May 2015 / Pécs City Guide

Pécs City Guide May 2015 / Issue 04 / Free

INSIDE

Flea market, Open cellars, Sweet outposts

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spring and early summer offers. The goal is still the same: offering local and self produced goods, while maintaining creative and modern Hungarian cuisine.

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Contents&Co

4 In Brief New museum opens, New market hall, Expanding UP?

6 Feature Buy and sell

8 Drink&Dine Sweet outposts, N-Eozin

12 To Do Csík Zenekar, L!ft, Open cellars in Palkonya

14 Essentials Trams of future past

Pécs City Guide May 2015 The free, insert magazine of Dunántúli Napló in English.

Editor-in-chief/Publisher: László Póré Managing editor: Ervin Gűth Published by Mediaworks Regionális Kiadó Kft. Baranya Megyei Irodája Sales manager: Gyöngyi Nagy Phone: +36 72 505 060, +36 30 9971 006 E-mail: gyongyi.nagy@ mediaworks.hu Printed by Print Média, Pécs ISSN 08659133

HI

, this is the fourth issue of Pécs City Guide magazine and finally I have some editorial help. Our guest writer László Nógrádi, who is an excellent journalist at the daily Dunanátúl Napló, contibuted two articles (Sweet Outposts, Trams of future past) and I’m very happy to have him on board. Hopefully he finds time to write something in the next magazine, too. The next issue of Pécs City Guide magazine comes in the second half of June, and will be a summer special. Until then, every comment, idea or recommendation from you is still highly appreciated. Contact us at: info@pecscityguide.com.

Ervin Gűth, editor

Tesco Makay street row of shops​ (72/954-170) ​www.goldian.hu​

May 2015 Pécs City Guide

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In Brief

BRAND NEW EXHIBITION MAKE IT ABOUT VERY OLD TIMES DOUBLE

Sopianae - Roman Artifacts in Baranya is the title of a new, permanent exhibition in Káptalan street, that exposes the head of an original Marcus Aurelius bronze statue, excavated close to Pécs.

The latest attraction of Káptalan street (a.k.a. Museum street that is a well deserved nickname since it has 6 museums) was long overdue. For several years there was no permanent exhibition dealing with the Roman ages of Pécs and Baranya county. Although there are a lot of things to show and the Roman heritage has several architectural marks in the region. But the lack of resources and the weak financial background

of the museums in Pécs didn’t make it possible to re-open the historical museum at Széchenyi square after its closure in 2009.

The head of Marcus Aurelius is a must, but there are several other interesting objects like reliefs, small statues, and a cart as well. This new exhibition with interactive elements is great, but still you can only see a small part of the Roman treasures found close to Pécs.

NEW MARKET HALL

Three billion forints could be spent on a new market hall, the building process could start as soon as this autumn.

City council members agreed that it is time for building a new market hall. An international architectural design contest is expected to be announced in end of May. According to the plan of the city’s chief architect and the architects’

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Pécs City Guide May 2015

committee the new market hall will be a neighbour of the old one, that will be demolished as soon as the new one starts operation.

The key concept is that the new facility should be much more then a market hall, with other services, too.

Hungarian prime minister Viktor Orbán announced last month in Pécs that the government is willing to support the University of Pécs if they want and are able to double the number of international students learning in the city.

When Viktor Orbán visited Pécs in April he did not only meet mayor Zsolt Páva, but had some time to have a conversation with rector József Bódis as well. The main element of their meeting was the further development of UP. Like we already covered in the April issue, 2500 international students are currently studying in Pécs. This number could be doubled in only 5 years, or even earlier if the University of Pécs gets support from the government.

To double the number of international students in Pécs several improvements are needed, regarding the number of educators, and of course infrastructure development is also necessary. We hope to hear from factual plans in the near future.

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MAJOR DEVELOPMENTS AT THE ORFŰ MILL MUSEUM

The Orfű Mill Museum has been renovated and expanded with new spectaculars under a cross-border programme.

As Balázs Náfrádi, representative of the Malomkő (Millstone) Foundation explained, “with the project implemented jointly with the Croatian partners, we have not only undertaken an exemplary form of cooperation, but also enabled the Orfű Watermill with an enormous heritage, ethnograph-

ic and touristic value to welcome guests appropriately.”

The watermill located near the Orfű Kistó lake, in scenic surroundings, is currently the only still operating watermill in Hungary. Last year, the internal and external equipment and facilities of the mill have all been ren-

ovated and restored. Brick cladding was constructed in the mill courtyard, the moat of the mill was fortified, and the top of the mill was renovated. During the implementation of the project, sustainability and experience have been key factors. The aim was to ensure that the open-air mill museum can become an operable, lively location, an appropriate site for inclusion, learning, the representation of traditional spiritual values and ethnographic treasures, and also for museum education sessions.

During the course of the project, a niche professional research was also conducted: the study of György Balázs titled “Mills in Baranya” summarises the history of mills in the county.

The project titled „Miller’s route” and the identifier HUHR/1101/1.2.3/0012 is implemented under the framework of the Hungary - Croatia IPA Cross-Border Cooperation Programme 2007-2013, with the funding of 167.200 euros.

May 2015 Pécs City Guide

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Feature

BUY AND SELL

This place is legendary. You can’t understand Pécs, if you haven’t seen the marketplace with your own eyes. Don’t hesitate, late spring is the best time to visit the flea market of Pécs.

Markets around the world have always beeen the essential of their city. They are living places where you can learn a lot about the people. In Hungarian the name of Sunday (vasárnap) is derived from the phrase vásár nap (market day). The explanation for this is quite simple: for centuries the biggest markets were organized on Sundays.

This already shows us how important markets and marketplaces used to be. And not only in economical terms. Although, this changed a lot, and the marketplace of Pécs lost a lot in competitiveness, but going to the flea market is still a very popular activity on the last day of the week.

And what can you find here? From used bikes to brand new computer parts, from baby clothings to

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Pécs City Guide May 2015

hardcore porn DVDs, from toys to antiquities you can get almost everything. But there are several other reasons to visit the venue. For example typical Hungarian market foods are available here. Like lángos and palacsinta.

Also sausages and candy floss. Actually this is the only place in town where you can get candy floss for sure.

But for the healthy stuff: when in season a very good supply of produces can be found here.

Also, a lot of people don’t come here to do some Sunday shopping but for the atmosphere.

Since the atmosphere should be the first thing coming to your mind when thinking of the flea market of Pécs.

Imagine that it’s early in the morning, a little bit cold - even if it’s sum-

Sometimes it’s hard to decide if that’s something for sale or some more pebble on the ground mer already. But the marketplace is already buzzing. And yes, you have to get here early if you really want to catch a bargain. That’s something regulars do know for sure.

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Feature

MARKET NUMBERS

115,000m2 total area

3,300m2 flea market

18,000 The staff arrives here around 4am while the sellers show up and are standing in line an hour before official opening time. That is 5am.

Competition for the best places is fierce. It can even happen that a seller arriving too late doesn’t get a place at all. Who comes to the

flea market to sell something? Very different people. You can see here the rich and the poor. Mainly amateurs but professional salesmen too.

Casual sellers who just want to get rid of their stuff are not always easy to identify, but one thing is for sure: never miss haggling.

visitors each Sunday

100% full

2015.05.10-2015.05.31.

May 2015 PĂŠcs City Guide

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Drink&Dine

SWEET OUTPOSTS Family-owned and operated for generations, most of the local cake shops are great examples of hospitality with a personal touch. Delicious desserts can not only be found downtown, the outskirts also have their sweet spots – we have sampled three of them.

Magda Cukrászda

Generations of confectioners building a reputation way beyond the town borders: Magda Cukrászda (Kandó Kálmán str 4) is worth the visit. The shop, located just across the street from Művész Presszó is not at all huge, but the selection of desserts is convincing – we have tried an orange ganache piece and a triple chocolate slice, both of them delightful. Prices start at around HUF200 for simpler pieces going above HUF500 for complex creations. Whole cake orders and low-carb options are also a big part of their business, while ice cream variations (dozens in rotation) are also attracting masses all day. No wonder that the family business earned numerous trade awards – their Italian coffee also collected valuable prizes.

Kovács Cukrászda

Kertváros is considered as the end of the world for some inner city locals but they could not be more wrong. Kovács Cukrászda (Nagy I. str 37) is only one sign that loveable places can be found even among the tower blocks. The interior design is nothing stunning and the selection is mostly traditional, but wide enough to serve all kinds of tastes – and their prices are also sanely set. Fruit-based options and chocolate variations, ice creams by the dozen, wedding cakes or specialties – they have standards and surprises as well. One of the latter are the Zila-cakes, that boast a liquid filling inside a slice – fun to see and eat as well.

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Pécs City Guide May 2015

Trüffel Cukrászda

A busy traffic bypass for a location is not the only reason why Trüffel (Hársfa str 34) is never empty – parking can even be a challenge nearby. The shop opened only some years ago but soon became an essential stop for sweets. Their Napoleons (puff pastry, custard and cream – they go by krémes in Hungarian) are in the top league, but other confectioneries are also made with passion. A huge part of the assortment (with reasonable prices for different budgets) is the sugar-free versions of favourites, but new creations are also presented regularly. Their selection of ice creams also show Trüffel’s devotion to modernization.

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May 2015 PĂŠcs City Guide

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Drink&Dine

INTERNATIONAL BURGER DAY IS COMING

N-EOZIN HAS GRILLED FOODS, LOCAL WINES AND A FANTASTIC VIEW There was little to complain about the venue last year, and luckily the view is almost the same, but everything else is bigger and little bit better now at the re-opened N-Eozin Grill Terrace.

For decades Northern Castle Wall Promenade was an untamed jungle, but in 2009 the already renovated park became new tenants.

Since then almost every springtime brought a new concept to this venue, and N-Eozin seems to be one of the tenants that last more then just one summer. And this is great since they bring things forward.

N-Eozin can be accessed via Esze Tamás street (opposite of the bastion) and is open every day from noon until midnight (weekends until 2am). The first thing that you see is it is in next to a lovely park, and the second that it got much bigger than last year. (If you were lucky to see it last year.) This also means that there are a little less greens. Nothing to worry about since the awesome view compensates everything.

The concept didn’t really change grilled foods are the main attraction here. We tried their hamburger

(HUF1200) and the grilled chicken wings (HUF1400). Both were quite okay. In case of the burger the bun is the weakest link, and the meat was a little bit stiff, but not overdone. For the chicken wings: I couldn’t find a weak point, all the seven chicken thighs were soft inside and crispy

Still the best view of the Magasház

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Pécs City Guide May 2015

outside. They were not of top quality, but the seasoning and the proper cooking process made them a little bit more than okay. And oh they are a little bit hot, despite this is not stated on the menu card.

I think N-Eozin has almost every drink you could wish for at a venue like this. There are several local wines at a very affordable price.

It’s not hard to see that N-Eozin is going to be a summer favourite again, and there is nothing wrong with that.

May 28th marks a very special day. Unfortunately it is not a national holiday (yet!) in Hungary, and a lot of people even do not know of its existence. Others might say, that International Hamburger Day is just another fake event, a promotional phony happening. But you can show them otherwise by celebrating the proper way (for ideas to get the best burgers in Pécs see our April issue available at pecscityguide.com/magazine).

Also you could get one at Tex-Mex, since their special burger, that used to be the best burger in town, will be available again, but only on this special day.

The 5 Best* wine cards 1. Nappali (Király str 23-25)

2. Kalamáris (Rákóczi str 30)

3. Jókai Bisztró (Jókai sqr 6)

4. Susogó (Szőlő str 54)

5. Zierfandler (Hunyadi János str 52) *Editor’s opinion, based on price, quality, and reliability.

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To Do

RECYCLED OBJECTS, THOUGHTS, AND ARTS The L!ft Group, that is a working group of Hungarian students from the University of Pécs, has a new exhibition at Nick Art&Design Gallery.

The main concept and the cohering element of the exhibition is the recycling of different objects, thoughts, and even the works of other artists. No other boundaries.

That’s why there is a huge variety in the exposed objects.

The seven young artists use different methods and materials to showcase their understanding of recycling. We see plastic bags forming a huge map of Europe, plastic bottles being the building parts of a spaceship. And we do see a huge pile of shit. Yes, a big piece of golden crap, that is said to be the only remaining product of the huge horse that had its home at Széchenyi sqr for several months. You see, there is lot of criticism going on...

Until May 31; Nick Art&Design (Király str 1) Tue-Sun: 10am-8pm. Free.

CELLARS OPEN IN PALKONYA

CSÍK ZENEKAR

Hungarian folk music band Csík Zenekar, founded in 1988 is famous for being the bridge between the old and the new. How do they do that?

Their concerts always start and end with traditional and authentic songs while in-between there is always room for some contemporary pop music, swing and jazz, and even classical tones.

When playing folk music they aren’t restricted to play only Hun-

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garian folk music but other nationalities’ music styles are welcome.

The high standards and quality of their activity have been acknowledged by several honours and prizes, such as Eminent Art Group, Young Masters of Folk Art, Fonogram Prize awarded by the Hungarian Association of Record Producers, and several gold and platinum records.

May 25, 8pm; Pirogranit sqr (Zsolnay Cultural Quarter); HUF1990.

There is some bigger happening in the Villány wine region almost every month, but Palkonya is famous for this one. The village - that was European Cultural Village in 2007 - opens up it’s cellars for the 21st time on May 24. The Open Cellars at Whitsun is a traditional gathering of wine lovers from around the country, with wine tastings, cultural programmes, children’s programmes and horsedrawn carriage rides.

For the tickets: you can taste 10 different wines for the entrance fee.

Getting to Palkonya is easy and cheap if you are willing to take the train.

May 24; Noon-8pm; Palkonya; HUF2200. More: villanyiborvidek.hu

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Essentials

TRAMS OF FUTURE PAST

Not a hitch in traffic, but a deliberately parked piece of history – a tram carriage in a pedestrian street in Pécs stands as a symbol of an era that may never return but feels just too good to let go of.

Pécs once used to be a town with moderate public transport: the quiet little place was fitted with the first rail lines in 1913. The tram map always remained basic, the main line ran from POTE (a military school in those times) to Zsolnay district, with a sideline from Széchenyi square to the main railway station and another branch near Budai district to a local train station. The tram era lasted 47 years in Pécs until the 1950s when cheap gasoline and upcoming buses took over. However outdated, the last ride was a local celebration on August 31. 1960, with hundreds escorting the slowly waddling streetcar.

Nostalgia for the good days when you had to give way in Király street to the rattling carriages still lives in locals and even has some physical manifestations. Maybe you too have found the conserved segment of the original tracks in Jókai square and even the memorial plaque near Színház square. Well, that was

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Pécs City Guide May 2015

about all of it until 2013, when the centenary came.

Although plans for a new tram system surface around every fourfive years (especially in election campaigns) reason says that Pécs will not find the funds for such an enormous development any soon. So instead of waiting for the future, some local transportation fans brought back a piece of the past. PTKE (a club for local transport) borrowed a vintage carriage from Budapest and the renovated streetcar was placed at the end of Ferencesek street. The yellow time machine was built around the same age as the local ones (that shamefully passed away in scrapyards) and served for more than seven decades.

Brought back to its best shape possible the yellow metal hut now houses a mini-exhibition on the history of trams in Pécs. Selected artworks

can also be seen and even a tiny but lovely café was started, but brewing was recently shut down due to differences between the tenants and the managing company.

Although the uncanny sight of a stationery streetcar from a century ago became an instant favour-

There is a chance that the carriage will have to leave soon ite with locals and tourists alike, its future is not clear. The originally planned two-year lease is nearing its end so there is a chance that the carriage will have to leave.

So catch the immobile tram of Pécs and take a unique ride with a piece of history. Even more so unique as that the carriage is standing still, you are the one to move.

But it is worth the effort.

László Nógrádi

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May 2015 Pécs City Guide

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PÉCSI SZALON

Nagyszínpad 16:00 16:15-18:00 18:00-18:30 18:30-19:15 19:15-20:00 19:15 20:15-21:00 22:00-23:00

2015. 05. 15.

PÉCSI SZALON

Kapunyitás CS.I.T. Majális ünepélyes megnyitó Mongooz and the Magnet Tomatoes Attack Osztálytársak voltunk Paddy and the Rats

PÉCSI PANNONIA

Retro terem 22:00-03:00 Dj Albrecht

PÉCSI PANNONIA

Retro terem 22:00-03:00 Asterix live Band

PÉCSI RADLER

Party csarnok 22:00-03:00 Greg S

PÉCSI RADLER RA

PÉCSI SÖR

Színpad 16:00-23:00 Profilok zenekar

MALÁTA

Sörkert 18:30-19:30 DZSIIZA X EN.I.EL 18:30 20:00-21:30 Erős Pista (RHCHP Tribute) 23:00 Sörház Retro Party - DJ Bogár

Party csarnok 22:00-03:00 Greg S

PÉCSI SÖR

Színpad 13:00-14:00 Tour de Pécs Radler Futam 14:30-16:00 Hófehérke - Buboréka Bábszínház 16:00-18:30 16:00 Gyermek Disco 19:00-23:00 PMD Blus band

MALÁTA

Pé

örf csi S

őzde

Pécsi Szalon Nagyszínpad Pécsi Sör Színpad Pannonia Sörcsarnok Pécsi Radler Party Csarnok Ledfal kivetítő a „Gasztro utcában” Kijárat

Bejárat-Kijárat

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Sörtúra infó

Látogató -Info

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Maláta Sörkert

2015. 05. 16.

Nagyszínpad 13:00-14:00 Mecsek Country Zenekar és Timeless Linedance CC 14:00-15:30 PTE Táncoló egyetem 16:00 - 16:45 Junior Band 17:00-17:45 Tom White és barátai 18:00-19:00 18:00 Dübörgő Wattacukrock 19:15-20:00 Brass Dance 20:15-21:15 Brass Band 22:00-23:00 Kowalsky meg a vega

Maláta Sörkert Klubszipad

Sörkert 18:30-19:30 20:00-21:30 23:00

P.H.D. Nihil Chips Psycho Mutants Sörház Party