May/June 2008 Baja Lifestyle Magazine

May/June 2008

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IN T HI S 6 8 11 12 16 21 22 26 28 31

I S S U E

May/June 2008

From the Editor Good Neighbors Baja’s “Sky Island” Mexican Folk Cures Casa de Los Siete Patios Calendar of Events Shark Encounters Seafood & Wine Affair Insiders Guide Down to Business

Photograph by Doug Gould/Baja Wild

Baja Lifestyle Magazine is published by: Baja Media Group Send mail to: PO Box 189101 #307 Coronado, CA 92178-9010 US (559) 302-8702 MX 011-52-1-646-160-7526 info@bajalifestylemag.com www.bajalifestylemag.com Published bimonthly.

The publication is distributed in upscale areas of California, Arizona, Canada and Northern Baja California. © Baja Media Group

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B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E

Melanie Lamaga

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2008

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BAJA L I F E S T Y L E

Thora Guthrie Editor/Publisher & Creative Director Photographers Doug Gould Melanie Lamaga Jose Angel Lamaga

From the Editor To say that Baja California is a land of contrasts is an understatement.

Geographically, rugged cliffs and long sandy beaches along the seashore differ from to rolling hills and large and growing vineyards of the inland wine countries. Little dusty towns and fishing villages sleep in sharp contrast to bustling oceanfront cities like Ensenada and inland Mexicali an Tecate.

Diverse cultures throughout Baja range from the original native tribes, holding fast to their heritage and traditions, to the proud descendants of the Spanish and Chinese who settled over the centuries. There are the Dutch and Russians who arrived in the past century and then the Americans and other newcomers who have more recently been finding their way to Baja in search of a different kind of lifestyle than they find at home.

As my family launched and distributed the first issue of Baja Lifestyle Magazine this March, Mother Nature exhibited her contrasts with great display. After our drive from the border through hills ablaze with wildflowers, a cold front descended and a thunderstorm pelted our little oceanfront trailer with rain and hail. We awoke to a panorama of snow-capped mountains above Punta Banda! The cool, crisp day featured the bluest skies I can remember! The temperatures warmed to eighty degrees by mid week with afternoon breezes, but by the end of the week, fog rolled in as the warm inland air met the cold ocean air. Every day was incredibly beautiful. And different!

Contributors Martina Dobesh Steve Dryden Flavio Oliveri Carlos Garcia-Travesi

Vol. 1 Issue 2 The mission of Baja Lifestyle Magazine is to reveal the extraordinary lifestyle of Northern Baja California through thought-provoking stories, and to be the most effective communication vehicle to reach the diverse population choosing to be part of the the human landscape here.

Copyright 2008 Baja Media Group Distributed to select areas of Northern Baja, California, Arizona and Canada.

OUR COVER

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The home tour of Casa de Los Siete Patios in this issue contrasts that of Casa Lana in our last one. Though decades older, Casa de Los Siete Patios has contemporary lines and bright whites that stand out majestically against the azure ocean below. It is a real treat!

April saw both the Rosarito to Ensenada bike ride and Newport to Ensenada yacht race, events that signal the beginning of an exciting summer for Northern Baja. So don’t postpone making your plans to explore Baja’s beaches and oceans, villages and cities and its rich wine country soon!

Thora Guthrie

Thora Guthrie

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B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E

May/June 2008

This month’s cover was shot by Melanie Lamaga of Willow River Studio in Punta Banda. Her other shots of La Casa de Los Siete Patios can be seen in the article about the Bitterlin family villa in this issue.

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GOOD NEIGHBORS

n 1999, a small group of women from Mexicali took up beekeeping as a method to generate much needed additional income for themselves and their families. They paired up with an agricultural specialist, then approached Los Niños which agreed to assistance in the form of a small micro-credit loan to get started - one bee-suit and two beehives.

Between 2000 and 2003, El Proyecto Apicultura Comunitaria, “The Community Apiculture Project,” grew to include 7 women. They purchased their first extraction equipment to simplify the removal of honey from the beeswax honeycomb and began to train family members to support their fledgling enterprise.

In addition to honey, the women produced beeswax candles, healing salves & ointments, facial & hand creams. But in late 2003, the demand for their products began to outpace the supply. and they needed a means to secure additional hives in order to expand their business.

Los Niños stepped in again, pairing corporate philanthropic groups with the Mexicali women and families. The volunteers have the opportunity to engage in a team building exercise (building bee boxes) while learning about the unique needs of women and families in the Border Region, and educate themselves on one of the most prolific metaphors of team-oriented functionality in nature - the beehive!

The partnership for this thriving industry is a win-win situa-

tion, changing people’s lives forever. Learning a skill that can support families builds confidence and self-worth. Volunteers gain a new richness in the understanding of poverty and the means by which individuals can augment their livelihoods to impact future generations.

An assembled beehive, has an average life-expectancy of 10 years and can support the women to generate an additional $150 - $200 annually.

This potential can be incredibly empowering and thought-provoking.

Socially Responsible Events Like a colony of honeybees working together and creating honey, the Los Niños Bee Events bring together groups to support the development of self-reliant people. Children May Also Participate! Call 619-4346230 for information about the next Bee Event and travel arrangements.

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BAJA

Baja Nomads Golf for Kids

L I F E S T Y L E

LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Just got back from London and read the first edition of your new magazine over breakfast this morning. With the rain trickling down here (just like London) I felt I was in the sunshine in Baja! Well done, and hope you have many more successful issues.

Malcolm Franks London/San Diego

Gracias for such a bright, insightful and beautiful view of my beloved Baja! I look forward to your next issue!

Barbara Lincoln Murrieta, CA We welcome your letters and comments regarding our magazine and articles. Letters may bew edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Baja Lifestyle Magazine, PO Box 189010, #307, Coronado, CA 92178. Email thora@bajalifestylemag.com. www.bajalifestylemag.com

Mike Malcom, Mike Wilson and Ken Baley, all from Tijuana, discuss putting during the fundraising tournament held at Baja Country Club and Golf Resort.

There was a great turnout on April 5th for the First Annual Nomads4Niùos Golf Tournament and Fiesta. The group raised several thousand dollars for local children’s daycare and shelter Agua Viva Guarderia. Many more arrived later for the after game fiesta catered by Chef Chema. The event was held at the Baja Country Club and Golf Resort just south of Ensenada.

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OUT AND ABOUT

El Milagro celebrates “Sunset Saturdays” El Milagro Baja has been hosting regular “Sunset Saturday Celebrations” at their beachfront model and sales office. Everyone is invited to join in the fun which features wine and tequila tasting, fine food, stargazing, entertainment and other exciting discoveries of Baja. And the sunsets cannot be beat!

Above right, guests lounge on the patio of the model, enjoying the wine and the sunset.

At right, Travis Chrisman of Baja 123 (left) and Shane Delmer, sales manager of El Milagro (right).

Jeannie Roberts of Las Ventanas (below) with her favorite magazine.

Artist and musician “Simon” entertains guests (right).

Above, hostess Jamaica Delmer (left) and Leonora Noiega greeting guests.

Blues and Arts Festival on the Sea of Cortez The Lions Club, together with Tecate and a host of local sponsors, organized the San Felipe Blues and Arts Festival which shook the surrounding hills from its baseball field venue on Saturday, April 19th.

Set against a scenic mountain backdrop under providential blue skies, the festival kicked off in the morning and continued all day, culminating with a jam session that evening.

Accompanying the seven local and visiting blues bands were a wide range of visual artists who displayed their works. Photographers, woodworkers, painters, sculptors, potters, jewelry designers and several cross discipline visionaries showcased their achievements to a steady stream of admiring onlookers.

Johnny Mastro and the Mama’s Boys, curtained by smoke and kinetic night lighting, stirred up the well-oiled crowd with a performance that flaunted a raw electric edge.

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LOCAL ESCAPES

San Pedro de Mártir: Baja’s “Sky Island” Although Baja is well known for its lengthy stretches of desert, chaparral and cactus, avid hikers and campers are often surprised to learn about a refreshingly different, somewhat lesser known area in the northwest. The Parque Nacional Sierra San Pedro de Mártir offers visitors a rare taste within Mexico: snow-capped mountains, incredible hiking through pine and oak forests, high mountain meadows, black tailed deer, desert bighorn sheep and a brilliant night sky full of stars. This gorgeous national park also hosts an extremely special attraction: the national observatory of Mexico!

At an elevation of 9,285 feet, this observatory is now known internationally as one of the best sites on Earth from which to view the heavenly bodies thanks to extremely low light pollution and relative humidity, low atmospheric pollution, generally clear skies and relatively little radio interference.

The same things which make this observatory an incredible place to stargaze also make it a fun challenge for Baja adventurers to reach. Adventurers who a;rrive at the top will find ranches and beautiful isolated camp sites surrounded by giant old growth Jeffrey and lodgepole pines, and extensive groves of quaking aspens. Hiking trails lead to Blue Bottle, a 2900 m (9500 ft) rise, or to Picacho del Diablo at 3100 m (10,153 ft), the highest point on the peninsula of Baja California.

The Sierra de San Pedro Mártir is a good example of a “sky island.” The species which inhabit this mountain range have been separated from related organisms that live in adjacent high-elevation areas by their inability to cross the intervening hotter, drier low-elevation lands. This physical isolation has permitted genetic drift among several local plant and animal populations, producing variations found only in the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir.

Although scientists and locals work hard to maintain it, the dirt road which leads to it from the Transpeninsular Highway can be difficult to traverse - especially in winter due to snow and rain. Four wheel drive vehicles are highly recommended. Travelers and campers are also strongly encouraged to bring their own food, gasoline, water and car repair tools.

Information courtesy of Andrea Morton and Baja Bound Insurance Services

Photo by Doug Gould/Baja Wild

The Sierra de San Pedro Mártir became a national park in 1947, and work is now underway for it to be designated as part of the International Biosphere Preserve, a most worthy distinction for this unique place.

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Mexican Folk

By Barbara Goodwin

No matter how modern medicine advances, folk cures will never completely disappear, especially in Mexico. Natural remedies are so deeply ingrained in the culture that most Mexicans look to their plants almost automatically before they seek out a medical doctor. Many Americans are also becoming more and more aware of the benefits of natural treatments for whatever ails them.

Imagine the dismay of the Aztecs when the Spanish Conquistadores arrived with their “doctors” of modern medicine. The Spanish methods of treatment were limited to cupping, bleeding, and leeches, which drained the body of strength, and purgatives, which caused an even greater assault on the body and often worsened the problem.

The Aztecs knew better.

Living close to nature they had had thousands of years to discover which botanicals restored health and which were deadly. Women, most likely to spot an ailing family member, were the keepers of the secrets of nature. They understood the principle of “impar,” the mathematics of medicine.

Impar means uneven, odd. They believed that when ailing, the body is out of balance and therefore the proper proportions of curatives had to consist of an odd number of ingredients; the body itself acting as the element to create the final balance.

In ancient times, the Aztecs believed that illness was caused by immoderate living or a curse by the gods. Today, Mexicans believe it is caused by an improper diet, environmental factors like pollution, the stress of modern times and the introduction of processed foods and fast foods. Many Mexicans are also aware that genetically modified seeds have found their way into the food chain, especially the corn supply. Few actually believe that “organically grown” really is. And 12

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although most of the Mexican population now resides in cities, they still demand access to the natural curatives in the countrysides. In the old days it was easy to find yerba buena (Mint), yerba santa, rosa de castilla, jamaica, yucca, or honey right from the comb.

Today they look to the botanicas, shops which bring in these and hundreds of other natural curatives from the rural areas. So many minor illness are easy to cure in their view so a visit to the doctor is often the last resort. It not only saves money but is often a gentler way to treat something they know doesn’t require a major assault on the body and has almost no side effects.

Yucca, they have seen,

helps keep the joints loose and relieves the pain of arthritis. Chili peppers, an ingredient in modern arthritis creams, does the same although the Aztecs knew that hundreds of years ago. Bronchitis can be cured with two yerba santa leaves steeped in water to make a tea. The plant is very strong so they are steeped only for a few seconds. They recommend taking it at bedtime because it is an anesthetic which makes talking difficult, but it loosens and brings up congestion.

Diarrhea is an easy fix as well. Take one avocado pit and chop it into pearl-sized pieces. Cook a pot of rice with more water than the rice can absorb. Add mint leaves and strain, retaining and drinking the cloudy liquid. It provides a gentle and calming relief to the stomach almost immediately. It is in fact sold by the glass at many curb-

Cures

side foot stands. Sick or not, it is a refreshing drink.

Colitis is cured by whipping 3-5 egg whites until they stand in peaks. Spread it on a small towel and sprinkle with Rosa de Castilla or fresh oregano. Put the gooey side down on the stomach and leave it there fore 2-3 hours. When the substance turns black or yellow, it is removed. The pain will be gone and the stomach will have returned to normal size.

Some Mexicans chew bougainvilla leaves to reduce the effects of asthma.

They believe that chewing (but not swallowing) Yerba Buena lowers blood pressure. Aztec root stops bleeding gums, cures pyarish and strengthens teeth. Only in the past few decades have cosmetics manufacturers discovered the benefits of Aloe Vera on the skin, but the ancients have used it for generations to moisturize the skin, reduce the scarring from burns and to heal the effects of chicken pox.

Many Mexican doctors actually incorporate the uses of natural curatives into their own medical practices without self-consciousness or apology. It is, in fact, almost second nature. As one doctor said, “We don’t throw something out just because it’s old. We know that certain things work in conjunction with modern medicine so why not use it.”

He gave me an example in his own practice.

An American retiree living in Ensenada needed bypass surgery. He went to the United States for the surgery then returned to his

home in Ensenada to recuperate. However, he remained uncomfortable as he realized that his surgical scar was not healing.

He visited this local doctor who told him to put pure honey on it -that is, honey right from the comb. Wondering what kind of “medical advice” this was, he returned to his cardiologist in the States. He had to undergo another surgery to repair the scar. He happened to mention to the cardiologist that his doctor in Mexico had told him to put honey on the scar.

“Can you imagine anything so ridiculous?”, he asked. The cardiolgist said, “You should have done what he told you to. You wouldn’t have needed a second surgery!”

Continued on next page

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Baja Wine Tours

Cures

continued

This same local doctor told me about a patient he had, an elderly Mexican man who came to him with stomach pains. He was diagnosed with cancer. Terrified of chemotherapy and radiation he asked this doctor what other options there were. “Every day make up a mixture of pure honey, port wine and a lot of sap from an aloe vera plant and drink it three times a day,” he reluctantly recommended.

The patient followed these instructions and over a period of two years the cancer had disappeared and he was living a normal, vigorous life. Then one day he returned to this doctor. He was not feeling well and tests showed the cancer was back.

“What happened?”, the doctor asked, “You were doing so well”.

The man said that one day he had a strong urge to taste a She would taco...then another. Thinking that the cancer was gone, he skin it and went back to his old ways of throw it eating which brought back the disease. into a pot of Another doctor told me that he diagnosed his own mother’s soup, eating cancer. She too refused to consider chemotherapy or radiation. it every day It frustrated the doctor more than usual because it was his own mother and he naturally wanted her to live as long as possible. “Stop talking about it,” she demanded, “I’ll take care of it my way”.

She happened to live in a rural area, so every morning she would climb into the hills and kill a rattlesnake. She would skin it and throw it into a pot of soup, eating it every day. “That was five years ago,” her son told me, “And believe it or not, she’s still alive!”

Another local doctor explained, “We have more freedom to use what we’ve learned from modern medicine with what we know works from our history.

American doctors are afraid of lawsuits. We use our best judgement. Mexican doctors don’t make the kind of money American doctors do but we don’t have some guy in an insurance office telling us how to practice medicine.

I became a doctor in order to help people and I’ll use everything I know works.”

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Casa de

By Thora Guthrie

Photography by Melanie Lamaga

When Jean-Loup Bitterlin offered to design and build a home for his mother Doña Virginia “Pepita” Geffroy Poza, she resisted. She insisted that living behind El Rey Sol, the French restaurant they had owned and operated in downtown Ensenada since1947 was comfortable and convenient. Jean-Loup had grown up working in the restaurant and he knew that his mother deserved a getaway from the hard work and long hours so he was persistent.

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los Siete Patios

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An architecture student at the University of Southern California at the time, he went to work designing “Casa de Los Siete Patios” (House of The Seven Patios) for his mother.

In 1969, just out of college, Jean-Loup built the home, the only requirements set forth by his reluctant mother being that the house include lots of glass and a central patio. On this peninsula, relatively isolated from mainland Mexico, traditional Mexican building materials were not readily available in Baja at the time. JeanLoup resorted to importing some materials from across the border and good old ingenuity. A shortage of roof tiles inspired him to design and make shell-shaped terra cotta tiles.

Perched above the ocean at the north entrance to Ensenada in San Miguel, the home sits on two landscaped acres. As you enter through the massive wooden doors imported from a home in Michoacan, Mexico, you can see through layers of glass past the patio fountain outside and a sitting room on the other side of the house, to the ocean beyond. To the left is a huge living room with illuminated pre-Columbian, ceramic sculptures surrounding a large stone fireplace. A circular sofa invites.

The house is round and encircles a large central patio in traditional Spanish style,

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B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E

but tradition ends there. There are expansive views of the ocean from every room. A marble and stone mosaic floor leads from the foyer around the central patio, opening up into comfortably furnished rooms as it leads around the entire house and back to the entrance. An abundance of glass and mirrors creates fascinating illusions as you move around the walkway, reflections of art in front of you that is, in realty behind you.

These illusions contribute to a feeling of being in another time as well – the reflections feel contemporary, the furnishings and art, like the great oils of tropical birds, a part of history. Huge wooden beamed ceilings contrast with white walls. The furniture is eclectic and art abounds. Plush overstuffed sofas and old world wooden pieces blend well and invite the visitor to sit down and sink into the very soul of the home and stay awhile. No one remains a stranger in this home.

The Spanish tiled and rich wood kitchen leads to a dining room with a massive table that easily seats twelve. On the wall hangs a large still life by Aurelio Pescina, whose bright and colorful indigenous work is representative of the best in Mexican art.

There are two large seating areas in the adjacent living room. The traditional area with deep, soft chamois colored sofas invites lively conversation into the late night as is Mexican tradition. The other area is a sunken, round built-in seating area situated around a central fireplace topped with a huge copper chimney from Michoacan. It is easy to envision stories being shared into the night here as well, guests’ faces aglow from the night fire with the lights of Ensenada twinkling in the distance. On an adjacent table sits a marvelous tangle of bulls cast of bronze by Heriberto Juarez.

Every piece of art and furniture has a fascinating story of how it came to be a part of the villa. Some pieces came from the 1800’s chateau that Jean-Loup’s father inherited near Lyon, France. Many of the art pieces came from Europe as well, some many years ago and some more recently during Jean-Loup’s travels. Art pieces and furnishings throughout the home tell of his adventures to faraway places like Morocco, Cuba, Cypress and Thailand. Some of these objects d’art have been transformed with much creativity, like the wooden weaving looms from Thailand that have been transformed into headboards in one of the bedrooms. And the oxen yokes

that now function as coat hooks. Ancient, heavy wooden doors have become massive coffee tables in several of the villa’s rooms.

Several sitting rooms provide cozy, ocean view retreats. And the views cannot help but lure the visitor outside, to leave the comfort of the home to explore and wander along the paths that lead from decks to patios to ponds, an extravagant pool and pool house and Patio Capestre with its professional sized croquet court,

all overlooking the ocean. There is Patio El Mirador with its stone staircase that takes you to a fire ring and sandy beach on the cliffs above the ocean. Patio Pergola includes a thirty foot square terrace, perfect for outdoor dining or parties. Five other patios have their special features.

The views through the trees to Ensenada and Punta Banda are the only clue that this spectacular and isolated villa is not on the Cote D’Azur or the Tuscan Coast. continued on next page

It’s a Magical House full of what feels like great memories…I wish I was there now…”

Bono

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The family home, Casa de Los Siete Patios has seen its share of guests from around the globe. Jean-Loup recalls when Bono and U2 were guests at the villa. A lengthy conversation with Bono left Jean-Loup feeling as if he had been interviewed by the musician and political activist. He was so genuinely interested in the stories of my family and the home,” he recalls. Bono later sent a letter with a photo to Jean-Loup commenting how much he “loved Casa de Los Siete Patios. It’s a Magical House full of what feels like great memories…I wish I was there now…”

Today, the villa stands as a testimony to Jean-Loup’s creativity and to his dedication to family. Casa de Los Siete Patios is now available as a rental villa and for special events such as weddings.

One can share a night at Casa de Los Siete Patios with ten close friends or five couples, each occupying his own bedroom and private bath. Two full-time servants attend to guests, including serving meals catered from the family’s restaurant El Rey Sol which recently celebrated 61 years of serving fine French cuisine to the residents and visitors of Ensenada. Chauffered trips to Baja’s famed nearby wine country can be an additional feature to a stay at the villa.

And there honestly may be nothing finer than to end a beautiful Baja day by enjoying a fine glass of Guadalupe Valley wine as the cruise ships drift out of Ensenada harbor and the sun sets over the Pacific Ocean.

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Until recently, Customs & Border Protection (CBP) was saying that full implementation of the Westerrn Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI) could be as early as summer of this year. This is the law requiring passports for travel between the United States and Mexico.

CPB now has posted on its website that full implementation will not take place before June of 2009. This means that land travelers to Baja will not need to show a passport (or similar document) upon their return to to U.S. before that time.

As of this past Jan. 31, a governmentissued photo ID and proof of citizenship (such as a birth certificate) were required for U.S. citizens older than 18. On Feb. 1, applications for the less expensive passport card began to be accepted.

More details are available at http:// www.cbp.gov.

M A Y / J U N E

40th Annual Tecate SCORE Baja 500 Race

C A L E N D A R

May 30-June 1 Ensenada More than 300 entries from 24 U.S. states, Mexico, Canada, France, Germany, Italy and Japan are expected to compete in this grueling desert race that starts and finishes in Ensenada. Award presentations are Sunday (June 1). For more information, log on to www.scoreinternational.com or call SCORE International at U.S. tel. (818) 225-8402.

MAY 10 Punta Banda Masters of Ceremonies Brent & Gina BeSaw Live Acoustic Rock, Pop & Original Music by Scott BeSaw & Friends Line Dancing by the Baja Chili Peppers of Punta Banda Folkloric Dancers Regional Foods Beer, Wine & Margaritas Raffles 14th Annual Salsa Contest Chile Eating Competition Ms. Chile Pepper and Señor Salsa Contests MAY 10 Arts & Crafts Fair Ensenada Celebrating 20 years in business at the Centro Artesanal de Ensenada. Groups of artists.

Ongoing every Saturday.

MAY 10 Mothers Day (Mexico) Always celebrated on May 10, Mother’s Day in Mexico is celebrated in colorful fashion.

According to custom, sons and daughters come to the family home on the eve of Mother’s Day with gifts, flowers and cards.

MAY 11 Mothers Day (US) MAY 11 Vineyards Flowering Festival Ensenada This festival, which marks the flowering of the wine grapes, takes place at several wineries in the Guadalupe Valley. Wine tasting, family fair with games, regional food, wine and entertainment. $2/ children $f10/adults includes winetasting.

Noon - 5 pm. brac@telnor.net; fiestasve ndimia@hotmail.com MAY 17 Traditional Dance La Casa Vieja - Guadalupe Valley Xochiquetzal Dance Ensemble Performs Traditional Mexican Dances. May 17, 31, June 14 & 28 (Ongoing every other Saturday) Begins at 4 pm. Free.

May 25 Annual Festival del Caballo, Arte y Vino Guadalupe Valley The Horse, Art & Wine Festival features charrería events, jumping and riding competitions, Andalusian dancing horses, folkloric and flamenco dancers, an art fair, wine and regional foods. $25 at the door, $20 in advance, children under12 free. Proceeds benefit Club Tiburones, A.C. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. at Adobe Guadalupe Vineyards & Inn. For tickets and information log on to www.diadelcaballo.com or call (646) 120-5878 or cell (646) 947-7146.

May 26 & 27 La Misión Fiesta Festival with parades, rodeo contests, cultural exhibitions, regional foods, entertainment held at San Miguel Arcangel de la Frontera Mission (at km 65.5 on Tijuana-Ensenada free road; take La Fonda exit from toll road). Fiesta concludes with live music for dancing from 8 p.m.-midnight. Free admission. 011-52664-682-1697. (Ensenada) May 24 & 25 15th Annual Guillermo`s Yellowtail Sportfishing Tournament Bahía de los Angeles Compete for trophies and cash prizes while trying to hook up with the largest yellowtail in the Sea of Cortez. Bring your own boat or arrange a panga rental in town. For more information log on to www.guillermos.net or email guillermosp anga@starband.net, info@guillermos.net May 30-June 1 40th Annual Tecate SCORE Baja 500 Race Ensenada (see above) June 7 Galería Pérez Meillón Ensenada Celebrate the 20th Anniversary of Galería Pérez Meillón. This date also coincides with the birthday of the artist.

June 15 Fathers Day June 21 Art Festival Joanna Jones Gallery, Cantamar Art, music, food and wine. Art by Martina. “Lady de la Leña”

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Shark specialists estimate that 100 million sharks are killed annually for their fins.

Photo courtesy of Sharkdiver

by Thora Guthrie

Sharkwater, the recently released film by Rob Stewart could very well have a drastic effect on the public’s view of sharks. But unlike in the 1970’s when the movie “Jaws” had millions fearful of venturing even to the ocean’s edge, this film could quite possibly have the opposite effect. People might actually venture into ocean waters to seek out these beasts which have inhabited the planet for more than 450 million years!

In all likelihood, the majority of us won’t go seeking out sharks, but the film could have the positive effect of raising awareness about the plight of sharks. Over the last few decades, white shark populations worldwide have been vanishing -- estimates range between a 70-90% decline of its global population size. Much of this decline is, no doubt, the devastating effect of longline fishing and “finning” or hunting sharks for their fins.

After they are captured and their fins cut off, the hunters heartlessly dump their crippled bodies into the deep to be mercilessly eaten alive. Dried shark fin can retail for more than $30 per pound in Asia, with great whites earning its killer nearly $30,000 per shark! A multi-billion dollar industry and largely unmonitored, it is estimated by shark specialists that 100 million sharks are killed annually for their fins, threatening the ecosystems of our oceans. Any shark is taken -- regardless of age, size or species.

And there is no Greenpeace for sharks!

Last year, dive and research vessel Nautilus Explorer happened upon a Mexican fishing boat that had a net filled with huge numbers of captured and dead and dying dolphins, sharks and two and a half tons of shark fins on board. Following his heart and conscience, owner Michael Lever filmed the devastation and took immediate action that led to the capture and imprisonment of the two fishermen involved, in doing so risking his own life. The fishing community is a tight group that protects one another and not wanting a price on his own head, even the Nautilus Explorer’s Mexican boat skipper packed up and walked off the boat when he discovered what Lever had done calling him“crazy.”

About 150 miles off the coast of Baja California lies Guadalupe Island, its waters teaming with sharks, including a huge population of Great Whites that migrate each year from the middle of the Pacific. One of Mexico’s newly created Biosphere Reserves has been established here, theoretically providing refuge for the 22

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sharks along with the other wildlife that live and congregate in the waters. Its remote location and lack of basic infrastructure makes enforcement and protection of its unique and endemic wildlife species a real challenge though. In these vast waters, fishermen like the two that Lever caught can venture into the biosphere ignoring any protection laws and take more than 100 great whites within 72 hours, decimating an entire population.

What is working to help protect the undersea wildlife here is ocean ecotourism. Operations like Patric Douglas’ Shark Diver offer the brave an opportunity for an up close and personal encounter with sharks at Guadalupe Island while supporting shark research and ecology. Aluminum bars are all that separate visiting divers from simply huge great whites like “Guadalupe George” and his friends for an unforgettable, adrenalin-filled adventure. Guadalupe Island is one of the best locations for great white encounters in the world, not only because of constant shark sightings but because of the typical sixty to one hundred-foot visibility.

Shark Diver is one of several shark diving operations, but not all are as safe or reliable and some are just in it for the money, not contributing back to research and conservation. Shark Diver and its fleet vessels are the only companies in the US offering financial and logistical support for serious ongoing shark research by researchers like Dr. Felipe Galvan, Peter Klimley and Mauricio Hoyas Padilla, whose recent, triumphant discoveries have not been publicly reported before this article.

The migratory habits of the great whites have been known for some time, but not the reasoning behind them. That they travel thousands of miles to Isla Guadalupe each year was puzzling. Fitted with many expensive external and internal electronic monitoring tags, Mauricio’s sharks’ day to day activities were monitored. The two species of seals common to the islands are Northern Elephant seals and the small endemic Guadalupe fur seals. Elephant seals, because of huge layers of fat, rarely venture into the water to feed when white sharks are present. On the rare occasions that one does, the scene on the surface as they fall victim to the hungry great whites is bloody and memorable. In contrast, every afternoon when shadows fall on the island, thousands of the fur seals venture into the w ater for much needed sustenance. Stomach temperatures, as indicated by their internal tags, showed Mauricio that under water, out of sight of the observers, the great whites were picking off the small creatures continued on page 24

Photo courtesy of Sharkwater

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Guadalupe continued

like chips at an hors d’oeuvres table. These feeding habits directly relate to their breeding and migratory habits, the huge males returning each year and the pregnant females going elsewhere until they have given birth, returning the following year still showing the scars of the violent mating that took place.

The need to protect the waters of Isla Guadalupe is urgent. Understanding the mating, migratory and feeding habits that have been going on for millions of years is just the first step in saving this mighty species from extinction for bowls of soup and homeopathic cures.

There are several non-profit organizations dedicated to education, research and conservation of sharks and other marine animals. Some, like Iemanya Oceanica, are addressing the socio-economic repercussions of conservation within the communities that depend on marine resources. Through Iemanya, you can “adopt a shark,” the monies from which go toward conservation and cutting edge research using satellite and acoustic tracking tags and monitoring systems.

The Guadalupe Island Conservation Fund is actively supported by a concerned group of dive operators and their clients who make Isla Guadalupe their seasonal home. The owner operators of the MV Nautilus Explorer, MV Islander, MV Horizon and MV Ocean Odyssey along with SharkDiver.com and DivingWithSharks.com are working to make this fund an ongoing reality.

Shark research and conservation programs are costly and the researchers are seeking donations from the private sector to help fund their work. Or, if you’re brave enough, make your contribution by going down to meet these majestic creatures face to face.

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BAJA RETIREMENT

Baja Style Senior Care

Hospitals, clinics and professional offices are state of the art on both Baja coasts. In addition to very well trained physicians, surgeons and dentists, the culture is very prone to personalizing patient care. Most doctors and dentists give out their home numbers and make house calls.

Retirement in Baja California has been a dream of many Americans for decades; some of them have achieved their dream and are enjoying the fantastic ocean views, carefree lifestyle and the warm hospitality of local residents. These retirees have been living in Baja for 15 or 20 years and are getting to a stage in their life that they require some assistance with daily activities, such as dressing, bathing, preparing meals, going to the store, etc. That is where Senior Care comes in!

According to AARP, each year about 7 million Americans receive some type of long-term care and approximately 20% of people over the age of 65 require some level of assistance. According to the US Consulate in Baja California there are approximately 20,000 US Citizens living in the coastline between Tijuana and Ensenada, most of them 65 years or older. According to a study conducted by the Tijuana Economic Development Corporation, 45% of residents in the Tijuana coastal region, over the age of 65, considered that they would require Assisted Living services within the next 5 years and 80% of them said they would like to have that service in the comfort of their own home.

So, what happens when these retirees need assistance? Most do not want to leave Mexico or cannot afford the services in the US. Assisted living facilities in the US can average about $6000 per month. Those who stay in Mexico find it increasingly easy to

contract with a professional company to provide support. Hiring an independent caregiver can cost less, but there are disadvantages, like a lack of backup when the caregiver needs time off. Lack of support, training and oversight can be problems as well.

An alternative is to hire a professional in-home Assisted Living company that can provide certified caregivers, supervision, training and a support network of medical services and emergency response. Such companies have accountability, backup, an established network of doctors, hospitals and other medical services that take care of all your health management needs.

Serena Senior Care is one such company. Thirty-year, veteran nurse Patricia Contreras serves as their principal care manager.

“We assess our customers needs, develop a personalized care plan, supervise the process and make the necessary adjustments,” says Contreras. “That is the Serena System”.

Recently established in Rosarito the company is busy making life easier for local aging residents, according to retiree and long time resident Peter Fowler.

“I am a very satisfied client of Serena Senior Care. They picked me up at the hospital in Chula Vista after surgery and took care of me at home, a great service as I live alone. I can still drive, but I know my day will come and I know I will use them ‘til the end” It is a huge comfort to families living on both sides of the border that here is caring, professional and affordable care for their aging family members throughout their retirement in Baja California.

By Flavio Olivieri, Vice President of the Tijuana Health Tourism Council. He also sits on the board of the Tijuana economic development council (CDT).

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by Carlos Garcia-Travesi Bosch and Steve Dryden

When you combine fresh seafood, an abundance of locally grown produce, olives, fruit with gourmet cheeses and high quality wine you have the backbone for a new food and wine culture. Add to that some gourmet chefs, a new art and cultural center, Mediterranean-like weather and you’ve discovered the Seafood and Wine Festival, held annually in Ensenada.

Each year in April, tents, tables and chairs are elegantly arranged along the waters edge with the majestic hills of La Bufadora and Punta Banda in the background. Local wineries, culinary artists, and regional food and fish farmers present and host a gourmet feast of locally raised mussels, wine, bakery goods, and various culinary wonders. This year, many of the top wine producers from Valle de Guadalupe, Ensenada, Santo Tomas, San Vicente and Ojos Negros also presented their new 2007 releases with contributions from several of the best culinary establishments from Rosarito to Ensenada The obvious message gathered from samples of premium wine and gourmet food is that Ensenada has become the food and wine cultural headquarters for Mexico. This event offers the Baja California food and wine industry a stage to present a summarization of the years of work dedicated to achieving world class status among those who love the better things in life Ensenada has a rich history as a thriving seaport and a superb agricultural area. The

beautiful harbor area is the only deep water port in Mexico and features a boardwalk and plaza with cafes, bistros and an extensive fish market.

More than ninety species of fish are harvested commercially and privately, offering locals and visitors alike the opportunity to purchase fresh swordfish, tuna, halibut, bass, marlin, shrimp, lobster, abalone, sardines, mackerel and more.

The fish market is a colorful and entertaining locale where lucky shoppers, gourmet chefs, restaurant and hotel owners gather daily to select from the abundance of high quality, fresh seafood. In addition, several commercial fish farms provide tuna, mussels and abalone for select markets. The harbor is also home to the sport fishing capital of the region where anglers from far and wide come to take advantage of day trips for bass, bonita, barracuda, cod, yellowtail, albacore and dorado Ensenada has two main agricultural zones: the Guadalupe-Calafia valleys to the north and the Ojos Negros Valley to the east. The main crops are grapes, olives, tomato, wheat, alfalfa, green onions, asparagus and broccoli.

Ojos Negros Valley is home to several quality vineyards and is headquarters for several dairies that are creating Mexico’s new gourmet cheese industry. Valle de Guadalupe and Valle de Calafia feature more than twenty wineries, vineyards, organic farms, hotels, restaurants and museums.

More than ninety percent of all Mexican wine is grown and produced in Valle de Guadalupe. Handcrafted wine from creative artisans has attracted wine lovers from around the world who travel to this magical region to seek out the wine gurus and their “bottled treasures of delight.” Guadalupe Valley is home to winemakers and

A Seafood and Wine

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grape growers from Russia, Italy, Spain, France, Germany, Morocco, India, Switzerland, California, Korea, Japan and Mexico which makes for a diverse and dynamic wine culture The new releases from several Baja California wineries are remarkable and confirm that Mexico is moving rapidly in the direction of creating world class wine. Among the most memorable was the Nebbiolo from Tres Valles Vitivinicola. Don Miller and winemaker Hugo D’Acosta presented a wonderful Vino Rosado, Uriel 2007, a blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbara and Moscatel. Pau Pijoan had the most impressive new release with his 2006 Domenico, a rich and elegant red blend from old vines in San Vicente.

Culinary highlights of the event were mussels in a new wine release reduction sauce with cranberries presented by Chef Jose Halley Ojeda of Portofino Restaurant in Rosarito Beach. The Potofino recipe included mussels (mejillones) sautéed in olive oil, lemon and orange juice, chives, cranberry, white wine, and garlic.

Other favorite culinary delights included risotto with mussels, chorizo in a red wine sauce from Hotel Coral and Marina. Hotel Califia offered a delicious entrée of tapas with mussel, cilantro, shallots, garlic, white wine and sour cream. Guests were also fortunate to experience the delicious presentations of pastries and baked goods from Hoyoza Pan de Hoyoza.

A visit to Ensenada during this festival or at any other time promises to uncover some of the freshest, most delicious seafood and luscious wines you may have ever experienced! It will keep you coming back and you might just decide to stay a lifetime like so many others have!

Steve Dryden is a wine, food, and travel writer living in Valle de Guadalupe where he guides private wine tours, grows grapes and makes wine. Contact sbdryden@hotmail.com.

Carlos Travesi Bosch is owner of Capricho’s Restaurant in Ensenada.

Contact cgtravesi@caprichos.com.mx.

e Affair

Photography by Doug Gould M AY J U N E 2 0 0 8

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I N S I D E R S G U I D E TO N O RT H E R N B A J A WINE TASTING Bodegas de Santo Tomas Free Daily Tours Every Hour From 9:00am-5: 00pm Monday-Saturday/Sundays 10:00am-4:00pm.

Restaurant & Cafe * Cultural Center * Gourment Shop Ave. Miramar #666 * Tel: (646) 178-0836 Cavas Valmar Free Tours & Wine Tasting by Appointment. Calle Ambar #810 * Tel: (646) 178-6405 Bodegas San Antonio Hwy 3, Guadalupe Valley * Tel: (646) 174-0078

HOTELS/RESORTS Estero Hotel & Resort Estero Beach, Ejido Chapultepec; From US 011-52-(646) 176 - 6225; info@hotelest erobeach.com; www.hotelesterobeach.com El Rey Sol Hotel Avenida Lopez Mateos 1000; Ensenada; From US: 011-52-646-178-1733; Fax: 011-52-646178-1405; Deyanira@ElReySol.com www.ElReySol.com RESTAURANTS Capricho’s Restaurant And Riedel Wine Bar 138 Ave. Ruiz, Zona Centro Ensenada (01152646-178-3433). Open Mon.-Thurs., 1 p.m.-midnight; Fri.-Sat., 1 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sun., 1 p.m.-8 p.m.

El Rey Sol Restaurant Avenida Lopez Mateos 1000; Ensenada; From US: 011-52-646-178-1733; Fax: 011-52-646-178-1405; Deyanira@ElReySol.com www.ElReySol.com La Fonda Baja’s Famous Seafood Restaurant on the Coast!

Best & most lobster on the coast. Sunday paella buffet (All you drink Bloody Mary included with buffet). Famous Prime Rib! Km 59.9 RosaritoEnsenada free road; From US 011-52-6461550307; Reservations@LaFondaBaja.com

Susanna’s

California Cuisine Specializing in the Wines of Baja California. Susanna’s Open kitchen, patio and dining areas including our underground wine cellar serves up California hospitality. Open daily 1-11 pm, closed Tuesday.

Located in beautiful Pueblo Plaza between Festival Plaza Hotel and El Nido Rest. Ph (661)613.1187 www.susannasinrosarito.com Mustafá Restaurant Indoor dining specializing in Mexican style breakfasts and lunches with an Arabic flavor.

Services large groups with prior reservations.

Km. 93 Highway #3 Tecate-Ensenada. San Antonio de las Minas. MX (646) 155-3185 Open daily 8-7 pm.

Lady de la Leña One Woman Show at Joanna Jones Gallery Joanna Jones Gallery in Cantamar, just south of Rosarito Beach will feature art

by Martina in a one woman showing, Lady de la Leña.

Artist and storyteller Martina shows each year at the gallelry where proprietor Joanna Jones creates a festive event honoring the artist’s work. Jones describes this year’s collection of work as “the artist’s interpretation of the spirit found in all things.”

The event will include original music by singer, song writer, guitarist D’Elle, will entertain as the art patrons unweave the stories behind the creation of each of Martina’s unique pieces. Lady del la Leña, the central piece in this year’s exhibition, could be perceived as “just fire wood” to many. Its history, however, dates back to the early days in the Baja wine country where a young oak tree lived through a fierce Santa Ana firestorm. All of Martina’s work is rooted solidly in the beauty that comes from Mother Nature.

At sunset, African drum trio, Tamboraizticos, led by master drummer, Tomas Esparza will call a sacred drumming circle to honor the summer Solstice.

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La Casa Vieja A historical 1800’s adobe home in the Guadalupe wine country of northern Baja, has been converted into a splendid fine art gallery and gift shop. Wine tasting is featured. Homemade jams, candles, soaps and other natural products are specialties. Enjoy the relaxing country atmosphere in the shade of olive trees. The Toscano family welcomes you. Located on the Ruta del Vino near San Antonio de las Minas at Km 93.5 on the Tecate-Ensenada Highway 3. Open 12-6 daily except Mondays. MX (646) 155-3153. lacasavieja.baja@hotmail.com

SPAS La Fonda Km 59.9 Rosarito-Ensenada free road; From US 011-52-646-1550307; Reservations@LaFondaB aja.com Casa Natalie Km 103.3 Carretera Tijuana-Ensenada; #7263, El Sauzal de Rodriguez, Ensenada, BC 22760; From USA toll free 1(888) 562-8254; In Mexico 01(646) 174-7373; reservations@casanatalie.com; www.casanatalie.com; ADVENTURE/SPORTS TOURS Shark Diver

International shark adventures are closer than you think. Book your adventure with us today!

Email us at staff@sharkdiver.com or call us anytime to book your Shark Diver adventure! 415.404.6144. Or call us toll free at 888.405.3268

There will be wine tasting from Guadalupe Vineyards, unique foods created by local chefs, a “Starving Artist” Reduced Art Sale and Raffle drawings. Saturday, June 21, 1 pm to 7 pm. There is no charge to attend. Joann.joannajones@gmail.com . MX cell 646.193.0072;

Cedros Outdoor Adventures offering sport fishing and adventure expeditions to Cedros and San Benito Islands. These unique ecosystems resemble the California coast as it was 50 years ago -- unpolluted and thriving with sea life. Open panga fishing, hiking diverse terrain that includes desert, rare pine forest, endemic plants, elephant seal breeding colonies, bird watching, photo safaris, tours of lobster and abalone fisheries and snorkeling. COA flies you there, which means you will start your sport fishing or eco-adventure the same day!

Gordo’s Sportfishing Sportfishing charters, whale watching, bay tours, surf & dive trips; Blvd. Costero & Ave. Macheros; from US 011-52-(646) 178-3515

I N S I D E R S G U I D E TO N O RT H E R N B A J A ARTS/CULTURAL CENTERS Tijuana Cultural Center (CECUT) 9350 Avenue Paseo de Los Héroes, Zona Rio, Tijuana. The center is composed of a theater, lecture rooms, video rooms, a library, an exhibition hall, the Museum of the Californias, a futuristic planetary movie theater that displays IMAX films, and a restaurant. CECUT receives about a million visitors per year, making it Baja California’s most important cultural center.

Ensenada State Center of the Arts (CEARTE) Blvd. Lazaro Cardenas & Avenuda Club Rotario in Ensenada. Opened in 2007, this modern, spacious facility ushers in a new era in public art and culture available at no cost to visitors and citizens.

The center offers not only art and sculpture displays, but lectures by well known authors, puppet shows for children, concerts and more.

GALLERIES Joanna Jones Galeria Art gallery & outdoor restaurant. Km 47.6 Cantamar. MX 614.0823. joann.joannajones@gmail.com Galeria del Mar Art, sculpture, framing; Rosarito Beach Hotel Shops, Rosarito Galeria Giorgio Santini (Fine Art and Jewlery Gallery) (661) 6141459; www.giorgiosantini.com Polo’s Fine Art Gallery Fine art, paintings; Popotla, just south of Fox Studios; (661) 100 2475; www.polosfineart.com Gallery Sol Rojo 29.5 Rosarito-Ensenada Free Road

Watercolor of Joanna Jones Gallery

by Scott Kennedy

Calderon Arte y Diseño Art & wrought iron. (661) 613 19 82

Art & Stuff Km 103.5 Carretera TJ/Ensenada El Sauzal, Baja Norte, Mex Local phone: 646.175.8859 U.S. phone: 949.202.5321

Casa Real Fine Furniture; k31 Rosarito-Ensenada; (661) 612 5726 US (619) 405 8059 La Esquina de Bodegas Calle 6 & Av. Miramar, Ensenada ART & STUFF/ENSENADA Km 103.5 Carretera TJ/Ensenada next to Casa Natalie Hotel; Coast Road El Sauzal. Fine, Folk & Decorative Art www.ensbc.com/Art&Stuff

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DISCOVER BAJA’S WINE COUNTRY

Guadalupe Valley B A J A

Mustafá Restaurant Special Mexican & Arabic Foods Km. 93 Tecate-Ensenada Hwy MX (646) 155-3185 Open daily 8-7 pm.

W I N E

BAJA STYLE REAL ESTATE

Specializing in Guadalupe Valley Real Estate Jo Ann Knox MX cell 646)193-0072 (from U.S.) 011-521-646-193-0072 U.S. 619-819-2994 www.BajaStyleRealEstate.com

C O U N T R Y LA CASA VIEJA Historic Home & Winery

Km 93.5 Tecate-Ensenada Highway Tel MX (646) 155-3153. lacasavieja.baja@hotmail.com 12-6 daily except Mondays

JUST A FEW OF THE MORE THAN 50 WINERIES AND OTHER GUADALUPE VALLEY DESTINATIONS 30

B A J A L I F E S T Y L E M AG A Z I N E

G E T T I N G D OW N TO B U S I N E S S

Steps to safely buying your Baja dream Recent changes in the legal, financial and cultural environment of México have made this dream closer to reality for more people than ever today. Whether you are ready to retire in the area, desire to secure a place in the sun for your family to enjoy or just want to take advantage of the investment opportunity a reputable realtor can find the right property for your goals, guide you through the process and mitigate the nuances of the Mexican purchase process. Be sure to have a qualified professional representing your interests in the search and acquisition process.

Yes. You can own property in Mexico

Making your first offer on an existing property in Mexico can be simultaneously exciting and nerve wracking without an understanding of the process. Here are the common steps to the process to help put you at ease: 1. Formalize the offer, deposit and acceptance of the offer (buyer and seller) 2. Conduct a title search (buyer) 3. Open an escrow account (recommended – either party) 4. Enter into a formal purchase contract (both) 5. (If a trust does not already exist) elect a Mexican bank to manage the trust (buyer) 6. Obtain a trust permit (buyer) 7. Perform a due diligence investigation (buyer) 8. File for title insurance (recommended - buyer) 9. Select a Notary Public to close the deal (buyer) 10 Review and ultimately sign the title document before the Notary Public (both) 11. File and register the title (buyer) Note that a buyer has a number of items to complete in the process. It is for this reason you should hire a representative to drive all the documentation to completion. This can be a Mexican attorney but there are lower-cost, more focused, “title services” companies that charge a much lower fee, (between $1,200 and $1,500) which includes all the documentation, the title search, a plot plan, and the due diligence documents. Normal closing periods in Mexico are at least 45 days after the formal purchase contract is signed.

Information courtesy of Larry French of Prudential Baja (larry.french@prubaja.com).

Suscribe to Larry French’s newsletter for up to date information on current events, an insiders view of the news and the best deals to be found on the coast.

The government cannot take your land if you have the proper legal title.

Photo by Paula McDonald M AY J U N E 2 0 0 8

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H o t s u r f s p o t. c o o l b e a c H c o l o n y. t o g e t H e r at l a s t.

High-style, ocean-front living in Baja Norte.

877 695 5522

n

livingk55.com

2 purchase B A J A Lreal I F E Sproperty T Y L E Minterests AG A Z I N This offer3to is Evoid in any jurisdiction where the seller has not been approved to sell real property interests, or has not otherwise complied with applicable law.