Aug 18 08 2017 by ES Magazine

18.08.17

FULLY BOOKED How to write a bestseller

Is she faux real? London’s fake fur queen

Plus:

Meet

The best bank holiday breaks dopamine for the home & Goldie’s My London

Mabel

hanging out with the music world’s new sensation

CONTENTS 7 Last of the summer raves in CAPITAL GAINS 8 It’s a cover-up, says Laura Craik in UPFRONT 11 Our MOST WANTED are sporty perforated watches 12 What’s this, it’s Sam Smith in FLASHBULB 14 Become a BESTSELLING AUTHOR here

SHRIMPS: a fabulously faux story 23 London welcomes Weekday in STYLE NOTES 25 Collar-free cool in MEN’S STYLE 26 Make way for MABEL McVEY 34 EIGHTIES hair is back and bigger than ever 41 GRACE & FLAVOUR eats up Tuyo 43 TART churn out raspberry and coconut ice cream 45 WA Green founder Zoe Anderson in HOMEWORK 49 ESCAPE for the bank holiday weekend 50 Goldie’s MY LONDON 19

EDITOR Laura Weir

The ES team choose their favourite places for bottomless brunch

Cover: Mabel photographed by Luke & Nik. Styled by Sophie Paxton. REJINA PYO jacket, £626; trousers, £435, at mytheresa.com. CÉLINE earrings, £376 (celine.com)

4 1

BALA BAYA , SE1 ‘“Bottomless” at Bala Baya doesn’t mean getting trollied on prosecco — instead, for £8 you get unlimited, superb Israeli small plates when you order a main.’ Frankie McCoy, features writer

THE VINCENT, E8 ‘Anywhere with “bacon salt” on the menu gets my vote.’ Clara Dorrington, picture desk assistant

BUNGA BUNGA , SW11 ‘La Famiglia Brunch on Sundays at Bunga Bunga… warm brioche, cured meats and unlimited Bellinis, which you can walk off at Battersea Park afterwards.’ Natalie Salmon, social media editor

MAYFAIR PIZZA CO, W1 ‘Go here for Nutella calzones and eggs Florentine, washed down with free-flowing Bloody Marys and mimosas.’ Wendy Tee, acting art director

COYA, W1 ‘At its Mayfair branch, Coya serves a fresh and healthy Peruvian menu — perfect for a girls’ catch-up on a Sunday.’ Eniola Dare, fashion assistant

Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us:

@eveningstandardmagazine

@ESmagofficial

Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Wendy Tee Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy

Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington

Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare

Social media editor Natalie Salmon

Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells

Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester

Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe

Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine

ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited

18.08.17 ES MAGAZINE 3

capital gains What to do in London by FRANKIE M c COY

Morning glory

Freshly ground espresso plus top quality meat makes for seriously lush barbecue at the Coal Rooms, the new project from Old Spike Roastery, which serves meat with coffee gravy and coffee-cured bacon sandwiches. Morning sorted. Opens 19 August (coalrooms peckham.com)

5 Illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas; Reebok; Getty; Alamy

Three times a raver

There are only a few weekends of official summer raving time left. Make the most of them at The Magic Roundabout’s triple whammy of parties: Friday disco funk with Preloaded, electro dance with CTC on Saturday, and house and techno from Oscuro to round off on Sunday. Free entry. 18-20 August (magicroundabout.co)

She’s electric

Tiësto meets Tchaikovsky as electro DJ Kate Simko brings her incredible London Electric Orchestra to Camden’s Jazz Cafe: a quartet of harp, violin and two cellos (above, with Simko, centre) blending classical strings with serious synths and electro beats. Beethoven, eat your heart out. Tickets from £10. 24 August (thejazzcafelondon.com)

Art after hours

Sorry Ben Stiller: Night at the Museum has nothing on the Royal Academy’s hedonistic late-night lock-in, The Other Paradise — an immersive recreation of Paradise Lost with DJs, life drawing and some epic fancy dress. Tickets from £45. 19 August (royalacademy.org.uk)

tower power

Greatest hits

Karlie, Gigi (right), Jourdan… if boxing’s good enough for the Victoria’s Secret girls, it’s good enough for you. Hit Virgin Active Barbican’s new Punch class for an hour of intense bagwork and HIIT, and you’ll be an Angel in no time. (virginactive.co.uk)

last chance: Head to Picasso: Minotaurs and Matadors

at the Gagosian to explore the cubism master’s obsession with bullfighting and mythic creatures before it closes on 25 August. (gagosian.com)

Cult dark fantasy film alert: The Dark Tower is an adaptation of Stephen King’s series of the same name, in which the last Gunslinger (Idris Elba, left) has to save the world from the Man in Black (Matthew McConaughey). Out 18 August

Hoovering up boredom

Confiscate the iPad and take kids bored with the school holidays to the Dyson Demo store on Oxford Street, where budding engineers can learn to make balloon kebabs and construct bridges out of spaghetti. Free. Until 20 August (dyson.co.uk)

look ahead: The marvellous Quo Vadis & Friends

lunch series continues, as Andrew Clarke cooks a duck-centric feast and wine flows amply. 26 August (quovadissoho.co.uk)

18.08.17 es magazine

upfront Laura Craik on kaftan mania, that angry jogger and J-Law’s Vogue cover

running rage The video clip of the male jogger who shoved a female pedestrian into the road on Putney Bridge remains as shocking now as when it was first released last week. Had it not been for the quick reflexes of the bus driver, the woman would surely be dead, instead of merely shaken. I don’t know why the incident upset me so much — we’re all guilty of jostling past people on busy pavements — but this happened at 7am when the street was almost empty. Jogging is supposed to help alleviate anger-management issues, not make

es magazine 18.08.17

Cover-up girls: clockwise from left, Paris Hilton, Jennifer Lopez and Beyoncé

Care to bare: Alessandra Ambrosio

“By the pool, each woman observed some clandestine edict that Thou Shalt Not Be Seen Vertical In A Bikini” them worse. These random acts of rage are not what London needs — not now, not ever. These streets are for all of us. american beauty I love John Currin’s rendition of Jennifer Lawrence on the cover of American Vogue’s September issue (left), but not everyone is impressed. ‘There’s something a bit off about her,’ one user wrote on Instagram, while another opined that ‘it spoils her natural beauty’. Without wanting to be lofty, surely that’s the point. Currin makes all of his subjects look like whimsical 19th-century portraits, even his own wife. To see J-Law, one of the most photographed all-American beauties of the age, through this prism feels truly fresh, and you can’t say that about many images these days. Please, can someone launch an app that allows people to transform themselves into Currin portraits? Like a 19th-century version of a Snapchat filter? G’wan.

HOT Magpie New restaurant from Hackney’s Pidgin team. Book now before everyone gets wind (metaphorically).

NOT Comparing Victoria Beckham to 2mm thin pizza She’s taking legal action against a takeaway that used an ‘anorexic’ caricature of her to flog its pizza. Rightly so.

Josh Shinner; Spread Pictures; Eroteme; Capital Pictures

n the pantheon of overpriced holiday fashion tat, if there’s one thing that makes me rage, it’s the cover-up. And whenever these flimsy, gaudy, erroneously see-through garments are labelled ‘kaftan’, you know you’re in for a particularly onerous price hike. Burnt your tits on the beach and need urgently to shield them from the midday sun? That’ll be £650, ta. The problem is, you can’t really go on holiday without one. Well, you can, but it’ll be stressy. Transferring globs of SPF30 on to your favourite dress is less than ideal, as is the makeshift sarong fashioned out of a beach towel that falls off en route to the ladies. It’s sad, this compunction to shroud your body with a cover-up — especially on holiday, a time when you should be wild and free. Last week, I was in Cascais, shovelling hash browns and bacon on to my plate at the breakfast buffet, when I noticed all eyes were on the pert brown butt of a fellow hotel guest. She was wearing a cover-up, but a short one, her red bikini bottoms (tie-sided, for those who like detail) exposed to the room. ‘Good on you,’ I thought, lost in the rapture of her confidence. And then my youngest child loomed into view, carrying a plate of three Portuguese custard tarts, one muffin, five gherkins and a pile of capers. Later, by the pool, the cover-ups were out in force, each woman in observance of some clandestine edict that Thou Shalt Not Be Seen Vertical In A Bikini. No toilet trip was too short; no bar visit too inconsequential to preclude the need for something minging and trimmed with pom-poms. Meanwhile, the men strode around, in all their hairy-backed, potbellied glory. And yet for all the bejewelled, fringed and tie-dyed monstrosities that exist for women, no one has yet invented the maftan. I feel this is an oversight.

Therapy bands from amazon.co.uk

THE most WANTED

Join the dots: Perforated straps in leather or rubber give classic timepieces a sporty spin From top, Bremont Jaguar MKII, £5,195 (bremont.com). TAG Heuer Carrera Panda, £4,000 (0800 458 0882; tagheuer.co.uk). Oris Divers Sixty-Five, £1,450 (oris.ch). Hamilton Intra-Matic 68 Autochrono, £1,930 (hamiltonwatch.com). Breitling Superocean Chronograph 42, £4,280 (020 7499 8596; breitling.com)

PHOTOGRAPH BY natasha pszenicki STYLED BY sophie paxton

18.08.17 es magazine 11

FLASHBULB! Party pictures from around town by FRANKIE M c COY photographs by james peltekian

Sarah Ann Macklin Kara Rose

Arizona Muse and Boniface Verney-Carron

Roman Kemp

Benedict Cumberbatch

Kit Harington

James Bay Tom Hollander

Bay watch, Shoreditch

Arnold Oceng

Kaya Scodelario

Hats off to James Bay, who managed to hold back the August rain for the launch of his Topman collaboration on the rooftop of the Ace Hotel, where Vanessa White, India Gants, Toby HuntingtonWhiteley and all the other party people not sunning themselves in St-Tropez consoled themselves with a lot of Patron.

Sam Harwood

Into the wild, Oxfordshire

Diego Barrueco

Becca Dudley

Whinnie Williams

There were oceans of rain and champagne down in Charlbury, as Kit Harington, Arizona Muse and Tom Hollander descended on Wilderness festival to scoff lobster rolls in the mud, while Benedict Cumberbatch could be found in the Veuve Clicquot tent after his surprise Letters Live performance.

Max Hurd

Sam Smith Dustin Lance Black Arlissa

Alex Zane

Ella Eyre Tom Daley Zara Martin

Billie JD Porter

Naomi Shimada

What a drag, Shoreditch

Think pink — and sequins, baths full of glitter and giant inflatable lips — as YSL Beauty Club hosted a party with drag legends Sink the Pink at The Curtain hotel. Tom Daley popped in for a farewell drink before jetting off on his honeymoon, Sam Smith hogged Henry Holland’s attention at the DJ booth and Kaya Scodelario partied on until long after those inflatable lips had deflated.

12 es magazine 18.08.17

Name Herexxxx Henry Holland and Jonbenet Blonde

GO TO eveningstandard.co.uk / ESMAGAZINE FOR MORE PARTY PICTURES

Success story Can you teach someone to write a bestseller? Judging by the Faber Academy’s record, the answer is yes. With 62 publishing deals and a glittering roll call of alumni, it’s rapidly earning a reputation as the book world’s fame school. Patricia Nicol finds out its secrets

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Getty; Goff Photos

soggy, sultry Tuesday night in Bloomsbury. Inside The Plough, a traditional boozer on Museum Street, a party of damp drinkers chats animatedly. They have rushed here through a humid downpour and steam is rising off them — but so is excitement. This is their penultimate session as students on the six-month Writing a Novel course run by the Faber Academy, which is fast gaining a reputation as UK publishing’s Fame Academy. Since the creative writing school, an offshoot of the world-famous publishing house, opened its doors in 2009, 62 graduates have gone on to secure publishing deals. Its bestselling alumni include SJ Watson (Before I Go to Sleep),

Rachel Joyce (The Unlikely The January 2017 intake draws from an Pilgrimage of Harold Fry), international cross-section. I meet a Spanish Renée K night (Disclaimer), scientist based at King’s, a Moldovan selfLaline Paull (The Bees) and published author, at least five journalists, an Joanna Cannon (The Trouble with Australian investment banker and a Goats and Sheep). Canadian IT consultant. There is also Nell ‘Sixty-two publication deals in Bryden, a 40-year-old singer-songwriter, nine years is phenomenal,’ says originally from New York, who has supported Richard Skinner, the Faber the likes of KT Tunstall and Gary Barlow, Academy’s (FA) fiction director and Barbara Horspool, The White Company’s and tutor on the Writing a Novel clothing director. course, which has generated most Horspool, 59, a hugely respected figure in of these deals. He adds that not British retail with senior stints at Jigsaw, even the University of East New Look and M&S behind her, claims ‘this Anglia’s MA, the UK’s bestwas never on the agenda’. She applied at the established creative writing course last minute after being inspired by her since the 1970s (Booker winners English student son’s coursework. Now she Ian McEwan, Kazuo Ishiguro gets up at 5am to write and plans to continue and Anne Enright, as well as 2017 meeting up with her fellow Faber students. Baileys winner Naomi Alderman, ‘It has stretched — and, at times, petrified — studied there), or the Iowa me doing this,’ she says. Writers’ Workshop, the worldA week later I return to The Plough, now celebrated literary launch pad full of British Museum tourists navigating a featured in the fourth series of pub lunch, to meet Chloé Esposito and Lydia Girls, can claim an equivalent hit Ruffles, close friends from the 2015 course rate over the same period. and two of Skinner’s most successful recent Among the students clustered graduates. In April 2016 Esposito, 33, a at the bar, the talk is of how bereft former English teacher turned management they feel that their 28-session consultant, became the sensation of the course costing £4,000 — which London Book Fair when her ‘clit-noir’ trilogy, entails a weekly evening class Mad, Bad and Dangerous to Know, amassed and one Saturday a month, international advance deals of more than covering topics such as character £2 million. Mad came out in June. Universal and setting — is drawing to a is developing the films. close. Ana Garcia, a 36-year-old For 36-year-old Ruffles, whose last job documentary-maker writing a was in corporate communications, the revenge story set in Gibraltar, Faber course has proven one of her signed up on maternity leave. life’s most ‘formative, positive ‘For that time every week no experiences, akin to university or a one calls me mum,’ she says. first job’. Her young adult debut, ‘We are all here as writers.’ The Taste of Blue Light, partially For SJ [Steve] Watson, who, in inspired by her own experiences of 2009, took a punt on the first FA novelsynaesthesia, will be published by writing course, that ‘permission to Hodder in September. But she didn’t think of yourself as a writer was quite just find the impetus to sustain a story Chloé a profound thought. You get so many idea she’d had on the course — she Esposito messages that writing is a waste of also found her tribe. ‘ The time and you’re never going to get atmosphere in our first class was published — and if you do get electric,’ she recalls. She shows published then there’s no money us her forearm: ‘Look, it has SJ Watson in it. I just thought if I’m going to given me goosebumps just have a proper stab at this then I remembering it.’ need to give it energy and time.’ She and Esposito, who On the course, he began his meet regularly for ‘writing ‘domestic noir’ psychological dates’, are part of a particularly thriller Before I Go to Sleep, impressive FA cohort. Felicia which went on to become Yap’s highly anticipated 2011’s must-read debut, a dystopian novel, Yesterday, was global bestseller and a published this month, and Sam movie starring Nicole Hepbu r n’s p sycholog ic a l Kidman and Colin Firth. thriller, Her Perfect Life, came Rachel Joyce

18.08.17 es magazine 15

Faber Academy head, Ian Ellard

out in the spring. ‘We were so gutted when the course ended we just kept on meeting up every week,’ says Esposito. This seems to be the norm. Eight years on, Watson still meets up ‘regularly as friends’ with his class. ‘By week three we completely trusted one another.’ Ian Ellard, the 31-year-old FA head, explains that creating this camaraderie is an aim of the selection process. ‘The whole thing hinges on the group dynamic,’ he says. ‘It’s getting 15 people in the room who are going to be mutually supportive, bounce off each other and create a useful dynamic of constructive criticism.’ In the past two years, the FA has increased its turnover by around 35 per cent, now welcoming around 1,400 students annually to the buzzing fourth floor of Bloomsbury House on Great Russell Street, or to log in online. Courses range from oneday introductions to poetry to four-week courses on specific skills (plot, character, setting) to 12 weeks on writing for children. Most can be booked by anyone, but the sixmonth Writing a Novel course is selective and usually oversubscribed. Applicants must provide 1,000 words of writing and ‘an often revealing’ application letter. ‘A red flag is if someone says, “I’m interested in meeting agents, getting a book deal and quitting my job”,’ says Ellard. ‘We’re not interested in people who are just in it for the end, not the process.’ There is usually a student who leaves the course, often because they have found its regular peer review element too robust.

ublishing is a tumultuous business, awash with many high-profile misses. Ellard assures me the Faber Academy ‘is not a cash cow’, but admits it was launched as part of ‘a very deliberate effort’ by the august literary publisher of TS Eliot, Sylvia Plath and Seamus Heaney to diversify its business offering. Plenty of other academic creative writing courses have burgeoned, too, but Faber has the brand, the Georgian HQ with a literary heritage, a course structured to fit around working students’ lives and proven access to industry insiders. Aspiring literary novelists should, however, take note that so far only one Faber alumni novelist — crime writer Cal Moriarty — has been signed to Faber itself.

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Book and cranny: one of the creative spaces at Faber

Laline Paull

Lydia Ruffles The write stuff: two Faber Academy success stories

‘Faber and the Academy are reputation businesses: we have to ensure we don’t give anyone false impressions,’ says Ellard. ‘The Academy reflects the Faber heritage by aiming to be the best creative writing course in London and by making sure there are 35 agents in the room at the end-of-thecourse showcase.’ The Academy has forged its enviable reputation fast. Its end-of-course anthologies readings are taken seriously and its showcases are a hot ticket: Esposito was offered representation by 21 agents after reading at hers. ‘You can see from the books that have done well that you don’t just go into a grinder and come out looking like all the other sausages,’ says Ruffles, explaining why she chose the course.

good. They are properly smart about encouraging their authors to write full works and not just three brilliant chapters.’ She worries, though, that heady talk of seven-figure deals for debuts obfuscates the fact that London remains awash with failed and financially struggling novelists — and that the market for serious literary fiction, especially, is shrinking. There is also the question of whether you can actually teach someone to write. ‘In my heart, I still believe that you can develop your work and become better, but a terrible writer can’t be taught to become a great one,’ says Summerhayes. All agree, however, that if literary alchemy is possible, then Skinner is the man who could probably turn base metal into glittering prose. Esposito describes him as ‘a legend’. For his part, he says: ‘The course isn’t prescriptive. You have to write “The atmosphere in the book that’s inside you, not the one you our first class was think others want you to write or the electric… Look, it has marketplace wants. We say, try and write given me goosebumps something that you know will never be published and you might stand a chance of just remembering it” being published.’ It is not the only place offering the write The deals keep on coming for Faber stuff. UEA continues to produce prize- alumni writing high-concept commercial/ winners, while, back in London, Birkbeck literary fiction. Nick Clark Windo’s and Goldsmiths MAs are respected. futuristic thriller, The Feed, will be published Meanwhile, the Curtis Brown Creative in January next year, but a major television course, set up by the leading literary agency series is already in development. Sceptre is in 2011, has so far helped 32 authors towards banking on Rachel Heng’s Suicide Club publishing deals, including Jessie Burton being next summer’s hit. For Watson, for the blockbusting historical novel the course was the right thing at the right The Miniaturist. At £2,990, its sixtime, though he knows others who got less month course is much cheaper than out of it. Faber’s. It has also just launched ‘For me it was really special,’ a means-tested scholarship, Faber Academy he says. ‘Even if you take away tutor Richard sponsored by Faber alumna what happened with the book, Skinner Felicia Yap. The FA has it led me to discover who I really received some criticism for am, to be honest about what I being priced too exclusively and wanted to do with my life and admits previous efforts to promote to solidify ambitions I had access have foundered. almost not dared to have. Cathryn Summerhayes, an Even now, I would do it again agent at Curtis Brown, says: ‘The in a heartbeat.’ Barbara Faber quality filter is really (faberacademy.co.uk) Horspool

real

Go with the faux: Hannah Weiland outside her Notting Hill mews house, wearing a Shrimps coat and her recent shoe collaboration with Ganni, available 21 August

the

deal

Hannah Weiland was a student when she began making her colourful faux fur coats. Now her label Shrimps is a global hit, loved by everyone from Kate Moss to Dame Natalie Massenet. Katrina Israel meets the first lady of fluff PhotographS BY chris tubbs

Getty; Kensington Laverne; Rex; make-up by Sam Basham using Charlotte Tilbury

urled up on a comfy striped linen sofa in the window of her Notting Hill mews house, wearing a moss green silk blouse designed by herself and a pair of silk Ganni trousers, Hannah Weiland, founder of Shrimps, is recalling the moment she discovered the teddybear-soft faux fur that is now her signature. ‘You blow on fur to test if it is real,’ she says of her fateful first encounter with the sample while studying at the London College of Fashion. ‘If it goes into a circle and sort of parts, it’s meant to be real. But I was doing the test and I was like, “What? It can’t be real?!” It’s definitely not real, but it is just such good quality.’ That was four years ago, in 2013. Weiland and Today, as Peta’s campaign against Alexa Chung wearing fur rages on, the 27-year-old’s cult-issue London brand has women of all ages and vocations rugging up in her hyper-hued, guilt-free coats. ‘I never wore real fur,’ maintains the passionate animal lover, who is also allergic to the real deal. ‘I think people do because they don’t know the faux furs that are out there.’ With each season, Weiland is building on her first love of outerwear, exploring new techniques from mock Mongolian shearling to printed, jacquard, velvet and even crochet fur effects. ‘I’m so the person at a party who is boiling hot because she doesn’t want to take off her coat,’ she laughs. She has also since moved into a full ready-towear offering that includes soft tailoring, prim tea dresses and quirky knitwear. She sources her fur mainly from China, while her pieces are made all over the world — Portugal, London and Lithuania to name a few. For AW17

she’s also done a shoe collaboration with Copenhagen’s Ganni. ‘I love Scandi design against something quite wacky and British,’ she says of the resulting shaggy slippers. The second eldest of four children, Weiland grew up between Maida Vale and a country house in Bradford on Avon, where her love of animals was indulged. ‘I was obsessed with ducklings, bunnies, guinea pigs, hamsters,’ she smiles. ‘I would just get itchy eyes.’ Her father Paul Weiland is a film and ad director, while her mother Caroline Weiland was a producer when they met, later did a masters in psychology, and is now specialising in bereavement. ‘She works at St Mary’s in intensive care. It’s really hard. I don’t know how she does it,’ she offers softly. ‘You can see Grenfell from here,’ she adds, pointing up towards her roof deck. ‘We saw it burning. My parents live really near it; they were up all night, they saw people in the windows… My mum is now counselling people. It is so, so close to home.’ Having studied art history at Bristol University and then surface textiles and design in London (she cites Yayoi Kusama and Agnes Martin as her artistic heroes),

With fiancé Arthur Guinness

18.08.17 es magazine 19

been officially ‘cut’ since she was 12, cascades to her waist. ‘It’s kind of my safety blanket. Every shoot becomes all about the hair,’ she laughs, adding, ‘I hide behind it. I’m like, “Would you like more hair?”’ She imitates Cousin Itt from The Addams Family: ‘Do you want to shoot from the back?’ She shares the house we are in with her fiancé, brewing heir Arthur Guinness (‘I surprised him with a trip to Venice and he trumped my surprise with the engagement’), and Lionel McGr uff, thei r two -yea r- old, Above, Shrimps’ AW17 hypoallergenic poodle. Perfectly on brand, the collection; below, notable “I’m so the fans of the brand kitchen and living room have been freshly person at a party painted a soft shade of Shrimps pink. As we who is boiling Renée talk, the front door bursts open and in strides Zellweger hot because she Lionel with Guinness trailing behind. ‘Oh for in Bridget Jones’s goodness sake, he’s had his hair cut because he doesn’t want to Baby was too hot, but he looks hilarious,’ she winces. take off her coat” ‘He’s my mascot, but he doesn’t usually look so camp. You’re not going to be on Instagram for a while with your bad hair,’ she laughs. During the week Golborne Road is Weiland’s stomping ground, while her studio is in Kensal Rise. But on the weekends you’ll find her walking Lionel at Wormwood Scrubs. ‘It is a little bit of the countryside in London,’ she explains, also owning up to a love of Guinness — as you might expect — at The Cow pub in Notting Hill. Indeyarna Weiland interned for Betty Jackson and often assisted her Will she be around for Carnival? ‘I’m going to Dublin Donaldsongodmother, stylist Rebecca Hale, who was the costume to visit Arthur’s granny,’ she sighs. ‘I’ll miss it for the first Holness as Saffy’s designer for Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie — ‘Now she’ll time, which I’m really sad about. It’s literally impossible daughter ring me and be like, “You’ve got to come and see this not to have a party here because our road becomes a safe in Ab Fab vintage stuff I’ve found.”’ Her first break came when road.’ (She explains ‘safe road’ as ‘when they arrest people ‘Natalie Massenet chased Laura Bailey down the street to this is where they bring them to be searched.’) ‘So last ask, “Where’s your coat from?”’ she recalls of her debut year we had a really big party and the policeman was like Breton-striped design. That kerbside encounter combined our doorman. I am sad to miss it this year but we have with many more frow sightings (Alexa Chung, Lily Allen also just painted and I feel like the house needs a break.’ Dame and Kate Moss were early fans) saw Net-a-Porter promptly As, she says, does our city. ‘London is the most amazing Natalie put in an order. ‘They were like, “We don’t care what place. The day the Brexit [vote] happened I felt like there Massenet season this is, we want it as soon as possible.” It was slightly was a dark cloud hanging over everyone. But it’s so mad,’ she says of the summer drop. ‘But we sold them.’ multicultural and amazing, I don’t think that will change. A cameo appearance on Saffy’s daughter in Ab Fab But it’s a weird time.’ Not that Weiland is content to take was great for business, but the brand got even more air a back seat. Ahead of the last election, she teamed up with time in Bridget Jones’s Baby on Renée Zellweger. ‘Laura jeweller Dominic Jones to get behind the ‘Use Your Bailey again,’ she says. Bailey’s partner Eric Fellner Voice’ campaign that targeted the youth vote by produced the film. ‘That was amazing because she wears designing artwork for social media. it for about 20 minutes.’ Niche no longer, Shrimps now ‘He got amazing designers, public figures and has more than 90 stockists — from Dover Street Market artists to do an Instagram post about getting Laura Singapore to Opening Ceremony in LA — and turnover people to register to vote,’ she says of the digital Bailey has seen double-digit growth year on year. push that went out to her 100,000 followers, and Now, of course, Weiland is an LFW mainstay, while was supported by peers Simone Rocha and Charles Susanna her fashion crew includes Molly Goddard, Ashley Jeffrey. ‘Then the young people really came out Lau Williams and Pixie Geldof. ‘Hannah is wonderfully joyous and voted. Dom was like, “Was it us?” I think we and such fun to be around,’ enthuses the latter, ‘and these made a difference, and that feeling was amazing,’ are qualities that are mirrored beautifully in her work. she beams. She’s a great friend, incredibly talented and a taco Animal rights, the right to vote: all in a day’s enthusiast! Plus she looks like an actual mermaid.’ This is work for Hannah Weiland. true. Her long, softly waved blonde hair, which hasn’t (shrimps.co.uk)

18.08.17 es magazine 21

WEEKDAY hair pin, £8 (shop.weekday.com)

STYLE NOTES What we love now EDITED BY KATRINA ISRAEL

IT’S A LOCK-IN… Move over Constance, Hermès has a new shoulder bag — the Verrou

Everyday HIGH

H&M’s high-street sibling Weekday opens its first London store on 18 August at 226 Regent Street, with brands such as Timberland, Eastpak and Dr Martens stocked alongside classic denim and its directional in-house edit.

This is a swathe of

HERMÈS Verrou bag, £12,370 (hermes.com)

InSTARglam WEEKDAY jacket, £55 (shop. weekday.com)

Glued to a desk while your peers gallivant about the continent? This feed, curated by art director Anna Rhodes, will widen your deskbound creativity. @referencebank

WEEKDAY dress, £90 (shop. weekday.com)

Caroline SciammaMassenet

SKIIM skirt, £1,405 (skiim-london.com)

Illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas

Leather LIGHT

‘My ready-to-wear vision for leather is very much like a second skin,’ explains former model, stylist and leather lover Caroline SciammaMassenet of her new Paris-London brand SKIIM. ‘I want to bring an elegance and that feeling of SKIIM skirt, £585 (skiimlightness to leather, whereby a shirt can be london.com) easily tucked in and look like cotton or silk.’ The one-time French Vogue contributor’s influence stems from the Gallic cinema of top, £350, at the Sixties and Seventies, and her debut collection MANDKHAI Fenwick (020 7629 9161) is available at Browns and skiim-london.com now.

OUT OF MONGOLIA

It may still be warm outside, but you won’t want to be left out in the cold when Mongolian designer Mandkhai Jargalsaikhan’s latest collection drops at Fenwick this month. Produced in her family’s factory — one of the first businesses to open in post-communist Mongolia — it unites the softest cashmere with a serious dose of London cool.

18.08.17 ES MAGAZINE 23

MEN’S STYLE What to buy now

Big Ben’s bit on the side

by TEO VAN DEN BROEKE, style director OF esquire UK

Grandaddy cool

I’ve been a fan of grandad collar shirts for a good few years now, even going to the lengths of cutting the collars off classic shirts when I couldn’t find the style I wanted in the shops. Now, fortunately, the brands have cottoned on to the brilliant insouciance of collarless shirts. They are ideal for fairer weather, as the style suits a boxier, looser cut and looks far better with a few buttons undone; buy yours in linen or cotton and wear with wide-legged trousers and sandals (Peshawar ones from Manolo Blahnik, if possible).

oliver spencer shirt, £95 (oliver spencer.co.uk)

Ben Machell finds gold in London’s precious, small pleasures

Officine Generale shirt, £210, at mrporter.com

Solid Homme shirt, £280, at harveynichols.com

Street Smarts

If the fly-away success of ultra-hip brands Supreme and Palace is anything to go by, skateboarding is the fashion world’s outdoor pursuit of the moment. Valentino’s new Flycrew sneakers are a case in point. Featuring a flat, hi-grip sole, the new shoe is available in several jewel tones of suede or classic white leather, and each pair comes finished with the brand’s iconic studs at the back. Probably not for actual skateboarding though. Valentino Flycrew sneakers, £445 (valentino.com)

Jonny Cochrane; Josh Shinner

working out fine

Of all Milan’s big-name designers, it would be fair to say that British-born Neil Barrett has carved out the strongest niche. He was doing athleisure before athleisure was even a thing, and has now unveiled a brand new activewear range, Blackbarrett. The collection Blackbarrett gillet, £489, at includes a host of monochromatchesfashion.com matic, hi-tech windbreakers, sweat-wicking joggers and understated sports leggings. It’s all very Jamie Dornan in The Fall. In a good way. Blackbarrett T-shirt, £162, at matchesfashion.com

ondon is a city of big sights and big pleasures. This is, at least on some level, why so many of us are here: the guaranteed endorphin hit of a particular sweeping view or busy street or piece of monumental architecture. You don’t have to look very hard to find things that turn you on round here. And this is a good thing. I mean… duh. Only the longer I live in London, the more I realise that these big pleasures are not everything. Sometimes you want something smaller, more fleeting, more personal. Now and then you just need the occasional pick-me-up rather than something more seismic. But what? Well take, for example, the food hygiene ratings you see in restaurants and takeaways. For some reason I always take particular pleasure in spotting a four out of five. There’s a quiet nobility there. Five out of five is psycho clean. But four? Four is relatable. And in any case, I want my food prepared somewhere that still has a hunger for hygiene, rather than somewhere that has potentially become complacent.

“I never fail to enjoy the sight of a female vicar smoking a fag” I also like, when walking along London’s canals, to overhear people correctly explaining how locks work. You’d be amazed how many people you hear failing to understand these pieces of engineering. It’s excruciating. So catching someone who knows the score puts a real spring in my step. I feel a genuine buzz when I notice my bus driver is wearing fingerless gloves and wrap-around sports sunglasses, because you know you’re in the safest of hands — and, speaking of buses, it always makes me happy to spot an adult pedestrian making a funny face at a bored child on public transport. Costs nothing, does it? I never fail to enjoy the sight of a female vicar smoking a fag. I’ve got no idea why this is, but I spotted one at Westfield a few months ago and it made my entire day. My heart sings at the sight of a taxi from a faraway town — Portsmouth, Wakefield, Cardiff — inching through central London. There’s always a story there. Some desperate mad dash to a wedding or a flight or something mysterious that has to be worth the fare. I always root for them. Go on. Godspeed. So there you have it. I might seem weird but I am, walking around town, usually remarkably happy. I’ve got loads more of these. Perhaps you do too? I’d love to hear them. I genuinely would.

18.08.17 es magazine 25

Definitely MABEL She may be the daughter of Neneh Cherry and Massive Attack producer Cameron McVey, but Mabel is making her own way in the music world. She talks to Hamish MacBain about childhood anxiety, being pals with Skepta and why she wants to be as big as Beyoncé PhotographS BY Luke & Nik stylED BY Sophie Paxton

s we walk through the streets of Brixton, looking for somewhere quiet to talk, one of the first things that becomes apparent about Mabel McVey — black Old Skool Vans, black leggings, black Nike sweater, Louis Vuitton backpack — is that she is bilingual. When we are chatting about her love of Drake and Beyoncé (at the shoot earlier, she sang every word to her fifth album), it is in English. But when she breaks off to talk to the lady accompanying her — who turns out to be her aunt-slash-housemate-slash-travel companion, or ‘my auntie-mother-sister’ — it is in Swedish. The way she switches between these two tongues is so seamless that at first it feels almost conspiratorial, as if the Swedish is for stuff that Mabel — professionally it’s just ‘Mabel’; you know, like ‘Beyoncé’ — does not want me to hear. In truth, though, it is just representative of her international — and very impressive — heritage. Her mother is double Brit-winning, Ivor Novello and Grammynominated Swedish pop icon Neneh Cherry, while her father is Cockfosters-born producer Cameron McVey, who has worked with the likes of Massive Attack and Portishead (as well as on all of Cherry’s music), and who, in the course of growing up, Mabel realised was ‘a genius’. ‘When I was in my teens, and was like, “I really want to do music”,’ she says, as we settle down with a cup of mint tea, ‘I felt quite embarrassed by being my mum and dad’s daughter. I thought, “People will never take

26 es magazine 18.08.17

me seriously.” But actually, the older I get, the prouder I become of the things they’ve accomplished. Like, my mum’s sung for Nelson Mandela, and my dad produced one of my favourite albums of all time [Massive Attack’s debut, Blue Lines]. Mabel, 21, does not really need to worry about existing in her parents’ shadow. Her family ties must have helped — but she has her own, entirely self-constructed career. Her music is a 21st-century take on the Nineties R&B that she and her sister, Tyson, seven years her senior, bonded over when she was young — something she remains obsessed with to this day. Tomorrow, she will fly off to Portugal to shoot two videos: one for her next single, ‘Fine Line’, with rapper Not3s (whose ‘Addison Lee’ song has been everywhere this year), and another for her song ‘Finders Keepers’ (which already has nearly six million plays on Spotify). In April, she went to Coachella with her friend Skepta — ‘Skep’, as she calls him. Coachella, she says, was fun, although she felt somewhat perplexed by the fact that it all seemed to be ‘about “being on the scene”, or “having the right wristband”.’ This is the opposite of what Mabel is about. You might be able to find pictures of her, with her mother, on the front row of Stella McCartney’s Paris Fashion Week show in 2014 (‘My mum’s friend,’ she shrugs when I bring it up), and her family may be close to the likes of the Olivers (as in Miquita) and the Aboahs (as in Adwoa), but she is

ACNE STUDIOS jacket, Â£1,075 (acnestudios.com)

18.08.17 es magazine 27

CÉLINE cape, £2,510; earrings, £345 (celine.com)

“I’m not going to lie, I’d love to win a Grammy. Underground isn’t the word I’d use to describe my childhood dreams”

28 es magazine 18.08.17

dead set against the idea of life as just another famous person’s daughter. Asked who her friends within music are, she cites fellow cool, new-R&B singers Jorja Smith, Ray BLK and Raye (‘People might expect us to compete, but we have all taken the initiative to reach out to each other’). In fashion, she says she has ‘a good relationship’ with Christopher Shannon. While she was in LA she worked on new songs with Kid Harpoon, an English singer-songwriter who has teamed with the likes of Florence Welch and Harry Styles, and with whom she has ‘a lot of fun. And then the songs happen occasionally.’ A self-confessed ‘control freak’, she spent all of last year working with dozens of different songwriters and producers, looking for a connection. ‘Sometimes I’ll see a session on paper,’ she says, ‘and be like, “Oh, this person wrote this song for this person, I’m really excited, it’s going to be really amazing”, and then it just isn’t.’ Chemistry, she says, ‘is 90 per cent of it, and then the other stuff just happens when it happens’. As with much of her youth, Mabel’s birthplace — the mountains of Málaga, Spain — was dictated by where her parents wanted to make music at the time. She was born in early 1996, the same year that her mother released what would be her last solo album for 18 years (Man, the one with ‘7 Seconds’ on it). ‘I think she realised that she maybe missed a few things about my siblings growing up,’ Mabel says of the woman who famously performed her breakthrough hit, ‘Buffalo Stance’, on Top of the Pops while seven months pregnant with Tyson. Mabel also has a half-brother on her father’s side, Marlon Roudette, who is 13 years older than her.

er life up until the age of eight was nomadic: taking in New York (‘because my mum grew up there’), France (‘where mum had a really big song’) and west London (she still lives in their home on the Trellick Tower estate). Her father always favoured home-studio set-ups, so her very early years were soundtracked by All Saints recording ‘Never Ever’ and Sugababes making ‘Overload’ right in front of her. People such as REM’s Michael Stipe would drop by, though at the time, to the very young Mabel, these were just ‘all my dad’s annoying friends. Like, can I just get on with building this Lego?’ Despite happy memories of ‘doing Destiny’s Child dance routines in the living room’ in London with Tyson

(also a singer as part of the duo PANES), Mabel suffered from severe anxiety as a child. To help combat this, her parents encouraged her to learn an instrument (she took up the piano) and to keep journals of how she was feeling. ‘Mum has always kept journals,’ she says, ‘and she told me, “You need to be writing all of this down”. I must have been five or six when I realised all the stuff I was writing made sense with what I was playing on the piano. And that was an incredible tool for me. Any time I was feeling down, I was always just like, “Ah, go and play”. My mum would always say it was never a bad thing,’ she continues. ‘It just meant that I was open, and that I felt a lot. The older I get, the more I agree with that.’

“I wanted to do music by myself. If my parents helped, I’d never feel confident in the fact that I’m actually good” By the age of eight, though, her condition was still a big problem, to the extent that she was always ‘really nervous about getting on the Tube or buses’. The family uprooted once more and headed off to Stockholm, where Mabel ‘instantly felt safer. Just seeing other kids my age getting on the underground and stuff made me feel okay. I don’t think my parents thought I was ever going to be able to do that, but I was doing it within six months to a year.’ Enrolled as a teenager at the Swedish capital’s prestigious music school Rytmus (whose alumni include Robyn and Tove Lo), she took full advantage of the ‘unreal’ facilities at her disposal — ‘like state-of-the-art studios’ — and learnt sight-reading and production. She remained, however, ‘quite solitary’, and didn’t mix with the other students much. ‘I got on with everyone; there wasn’t any beef,’ she says. ‘But I found people my own age quite intimidating. So I focused more on my work, and writing, than I did getting to know other teenagers.’ At the age of 15, her anxiety ‘came back: so it was good for me, because at least when I was going to school I was doing something that I felt really passionate about.’ In late 2014, aged 18, Mabel returned with her family to London. Not really knowing anyone, she ‘very much had to start again. But I knew why I was here: I wanted

18.08.17 es magazine 29

the map of mabel From birth, Mabel has been surrounded by creative people in the worlds of music and fashion. Here is how they all link

M um michael stipe

Andrea oliver

du c

Pr o

u ce d

Frien d

Friend

Pr o d

Fr ie

Friend

Massive to do music, and I wanted to do it attack by myself. I felt like if my parents Fr ien STELLA d helped me, I would never feel m c cARTNEY ed Sugababes Adwoa uc confident in the fact that I’m Aboah od r P mAQUITA actually good.’ Without telling Half OLIVER brother anyone who she was, she Produced immediately started cold-calling management companies — Married ‘literally just harassing people’ eagle-eye — and eventually found someone All Saints Un cherry cle Neneh M who signed her up. u cherry m In the interest of staying busy cameron m c vey while trying to make a go of music, she assisted family friend W Madeleine Østlie at casting r wi ite s jorja th agency AAMO (set up with Adwoa smith Aboah). She began spending more harry Writes styles time in east London, going to gigs with at places such as the Moth Club, Friends/ s hanging out at house parties and oraries ite Contemp Wr ith meeting ‘quite a few cool people, w kid ray blk harpoon who were all starting their own companies. I met loads of young women doing that, which would have been quite unusual in Sweden, to be young and just out there doing it. Whereas here, there’s almost a fear that there Raye are so many other people that want to do what I want to do — so florence welch I have to be the best.’ Skepta ew She got a break when, having Cr been cajoled into doing an i-D BBK magazine shoot by Østlie (‘I’d never done anything like that, christopher Creative di shannon ever’), she caught the eye of rector Skepta’s creative director, Grace LaDoja, who asked her to come to a video shoot at the Barbican. years & years Grace ladoja Initially, Mabel was not keen — ‘those kind of things, going to a place by yourself where you don’t know anyone, were at the time my nightmare’ — but was jeans, some Air Forces’, from her point of view, was that persuaded by her sister. ‘She was just like, “Look, you LaDoja let her be herself. ‘I remember her making me feel just moved here, there’ll be loads of young people there, really strong,’ she says. ‘And there were lots of other strong probably lots of music people. You should just go. What’s young women, sort of in the same styling. It felt very the worst that can happen?”’ British. I remember feeling very proud to be from here.’ The ‘Shutdown’ video, released in April 2015, reignited Her confidence bolstered, Mabel tentatively posted Skepta’s career and helped thrust grime into the her first song, ‘Know Me Better’, on Soundcloud in July mainstream. But what was more important about Mabel’s that year. The music blogs went crazy, she had a viral hit, brief appearance in the background in ‘a red bomber, my and a week later it was being played on Radio 1, first by d

Fr ie n

Getty; Rex

To u

at e

ie Fr

18.08.17 es magazine 31

Make-up by Crystabel Riley at Stella Creative Artists using Björk & Berries. Hair by Tomomi Roppongi using Kiehl’s Since 1851. Nails by Sabrina Gayle at The Wall Group using CHANEL Le Vernis in ballerina and CHANEL Le Crème Main. Fashion assistant: Eniola Dare

MARQUES’ALMEIDA dress, £345 (libertylondon.com). CÉLINE earrings, £345 (celine.com)

Huw Stephens, then two weeks later by Annie Mac. The latter was so enthused that she made it her song of the week, and asked Mabel to come on her show for an interview (‘my first ever!’). Two months later, in October 2015 — not even a year since she’d arrived in London — Mabel was signing a record deal with a major label.

t the start of 2016, having made the longlist for the BBC Sound Of… poll, she decided to take a step back and concentrate on writing songs, with all kinds of different writers in Los Angeles, New York and London. She played a couple of small shows and a few bigger ones supporting Years & Years, worked on a video project for the opening of Tate Modern’s newest building and put out one single, ‘Thinking of You’ (which the Guardian declared ‘song of the summer’). Her plan is for 2017 to be her year — and so far it is

working out better than she expected. At the end of January, she met her current boyfriend (who she simply says is ‘super, super busy as well’ and ‘has a brand’). In March, she revealed ‘Finders Keepers’ — the result of her first ever session with Roudette. Then came the Bedroom EP in May, a sold-out show at Shoreditch’s Village Underground in June — and very soon there will be that new single, ‘Fine Line’, followed by a mixtape in September. And — finally — her album not long after. ‘I’m not going to lie, I’d love to win a Grammy,’ she smiles. ‘Underground isn’t the word I’d use to describe my childhood dreams. I definitely idolised Beyoncé growing up. I remember going to her shows and being like, “I would love to sing for thousands and thousands of people”. I’m not embarrassed to say I want to be successful,’ she continues, ‘but only on my terms.’ Mabel McVey plays at Heaven on 11 October (heaven-live.co. uk). The ‘Bedroom’ EP is out now

18.08.17 es magazine 33

The Eighties are back — and the catwalks are taking their cue from the decade that gave us Madonna’s perm and Brooke’s waterfall waves. Babyliss ambassador Syd Hayes shows you how to work the look

n d o y e B ro re t

Photographs by Jermaine Francis Beauty Editor Katie Service Fashion Styling Sophie Paxton

The crimp

‘Think of this as a modern twist on the Eighties punk girl,’ says Syd Hayes. ‘It’s important to use a strong mousse when you’re doing a deep wave like this. Take quite large sections, spraying each one with hairspray and then crimp from root to end using the Babyliss deep waver.’ Use: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Tecni Art full volume extra mousse, £10, at feelunique.com. BABYLISS Boutique Salon Deep Waves, £50 (babyliss.co.uk)

34 es magazine 18.08.17

or many of us, the Eighties is a decade of hair experimentation best forgotten, happily left in the past along with legwarmers, garish leotards and Tom Cruise in Cocktail. But according to the trendsayers of the hairdressing world, the decade’s signature waves and crinkled textures are making a comeback. At the Gucci summer show, artfully crimped bobs accompanied sweatshirts and high-tops, while at Jeremy Scott, Angie Bowie lookalikes bounced down the catwalk to ‘Personal Jesus’ by Depeche Mode. As if we needed more convincing, Gigi Hadid wowed Instagram with a Madge-style perm and Nicole Sherzinger starred in a 2017 Dirty Dancing remake. Culturally, the Eighties was a time of extremes and excesses; the City was booming, glass ceilings were being smashed and there was vast upheaval in politics. Highly stylised hairstyles exploded on to the scene in the shape of perms, mullets, scrunchies and high side ponytails. In 2017 we too are experiencing a period of political extremity and upheaval, so it’s not so far-fetched to imagine that our hairstyles might once again reflect that. There are many ways to crimp that aren’t cringe this season, explains Syd Hayes, Babyliss UK ambassador and the man behind the variety of waves in this photo shoot. Topshop Unique, for example, showcased an enviable Eighties Kylie perm with a hint of relaxed coolness in its corkscrew curls. And Hayes himself was backstage at the Fyodor Golan show, stamping single sections of hair with his crimpers for a graphic effect. Hold onto your Elnett, we’re in for a bumpy ride.

Ribbon, £6.40 per metre, at macculloch-wallis.co.uk

Give it a Twirl

‘Start with dry hair. Take small one-inch sections and wrap securely around a Tresemmé Perfectly (Un)done Wand,’ says Hayes. ‘The key to this look is brushing the initial curl out with a Mason Pearson mixed bristle brush.’ Bristles vary for different hair types. The boar bristle and nylon combination brushes are recommended for normal to thick hair. Use: BABYLISS 3Q dryer, £120 (babyliss.co.uk). TRESEMMÉ Perfectly (Un)done Wand, £25, at boots.com. MASON PEARSON bristle/nylon brush, £74, at escentual.com

18.08.17 es magazine 35

“There are many ways to crimp that aren’t cringe this season”

Carolyn Colby ring, £120 (carolyncolby.com)

Go with the Flow

‘To achieve a laid-back wave as seen in Julien Macdonald’s show, wrap hair around the barrel of a big wave wand,’ explains Hayes. ‘Pro tip: hold on to the end of your hair so that it stays out of contact with the waver. This allows the wave to stay flat and not bounce into a curl.’ Use: L’ORÉAL Studio Pro Heat it Hot & Big heat protector spray, £4.49, at boots.com. BABYLISS Big Wave Wand, £40; 3Q dryer, £120 (babyliss.co.uk)

PLEATS PLEASE ISSEY MIYAKE dress, £210, at selfridges.com. SARA ROBERTSSON earring, £310, at brownsfashion.com

18.08.17 es magazine 37

Model: Maddy Taylor at Premier Model Management. Make-up by Naoko Scintu at The Wall Group using MAC Cosmetics. Manicurist: Sabrina Gayle at The Wall Group using YSL Beauty. Hair by Syd Hayes, ambassador for Babyliss. Paper artist: Owen Gildersleeve at Grand Matter

The Mirage Movement

‘A crimp can be soft as well as graphic,’ says Hayes. ‘Try brushing it out for a hazy, more easy-going effect.’ Use: HERSHESONS mixed bristle oval cushion brush, £24 (hershesons.com). BABYLISS Curl Secret, £120; Pro crimper, £20 (babyliss.co.uk)

18.08.17 es magazine 39

feast

grace & flavour Grace Dent falls for the glorious mishmash of flavours at Tuyo in Broadway Market

“This is London: we like our menus to be unashamedly, deliciously mongrel”

Ambience food

Jonny Cochrane; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas

roadway Market has weathered a soft, yet steady, backlash for some time. Not that, as a thoroughfare, it isn’t vibrant and aesthetically cute, or that many of its locals are not splendid. Broadway Market on a quiet Tuesday evening is one of London’s loveliest places to loiter. Still, at peak times, it is also a magnet for many roaring bellends. You cannot blame this on the thoroughfare itself. It did not ask to be cluttered with affected, scrunch-faced gluten-phobic girls called Araminta every five metres clutching Butchies burgers, harvesting basic-bitch Instagram content. Broadway Market does not hope many further groups of mixedvariety wazzocks will attend again this Saturday, en route to litter London Fields with mini barbecues. When Sartre said ‘Hell is other people’, he had clearly spent more than nine minutes on Saturday at 2pm in The Cat and Mutton. But if you have visitors in town who absolutely insist on meeting there, I’ve found you somewhere great to hide with a glass of Delicant Côtes de Thau while they mooch about peering at doughnuts and salt-beef sandwiches. Tuyo is a new, gorgeous, neighbourhood-style sort of tapas bar. It is open all day. It takes reservations. It is reasonably priced. These are all notions that bring tremendous cheer to people not in the hospitality industry who simply want somewhere to go. I say it’s sort of tapas as Tuyo is a glorious European, Middle Eastern mishmash of small plates and pinchos, charcuterie and larger offerings such as sea bream with puy lentils. Tuyo actually calls itself a ‘contemporary Mediterranean kitchen’. Semantics be damned, I

tuyo 129A Pritchard’s Road, Hackney, E2 (020 7739 2540; tuyo.london)

Glasses of Côtes de Thau

Olives

Picos blue and date croquetas £6

Salt cod

Chicken thigh

Prawn and Padrón pepper

£6

Bellota burger

£6

Salmon

£8.50

Falafel

£7

Bread basket

Total

£12 £3

£9 £7.50

£4.50 £69.50

know I can’t get enough in 2017 of this Brexitboshing style of cooking, which splices Spanish flavours with Greek mannerisms, Levantine loveliness and subtle Scandic hints. Expect small, utterly desirable sweet and salty croquetas made of northern Spanish Picos blue cheese with dates, but also, on the same list, a pretty dish of dill- and lime-cured salmon with beetroot served with raspberries, blackberries and yoghurt. Yes, fish with fruit. The chicken thighs come with honeypoached apricots. Stick that up your bodywarmer, Aunty Sheila from out of town, who doesn’t hold with this foreign food. This is London: we like our menus to be unashamedly, deliciously mongrel. My abiding memory of Tuyo is that everything arrived with an extra oomph. An oily seductive puddle. A blob of something curiously sweet and sour. Those croquetas, of which I could consume a dozen, appeared with cumin aioli and roasted walnuts. A humble sounding plate of falafel arrived in a gooey mess of black olive and piquillo tapenade. I didn’t expect to love Tuyo, or really to want to review it, but it sneaked into my heart because London is full of chefs who cook with no heart, making an opera of their meagre talents. But then there are people like chef Ricardo Pimental — ex Salt Yard — doing genuinely wonderful tapas-type things at about £8 a plate. We arrived at 12.30pm on a Sunday, myself and my long enduring friend Tom, planning to have an abstemious glass of something, maybe some olives, perhaps a teensy bowl of prawn and Padrón peppers. In fairness, everyone else in Tuyo was still drinking coffee and on the breakfast menu of shakshouka, huevos turcos and the Tuyo breakfast, which features lamb merguez, duck egg and tahini. But I declared lunchtime officially open. We ordered tiny Bellota burgers; sliders dripping with agri-dolce onion and manchego. The salt cod was rather lovely, too, arriving with a garlic potato puree and festooned in coconut. I left Tuyo quite tipsy and headed to Columbia Road to buy flowers. I rail against the Broadway Market stereotypes but you must know that Grace & Flavour is absolutely one of those tossers, too.

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feast

tart london Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison churn up a cool raspberry and coconut ice cream

The Tart girls don their chef shirts to cater for an event

Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison

Josh Shinner

rtisan ice cream is really having a moment. Wherever you go in London there are wonderful, creative gelato flavours being scooped from streetfood stalls, pop-ups and quirky shops. If we had to pick our five favourite ice cream parlours in London, we’d have to say La Gelateria (for basil and chilli and the moreish salty caramel), Chin Chin Labs (for burnt butter caramel), anything at all from either the glorious Gelupo or Ruby Violet, and white chocolate from our local, Marine Ices in Chalk Farm. We can’t think of a more thrilling job than coming up with new ice cream flavours. Even the supermarkets now have a huge range of flavours and bases, from the traditional custard to yoghurt. It’s a long way from our childhoods, when Neapolitan was the most exciting tub you could buy. There are good recipes for no-churn ice cream out there, but investing in an ice-cream maker is a game-changer: all you have to do is mix the ingredients for your ice cream together and leave the rest up to the machine. After you’ve mastered the base, you can be as adventurous as you like with the flavours. One good tip if you’re using herbs like mint or basil is to infuse the cream by gently heating the two. But make sure you remove the leaves before freezing — otherwise you’ll end up with bits stuck in your teeth. Whichever flavour you choose, it’s guaranteed to impress at dinner parties.

Serves 4

raspberry and coconut ice cream

300g raspberries 150g cashews 200g coconut cream 2 tsp coconut oil 400ml tinned coconut milk 5 tbsp honey Large pinch of sea salt 1 tsp good quality vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 200C. Blend the raspberries into a puree in a food processor and set aside. Scatter the cashews on a tray and roast for 8 minutes. Leave to cool, then blitz in a blender until they become a smooth butter. Mix in the remaining ingredients and pour into the icecream maker, adding the raspberry puree at the last minute to create a rippled effect. When it’s ready, scoop generously into bowls. Anything you don’t eat will last in a container in the freezer for several months.

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HOMEWORK

Right at home: Zoe Anderson in her living room

True blue: the dining area of Zoe Anderson’s kitchen, with Tom Dixon pendant light

MS BRIGHT SIDE

Her colourful Shoreditch boutique WA Green has won cult status thanks to its feel-good designs — and Zoe Anderson’s north London home is every bit as cheering. Katie Law gets a guided tour

Hair and make-up by Yulia Yurchenko

‘I

PHOTOGRAPHs BY james gardiner

t’s all about having things that make me feel happy,’ says Zoe Anderson as she shows me around her home, a Victorian terrace in Finsbury Park. Comforting and cocoon-like, the living room walls have been painted a sumptuous green (Farrow & Ball’s Green Smoke), brightened up by Designers Guild pea green velvet curtains and a teal velvet chair, while the luxuriously long mole cotton velvet sofa from Ligne Roset was, says the owner of cult interiors shop WA Green in Shoreditch, ‘the most expensive thing I’ve ever bought, but with furniture it’s worth it’. Through stained-glass double doors is the Roundhouse-designed kitchen, glossy white units standing out against petrol blue walls, a shade Anderson copied from Yves

Saint Laurent’s Majorelle Garden in Marrakech. A large Tom Dixon copper globe pendant light hangs from the ceiling, while walls are plastered with ‘a real hodgepodge’ of pictures: posters, children’s drawings, old photographs, street art and the odd cartoon. Double doors lead out on to the decked, west-facing garden, where she cultivates oleander, lavender and herbs in large tubs against a bamboo hedge. Indoors again and Anderson takes me up a flight of black-carpeted stairs to the spare room which, she tells me, she painted top to toe in Farrow & Ball’s London Clay — a dark, earthy brown — just before she opened her shop. ‘Dopamine for the home’ is how she is branding her feel-good lifestyle

Photo opportunity: the hallway is hung with family pictures

The bedroom, with a hand-knitted throw by design duo Paris Essex

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was planted,’ says Anderson, who decided to go for it after a holiday in California. ‘I fell in love with the carefree and breezy aesthetic over there, especially the way they celebrate craft without everything having to be perfect — so I decided to Top shop: the bright do the same here.’ interior of WA Green She took over the former men’s in Shoreditch tailor’s in February and has looked on as new stores and pop-ups open every other week. ‘There’s a real appetite for I was so terrified of that whole transaction,’ interiors shops because no one can afford to she confesses, ‘but now I love it.’ She funded move. Young people especially want to the business herself, with help from her invigorate their homes and we’re presenting husband, Gavin, who is a co-founder of the a quick and easy fix here.’ Named advertising agency ThirtyThree. ‘He said, after her maternal grandfather, “Come on, just do it, I’ll support you.” He’s who ran a string of greengrocers been amazing.’ in East Sussex after the Second Crucial to Anderson’s decision to ring the World War, it’s slap-bang in the changes was the loss of their son, Sonny, m idd le of the desig n-r ich who died from lymphoma six years Shore d itch T r i a n gle, w ith ago. Diagnosed while the family, including neighbours including London their daughter, Ruby (now 15), were on College of Fashion and hip shops holiday in Italy, nine-year-old Sonny — ‘a such as Labour and Wait, SCP, massive Arsenal fan and just a really cool Monologue, Do Shop and House little kid’ — spent the next two years in of Hackney. Great Ormond Street Hospital. Anderson left school — ‘a very Spot on: the living room, ordinary comp in Seaford, East with Nizwa cabinet “I was terrified at first. Sussex’ — after her A-levels and It took me three days before went straight to work, first in I could look a customer in The garden, with potted store, which has children’s educational publishing and then plants and a fire pit just opened on branding and advertising, where she the eye. But now I love it” Charlotte Road. continued to work, taking one career Psychedelic-patterned silk cushions jostle break, until last October. ‘I felt excited ‘What I took from it is that you’ve got to for space beside buckets of faux flowers, but also bloody terrified. It was just me at keep living, you can’t just do nothing. It’s paintings transformed into wall hangings the kitchen table thinking, “Crikey, how do been incredibly hard. I also wanted to do it vie for attention with original street art, you write a business plan?” I’d always for Ruby, for her to know that, having had while kitsch ceramics share shelf-space with worked with other people, so the terror a mum at home for so long, women do work was extraordinary.’ bespoke studio pottery. and do make a difference and do keep going. Setting up her first business at the age Anderson makes a point of championing In fact, doing the shop feels so great and individual makers, and displaying unknowns of 46 has meant that she no longer has the positive,’ she says earnestly. ‘And, oh my next to big names as a way to promote them. ‘bouncy naivety’ someone younger might God, I’m so over dark colours and black Everything is set against a vibrant backdrop have. ‘And I’ve got enough worldly wise carpet,’ she says, wincing. ‘But I guess it of pink and green walls (paints are Little experience to know that if something took painting the shop pink to make me Greene’s Anita pink and a made-to-order doesn’t seem right, then it probably isn’t.’ realise that. Now I want to paint the whole emerald green, while the noisy floral She’s learning, too. ‘It took me three days house pink, too.’ wallpaper is by Silken Favours). Sure enough, before I could look a customer in the eye. (wagreen.co.uk) the feel-good factor kicks in the minute you walk through the door, as celebrity clients anderson’s five hero pieces: Clifton cotton throw by such as Kit Harington, Ed Westwick and Copper ceramic Jonathan container table with model Lily Jean Bridger — and Trippy Town Niclaus for blue glass lid by yellow Slowdown friends Cedric Christie, Sebastian Herkner cushion by Studio, £230: for Pulpo, £710: ‘He’s the Gavin Turk and actor James Silken ‘Very breezy and an next Conran of design.’ Favours, incredible way to put a Joyce — have doubtless £95: ‘I love the bit of art on your wall.’ already experienced. details of the snakes and the She had the idea for the wild colours.’ shop after failing to find the perfect present for her best Teal maplewood cabinet with friend ’s 50th bi r thday i n brass inlay from the Nizwa Mexicana painted London. ‘I bought a Cire Trudon collection by Bethan Gray, ceramic £7,500: ‘I can imagine a family arguing over candle from The Conran Shop in candlestick, £23: who’s going to inherit this piece.’ ‘A little bit of gorgeous fun.’ the end, but the seed of the idea Anderson at the door of her kitchen

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escape

Daylesford, THE COTSWOLDS

Tucked away in the rolling fields of the Cotswolds, Daylesford is the perfect tonic to the bustle of urban life. A wealth of rural skill-honing activities is on offer, from a cooking masterclass in nose-to-tail butchery, to floristry workshops for that perfect British bouquet (either that, or take in a treatment at the luxurious Bamford Haybarn Spa instead). There’s also the award-winning Daylesford Organics farmshop, whose exquisite produce forms the basis for the on-site café and restaurant menus, and attracts fans from near and far: spot Elizabeth Hurley or Kate Winslet shopping for their groceries, and sample Alex James’s dairy creations. RK Cottage sleeping five from £1,300 for a weekend (daylesford.com)

EDITED by dipal acharya

Treat yourself: the spa at Daylesford

Shepherd House, FAVERSHAM

Bland whites, be gone: the colour palette of this cosy Georgian townhouse is set defiantly to bright, with walls glowing yellow, orange and turquoise, and kitschy velvet armchairs galore. The vibe is that of staying with (very cool, very wealthy) old friends. Bottles are left in the walled garden so you can mix your own sundowner after you’ve had a long, wonderfully selfish soak in your room’s stand-alone bathtub, while your morning eggs and bacon are all locally sourced. If the smell of the home-made bread doesn’t get you up in the morning, nothing will. Don’t fill up too much though — one of the main attractions of this beautiful patch of Kentish coastline is the Michelin-starred The Sportsman down the road, a site of pilgrimage for foodies. JK Double rooms from £140 (shepherdhouse-faversham.com)

getaways to bank on

Suite dreams: No.15 Great Pulteney

Next Friday the great British public will set off en masse for a three-day weekend — make the most of it at one of these beautiful boltholes

No.15 Great Pulteney, BATH

Colour me good: Shepherd House

This is the latest boutique opening making a splash in Bath. Tucked between the smart Georgian housefronts of Great Pulteney Street (Jane Austen was a former resident), inside it’s all about modern conveniences. The 39 rooms (created by Martin Hulbert Design of Chewton Glen fame) come fully kitted out with Dyson beauty gadgets and cashmere blankets. Although the bar can attract a more raucous crowd on a Friday, the charming service and quirky interior touches (you’ll find your minibar cloistered inside a vintage doll’s house) more than make up for it. DA Double rooms from £149 (no15greatpulteney.co.uk)

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my london

goldie as told to lily worcester

Home is… Phuket, Thailand, and my wife Mika and I have a house in Hertfordshire. done for 20 years — and the sticky toffee pudding (above). They took it off the menu one year, but I complained and they put it back on. Oh, and the bang bang chicken to start. My first date with my wife was at The Ivy — I proposed to her there. She got the ring in her sticky toffee pudding.

Where do you stay in London? Sanctum Soho (left). It’s beautiful: lovely, wonderful people and great food. We base ourselves there when we go back to London. First thing you do when you come to London? Go to Bar Bruno on Wardour Street and have a good old British fry up. It’s the only greasy spoon in central London, really — the only proper greasy spoon, anyway.

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The musician tucks in to liver and bacon at The Ivy, buys his aftershave at Liberty and wants to give the Tate a paint job What do you collect? Kimonos (below), weirdly enough. I’ve got about 30. Which shops do you rely on? Liberty and Supreme. Liberty has really good aftershave. Diptyque 34 and Mr Marvelous have very beautiful smells. Last album you bought? The Epic by Kamasi Washington. A really good album. There’s a great track called ‘Re Run’ on there.

Where would you go for a nightcap? If I’m in central London, I’ll go to the Groucho and have a jar and then end up in the Library until late. I’ll have straight vodka — 42 Below — with one ice cube. Who is your hero? Pat Metheny (right). Everything I’ve been taught about arrangements in music I’ve learnt from him. Best meal you’ve had? The Ivy. I always have liver and bacon — I have

What’s your earliest London memory? Performing at Electro Rock at the Hippodrome in Leicester Square (right) in 1985 for a live recording. It was a breakdancing competition. Best piece of advice you’ve been given? From David Bowie: ‘Always reinvent yourself, sunshine.’ If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be? The Tate. I’d rock up with my paints and do some painting myself. I’d go with a [graffiti] guy called Drax because I know he can paint well; we could just paint the place all night. Goldie tours the UK from 14 Nov (goldie.co.uk/tour)

Alamy; Getty

What would you do if you were Mayor for the day? I would make graffiti (above) legal in certain areas of London; it’s not going to go away, so we should have it in areas where people will appreciate it. I think Sadiq Khan is an absolute don. He’s doing an incredible job — I think he really stands for the pulse of the youth.