Summer Special 2015 - Pécs City Guide

PĂŠcs City Guide Summer 2015 / Issue 05 / Free

R ME N M S U I T IO ED

INSIDE

Wakeboarding, Best museums Bistro inferno, Zsolnay-legend + much more

Contents&Co

Contents

In Brief 4 Magasház gets new attraction, Wakeboard tracks open 6 Starpark opens, City’s free wifi is more popular than ever, R.I.P. Pécs football Features 8 Getting around 10 Best museums 12 Pécs wine region 14 A day in Orfű Drink&Dine 16 Bistro inferno 18 Grill it real good 20 Lompos Uszkár 22 István Pince To Do 24 Out of town 26 Yvaral, Ulupuh, Turkish Youth Philharmonic Orchestra 28 Europa Cantat, Antiquity markets, Running night Essentials 30 The Zsolnay heritage

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HI

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, this is the fifth issue of Pécs City Guide magazine and we are very happy to be available this time on 32 pages. We are almost as thick as a real magazine should be. Right now, we think that this is a one time attraction only, but we will keep in mind how good it feels to

hold so many pages in our hands. We didn’t double number of pages for the feeling, we did it, because this is a summer special. Which also means, that

Pécs City Guide/Summer 2015 The free, insert magazine of Dunántúli Napló in English.

Editor-in-chief/Publisher: László Póré Managing editor: Ervin Gűth Contributor: László Nógrádi Published by Mediaworks Regionális Kiadó Kft. Baranya Megyei Irodája Sales manager: Gyöngyi Nagy Phone: +36 72 505 060, +36 30 9971 006 E-mail: gyongyi.nagy@mediaworks.hu Printed by Érdi Rózsa Nyomda, Érd ISSN 08659133

there won’t be new issues until September.

Meanwhile you can follow us on Facebook for updates about Pécs., and like usually you can still contact us at: info@pecscityguide.com.

Thanks for your attention, and see you soon.

Ervin Gűth, editor

Summer 2015 Pécs City Guide

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In Brief

PÉCS’S FAMOUS ARTISTS PORTRAYED AROUND THE MAGASHÁZ

CRAZY: TWO WAKEBOARD TRACKS TO OPEN IN JUNE Finding spots for water sports in Pécs isn’t an easy task. It used to be impossible. And what’s happening now? Two wakeboard tracks are going to open this summer, only a few of kilometres away from each other.

World famous Pécs borns Victor Vasarely and Marcel Breuer accompany the poet Sándor Weöres on the walls that protect the Magasház.

The painting is the pilot project of civic initiative.

It doesn’t seem like the Magasház is getting closer to its end: even the city is backing the civic project that is going to make the walls built around the uninhabited residential tower prettier. The first step of the initiative is ready now. Paintings of three Pécs-related artists were completed in the first weeks of June.

It’s not an accident that Pécs born artist Victor Vasarely (Győző Vásárhelyi) is one of the firsts to get a portray on the walls that are going to act like a wall of fame. Vasarely (left) was the leading figure of the op-art movement (see more on the Vasarely Museum in Pécs on p10) and an advocate of the idea of colourful cities. He hated blank walls and wanted them to display art.

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Marcel Breuer, one of the leading figures of the Bauhaus-movement is pictured on the right side of the painting. This is not his most well known pic, and it’s a little bit confusing to see the architecture and design genius with the Magasház in the background.

In the middle of the triumvirate literary editor and poet Sándor Weöres is portrayed, who learned, lived and worked in Pécs for a decade.

Like said, this painting is only the first, pilot project of a civic organization and more will follow soon. Street art paintings related to Pécs, about people with strong ties to the city are expected to pop up in the coming months.

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

Vasas and Tüskésrét are districts of Pécs and quite close to downtown. What they have in common is that they both will have professional wakeboard tracks soon. Yes, you read it right: two different wakeboard tracks, and both are going to open this summer. Crazy, isn’t it?

Some years back citizens of Pécs would never dream of having the chance to choose from wakeboard track, even if assumed they know what a wakeboard track is.

The two facilities will have slightly different services to offer: in Tüskésrét there will be a running track around the lake while the other will have a horse riding centre.

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Summer 2015 Pécs City Guide

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In Brief

STARGAZERS WELCOME

FREE WI-FI NETWORK USAGE AT ALL TIME HIGH

Civilization is washing out the evening sky. City lights around the world make it nearly impossible to observe the night sky in its natural beauty. That is the point where dark sky parks, like the newly opened Zselic Starry Sky Park come to help.

Light pollution has a wide ranging effect on ecology and potential psychological effects on humans.

Today only 5% of the night sky is as observable as 150 years ago. Many children in the developed world never get the opportunity to see a sky full of stars and the Milky Way.

But in Zselic, that is only 1 hour’s drive away from Pécs you get not only the chance to see the sky in its beauty, but the star park has several interesting facilities, too. They organize regular stargazing events, but you have to book in advance.

More info: zselicicsillagpark.hu

R.I.P. PÉCS FOOTBALL

Fans of the local football team PMFC buried the their hope in middle of the football field. The symbolic funeral went viral.

The misery, that some still do call Hungarian football life, continues with sometimes ridiculous episodes. The latest gag: the Hungarian Football Association’s to refuse granting a licence to several football teams for the next season.

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This means that the professional football team of Pécs can’t play in the 1st league. It’s still not clear if Pécs could start the next season in the second or third league, also there isn’t even public what really lead to this decision.

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

5 years ago only 70-80 people connected to the city’s free WiFi network. Despite the fact that 3G and 4G is getting cheaper, today 2000-2200 daily users are registered.

A lot of cities offer free Wi-Fi connectivity to tourists and citizens all around the world, and Pécs started its service more than a decade ago. Citizens didn’t really use it, mainly tourists connected, because they had no other possibilities. This changed in recent years a little bit and locals connect much more often than they used to.

The city’s Wi-Fi provider told us that right now there are 10 public hot-spots available, almost all of them in downtown. They are called HotSpotPecs or SpotPecs@ekf2010 (in the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter). They offer a sluggish speed up to 0.5Mb/s, so you can forget HD streams, but video calls or internet radio stations work flawlessly.

Connecting is easy, you just have to login as a guest. Unfortunately, the welcome screen has no English version and does not offer much useful information neither for tourist, nor for citizens.

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Summer 2015 PĂŠcs City Guide

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Feature

HOP ON

Walks are great if you have a lot of time to roam around the city.

But there are scenarios when walking isn’t enough. Don’t just get into a car, there are plenty of better options for sightseeing.

Kisvonat

The most traditional way is by train - even though this one has no tracks. A diesel powered tractor pulling carriages through roads and pedestrian areas alike, the Kisvonat or Dotto road train is available in season every day from 10am to 5pm.

The round trips leave from Széchenyi square on the hour, the 50 minutes trip costs HUF1400 and visits most of the attractions including the Cathedral, Király street and Zsolnay.

The moderate speed is a local specialty that gives you the unique experience of legally holding up traffic!

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Cabriobus

Pécs is sadly not busy enough for a hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus service, but the closest option is nice enough. A chopped off roof and a large route including locations even far away from downtown will make this service the ideal for taking quick glimpses at not only the common tourist sites but most of PTE’s buildings and even touching Tettye, the Zoo and the train station. An hour long trip costs HUF490, rides leave from the top part of Széchenyi square every two hours from 11am to 5pm.

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

Segway

Still an astounding sight in Hungary, the novelty scooters guarantee an unique way of seeing the town... or rather making sure that everybody sees you seeing the town.

Other plus factors include that the scooters can go everywhere, where only bicycles or pedestrians are allowed, so the HUF6900 ticket for a 1-1,5 hour ride is a reasonable price.

Not to mention that professional guides accompany you all the way from the office at Irgalmasok street, where tours start daily from 10am to 3pm.

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Public bikes

As Pécs is really bike-able, it is a shame nobody invested in a wide public bicycle rental system so far.

Smaller rental businesses start and disappear almost every season with stronger ones keeping on. One of these has a twist: the e-Mobility shop in Kórház square (open: weekdays 9am-6pm, Saturdays 9am1pm) offers bikes for rent but some

of the fleet are equipped with electric drive also. Regular bikes go for HUF300/hour while powered ones cost 500, daily to weekly rentals are also available for longer stays.

Flightseeing

With a full service airport near Pécs, taking a glimpse on the area

from above is also an option. Aviator Team (repuljvelunk.hu) is one of the companies with multiple small planes offering 15 minutes flights from HUF18.000 - a trip like that leaves from Pécs-Pogány Airport and takes you around the TV tower. It is even more fun to share with friends: 3 persons pay HUF25.000 altogether and making selfies is a lot easier with their assistance.

The best way for sightseeing: Segway Pécs. The Segway Pécs is a tourism company organizing exciting Segway tours both in Pécs and the region.

7621 Pécs, Irgalmasok u. 16. | Mon-Sun: 10am-6pm | +36-30/ 327-3666 | info@segwaypecs.hu Summer 2015 Pécs City Guide

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Feature

THE MUST

MUSEU

These exhibitions and museums are popular for a reason. You shouldn’t miss any of the following since they can tell you a lot about the cultural heritage of the city.

Cella Septichora

No construction works in downtown Pécs can be completed without coming across a cemetery or a church. A history dating back almost 2000 years guarantees that. The Early Christian tombs have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000.

The latest and most contemporary addition is the visitors’ centre of Cella Septichora. The name is from the biggest chapel of seven choirs. It was excavated several times and always reburied since there was no money to make it accessible. It’s not only a museum but the venue for cultural events, concerts, lectures and temporary exhibitions. The Peter-Paul burial chamber, the pitcher burial chamber and the octagonal burial chamber are other main attractions.

Examine the illuminated entrance door by night since it is made of a

light-transmitting concrete, that is a Hungarian invention.

Sétatér, Phone: +36 72 224 755. Web: pecsorokseg.hu Open: Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tickets: HUF1700/900.

Csontváry Museum

Famous and also huge works of eccentric painter Csontváry like Baalbek (1906) and Solitary Cedar (1907) can be found in a neo-Renaissance building close to Cella Septichora. It’s not just the indefinable style of this eccentric man’s paintings – verging on post-impressionism expressionism, but always following what he termed ‘the way of the sun’.The fragile ex-pharmacist Csontváry was following a ‘mystic vision’ that took him over Europe and the Middle East. You may also recognise depictions of Mostar, Ath-

Tap Factory

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Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

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ens, Taormini and Dalmatia. The collection is divided to early sketches and portraits, works created during 1902-1903, and the monumental masterpieces. Some works will be exhibited in Budapest for several months, and taken away from Pécs in the summer, but right now we don’t have more information.

Janus Pannonius str 11 Phone: +36 72 310 544 Web: pecsimuzeumok. hu. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tickets: HUF1500/750

Vasarely Museum

Victor Vasarely himself compiled and donated the best collection of his works to Pécs. The artist left his hometown at a very young age and returned only decades later. In 1976, he created an exhibition that introduces his whole career from the artist’s perspective. Paintings, installations, sculptures. The museum was renovated in 2010, and during the reconstruction the works were put on display in several locations abroad. The creations of the master of op-art were granted proper respect, as any regular visitor to the museum would be able to judge.

The museum reopened with the addition of two miniature exhibitions.

Works by the artist’s wife, Claire, and by his son, Jean-Pierre, are on show here, as well as the screening of a film showing Victor Vasarely’s visit to Pécs, in a separate room. The Vasarely Museum is one of Pécs’ most popular collections, with more than 2 million visitors since its opening. The artist’s Until Sept Káptalan str 3 Phone: +36 72 514 040 Web: pecsimuzeumok.hu.

Open: Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Tickets: HUF2000/1000.

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T-SEE

UMS

PÉCS

Zsolnay Festival

The Two Zsolnay Collections

the US-based Hungarian collector.

Originally the collection had almost 600 items, but Mr. Gyugyi is still active and his latest contribution was a group of 44 items in June 2015.

Zsolnay Museum Káptalan str 2 Phone: +36 72 514 045 Web: pecsimuzeumok.hu. Open: Tue-Sun: 10am6pm. Tickets: HUF1500/750 Gugyi Collection Zsolnay Cultural Quarter Phone: +36 20 235 4722 Web: gyugyi.hu Open: Mon-Sun 10am6pm. Tickets: HUF1400/700.

(See more about the Zsolnay heritage on p30.)

ART INSPIRED BY DREAMS MASTERPIECES OF CHAGALL

Chagall

marc(1887-1985)

Pots, vases, tiles. All of them made in Pécs and sold worldwide. No wonder that several museums in the city are dedicated to the iconic manufacturer family of ceramics and porcelain, the Zsolnays.

The Zsolnay Museum is situated downtown in Káptalan str 2, and besides the exhibition that shows displays the works of the Zsolnay Factory in chronological order, the

building is also worth a few words: it’s the oldest town house in Pécs.

The collection tells the story of the Zsolnay family itself, how the firm was started up, and how techniques were passed down from generation to generation.

The Gyugyi Collection in Zsolnay Cultural Quarter in the Art Nouveau Sikorski House was inaugurated in September 2010. The former home of the Zsolnay-family has been renovated, ant its content was provided by László Gyugyi,

April 24th, 2015 – October 31st, 2015 Janus Pannonius Museum; M artyn Museum (P écs, K áptalan Street 4.)

Marc Chagall (1887-1985) is one of the best and versatile worldwide-known artists of the 20th century. The exhibition offers subjects of the Bible, as well as litographies belongs to the Odussey of Homer; plans and sketches designed for the reconstruction to the ceiling of the Paris Opera House. Visitors can enjoy the illustrations created an designed for the windows of the Hadassah University Hospital (Jerusalem).

Summer 2015 Pécs City Guide

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Feature

LOCALIZE IT

The Pécs wine region has an almost continuous and a more than thousand-year-old tradition of wine-making. Unfortunately only 10% of its 7000 hectares available for the cultivation of grapes are currently used. Can the region become a big player again?

Villány and Szekszárd are two of the most well known Hungarian wine regions. With neighbours like these no wonder that the Pécs wine region is a somewhat forgotten, but this was not always the case. For centuries wine production and trade always played a huge role in the economy of Pécs. This is not true anymore: only 10% of the 7000 hectares available for the cultivation of grapes are currently used.

The climate and terrain of Mecsek hills and the surroundings was al-

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ways great for wine-grape agriculture. Ever since Celts and Romans settled down and lived here, people produced grapes and made wines too. Several archaeological discoveries in the city (and its vicinity) gives us evidences. In the Middle Ages, the abbeys of Pécs were the main actors of wine culture. The occupation of the Ottoman Turks enriched its history by introducing the Kadarka variety which remained dominant till the phylloxera plague. There have been several dead-ends in the histo-

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

ry as well: in the 18th there were unsuccessful experiments to introduce the Aszú wine-making technique in the region. All along from the first Wine Act in 1893 till the period after the Second World War, this wine region and the neighbouring areas jointly formed the Villány-Pécs wine region. From the late 19th century a wine-making and wine-trader school operated in the city, so in 1949 the Pécs Experimental Branch of the Research Institute of Viticulture already had foundations to build upon.

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WINESPIRATION

The institute established a world-acclaimed grape gene bank, and several new varieties were born in Pécs, like grapes called zenit, zengő, zeus, zefír and zéta.

The largest single vineyard is still maintained by the institute, while other lands have since been consumed by the expanding city.

At the same time, there are successful and modern wineries in

several other municipalities of the wine region (Mohács, Szajk, Hosszúhetény, Mozsgó) and private wine-making is also significant.

Fortunately a lot of small to middle sized wineries are returning to the Zirfandel variety that is only cultivated in this region in Hungary. The variety can be a beautiful base for dry and sweet dessert wines, too.

The vinitouristic exhibition WineSpiration opened in September 2013, in the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter. The interactive project where the more than thousandyear-old traditions of wine-making are on display shows the traditions, merits of the wine region of Pécs. All presented in a creative and thoughtful way with state-of-the-art methods.

Winespiration is a unique initiative, where the vinotheque, the label design workshop, the wine vault and interactive art exhibitions, installations fit perfectly together. It is not an everyday experience for the visitors to enter the glass house. They can get to know the colourful world of wine and the wine producers of the Pécs-Mecsek Wine Route.

The different tools and devices of wine-making are on display, and visitors can create their own wine labels. It’s also perfect place for cultural and gastronomic events.

Winespiration Zsolnay Cultural Quarter Open: Tue-Sat: 10am-6pm.

Web: winespiration.hu.

SCHUNK WINERY Come and taste our wines in our family winery that is only a 10-minute-drive from Pécs.

Try our quality, dry red wines, refreshing white wines and easy rosé wines. We serve snacks and also offer meals to our tastings.

Hosszúhetény, Morolo u. 52. | Phone: +36 (30) 9468-920 | Web: schunkpince.com Summer 2015 Pécs City Guide

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A DAY IN ORFŰ Every decent settlement needs some body of water for the public. Some have a river flowing through, others were built near lakes - Pécs is somewhat an exception. But we have a substitute just across the hill: Orfű.

The location is easily available: a 20 minute drive or buses that run by the dozens get anyone there quickly. Bicycles are also an option thanks to the scenic bike path through the Mecsek. The route starts from the Magyarürög part of Pécs and winds through forests and clearings, making the 18 km ride a fun exercise with a proper bike.

Once there, Orfű offers a relaxed mixture of nature, hospitality and recreation. The four lakes have nice beaches, fishing spots and invite all kinds of sports ac-

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tivities like kayaking or windsurfing - look for the Aktív Víziturisztikai Központ (Kayak-Canoe Club, Széchenyi tér 5.) where you can rent all sorts of vessels. If you want to catch fish, keep in mind that a license is required on all the lakes and can be purchased by the day - just ask Tourinform in Széchenyi sqr 1.

For serious swimming or paddling around in the shallow end a number of beaches wait to choose from. Kis-tó Strand (Kossuth str 46., cluborfu.hu) is a nicely maintained natural lakeside spot

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

where a daily ticket costs HUF900 but an afternoon entry is only 700 from 15.00. Many locals and youngsters prefer the open beach in the Northwest corner of Pécsi tó, where the only rules are the unwritten ones and even the doggies can take a dip. The relaxed surroundings are nicely complemented by Szomjas Vándor Büfé - the lakeside snack bar not only represents the often missed traditions of decent and reasonably priced no nonsense food but also covers the area with free wifi connection.

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The biggest boy in town is the Aquapark (Dollár str 34., aquapark.hu) a modern water fun park with multiple pools, slides and other amusements.

A day ticket will cost you HUF2000 but afternoon tickets are also available from 15.00 for 1500.

If the giant slides sound too high, go below: Mecsek Háza (Barlangkutató u. 1., mecsekhaza.hu)

offers cave exploration among other nature experiences. A HUF4980 ticket will provide an expert guide and all the equipment you might need for the underground exploration. Prepare for some crawling in mud and confined spaces and the wonders of the caves totally worth the effort.

If you are into traditions and folklore, Malom Múzeum (Füzes Antal sétány 3., orfuivizimalom.hu) is worth a visit. To see a fully operating water mill from inside for a HU650 ticket is a bargain. And they also sell handmade bread, baked on the spot! Levendula Porta (Petőfi str 6., orfu-diakszallas.hu) is another restored piece of history where an ancient barn was turned into a guest house. They offer accommodation for groups and families introducing their guests to the local traditional gastronomy and culture as well.

Eating out is a must, although not all the businesses live up to the expectations of the 21st century remember that Orfű is a hybrid of an old village, hundreds of vacation houses and tourist attractions.

But honest and devoted hospitality can also be found in local restaurants, the kind of chefs and owners that do not strive for a gastronomical revolution but for satisfied returning guests. One good example is Muskátli Vendéglő (Széchenyi sqr 13., orfumuskatli.hu) that based its business on a traditional Hungarian kitchen with some modern touches.

Hills and lakes, folklore and gastronomy, sunbathing and sweet laziness, swimming and water sports, hiking and biking, caving and horse riding, fishing and hunting, traditional events and music festivals: ORFŰ awaits you with thousand more possibilities to spice up your life.

Leave your worries behind and let Orfű’s colors recharge you!

Event highlights close to and in Orfű: • • • • • • • • •

27th June – Midsummer Fire Jumping – www.kovacsszenaja.hu 18th July – Long Distance Riding Contest – www.orfu.hu 31st July – 2 August – Motorcycle rider’s meetup in Abaliget – www.abaliget.hu 1st August – Orfű Day and Lake Orfű Show Running – www.orfu.hu, www.melittase.hu 9th August – II. OrfűFitt Pécsi lake round and cross swimming – www.orfufitt.hu 10-15th August – EFOL – 22nd European Foresters’ Orienteering Championships – www.efol.eu/2015 20th August – St. Stephen’s Day – New bread celebration at the – www.orfu.hu 22-23rd August – I. Abaliget Folk and Rock Festival – www.abaliget.hu 28-30th August – Compass Sailing Days – www.compassmagazin.hu

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12-13rd September – XI. Orfű Voluta Dragon Boat Festival – www.pkkc.uw.hu, www.orfufitt.hu

Summer 2015 Pécs City Guide

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Drink&Dine

BISTRO INFERNO

‘Au Bistro’ by Jean Béraud

It is spreading like some kind of gastro-epidemic. And yes, you can get sick of it. The last time we counted them already 10 venues had the add-on ‘bistro’ in their name. But does everybody really know what that should stand for?

No, it is not true that it happened quickly. The process became visible about 5-6 years ago in Budapest, when almost every new restaurant became a bistro, too. Like almost all the trends, this craze arrived in Pécs with some delay, but by now you just can not unsee it. From simple restaurants with Hungarian specialties to those with grilled foods, and even two lángos-makers call themselves a bistro. Owners and managers do really try to get more guests by adding a magic word? And do they succeed? Is this necessary?

Bistros, when they appeared in the 18th century used to be small restaurants, serving moderately priced, simple meals in a modest setting. Home-style cooking with comfort foods. The meaning behind the word shifted several times in the following centuries, and even irritating words like bistronomy have been created. But there is still no agreement what could or should be called a bistro.

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Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

As guests we would be happy to see the usage as a sign or a guarantee of the attributes mentioned above. Unfortunately this is definitely not the case in Pécs.

‘Sure, there is confusion in the heads. Everyone is opening a bistro nowadays’ – says Zoltán Teleky, chef and restaurant owner, and one of the local trendsetters. He opened his first bistro in 2010 in the town, another one followed 3 years later. Teleky is missing in the case of others the thought behind the name. ‘We are determined to deliver fresh, local foods for a reasonable price, and we are trying to do this by adapting to the original Russian mining of the word bistro (быстро=fast)’ – adds Teleky.

The manager of another bistro, Zoltán Mester believes that they do operate a restaurant that is meeting all the criteria to use the addon in their name. ‘We take fresh and quality ingredients seriously, just like the idea of the bistro kitchen. Also, the ambience is easy-going and we strive for a reasonable price tag” – says Mester.

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Summer 2015 PĂŠcs City Guide

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Drink&Dine When to eat grilled foods if not in the heat of the summer? The season is finally here and the city has several good options for carnivores who really love open fires.

GRILL IT REAL GOOD Balkán Bisztró

We wrote already about the coffee and the peka in Balkán Bisztró but somehow we didn’t cover their main attraction, namely, the grilled foods influenced by the Balkans. The owners created unique recipes for the meat mixture used for the cevapcici, pljeskovica and the patty of the famous Balkan Burger. In the weekends they have fish on the menu. Thanks to their indoor grill you can taste all these dishes at any time of the year but without doubt the main season is the summer.

Balkán Bisztró Ferencesek str 8 Open: Mon-Sun: 8am-10pm.

N-Eozin Grill Terrace

We covered the recently re-opened and expanded N-Eozin Grill Terrace in our May issue, but that is not a reason for not listing them here again.

Also, their grilled foods became even somewhat better in recent weeks. Or we were lucky. We tested their burger (HUF1200) again and it’s still a good hunger killing option. Not the best in the city, but again the awesome view and the atmosphere compensates you.

N-Eozin Grill Terrace Esze Tamás str 3 Open: MonThu: 12pm-1am, Fri-Sun: 12pm-2am.

Praktiker Grill Büfé

The only spot listed here that can be found in the outskirts of Pécs and oddly enough in the parking lot of a home improvement store. But it works. The food is great, and for a very affordable price. We wouldn’t recommend everything (the burger is a no go) but their grilled sausages and the pork cuts are great. Shanks and shoulders are a must.

Praktiker Grill Büfé Makay István str 11. Open: Mon-Fri: 8am-8pm, Sat: 9am-8pm.

Tüke Borház

A damn good view. That’s the first thing that should come to your mind when thinking about Tüke Borház. The second: grilled food. Unfortunately the third should be quality local wines but that’s not always the case, so let’s focus on the second one. Quality ingredients like selected pork cuts, steaks and grilled fish, that is a rarity in Pécs. Their appetizers like cracklings and cheese plates are also worth to try.

Tüke Borház Böckh János str 39/2 Open: Mon-Fri: 4pm-10pm, Sat: 12pm-10pm, Sun: 12pm-7pm.

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Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

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Tüke Borház

awaits you with a monumental setting, a beautiful sight of the city and the Croatian mountains, excellent grill foods and wine selection!

Pécs, Böckh János utca 39/2. Phone:+36 20-317-8178 Web: tukeborhaz.hu

Summer 2015 Pécs City Guide

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Drink&Dine

The Ultimate Summer Recipe

LOMPOS USZKÁR IS THE SPRITZER HEAVEN OF PÉCS

This is a seasonal re-opening again, we could only hope for. Lompos Uszkár, that is an open air bar, which closed last fall without any sign of a possible comeback, has now a slightly updated look.

If you would like to listen to some horror stories about Hungarian bureaucracy you should talk to someone who owns or operates some kind of bar, restaurant, tavern or food truck. We don’t know all the details in this particular case but we know that Lompos Uszkár has been closed last year and there was almost no chance for a re-opening. That would have been a shame since it’s been a great place to be.

Fortunately, Lompos Uszkár can show this season again that there is no need for too much hassle if you want to make people happy. Open air, simplicity, some protecting shadow and a good selection of beverages is all you need in the summer. Maybe some interesting background. This spot has them all.

The museum garden (Káptalan str 2) has a superb atmosphere, that is strengthened by a good selection of wines and beers. The managers

of Lompos Uszkár had the idea of dedicating a whole section on their drink menu to spritzers ( fröccs in Hungarian). So, you have the not so obvious choice between more than 20 different types of spritzers. (The ratio of wine and sparkling water varies, but you can go for different ingredients too.)

Also there are a lot of wines just too good to waste them in a long

Chestnut trees, chilling background music and great wines

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drink, and you have to try them on their own. Their price starts at HUF250/dl. Sure, beer fans can get what they want, too.

Chestnut trees, chilling background music, great wines to taste them all: Lompos Uszkár is much more than a pop-up bar and we hope that this fall won’t bring an inevitable end to the place.

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

LECSÓ is an all time favourite in Hungary and its main season is the summer. It’s very similar to the French classic ratatouille. While Hungarians love to argue about the one and only true recipe of lecsó, since everyone has a favourite, we wouldn’t like to judge nobody. Some like it with eggs, rice or sausages. Or with all of them. This one is a quite simple and good solution.

Ingredients for two: 3-4 big peppers (preferably different colours, and as meaty as possible) 2-3 tomatoes 1-2 big red onions bacon 1 tbsp paprika salt, black pepper

1. Cut&dice

Dice bacon and onions, cut peppers into bite-size pieces and remove seeds. Quarter tomatoes.

2. Sizzle

Fry bacon on low heat, stir in onions and cook until translucent.

3. Add everything

Add peppers and cook for 15 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook for 10 more minutes. Stir occasionally. Add paprika, salt and black pepper. Cook for two more minutes.

You can add sausages, wienerwurst, or stir in eggs. Eat it with rice or bread. pecscityguide.com

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Drink&Dine

COFFEE AND WINE TO SUBSTITUTE THE BIGMAC

NOT A PUB, NOT A RESTAURANT: ISTVÁN PINCE IS AN INSTITUTION This is the place were the class warfare ends: blue and white collar workers sit down here every day to enjoy their meal. Or drink something and argue about good old times. István Pince is like none other in Pécs.

Usually we write about new openings in this column, but recently, after browsing the internet for several hours without any purpose, we discovered that there is no English text about István Pince. That is a shame, since generations “grew up” in Kazinczy Ferenc str 1. Although it changed a lot in the past 26 years since Gyula Vastagh manages it. It used to be a simple tavern with thick smoke, with regulars sitting there all day and teenagers on a small budget who could get their booze on the cheap. You could get to eat sandwiches only, and the drinks were terrible.

The quality of the beverages improved a lot in recent years. We still do remember when you couldn’t even drink a spritzer here, but today even quality wines appear on the board. About 10-15 years ago

everything changed - except some of the regular customers - and typical Hungarian dishes started to appear on a dedicated menu card.

Today not drinks but the food generates the bigger revenue. You will

Generations ‘grew up’ in István Pince

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find goulash, soups, vegetable stews (főzelék in Hungarian), deep fried everything here. It’s not excellent food, also it is not terrible, but this is where a HUF720 daily menu will bring you. And why do we even recommend this place? Because this is where you should start with Hungarian specialties. Like bean-goulash or birkapörkölt (lamb stew). The even more curios ones could try vesevelő (kidney-marrow stew) here. Even better: come back and try them all.

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

One of the most unfortunate events of recent months in the gastronomy of Pécs was that after 20 years of operation McDonald’s closed on Szechenyi sqr. It didn’t take too long to find a new tenant for the exclusive location: according to the latest plans the new shop will open in September. It won’t be neither a classic restaurant, nor a bar, but something in-between. We were told that they will have wine and coffee in their focus.

The 5 Best* ice-creams

1. Jókai Cukrászda (Ferencesek str 6)

2. Capri Cukrászda (Citrom str 5-7)

3. Mischler Cukrászda (Árkád, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky str 11/1)

4. Magda Cukrászda (Kandó Kálmán str 4)

5. Trüffel Cukrászda (Hársfa str 34) *Editor’s opinion, based on price, quality, and reliability.

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To Do When summer heat drives you out of town, there are more possibilities than just dipping in a lukewarm water. Villages and little towns around and close to Pécs have some interesting events and sights to offer.

OUT OF

TOWN Visit Liberland

Hungarians do love rose. Very much. The rozéfröccs (rosé-based spritzer) is the official drink of several Hungarian music festivals, and it was a great idea to create a festival for the drink on its own in Villány (25 min drive from Pécs, but you better go by train). The two-day event has concerts to offer but the marathon run on Saturday, where you are advised to dress in pink, is a must. Villány July 17-18, More info: http://villanyiborfesztival.hu/roze

The micro country Liberland has been born in April when a Czech politician declared its existence.

The previously unclaimed 7 km 2 territory can be found between Croatia and Serbia and is quite close to Pécs (1,5 hour drive). There are organized events for the newly born nation almost every weekend, that usually end with arrests.

Liberland More info: liberland.org.

X. Mushroom Festival

Cross swim Orfű Lake

Rozéfröccs Festival and Rozémaraton in Villány

Kárász (40 min drive from Pécs) is a small village but every year for a day it becomes the capital of mushroom lovers and professionals. This is already their 10th gathering, and besides learning a lot about mushroom you can try delicious mushroom dishes. Kárász June 27.

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Treadmilling in Mohács

After being abandoned for about 50 years renovation works started in 2007 at St. Nicholas watermill in Mohács (40 min drive from Pécs).

It’s latest attraction is the only working treadmill of Europe that has been inaugurated in late May. Mohács More info: patakmalom.hu

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

Balaton cross swimming is a several decades old tradition and there is something similar happening in Orfű (15 min drive from Pécs). Organized for the 3rd time you can cross-swim (1.5 km) or even swim around (4.2 km) the lake. Orfű Aug 9, More info: goo.gl/4ZgVVJ

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Günzer Tamás Pincészete | Villány, Baross G. 104. | www.borpinceszet.hu

To Do

YVARAL - THE PATH OF THE VASARELYS

Do you know the link between maths and Marilyn Monroe? The keyword you should be looking for is a name: Yvaral. Born as Jean-Pierre Vásárhelyi (1934-2002), the son of famous Hungarian artist Victor Vasarely became an artist himself and working alongside his father, he discovered and explored the beauty of geometry in art.

Thanks to the Vasarely Foundation Aix-en-Provence, and to the fact that his father was born in Pécs, a big collection of his works are on display until September at the Gallery of Hungarian Modern Art.

His most famous works are abstract compositions and portraits of pop-culture icons. Yvaral, just like his father, was a revolutionary artist, trying to define and codify art with the help of a geometric vocabulary (cubic structure, structured horizons). He created the phrase ‘Numerical Art’ to describe artwork composed (or programmed) according to numerical rules or algorithms.

Until Sept 20; Tue-Sun: 10am-8pm. Gallery of Modern Hungarian Art (Papnövelde str 5) Admission: HUF2000/1000.

TURKISH NATIONAL ULUPUH YOUTH PHILHARMONICS

The Turkish National Youth Philharmonic Orchestra was founded by conductor Cem Mansur in 2007. All the musicians are aged between 16 and 22 and are studying at renowned universities and conservatories across the country.

Hundreds of music students from all over Turkey apply to join the orchestra every year, and only the

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very best make it past the tough audition stage.

Their concert in Pécs has a very unique venue: the Bishop’s Garden will open its gates for this cultural event in the evening. The performance will feature plays written

by Mussorgsky, Dvořák, Bartók, Debussy and Erkin. August 10, 7.30pm; Bishop’s Garden (Dóm sqr).

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

The Croatian Association of Artists of Applied Arts, called Uluhu organizes an exhibition for the second time in Pécs. After the great success of their event in 2014, this time ceramics, architecture, graphic, photography, industrial, textile, fashion and jewellery design will be on display.

July 17-Aug 16; Tue-Sun: 10am6pm. M21 Gallery (Zsolnay Cultural Quarter) Admission: HUF500/250.

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To Do

EUROPE CANTAT 2015

RUNNING NIGHT AT POGÁNY AIRPORT

Europa Cantat is the biggest event of the European Choral Association and organized every three years.

Pécs was already the host of this big event in the 1980s. In 2015 more than 3,000 singers from across Europe and several countries in the world come together for 10 days.

During the festival several event will be open to the public as well.

On of these will be the daily open singing events at Dóm sqr, everyone is invited to sing-along or just listen to the professionals.

Sure, this is a runway for airplanes. But for the second time the organizers of the event open up the gates of the airport in Pogány not to airplanes but to runners.

You are invited to join the half marathon (21.5 km) that starts at 8pm. Participants of the race take part in a draw where the main prize is a pleasure-flight above and around Pécs.

August 15; 8pm; Pogány Airport; Admission: HUF2500-5000. More info: goo.gl/63RKCk

One of the biggest events will be the Night of the Choirs: a mix of flashmobs and organized concerts on July 26. Participants will turn streets, squares, courtyards and historical ruins into concert halls for a night. A series of short concerts will take place simultaneously in multiple locations in the old centre of Pécs, complemented by flashmobs and other short performances.

July 24-August 2, Several venues.

More info: ecpecs2015.hu

ANTIQUITY MARKETS

We wrote about the flea market in Pécs in the May issue of Pécs City Guide extensively, but the antiquity markets are a little bit different.

Maybe even more interesting.

Every first Thursday and Friday of each month antiquity dealers from all around the country come together in Pécs and try to get rid of their stuff. You can find real tresures somtimes, but like always: do not forget to haggle over everything you might buy.

July 2-3, August 6-7, 8am-14pm; Pécs Marketplace (Megyeri str).

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Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

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Enjoy our seven slides, 1400 m2 of adventure pools, 43 m2 jacuzzi pool, children pool, water games, wooden playing ground, five-a-side football field and beach volleyball court.

Like our Facebook page and you can win tickets with our daily game! fb.com/orfuaquapark www.aquapark.hu Phone: +36 70 320 4411 info@aquapark.hu

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Essentials

THE ZSOLNAY LEGEND After spending some time in Pécs you have to realise that you see the Zsolnays’ heritage almost everywhere. So many years later the influence of the family is still not without an effect on the everyday life of the city.

Museums and collections (see page 10), the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter, the Zsolnay Factory, the Zsolnay Vilmos street, the Zsolnay Just to list a few locations that are easily connected with one of the most influential families in the history of Pécs. And sure there are the not so obvious - but still quite obvious - hints like tiles, rooftops, reliefs, small and huge ceramics, and statues all around the city that are easily identified as products of the Zsolnay Factory.

And there is the statue (pictured above) of Vilmos Zsolnay manager, inventor and artist that lead the factory founded by his father to success. The industrialist and entrepreneur wanted to be a painter but had to take over his father’s business and a couple of years later the hard tile manufacture. He realised fast that selling readymade products in big quantities is a much better business. That lead to

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one of the biggest pottery factories of Europe in just a few decades.

The Zsolnay Factory had partners all around Europe and exported even to the USA. The most well known products of the factory were (and still are) the beautiful, artistic vases, dinnerwares, figurines. And the greenish eosin-glaze. But still, the core business was making much more money: roof tiles, floor tiles and sewage pipes of superb quality were sold to all corners of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

And the factory prospered for almost 90 years under the management of Zsolnay Vilmos and later his son. The people of Pécs loved to work for the factory, not only because of the benefits (like child care, schools, free healthcare), but they were proud to be employed by the Zsolnay family. The first very unpleasant moment in the

Pécs City Guide Summer 2015

history of the factory came with WWI. Production never was the same again, but the real problems started after WWII. Communist Hungary used to be a terrible place for industrialists and successful families. The factory has been nationalized, the Zsolnay name was dropped and the heritage of the Zsolnay’s almost got lost.

The Zsolnay Factory prospered for almost 90 years The struggle of the factory did not end in the 1990s and even today there are problems. The factory’s territory is much smaller (Zsolnay Cultural Quarter takes up much more space) and there is almost no industrial production. Plans to make pottery for IKEA derailed in 2010.

The manufacture continues to deliver masterpieces, but its glorious times might never come back again.

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