February 2015 / Pécs City Guide

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Pécs City Guide Feb 2015 / Issue 01 / Free

INSIDE

BIN-JIP, BRAINDOGS, SPRING HIGHLIGHTS, SURVEILLANCE, ZIERFANDLER, MAGASHÁZ

Don’t be just a visitor, Pécs has more to offer.


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Contents&Co

4 In Brief

More surveillance cameras, Shopping ban, Botanic garden gets facelift

6 Feature

Event highlights this spring

8 Drink&Dine

Disznótor, Zierfandler

12 To Do

Bin-Jip, Donumenta, Braindogs, Wild

14 Essentials

Still Standing: The Magasház

The best of Pécs in English

HI

, this is the first issue of Pécs City Guide magazine and I think, I should explain to you, what this is all about. Long story short, I started the PCG project in fall 2014 as a crowd-funding campaign on IndieGoGo.com. My idea was to create and run a website about Pécs in English. About events, culture, food, new bars and news in general. A successful crowd-funding campaign would have made it possible to have daily updates, weekly newsletters and all this without ads. Unfortunately, the campaign did not reach its goal, though it had some positive results. First, I started blogging about Pécs in English again. Second, the publishing house Mediaworks Ltd, the biggest print publisher in the Hungarian news business, approached me with their idea to start Pécs City Guide as a print magazine.

We were in talks for several months and the outcome is now in your hands. I hope you’ll like what you read here. Pécs City Guide will be a free, monthly magazine. You can grab upcoming issues from bars, cafés etc. Suggestions, where you would like to get them, are always welcome. You will find news on p4, features on p6-7. Bar and restaurant reviews, recommendations on p8-10. P12 and p13 is about events. On p14 you will find stories that are essential to understand Pécs. I’m quite sure, the first issue isn’t flawless at all. I’m also quite sure, no issue will be flawless at all. But we will always work hard to make it better and better. Every comment, recommendation is highly appreciated. You can contact us at info@pecscityguide.com. The next issue is coming in the first week of March. Ervin Gűth, editor

Pécs City Guide

The free, insert magazine of Dunántúli Napló in English. Editor-in-chief/Publisher: László Póré Managing editor: Ervin Gűth Published by Mediaworks Regionális Kiadó Kft. Baranya Megyei Irodája Sales manager: Gyöngyi Nagy Phone: +36 72 505 060, +36 30 9971 006 E-mail: gyongyi.nagy@mediaworks.hu Printed by Print Média, Pécs ISSN 08659133

Order: 06 72 411 111, 06 30 371 9025 www.donpepe.hu February 2015 Pécs City Guide

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In Brief

DOES MORE SURVEILLANCE, MEAN MORE SECURITY? SUNDAY SHOPPING BANNED IN HUNGARY BY LAWMAKERS

Hungary’s governing parties decided last December that from March 15 2015 nearly all shops have to stay closed on Sundays. Government officials say that the ruling will help families spending more time together. Similar laws are not unknown around the world, but this one is quite unique. New government regulations require stores bigger than 200 square metres to be closed on Sundays, on weekdays between 10pm–6am, and on public holidays. Shops will be allowed to open on five Sundays each year, for example during the Christmas shopping season. Pharmacies, farmers markets and family shops below 200 sq m are permitted to operate on Sundays. Bakeries can also open between 5 am and noon. Retail shops at airports, train stations, gas stations and hospitals also are allowed to operate as late as 10 pm on Sundays.

The botanic garden of the University of Pécs is under renovation, but you can still visit it. The overhaul should be finished in spring.

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Pécs City Guide February 2015

Security cameras are installed in streets with the goal of reducing crime and increasing public safety. The usage of these closed-circuit television (CCTV) systems may on the rise but there are several concerns, too.

There is still some controversy about this new law since small shops owned and run by families will be allowed to open on Sundays. Opposition parties argue that the regulation is only a favour to CBA – which happens to be a big supporter of the government. They also say that the Hungarian grocery franchise won’t be affected that much as multinational grocery chains like Tesco, Aldi or Lidl. According to market analysts 15,000-20,000 jobs could be lost. Tesco is already closing several stores, other chains are still making their calculations and try to reorganize.

BOTANIC GARDEN GETS FACELIFT The 7 hectares big park at Ifjúság útja will be almost completely renewed. New roads, walls and fences are built, but visitors are still allowed. The park used to be the garden of the Jesuit Pius Grammar School, its

Right now 54 surveillance cameras are watching the streets of Pécs, every day and night, but soon there will be 63.

development into a botanical garden was launched in 1952. Today, more than 8000 different species can be observed here, from trees and cacti to coffee plants and orchids. The park can be visited from Monday to Saturday, until dusk.

An independent study has shown that surveillance systems were most effective in parking lots (51% decrease in crime rate) and on public transit systems (23% decrease), while only a 7% decrease could be achieved in city centers and in public housing communities. Other studies suggest that strategically placed cameras were not any different from randomly placed cameras at deterring crime within their viewsheds. In Pécs monitors are watched by public safety official and the police has a connection, too. Information collected by CCTV is kept for 5 days only. After that the system deletes the videos automatically, except there is a reason to keep them.

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Stylish design welcomes you in Jókai Bisztró, and fortunately more and more people recognize that the downtown restaurant opens an easily accessible new gate to the world of gastronomy. The menu has from trendsetting new creations to traditional but re-

ly offers.They also value and use a lot of local, high quality ingredients, some of them coming from the restaurant’s own farm near Pécs. Wine plays also a significant role in Jókai Bisztró’s life, but that becomes quite obvious at first sight. Hungary’s well known wine regions and most popular wineries naturally share the space with rareties and exclusive items. High quality coffee drinks made with the greatest carefullness, coctails, and unique soft drinks make Jókai Bisztró a good choice in any time of the day. Jókai Bisztró got 11 points from Gault Millau’s most recent 2015 edition, and according to Made in Pécs magazine it was the best restaurant of Pécs in 2013. Hungarian news channel Hír TV named the bistro also as number one in its annual test in 2014.

thought dishes and flavours prepared with the most modern technology almost everything. Nothing is overcomplicated (or overpriced): they are simple and good. Seasonality and freshness are key elements. That’s why it’s important to check out regular menu updates and dai-

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Feature

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THE TOP EVENTS IN SPRING Spring is coming. Too early to talk about that? Maybe, but we can’t help thinking of these events and festivals – a lot of them at open air venues already. Let’s see what Pécs has to offer in spring. Nom De Strip

Portugieser du Monde

When Chris Elliot aka Nom De Strip started his solo career – after being successful with Stupid Fresh – he immediately gained the support of Swedish House Maffia, Tiesto, deadmau5. His first tracks – with lots of vocals, a lot of bangs and drops – found their natural home on deadmau5’s highly successful mau5trap label imprint. In 2013, he signed an exclusive deal with Chris Lake’s Rising Music label. Hosts of the evening are the local heroes of Space Inhalerz celebrating their 5th birthday.

The organizers - and a lot of winemakers believe the Portugieser grape variety deserves more attention. This is the third time that an international competition and wine tasting is held and winemakers from all over Europe are expected to participate. The international jury gives prizes in the categories: young and vintage Portugiesers, and blends. And everybody is invited to join them and get to know the different faces of the variety at a public wine tasting.

March 7 Amper Klub (Czinderi str)

More: soundcloud.com/nomdestrip

April 11, Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

More: fb.com/PortugieserDuMonde

Oliver Huntemann

April 18 Amper Klub (Czinderi str)

The trained in electronic engineer, now successful producer and dj is leaving his hometown Hamburg for a short trip to Pécs. Oliver Huntemann’s route to techno took a tour through electro and rave. Huntemann has remixed Underworld, The Chemical Brothers and Depeche Mode, and tours right now with his compilation Play! 05 from 2014.

More: huntemann.tv

Pécs University Days

April 30–May 2 Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

Last year, Pécs University Days accompanied with Zsolnay Festival (see later) was told to be a great success. This year (despite the fact that the festival will begin in less than 2 months) we hardly now anything about its headliners, off programs etc. But it’s quite sure that the festival is going to be a must, so there is no reason not to list it here.

Budapest Festival Orchestra Tap Factory

23. Francophone Week

March 12-18 Several venues It used to be one of the biggest happenings of March in Pécs, but budget cuts affected the festival in recent years. Hopefully, it will be much the same again this year, and French culture, concerts screenings, plays and exhibitions will attract a big audience again. More: af.org.hu

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Pécs City Guide February 2015

Tap Factory

April 13 Kodály Centre

Tap dance, urban percussion, acrobatics, hip hop and comedy collide in the rhythm based theatre show Tap Factory. The french troupe’s new production – in the genre of STOMP and Blue Man Group – incorporates different genres of dance against a contemporary urban setting to create a wholly unique piece of performance.

More: tapfactory.com

May 3 Kodály Centre The Budapest Festival Orchestra is considered to be one of the ten best orchestras in the world and without doubt the very best in Hungary. They brought such world stars to the concert halls of Hungary as Yehudi Menuhin, Pinchas Zukerman. The BFO is accompanied this evening with one of the greatest discoveries of recent years, the French David Fray. Program: the overture of Johan Wagenaar’s Cyrano de Bergerac, Piano Concerto No. 2 in B flat major by Ludwig van Beethoven and Symphony No. 5 in D minor from Dmitri Shostakovich.

More: bfz.hu/en

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IV. Spice Festival

May 6-10, Széchenyi sqr, Jókai sqr As you can see, there will be no week without a festival in May. Wine, spices and grilled dishes are in the focus of this event taking place in the city centre. With concerts, planting herbs and spices and the annual extreme grill competition. More: fb.com/pecsifesztival

III. Hungarian Craft Beer Festival May 14-24, Rózsakert (Janus Pannonius str)

Beer brewing may have its roots in Pécs but this is something completely different. The Hungarian Craft Beer Festival was introduced for the first time in Pécs in October 2013. Without doubt it was one of the best events that year, with more than 10000 attendants. The second could repeat the success flawlessly. We wouldn’t be suprised if the organizers (the guys behind Művész

Zsolnay Festival Presszó and Egylet) would try to top (or tap) that. Concerts and superb street food are just the plus.

More: fb.com/MuveszPresszo

took place in only three days attracted more than 20000 visitors. This years events are still TBA, but classical and pop concerts, dance, theater, indoor and outdoor exhibitions should be on the list.

Zsolnay Festival

More: zsolnayfesztival.hu

The Quarter has a festival almost every month, but these one is special. It’s a mixed arts festival that thrives to be’s the most prestigious of them all. Let the numbers speak: last year the nearly 100 events that

For more information on events look for the following issues of Pécs City Guide and check out pecscityguide.com.

May 29–31 Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

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Drink&Dine

[THIS-NO-THOR]

Disznótor is the feast meal after pig-slaughter. This may sound cruel but not only traditions and the necessity bind Hungarians to pig butchering, the love for foods eaten at these occasions is also important. The pig slaughtering season comes to its end soon, so this is your last chance to try several of these dishes on time.

Kocsonya

Kolbász & Hurka

Kolbász is a sausage made of fatty parts and seasoned with paprika (hot and mild), black pepper, garlic and salt. Hurka - made with pig blood is also known almost everywhere in the world may it called Blutwurst, black pudding etc. These are not the same, but if you like them the Hungarian version is also worth a try. For kolbász Balkán Bisztró (Ferencesek str 32) has a very good one, it’s only a slightly thinner than authentic versions. To eat both, it’s recommended to go to Uránváros market (Hajnóczy str 1) and look for the food booths. Kolbász costs HUF320/10dkg, while hurka is only HUF200/10dkg. Bread (HUF30) is not included.

Take it all

Töpörtyű

Or tepertő. A by-product of cooking fat making, but very delicious. Almost every butcher has them, and you can buy them at local markets, too. Some salt, onions and white bread is all you need. It’s important to ask for fresh!

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Pécs City Guide February 2015

Tourism has discovered the potential of organizing pig slaughter weekends, and there are several options in the region. Hotel Cabernet in Villánykövesd organizes pig killing parties like every weekend till the second week of March. You are greeted with pálinka in the morning (getting drunk is part of the tradition) and can see how proper butchering is done. It’s not a cheap weekend but it’s all you can eat and drink. Two nights at Hotel Cabernet costs HUF42900, but there are several other options as well. More information at hotelcabernet.hu.

“Pork jelly”. It’s not eaten on the day of pig-slaughter but it’s made of leftover parts like legs, ears, tongue, bones and skin. Bones and skin are the most important since cooking them for hours makes the jelly. Restaurants have it on their menu from December till March, most of them have a take out option, too. We tested several of them and there were serious quality issues, but two were outstanding. You can (and should) try Bohemia Sörkonyha’s (Nagy Flórián str 11) for HUF640 and Mátyás Király Vendéglő’s (Ferencesek str 9) kocsonya. At Mátyás K you have to preorder and pick up on Friday. Photo: Joaquim Alves Gaspar

Pre-ordering at Kalamáris Restaurant (Rákóczi str 32) is another great option to try as many disznótor foods as possible. They make a special menu for minimum 8 people until the end of February and it costs HUF3900 per person. This includes tepertő, pork soup, liver stew, hurka, kolbász with braised cabbage. And an absolutely delicious dessert made with pork belly fat.

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WINE FOR EVERYONE (X) Borkatedrális Winery may have a long history, but it’s also a refreshing new spot on the map of the Villány wine region. After the latest renewal they are following their own path, without forgetting the lasting traditions of the well-known Batthyány Winery. Executive manager Adrienn Czigler tells us about the winery’s everyday life.

Where can wine lovers find your products in Pécs? We recently opened our latest Borkatedrális Wine Shop in Pécs, and welcome our returning and new customers at Rákóczi str 6/1, too. Our wine shops have an exceptionally wide range of products, more than 50 different, self produced wines are available. These are mainly high quality bottled wines, that are grouped according to different topics into different wine families. These are the Villány’s Wines Of Protected Origin or Traditional Varieties Of Pécs, and the Dessert Wines Of The Mediterranean. But we also do have wines in 2l plastic bottles.

What are the wines of the mediterranean dessert family? We do not produce only red wines but a wide range of white varieties, with a lot of very aromatic varieties. Wines made of Muscat Ottonel, Tramini and Hárslevelű are mainly consumed and beloved by Hungarians as dessert wines. Our late semi sweet white wines were made also according to these characteristics, like our Mária Muskotály from 2013 and the Hárslevelű. Our sweet Mazsolabor, that has a Tramini base, is also a very exclusive product available in 0.5l bottles and it’s also a great gift idea. From our wines from Pécs I’d recommend to try our dessert wine that is made of Cirfandli. Rumour says that you have something new for the lovers of wines from Villány, too? We have a lot of new wines from 2014 that were bottled for St Martin’s Day. From our local specialities line I have to underline our ADÉL Rozé, made of Portugieser. From our international varieties I’d like to highlight our Chardonnay Barrique, that is a traditionally barrel-aged white wine, and maybe a red one, our Cabernet Franc. But we are also determined to give more prominence to other wine-related products from the region. That’s why we do sell local sparkling water, cold pressed grapeseed oil or even grape and pomace pálinkás in our wine shops. Are there wine tasting events in your winery, too? We warmly welcome everybody interested in our cellar. You can find the Borkatedrális Winery next to the main road at Villánykövesd. Our wine tastings include a wide range of our awarded wines. We can seat 10-40 people, appointment only. For more information send us an email to info@borkatedralis.hu or call +36 30 357 5471. See you there! BORKATEDRÁLIS WINE SHOPS IN PÉCS: Nagyvárad str 11 (Next to Magda confectionery) Rákóczi str 6/1. (Close to Kórház sqr) Rókus str 7/A. (University district, next to Rókus promenade)

February 2015 Pécs City Guide

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Drink&Dine MCDONALD’S CLOSED ON SZÉCHENYI SQUARE AND RELOCATED AT ÁRKÁD

ZIERFANDLER MAKES YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH ZIERFANDLER

Wine production and trade used to have a much bigger role in the city’s economy than today. For decades, the most famous wine from Pécs was the Zierfandler (cirfandli in Hungarian), so it was a good idea to finally name a bar after the variety. Zierfandler is located at Hunyadi János str, that means a little power hiking from Széchenyi sqr. What we are willing to do gladly from now on. As we step in we get the feeling that this is just a simple, old style tavern, where we definitely do not want to be. But taking a quick look at the wine card makes us rethink our first impressions. The small but cosy Zierfandler, that can seat about a maximum of 14-16 people, is definitely the right place, where we do want to spend a couple of hours. The main attraction here are the wines, since the bar has only local wines, all made in the Pécs wine region. The wine region used to be huge (7000 hectares), today only 800 hectares are cultivated. This means, it is not a simple task to maintain and update a wine card that is always exciting to everyone. But Zierfandler manages this easily. Since the region is (or used to be) famous for white wines (HUF150-800/dl), you should not be surprised that you will find mainly white wines on the card. That’s also quite unique in Hungary, where red wines have

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a much better reputation than whites. (Falsely.) Of course, the cirfandli menu (Huf 2500) is absolutely a must. You can taste 8 different cirfandlis (actually the bartender/owner told us that soon there will be 10). From light and crisp to full bodied and sweet you get the whole spectrum. It’s quite sure, that this is the biggest range of cirfandlis at a single place in whole Hungary. It will not make you an expert on cirfandli but you can’t get a better introduction elsewhere. I don’t see any other reason for visiting Zierfandler than tasting wine, but don’t worry if you just have to accompany your wine fanatic friend. They have bottled beers (Szalon HUF250, Paulaner HUF600, Heineken 0,33l HUF380), a lots of spirits and the usual non-alcoholic beverages like juices, coffee and tea, too. I don’t think it will be my favourite place in Pécs, but I’m quite sure that from time to time we will have to go back and check their cirfandli menu updates. ZIERFANDLER Hunyadi János str 52; Open: Tue-Sat 4pm-10pm; Contact (mobile): +36 30 411 5581.

The main HQ of McDonald’s closed its door in January, since they didn’t want to sign a contract for another 20 years with the city. The unit will be missed by a lot of people, others are happy to see it go. Actually, the number of McDonald’s units did not change, so there will be no less junk food in Pécs. As of January 17 they relocated in Árkád, accompanying KFC and Burger King. Unlike other locations in Király and Ferencesek str this will not be without a tenant: a group of investors already won the tender. Newspapers say, the new shop will have wine and coffe in focus.

The 5 Best* Espressos 1. Balkán Bisztró (Lucky Cap)

2. Cafe Frei (self branded)

3. Coffeeshop Company (self branded)

4. Jókai Bisztró (Carraro)

5. Ciao Pizzeria (Perté)

*Editor’s opinion, based on price, quality, and reliability.

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To Do

Bin-Jip Bin-Jip is the best example to demonstrate that trip-hop and nujazz are not only hyped and temporary genres of music from the past. On their second album Heavy, released December 2014, they experiment even more with electronic sounds. Singer Veronika Harcsa, music producer/dj Andrew J and guitarist Bálint Gyémant worked almost secretly on their first, self-released

album titled Enter in 2010. This time, their approach to songwriting was quite different: new pieces were tested right away on their audience while on tour and reconsidered based on the received feedback. Bin-Jip is a very democratic community, where the musicians are almost peers in writing, arranging the songs and being producers of the project. Lyrics are usually pro-

vided by professional jazz singer Veronika Harcsa, getting her inspiration from dreams or little stories that happened to her. The mastermind behind the production is Andrew J dedicating most time to tweaking sounds, while Bálint Gyémánt thrives as a guitarist. And the eclectic, modern and experimental sounds just work. February 28, 9pm, Pécsi Est Café (Rákóczi str. 46) HUF1200/1500.

Donumenta

The Braindogs It started as a one-time gig. Hungarian musicians got together, for the first time in 2004, to celebrate their idol Tom Waits on his 55th birthday. More than a decade later, the tribute band The Braindogs is still active, with one or two performances every year in Pécs, too. The bourbon soaked voice of the American singer-songwriter-actor Tom Waits is so characteristic and bound to his songs that nobody else should be allowed to copy his art. Except someone who has the same ability of processing alcohol into great blues. And this

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Pécs City Guide February 2015

is the point where British singer and guitarist Ian Siegal steps into the game. Thanks to the blues artist – backed by Ripoff Raskolnikov (A) and famous Hungarian musicians like Tibor Kiss and Livius Varga (Quimby), and Frenk – the concerts of The Braindogs aren’t imitations, but real performances. „Funny thing is, at first people came to our concerts as fans of Tom Waits, but now they come as fans of The Braindogs” – said the several British Blues Awards winner Siegal in an interview. February 26, 8pm, E78 (Zsolnay Cultural Quarter) HUF1990/2390.

The best metaphor for crossborder cooperation in Europe is the Danube. This is what the founders of the donumenta recognized more than a decade ago. Between 2003 and 2011, donumenta has given a demonstration of the most current art of the countries along the river, following its geographical flow. The exhibition titled 14 x 14 – Survey of the Danube Region. Individual Views. displays photography and sculpture of outstanding artists from the 14 countries of the region. 14 contemporary, internationally renowned sculptors, painters, installation and media artists as well as a photographer reflect the realities, experiences and utopias of their home countries in 26 snapshots. In Pécs, a special honour is given to István Csákány. In addition to his photographs, the internationally known and successful Hungarian artist, living in Berlin, presents his installation Coat Stand. Jan 23–Feb 20, Pécsi Galéria (Széchenyi sqr) HUF250/500.

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To Do

Wild More than a decade after the huge success of High Fidelity and About a Boy it’s still not a big surprise to see other novels by Nick Hornby get their movie versions. In 2014 a British black comedy titled A Long Way Down rolled out, but Wild, directed by Jean-Marc Vallée starring Reese Witherspoon and Laura Dern is something completely different. This time the acclaimed author wrote

the script based on the biographic novel of Cheryl Strayed. After two tragedies – her divorce and the loss of her mother – Cheryl (Reese Witherspoon) decides to hike more than 1100 miles as a therapy. The movie depicts her inner and outer struggle while flashbacks give hints about her troubled past and the relationship between Cheryl and her mother (Laura Dern).

The film is heavily marketed as Reese Witherspoon’s comeback. That could be a successful strategy, since not only the movie received good reviews but both – Witherspoon and Laura Dern – were nominated for the Oscar, in the categories Best Actress and Best Supporting Actress. In English with Hungarian subtitles. Feb 19–Feb 25, Apolló Mozi (Perczel Miklós str 22) HUF1050/850.

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Essentials It was neither the first nor the last time that Pécs tried to dream big but failed desperately. The Magasház became a symbol of incompetence (on many levels) but it is also part of the cityscape and has admirers, too. The 17-floor residential building in Uránváros, the little sibling of Magasház (Tall House) also built in 1974, is still inhabited. The problems with the taller, 25-storey brother began to show up only 9 years after construction started – and only 6 years after the first tenants moved in. In 1983 officials realized that the glue filling the gaps between building elements caused unforeseen problems. More precisely, the paste speeded up the corrosion of metal structures that hold the building together. It took 5 more years to declare the high-rise building for dangerous and in December 1989, right before Christmas, it had to be evacuated. Since then, it’s the tallest out-of-use building in Central Europe. Although over the years officials came up with several plans that would make use of the 84 m high building again almost nothing has happened. In 2003 its structure was so critical it had to be strengthened. It was much cheaper than demolishing. In the following years every local government had plans for the Magasház. It was sold sever-

al times to private companies and bought back. Some wanted to renovate it and make a huge dormitory, some wanted to make an exclusive hotel and apartments. Others wanted to move local government bureaus here. Some involved businesses looked like real masters of property fraud. For several weeks the Magasház was even the property of a 76-year-old retired women, her son “helped” her doing business. Anyway, fact is, that no local government could solve the Magasház-problem.

City council wants now the ghost-tower just to disappear. Demolishing will take more than a year and cost more than 1 billion forints, provided by the Hungarian government. But there are still legal concerns that set back the procedure. Ex-tenants say that living in the Magasház was great. With a population of 800 people, it used to be a little vertical village in the city. It had its own shop, club and even a gym – none of these were typical facilities of buildings erected in the 1970s in Hungary. The city council organized a reunion for ex-tenants in October 2014, since these could be the last days to see the building emerge from the cityscape. But we have heard that several times in the last 25 years...

STILL STANDING 14

Pécs City Guide February 2015

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February 2015 Pécs City Guide

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Dudás-Hajas Szalon Beauty & Hair Pécs, Király utca 18. +36 72 310 440

„Get your Hair, Get your Style” /dudashajasszalon


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