenaline rush produced from paddling hard water in places never before touched by man.

The video clips shot by Ben and few other of the world’s best kayakers is a first hand window to his world and, unsurprisingly, this footage gets similar response from all who view it. “It’s definitely viewed as a crazy extreme sport and people accuse you of being crazy,” he says.

“Paddling off waterfalls definitely generates a lot of interest.”

Dressed in his version of a uniform - grey sweatshirt emblazoned with a sponsor’s name, casual pants and cap - Ben has the lean and strong build you’d expect of an athlete but at 1.92m (6ft2) he is tall for a kayaker. At age 31, he has already kayaked for 18 years and has become internationally recognised.

His love for the sport has taken him all over the world to find new rivers; hiking over hills and backpacking to the remotest, poorest, malarial-infected parts of Africa or paddling icy cold European waters where has never tread. It takes some prompting, but Ben will tell of ‘Iceberg Forests’ and paddling away from hungry crocs during an

expedition on the Nile.

Sponsored by Red Bull, Riot Kayaks, Palm Equipment, Adventure Technology Paddles, Oakley and Teva he features in kayaking videos and magazines as well as acting as a tester and consultant on untried equipment designs. Ben spends six to eight months of every year filming and doing photo shoots overseas as well as competing in the occasional extreme kayaking event. The search also continues at home in New Zealand, which he still considers one of the world’s best spots for kayaking.

Riot kayak founder, South African-born Corran Addison, chooses Ben for the most difficult kayaking expeditions. “He’d be one of my first choices for when there is no turning back,” says Corran.

“His natural abilities are rare; his understanding of the water and environment around him are unusual and he’s got to a level of paddling that few people will ever attain.

I’m not sure what makes him tick,” says Addison. “He’s motivated by a true love of life and the sport [and] he’s dedicated to pushing his limits but it’s a very personal thing.” n

His love for the sport has taken him all over the world to find new rivers; hiking over hills and backpacking to the remotest, poorest, malarial-infected parts of Africa or paddling icy cold European waters where has never tread. www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 9

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 11

“His natural abilities are rare; his understanding of the water and environment around him are unusual and he’s got to a level of paddling that few people will ever attain.

I’m not sure what makes him tick,” 12//WHERE

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ben brown:

up close & personal We find out more about the man who is making waves in New Zealand’s kayaking sport

Do you have any rituals or superstitions with your sport? What are they?

Many years ago I took a pretty serious thrashing in a big rapid in NZ. On that particular day it was very gloomy and rainy and for a long time I was quite superstitious about paddling hard whitewater in the rain. Obviously this has become quite problematic over the years so is one superstition I have had to break.

What do you have love most about your sport? There are so many things I love about the sport of kayaking. Of course the obvious adrenaline fix from charging off a huge waterfall keeps me coming back for more but I think one of the greatest things about our sport are the places you go and the people you meet. In seeking out my adventure through kayaking I have seen some places and experienced some cultures that few people are fortunate enough to experience. The people you meet along the way and the friendships that are forged through shared adventure are life long.

How old were you when you first started your sport? Started competing?

I first sat in a kayak at the age of 12 and competed in my first Secondary Schools Slalom competition not long after. How quickly 17 years has flown by!

If you could go anywhere in the world tomorrow for your sport, where would it be? Probably Norway. Never have I been to a country with such

a huge number of runnable waterfalls. I spent three weeks filming in Norway this year and we only just scratched the surface of what’s there.

It’s also pretty hard to go past the Zambezi at this time of year – perfect water levels, huge rapids, warm water and frosty beers, what more could you ask for!

When’s the last time you got absolutely worked in your sport? I try to avoid the workings as much as possible but when you’re running hard whitewater they are inevitable. I spent an uncomfortable amount of time trapped under a slab of rock in Quebec this year. The water was pushing

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me deeper under the rock and the only way I could go was down. Luckily after wriggling my way for about 20 feet and 35 seconds I came right through…. Scary stuff.

What gives you the best adrenaline rush? The best adrenaline rush is definitely plugging off a 50+ foot waterfall. The feeling of freefall as you fly towards the bottom is what I live for and always keeps me coming back for more.

What’s your take on the progression of your sport? For me kayaking has

always been about getting from the top of the river to the bottom. In this sense the progression to me will be in what will become possible to run in a kayak. I think that the way kayaking is portrayed in the mainstream media is also important to it’s progression. Kayaking needs to be seen as a cool sport that kids see on TV or in Magazines and immediately think they’d like to do that! In order for a sport like kayaking to grow it needs to be appealing to people as well as being accessible. With the continued development of whitewater parks combined with a positive and attractive representation of the sport in the media I think the future is very bright.

If you could do your sport with anyone in the world, who would it be?

Steve Fisher. I have been paddling with Steve for the last ten years and we have been on many expeditions together. He brings a ton of experience to the river and is great fun to party with off it. We share similar values and goals with what we want to achieve through the sport of kayaking.

What’s the first thing you do after a session?

Drink a cold can of Red Bull and stretch. Every now and again I kiss dry land but I try and make that post session ritual as rare as possible!

What’s your favorite video section for your sport?

Probably the intro section of ‘Black Book’. Fantastic footage and brilliant editing to music that gets me off the couch and into the boat quick smart!

What’s the sketchiest move you’ve done, or place you’ve done your sport?

The sketchiest place I have ever kayaked is by far and away the Murchison Falls section of the Nile River in Northern Uganda. This section of the Nile is 45 miles long and flows northwards towards Southern Sudan. It is home to some of the biggest rapids on the planet as well as the highest concentration of Hippo’s and Nile Crocodiles found anywhere in the world. Just when you don’t think it could get any worse the northern shore is LRA rebel territory – one of the most dangerous rebel groups in Africa. Having said all that, completing our trip down was one of the most memorable and rewarding experiences of my life.

What’s your training regime? Most of my training is done on the water

however since a serious back injury I have been spending a lot more time in the Gym keeping my core strength and stability as good as possible in order to prevent any more injuries.

Performance products for the outdoor lifestyle

Who is your hero? My Dad. He has inspired me to follow my dream and has supported me every step of the way.

What’s your guilty pleasure? Custard in a carton! I love that stuff. Try not to eat too much of it but always have a carton in the fridge for a sneaky after dinner treat!

Elkridge Mid

Do you have any nicknames? Brownie, Brown Dogg.

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What’s a little known fact about you? My Grandfather spoke at Ghandis

funeral in front of over 1 million people.

What’s your biggest pet peeve? Worst habit? People throwing rubbish out

their car windows – gets me fired up! My worst habit is probably leaving my wet kayaking gear in the boot of my car, makes that vehicle hum like nobodies business!

Woodside

Robust hiker with waterproof leather and suede upper, eVent waterproof lining, compression molded midsole to provide under-foot comfort and stability and 4.5mm cross-directional lugs to give traction on a variety of terrain.

What’s the biggest obstacle you’ve had to overcome? Coming back from

a broken back a couple of years ago, both physically and mentally. It was pretty hard to see the light at the end of the tunnel lying flat on my back in Northern Thailand being told that my spine was broken in two places. I found that concentrating on turning the negative into a positive and focusing on training and rehabbing really hard so that I came back bigger, better, faster and stronger than before helped to keep me going. Having faith in the hours of hard work I had put in meant that when I sat back in the boat I had the confidence to keep doing what I do best.

Reyes

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What are you afraid of? Hippos! Man I hate those things, been chased by

them way too many times!

Describe an embarrassing moment. When I was studying at University I was

sitting in the back of a lecture theatre with about 400 people listening to a particularly boring Law Professor. My phone was on silent and rang in my pocket. I very stealthily answered it and ducked my head into my arms to talk. After several minutes of organizing the evenings festivities I ended the call and looked up to see a very stern looking professor as well as 400 faces turned around to look at me! Needless to say I was very quickly ejected from the class but luckily passed the paper and didn’t have to endure too many more lectures from said Professor!

exploring the best whitewater this planet has to offer so it’s probably too many to mention here! Africa is the pace that probably keeps enticing me back more than anywhere else. With every day dawns another adventure!

What bones have you broken, stitches you’ve gotten, and battle wounds have you earned? Broke my back in two places running a waterfall in Northern

Thailand. Had a few sets of stitches, mainly in my face from face meeting rock encounters. Got the obligatory scarred knuckles from being dragged down too many rapids the wrong way up. All part of the game I suppose.

What’s your personal website? www.benbrown.co.nz

www.allsports.co.nz

Where have you been in the world? I have been to well over 40 countries

What’s your obsession, and what else do you spend money on, other than your sport? Kayaking is my obsession – I live it, sleep it, eat it and drink it!

Spending a lot of money on fishing gear at the moment. Just built a house on the West Coast of New Zealand and am spending a bunch of time out in the boat trying to catch fish. Every time I go to buy bait I seem to get sucked into buying the latest gadget that fish apparently find irresistible! n

It’s About Balance

//161 //active holidays

A change in attidude to “Vacations” Most energetic Kiwis are not content to just loll around on a Pacific Island atoll when they go on holiday, but are seeking destinations that offer a rush of adrenaline-packed action and adventure.

Active holidays have increased dramatically around the globe over the past ten years, and, with adventurous New Zealanders in mind, Adventure Magazine has picked out some off the beaten track destinations where energetic holidaymakers can enjoy plenty of action, while also taking in the local culture, cuisine and sights.

China

Cycling in China. When most people think of visiting China, they often don’t see past the Great Wall, the big city sophistication of Beijing, or Shanghai’s historical Bund. However, China is a huge and diverse country, and if you venture off the beaten track, you can find trips which offer hiking, biking, rafting and kayaking, while still taking in the major sights. For example, cycling is an ideal way to explore the old hudongs of Beijing. Get away from tourist hordes by hiking for a couple of days along lesser known sections of the Great Wall. Visit Shaolin, the birthplace of Kungfu and join a Kung fu class at China’s oldest and largest Kung fu academy. Go to Xian, the home of the archaeological wonder of the Terracotta Warriors, which were buried for 200 years complete with horses and chariots. After catching up with the ancient warriors, bike high above the ancient city walls for a bird’s eye view of the old city. Another favourite for active travellers is the Guilin region and Yangshuo. Cycle around rows and rows of rice paddy fields or go rafting on a bamboo raft down the Li River, as it winds its way around towering limestone pinnacles. Although tourism has opened up widely in China, English is not spoken much outside the major cities, so it is advisable to join a group of 10-15 travellers to discover the China that most travellers never glimpse.

Antarctica

Be Active in Antarctica. Travellers who have been to Antarctica rate it as a once in a lifetime experience, and an Antarctic holiday has to be the ultimate experience in adventure travel. There is the opportunity to sea kayak in the Antarctic sounds while gliding past massive icebergs, and also to enjoy adventure activities such as ice climbing and cross country skiing. Antarctica is also a fascinating destination for wildlife enthusiasts, as it is possible to sight Minke whales, and to observe vast penguin rookeries, while travelling in a polar class ice breaker which pushes through dense ice packs to reach the remote shores of the Antarctic continent.

South America

And as many Antarctic trips leave from South America, why not stop off for an active sojourn in Patagonia? According to National Geographic magazine a visit to Patagonia is an adventure-travel rite of passage. Patagonia is a huge area, and includes tracts of Chile

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and Argentina, although it has a scant population of only around 2 million.

Patagonia is an adventure by definition as its geography is full of snowy peaks (it includes the southernmost portion of the Andes mountains), craggy spires and glacial lakes. Highlights of an adventure tour to Patagonia could include mountain biking through Upper Patagonia’s inspiring beauty, a trek through the heart of the Andes, and a raft trip on the mighty El Manso River. Although there are attractions and activities available year round a really good time to explore Patagonia is April/ May when the autumn leaves are turning colour and the summer crowds have gone. Most of the tourism services are located in San Carlos de Bariloche, on the southeast border of the Nahuel Huapi Lake, and inside the National Park of the same name. There is plenty to do year round, but in winter the range of winter sports is dazzling: skiing, mountain biking, snowboard, snow polo and paragliding can all be practised at Cerro Catedral (Cathedral Mountain) less than 20 km from Bariloche. Cerro Catedral is one of the biggest ski centres in South America with more than 100 km of ski runs and a lift capacity of 22,000 skiers per hour.

Brazil

Brazil is also a true adventurers’ dream as it combines beautiful beaches, tropical rain forests, as well as the mighty Amazon River. You can island hop by kayak in the bays of Paraty and the only tropical fiord

in Brazil. See some of the best beaches on Brazil’s tropical Green Coast.

Conquer the island of Ihla Bela by bike and hike the trails of the car-free island paradise of Ihla Grande. Travel from the mega city of Sao Paulo to Rio Janeiro and enjoy a three day biking excursion, three days of hiking from Paraty, and three days hiking on Ihla Grande.

Costa Rica

Costa Rica is another paradise for adventure seekers and eco tourists. Visit Monteverde, an area christened number 14 of the Americas in Newsweek’s 100 Places to Remember before they Disappear, and has also been called by National Geographic the “jewel in the crown of cloud forest reserves.” The bulk of Monteverde’s rain forest and cloud forest can be found in the Reserva Biologica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde, a private nature reserve created in 1972 and administered by the Tropical Science Centre. There are nine main trails and the massive 10,500 hectare Reserve draws 70,000 tourists a year. It also has stunning flora and fauna and is known as the site with the largest number of orchids in the world, with 34 of its 500 species newly discovered. The reserve, which contains six distinct ecological zones, has more than 60 species of amphibians, and 91 species of migratory birds. It is called a cloud forest rather than a rain forest as clouds often cover the top of the forest because of its high altitude.

Brazil is also a true adventurers’ dream as it combines beautiful beaches, tropical rain forests, as well as the mighty Amazon River.

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There is also the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. People can visit the forest via walking platforms and zip lines (like flying foxes). Rincon de la Vieja is also an eco adventure hotspot, with an active volcano and a national park.

Travellers can hike up the volcano, which has not erupted since 1983. You can also visit Samara beaches, which are great for diving and water sports.

Egypt

Once you have explored the Pyramids, why not dive into Egypt’s Red Sea? The Red Sea is host to the most northerly coral reef in the world with more than 400 varieties of coral and 1500 species of fish. The Red Sea offers some of the best snorkelling sites found anywhere in the world. One of the best sites is the amazing “Blue Hole” where a dramatic chasm in the coral reef – approximately 70mm in diameter – attracts a fantastic array of colourful fish and marine life.

Egypt offers an activity holiday with a difference. Start from Dahab, where beaches and turquoise waters meet the spectacular backdrop of the rugged red hued mountains, and discover an underwater paradise which contrasts dramatically with the desert interior of the Sinai Peninsula, which can be explored by 4WD, camel and on foot. Or visit the Ras Mohammed National Park for more snorkelling opportunities, as well as windsurfing.

For more information on a wide range of active holidays around the globe, visit online www.adventureworld.co.nz or call us on freephone 0800 899 111. n

//161 //just random/products/news/giveaways

Destination Rotorua photo Nick Lambert

Rotorua is one of the world’s best mountain biking destinations, with visitors flocking to the Whakarewarewa Forest in droves every year to enjoy the extensive range of tracks.

The region’s mountain biking is outstanding because of its high-quality purpose-built trails. Just minutes from the city centre, Whakarewarewa Forest is a mountain biking heaven, with tracks so good they regularly make headlines. All these tracks are signposted according to difficulty; visitors are advised not to try tracks beyond their skill or experience level. Mountain biking is, after all, an adventure sport and is not without risk.

Local mountain bike enthusiast Fred Christianson, along with community service workers, built the forest’s first trails in 1993. There is now a vast network of tracks that caters to all levels, including advanced riders looking for extreme action. Entry to the forest is free.

Mountain biking brings huge economic benefits to Rotorua; the region hosts a variety of mountain biking events that attract

an increasing number of visitors to town.

Bikes and equipment can be hired from a range of shops around

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Rotorua and staff members at these places have great local knowledge.

Hiking is also a great way to explore the region. Tracks in the Whakarewarewa Forest are stunning and range from 30 minutes to several hours long.

But for something a bit different try an 1111m hike to the top of Mt Tarawera or check out the spectacular Whirinaki Forest, in Te Urewera National Park. Here unique eco-cultural wilderness treks wind their way into remote indigenous podocarp and beech forests. This area is home to some of New Zealand’s most magnificent indigenous rainforest and is rich in native birdlife.

Whirinaki Forest also has its share of mountain bike tracks. The purpose-built grade 2-3 Whirinaki track requires a medium fitness and skill level. The 16km track generally takes 2-4 hours to ride.

Visit www.rotoruaNZ.com or www.riderotorua.com for more information. n

Don’t shoot yourself in the foot.

Get a PLB. During April Todd and Adam were choppered in to one of Lakeland Aviations private blocks with a hut in the Tauranga Taupo river area of the Kaimanawa Forest Park for a week of deer hunting.

Adam had walked about a kilometer up river late afternoon to hopefully get a shot at some deer coming out on a clearing they’d spotted earlier on.

It was about a quarter of an hour after dark when Todd saw the torch light approaching from up river and heard a commotion. He thought it was Adam yelling at him to come and help carry a kill back.

As he got closer he could hear the urgency in Adams shouts for help and when he got to him found that Adam had accidently shot himself in the foot as he picked up his gun after a long session of waiting for a deer to show.The 800m walk in close to freezing water had helped block the pain and control the bleeding but once they got to the hut and removed the boot the full extent of the injury was apparent.

The bullet had entered the inside of the instep of the left foot and smashed through the metatarsals before exiting the outside of the foot, leaving torn flesh and bone in its wake.

Todd immediately activated his MCMURDO FF211 PLB, leaving it out on the deck area with a clear view of the sky. An hour later they heard the SAR chopper and were relieved at the rapid response from the rescue crew. When talking to the chopper crew they said that with the night vision goggles on they could see the flashing SOS LED on the PLB from over 5km away and the that co-ordinates were right on at the hut.

Todd has had his PLB tested and the top cover replaced by Bright Ideas ELB and is telling every hunter he knows to get a PLB because you never know when you’re going to need it.

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Issue 161 2010 APR/MAY GST incl.

NZ$7.90 incl. GST AUST $6.90 USA $9.99 $9.99 CANADA

in mounstsau e bike i

TAKING THE SEARCH OUT OF SEARCH AND RESCUE

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Peace of mind for loved ones and so small it fits in a pocket!

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coming soon

Adventure 162: Mountain Bike Issue Adventure Mountain bike issue on sale mid October, some thing for every level, what’s hot to wear, retails stores for all your accessory needs and a wide range of cycle service store through out New Zealand.

Explore with us five of the best mountain bike tracks in New Zealand and also some of the best accommodation for all kinds of adventures We will bring to you a wide range of mountain bike events that you can mark on your calander, we have some fantastic editorial on two of the biggest cycle events in NZ and something special from overseas.

To make sure your product features in this comprehensive mountain bike gear guide, contact Lisa on 09 428 3043 or email lisa@adventuremagazine.co.nz.

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 21

ISSUE #160//NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIER ADVENTURE MAGAZINE SINCE 1981 NEW ZEALAND

JUNE-JULY 2010/WHERE /WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS//

Issue 160 JUNE/JULY 2010 NZ$7.90 incl. GST AUST $6.90 incl. GST USA $9.99 CANADA $9.99

// 160 WINTER ISSUE

ALASKA

OUT OF THE FRIDGE AND INTO THE FREEZER

Adven #160.indd 1

ADVENTURE EDUCATION PAID TO PLAY

WALKING ON A DREAM

ACROSS IRAN ON FOOT

26/05/2010 1:30:11 p.m.

now delivered straight to your iphone

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SPOT2

GPS Tracking Device $399.00

NEW from SPOT the SPOT2 is 30% smaller and has faster GPS acquisition according to the manufacturer. Spot 2 also has additional function buttons and LED’s to confirm that the satellite has been acquired.

SPOT2 measures 94 x 66 x 26mm and weighs only 148grams. These are NOW available ex stock See www.findmespot.net.nz Phone 09.4206079 or email sales@aviationsafety.co.nz

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As 200 billion one-use plastic water bottles are used annually worldwide, it is clear that this wasteful practice requires a conscious change. Applying the Envirosax philosophy of replacing one-use items with reusable alternatives and making them fashionable and fun to use, Envirosax Aqua is a natural progression for a market already embracing shopping bag re-use.

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KANNAD

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NEW and yes it is a rebranded McMurdo Mini now also rebranded a Kannad XS-4 to replace the more expensive Kannad XS-3 that is no longer manufactured. Size 47 x 34 x 106mm plus the pouch and it weighs only 150 grams. The Kannad XS-4 is aimed at the Aviation market See www.aviationsafety.co.nz Phone 09.4206079 or email sales@aviationsafety.co.nz

Product reviews I do a lot of walking and have brought some shocking socks in my time so I was more than happy to try the new Mund sock.

I was on holiday with some friends in Porongia when someone suggested a tramp up the mountain, so on with the boots and Mund socks. At first I thought they were very thick but after several hours of walking my feet were in heaven. They kept my feet dry and very warm, and had all the right padding in the right places.

I have worn these socks on several hikes over the last few months and would not be without my Mund socks they are the best.

I am a fisho from way back and enjoy a lot of night fishing. When I was asked to review the Led Lenser headlamp and Leatherman knife I was a bit sceptical.

I was truly amazed with the range of the headlamp not only could I see in front of me but also along way out to sea. I have used it for numerous trips and have not had to change the batteries. The fit was comfortable and easy to wear.

My wife has used it for walking at night and she has now gone and brought her own just this week.

The leatherman knife was fantastic, so many uses in one compact easy to use tool.

Great to cut line and I even had to us the bottle opener on my Heineken. Very heavy duty construction and has not shown any signs of rust (it live in the tackle box). Both of these products are of very high quality and I would rate them 8 out of 10.

Go online to view these and other great products from www.tightlines.co.nz

Love Bear Grylls? Go online at www.adventuremagazine.co.nz for your chance to win a copy of Discovery Channel’s latest series of Man vs.Wild: Ultimate Survivor (Aug/Sep Issue) Mount Everest, Freezing Atlantic Oceans and Himalayan peaks are but notches on Bear Grylls accomplished survival belt. After going places and experiencing situations that defeat most people, Bear’s proven he’s a born survivor and the first collection of Man Vs Wild Season Two is no exception.

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Visit www.adventuremagazine.co.nz to view all our product giveaways, gear guide and education feature and the latest news...

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//photo gallery/mark fisher

Gallery: mark fisher

My first foray into “real” adventure began as an adventure-starved teenager, bored out of my mind living in suburban Ft. Worth,TX. We’d drive my old Ford escort to the top of 10-story parking garages at night, tie an army surplus rope around the bumper, and rappel down the structure.

Numerous mishaps ensued but I eventually figured out how to climb, thanks to the help of some really good mentors. This “apprenticeship” began in 1994 at the Quartzite climbing mecca of Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin.

Since then I’ve been climbing throughout the world with my favorite venues being Yosemite, CA, Alaska, and Indian Creek, UT. My interests and opportunities for skiing, alpine climbing, backpacking, biking, and world travel were sparked at this time as well. I was lucky to grow up living throughout the world in places like Dubai, Korea, Malaysia and Germany.

These experiences fueled my desire to travel and developed the keen interest I have in people.

Although I took photo classes in high school and tried my best to document life through the lens it wasn’t until I was living in Germany in 1999-2000 and worked for a commercial photographer that I really began to get serious about photography. Additionally, I worked at the in Santa Fe, New Mexico for a season to further hone my skills. Although I have many inspirations in photography, Ansel Adams was my first as a result of all the hours spent in a darkroom trying to emulate his masterful landscapes and painstakingly dodging and burning my prints. Galen Rowell inspired my adventure work, and still does. Richard Avedon, among others, fuel my passions in the realm of portrait photography.

Although I have a distinct style, I find inspiration and learning in the works of other photographers, as well as from the people with whom I recreate and meet throughout my travels.

I moved back to the states in 2001 and my first published work appeared in a 2001 Patagonia catalog; it was a lifestyle shot at the Devil’s Tower general store. I worked for many years as a mountain guide for Alpine Ascents International, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, and the National Outdoor Leadership School as well as a photographer before switching to full-time photography in 2006. I have called Victor, Idaho home since 2001. I love the community most and that’s ultimately what keeps me here. It doesn’t hurt to have world-class skiing, climbing, and mountain biking out my back door, either. Although my outdoor adventure and photography roots lie in rock climbing, I actually spend the most time on skis these days traveling the world in search of epic powder. My photography focuses on outdoor lifestyle, action sports, and environmental portraiture and has appeared throughout the world in various editorial publications, including multiple covers. Some of my commercial clients include Patagonia, The North Face, Atomic, Volkl, Black Diamond, Columbia Sportswear, Outdoor Research, and Smith Sport Optics. n My website: www.markfisherphoto.com

RIGHT: Two climbers ascend the upper glacier towards the summit of Island Peak, Nepal, 6,189m

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Seth Morrison on a warm-up run in Haines, Alaska

Tina Sommers climbs the venerable Indian Creek classic, Scarface, 5.11a, during a beautiful fall day, Utah

Mark Fisher during a day of shooting at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, photo by Jill Garreffi

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CJ Pearson navigates upper part of the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 in the Alaska Range, Grade V, 5.8, AI 3

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Erik Roner disappears into some of the deepest powder we’ve ever experienced in Haines, Alaska

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Jeremy Nobis finds a secret powder stash in Haines, Alaska

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 31

wonders of kaikoura Kaikoura the play ground that has more then just its famous marine life. Arriving in this seaside town you are mesmerised by the beautiful coast line About 180,000 years ago periods of rapid uplift raised the layers of limestone and siltstone laid down on the sea-bed about 60 million years before to form the twisted and weathered outcrops that today make up the Kaikoura Peninsula. Originally an island, the peninsula has since been joined to the mainland by steep plains built up of debris swept down from the mountains in the Hapuka and Kowhai rivers.

The climate, although influenced by the Mountains, is moderated by the effect of the sea.

Lying in the “sun belt” of New Zealand, Kaikoura can boast of an average of over 2000 sunshine hours a year. In the winter the high mountains are snow clad adding to the splendour of the views.

Kaikoura is becoming the seabird watching capital of New Zealand. Bird watching off Kaikoura is new, exciting and completely under rated. Nowhere else in New Zealand is there such

a vast array of ocean going (Pelagic) birds within close proximity to land.

Ranging from the majestic Royal Albatross (Toroa), weighing in at 9kgs and huge wing span of over 3 metres, right down to the tiny Diving Petrel (Kuaka) at a mere 130 grams and full height of 20cms.

Adventures such as Whale Watching by sea or air, Scenic Flights, Seal & Dolphin Swimming, Shark viewing, sea kayaking, Bird Watching, Fishing & Scuba Diving from Boat or Shore, Hang Gliding, Horse Treks, Rafting, Mountain Biking, 4-wheel Drive Trips, ride Clydesdales, Bush & Coastal Walks, Serious Tramping, Hunting or even Major Climbs are offered by experienced operators.

Opportunities are everywhere, to take those holiday photos that will make your friends envious on returning home. n

Whale Watching

Whale Watch is New Zealand’s only marine-based whale watching company operating year round.

Whale Watch Kaikoura Ltd offers visitors an exciting up-close encounter with the Giant Sperm Whale. Our 95% success rate means we guarantee an 80% refund if your tour does not see a whale.

Whale Watch is located in the town of Kaikoura, a scenic 2.5 hours drive north of Christchurch in New Zealand’s South Island.

Towering snow-covered peaks fall to the ocean here, while just offshore a deep undersea canyon attracts an extraordinary abundance of marine life, the most famous being the Sperm Whale.

Kaikoura’s resident Sperm Whales are the largest living carnivore - equivalent in size to four elephants. They share their unique world with a host of other whale and dolphin species, seals and albatross - all regular sightings aboard Whale Watch tours.

Designed specially for whale watching, our modern catamarans are equipped with engines that minimise underwater noise and toilets that never pollute the sea. The main passenger cabin is enclosed and outside decks offer great viewing and photo opportunities. Spacious airconditioned interiors are fitted with comfortable seating while large plasma screens display our award-winning marine wildlife animations.

Whale Watch is committed to providing a quality whale watching experience while carefully managing the use of a rare natural resource. As a Maori-owned company, Whale Watch cherishes the twin values of hospitality to visitors and reverence for the natural world. It is a philosophy that embraces people, the land, the sea and all living things as one. To book, contact: Whale Watch Kaikoura Ltd Phone: 64-3-319 7721 / Fax: 64-3-319 5160 The Whaleway Station PO Box 89,Kaikoura, New Zealand www.whalewatch.co.nz

Whale Watch cherishes the twin values of hospitality to visitors and reverence for the natural world. It is a philosophy that embraces people, the land, the sea and all living things as one.

Tours operate all year Modern fleet of purpose built catamarans 95% success rate backed up by an 80% refund if your tour does not see a whale Experienced knowledgeable staff Award winning onboard animations

Kaikoura Wilderness Walks Experience the Wilderness Walk of a Lifetime. New Zealand at its purest.

This holistic wilderness encounter is an opportunity for the ultimate getaway. Eco friendly Shearwater Lodge offers superb alpine luxury at 1000m (3280ft). This exclusive Guided Walk traverses NZ’s highest privately owned land rising to 2,438m (8,000ft).

Experience total seclusion with a maximum of 12 guests.

Encounter only flora and fauna in the internationally renowned Puhi Peaks Nature Reserve. This is an authentic and sensory wilderness experience with expansive vistas from the mountain tops to the sea being a constant feature of this stunning walk.

Our guide ratio of 1 to 6, with our highly informative and skilled guides, allows for a very personal journey. Each has their own story to tell.

This family operated business offers an extraordinary mix of professionalism combined with attention to detail, creature comforts and a commitment to making our guests feel totally “at home.” All mixed in with a lot of fun.

Accommodation is at Shearwater Lodge - nestled at the bush edge in a spectacular alpine valley at 1000m. Our luxurious eco friendly lodge provides the ultimate retreat. A total sanctuary in an alpine environment that boasts total sound and light pollution. No cell phones here!

Scenic Transfers to and from the walk ex Kaikoura are part of this all inclusive journey. Carry only your day pack, allow us to do the rest.

Walk and relax in, “The World of the Gods” - our stunning alpine retreat before returning to the real world 100% relaxed and rejuvenated. We hope you can join us!

Kaikoura Wilderness Walks Reservations & Enquiries Freephone 0800 945 337 or 0064 3 319 6966 info@kaikourawilderness.co.nz www.kaikourawilderness.co.nz www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 33

//161 //new zealand/waiatoto/rafting

Waiatoto:

wholesome fun This is really a story to strike a chord in the hearts of good wholesome kiwi adventurers. It’s about everyday kiwis getting together with a good bunch of mates and putting to action what we often sit around talking about.

So we set a date and put the invitation out for a rafting journey to be made down the Waiatoto River, in South Westland. For anyone who has been down the Waiatoto River, you will sit there and smile, because you know the stories are true. The Waiatoto River has got to be one of the MOST beautiful and wildly stunning multiday river trips in New Zealand!

None of the final 13 that made our group had been down the Waiatoto previously, so to add to the pleasure it was new to all. Not only is the area new to us all, but so was the means of travel. There were several in our group that had never been rafting before, let alone a 3 day wilderness heli-rafting trip. Lucky for us we have a great team of regular river rats in the mix with an abundance of skills. No stone was left unturned in preparation for our trip down the Waiatoto, and so we were

left with the decision on appropriate footwear. In earlier ‘war meetings’, used to figure out our plan of attack, there had been deliberation about gumboots. We chuckled over the thought of 13 pairs of gumboots going down the river on the oar rig. And chuckle we did when all but one of the team sat around the campfire at night with gummy’s on, and boy did you need them. (Note: they are also needed for the airstrip used for the helicopter, the most cow poo’s per blade of grass I have ever seen!)

The morning we were due to fly, greeted us with a bluebird sky (which didn’t last long), and the excitement of getting in the helicopter and heading up the river. Once the chopper landed patches of cloud and showers swirled in and out of the valley, sometimes briefly receding to give us a glimpse of the glaciers, very close by.

For anyone who has been down the Waiatoto River, you will sit there and smile, because you know the stories are true. The Waiatoto River has got to be one of the MOST beautiful and wildly stunning multiday river trips in New Zealand!

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We had our expert team on rigging the rafts, while we all pitched in to pump boats and lug the gear around. The first day was a great mix of fun grade 3 and flat water. You need the flat water because you’re constantly plagued on where to look, 20 different waterfalls, mountains, river, valley. You want to soak it all up like a sponge.

When camping in the wet West Coast forest, it’s hard to find dry wood, but it’s there and when you find it, you will be well rewarded with a great campfire.

Campfires are the backbone of something truly wholesome. It flows on to good food, drink and company.

The following day the weather pulled one out of the hat, absolutely bluebird day for real! Not a cloud in the sky, just welcome sunshine. This day had a little more in store for us with some gorge sections to the river and challenging whitewater. Again we were well taken care of in this field, and my hat goes of to Simon, who guided our giant oar rig laden with gear down the hard stuff, not to mention the brave paddlers that went with him! We also have to pay tribute to Jamey, who sacrificed herself from the raft so that the whole boat didn’t flip, good on ya girl.

The spectacular scenery didn’t let up one bit, glorious sunshine, exciting rapids and another amazing campsite. We had a great sandy beach perfect for fluro Frisbee at night, and wise old beach trees to provide shelter.

The following day reminded us we were on the West Coast, it had to rain for us once again, but nothing could dampen our spirits. We were all just getting into the swing of things, so try not to think about it being the last day on the river and just enjoy! Enjoy we did, with a few rapids of significance, we terrorized our token foreigner, and then relaxed through the flat section that lead us back to civilization (airstrip with lots of cow poo’s). It is just one of those trips that stays with you.

Instead of fading it seems to grow the warm fuzzys inside, looking at photos and catching up with the team, there is a twinkle in our eyes. We were living the dream, good wholesome fun. Now when we catch up with one another there is one common sentence spoken.

“When’s the next trip?”

At this point I feel we all deserve a little credit, however I must say we could not have done it without the river crew, gear and generosity of Ultimate Descents, they really know how it make it happen. Cheers, I look forward to the next trip! n

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 35

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adventures with an echo

exploring east africa

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//161 //travel/south africa

exploring

east africa

Africa is an awe-inspiring continent. A place that offers up such extremes in environment, climate, people and standards of living. story and photos by mark kalch www.markkalch.com Living and working in South Africa as a white-water guide had given me a good introduction to this vast land but, some might say, a light-on view. In Cape Town, over summer I was given a chance to explore Africa further with an invitation to join an expedition in Ethiopia, following, on foot the course of the mighty Omo River. How could I refuse?

Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa is a modern, all steel and glass structure that gives one a slightly surreal introduction to Ethiopia.

I was met at the airport by my hosts from the British Embassy and after loading my kit into the ubiquitous white Landcruiser, headed to the compound through the city. It was early evening and in the fading light we passed giant mosques, churches, markets and half-finished buildings.

Lined up in front of these structures were piles of rags, cardboard and trash. But wait. They were moving. They are people. These, I quickly came to learn are the living conditions for so many in Ethiopia, even, or more so in the capital. No jobs, no money, no shelter, no future. I had seen my share of poverty in Asia and South Africa but this was on a whole new level. Welcome to Africa.

On the other side of the city our car swung off the road to stop in front of a massive set of steel gates. A high concrete wall topped with barbedwire and guard towers led off in both directions. The gates swung open and we roared in. The local guards saluting us as we did. I had entered a different world, as though someone had transplanted a quaint slice of England into the harsh East African bush. A swimming pool, golf course, riding stables and bar were just some of the facilities at my disposal.

Unfortunately, I had no time to sample the delights, as we began final packing in order to head to the south of the country the next morning.

Overnight, our team of four had inexplicably be reduced to just two, myself and a young diplomat, Holly. It was a short flight in a surprisingly well-maintained prop-driven aeroplane to the town of Jinka. Our landing strip, a field used for cattle grazing. Kids and adults alike surrounded us on arrival, clamoring to carry our bags or assist in some way. Our first task was to find transport to our departure point deep in the Mago National Park. Even this proved to be a difficult and expensive labour.

Finally after much negotiation we were off on a 5 hour bone jarring drive.

In the town the kids had told us not to go to the Omo River. They told us the tribes there, the Mursi and others would gouge our eyes out and kill us. Somewhat disconcerting.

At the park headquarters we made camp by a small stream, rechecked gear and maps. The authorities forbade us to move around the park without armed scouts, to protect us from the animals and tribes.

Fair enough, however finding someone who would accompany us was a different story. The toughest scout in the region was brought before us.

Holly, speaking Amharic, outlined our plans via the map. He refused. No amount of money could convince him to join us. Too difficult he said. Too dangerous. We spent the next two days talking with other scouts. The same reply. No. Holly was keen to disappear into the bush alone, forget

the guards. I did not think that was a great idea, but Holly had been living and working in Ethiopia for almost 3 years, spoke the language fluently and had completed many forays into the wilds of different parts of the country. Fortunately, my pride was saved, when two scouts indicated their interest in joining us. Haile was an old, grizzled, tough as nails bloke with a bolt-action rifle at least as old as he was. Caro was just 24 and with a Russian AK-47 assault rifle he treasured. Whether either of the weapons had a full consignment of bullets was another thing. A deal was struck, a contract signed in front of the park boss and early the next morning we set off. Holly and I with packs weighing in excess of 35kg, Haile and Caro with a rifle each and a small knapsack between them. We hoped they had brought their own food as they had promised to.

The first days of walking were relatively straight forward. We would cross open grassy plains during the daylight hours and at dusk return close to the river to refill our water bladders and bottles. It was refreshing and revitalising to sit in the water of a small stream and filter the brown water. A small crocodile upstream took little notice of me. The reverse not so true.

As we followed the Neri River, a small tributary of the Omo the terrain began to change. Our days in open grassland were numbered. Now, open plains were replaced with 10 metre tall, near impenetrable hedges.

The only way through by machete. A slow and draining process. As the river grew in size the closer it travelled to the much larger Omo, so correspondingly did the thickness and amount of vegetation.

As the sun set, our usual path to the river was blocked a few hundred metres from its banks. Again, the only way through was via a path chopped with great effort through the strangling vines and razor sharp thorns. The next morning, with water replenished we struck out. The sun and heat were fierce. By mid-afternoon our water was finished and no re-supply seemed possible. For some inexplicable reason Caro, had disappeared. To where, we did not know. That evening we made camp in a clearing. No water with which to cook and nothing with which to slake our thirst. In the day’s dying light it became a little cooler. The roar of a lion sounded close by. A low, guttaral sound that was chilling to the bone. In the middle of the night, sniffing and cackling around the tent indicated the presence of hyena. All those horror stories of these scavengers bursting into a tent of tearing the face off of an unsuspecting human came flooding back. A night of staring at the walls, knife in hand, willing the morning to arrive. At first light, we broke camp and set off to find water. By some miracle, Haile found a massive, rain filled puddle of cool, clear water. We pumped the water into bottles and bags, relieved at having been saved from another calamity.

After a number of days, still with no sign of Caro, according to our maps we were close to reaching the Omo river. As our small group approached its banks Haile told us to wait in the cover of the trees whilst he went forward. After shouting into what seemed like the emptiness

Haile was an old, grizzled, tough as nails bloke with a bolt-action rifle at least as old as he was.

Caro was just 24 and with a Russian AK-47 assault rifle he treasured.

Whether either of the weapons had a full consignment of bullets was another thing...

RIGHT: Holly crossing the Omo River, keeping a sharp eye out for crocs and hippos

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TOP: Guns are everywhere in the Omo Valley. Bullets less so. Our 2 scouts and a local tribesman. BOTTOM L TO R: For 15 US dollars we bought and feasted on the scrawniest goat in the region; A new Mursi village where we spent our final evening in the bush; Giving the water filter a hard workout in a tributary of the Omo. Behind me sat a small crocodile. of the jungle on the far side, he received a response. A lone figure appeared. A man, wearing a colourful skirt and carrying the standard AK47. We watched him go to the water, retrieve a dugout canoe from a small inlet and slowly pole his way across. A friendly chap with a big smile, he would take us across to the other side. I would go first. The canoe was narrow. With my pack in the bow I tried to fit myself in. It was like trying to squeeze myself into the cockpit of a Formula 1 race car.

Precariously balanced we pushed off. Only half way across did I spot the tens of crocodiles lining the banks and semi-submerged in the river. The Omo River at this point is wide, brown, high and flowing fast like a freight train. An awesome sight to behold.

With all of us safely across we rested in the shade of the trees chatting with our boatman. Within minutes, as though someone had been on their mobile phone, a dozen naked tribesmen emerged from the thick forest. All armed with rifles of varying age and power. An imposing lot but their wide smiles offset any alarm we felt. Friendly and interested in just what these strangers were up to. All of a sudden there was a shout from the far side of the river from whence we came. It was Caro!

The boatman fetched him with ease and practiced speed. With little explanation of why he had abandoned us, Caro told how he had spent the last few days with a village of his own people somewhere downstream.

After a short rest we trekked once more into the forest and began tracing the flow of the Omo as best we could.

A week of travel saw us negotiating much more dense jungle than before. No longer dry and dusty but hot and humid forest. Occasionally we would come across a village or collection of huts. The curiosity of the locals evident in their questioning of our scouts and wonder in their eyes. It is likely that many of them had never seen a westerner or left

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the region where they were to spend their entire lives. Our location one evening after a day of hard slog coincided with the largest village we had so far encountered. A collection of perhaps 10 huts surrounded by a wall of felled trees and branches as protection against the hunters of the bush. Villagers moved about, collecting water from the river a few hundred metres away. Young children drove cattle and goats into the safe confines of the village perimeter for the night. A short chat with the village head and we had our tent up and fire going close to his dwelling.

Within a short time Holly was requested to follow a woman to a hut close by. Inside she was presented with a very sick child. Quite possible suffering from Malaria, common in the region. Mosquitoes were in abundance even far from the river. We had a small first aid kit, stocked even with anti-malaria tablets. But we had neither the expertise or the inclination to medicate the child with the them. It was clear he was very far gone. The prophalactic medicine would have done nothing and at worst coincided with the child’s death. An event that would cast us in a very poor light. It was difficult to listen to the young person suffer but there was little we could do.

In an effort to bolster our food intake beyond the rice and sparse vegetables we had been subsisting on, it was decided to buy a goat.

After much haggling, for 15 US dollars we gained ownership of possibly the oldest and scrawniest goat in the village. Caro and Haile slaughtered and dressed the animal for cooking over the fire.

Night in the African bush is black. Pitch black. No light from street lights, buildings, just nothing. A fire burned outside a couple of huts but no more. Step away from the village and the darkness is absolute.

As Hol stood at the gates she could here singing. I joined her and we stumbled our way towards the river towards the noise. Seemingly in the

middle of nowhere and with no light source of any kind, half the village had congregated to sing and dance. A scene that will remain with me for the rest of my life. So happy, so relaxed and so many smiles in an act of pure simplicity. Taking a photo would have ruined the whole atmosphere so I just stood there and took it all in. That was until they grabbed me and forced me to join in! Remember your drunk uncle at Christmas? Same sort of look.

Leaving the village we gained one of their number who had decided he knew a shorter route over a mountain range that would have us avoid following a section of the river that snaked back and forth on it self in the south of the country. Our breakfast supplemented with wild honey and strips of goat in the cooking pots attached to our packs off we went.

Soon at the base of the mountains, Caro offered as he did every day to carry our 2 cooking pots. Finally, on this day I relented. The way up the side of the mountain was taxing. As rain started to fall higher up, the muddy ground turned treacherous. Water collected into small streams and made negotiating the way through the trees and vines difficult. It was refreshing to stop under a tree with giant umbrella-like leaves and shake the water from it. Despite the clouds and drizzle it was humid, sapping the strength out of us.

With our back-breaking loads, we were making slow but steady progress. Too slow it seems for Caro and our Mursi tribesman friend. They took off at a trot heading to the pass. By the time we reached a path through the high peaks on either side, the two of them were nowhere to be seen. With multiple rough tracks, some made by humans, some by animals it was unclear exactly where they had gone. We waited for a time and shouted for them. The Mursi had led us here as a shortcut and now he was gone. Haile, our older scout did not know this area at all. We were in a bind. We knew roughly where we were on the map but looking out across

a plain of dense jungle below it did us little good. To compound matters it dawned on me that Caro had our only pots for cooking! Not good. We have enough pasta, rice, onions and potatoes but absolutely nothing to cook them with. Nothing to boil water. Nothing. With this in mind we trudged down the slope into the scrubland below.

Knowing where you are and where you want to get to is one thing. It is the ground in between that counts. For literally days we spent 12 hours on on our knees crawling through mud and tangled brush. At night we were so spent that we had not the energy to clear an area to make camp. Instead, the tent was erected on buffalo trails with a few cut branches as a shield.

If the beasts came crashing down the path we would be crushed where we lay. No time to think.

Once only, we emerged from the undergrowth to an open slope of a hill.

Dried by the searing heat, an abandoned village eerie in it’s isolation. A young boy herding cattle ran at the site of us. His cattle were on National Park land and he would have been terrified at the prospect of being caught.

We encountered a group of men with guns and machetes escaping the heat of the day under a woven shelter. They offered their drink of milk mixed with cattle blood, popular in this part of Ethiopia. Hol and I declined, but Haile gleefully accepted.

We re-entered the thick jungle. Mixing water with dry pasta and rice, eating berries off trees to gain sustenance. This was getting a touch serious. Twice we retraced our steps after meeting tangled vegetation that repelled even the most vicious of machete blows. It was frustrating to sat the least. At night Hol and I would pull a multitude of ticks from each others bodies and then lay in the sauna-like atmosphere of the tent. Outside, mosquitoes travelled in clouds of roaming gangs ready to impart their deadly load into the unwitting humans.

Several times we came close, a few kilometres, to the Omo, only to be

BELOW: Market day in the town of Jinka, our jumping off point to reach the Mago and Omo National Parks

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ABOVE L TO R: Finding a clear stream in the bush was rare but heaven to wash in and refill our water bottles; Discussing our plans to follow the Omo River with the park manager and scouts; Tough as nails, Haile, one of our scouts. His rifle was older than he was repelled. One midday we were finally allowed respite. Joining a small, dry tributary, clear enough to walk along, just, we emerged into a clearing with a crop of sorghum growing. A shout was heard. Following the creek bed we emerged to a cleared hill overlooking, what looked like to us, paradise.

It was the Omo River. At last. A single hut sat beside the field of grain.

An old woman and two girls emerged. We were in a state and I think they may have recognised this. Taking a wooden bowl of grain heated over the fire they fed us. It was scalding hot. Helpfully, the old lady spat on the food in order to cool it down.

The young girls were most interested in Holly. They enquired as to if she was male or female and why she was wearing a shirt. The novelty of her quick-dry trekking tops fascinated them and after trying them on would have been more than happy to keep them should they be gifted.

One of the girls carried a slingshot whose chief use quickly became clear.

Baboons were making raids into their crops. With a high pitched yelp the girl slung rocks with such accuracy and force into the field. I knew that if she so desired she could drop a man from fifty metres with the weapon.

The baboons, if hit, would just scatter to regroup close by.

A youth joined our small gathering and took us to the village. The state of the huts suggested it was very new. Our relief at having made it at least back to the main waterway was immense. We knew exactly where we were and where we had to go. In the night Haile warned that we should be careful of our belongings. These people, he said, are thieves.

Not sure precisely why he would think this we heeded his warning.

Regardless, my very nifty Nalgene bottle was not to be found upon waking.

Oh well. It would make an excellent water storage container for someone who would value it far more than I. Still without Caro and our Mursi friend, a small and frail village person offered to show us the best path beside the Omo. He was quite obviously

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not the alpha male of the village but knew an opportunity when he saw one. The local gang of toughs had other ideas. They wanted to lead us and despite his and Haile’s protests they did just that. For kilometres they argued and threatened Haile with machetes and guns. While no violence was directed at us, it was an adrenalin-inducing time. We were many days walk from any form of structured government or law and order. These hot heads did not look like they would have many qualms about robbing us or worse. Punishment by a court of law is not even in their world. Their lives are punctuated by attacks on their own villages and cross river raids for cattle, women and children. What concern would they have for the consequences of something as simple as theft with a little violence thrown in? I was afraid, very little.

We walked long days, most often high above the river. A winding track exposed to sheer cliff faces that would leave rocks tumbling down into the water below as we passed by. Despite still not having the cooking pots or any means to boil water we at least would not starve. The last village had given us a couple of kilograms of a doughy mix made from their grain crop. It was like play dough. Terrible on it’s own, it actually became quite palatable with a liberal dousing of sugar, of which we had plenty.

Our self-appointed guides came and went as they pleased, sometimes walking with us all smiles and laughing. Other times still raising their sharp knives menacingly above their heads. It was very difficult to read their intentions.

One afternoon as the sun had just begun to make it’s final salute to the day we topped a rise. In the distance I saw a collection of buildings.

More than woven grass and branches, they looked solid, of mud or brick. Different colours could be seen. A flash of white here and there.

After being in the bush for weeks they seemed out of place. Could they be vehicles? Coming near, my hopes were answered. Two shiny,

new Landcruiser 4WDs, so common throughout Africa. Not owned by the citizens of course, but by government and aid agencies. A group of men, some clothed in ragged Michael Jordan or Hulk Hogan t-shirts hung about the complex beside the river. The owners of the cars were not there. This location was a crossing point to the park which began on the far river bank.

Until they returned there would be no escape from our trials. Like a wish had been granted, within an hour of our arrival a canoe with a small outboard began motoring across the river. Who was onboard, we did not know. As the occupants clambered up the steep, muddy bank we spotted our missing scout, Caro and the Mursi tribesman. Caro looked worse for wear and was overjoyed to see us alive. He had been searching for us for days and it looked like it. His clothes in an even worse state than when we had met him which is saying something.

The owner of one of the vehicles was an affable chap who worked for the Forestry Commission. He was working in the area, had stumbled across our lost scout and had even heard about us over his 2-way radio. It would seem someone was missing us. He offered to give us a lift back to Jinka, the small town from where we had begun this adventure. We accepted with expected haste. Our departure was hurried and confused. Having paid the single guide who we had initially contracted in the village prior, the gang of men who followed became agitated. Where was their money? I told them in my best English, of which they spoke none to go and get stuffed. A strange thing to do when thier machete waving and posturing with guns was at its peak! Packs in the truck, bodies in the truck and off we roared. The bouncing and jarring of the vehicle like heaven for our souls.

It had been a difficult journey into a harsh and unpredictable region of Ethiopia. An adventure that we would not soon forget. Cold windy nights with hyenas and lions literally at the tent door, elephants and buffalo on the move.

Melting hot days of dust, swamps and thorns. Heat exhaustion, thirst, hunger.

Intimidation via machete and AK47. Smiling, dancing, friendly people. A true expedition and wondrous exploration.

Southern Ethiopia is a wild and beautiful place. An area where opposing tribes continue to raid each other’s villages and steal cattle, women and children. Where the power of the gun, machete and spear rules supreme.

Where malnutrition, starvation and illness is commonplace. In spite of this the people who inhabit these lands are still wonderfully happy, generous and optimistic. The natural environment is still for the most part untouched by development in any form. It is this that makes the region such an amazing place to explore.

In January 2007 I travelled to Ethiopia to follow part of the Omo River in Southern Ethiopia. This month long expedition took us first to the base of Mount Mago close to the Neri River which feeds into the Omo. We would follow the Neri River to where it joined the Omo, following this mighty river east and then north as far as we could manage.

From the outset it was clear we were in for a battle. Approach to small tributaries was met with hundreds of metres of 10-foot walls of thorn bush, all but inpenetrable. Approach to the Omo multiplied this to more than a kilometre. A change in route at the insistence of a new tribesmen friend meant losing one scout and all our cooking pots. The remainder of the journey saw us on dry rice, salt, sugar and the generosity of the few villages we encountered.

Cold windy nights with hyenas and lions literally at the tent door, elephants and buffalo on the move. Melting hot days of dust, swamps and thorns. Heat exhaustion, thirst, hunger. Lost far from the river. Intimidation via machete and AK47. Smiling, dancing, friendly people. A true expedition and wondrous exploration.

Southern Ethiopia is a wild and beautiful place. An area where opposing tribes continue to raid each other’s villages and steal cattle, women and children. Where the power of the gun, machete and spear rules supreme.

Where malnutrition, starvation and illness is commonplace. In spite of this the people who inhabit these lands are still wonderfully happy, generous and optimistic. The natural environment is still for the most part untouched by development in any form. It is this that makes the region such an amazing place to explore. n Mark would like to thank to Suunto, Rab, Sony and Zeal Optics.

The natural environment is still for the most part untouched by development in any form.

It is this that makes the region such an amazing place to explore...

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backyard adventure STORY Dave Kalama IMAGES Bob Bangerter

Remember being a kid and pretending you were a treasure hunter and your back yard was an exotic jungle that you explored like Indiana Jones?

Some of the best discoveries I ever made were in the backyard....

For example, if you held a magnifying glass in one place you could start a blade of grass on fire, or that ants work together to carry a morsel of food too heavy for just one. What treasures the backyard can hold. An adventure we took the other day reminded me of just such an expedition.

Robby, myself, Kai and Michi, unfortunately, had just cancelled a trip to Namotu, Fiji due to extremely bad weather. Frustrated by that and being in the mood for some type of adventure, we headed, literally, into our backyard. Orchestrated by Martin Lenny (Kai’s Dad), Don Shear (THE heli-pilot ) and Bob the

photographer. Contrary to just walking out the back door into the yard, this adventure was going to take a little (and by a little I mean a lot) more planning. By the time it was said and done Martin would have driven nearly a hundred miles for a 15-mile paddle. The helicopter was in the air for two hours and Bob fired off around 500 photos.

But first we had to find the back door to this backyard. Martin volunteered to drive. I seriously doubt he knew what he was getting into. I was the last stop on the way. When they arrived I didn’t realize how much support we were going to have, besides

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the four of us we had Paula (Kai’s Mom), Julia (Michi’s wife) and Ridge, Kai’s younger brother and replacement should Kai slip up at all. I promise this may be the first time you hear of Ridge but it won’t be the last, but that’s a future story all in its own. Once my stuff was loaded and we were on the highway, for some reason I started to think up excuses of why we shouldn’t go. For example, “It’s cloudy, we won’t get good shots… I’m tired from surfing this morning… the wind doesn’t seem strong enough… whine, whine, whine, here comes the whambulance.” Thank God nobody decided to listen to me.

After about a half hour drive out into ‘no mans land’ it was time to find a way into the water. This is where the real adventure started. There are no beaches in this area, only lava, cliffs and dirt roads that resemble cattle trails down to the water. Our first couple attempts didn’t quite have a high enough success to failure rate, meaning somebody was going to get hurt. So, we drove a few more minutes and found a place that looked easy enough to access. What we didn’t account for was how hard the wind and cliffs would make getting the boards down to the water. Thank goodness we had all that support, every single hand came in very useful.

For a moment there I felt like a sherpa chain ganging the supplies down the cliff side. Luckily, we had a few stickers to cover up all the little nicks n’ dings we incurred while working our way down.

Once we all made it down and stored our music and drinks, it was time to launch. I must admit that everyone else’s entries were quite smooth but for some reason mine looked more like a turtle jumping from a small cliff. None the less, I made it. Now I just needed to attach my leash and be off. Lucky I’m fast, because when I finally looked up I had some ground to make up.

The first hour and a half was pretty uneventful, mostly just looking into the deep blue and hoping not to see any shadows swimming beneath us. We made the best of the 15 knots of side onshore we had to work with. Noticing how much trash was floating in the water got me contemplating where it came from, where it would end up and who would clean it up. We all pretty much agree that we need to do something, so it seems time to start “doing” and less “agreeing”. All you need to do is pick up just one thing and throw it in the trash every time you go to the beach.

At about an hour and a half, all of a sudden I saw a splash and a fin out of the corner of my eye. Like most people, my heart jumped and I got a full dose of adrenalin. I turned to assess it and fortunately there was a dolphin doing a spinning jump out of the water, followed by a massive loosening of my sphincter muscle. Within a few minutes I was surrounded by at least 50 dolphins. At one point I was gliding with two riding on my left and two on my right on the same swell. It was truly magical to experience that, and literally in my own backyard, no more than fifteen miles as the crow flies, from my house. Maliko’s not even that close to me!

Everyone else witnessed this all unfold, so it’s not a typical fish story.

As soon as the dolphins subsided back to deeper waters, we saw a yellow speck in an oasis of coal black lava. It was the helicopter perched over a cliff awaiting our arrival. I have no idea how Don could have found a place flat enough to land on, because the lava was so jagged it looked like it might have flowed out the day before, but then again it is Don we’re talking about. Don could sling load an eight ball into the corner pocket

from 200 feet above, no exaggeration. The guy is absolutely unbelievable.

Don is the one in the yellow helicopter you always see in all the Peahi pictures, and usually lower than the surfer is.

As we approached the cliff, Don rose into the air and started to play tour guide. His familiarity with the area led us into the most incredible sea cliff and sea cave fantasia I’ve ever seen, one after the other, the next one out doing the previous. I must have said and heard “this is the most incredible thing I’ve ever seen” at least 20 times. Some of the caves felt like we were about to come upon Captain Jack Black and his gang of pirates in a hidden catacomb, counting there loot. I even started to hum, “Yo ho yo ho, a pirates life for me, AARRRRRR!” Just as we were about to drift away from the best part, Kai backed himself into a catcher’s mitt rock nook. No problem, except for the fact that it would take the incoming swell and blow it back out like a water grenade. Kai timed it just perfect, depending on your point of view.

Perfect if your trying to get yourself covered with the explosion, or just wrong if you’re at all concerned with safety. In either case, it was a spectacular moment. With that, it was time to process everything we’d just experienced.

While Kai, Robby and Michi took their time soaking it all in, I decide to put the pedal down a little and head for home. According to my calculations we only had, at the most, a couple of miles to go. It’s funny sometimes when unexpected things happen on an adventure, like the dolphins. I guess that’s the whole point of putting yourself out there, where the unexpected becomes the expected.

At this point in the adventure I was just sort of spacing out, listening to my music and trying to move along the best I could. Right about then I think Bob told Don to move in so he could get a shot. Now when you tell Don to move in you’d better be specific because he’ll move in till you’re inches from your target, and this time was no different. He got so close that the rotor wash from the blades began to blow me across the water. I didn’t dare look back to see how close he was for two reasons: 1) I didn’t want to fall, and 2) like I said earlier, Don could but an eight ball in the corner pocket from 200 feet, his skill is unreal. Within a few moments Don had the technique worked out and had me planing across the water for about a half-mile. After he pulled away, I think I fell because I was laughing so hard from what I had just experienced. It made me think my new goal is to down-wind a minor hurricane so all you have to do is steer, no paddling, no technique, just gliding. Now that would be a real downwinder. I could see him heading for the rest of the gang, little did they know what they were about to experience. Later, we all agreed that was one of the highlights of the entire adventure.

Once back on my board, I could see the cars parked off in the distance, marking the finish line for the day. Even though we were never very far from civilization, it sure felt like, for a short time, we were far from reality. Just like walking out the back door when you’re young and knowing Mom and Dad weren’t far, but for a little while you’re in your own little world. Discovering new planets, exploring new trails never before seen by humans or discovering gold treasure that today came in the form of cliffs, caves, dolphins and helicopters. Like walking back into the comfort and safety of home, our little backyard adventure was complete. n

Kai timed it just perfect, depending on your point of view. perfect if your trying to get yourself covered with the explosion, or just wrong if you’re at all concerned with safety.

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Kaup-LaPerouse Run, Dave kalama, Robby Naish, Kai Lenny, Michi Schweiger

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Adventure with an echo

Eco-tourism is going strong. Care is taken in the building of hotels as well as in catching the fish; if conscience demands it a few dollars can compensate for exhausts. story and photos Martin Edström

The resort Sani Lodge in Ecuador, however, takes environmental thinking one step further. The whole business is run by a village of indigenous Kichwa, and thanks to visiting tourists the forest can be saved.

The approach is most astounding of all. After flying out over Amazonia we switch the airline seats for wooden benches, and spend several hours on a small riverboat. Down we go, down the broad branch of the Rio Napo – the muddy headwaters flowing down from the Andes and into the Amazon River. For the last bit of the journey we need a smaller canoe, which winds it’s way up the narrow tributaries. Parrots fly through the trees hanging out overhead. After many twists and turns we emerge into a clearing, and the motor is turned off. Silence. The sound of a paddle is all that’s audible, as we slowly glide across the surface towards Sani Lodge.

Canoes lie parked at the wharf, huts are visible through the trees - and even as the mist rises, a sense of adventure lies thick in the air.

As we unload our gear and carry it up the wooden jetty, a couple of guests come running. They dissappear behind some trees, shouting ”Here! Come look!”. A young guide, Javier, points at a swampy patch of grass; a large caiman lizard is waddling through the grounds. Two guests from Switzerland stand fascinated, taking photographs, while an older man from France brags about having seen quite a few himself - on his bungalow porch. We have truly arrived in the middle of the jungle, in pure wilderness. Leaf-carrying ants are everywhere, crawling over our cases.

With firm strides a man approaches, laughing at the commotion, and gives us a warm welcome. His name is Patricio, and he is the leader of the Sani Isla community - the community running the show at Sani Lodge.

Immediately taking action, he speeds off to show us the grounds, and we hurry along. He proves a treasure trove of knowledge. Management skills and eye for wildlife aside, he has yet another quality – quite an unexpected one. He’s a shaman. Inheriting these inner powers from

his father (who got it from his father), Patricio has studied the ways of rainforest medicine since he was a boy. ”This cures impotence” he says about a fruit found along the track.

He’s taken us for a brisk trek through the jungle – his feet knowing the way leaving us behind, panting. The trail is lined with plants that have been traditionally used for centuries upon centuries. Antidotes, fertility enhancers and poisons all look alike to us – but we do recognize the occasional banana. Monkeys, butterflies, frogs – nothing stays hidden as Patricio wanders on, poiting everything out. Anacondas can be found in the area, he tells, and makes a big circle with his arms. ”The biggest anaconda I’ve ever seen, I couldn’t even grasp with my arms.” He tells further stories of another anaconda, famous for having swallowed a petroleum worker whole. Apparently, that anaconda was from this particular area. We laugh, but Patricio doesn’t. And suddenly we feel small, carefully eyeing the path ahead of us.

Our hike with Patricio takes us to the largest tree in the woods, whose base is enormous. Up against the tree a huge metal staircase has just been mounted, and after ascending we climb out onto it’s crown – 130 feet above ground. The huge tree is one of the largest in the area, and we are high above the canopy. All around us, all the way to the horizon in every direction, we look down onto primary rainforest. It’s a truly breathtaking sight, and proves that the wilderness of Amazonia still exists; these trees have never been touched, and hopefully never will be.

Patricio squints at the setting sun, overlooking the forest he’s always lived and cared for. ”A lot have changed since I was a kid”, he says, referring to the time before the lodge. Until just a couple of decades ago his people, the Kichwas, lived very isolated. ”But now we’re not only a little village, we’re part of a larger scale. Our ancestors watched over this forest, and now it’s our turn to protect it ”. And with the business at the lodge, they do. Nowadays though, they protect it a little differently.

All around us, all the way to the horizon in every direction, we look down onto primary rainforest.

It’s a truly breathtaking sight, and proves that the wilderness of Amazonia still exists; these trees have never been touched, and hopefully never will be.

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Solar cells heat the water, food is ever ecologic. Potatoes are served with everything, a dozen different variteties – every single one from the surrounding region. Chicken comes from downriver, spices from out back.

Three times a day the chef chimes his bell for all the guests to gather; serving times are strict to save time and resources. The dining room is a central building – a huge hut resting on poles. Beautiful carvings decorate the interior, and dark wood stands out within this evergreen realm. The tables sport a relaxing view overlooking the lagoon, surpassed only by the view from the bar. Cosy spaces and a vivid athmospehere makes the perfect setting for the lodge, and you’re instantly cought within it’s rythm.

The lodge begun business on a small scale several years back, and now hosts up to 40 guests at any time. Lacking only a beach, Sani Lodge looks like an ordinary bungalow resort, except housing partly hidded in the bush. Everything’s a bit rough, but just as clean. Spacious rooms make for pleasurable rest, but the true quality lies in the outdoor ventures. Activities are always running – nights are spent nightwalking to see nocturnal wildlife as frogs, spiders and the typical caimans. Daytime treks go to the

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newly built tower, out on the main river and to several first-class birding spots; Sani Isla is a Mecca for ornithologists and amateur birdwatchers alike. Hoatzins and parrots are constantly sitting among the straws on the dining-hut roof, and several species are only found here. As sun sets guests can take a swim in the lagoon, which is appreciated after a day spent in boots.

As we get back from the lookout tower, we hear another canoe coming in. The sun is setting, red behind the curtain of thick forest. As we’re spot on the equator, night falls fast. Cicadas hit the strings, and the evening air vibrates from the sounds of the wild. It turns out to be the young guide Javier paddling the canoe, returning with a group of guests from a birding session. Both the Swiss and the English sound pleased, and thank him wholeheartedly. ”No problems, you know” Javier says, laughing his words with an american accent. Thanks to the work at the lodge, he’s been able to study biology and ecology in the US. Returning home to work as a guide, he’s become a favored part of the team; today Javier is Chief Guide at the lodge. ”I’ve lived in the rainforest all my life, you know” he tells as we talk.

”I love showing it to the people who come here”.

Tourism funding Conservation is a slogan used by many ecodestinations. Sani Lodge is one of very few that actually accomplish all that this stands for. ”The best part is that we won’t need other work in the future”, Patricio says about the transformation that’s going on for the people of the Sani Isla community. ”Before we had only coffee, cacao and woodwork for our income, but now we have the lodge”. And this is the very core of their environmental work. For decades the people of Sani Isla had to cut and burn the rainforest to clear space for farming; this being the case for most indigenous people living in the Amazon area. Thanks to the income from the lodge, they can keep the forest. Keep it, and show off with it. Because they are indeed living in the middle of a resource – one people pay to come see. ”The more tourists we get, the better – and we’ve already grown so much in a few years”, Patricio tells. The Kichwas of Sani Isla have thereby established an important destination on the eco-map, without profiting anyone but themselves.

Leaving Sani Lodge is about as wonderful as arriving, as the canoe is poled out into the tributary. Sani Lodge is definitively among the best, with a system favouring not only the forest but the people living in it. Yet, there you are – in a canoe, speeding for the airport. In the middle of nowhere, half-way around the world. Your thoughts reach out as always; wouldn’t it be better for the environment, to just stay home? Probably. But if you can’t, this is where to go. n

GETTING HERE//Flight to Quito, then to Coca (Fransisco de Orellana).

From Coca boat to Sani Lodge (included with your stay). Trips are best arranged by the lodge, since they can coordinate flights and boat-transportation.

ACCOMODATION//Many alternatives; your own bungalow or a room in one of the huts. Everything is spartan, but clean and safe. Doubles go for $150/night – with absolutely everything included. Camping is a possibility, for about $100/night, with the same range of facilities available. All the prices include 3 meals a day, and all the guided tour you want. Rubber boots and misc. equipment is also available.

Transfer by boat (roundtrip) to Coca is also included in the price.

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN//The trip may be long, but the lodge is well equipped for travelling with children. Guided tours can also be adapted. Important to remember is to carefully protect children from mosquitoes and other bugs; full-cover clothing and bug repellent is a must!

BRING//Boots or rubber boots. Also available to borrow at the lodge.

Bug- and mosquito protection. Fully covering clothing, including a hat.

Binoculars. Every last piece of bathroom necessities – nearest drugstore is far away. www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 53

feature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature

Work to live?

Live to work...

Adventure Education Guide

“Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore.” --Andre Gide 1947 nobel prize for literature From the day we are born life is full of challenges, new oceans to venture out into, new storms to face and new horizons to head towards.

For those entering tertiary education the prospect of leaving friendly shores for the oceans of adulthood can be quite daunting. Often leaving the security of family, friends and that which is familiar, tertiary education can be overwhelming.

However, adventure education, although seemingly more ‘adventurous’, is often less perilous. For those that seek this lifestyle choice they do so with camaraderie and a sense of purpose rarely found in other forms of education.

Outdoor adventure careers open up a vast and wide ocean of experiences. Gone are the narrow corridors that adventure education offered and the limited opportunities that were available. Now the opportunities are as limitless as the courses and the prospects as expansive as the horizon itself.

The follow pages outline just a slither of what is available – check out our education guide on the website www.adventuremagazine.co.nz

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz Go online to find other Education providers; while you’re there, browse our giveaways and gear guide, exciting news and much more.

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Every time someone heads off into the hills, takes to the tracks, slopes, skies or waters both in New Zealand and overseas there is a chance of something going wrong. Increasing numbers of doctors, nurses and other medics are combining their love of the outdoors with their profession. University of Otago, Wellington has run a Wilderness Medicine course as part of their Postgraduate Diploma in Travel Medicine for eight years to train medics in the principles of Wilderness Medicine. Topics of the course include; Extremes of heat and cold, The high altitude environment, The water, underwater and subterranean environments, Wilderness injuries and trauma, Wilderness medical care and emergencies, Special populations in the wilderness, Plant and animal related injuries and Expedition medicine. Students soon learn that a return to basic medical skills (good history taking, thorough physical examination) adaptability and improvisation are the cornerstones of being a successful Wilderness Medic. While we cannot (nor should we want to) sanitise our outdoor experiences, these professionals might mitigate some of the risk associated with outdoor adventure.

For more information contact Johanna Meaclem at: Tel 04 385 5995 Johanna.meaclem@otago.ac.nz

Looking for Adventure?

Make the wilderness of the diverse Top of the South your classroom; from Kahurangi National Park to the Marlborough Sounds, the Abel Tasman to Golden Bay, the wild West Coast to Nelson Lakes.

Diploma in Adventure Tourism

STArTS: February 2011, Nelson campus

>> Apply now for 2011

Can you see yourself guiding visitors in adventure activities in New Zealand’s beautiful wilderness areas? With this programme you’ll work closely with adventure tourism operators to enable you to become a guide in the adventure tourism industry.

There are one, two or three year study options to choose from.

Graduates from the first year will be able to work in a supporting role in an adventure operation. Graduating from the second year you will have the skills of a junior guide and from the third year you will have completed industry tickets in the skill area of their choice such as rafting or sea kayaking. Part time study options are also available.

Our programmes are developed in response to industry needs and our tutors’ personal experience as adventure tourism guides, operations managers and company owners.

Living a vibrant, relaxed lifestyle in Nelson is the icing on the cake – beaches bordering the city, three national parks and the highest sunshine hours in New Zealand make this region one of the country’s most popular adventure tourism destinations.

Students from all around the world come to study adventure tourism at NMIT. You’ll make friends with people from many different backgrounds and nationalities.

See www.nmit.ac.nz

Search keywords: ‘Adventure Tourism’

Ph: 0800 4 CAREER (0800 422 733) Email: info@nmit.ac.nz Web: www.nmit.ac.nz

or call 0800 422 733 for more information

You can also check out us out on

Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology

and

- search for ‘NMIT’

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 55

educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature education

That you can’t have an adventure without an element of risk.

Aoraki Polytechnic outdoor education tutor Ian Logie has achieved the top New Zealand distinction in his field by being awarded the Outdoor Instructor of the Year Award.

The programme co-ordinator of the polytechnic’s Outdoor Education programme, Mr Logie was presented with the Tall Totara Award at an Outdoors New Zealand Forum in Wellington.

He was chosen by the executive of the New Zealand Outdoors Instructors Association (NZOIA) from the best instructors nominated by industry members nation-wide.

Mr Logie has been a member of NZOIA for almost 15 years and served on the executive committee. He is also one of their most experienced kayak assessors and trainers in New Zealand.

“While it certainly is nice to be honoured with this award, the real pinnacle of achievement for me is seeing our students do well in national qualifications,” Mr Logie said.

He said Aoraki’s outdoor education programmes produced great outdoor instructors who could work at, say, Outward Bound, other outdoor centres, or by leading groups in the adventure activities.

Outdoor Edication plays a significant role in the development of New Zealand’s young people, as well as providing many great career opportunities for Aoraki Polytechnic graduates.

So what are you waiting for? Discover what you are really capable of on our Classic course. Through 21 action packed days including kayaking, sailing and tramping – you and your Values will be challenged. Our courses run monthly but fill fast, so stop wondering and take action!

For more info visit www.outwardbound.co.nz

New Zealand

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 57

educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature educationfeature education

Timaru outdoor education instructor tops the country

fathers day wish list Are you stuck for ideas on what to buy your Dad for Father’s Day? Well now here’s your chance – GO ONLINE to WWW.ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ and CLICK & WIN on all these products (excluding the Timex watch).

It’s really simple...From the homepage, open our Father’s Day Buyer Guide, Click on an item you really want, then enter your name and contact details on the entry form. Do this once for all your favourite items and you are in the draw to win! Good luck!

Win a gift for Dad! Just...

Click&Win

Kiwi Adventure//Mosca Fly $79.99

Versatile, easy-to-pitch, six point winged fly to shelter the minimalist tramper. 4000mm water rated, ripstop polyester fabric with seam sealing and UV Shield protection. Size: 250cm x 230cm Weight: 750g. Poles not included. www.kiwiadventuregear.co.nz

Leatherman//Style CS $64.95-$69.95

NEW innovative keyring multi tool, proof that attractive and clever aren’t mutually exclusive. Contains eight essential tools in a lightweight, compact design. 25 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz

58//WHERE

maptoaster topo/nz //from $119.00

Whether you are a recreational or business user, MapToaster Topo/NZ will provide the topographical maps you need on your computer. Includes Topo50 and Topo250 NZTM maps. www.maptoaster.com | support@maptoaster.com

AHNU//reyes $199.00

Rugged closed toe sandal featuring a quick-drying mesh upper, shock dispersal plate in forefoot for stone bruising protection and non-marking slip-resistant lugs, perfect for amphibious terrain. www.allsports.co.nz

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#160

Sharkskin//Climate control shortsleeve top $269.00 Sharkskin 100% windproof so you can enjoy your

watersports year round in any weather. If you are getting cold in a “wind proof” garment, then you are not wearing Sharkskin. www.sharkskin.co.nz 09 415 8350

SteriPEN//Traveler Mini $189.95

New from SteriPEN, the Traveller Mini is one of three new models released by SteriPEN this July. It weighs in at just 103gm but will delivery up to 3000 litres of purified water, that’s 2 litres of purified water every day for over 10 years. Ideal for travelling or outdoors. Available from leading outdoor retailers and travel medical specialists.

KEEN//Kanyon $189.99

The Kanyon offers KEEN protection and all-conditions performance in a summer style that’s great value. Webbing upper is lined for quick-dry comfort next to skin, and features aegis microbe shield.Easy-to-adjust bungee lacing. Non marking rubber outsole. www.keenfootwear.co.nz

soul trampers// PotPal $26.95-$38.95

NEW lightweight, multipurpose cooking pot storage bag that protects, dries, stores, separates utensils and converts to handy heat mitt. Simplifying cooking in the great outdoors! www.soultrampers.com | (61) 280033483

TIMEX T49760//WS4 Expedition $499.00 The unique

widescreen dashboard displays relevant outdoor information at a glance. Use the Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer to start exploring new terrain. 0508 566 300 | sales@gmbwatch.co.nz

MARMOT//Guides Down Vest $299.00

Simple, lightweight and compact, the Guides Down Vest is warm and versatile taking you from the mountain to the pub.

650 Fill Goose Down insulation and zippered handwarmer pockets. www.marmotnz.co.nz

LED Lenser//p7 $139 - $159

With 200 lumens of focusable light, the P7 outshines all other lights its size. Amazingly it provides up to 130 hours of light on just four AAA batteries.10 year warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz

SUPERFEET//green $49.95

Superfeet GREEN Premium Insoles provide maximum support and shock absorption, helping to align the body and improve posture, balance and strength.

Recommended for running, walking, hiking, alpine and industrial footwear. www.allsports.co.nz

Wenger//Camper 17 $79.95 - $89.95

Wenger is the maker of the Genuine Swiss Army Knife.

The Camper 17 contains 11 implements including patented self sharpening scissors that are virtually unbreakable. Lifetime Warranty. www.tightlines.co.nz

maptoaster topo/nz //map8-gps $225.90

Always know exactly where you are with MapToaster Mobile/NZ topo maps of New Zealand for your Garmin mapping GPS. www.maptoaster.com | support@maptoaster.com

2C Solar Light Cap//Solar Light Cap - Wearable light from the sun $59.90 The perfect gift - unique

and practical using advanced solar power eco-technology to provide over 5000 hours of light, whenever needed, without needing batteries. Brilliant New Zealand invention used for outdoors adventure. Built in SOS for safety, within a comfortable hat. www.2CLight.co.nz

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 59

//161 //new zealand/pro surfing/paige hareb

paige hareb INTERVIEW BY LYNNE DICKINSON IMAGES STEVE DICKINSON

For many adventurers, a day at the office means kayaking down some swollen river in the middle of nowhere, climbing a vertical rock face or mountain biking some remote trail. However,Taranaki born Paige Hareb’s lifestyle involves surfing some of the best waves the world has to offer.

Earlier this year, Paige Hareb was fortunate enough to get to play in her own back yard when the World Surfing Tour came to Taranaki, NZ. Adventure Magazine caught up with Paige while she was home.

You are quite a Taranaki patriot, what is it you love so much about Taranaki? Naki naki naki oi oi oi! haha I love it! I’m a sports freak and if you want to do any kind of sport in Taranaki it can usually be done. I guess I would call myself a bit of an adventurer. I love driving down the coast in the middle of the farms getting to waves.

I love going to our local mountain that is so close that I can surf and ski in the same day. There’s not many places in the world where you can do that! I live just out of the main city too so it’s perfect. If I want to be left alone I can stay at home or drive south into the whop-whops! Or if I want to shop and socialize, I drive 10mins North to New Plymouth city.

Having an event in your home town has both it’s pros and cons, how was it? I loved it! I’m so happy I got to have an event there so early in my career. I’m glad that the girls got to see where I come from and I think they really enjoyed it as well so I’m super proud.

The people in Taranaki have always been really supportive of me not only in surfing but in all the other sports I used to do as well.

I thought I was going to be really nervous for the event but I was more pumped up. I just wanted to show the Taranaki people that I could do well and I deserved to be there. It’s been my best result all year so let’s do Taranaki twice!

Can you explain the extra pressure of media commitments and how did that affect your performance/attitude etc? Yeah, there was a lot of media! I try not to get frustrated by it and just go with the flow but wow, that week was intense! It was more like two weeks with people ringing up and wanting stuff a week beforehand too.

You try to be nice and give everyone something but it was pretty exhausting. I said yes to everyone apart from one TV program who wanted to fly me up to Auckland for the night before the contest started. I’m already thinking about the event there next year and I think I will probably just try and do two press conferences. One leading up and one during otherwise it really does just get too much.

Your dad had a lot to do with getting the event off the ground – can you tell us a bit about that? Yeah my Dad is my number one fan for sure. The year that I was trying to qualify he was saying he wanted to do a WQS (world qualifying series) event but that same year I qualified for the ASP Womens’ World Tour so being the spoilt little brat I am I said why not do a WCT!! It was a rhetorical question. A whole lot of meetings, a few little arguments between my parents and a year a half later, I was surfing in the TSB Bank Taranaki WCT! There were a lot of people involved to get the thing over the line and I’m pretty sure it’s one of the really localized events where everyone in the community put something in to it. Again... a proud Taranaki girl.

What did the girls think of the waves, weather and people of NZ and Taranaki in particular? The waves could have been better, but I still think they are the best waves we have had on tour all year so far. I think they really enjoyed it. I know a lot of them went to check the mountain out, walking and by helicopter. I also heard a few of them say how friendly the people were here, as you saw some of the locals really took Carissa in and looked after her and in return Carissa donated her prize money to their surf club, you don’t see that everyday!

Carissa Moore’s prize money donation was quite something. Do you know what the Waitara Bar Boardriders are intending to do with the money? She obviously makes too much money, haha! That’s crazy at only 17 donating money to people you have known for only a week! It was very special, the local club was very happy and I think they are going to use it to buy new surfboards and wetsuits for the kids. That gesture really did top the week off for everyone.

The girls provided huge inspiration to the local surfers, how do you think women’s surfing is now seen in Taranaki and NZ in general as a result of this event? I heard so many non-surfers down there that had no idea about it before they went to this event and they absolutely loved it! It’s pretty cool to see and hear that from people. I think it has shown people and young girls in particular that it really is possible to get there. I was just a little girl like them.

I still am!

I guess I would call myself a bit of an adventurer. I love driving down the coast in the middle of the farms getting to waves. I love going to our local mountain that is so close that I can surf and ski in the same day. www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 61

e k i l t Jus e r ’ e w , e g i Pa m o r f e d a m t h g i r the stuf f.

We’re also both proudly New Zealand made.

Congratulations Paige on your fantastic placing in the TSB Bank Women’s Surf Festival in Taranaki.

LOVE THAT GIRL, LOVE THAT HUBBARDS!

J10359 energi

www.hubbards.co.nz

What was the highlight of the event for you? Seeing everyone buzzing on it. From the competitors to the security guards to the sponsors and families. Also sleeping in my own bed.

Many Kiwis have left NZ in an attempt to get more exposure, better competition and more consistent waves. What is it that makes you keep your home NZ? I think you have to make sure you are the best in NZ before you start looking overseas, you know, you can’t skip a step. I still had to fly over to Australia to do some competitions but that’s all you really get noticed at and only if you are winning. You don’t need to live there, the first thing sponsors look at is the results, they can see that from anywhere in the world. I’m definitely a family girl but I love getting away

from the whole surf scene too. You can get too much of it. I don’t want to burn out early so I’m aware of when I need to get away from it a bit, enjoy other things in life, not just surfing. I like my alone time and my family time.

You obviously have a huge amount of support in Taranaki – shout outs to anyone? TSB Bank, I’ve been with them since I was 14 so it’s pretty cool to have them sponsor my hometown event! Everyone in Taranaki, there’s too many people to name! But most of all my family and friends for always being there no matter what! I love you all! n

I think you have to make sure you are the best in NZ before you start looking overseas, you know, you can’t skip a step. www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 63

161 *all prices shown are RRP

gear guide 2010

teva//Omnium $199.90

teva//Dalea Mid Event W’s $339.90

teva//Woman’s Ventura Cork 2 Rialto $199.90

teva//Woman’s Tirra $169.90

teva//Itunda $239.90

teva//Terra Fi 3 $179.90

ahnu//Women’s kick $179.00

ahnu//Women’s Tilden II $199.00

ahnu//Women’s Trinity $189.00

With full foot protection, the Omnium provides excellent fit and comfort. Boasting a grippy Spider Rubber outsole and an extremely comfortable EVA midsole, the Omnium delivers.

(09) 373 1460 | www.teva.com

With its feminine straps and multiple adjustment options for a secure fit, you can tackle any obstacle in style. Designed specifically for a woman’s foot to provide unmatched comfort and performance in the water. (09) 373 1460 | www.teva.com

Multi use Mary-Jane offers breathability, cushioning, support and traction for taking on walking trails or shopping excursions. Lightweight compression moulded midsole for optimal shock absorption and all day comfort. www.allsports.co.nz

64//WHERE

The Dalea Mid eVent® was specifically designed to perfectly fit a woman’s foot. The Dalea Mid eVent® will ensure that your feet are always comfortable. Add in the eVent® waterproof membrane and Vibram® rubber outsole, and you have a light hiking shoe that is up to any challenge.

(09) 373 1460 | www.teva.com

Great on the trail, but made for the water, the Itunda features an injection molded EVA topsole/upper combination for seamless comfort. Throw in the updated Drain Frame™ technology and you’ve got a breathable shoe that can handle any river. (09) 373 1460 | www.teva.com

Lightweight versatile sandal, great for walking and water activities. Easy pull buckle system, slip resistant lugs to provide grip and traction, hydrophobic mesh upper with charred bamboo lining for natural wicking properties. www.allsports.co.nz

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#160

Building off of the extremely popular Ventura Cork 2 Collection, Teva added stylish leather uppers for an all-new sport sandal with a fashion-feel.

(09) 373 1460 | www.teva.com

The premier Terra Fi 3 features an external Shoc Pad™ surrounded by an all-new footbed for superior comfort, and a nylon shank for enhanced support to create the best allaround sports sandal on the market. Available in both men’s and woman’s styles. (09) 373 1460 | www.teva.com

Just the right balance for use on rugged terrains, kicking back camping or in water environments. Stretchable mesh upper with open design for comfort and breathability, easy to pull buckle for secure fit and reinforced toe cap for added protection. www.allsports.co.nz

161 KEEN//whisper $199.99

KEEN//waimea H2 $129.99

The Venice H2 sport sandal provides exceptional traction on mixed terrain; this performance sandal includes an open strapping system for outstanding ventilation. A streamlined, grippy outsole features multi-directional lugs with razor siping for exceptional traction control. www.keenfootwear.co.nz

The Whisper sandal from KEEN can manage any water-filled day. The quick draw elastic cord lacing system adjusts to a comfortable and secure fit. The washable polyester upper features the odour-reducing Aegis Microbe Shield®. The footcushioning EVA moulded footbed provides comfort on the go. www.keenfootwear.co.nz

The lightweight outsole provides the right amount of support and traction control. Patented toe protection lets you go from beach to rocky shore to the poolside with ease. The cushioned EVA footbed features odour-reducing Aegis Microbe Shield®. www.keenfootwear.co.nz

KEEN//st barts $149.99

The St Barts offers the convenience and protection of poly webbing sandal built with toe protection in a stylish profile.

Water friendly, features Aegis Microbe Shield®. treated lining.

EVA midsole and moulded rubber outsole for next to skin comfort and all day support. | www.keenfootwear.co.nz

KEEN//naples $219.99

KEEN//Katie Strap Sandal $199.99

KEEN//Katie flip $159.99

KEEN//zuma $89.99

A sandal that is carefully crafted, KEEN.Cush footbed durable stitch down construction around the entire sole, Keep your feet cool wherever your travels take you. www.keenfootwear.co.nz

Katie Flip dresses up traditional flip-flops with detailed leather straps and a supple leather lined KEEN.Cush footbed and durable stitch down construction around the entire sole. Full grain leather upper. | www.keenfootwear.co.nz

Beachy locals or city streets the Naples takes you there.

Natural latex and cork build a cushioning footbed that absorbs the shocks with every step. Full grain leather upper is strappy and fun for warm weather pursuits | www.keenfootwear.co.nz

Kids’s sturdy waterproof sandal, open toed design maximizes airflow and keeps tiny toes cool. Neoprene lining is kind to skin, tough rubber outsole protects feet, wherever they land.

Also available in pink. | www.keenfootwear.co.nz

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 65

gear guide 2010

KEEN//Venice H2 $219.99

The eco-friendly design features recycled aluminium eyelets which are a small step to a ‘greener’ planet and a natural canvas upper. The metatomical footbed moulds to your foot’s shape for personalised comfort with a laidback vibe. vegan (no animal by –products, water adhesives) www.keenfootwear.co.nz

*all prices shown are RRP

KEEN//Coronado $149.99

161 *all prices shown are RRP

gear guide 2010

Patagonia//Men’s Boaris $249.00

The trailworthy Boaris combines classic skate styling with a low-profile Vibram® outsole. Its full-grain leather upper with stainproof pigskin panels is incredibly abrasion-resistant and breathable. The wicking mesh lining and cork footbed control moisture and odor. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

merrell//Men’s Chameleon 3 Ventilator

Patagonia//Men’s Boaris Mid Waterproof $299.00

Durable and abrasion resistant waterproof full grain leather upper. Nylon injection molded arch shank provides support.

Patagonia Air Cushion Plus provides shock absorption. Low profile Vibram® outsole provides ultimate traction. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

merrell//Men’s Chameleon leather Mid

Patagonia//Woman’s Release $279.00

The Release trail-running shoe keeps your feet well-protected and comfortable on long-mileage runs. Dynamic Fit Lacing System provides a precise and secure fit. A 3DM triple-density midsole stabilizes and centers the foot. Vibram® TC5+ outsole. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

merrell//Woman’s Pandora Omni-Fit Waterproof

Gore-Tex $299.00 Thanks to a Gore-Tex waterproof breathable membrane, Merrell’s In-Board Compression Foot Frame and a Vibram® TC5+ outsole, this shoe combats even the wettest, most rugged day hikes out there. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

Waterproof $329.00 Totally waterproof construction utilizes a durable nubuck leather upper and protective molded rubber rand, paired with a proprietary TPU counter reinforcement and stability arm keep feet stable, dry and comfortable in the worst conditions. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

$279.00 Supportive and durable; Turn any trail into a walk in the park. The QForm® Comfort midsole provide women’s specific stride-sequenced cushioning, and the Omni-Fit™ Lacing provides a fit like it was built just for you. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

merrell//Men’s Col Mid Waterproof $379.00

merrell//Men’s Outbound Mid light Leather Gore-Tex $499.00 A waterproof full grain leather upper

merrell//Woman’s Outbound Mid Light Gore-Tex $449.00 The Cordura®/Ripstop mesh upper and GORE-TEX®

Light and sturdy, these boots offer support and comfort for extended treks under load. Mid-height uppers feature durable full-grain leather with protective rubber toe bumpers; Waterproof membranes supply protection from the elements and disperse moisture quickly. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

66//WHERE

unites with GORE-TEX® for this boot bound for mountain adventures. Our Spring Motion™ technology provides superb comfort, with a molded synthetic heel for stability, an anatomically accurate footbed, and a Merrell® air cushion. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#160

construction keeps all the elements at arm’s length, while our Spring Motion™ technology keeps you comfortable. Featuring a Vibram® outsole & Grade 3 Women’s Specific Nylon Insole for backpacking with a light pack. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

161 merrell//Woman’s Siren Sport $229.00

merrell//Men’s Intercept Ventilator $249.00

merrell//Men’s Refuge Pro $279.00

merrell//Men’s Chameleon 3 Maze $269.00

merrell//Men’s Chameleon 3 Axiom $289.00

merrell//Woman’s Chameleon ARC Pure $229.00

merrell//Woman’s Chameleon ARC wind $249.00

Designed with sprint-style flexibility, this rugged men’s outdoor shoe features a synthetic leather and breathable mesh upper with a mesh lining; An aggressively lugged, high-traction Vibram® Axis™ rubber sole reduces shock as it supplies traction. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

Nubuck leather, synthetic leather and mesh upper with a bellows tongue to keep out debris. Merrell Air Cushion in the heel absorbs shock and adds stability with an EVA Midsole for cushioning. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

Don’t let the beautiful exterior lead you astray — this is one technical sandal. The Injection-molded nylon arch shanks support and protect feet on uneven ground; Vibram® Siren Sandal™ outsoles are siped for enhanced traction in wet conditions. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

Built for some serious off-roading, but stylish enough to be worn around town. Featuring Split Technology that joins dual density EVA under the heel to absorb shock and discourage over-pronation while the Vibram® TC5+ Rubber provides superior traction and durability. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

For hot hiking conditions, the see-through mesh delivers essential protection, yet liberates your feet with ample ventilation. The QForm triple-density EVA midsole provides cushioning, support, and stride alignment. Vegan friendly. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

Its full grain leather upper and rubber bumpers at toe and heel are built for durability, with a Merrell® air cushion and womenspecific QForm® comfort midsole to smooth things out. The Vibram® outsole delivers vital traction. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

This mixed leather and mesh sandal keeps the air flowing, but is uncompromising in its technical prowess. Once locked in with the secure fit lacing system, the Maze’s stretch collar and In-Board footframe guarantee comfort. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

Ventilated mesh upper and lining keep the air flowing, while molded heel and toe bumper guards take the hits. Featuring a Merrell® air cushion midsole, anatomical footbed and Vibram® outsole. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 67

gear guide 2010

merrell//Woman’s Siren Ginger $219.00

Featuring a mesh upper, accented by leather and a microadjustable strap, allows you to step in and go. Ortholite® Footbed. Q-Form® Triple Density Compression Molded EVA Footbed. Merrell Air Cushion Midsole. Merrell Circuit™ Sole Sticky Rubber. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

*all prices shown are RRP

merrell//Circuit MJ Breeze $199.00

161 *all prices shown are RRP

gear guide 2010

salewa//Mountain Trainer Mid GTX $449.00

salewa//Womens Mountain Trainer Light $249.00

salewa//Fire Tail $249.00

salewa//Mens Mountain Trainer Light $249.00

ahnu//Moraga Mesh $199.00

The North Face//Mens Single-Track $279.00

SCARPA //Women’s ZG65 GTX $399.00

SCARPA //Kailash GTX $499.00

TEVA//Riva Leather Mid eVent $379.90

A perfect all rounder with its technical Vibram Mulaz sole, GORE-TEX Lining, Climbing lacing, suede upper, mid stiff nylon insole and sticky 360 rubber rand. Men’s and women’s, Colours Charcoal/Limeade, Laguna /Waterfall Weight M 610g W 520g sales@bobo.co.nz

An extremely light weight approach shoe. Breathable waxed Cordura with mesh lining, sticky 360 rubber rand , Salewa extreme outsole. The perfect weapon for technical approach and difficult terrain. Men’s Colours Black/yellow Weight M 470g | sales@bobo.co.nz

Comfortable, easy to wear hiking boot. Gore-Tex® lining assures you of the best in breathability and waterproofness.

Hard wearing Vibram® sole. Also available in Men’s design.

Weight: 1228g (M), 1076g (W). www.allsports.co.nz

68//WHERE

An extremely light weight approach shoe. Breathable waxed Cordura with mesh lining, sticky 360 rubber rand , Salewa extreme outsole. The perfect weapon for technical approach and difficult terrain. Women’s, Colours Smoke/Waterfall Weight 410g | sales@bobo.co.nz

Ahnu’s Neutral Positioning System promotes proper balance helping your foot to stay aligned and centered, breathable mesh upper encourages air flow and cooling when you’re on the go. Available in-store in October. www.allsports.co.nz

A medium-weight boot with maximum comfort featuring waterproof/breathable Gore-Tex® lining, rugged Vibram® sole, speed lacing, extra ankle support and padding in targeted areas. Also available in Women’s design. Weight: 1240g (M), 1070g (W). www.allsports.co.nz

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#160

The link between the comfort and lightness of Trail Runners with the technical features of true Approach shoes such as a sticky Vibram outsole and climbing rubber rand. Men’s and Women’s, Colours Smoke/Waterfall Smoke silver Weight M 410g W 350g | sales@bobo.co.nz

A new lightweight, everyday training or racing shoe bolstered with Snake Plate™ protection on outsole to reduce stone bruising underfoot without sacrificing flexibility. Neutral design allows a natural stride turnover without correction that’s ideal for mechanically sound runners. www.thenorthface.com.au | NZ 0800805806

Whether a short day hike or multiple day excursion up to the snow level, this boot will take good care of you. The Vibram® outsole ensures that you’ll always have traction while the fullgrain leather upper and eVent® waterproof membrane keep your feet dry and comfortable.

(09) 373 1460 | www.teva.com

161

kathmandu//Altai Pack40L: $259.98 / 50L: $279.98

Great Tramping pack. Integrated rain cover, separate lid compartment, bottom compartment separated by draw string.

Smart pockets insuring quick access to smaller items. Weight 2000g ,Capacity 50+10L 60+10L 70+10L. sales@bobo.co.nz

The north face//Longhaul 30 $599.00

The ultimate piece of luggage for week-long journeys, this bag features a wet/dry compartment so you can head straight to the airport from the beach without your soggy board shorts leaking on other items. 88 Liters volume. www.thenorthface.com.au |NZ 0800 805 806

Highly featured day walking or overnight pack available in 40L or 50L. Features padded air mesh harness with adjustable sternum strap and removable hipbelt. Compatible with a 3L hydration bladder. www.kathmandu.co.nz / 0800 00 1234

Macpac//kakapo 35 $199.95

Extremely durable AzTecTM fabric; single compartment, lid pocket, aluminium buckle and is hydration compatible. The T-BoneTM harness balances breathabilitiy with stability; hip belt is easily removable. Available exclusively at Macpac stores in NZ and online. 0800 622 722 | www.macpac.co.nz

marmot//aero $89.00

marmot//mesa $99.00

marmot//Kompressor $79.00

marmot//Urban Hauler $69.00

The Mesa is set up for studying or working on the go with a media pocket and laptop storage in the main compartment.

822g 22 litres. www.marmotnz.co.nz

The remarkable lightweight Kompressor has three points of load-shrinking compression, stows into its own lid, includes a Hydration Sleeve and turns into a day pack for summit blasts or side hikes. 283g. 15 litres. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Handy go anywhere pack. Laptop storage in main compartment, gear loops for outdoor adventures and loads of pockets. 879g. 20 litres. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Featuring state-of-the-art, green UpCycled速 fabrics. Shoulder strap converts to a handy carry handle and internal organiser pocket makes keeping track of smaller items a breeze. 26 litres. www.marmotnz.co.nz

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gear guide 2010

Salewa //Kailua 50+10 $249.00

Versatile hiking pack offering excellent ventilation. Separate lower compartment. Waist harness. Attachment for hiking poles. Opening for hydration and integrated rain cover. Colour: Iceblue/Blue, Black, Red/red. Weight: 850g. Capacity: 26L, 30L, 36L. sales@bobo.co.nz

*all prices shown are RRP

Salewa //Summit 26 $179.00

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gear guide 2010

the north face//Mens Thunder Jacket $549.95

the north face//Mens Diad Jacket $499.00

the north face//Mens Aconcagua Jacket $339.95

the north face//Mens Apex Bionic $289.95

Macpac//Traverse Jacket $449.95

Macpac//Pulse Pullover $199.95

The Thunder Jacket is the ultimate, über-lightweight mid-layer for outdoor athletes to sport in cold-weather conditions. With a true sweater-like fit, this luxurious 800 fill down jacket is a compact jacket for multi-purpose backcountry endeavours. www.thenorthface.com.au | NZ Phone 0800 805 806

The North Face Apex Bionic Jacket is our most versatile and widely worn soft shell with enhanced windproof features to complement a stretchy, comfortable fit. www.thenorthface.com.au | NZ Phone 0800 805 806

marmot//Oracle Jacket (M & W) $399.00

Value-oriented, high-performance shell made in MemBrain® Strata™ waterproof/breathable fabric. Fully featured, it’s ideal for hiking, alpine climbing and backpacking. 100% seam taped, Pack Pockets™ and zip-off hood. 507g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

70//WHERE

Designed for mountaineering and other sports in which weight and space are crucial, this waterproof, breathable hard shell jacket features HyVent DT 2.5 L fabric with added mechanical stretch for optimal flexibility and mobility when it counts. www.thenorthface.com.au | NZ Phone 0800 805 806

Made from eVent fabric, the most breathable waterproof fabric available, this offers the best performance in all weather conditions! Features include zip-away adjustable hood, abrasion resistant shoulder panels and a welded chest pocket. Available in women’s specific fit also.

0800 622 722 | www.macpac.co.nz

marmot//DriClime Catalyst Jacket $199.00

Using Upcycle® DriClime® fabric this lightweight, wind resistant, water repellent, breathable garment is known for its excellent wicking abilities keeping you dryer and warmer when you’re on the go. 303g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#161

This all-around, rugged, down-insulated jacket is an ideal go-to jacket for everyday use in cold-weather. With tonal colour blocked shoulders and sides, this attractive jacket keeps athletes warm on and off the mountain. www.thenorthface.com.au | NZ Phone 0800 805 806

Windproof softshell fabric with fleece inside turns the Pulse Pullover into your ideal jacket. Designed to keep your lower back warm when riding and enough reflective detailing to make sure you’re noticed in the dark. Available exclusively at Macpac stores throughout NZ or online. For more details call freephone: 0800 622 722 or check out www.macpac.co.nz

marmot//Kitzbuhel Vest $199.00

Blending style with year-round practicality to take the bite out of mountain evenings or add extra warmth against summertime chill. Easy to care for synthetic insulation making this is a versatile layering piece. 329g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

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patagonia//Woman’s Capilene 2 Zip-Neck $119.00

Featuring maximum breathability, superior wicking and the fastest dry time of all our Capilene® fabrics. Details include a deep zipper; raglan sleeves and side seams that roll forward for smooth layering. Made with 4-oz 100% polyester. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

patagonia//Men’s R1 Pullover $219.00

The R1® Pullover is made with Regulator® grid fleece.

Lightweight, warm, compressible, highly breathable and moisture wicking, it is the perfect base or midlayer for highoutput activities in cold environments. 24 different colours available across M’s & W’s. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

merrell//Woman’s Stride Jacket $159.00

patagonia//Woman’s Integral Jacket $269.00

patagonia//Men’s Ascensionist Jacket $499.00

patagonia//Men’s Talus Jacket $499.00

merrell//Men’s Trance Jacket $299.00

merrell//Woman’s Stowe Jacket $199.00

Wonderful Midweight Polartec® fleece with a sweater-knit face makes up our super comfy Stride jacket. Designed to fit perfectly alone or under a light shell. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

We bonded a warm, dense polyester fleece liner to the tightly woven 4-way-stretch Polartec® Power Shield® polyester face fabric for superb weather-resistance and warmth with soft-shell performance. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

Made with a lightweight, breathable 2-way stretch-woven polyester; Heavier fabric panels on the front torso and arms are bonded to a windproof membrane, backed with a wicking grid fleece. A Deluge® DWR finish protects against light rain and snow. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

The Trance soft shell jacket isn’t just a soft shell. It’s an OptiShell, which means it’s also a fully seam sealed; waterproof breathable. Velcro adjustable wrist closures, adjustable drawcord hem. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

The dense 2-way-stretch polyester double weave, with stitchless seams, has exceptional water- and wind-resistance, a rapid dry time and superb breathability. 3-way-adjustable hood; large handwarmer pockets, internal security pocket; articulated arms; self-fabric cuff tabs; drawcord hem. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

This tech-shell is made from double-woven nylon/polyester/ elastane fabric, and provides durable warmth, wind and water-resistant protection for everything from backpacking to backcountry skiing. 3 CFM and a DWR water-resistant finish. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

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gear guide 2010

Quick-wicking, fast-drying and super breathable, it provides 15-UPF sun protection and layers well in cooler conditions. The crew feels silky, features an athletic cut and raglan sleeves.

Made from 100% all-recycled polyester. www.nevada-sport.co.nz | 03 347 9566

*all prices shown are RRP

patagonia//Men’s Capilene 1 Graphic Crew $89.00

161 *all prices shown are RRP

gear guide 2010

Marmot//Genesis Jacket $799.00

Marmot//ROM Jacket $399.00

Marmot//E Line Jacket $379.00

Marmot//Scree Pants (M & W) $249.00

Marmot//Women’s Gravity Jacket $299.00

Marmot//Women’s Summerset Vest $199.00

Marmot//Women’s Eclipse Jacket $229.00

Marmot//Minimalist Jacket (M & W) $499.00

Marmot//PreCip Jacket (M & W) $279.00

Expert-level jacket featuring Marmot M1 Softshell - waterresistant, breathable, windproof, durable, warm and stretch.

Techtonic Welded Construction uses bonding rather than stitching the 4 way stretch fabric, effectively eliminating seams. 680g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Light-weight, versatile softshell pant that excels for everything from spring ski tours to alpine climbs. Marmot M3 Softshell fabric - water repellent/breathable, zippered hand and thigh pockets, ankle zippers. 482g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

4-way stretch softshell fabric is crafted with urban flair to create a soft and smart cool weather outer layer in a longer length. Marmot M3 Softshell - water repellent and breathable.

544g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

72//WHERE

Stands for Range of Motion. This zonally constructed jacket uses air permeable Marmot M2 softshell and GORE® WINDSTOPPER® fabrics to create an incredibly comfortable, breathable garment that’s also windproof and highly waterresistant. 527g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Blending style with practicality, the highly wind-resistant, sturdy Gravity is the perfect jacket for your next adventure.

Marmot M2 Softshell - water repellent and breathable, 4-way stretch woven nylon for easy of movement. 709g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Lightweight shell, featuring Gore’s unique Paclite®, guaranteed to keep you dry. 100% seam taped for full waterproofness, PitZips™ for aggressive venting, attached adjustable hood, zippered hand pockets, Angel-Wing Movement™. 425g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#160

Wind resistant properties of a technical softshell and clean, artful lines that complement your favourite pair of jeans. Water repellent and breathable, zippered chest and handwarmer pockets, interior touch media pocket. 686g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Breathable, wind resistant comfort using Marmot’s M3 stretchable softshell technology. Great for active lifestyle layering, when flexibility is key. Sized specifically for women.

405g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

A reliable, functional rainwear jacket for backcountry and urban travellers alike. Features PreCip® Dry Touch Technology waterproof/breathable fabric, 100% seam taped, PitZips™ for aggressive venting and packs into own pocket! 340g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

161

Salewa//Bivi bag storm $99.00

Coated bivouac sack, waterproof up to 10,000 mm, cord for closing hood from within, adequate room for a sleeping bag, zip opening at bottom. Weight 440g. www. sales@bobo.co.nz

Marmot//Sawtooth MemBrain Reg $549.00

Versatile down bag utilises 2L MemBrain® fabric, waterproof/ breathable laminate technology, with warm 600+ fill goose down. 1447g. Rated: -9.4C. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Salewa //Diadem Micro 250 $279.00

Super small pack size,fully closable hood, Inner pocket for valuables Compression bag Fill 250 g 70/30 grey duck down 400+ Pack size 34x13 cm Temperature (°C) +12°/+8°/-10 Weight (g) 800g | sales@bobo.co.nz

Kiwi Adventure/bounty $149.99

Rectangular box foot bag with cross over zip, shaped hood and offset quilt construction. Features include draft strip, neck muff, inner pocket and zipper snag guard. Suitable for all-year round indoor use and 3/4 season outdoor use. www.kiwiadventuregear.co.nz

Marmot//Helium MemBrain Reg $1049.00

Best weight to warmth down in the market - 850+ Fill Power Goose Down. Features Marmot’s MemBrain® 2L waterproof/ breathable fabric, allowing the moisture to escape but keeping the harsh elements out. 1050g. Rated: -9.4C. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Salewa //Sigma Micro 800 $169.00

Super small pack size giving light travellers a huge advantage!

Fill 360 g Powerfill (Synthetic) Pack size 28x17 cm Temperature (°C) +11°/+7°/-7° Weight 820 g sales@bobo.co.nz

Marmot//Women’s Trestles 30 $179.00

Women-specific fit with synthetic insulation, this full-featured bag is designed for sustained cool, wet weather. Also available in Men’s and Kids sizing. 1332g Rated: -1.1C. www.marmotnz.co.nz

Marmot//Alpinist Bivy $349.00

100% seam taped for waterproofness and durability and compresses like magic into any pack. Lightweight high-tech Marmot MemBrain® fabric breathes easily while blocking wind and water. Max weight: 0.43g. www.marmotnz.co.nz

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gear guide 2010

A 20d FeatherLite™ ripstop nylon outer material combined with 800 Loft Goose down leaves the total weight of the Express 600 at 980 grams including the stuff sac! The trapezoidal baffle construction, differential cut and the adjustable 3D hood help to keep you warm three seasons of the year (-2ºC Limit of Comfort). 0800 622 722 | www. macpac.co.nz

*all prices shown are RRP

Macpac//Express 600 Std $729.95

//161 //canada/skiing

canadian virgin STORY Vanessa James IMAGES Joel Dickinson

Big White

After another rock infused winter on the slopes of Ruapehu, I had a hankering to do something outlandish… The moot of an overseas snowboarding holiday was raised and a willing participant found in my boyfriend. After some research and chats to fellow snow bunnies, we concluded Canada would be a wise option.

The first hurdle we faced was choosing which resorts to stay at.

Whistler is always branded as a desirable destination likewise, Banff and Calgary. Instead we decided on Big White and Silverstar situated near Kelowna and Vernon, West British Colombia.

Everyone discouraged us from an early December arrival due to late snow falls over the past few seasons. Lured however, by our excitement to see Greenday in Auckland and spend Christmas with our families we went ahead with the original dates.

Savings accounts raided, before we knew it we were touching down in Vancouver to a frosty reception by Canadian customs. Our thick accents, inappropriate attire and general kiwi ‘freshness’ got us as far as the first desk, before we were interrogated about “the true purpose of our trip.” The temptation to pull out a quote from “Road trip” was almost too enticing…

We took three days to investigate Vancouver, get accustomed to the northern hemisphere chill and accept service tipping as a rite of passage.

Transportation was a breeze as we could train to the airport and then it is only an hours flight to Kelowna from Vancouver. “Kev” our merry transfer driver typified most Canadians we encountered; recounting his travels to down under and asking us if we knew ‘Dave from Northland’. He

delivered us to Big White beneath a blizzard of darkness and we awoke to a beautiful sunrise capped with frosty boy snow.

By 9.30am we were fed, under dressed and blazing down the sun drenched slopes. Our preparation of clothing consisted of, “What do we wear on a -8˚ day at Ruapehu?” This strategy did not prevail and by 10.30am I was in tears under duress of self diagnosed frostbite and facial paralysis. Over the next few days, my involuntary Canadian Chemical peel came off and Joel began sporting a face mask akin to Hannibal Lecter.

Despite the Western slopes being closed, seven eastern lifts were open allowing for ample runs all day. We had five action packed days at Big White. Each one consisted of cobalt skies and watery Canadian attempts at a latte. The snow ranged from light champagne to densely packed powder (discovered by Joel after he disappeared down a few tree bases) and the temperature bottomed out at -40 degrees. Brrrr!

About eighty percent of the employees were Australian, and there were innumerable times we were asked about which state of the green and gold we originated from. Our usual retort was to parallel the common Canadian/American confusion thus quelling further comment!

Other highlights from Big White included discussing cuts of moose with the locals, dabbling in the cheapest Canadian beers and taking snaps of Joel at the ice rink on a skating-zimmerframe.

Silverstar

From here it was onto Silverstar; about 45 minutes from Kelowna and 20 minutes from Vernon. Driving into Silverstar is reminiscent of Noddyland with it’s Victorian themed architecture and quaint little village.

Before we embarked on the trails, one of the locals gave us some salient advice: always get back before its dark and watch out for the bear on the Whisky Jack run!

Above: Vanessa, up close and personal with the Canadian pow!

74//WHERE

ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#161

Above: Getting stuck outside in the spa pool in minus 15 degrees!; Enjoying the view; and, Ice skating rink at Big White

We found accommodation to be super reasonable yet rather luxurious.

Initially baffled by the absence of sleeping arrangements, we located the Murphy bed in the wall and settled down to a glass of Okanagan vino in front of the gas fire. White Christmas bliss!

Before we embarked on the trails, one of the locals gave us some salient advice: always get back before its dark and watch out for the bear on the Whisky Jack run! What he neglected to tell us, as he got up and exited the outdoor spa pool, was the door code. After 40 minutes of Joel running back to the condo to try various code combinations, I finally accepted responsibility for leaving the number behind the locked door and bikini braved it. It was a warm day, -15º or so, but after my jandals suctioned onto the ice ridden deck, and my butt fastened itself to the fence I scaled… any humour (or humility) I had previously paraded, vanished.

The snow here was simply epic. Every snowflake was a perfect “stellar dendrite” and the scenery rivalled Queenstown. There was a plethora of

cross country ski runs and plenty of black diamond runs accessible to intermediate boarders and skiers. The longest run is 8km–(extreme thighburnage for boarders), and there is ample opportunity for exploration into tree lined runs endearingly named Skunk Hollow, Little Dipper and Gopher glades. Although Silverstar exerted more Canadaisms with its cliquey little community, it was here we pondered a permanent state. Do we have to go home…?

Overall, both resorts had something for everyone. Telus Park (terrain park) exhibited the typical low-riding boarders riding rails, Silverstar offered variable gradients slightly more pitched for skiers, whilst Big White presented trails equipped for tricks and speed. Tubing and ice skating were just a taste of the alpine activities available, and the various cafes, restaurants and bars made for an exciting nightlife. If you are musing over possible winter holiday destinations, it is difficult to go past Canada for ease of organisation and its numerous options for winter sports lovers of all abilities. n

Go to

Winter with us

WI N o wo w H a ww r oli t w.s kitr h $ da ave 1 y ller 5 ,0 .co 00 .nz for Sn

det ails

former World Cup Slalom Champion, Olympian and Ski Traveller ambassador

Sun Peaks Resort...

Canada’s 3rd largest ski area • Private Ski Lesson with Nancy Greene – Olympic Champion • Canada’s best Ski-in Ski-out village • Complimentary Mountain Tours everyday with the local “Sun Guides” • Experience the New 8 Peaks Day Package at Mike Wiegele Heliskiing – day trip from Sun Peaks • www.skitraveller.co.nz/canada/Sun+Peaks Photo: Paul Morrison

Toll Free:

0800 11 22 99

Auckland: 09 520 8335 or 520 8334

NYQ0710

Location:

333 Remuera Road, Auckland

Email:

info@skitraveller.co.nz

Web:

www.skitraveller.co.nz

canadian virgin 2 STORY Tom Gordon and Vicki Watson IMAGE Tourism Sunpeaks

Sunpeaks

We also arrived in Vancouver as virgins and displayed all the classical signs of “first-timers”. We were nervous and hoped that no-one would notice that we had never done this before. We wandered around the airport carrying skis and way too many bags to be cool but what we hadn’t counted on was just how friendly everyone was and how easy it is to travel as a skier. This place is set up for skiers and caters for them in the best possible way.

Sun Peaks, 40 minutes drive from Kamloops airport, has some very cool features, like a green run from the top of every lift. There is always an easy way down from any lift on the mountain so no chance of being stuck at the top with only black runs ahead of you. One thing we slowly became aware of was the silence as we rode the chair lifts. No crunching as skis scratch over icy patches, no grating as boards are shredded on rocks, just the very gentle swish-swish of skis and boards on well-groomed perfect powder.

The Fondue evening with night skiing is one of those first-time experiences that help you realise what all the fuss has been about. At dusk we took the lift up to the top cafe and there we were transported back to the 1970s: cheese fondue, chocolate fondue, plenty of wine and a lack of inhibition. We met some great people from Belgium and

played lots of fact finding games. Our table soon resembled a University Challenge quiz session and after eating the fabulous food, and singing to the Axel-Rose lookalike entertaining us, we all skied back down five-mile run in the pitch darkness. Not something I would do sober but that sort of thing happens to a first-timer. We had head lamps and guides and there was enough moonlight to see most of what we needed to see. A surreal experience which made us realise we’d come to yet another amazing ski resort.

Nancy Greene is the local celebrity having won piles of Olympic medals during her downhill skiing career, owns parts of the resort, is now a Canadian Senator and is someone everyone wants to be seen skiing with. Nancy is famous in Canada and is right up there with Oprah, Camilla and Angelina as another person who is known by first name only. We were lucky enough to spend the morning with her seeing the great sights of Sun Peaks and we got a real sense of how these celebrities live. Purely by association, everyone wanted to know who we were, and sent us off the chairlift with a “say hi to Nancy for us!” She loves this resort and is often there on weekends meeting the visitors.

Sun Peaks has plenty of off-piste action to keep everyone busy. It is one of the larger ski villages so has a great selection of bars, restaurants and cafes. We did our best to sample all the varied establishments but

Words of advice though, don’t sit near the front where a lot of the view is of two horses’ arses.

Believe me, those guys needed to cut back on the hay; they had big problems.

Right: Sunpeaks beauty

Book now to get the best deals

Ensure your expectations are always met. Contact New Zealand’s leading snow holiday experts. Over 30 years of experience, exceptional resort knowledge, excellent value and a truly tailor made first class service are just a few reasons why so many clients choose repeatedly to use Ski Travel Specialists. All our consultants have skied or boarded at Silver Star, Big White & Sun Peaks so call us now for some expert advice for your next Ski adventure.

Phone 09 307 1350 or email julie@skitravel.co.nz for more information.

realised that would have taken longer than we had. We also tried the sleigh ride but were struck down by a serious case of the giggles. There is something very funny about some Kiwis sitting in a picture postcard snow sleigh with tartan rugs over our legs looking like a group of grannies off for an outing. The scene was real chocolate box scenery however and charming to experience as the sun started to set. Words of advice though, don’t sit near the front where a lot of the view is of two horses’ arses. Believe me, those guys needed to cut back on the hay; they had big problems.

The night-time snowshoe tour was the last of an incredible list of activities we were trying. Given this was our third resort and ending two weeks in Canada, we started to think ourselves as no longer virgins, but seasoned players. A walk in the snow with tennis racquets on our feet seemed like it would be fun but we were so overcome with all the activities we’d already done, that we thought it would simply not ring our bell. After the mandatory North American safety briefing of the possible risks of going for a walk up the mountain at night, we headed off into the wilderness, which was really just around the back of the grooming machines warehouse and up the hill a bit. Before we knew it, our faces were covered in smiles and we were chortling out loud. The night was cold and crisp and we were surrounded by that special silence that hangs around high mountain snow. Sir Ed would have loved this place. Our hip flask of sipping whiskey helped us reach the campfire area and those

toasted marshmallows under the stars were the best we ever had. Just as well we had listened so hard to the next safety briefing about the correct use of our Marshmallow Toasting Implements (a stick) or we might have really hurt ourselves. It was one of those events that we weren’t really keen on but turned out to be another very memorable part of the trip. The stars that night, and this time I’m not talking Oprah and Angelina, shone their brilliance upon us that made four Kiwis feel tiny and insignificant. We realised we need to always be keen to try new things as you never know what you might find out about yourself.

A drive back down the mountain on Friday evening saw us at the local hockey game. You have to experience this when you’re in Canada as they are more obsessed than Kiwis are with rugby or the English with football.

The game is almost the last thing you watch as the crowd, the facilities and atmosphere totally absorb your attention. The rules seem complicated at first but you only have to ask the local sitting next to you and they commit themselves to converting you by the end of the game.

Expect all the knowledge of players and scores and history of the club to be passed on.

Thus ended a spectacular trip to Canada. Believe me this is no ordinary overseas holiday. You find yourself reliving every run and playing “do you remember when...” games. It is a place that I want to bring my children to, and for them to take their children to.

Life is just too short not to try it. n

WWW.FALLINESPORTS.COM

THE GOGGLE STOP GOGGLE RETENTION SYSTEM

+ [ADVENTURE] accommodation Rated by Qualmark at 4 star plus +

 

Auckland Tramping Club

EST 1925



Ruapehu Mountain Hut



Well priced family accommodation.

Find out more by visiting:



www.aucklandtramping.org.nz

    

For booking, email John Dalley at memorialhut@aucklandtramping.org.nz

Superbly situated on the doorstep to Turoa, the Whakapapa ski areas and the World Heritage Listed Tongariro National Park, is Ohakune’s newest and most luxurious chalet accommodation.

Rocky Mountain Chalets

20 Rangataua Rd (SHW49), Ohakune For reservations phone 06 3859545 email: Info@rockymountainchalets.com www.rockymountainchalets.com

Oskat Forest Park

Backpacker Accommodation & Eco tours

CORONET VIEW

Deluxe Queenstown Accommodation

Nestled in the rolling hills of the Cardrona Valley, The Cardrona Hotel is one of New Zealand’s oldest hotels. A comfortable 40 minute drive from Queenstown and only 20 minutes from Wanaka, this unique hotel offers both quality accommodation and traditional hospitality. Experience the rustic charm of the hotel’s historic restaurant and bar which has recently undergone extensive refurbishment. Catering for groups of up to 120, or Al Fresco dining for 200, the Cardrona Hotel selects only the freshest local produce to create a truly memorable dining experience.

The hotel is complemented by 16 well-appointed ensuite rooms with delightful cottage garden views. The accommodation combines modern comforts with an historical ambience and grace.

Approximately 10 minutes walk from the center of Queenstown, Coronet View Apartments have 1-6 bedrooms all ensuited and Luxury ensuited B&B are conveniently located for any social, recreational or tourist activity in Queenstown.

The stunning views over Queenstown township, Lake Wakatipu, The Remarkables and Coronet Peak will take your breath away - especially in the winter months (June to October) when they are dusted in snow.

“Your home away from home” Queenstown, New Zealand

Crown Range Road · RD1 · Wanaka · New Zealand Tel: +64 3 443 8153 · Fax: + 64 3 443 8163 Email: info@cardronahotel.co.nz

CORONET VIEW 30 Huff St, Queenstown ph 03 442 6766 | mob 0274 320 895 FREE phONE

0800 896766

For Tramping, Mountain Biking, Trout fishing, and 4x4 tours.

Bookings Essential for Tours

Contact Owen & Shelley Williams 720 SH 33, R.D. 9 Te Puke Phone 07 533 1236 | Mobile 0272686333 info@oskat-forest-park.com www.oskat-forest-park.com

Pukenui Lodge National Park Village l Mt Ruapehu New Zealand

Pukenui Lodge has a wide range of accommodation including backpacker, ensuite, family rooms and self contained units.

The perfect base for your Ruapehu adventure. Ideally situated so you can choose to ski either Whakapapa or Turoa resorts.

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photo courtesy of www.flyozone.com

www.tongariro.cc Ph: 0800-785-368 Email: pukenuilodge@xtra.co.nz

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Welcome to The Peaks, Ohakune’s newest motor inn - and the perfect base for any visit to the Ruapehu region, summer or winter. We’re conveniently located on the main road to Turoa ski area, 900m from Ohakune’s central business district and 900m to ‘The Junction’, home to popular après-ski activities. The Peaks features 23 spacious, warm studio and one-bedroom units. Call today or see our website for the latest special offers.

Cnr Mangawhero Tce & Shannon St email: reservations@thepeaks.co.nz Phone 06 385 9144

www.thepeaks.co.nz

+ [ADVENTURE] retail & tours Leaders in wearable EcoTech

“Free energy using solar power” “...light weight-ideal for adventure racing” Steve Gurney Adventure Racer 7

36

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IP66

Wearable Light from the sun No more batteries Available from: Bivouac, Hunting & Fishing, Hamills Retail enquires: www.2CLight.co.nz ph.03 981 8376

RIVER RATS RAFT & KAYAK River Rats have been offering quality adventures for over 25 years. There’s something for everyone, a gentle grade 2 scenic raft trip suitable for participants as young as 5, through to full on grade 5 action. Kayak freedom hire or tours. Paddle the local lakes to a secluded beach or hot pools only accessible by boat.

w w w .southernlakesheliski.co.nz 391 State Highway 33 Mourea, Rotorua Free Phone 0800 333 900 +64 7 345 6543 info@riverrats.co.nz www.riverrats.co.nz

| Walls | Stalactites | Holds | Rock Boulders |

WWW.StaRHoldS.co.nz Phone 0274 389 398

37 Shotover Street, Queenstown T: +64 3 442 6222 39 Helwick Street, Wanaka T: +64 3 443 6410

the awe-inspiring HIMALAYA Annapurna, Everest, Mustang, Nanda Devi, Ladakh, Tibet, Sikkim, Bhutan

Ohakune’s top Ski and Board retail, rental & workshop! Outstanding personal service, all the best brands, qualified boot fitters & Boot Lab. We also retail, rent and repair everything from BMX to Downhill bikes. Most importantly though, we have a passion for what we do!

Small group worldwide adventures.

World Expeditions can take you there.

Call for your FREE brochure.

Exclusive terrain to ski or board in Queenstown, Wanaka and Mount Cook catering for everyone from first time heliskiers to the most experienced. p:03 442 6722

e:hmh@heliski.co.nz

w:www.heliski.co.nz

0800 350 354

worldexpeditions.com

www.tcbskiandboard.co.nz www.facebook.com/people/Tcb-Ohakune 27 Ayr Street, Ohakune 2600 | (06) 385 8433 www.adventuremagazine.co.nz// 79

Rated by Qualmark at 4 star plus +

Superbly situated on the doorstep to Turoa, the Whakapapa ski areas and the World Heritage Listed Tongariro National Park, is Ohakune’s newest and most luxurious chalet accommodation.

Rocky Mountain Chalets

20 Rangataua Rd (SHW49), Ohakune For reservations phone 06 3859545 email: Info@rockymountainchalets.com www.rockymountainchalets.com

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Your all seasons holiday destination

Rocky Mountain Chalets is perfectly situated for all your outdoor Winter and Summer activities – skiing, mountain biking, tramping, fishing and a host of numerous adventure type activities.

Rated by Qualmark at 4 star plus, Rocky Mountain Chalets is an exclusive, alpine style resort made up of 42 individual stand alone luxury chalets, consisting of either two or three bedrooms and depending on the configuration will sleep comfortably up to 8 guests.

Each cosy chalet is beautifully appointed with quality fixtures and furnishings, full size kitchen dishwasher, automatic washing machine, dryer and each features drying cupboard and outside secure storage lockers in each covered carport with lockable hooks for Mountain Bikes.

For those who want to relax after a day up the mountain or other outdoor activity our Recreational Chalet has two piping hot spas, a sauna and guest lounge - the ideal place to wind down or just catch up with friends and family.

To keep you further entertained, we also offer SKY TV and DVD players in all chalets. Also please note that for your comfort ALL chalets at Rocky Mountain are designated NON smoking.

Just a short walk to cafes, supermarket and other specialty shops in the village. For your convenience Rocky Mountain has WiFi broadband internet access available.

Do you have a special occasion coming up? Why not spoil yourself in the fabulous Presidential Chalet, which offers you that special luxury home away from home. Features include, a cosy fireplace, your own private spa pool, gas bbq, designer furnishing, accommodation for 6 in 3 generous bedrooms and a kitchen that appears to be right out of “House and Garden”.

So, whether you are after an action packed, adrenalin pumping vacation OR a relaxed romantic weekend away from the stresses of city living, Rocky Mountain Chalets at Ohakune, offers refined comfort and value for money, for the most discerning traveller.

Rocky Mountain Chalets, 20 Rangataua Rd (SHW49), Ohakune Your Hosts: Bob and Corinne | Phone: 06 3859545 | Fax: 06 3859552 Email: Info@Rockymountainchalets.com www.Rockymountainchalets.com

Photo: Ace Kvale

Marmot Softshells: No limits – set your sights high with Marmot softshells. Featuring cutting-edge windproof, water resistant and breathable fabrics designed to handle whatever nature throws at you. Check out Marmot’s new ROM Jacket with GORE® WINDSTOPPER® and M2 stretch fabric - lightweight technologies that won’t slow you down! marmotnz.co.nz