EDITOR’S LETTER LAURA WEIR
Welcome to our bumper Fashion Edition — 144 pages of pure, decadent, joyous fashion — with lots to love, things to buy and pieces to treasure. Our cover star is the controversial 21-year-old model Slick Woods; sexually charged, with limitless cheek and confidence, this free spirit is wowing the fashion world with her trademark toothy grin and challenging insouciance. From political slogan T-shirts to punk riot wear, this season has a distinctive anarchic tone and Slick embodies that mood. As always, fashion is a tale of two halves, so turn to page 67 to read about the return of modesty; it’s also time to button up, hemlines are lengthening and a pie-crust collar is all the rage. Also in this issue we launch our first ES Magazine Fashion Power 100. I spent months deliberating over our list of the supremely talented individuals making planet fashion spin. We canvassed the industry, took names off and put them back on again — and the end result is our definitive list of fashion’s most important power players. Plus, of course, we’ve decoded this season’s looks so you don’t have to. There are disco shoes, plastic coats, plus mega autumn winter knits in our shoot on page 82. Ever wondered where Debbie von Bismarck buys her boho earrings? Or Simone Rocha does her weekly shop? Our favourite London fashion folk open their little black books on page 63. The fabulous Dame Joan Collins takes us on a trip through her Eighties archive and schools us in the politics of power dressing on page 37. And, to the future; for the first time our Fashion Edition is shoppable on our @eveningstandardmagazine Instagram Stories (just swipe up to buy) and our website, standard.co.uk/esmagazine. Enjoy!
EDITOR Laura Weir
COVER Slick photographed by David Roemer. Styled by Jenny Kennedy. FENDI earrings, £395; suit jacket, £2,790 (fendi.com). Necklaces, Slick’s own
1
PRADA double cashgora coat, £3,080 (prada. com)
THE COAT ‘If clothes could speak then she would be the best friend on speed dial that is ALWAYS ready for a glass of fizz and a fag on a Thursday night (it gets cold on the smoking terrace, hence the cuffs).’
4
3
THE BOOT ‘Streamlined, elegant, with a shapely almond toe, but not too sweet — these are an ideal pair of autumn boots.’
THE JACKET ‘I missed out on the Balenciaga one, but this is better: the perfect checked, double-breasted blazer with a hefty dose of nip-and-tuck in the right places.’ MULBERRY Grace jacket, £1,100 (mulberry.com)
THE TOP ‘I mainly like this top because it’s called the ‘Dave’, which makes me laugh every time I wear it to any manner of meetings — it’s a real go-to.’
ROLAND MOURET Dave top, £575, at net-a-porter.com
JIMMY CHOO Daize boot, £875, at matchesfashion.com
Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us:
@eveningstandardmagazine
THE BAG ‘Who doesn’t love a fun bag?’
PAUL SMITH Pow faux fur clutch, £275 (paulsmith.com)
2
The editor’s top five new season buys
5
@ESmagofficial
@ESmagofficial
Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Wendy Tee Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Jonny Cochrane
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large), Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
15.09.17 ES MAGAZINE 15
capital gains What to do in London
High fashion and critically acclaimed sculpture collide at Victoria Beckham’s Dover Street store, as stone sculptress Emily Young collaborates with her highness on an installation of jewels and stones. ‘Tiny portable sculptures,’ as Young puts it. Her jewellery (above) will also be on sale. 15 Sep to 13 Oct (victoriabeckham.com)
4
Double act
Epic London art duo and kebab connoisseurs Gilbert & George (above) take over Bond Street gallery Lévy Gorvy with The General Jungle or Carrying on Sculpting, a monumental 1971 charcoal work that confirmed their status as ‘living sculptures’ and superstars. Until 18 Nov (levygorvy.com)
victoria beckham AW17
Young and Vic
A selection from Virgil Abloh’s The Ten collaboration with Nike
JUST DO IT...
3
Sprint over to east London’s NikeLab 1948 to get your hands on the most coveted kicks of the season, as Nike teams up with Virgil Abloh (above) — much eulogised fashion designer and Kanye West’s longtime creative director — for his ridiculously cool take on 10 classic Nike sneakers, ‘The Ten’. Workshops throughout the four-day pop-up include designing your own bespoke Air Force 1s. Serious street-cred guaranteed. Until 17 Sep (nike.com)
Hazy Dukes
Escape the LFW madness and chill with a drink at Dukes London’s new restaurant GBR, where they’re pouring limitededition, sartorially twisted cocktails such as the Jimmy Shoe Sour: Midori, lemon, sugar syrup and egg white. 15-24 Sep (dukeshotel.com)
To the ’Burbs
5
Gogglebox eat your heart out: Burberry celebrates the great British way of life in all its wonderful weirdness at Old Sessions House. Curated by Christopher Bailey and Lucy Moore, the Here We Are exhibition comprises dozens of beautiful photos shot all around the UK. 18 Sep to 1 Oct (burberry.com)
6
Hill THRILLS
Handbags at dawn, as accessories brand Hill & Friends opens its first stand-alone store in South Molton Street. The House of Hill & Friends has all the signature quirky handbags you could hope for, in among life-size ostriches decorating the all-pink interior. Opens 22 Sep (hillandfriends.com)
last chance: Spot the next international art darling at the Saatchi Gallery’s START Art Fair, showcasing work from Vietnam to Argentina, before it closes on 17 September.
16 es magazine 15.09.17
2
7
Slice of heaven
What’s better than a pizza party? A pizza party with oceans of proper nice wine and ultra-chilled reggae. ‘Wine Ya Batty Up’ is Made of Dough and wine merchant Lea & Sandeman’s boozy, cheesy carbfest, and as such is the ultimate LFW unwind. Tickets £35. 20 Sep (madeofdough.co.uk)
look ahead: Box clever at Power of Boxing’s 24-hour
charity Boxathon. Sign up in a team to complete 1,440 minutes of skipping, circuits and sparring. 22-23 Sep (powerofboxing.com)
The Singing Sculputre, Sonnabend Gallery, New York, 1991 © 2017 Gilbert & George; Ken Russell, In Your Dreams, January 1955 © TopFoto / Ken Russell illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas
1
by FRANKIE M c COY
UPFRONT Laura Craik on the return of the bumbag, smudged lips and slebs’ model children
Josh Shinner; Getty; Rex, 10 Men
SMUDGE ADO Cack-handed with the lippy? Never met a lip brush you couldn’t hate? Then here’s one autumn beauty trend you can definitely get behind. I’m calling it Snogger’s Lip, because it has that muzzy outline you’re left with after a good smooch. And before you go ‘WTF?’, be availed of the fact that the wondrous Pat McGrath created this very effect for the Prada show — it also surfaced at Topshop Unique and Preen (left ). The next
Fanny-packers: A$AP Rocky, left, and Adwoa Aboah, below
LOUIS VUITTON AW17
S
ometimes I wonder what basic mass-market item we’ll lose our s*** over next. Ikea carriers have been glorified by Balenciaga. Crocs have been luxed-up by Christopher Kane. Uggs have been made over by Jeremy Scott. Julien Macdonald has even designed a limited-edition burger box for McDonald’s. If every era gets the bag it deserves, then 2017 deserves the fanny pack. I’m using the American term because it’s so pleasingly Benny Hill. Fanny pack, fanny pack, fanny pack. How do you wear yours? Like a Kentucky fried tourist lost in Leicester Square? Like a raver lost in 1993? Or maybe like Rihanna? All three are okay. Those who thought the fanny pack’s popularity had peaked in spring should brace themselves — then belt themselves with one of autumn’s new temptations. At Gucci, they were inscribed with the legend ‘common sense is not that common’ by the artist Coco Capitán, and have already sold out on Net-A-Porter, as have Prada’s genteel velvet ones. I’m loving that Net-A-Porter is calling them ‘belt bags’. How polite. This season, there is no such thing as a bum bumbag. They’re all equally fabulous. Nor do you have to channel Mr Motivator or The Rock. Although if you’re after a proper Nineties throwback, try Moschino’s gold-lettered one, a dead ringer for the ones my skint friends and I coveted back in the day. To look modern, make like Adwoa Aboah, who wears her black nylon Prada bumbag strapped over one shoulder, facing front. You could also wear it like a belt, maybe cinching in the waist of a trenchcoat, if you have a waist to cinch. I’m more likely to wear mine like A$AP Rocky, snuggled strategically over my gut as camouflage. A$AP’s Balenciaga bag is my fave. Think of all the Wotsits you could store inside. Crisp hoarder or not, there has never been a better time to ditch the handbag/rucksack/other invitation to get robbed for the hands-free, zippered security of a fanny pack. The perfect London bag is here.
Bum couture: from top, Moschino, Gucci and Prada
“I’m more likely to wear my bumbag like A$AP Rocky, snuggled strategically over my gut as camouflage” time you try to apply make-up in the back seat of an Uber, with a toddler clinging onto your leg, simply apply your lipstick with your finger — sans mirror if needs be — and fret not if you overshoot your lip line, coz that’s the point. MODEL SON In this week’s edition of Celebrity Model Offspring, we bring you Bruno Cowen, the 17-year-old son of Emma Balfour and cover star of 10 Men’s new autumn/winter issue (below). For those not up to speed on the subject of seminal Nineties fashion shoots, Balfour was a kind of Aussie version of Rosemary Ferguson, but less smiley — the sort of model the tabloids would urge to ‘cheer up’. God, I miss the days when models had characterful lips, not generic pillows. No offence to Kaia Gerber, Gene Gallagher, Iris Law and Romeo Beckham, but Bruno is my fave CMO so far.
HOT MATCHES FASHION.COM From a small Wimbledon store in 1987 to an £800m mega-business. Way to go, Tom and Ruth Chapman (above).
NOT DRESSING DOWN ‘I’m not as casual as some people, but I guess I could be,’ Mariah Carey told Vogue. Nooo, Mariah, don’t change.
15.09.17 ES MAGAZINE 19
THE most WANTED catwalk kicks: Unveiling Topshop’s diamanté delight, which lands online minutes after its LFW debut
Topshop Gem sandals, £89, available 4.30pm on 17 September (topshop.com)
PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN GRIBBEN STYLED BY SOPHIE PAXTON
15.09.17 es magazine 21
TRENDWATCH Disco shoes
NEAT PLEATS The midi skirt is racking up the style miles. Embrace granny chic with socks and heels.
EDITED BY ENIOLA DARE
CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS earrings, £300, at neta-porter.com
GUCCI skirt, £1,220, at matchesfashion.com
HOOPLA Do the loop-the-loop with a modern trio of precious metals. DISCO FEVER Cap off the night in a gold Lurex singlet.
RING TRUE Own the night with this pavé set half-moon crystal.
BA&SH top, £120 (ba-sh.com)
SWAROVSKI ring, £99.99 (swarovski.com)
DAKS hat, £65, (020 7409 4040)
HOT HEAD The beanie remains the season’s hat trick. DIESEL jacket, £280 (diesel.com)
ISABEL MARANT shoe, £490 (isabelmarant.com)
RAEY sweater, £535, at matches fashion.com
CREATURE COMFORTS The oversized jumper is the season’s knit pick.
Get back on the dance floor with these encrusted pumps that are just asking to be the life of the party FRENCH CONNECTION watch, £69 (french connection.com) H&M bag, £29.99 (hm.com)
MANGO earrings, £12.99 (shop. mango.com)
Natasha Pszenicki
TICK-TOCK Keep track of time with this minimalist mesh watch.
ALL THAT GLITTERS Dazzle from the ankle down with these sparkling socks.
ELIZABETH & JAMES hair pin, £155, at net-aporter.com
PIPE DREAM Elevate your ponytail with a golden pin that transforms flat hair.
OLD FAITHFUL Channel Madonna circa ‘Material Girl’. Just make sure your denim jacket is XXL.
SUNNY SIDE UP Saddle up to the office with this City-issue carryall.
EAR CANDY Rev up for the evening with a pair of shouldergrazing tassels.
MONKI socks, £5 (monki. com)
15.09.17 ES MAGAZINE 23
ALIGHIERI earrings, £210 (alighieri.co.uk)
trendwatch Blazer trail
INTIMISSIMI bralette, £42 (uk.intimissimi. com)
Rough Cut Refresh your jewellery box with coarse textures that hark back to the hip-hop scene. Hotstepper Relax smart tailoring with some high-spec trainers.
Ace of Lace A flirty bra top completes the look.
Lion Heart Let your personality roar with a ring that tells your story.
FOUNDRAE ring, £2,330, at brownsfashion. com
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI trainers, £495 (giuseppezanotti.com)
Silk Sensation Round out your look with this unstructured tote.
Punchy Pairings Close the gap with these fierce knee-high boots that are ready for action.
MARINA RINALDI bag, £239 (gb.marinarinaldi.com)
MARQUES‘ALMEIDA jacket dress, £835 (marquesalmeida.com)
The skirt suit and tuxedo have morphed into the season’s ultimate day-to-night dress. Who doesn’t need one of these elegant overachievers in their wardrobe arsenal?
HILLIER BARTLEY pin, £195, at neta-porter.com
MICHAEL KORS watch, £195 (michaelkors. co.uk)
Safety First Pin everything together with a statement brooch that will enliven your lapel.
LONCHAMP purse, £270 (uk. longchamp.com)
Investment Banking Upgrade your wallet. This perforated purse is a solid gold style statement.
Base Camp Build strong foundations with a winter white turtleneck that will guard you from the cold. WINSER LONDON roll-neck, £185 (winserlondon.com)
Horology Hero Lock down some time and spruce up your wrist.
MARQUES‘ALMEIDA AW17
Natasha Pszenicki
KENZO boots, £1,195 (kenzo. com)
15.09.17 es magazine 25
BIRKENSTOCK sandal, £105 (birkenstock.com)
trendwatch Bags and boho
soft landing Who knew these slides could get more cosy?
BURBERRY sunglasses, £176, at sunglasshut.com
Black Out These thick Perspex frames will mercifully conceal the night before. Praise be.
cash and carry Hold up to four currencies in this ingenious wallet so you can shop till you drop on any continent.
All-in-one The bodysuit makes a shimmering comeback tucked into wide-legged trousers or under overalls.
SMYTHSON cardholder, £215 (smythson.com)
LINKS OF LONDON bracelet, £225 (linksoflondon.com)
LINKED IN Style this golden band over the cuff. AGENT PROVOCATEUR bodysuit, £1,295 (agentprovocateur.com)
Gold Seal Add a nautical twist with these gilt looped studs. MULBERRY bag, £895 (mulberry.com)
ALEXA CHUNG dungarees, £320 (alexachung.com)
Circle back to the Seventies with this vintageinspired all-rounder. The canteen bag’s silk strap is braided with metaphorical swagger Pilgrim Chic Press rewind with these regency-era flats that will take you everywhere your slippers used to.
Overall Appeal No longer reserved for the weekend, dungarees have smartened up their act.
RUSSELL & BROMLEY shoe, £245 (russellandbromley.co.uk)
Natasha Pszenicki
Standing Tall Military-inspired buttons add a sharp edge to the season’s high-waisted trews. CLAUDIE PIERLOT trousers, £260 (uk. claudiepierlot.com)
Tone Logic Colourblock your way to an on-trend winter wardrobe. Cream Sheen Layer under dungarees for country casual, or keep it classy over trousers.
Marks & Spencer earrings, £8 (marksand spencer.com)
MARNI jumper, £560, at matchesfashion.com SPORTMAX blouse, £355, at matchesfashion.com
15.09.17 es magazine 27
trendwatch Throw some shapes
JOSEPH dress, £595 (josephfashion.com)
MONCLER bag, £235 (moncler.com)
Sack it off Swap your bucket bag for the season’s slouchy sack.
Go with the Flow Shape shift with a blousy dress in a fluid fabric. The bolder the print the better.
Gold Dust Invest in your very own family heirloom. Just don’t forget to pass it on.
MM6 trousers, £405, at neta-porter.com
Button It Unexpected fastenings reinvent this beloved classic.
EMPORIO ARMANI earrings, £160 (armani.com)
PATEK PHILIPPE watch, £36,220 (patek.com)
Hang on to the pop-art movement with these abstract earrings — trade basic hoops for bold statement chandeliers Into the Fold Make tailored trousers work harder under winter’s voluminous dress. Natasha Pszenicki
Scarlet Fever Warm up directional tailoring with these high-octane heels. KURT GIEGER boots, £189 (kurtgieger.com)
HUGO gloves, £95 (hugoboss. com)
ASPINAL OF LONDON scarf, £95 (aspinal oflondon.com)
Bags of Style Go from crossbody to clutch with this multitasking sidekick.
In Hand You don’t need a royal invitation to glove your digits in supple lamb’s leather.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Horse Play These’s no time like the present to unbridle a timeless equestrian scarf.
A.W.A.K.E coat, £1,033, at matchesfashion. com
KATE SPADE bag, £178 (katespade.co.uk)
15.09.17 es magazine 29
LOEWE T-shirt, £225 (loewe.com)
MARNI earrings, £280, at matchesfashion.com
trendwatch Plastic fantastic
Turning Circles Dress up jeans with a pair of high-shine, attentiongrabbing earrings.
Suck It Retire the slogan T-shirt and replace with a graphic print. Clearly, the more abstract the better.
ECCO purse, £99.99 (gb.ecco.com)
Weekday Wallet Form meets function with this understated leather purse. PRADA cap, £250, at browns fashion.com
Bakerboy Beau Corduroy is back and this cap has plenty of 1970s street cred.
LEVI’S jeans, £110 (levi.com)
Cult Classic Peg your winter denim update to a timeless straight leg. MIU MIU coat, £1,515 (020 7409 0900)
Come rain or shine, this wash-and-wear overcoat is set to become an autumn style staple. Just Windex and go
OMEGA watch, £5,600 (omegawatches.com)
Mother of Pearl This baby blue timepiece has been a horology classic for six decades and counting.
Rigid Composure Hide your life secrets in this polished handbag.
Natasha Pszenicki
Miu Miu aw17
COACH shoe, £275 (uk.coach.com)
PANDORA rings, £35 each (pandora.net)
Ring Around Can’t pick a favourite metal? Wear all three shades at once.
30 es magazine 15.09.17
Pimp my Ride These retro loafers are elevated by a platform sole and floral appliqués. Walk on the wild side.
FENDI bag, £1,720 (fendi.com)
The Clincher Mid-rise jeans call for the return of the belt. Buckle up with some serious hardware.
RIVER ISLAND belt, £12 (riverisland.com)
STYLE NOTES What we love now
JOHN LOBB £790 (johnlobb.com)
EDITED BY KATRINA ISRAEL
House PROUD
River Island has enlisted LFW designer Ashish for its latest Design Forum partnership in an ode to beyond-the-bedroom dressing. ‘Something relaxed enough to slouch around the house in, yet stylish enough to be taken out,’ says Ashish Gupta of the capsule collection, which will debut at River Island’s LFW Festival pop-up and online from 21 September. Catwalk fashion at a highstreet snip. £30-£180 (riverisland.com)
ZARA £25.99 (zara.com)
New FOOTPRINTS Hermès-owned British heritage shoemaker John Lobb officially steps into womenswear for AW17, leading the charge for the return of the loafer as the slipper slips from favour. Time to stop stepping down on those backs, people. GUCCI £450, at net-a-porter.com ALEXA CHUNG £285 (alexa chung.com)
HERMÈS £740 (uk. hermes.com)
GOOD TASTE
Paris’s famed Costes family continues to set the style agenda for the city’s most desirable sleeping and dining destinations, from Hôtel Amour to Brasserie Thoumieux. The new tome Beaumarly Paris, from father and son duo Gilbert and Thierry, offers a decadent, designled tour of more than 20 of their much-lauded establishments. £60 (assouline.com)
Bold by DESIGN
Former jewellery PR Rena Sala has launched her own online platform curating a modern selection of her (and our) favourite independent designers, from Modern Weaving to Jessie Harris. If you’re a fan of clean lines, her sculptural edit of accessibly priced earrings, bracelets and necklaces will delight.
NEWBARK £455, at brownsfashion.com
MODERN WEAVING earring, £120, at renasala.com
InSTARglam
UNDRESSING INTIMATES
Ex-Agent Provocateur impresario Serena Rees is back with her new underwear brand, Les Girls Les Boys, which she says is an updated study of sexuality. ‘“Bed-to-street” is core to our brand philosophy, blurring the boundaries between inside and out,’ she says of her easily layered separates that span bodysuits to PJs, with a nod to Nineties minimalism. (lesgirlslesboys.com)
ZOHRA RAHMAN bracelet, £550, at renasala.com
Join almost half a million aesthetes who follow Clo Studio creative director Lauren Faye’s beautifully curated feed.
@c__l__o
PETER PILOTTO earrings, £260 (peterpilotto.com)
Interior AMBITIONS
On Monday Peter Pilotto will open a temporary space in South Kensington, stocking its AW17 wares alongside collaborations with design friends such as Jochen Holz jewellery and Martino Gamper stools. 18 September to 15 October. 3 Cromwell Place, SW7
Follow us at @eveningstandardmagazine
Hermès; Iringo Demeter
PAUL SMITH £340 (paulsmith.com)
the store
Mr Armani is building on his London foundations this month. In celebration of Emporio Armani’s first runway show during LFW on 17 September and the opening of its New Bond Street flagship store, the Milanese titan has put the winning designs from a UK fashion student competition into production as well as relaunching its in-house Emporio magazine. It was last published from 1988 to 1997 and edited by Armani’s sister, Rosanna — now Armani himself has taken up the editorial reins.
The restaurant
New hotel The Mandrake has charged Charles Pelletier and Frédéric Peneau of Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred Serge et le Phoque with the task of taking over the boutique property’s flashy Fitzrovia dining room. Get ready for octopus with preserved egg, while sommelier Bert Blaize, formerly of Clove Club, looks after biodynamic bottles. The pairing is sure to gather the fashion cognoscenti in droves. Open now. (themandrake.com)
The face
Making a stellar runway debut for AW17, Bajan British beauty Danielle Lashley (right) walked exclusively for Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton Paris show in February, followed by the house’s May resort presentation in Kyoto. With a shoot for Italian Vogue under her belt, the 21-year-old Next model (who hails from Bournemouth) will no doubt be the girl to watch during LFW and beyond.
34 es magazine 15.09.17
The book
Fashion’s favourite photographic duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott celebrate 20 years of their prolific professional partnership in a collector’s edition tome that captures the dizzying depth of their portfolio, from campaigns for Fendi and Gucci to portraits of Kate Moss (right), Lady Gaga and Madonna. Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, £450 (taschen.com)
EMPORIO ARMANI bag, £730 (020 7491 8080)
the
hit list
On the eve of London Fashion Week, Katrina Israel hails 10 new sartorial sensations, from the capital’s most fashionable openings to this season’s hottest collaboration. On your marks… Untitled 1982 by Jean-Michel Basquiat
The show
HBO’s flashy 1970s New York porn drama, The Deuce, starring James Franco and Maggie Gyllenhaal, is a must-see for the perms and body shirts alone. Disco fever reborn. Out now
The Exhibition
This autumn’s art blockbuster is the Barbican’s Basquiat: Boom for Real, the UK’s first large-scale exhibition of Jean-Michel Basquiat’s (1960-1988) work, which defined New York’s late-1970s underground art scene. Tickets £16. 21 Sep to 28 Jan (barbican.org.uk)
The Fabric
High-gloss, patent finishes are not just limited to outerwear for AW17. Sprayand-wipe surfaces are just asking to be teamed with oversized knitwear or pretty blouses for daytime.
H&M trouser,£29.99 (h&m.com)
chloÉ aw17
TIBI skirt, £590, at net-aporter.com
TOPSHOP skirt, £195 (topshop.com)
the collaboration
Get ready for Uniqlo x JW Anderson’s much-awaited collaboration, which drops in store on 19 September. ‘I wanted to try and take the essence of what we know as iconography in British culture and do something which was democratic,’ explains Anderson of his patriotic collection that includes quilted tartan puffers and classic trenches. As a long-term admirer of the brand, he adds of the project, ‘It was a no-brainer for me.’
The Hue
Daunted by London’s speedy slip into autumn? The brighter side of the season ahead is that navy is the new black, and at no show more so than Dior. ‘Among all the colours, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black,’ Christian Dior once wrote in The Little Dictionary of Fashion, a notion current artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri ran with in her inky AW17 show. Who’s feeling blue now?
victoria beckham aw17
manolo blahnik Maysale mules, £545, (manoloblahnik.com)
dior aw17
Shoe godfather Manolo Blahnik stars in director Michael Roberts’ well-heeled bioepic, Manolo: The Boy Who Made Shoes for Lizards. With cameos from Anna Wintour and Rihanna, the documentary premieres during LFW. Step into Blahnik’s shoes quite literally — specifically his re-issued Maysale kitten mules (first created for Marge Simpson for a 1991 episode) — and book a cinema seat near you. Out 29 September
jacquemus aw17
© The Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Licensed by Artestar, New York; Louis Vuitton; Mert Atlas & Marcus Piggot
The film
15.09.17 es magazine 35
Glamour personified: Joan Collins leaves Annabel’s nightclub in London, 1987
POWER HUNGRY Shoulder pads! Big sleeves! The spirit of the Eighties is back on the catwalk. About time, says Dame Joan Collins
J
Dynasty years: at home in LA in 1983
TIBI AW17
ELLERY AW17
ISABEL MARANT AW17
Rex; Getty
With Marisa Berenson in 1986, above; with goddaughter Cara Delevingne in 2014, below; and in London last year, right
ust when I thought today’s modern fashion couldn’t get any more hideous, along comes a whiff of sensibility: the return of so-called ‘power-dressing’ for AW17, à la Dynasty. So, hello and welcome back even bigger sleeves (Balenciaga, Tibi), small waists (Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant) and comfortable trouser suits (Ellery and Calvin Klein). Clothes that flatter a real woman’s body. ‘Excruciatingly tasteless’ is a common assessment of the Eighties in recent years, but I’ve always felt the decade was unfairly maligned and argue that overall, it was very becoming. Granted, Eighties fashion eventually degenerated into cartoon clothes such as floppy dolman-sleeved sweaters worn over massive shoulder pads, faux Chanel jackets covered in
15.09.17 ES MAGAZINE 37
Absolute Eighties: Collins, far right, and the Dynasty cast in 1981
“After I wore a suit in Dynasty, a producer sent me a memo to the effect of, ‘Don’t wear that again — it’s you we want to see, not your f***ing shoulder pads’”
I
n the Eighties, Dynasty became the most popular series on prime-time TV, not least because of the gorgeous and glamorous outfits created by Nolan Miller for all the actresses. I enjoyed working with Nolan, helping to create the elegant and stylish outfits for my character, Alexis Carrington Colby. When Alexis had to command groups of men, either in her office or the boardroom, she needed to look feminine but ruthless. The look empowered women and, across the world, career women were taking to tailored suits and well-coiffed, lacquered hair. Power-dressing even proved true for me in the Nineties, when I fought the Goliath that was Random House in a real-life US courtroom drama to protect my reputation as a writer, after they tried to take away an advance they had given me for a book.
STELLA MCCARTNEY AW17
Trendsetter: Princess Diana in the US, 1985, and in Hong Kong, 1989, below
was a fine line who borrowed from whom. I like to think that we collaborated in upping the stakes of that glamorous decade. That’s not to say I didn’t go too far sometimes. In Paris, I bought an extremely avant-garde suit from Pierre Cardin with I appeared each day in enormously high angel-shaped court wearing subdued sleeves that practically covered colours and sober and my cheeks. I wore the suit in an simple outfits. I looked episode of Dynasty but a problem and felt vulnerable, and emerged when I had to answer a was bullied and harassed phone, and struggled getting the by the elderly prosecutor receiver to my ear. Our esteemed (who I thought was a total producer sent me a memo the chauvinist, by the way). I next day to the effect of, ‘Don’t eventually burst into wear that jacket again — it’s Power-dressing: Collins’ tears because I felt so you we want to see, not your lawsuit victory in 1996 i nt i m id at e d , a nd I f***ing shoulder pads.’ thought I was losing the Skimming through case. The next day, a lawyer friend sugthe August issues of gested I ‘become Alexis’ both in attitude glossy, trendsetting and outfit and stand up to Mr Prosecutor, so magazines, I couldn’t I did just that. find anything to wear I put on a vibrant blue pin-striped that would suit me, so skirt suit, a statement pearl I’m delighted that choker and white, V-necked silk there is a return to sogilet and I immediately felt, and called Eighties fashconsequently behaved, confiion. I say ‘so-called’ dently and assertively. I was because all fashion is suddenly totally in charge, cyclical and, in fact, telling the old man not those broad shoulders to come near me, to stop and cinched waists intimidating me and were all the rage in overall calling the shots the Forties, as worn in the cross-examinaby legendary film stars like tion. I believed my Joan Crawford and Lauren clothes were my armour Bacall. In fact, the Forties is a and I won the case. well-admired decade fashionPrincess Diana was also wise, which is why I find it curious that at the forefront of wearing so-called fashionistas have constantly trendsetting outfits of that decderided the Eighties. ade and I must confess that I have never stopped wearing shoulder Nolan and I sometimes borpads, big sleeves and long earrings. I strongly rowed a few of her ‘looks’ from believe, as did the iconic Claudette Colbert pictures in magazines and and Bacall, that if you find a style that suits newsreels. Although since she was you, you stick with it, because fashion is given the moniker ‘Dynasty Di’, it ephemeral but style is eternal.
38 es magazine 15.09.17
BALENCIAGA AW17
bling and dozens of gold military buttons. But at least no one went out in pyjamas.
Collins with the Queen at a reception at Buckingham Palace in 2014, the year before she was made a dame
VOTING TORY
I
She’s gone from ballet flats to a billion-dollar listing, but Tory Burch isn’t stopping there. The designer tells Katrina Israel how she built a superbrand — and why she wants to help a new generation do the same
t is 10.30pm on a cool Monday night in London and Tory Burch is going all in. In spite of her floor-length embroidered sheath, she’s dancing on a banquette at Mayfair’s normally buttoned-up restaurant Isabel, as Salt-NPepa perform ‘Push It’ in front of her. Burch is in town to celebrate the launch of her Regent Street megastore, and tonight she has got her twin sons, Henry and Nick (from her second marriage, to entrepreneur Christopher Burch), along with her fiancé, Pierre-Yves Roussel (the handsome chairman and CEO of LVMH), in tow. It is not long before the boys are lured on
Tory Burch ballet flats, £260; earrings, £275; blouse, £325 (toryburch.co.uk)
to the stage at Pepa’s request. Cue raucous cavorting to ‘Whatta Man’. ‘I’m the luckiest person to have found the love of my life,’ Burch gushes to the fashion crowd that includes her friend and super-stylist Elizabeth Saltzman, Diane Kruger, Gemma Arterton and Elizabeth Olsen. More than just the hostess with the mostess, Burch is the billionaire businesswoman who has built a 200-store fashion empire from her Upper East Side kitchen table in just 13 years and shows no signs of slowing down. A few months earlier, I visit America’s golden girl
15.09.17 es magazine 41
Burch with fiancé PierreYves Roussel
From above left, the designer speaking about the Tory Burch Foundation; her new Regent Street megastore
at her polished Midtown offices as she prepares for her AW17 show. It’s a Sunday afternoon, New York is slushy underfoot, with half the subway down and the rubbish piled to head height on the pavement. On approach, all I can think is that someone needs to make America great again, and as it turns out that could well be Tory Burch. For the former fashion PR it all started at 38 with the logoed Reva ballet flat, originally retailing at $195 and named after her mother, who used to don a similar style in the Sixties. A year later Oprah Winfrey proclaimed Burch as fashion’s ‘next big thing’, resulting in eight million hits on her fledgling website the following day. ‘I wanted to design the most beautiful things we could, but I didn’t want it to cost a fortune,’ she says of her magic formula that has shaped a whole lifestyle proposition aimed at a consumer seeking luxury design at accessible prices. She has since been hailed by Forbes as the 73rd most powerful woman in the world.
Elizabeth Olsen and Diane Kruger at the Tory Burch Regent Street opening
Above, from left, Burch with Freida Pinto and Emma Roberts; and with Jessica Alba
In 2009 the 51-year-old started The Tory Burch Foundation Capital Program — something she had wanted to do from the get-go, even when being warned off using phrases such as ‘social responsibility’ and ‘building a business’ in the same sentence by most of the male investors she initially met. ‘That motivated me more: it was a stereotype that had to be gotten rid of,’ she says, now nestled on a plush couch in her office suite, which more closely resembles a lounge room thanks to its on-brand allocation of mounted blue china plates, rich upholstery and an abundance of silver-framed family photos. ‘I think millennials care about social issues,’ she continues, and she would know: her blended brood now includes nine children — three boys with Burch, his three daughters and Roussel’s three boys, all aged from 11 to 20. ‘Certainly, if we can inspire businesses earlier on to get involved in advocacy and philanthropy…’ She pauses. ‘I mean our foundation isn’t a charity; it’s about empowerment. We want to help women see their potential and embrace ambition.’ The foundation is in partnership with the Bank of America. In the past three years it has given more than
TORY BURCH AW17
Getty
“Our foundation is about empowerment. We want to help women see their potential and embrace ambition”
1,200 female American entrepreneurs access to almost $30m (£23m) in loans along with mentoring and what Burch calls a ‘mini business-school’ education programme. ‘It’s actually a wonderful story because it’s really about women helping women. One of my best friends from Penn [the University of Pennsylvania, where she studied art history] is how we have that partnership.’ That friend is Anne M Finucane, vice-chairman of the Bank of America. Together they have fuelled the fires of start-ups ranging from vegan chocolate company Bixby & Co to natural toothpaste brand Dr Brite, founded by breast cancer surgeon Paris Sabo. ‘The only commonality is that it’s women,’ she smiles, pushing her honeyblonde bob behind an ear to expose a diamanté earring that jazzes up her blouse, denim and boot combo. Burch’s social stance aligns with her #EmbraceAmbition online campaign featuring supporters Julianne Moore, Melinda Gates and Anna Wintour. ‘Pay inequality is obscene,’ she continues. ‘To me this is not a favour. It should be a human right. It’s half of the population and it should be about the quality of work, not gender.’ Then there’s the gamut of boards on which Burch sits, from America’s Breast Cancer Research Foundation to the Council of Fashion Designers of America. ‘There is so much divisiveness right now,’ she adds of her country’s present political and social turmoil. ‘It’s time to come together and be accountable. Respect, civility, acceptance and inclusion are at the core of who we are and should be a given.’ We may just have a level-headed politician in the making, but in addition to her passion and social conviction, Burch is as warm as she is sincere. Yes, she lives in an ivory tower — her primary residence is atop The Pierre hotel overlooking Central Park, where she has recently converted three apartments into one for her family — but she credits much of her career success to being what she terms ‘scrappy’, or ‘not coming out with a big bang, paying your dues, learning about your customer and perfecting the product’. In 2015 Burch moved into the leisurewear space with
15.09.17 es magazine 43
Tory Sport, which has a retro, Royal Tenenbaums vibe and is now stocked on Net-A-Porter and mytheresa.com. ‘Personally I love sports [she starts each day with 6am gym training] and the exciting thing about Sport is that the product is resonating.’ That said, ‘doing another start-up is insanely hard, but we want Tory Sport to have its own identity.’ Hers is a dual creative and business role. ‘It was all a bit of a learning curve,’ the chief creative officer/chairman/CEO smiles. ‘I wasn’t trained as a designer. I wasn’t trained as a CEO, so it’s been this incredible journey. I love the intersection of creative and business — that’s what is so inspiring.’
B
Tory Sport tennis skirt, £105; striped tank, £155; sneakers, £200, all at net-a-porter.com
urch’s first New York job after college was for her mum’s designer friend, the eccentric minimalist Zoran. ‘He looked like Rasputin and there were no desks. We had mats on the floor,’ she remembers. During this time Lauren Bacall and Jackie Kennedy Onassis would simply stop by. ‘It was this incredible introduction to fashion,’ she laughs of the multi-tasking assistant role. Her career ladder slowly became more corporate from there, starting with a job at Harper’s Bazaar and then in PR at Ralph Lauren and Vera Wang, followed by Loewe when Narciso Rodriguez was at the helm. It was after the birth of her third son, Sawyer, that Tory Burch Burch and Kate Bosworth LLC started to materialise. During trips back to at this year’s Philadelphia to support her mother at a time when Met Gala her father was not well (he passed away in 2007), she would delve into her closets, which held treasures from the Sixties and Seventies. ‘Easy pieces that are impossible to find, like a great trench coat or cigarette pants,’ she reflects. ‘I was like, “Okay, these are missing from the market”. ‘My greatest inspiration is my mom,’ she affirms. ‘She is my best friend, my greatest mentor and my role model. She is an eternal optimist who lives by the motto, “The glass is half full.”’ Reva Robinson (née Schapira) was a former actress who ran with the likes of Marlon Brando and Steve McQueen before the suave Ira Earl ‘Bud’ Robinson — With model Constance who inherited a stock exchange seat and a paper cup Jablonski company — threw his hat into the ring. While courting at the CFDA her mother, her father would take out ads in the local Awards newspaper’s ‘Help Wanted’ section and sign it ‘Love
44 es magazine 15.09.17
“Humility, now more than ever, is so important to me, and never being arrogant” How does she feel about maintaining such a public persona? ‘I guess I am the face of the brand, but I never really look at it like that,’ she smiles. ‘Humility, now more than ever, is so important to me, and never being arrogant. I’m incredibly flattered when people choose to wear our clothes, so if I can be a role model for women to really believe in themselves and embrace ambition... I think the most important thing right now is women’s empowerment.’ She may be revered for having the perfect touch, but Burch makes a point of insisting that perfection isn’t her motivation: ‘Perfection is very uninteresting to me. That’s the last thing I see and certainly if people knew me better they would know that that’s just not what inspires me. I actually love imperfection. I love quirkiness, interesting facts, things that are high-low. It’s an interesting mix that inspires me.’ Does she care about things like her company’s unicorn status (aka its billion-dollar Forbes-list valuation)? ‘I’m honoured to be included, but it’s not something I think about. That’s a number on paper. My focus is on the work and continuing to grow our business,’ she maintains. And with that she’s off downstairs to help British stylist Tabitha Simmons (who also has her own shoe label) put the finishing touches to Burch’s 2017 Autumn/Winter collection.
Getty; Captial
Star backing: Burch being interviewed by Oprah Winfrey
Relentless’, which inspired Burch’s Love Relentlessly fragrance. ‘My dad married my mom when he was 43. He was quite the bachelor,’ she smiles. Earlier he had wooed Grace Kelly. ‘My father would be on a tractor looking so chic in his espadrilles, a perfectly pressed pink shirt and khakis… it was always attention to detail.’ Growing up in the bucolic setting of Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, her mother’s dinners were by all accounts just as immaculate: ‘She was an organic gardener in the Seventies.’ Burch may have been a longstanding doyenne of the uptown social whirl, but these days her happy place is her own Southampton vegetable garden. ‘In my 20s it was about going out and having fun, and now it’s just about my family and seeing close friends.’ Seeing Burch cuddling up to fiancé Roussel might make you think she is in one of the happiest periods of her life, but she has had her fair share of heartache. In 2006 she divorced Christopher Burch, who was still co-chair of her board when, in 2011, he set up the lifestyle brand C Wonder: a proposition that was deemed too close for comfort by Tory’s camp. A lawsuit ensued, eventually resulting in Christopher Burch selling a portion of his stake. Tory reportedly still owns the largest stake, and in spite of omnipresent rumours about going public, she confirms, ‘that’s not something that’s on my horizon any time soon. It’s a luxury to be private for as long as we can be. I would prefer to be profitable rather than enormous; I would just rather have a healthy company instead of being everywhere. And that’s what drives me in business.’
THE HIKE OF FASHION
The hills are alive with style-setters in boots made for walking — and striking a pose, says Richard Gray
illustration BY anna bu kliewer
‘H
iking is the new yoga,’ says Sarah Andelman, the buyer at the cult Parisian store, Colette. She has just conquered ‘yet another mountain in the Catskills’ for her summer holiday. And she’s not on her own. ‘I’m obsessed with hiking,’ says Love magazine editor-in-chief and fashion stylist for Miu Miu, Katie Grand, who
goes off-road every summer. ‘It’s my chance to unplug.’ Unplug is the right term, agrees author of On Time: Finding Your Pace in a World Addicted to Fast, Catherine Blyth. ‘If you are under pressure or feel there is never enough time,’ she says, ‘switching off the phone and heading out for a stroll — preferably in sight of something green and natural — changes your sense of time, literally re-engaging you
15.09.17 es magazine 47
Katie Grand and husband, Steve Mackey
with your own pace.’ It is also, of course, very good for you. Walking or running are obviously beneficial, but add steep inclines, the use of trekking poles and uneven rocky surfaces, and you are getting much more of a workout. In physiological terms, you’re giving your whole body a workout, and in particular the lower body. ‘There are other indisputable benefits to being outdoors and moving,’ adds James Duigan, the founder of the health and wellness company, Bodyism. ‘Physically, it’s great but the psychological and emotional benefits are incredibly valuable. It has been shown to optimise health and minimise the risk of serious disease. It is one of my favourite forms of exercise and the most powerful fat burner I’ve experienced.’
T
his summer Grand and her husband, the musician and Pulp bassist Steve Mackey, switched off completely at The Ranch, an 18-cottage getaway in Malibu, and the haunt for the fashion hiking set. Catwalk hairstylist Guido Palau, makeup artist Diane Kendal and director and magazine editor Fabien Baron all visit to hike and ‘unplug’ from their busy schedules — with no phone signal, guests have little choice. Grand opts for ‘the 4.0’, a superdisciplined hiking programme with a fourhour morning trek, exercise class, massage and 1,400 calorie-a-day organic plant-based diet: this is quick-fix hiking fitness and then some. ‘You get a real sense of achievement after walking 12 miles a day. Mind you, it can play havoc with your pink Prada hiking
1 2
Katie’s top five hiking tips
Take gauze plasters and nail scissors — they become your best friends. Pack a baseball cap, short shorts for leg tanning and a small vest for arm tanning. Don’t be afraid to wear a bikini top for full tanning opportunities.
3
Don’t think it’s a good idea to have a shower in a waterfall, pretty though it looks — your feet get wet and you get blisters.
4
An iPhone 7 is good for playing music while you walk: the speakers are loud enough to hear it, but not to annoy people. Also, the snakes hear you coming and slither off.
5
If you see a mountain lion, make yourself as big as possible and shout at it.
socks. I’ve gone through four pairs. Prada doesn’t really do brambles...’ she laughs. But hiking, she adds, is a lesson in perspective. ‘It reminds you that the “really important skirt length” you were worrying about will never compare with the thrill of seeing a rattlesnake.’ Oh, yes, none of this is for the fainthearted, rattlesnakes and all. These are long, dry and difficult walks dodging landslides and tackling boulders. By the time she’s in New York, styling the Marc Jacobs show, Grand fully expects to have lost ‘at least four toenails’. If all that sounds a bit too much like hard work, you can always fake it. For autumn, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Sacai have all tapped into the hiking trend: pull cords, backpacks, cagoules, bucket hats and fleeces featured on the catwalks and are hitting the high street, too. Look out for those Balenciaga-inspired techy parkas, and just about every designer has a play on a hiking-boot heel. For colourful sandals, try Camper (wear with socks and shorts or cut-offs) and mix in expert hiking brands such as Patagonia (bright waterproofs, cross bags) and North Face (all-weather jackets), plus Fracap and Diemme for seriously cool walking boots. If you do see a rattlesnake on your travels, don’t do what Grand did and try to jump over the damn thing. ‘Just wait and let it slither by,’ she advises. ‘I know this now, but halfway up a mountain with no phone you can’t exactly google, “how to deal with a rattlesnake while hiking”.’ Well, indeed. Rucksacks at the ready.
Walking Wardrobe: what to wear when hiking
ZARA denim shorts, £25.99 (zara.com)
PATAGONIA lined knit headband, £30 (eu. patagonia.com) EPPERSON mountaineering climb pack, £109 (endclothing. com)
MIANSAI goldplated anchor rope bracelet, £68 (miansai. com)
48 es magazine 15.09.17
CAMPER Oruga sandals, £49 (camper.com)
GEOX shoes, £110 (geox.com) THE KOOPLES hoodie, £115 (thekooples.co.uk)
THE STYLE FILES
They’re young, they’re talented — and they’re making serious waves on planet fashion. We go inside the minds of London’s new guard of designers
NEOUS
NEOUS shoes, £370, at brownsfashion.com
A.W.A.K.E
A.W.A.K.E AW17
A.W.A.K.E AW17
NATALIA ALAVERDIAN Championing modern tailoring with an avantgarde twist, this London label has become a street-style phenomenon.
ALAN BUANNE & VANISSA ANTONIOUS In just one year this cult-issue shoe brand has been picked up by Net-A-Porter and Browns.
Left, £390; above, £345, both at brownsfashion.com
15.09.17 ES MAGAZINE 53
REJINA PYO
REJINA PYO This RTW and shoe brand embodies contemporary London cool, reinforced by its 90 global stockists.
£350 (shop. alighieri.co.uk)
ALIGHIERI
£350 (shop. alighiere.co.uk)
54 ES MAGAZINE 15.09.17
REJINA PYO AW17
REJINA PYO AW17
ROSH MAHTANI This three-year-old jewellery brand’s organic forms and raw surfaces continue to break the mould.
MATTY BOVAN MATTY BOVAN Fashion East’s catwalk mix-master clashes textures and prints to wild effect.
DANSE LENTE
YOUNGWON KIM Modern lines define this covetable handbag brand that landed in January and is already stocked at Net-A-Porter and Selfridges.
MATTY BOVAN AW17
£410, at net-aporter.com
MATTY BOVAN AW17
£441, at farfetch.com
£295, at moda operandi.com
56 ES MAGAZINE 15.09.17
Debonnaire von Bismarck Founder of Debonnaire
Nicholas Kirkwood Shoe designer
‘My latest discovery is a multi-label store called A Number of Names* (anumberofnames.org), opposite my studio on Marshall Street in Soho. I really like its St Moritz Supersoft T-shirt and sweatshirt line, though they sell out so quickly I’m always on the waiting list! I also like buying jackets; I have a Berthold wool great black bomber bomber, £216 (berthold-uk.com) jacket from London label Berthold that I’ll bring back out when it gets cooler. And I love browsing at Present in Shoreditch (presentlondon.com) for menswear labels such as Barena and Haversack, as well as Rostersox Japanese socks, Assouline books and Lola James Harper candles.’
Tania Fares
‘My newest discovery is Ibiza-born brand De La Vali’s ruffled dresses, which I wear with Theodora Warre’s gold hoop gypsy earrings (theodorawarre. eu). I am also obsessed with our show-stopping lace suit made by Serena Bute for Debonnaire. In my dreams this would be worn with a Daniela Villegas DE LA VALI dress, £425, choker and Ara at debonnaire. Vartanian’s diamond com horn earrings.’ (debonnaire.com)
Nicholas Kirkwood
london
style
THEODORA WARRE gypsy hoops, £130, at debonnaire.com
The biggest fashion names open their little black books...
secrets teatum jones aw17
Tania Fares Co-chair of the Fashion Trust
‘Eric Buterbaugh is one of the most creative florists in Los Angeles, and his Eric Buterbaugh Florals Sultry Rose perfume (ebflorals.com) is my favourite ever. Beauty-wise, I love Lacrème Beauté organic skincare (lacremebeaute. com) and Sol de Janeiro Brazilian Bum Bum Cream, which dries very fast and tightens the skin. Fab new finds also include Morpho + Luna’s luxurious sleepwear, jeweller Elisabetta Cipriani, who works with SOL DE artists to create amazing pieces, and Unmade JANEIRO Brazilian Bum (unmade.com), which helps Bum Cream, brands offer customisable £44, at liberty london.com MORPHO apparel. As for newly + LUNA discovered fashion labels, I shorts, £195 love Teatum Jones, Huishan (shop.morpho andluna.com) Zhang and Michael Halpern.’
compiled BY Katrina Israel
Paul Smith Designer
ERIC BUTERBAUGH flowers (eric buterbaugh.com)
Alex Franco; Tina Hillier; Talitha; Jess Kohl
Debonnaire von Bismarck
Authur Beale
‘I’m planning a trip to Arthur Beale, the ship chandlers in Covent Garden. It’s such an unexpected place, slapbang in the middle of the city. In the past I’ve bought lengths of rope which I’ve used as inspiration for bag handles. And they have fantastic authentic Breton tops. It’s so wonderful that in an increasingly homogenised world something so unique can still exist.’ (arthurbeale.co.uk) Inspiring wares at Authur Beale
Paul Smith
DOMINIC JONES Astley Clarke designer
Dover Street Market
Johnny Coca
‘Dukes Cupboard in Soho (dukescupboard.com) has a great curation of men’s vintage designer and sportswear, and Aries Arise — a brand I’ve loved everything about for a while — has recently started doing Dominic Jones men’s T-shirts (ariesarise.com); I managed to get the UFO one, which sold out on launch day. Grooming-wise, I recently shaved my head, and go to Hurwundeki on Cambridge Heath Road (hurwundeki. com), where they knock out a cut in 15 minutes for 13 quid. No3 on the top, fade to No2 on the sides: it’s so liberating.’
JOHNNY COCA Mulberry designer
‘One of my current favourite designers is someone I used to tutor at Central Saint Martins — Grace Wales Bonner. It has been great to watch her grow from a young designer into a new brand that’s available both internationally and in places like Dover Street Market, which is one of my favourites stores to explore in London.’ (doverstreetmarket.com)
JESSIE WESTERN earrings, £499 (jessiewestern.com)
ARIES ARISE T-shirt, £135 (ariesarise.com)
TRIBAL TENT ring, £180 (tribaltent london.com)
Kim Hersov
KIM HERSOV Talitha designer
Emilia Wickstead
WALES BONNER AW17
‘At Portobello Market there’s a stall called Tribal Tent which sells exquisite Afghan and Native American jewellery. I also love Jessie Western on Portobello Road (jessiewestern. com) for her vintage Navajo belts and jewellery to wear with pieces for my label, Talitha, as well as vintage dealer Lucinda Portobello for exquisite kimonos and robes that are great to throw over jeans or to wear with heels in the evening.’
ANGELA WICKSTEAD bed linen, from £34 (07716 332 181) TRIBAL TENT necklace, £135 (tribaltentlondon.com)
EMILIA WICKSTEAD Designer
‘I absolutely love my mother Angela Wickstead’s new bedding and home linen line (angela@ angelawickstead.com). Clever and chic, it offers bespoke colours and trims of incredible quality. I am also crazy for Ferm Living’s ripple glass collection (fermliving. com), as well as Cabana magazine’s home collection with Moda Operandi (modaoperandi.com) — I love the painted glasses. And I’m always picking up vintage pieces from One of a Kind on Portobello Road (oneofakindvintagestore.com).’
64 ES MAGAZINE 15.09.17
CABANA glass, £114, at moda operandi. com
Daunt Books
SIMONE ROCHA Designer
‘Crocs for babies is my best new discovery — they’re waterproof, light and stay on their little feet — while Egg’s beautiful cotton apron Cheese from dresses are a recent find. Books La Fromagerie make great accessories; I love Daunt Books in Marylebone and Donlon Books in south Hackney (donlonbooks.com) for photography. When it comes to secret boutiques I mainly shop for groceries; some favourites include Marylebone’s La Fromagerie (lafromagerie. co.uk) and Sunday farmers’ market, and Leila’s Shop in Shoreditch (020 7729 9789).’
CROCS clog, £39.99 (crocs.co.uk)
Mark Newton; Mehdi Lacoste
Simone Rocha
gucci aw17
modesty
raey aw17
The new
max mara aw17
emilia wickstead aw17
sonia rykiel aw17
length pleated skirts of which grandma would no doubt approve. In short, skin is out and propriety is in. ‘Designers are exploring a modern update on the Victorian look,’ agrees Selfridges’ director of womenswear, Lydia King. The department store stocks Antwerp’s Veronique Branquinho (who, for autumn, sent models down the runway clad in floor-length coat dresses teamed with pie-crust blouses and abaya-like gowns) and Russian designer Alena Akhmadullina (think opulent, faintly gothic trouser suits and dresses) to ‘better represent this new modesty movement’, along with exclusive pieces by Merchant Archive and Philosophy. What is going on? In tempestuous times such as these, it might be tempting to surmise that this is the Hemline Index in action. First presented by the American economist George Taylor in the 1920s, this holds that hemlines rise in times of prosperity and drop when the going gets tougher. But if the hemline index is playing a role, other factors are clearly at work, too. ‘From a sociopolitical perspective there’s been an embracing of diversity,’ says Ghizlan Guenez, founder of new fashion e-commerce platform The Modist, which
15.09.17 es magazine 67
Getty; Vogue Arabia
roksanda aw17
aise a hand if you have run into one of these wardrobe predicaments recently: those easy-to-wear work dresses, previously worn to knee-length, suddenly feel like they need several inches more fabric. That mannish shirt, which once bloused over trousers, now seems tapered and corporate. Even those stalwart Breton tops appear to have shrunk in the wash. In the year since your autumn wardrobe was packed away in mothballs, there has been a seismic shift in proportions. 2017 may mark two centuries since the death of Jane Austen but in some ways the aesthetic of her era feels more prevalent than it has for years. It isn’t just the enveloping sheaths recently seen in The Handmaid’s Tale — on the catwalks, designers are championing a more conservative, buttoned-up approach to modernity, with the likes of Roksanda and Victoria Beckham embracing high necklines and sweeping hemlines, Sonia Rykiel and Erdem offering ankle-skimming dresses, while ruffled necklines romanced at Valentino and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. And then, of course, there is Alessandro Michele’s on-going retro romance at Gucci, dominated as it is by pretty-but-prim blouses and three-quarter-
valentino aw17
R
victoria beckham aw17
joseph aw17
erdem aw17
From veils on the cover of Vogue to ankle-skimming hemlines, Katrina Israel heralds fashion’s new conservative mood
advocates more modest versions of designer runway hits. Guenez, a Muslim former private equity director who is based between London and the UAE, dreamed up the site when she grew frustrated by the lack of stylish, modest clothing available, even in Dubai. It launched with 75 designer brands including Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto and Christopher Kane. Whenever possible Guenez’s buyers work with brands to exchange a sheer panel for another that’s matte, or simply drop a hemline. ‘We’re sort of being that bridge between the designers and a huge customer segment that they haven’t necessarily spoken to in a very focused and personalised manner.’ The site’s offerings speak to the growing influence of the Middle Eastern market. Over the summer, Fenwick of Bond Street launched an exclusive project with Irthi Contemporary Crafts Council to create a pop-up space that celebrated the work of nine Emirati designers and brands. The hugely successful showcase represented 30 per cent of sales within the business’s designer category. So-called ‘Muslim fashion’ is one of the industry’s fastest-growing sectors, estimated to be worth more than £280 billion by 2021, according to a 2016 report published by Thomson Reuters.
“whatever your choice is, exercising it is empowerment, whether it’s covering or baring” Indeed, just before The Modist’s launch this past spring, Halima Aden — the 19-year-old, Somali-American model from Minnesota who competed in her state’s selection round of the Miss USA competition — walked the AW17 runways of Kanye West’s Yeezy show in her hijab, as well as those of Alberta Ferretti and Max Mara. ‘Halima is ambitious, confident and beautiful. Her intelligence, determination and courage absolutely correspond to the brand’s values,’ explains Ian Griffiths, a native of Derbyshire who has headed Max Mara for 32 years. Aden has since graced the cover of Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book, as well as Vogue Arabia and Allure, for which she sported the Nike Pro Hijab power mesh that has just been shortlisted for The Design Museum’s Beazley Designs of the Year award. Gigi Hadid’s cover of Vogue Arabia’s first-ever
68 es magazine 15.09.17
Molly Goddard
Roksanda Ilincic and, right, Yasmin Sewell
The Modist founder Ghizlan Guenez
issue in March — for which she wore an encrusted veil — garnered a more critical reaction. Some accused the part-Palestinian model of cultural appropriation (particularly for an inside shot of her in a hijab) and others pointed out that while Hadid was free to remove her hijab when she chose, there were women who lived in societies where they didn’t have that option. Which raises the broader debate: is encouraging women to ‘cover up’ oppressive? Guenez, for one, argues it isn’t. ‘I believe there was a point in time when women associated empowerment with baring all,’ she says. ‘If you’re strong, you’re out there with “it’s my body” and “I should be able to show it”. And we’ve gone through that phase. I think that maybe we’re becoming a little smarter and understanding empowerment for what it truly is, which is whatever makes you happy and comfortable — and whatever your choice is, exercising it is empowerment, whether it’s covering or baring.’
M
ary Katrantzou, who did her f i rst M idd le E a ster n presentation with matchesfashion.com in Qatar in 2011, concurs. ‘Each of my collections is designed to embolden women to stand out with confidence,’ she explains. ‘My collections are not necessarily about being physically revealing, but revealing the aesthetic and personality of our women. I want my work to empower women to embrace fashion as a means of expressing Samantha themselves — and define their own taste and Cameron aesthetic to feel confident in all the roles they occupy each day.’ At any rate, the ‘new modesty’ isn’t just a matter of catering towards religious or cultural strictures. ‘The reality of this woman is that she’s not a particular nationality or religion,’ says Guenez. ‘She’s really diverse and it’s for various reasons, but there isn’t anyone addressing her needs in a fashionable way.’ More than half a million people have already tagged #modestfashion on Instagram, representing an aesthetic shift away from tighter, more revealing outfits which, frankly, just feel a little dated. Perhaps the pendulum is swinging back on our overexposed world, dominated by social media oversharing. Who expected former Victoria’s Secret Angel Miranda Kerr to wed her tech titan fiancé, Snapchat co-founder Evan Spiegel, in such a traditional, long-sleeved Dior couture gown? Or the global street-style trend for dresses worn over jeans? ‘I think it’s a zeitgeist thing and everyone is just
Cover-up girl: Gigi Hadid on Vogue Arabia’s debut issue
cefinn aw17
letting their personality speak,’ says Rachael Proud, creative director at Raey (the in-house label launched in 2015 by matchesfashion.com, which had us embracing seriously oversized chinos this summer and lusting after XXL turtlenecks for winter). ‘I think women dress more for themselves now than they ever have before, and with that comes wanting to not worry about which bits of you are being exposed… I feel sexier in a longer dress, more confident and ready to tackle a full-on work day and then head to meet friends in the evening.’
“The reality of this woman is that she’s not a particular nationality or religion” Roksanda Ilincic, whose designs have long championed a more covered-up aesthetic and who has paired high necklines with ankleskimming skirts and dresses worn over long boots for autumn, agrees: ‘I find myself constantly questioning how beauty is perceived and I think women now more than ever are looking for something that fits with their aesthetic and busy lifestyle. This means modesty is often key.’ All of which may not be bad news in a city that, thanks in part to the English ‘summer’ and the reality of living in a large (beach-less) metropolis, is not especially synonymous with the bearing of flesh. Our LFW front row is better known for
CÉDRIC CHARLIER dress, £980, at themodist.com
MARNI dress, £800, at themodist.com
Modesty trailblazers: clockwise from below right, Caroline Issa, Laura Bailey and Net-A-Porter’s Lisa Aiken
BLAZÉ MILANO coat, £2,095, themodist.com
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI skirt, £655, at the modist.com
PREEN LINE blouse, £350, at themodist. com
clever tailoring and directional silhouettes. Look at Yasmin Sewell’s penchant for a turtleneck and oversized layers, or Laura Bailey’s love of billowing shapes — the latter a look that is also embraced by local designers Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha and Shrimps’ Hannah Weiland, who all favour voluminous dresses that work effortlessly from breakfast meetings to an evening cocktail do. Samantha Cameron is another Londoner who understands the appeal of figure-flattering — rather than figure-hugging — pieces that fit seamlessly into our busy lives. ‘Modest dressing can be about covering up bits of our body we don’t like or can’t reveal for religious reasons,’ she says, ‘but it is also about fashion, style, adding a bit of femininity and also some mystery.’ For her label Cefinn, Cameron has intuitively brought back the zip-to-collar dress for winter, allowing her woman to adjust the ‘temperature’ at will. ‘I think the point is that there is a move away from oversize clothing being frumpy,’ reflects Proud, a notion that Ilincic agrees is now being championed in both the design room and buying meetings. At the end of the day, she says, ‘the woman is the thing’. And who would disagree?
Slick Woods is the coolest model in the world right now. Fact. Jane Mulkerrins meets the free-spirited star to talk drugs, jail and conquering the catwalks
l s i c k ‘I PhotographS BY David Roemer stylED BY Jenny Kennedy
see myself being a new-age Black Panther, doing things that are really important. I see myself changing the world,’ Slick Woods tells me, with no discernible hint of hyperbole. ‘I see myself as the reincarnation of Tupac.’ I must look slightly confused by this second declaration, as she proceeds to explain: ‘1996, baby.’ The year the iconic rapper was shot dead and the year she was born. Confidence, clearly, is not something Woods was dealt in short supply. But if she sounds brazen and immodest, who, really, could blame her? In an industry renowned for impenetrable elitism and unattainable standards of beauty, the 21-year-old model is gleefully subverting the system. Shaven-headed, gap-toothed and heavily tattooed, the rebel with a potty mouth and a serious penchant for weed is the hottest property in fashion right now. She is the face of Fenty, Rihanna’s collection with Puma, is beloved by Jeremy Scott — creative director at Moschino, for which she fronts the current campaign — and will be walking this season for labels including Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu. She has been shot for the 2017 Pirelli calendar alongside Naomi Campbell and Lupita Nyong’o, and for Italian, Japanese and American Vogue. All of which is even more impressive when you consider that, two years ago, she was living in a ‘traphouse’ (a property where drugs are
74 es magazine 15.09.17
Add a heavy metal accent with Acne Studios’ statement aluminium earrings ACNE STUDIOS Ana earrings, £130 (acnestudios.com). Necklaces, Slick’s own
15.09.17 es magazine 75
Michael Kors sidesteps houndstooth’s heritage hallmarks with pronounced shoulders MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION coat, £2,545 (michaelkors.co.uk) FENDI boots, £ 1,090 (fendi. com). Necklaces, Slick’s own
thing I do to working out is lifting a blunt [joint] to my face,’ she has said. ‘I was never the pretty girl at school, I was the ugly kid. Am I the beauty norm now?’ she asks rhetorically. ‘When Rihanna’s like, “This is my brand, you’re the face of it, and this is what I think beauty is…”’ She shrugs. ‘I’m trying to accept the whole thing.’ As to exactly why she is having a moment, Woods thinks it’s simple. ‘I’ve figured out the algorithm. I’m not trying to make people like me. And I feel like that’s refreshing — they’re like, “Yo, she really doesn’t give a f***.”’
R
eal name Simone Thompson, Slick Woods was a moniker given by friends in recognition of her superior skill in rolling joints (aka a ‘backwoods blunt’). She has, she admits, lost money because of her habit, which she openly flaunts on Instagram, one of the platforms that assisted in her rapid rise to fame. ‘I’ve lost $125,000 in a day from being myself,’ she nods, referring to work lost because of her association with weed. She also seems conflicted about the industry that has fast-tracked her through its hallowed ranks. ‘For Urban Outfitters, I would sell the ugly sweaters because I looked cool. I don’t want to make other s*** cool,’ she says, vehemently. ‘People wrap me up in ugly-ass clothes, saying: “You can make anything look good.” I feel like people use this s*** to dim your light.’ The initial stages of sudden fame were bewildering. ‘It drew me into a dark hole, because it wasn’t tangible. Everyone loved me but I didn’t have stuff. ‘I had fame before I had bread [money],’ she tells me, earnestly, as she orders six Bluepoint oysters and a double shot of Hennessy. I’ll freely admit that, before meeting Woods, I was more than a little intimidated by her fierce social media persona. In the flesh, however, her energy is more mischievous sold) in Los Angeles, addicted to opioids and scratching a living than aggressive. She tells me that she’s often through credit-card crime. ‘It’s been a really eventful year for mistaken for a boy. ‘Then I’ll act really me,’ she grins, giving me a good, long look at that trademark feminine and start tapping my nails.’ She gap-toothed smile. ‘I turned 21 this summer, at 12am on the brandishes them on the table — long, grey, dot of my picture wrap.’ She celebrated in suitably debauched, dagger-like talons that could do serious cognac-fuelled style, at her favourite strip club. damage on the end of the wrong hands. ‘I She’s already branching out beyond the catwalk; she shot love f***ing with people,’ she giggles. her first feature film last month, playing the title character in Flashback: Woods as a schoolgirl She is also an enormous flirt, singing to me Goldie, a gritty indie drama directed by Sam de Jong and funded by and, uninvited, running her fingers through my hair. So powerful is Vice. ‘My acting ability surprised the f*** out of me,’ she admits. ‘It her sexual charisma that I imagine it would be hard to refuse her, was like forced therapy, being able to bring the things that I have whatever you believe your orientation to be. gone through to the table. ‘I’m so in between wanting to respect the woman and wanting to ‘But next time, I want to play someone who is not like me,’ she says, f*** these bitches,’ she says of dating. ‘But everyone’s broken. And deadly serious. ‘Like a Clueless girl or something.’ everyone’s so insecure. I feel like, sometimes, I’m on this higher We’re in the back garden of a bar in Manhattan, across the street plane, this self-aware plane, just by myself.’ She’s currently single; from the studio where Woods has spent the day shooting for our story. fellow model Ebonee Davis ‘broke my heart’, she confesses. ‘I sent She’s changed into her own clothes now — customised Raf Simons her 16 bouquets of purple roses to say I miss you. She’s the one that Ozweego trainers and a hooded Fenty jumpsuit: biker shorts on the got away, man.’ bottom and a top unzipped so low that I am treated to an eyeful of Born in Minneapolis (‘one of the cities you don’t go to’) in the my braless interviewee’s left breast, complete with nipple piercing, Midwestern state of Minnesota, Woods was raised by her mother, before she realises and adjusts herself. Leah. ‘She was a street hustler, a gang-banger, the most respected Even without the tattoos, gold jewellery or the almost-bald head, woman I’ve ever been around.’ She never knew her father. ‘She always which is shaved religiously every three days, her look is an arresting put me first, though. I’ve never met anyone as selfless as my mother. one — enormous doe eyes, huge pillowy lips and a lithe, athletic body, My mother gave her life for me.’ which she claims to do absolutely nothing to maintain. ‘The closest Woods is smart, no doubt, but speaks in the grand, drama-filled
76 es magazine 15.09.17
“I was never the pretty girl at school, I was the ugly kid. Am I the beauty norm now?”
Kenzo’s botanical velvet coat softens Self-Portrait’s sharp leather trousers KENZO coat, £985 (kenzo.com). SELF PORTRAIT trousers, £240 (self-portrait-studio.com). NOOR FARES ‘Akasha’ earrings, £5,280, at net-a-porter.com
Johnny Coca crosses the line at Mulberry with a directional spin on classic checks MULBERRY waistcoat, £2,080; skirt, £920 (mulberry.com). JIMMY CHOO boots, £1,250 (jimmychoo.com)
This is a swathe of dummy text that can be used to indicate he text contains [25 words]
Balenciaga followed suit with a similarly avant-garde asymmetrical houndstooth coat BALENCIAGA coat, £1,885; top, £1,295; boots, £1,445 (balenciaga.com). ACNE STUDIOS Ana earrings, as before
15.09.17 es magazine 79
80 es magazine 15.09.17
Rex Features
soundbites of the autodidact, and, occasionally, makes Take a clash claims that cannot possibly be true. ‘My mom used to course in check read books to me all night long, to the point where I had with Loewe and Simone a 12th-grade [18 years old] reading level at four years Rocha’s old,’ she tells me. juxtaposed But if Woods has embellished those early years, even textures and to herself, it’s perfectly understandable. When she was scales four, she says her mother was sent to prison for LOEWE jacket, manslaughter. She declines to go into detail, saying her £1,895 (loewe.com). mother is due to be released next year, after 18 years SIMONE ROCHA trousers, £525, at inside, and will be ‘parolling’ [ie living] with her. selfridges.com ‘My mom spent her whole 20s in prison; that’s a lot of years,’ she says. I do some quick mental arithmetic. How old was she when she had Slick/Simone? ‘Um, 13 or 14.’ They speak on the phone, but she hasn’t seen her mother for more than three years. ‘I can’t go visit her,’ she admits, a little sheepishly. ‘I f***ed up and got in trouble with the law, too. ‘It’s not something I’m proud of,’ she continues. ‘And when everyone in the world is telling you that you’re going to be just like your mother, and then you’re behind bars…’ She fiddles with the enormous plump oyster on the end of her fork. Her own criminal activity was ‘bank scams, credit card scams, blank cheques, s*** like that’. At 18, she says, she went to jail for ‘two, three months’. ‘I was in a place where I didn’t believe in anything, so I was so susceptible to evil energy. I’m so easily turned,’ she says. Being unable to visit her mother, she feels ‘like a slave’, she laments. From the age of four, Woods was raised by her grandmother in Los Angeles, but shortly after her mother was sentenced, her grandmother’s marriage collapsed, she lost her house and they were forced to Once the money began rolling Woods with Madonna in New York last May, move into a motel. The pair spent years in, however, Woods had no idea and, left, bouncing between motels in LA and how to handle it. ‘I went from in 2015 Minnesota, where they would stay with being homeless to spending family. Neither sounds like a healthy $20,000 [£15,300] a week. I was childhood environment. ‘Hella things making up for lost time, buying went on that shouldn’t have went on. I was my friends s***, going to $400 living an adult life at a very young age,’ says Woods. ‘I had a job, dinners. I’ve always been like, I had to do things I didn’t want to do, I saw a lot of s*** I shouldn’t “What if I die tomorrow?” I can’t have seen.’ Woods had no permanent home for 12 years. sit on this bread.’ By 19, she was living in a traphouse in the LA district of These days, she has people Caption in here please Westwood, heavily dependent on prescription drugs. ‘I was keeping an eye on her most strongly addicted to Xanax and Lean,’ (the slang term for a highly profligate tendencies. ‘We just got potent drink made from opioid-based cough syrup plus soda). She a stripper pole put in the crib,’ she says, excitedly. ‘Jiggy [her friend/ was spotted on the street in West Hollywood by the British male driver/housemate, with whom she lives in New York’s trendy Bushwick model Ash Stymest, who ‘ran out of a random house and was like, in Brooklyn] got it so I wouldn’t spend so much money at the strip “Oi!” I’d never seen him a day in my life.’ club no more.’ She breaks off to make another declaration: The pair hit it off immediately. ‘We’re both Leos, we’re both hella the oysters are making her horny. She orders six more. emotional, he doesn’t want to admit it but we’re hella the same,’ Reckless spending and newly expensive tastes she enthuses. Stymest introduced Woods to the photographer included, Woods appears to be adjusting to the David Mushegain, who took some shots that led to her being fashion world and its accompanying fame with cast in the look book for Kanye West’s label, Yeezy. remarkable ease. ‘I like to be in the spotlight, ‘Kanye was the first person that told me I was going to I like attention,’ she agrees. ‘But I want to feel Woods with blow up who I actually believed,’ she says of the musicianreally limitless. I want my homies to be able to Christopher Bailey turned-designer. Compliments were more forthcoming than make money off me when I’m dead. Like cash, however. ‘Kanye did not pay me,’ she reveals. ‘I didn’t see Marilyn Monroe. I want to be immortal.’ my money until the next Yeezy job I did. He couldn’t book me At least no one could ever accuse Slick Woods again without having paid me for the first time.’ of setting her sights too low.
“I went from being homeless to spending $20,000 a week. I was making up for lost time”
This traditional tailoring fabric is anything but buttoned-up at Stella McCartney and Ellery STELLA McCARTNEY check top, £435, (stellamccartney.com). ELLERY check trousers, £1,130 (ellery.com). Sunglasses and jewellery, Slick’s own Make-up by Vicky Steckel at Bryan Bantry agency using E.L.F. Cosmetics. Nails by Yuko Wada using Chanel Le Vernis for Atelier Management. Fashion assistant: Eniola Dare With thanks to Norwegian air, which offers two daily flights from London Gatwick to New York JFK from £149 (norwegian.com)
Roksanda’s textural tale takes the form of voluminous, plissé pleated silhouettes Roksanda Tulla dress, £1,995 (020 7613 6499). SCOTT NICHOL socks, £19.99, at sockshop.co.uk
82 es magazine 15.09.17
The season’s tactile focus is in full effect with Chloé’s block knitted mohair jumper Chloé jumper, £750, at brownsfashion.com
Shape shifters Maximalist proportions meet fluid cuts. It’s time to experiment with new forms this autumn PhotographS BY Piczo stylED BY Sophie Paxton
Cuddle up in Missoni’s kaleidoscopic sweater and boa combo Missoni sweater, £1,110; boa, £130 (missoni.com)
15.09.17 es magazine 85
Ancient hand-drawn symbols embellish Peter Pilotto’s extra oversized, tufted jumper Peter Pilotto sweater, £775, at Selfridges (0800 123 400)
86 es magazine 15.09.17
Duvet dressing at Mulberry envelops the body in quilted, silk twill layers Mulberry Judith cape, £1,640; Keila dress, £2,000; socks, £250 (mulberry.com)
Knitwear is an all-consuming look for AW17. Match your dress, hat and scarf at will with Acne Studios ACNE STUDIOS dress, £540; hat, £120; scarf, £230 (acnestudios.com)
Marques’Almeida’s chunky cardigan multitasks as a cocooning coat Marques’Almeida jumper, £370 (marquesalmeida.com) Model: Juliet Soane at Storm Models. Stylist’s assistant: Eniola Dare. Hair by Hiroshi using Oribe Hair Care. Make-up by Crystabel Riley using Absolution Cosmetics Shot on location at Chiltern Open Air Museum, open 10am to 5pm until 26 October (coam.org.uk). With thanks to Addison Lee (020 7407 9000)
15.09.17 es magazine 89
A$AP Rocky
His claim to have been responsible for the return of gold jewellery to the hiphop community notwithstanding, A$AP always wears it well; an aficionado of Raf Simons and Jeremy Scott, a collaborator with JW Anderson and a dapper dresser who never disappoints.
Céline Dion
Her heart will go on: thankfully for all of us, her devotion to designer labels will go on, too. Dion’s celebration of Dior, Prada, Valentino and (obvs) Céline is a joyous thing to behold, and the fun she has wearing it is a welcome antidote to all the po-faced seriousness out there, both in the fashion industry and in the world at large.
Rihanna
If 56.3m fangirls are living for your every outfit post on Instagram, you may as well bottle it — and she has, with 10 perfumes to her name. But Ri is also a major fashion force, thanks to her Fenty x Puma range, as well as collaborations with Dior (sunglasses), Manolo Blahnik (shoes) and Chopard (fine jewellery). But her newest, and possibly most lucrative venutre is Fenty Beauty: watch it fly.
celebrities
the
power
Bella Hadid
No longer just Gigi’s little sister, Hadid’s chameleon-like looks ensure she’s always in demand, whether on Tom Ford’s catwalk or Victoria’s Secret’s.
list
Meet the creative talents and business titans setting the fashion agenda now edited BY Laura weir Written by Laura craik
Getty; Eric T White; Rex; Landmark; Instagram
Cara Delevingne
With a personal fortune estimated at £14m, Cara can afford to be picky about the fashion brands she works with, such as Burberry, Rimmel and Chanel. Since her successful move into the film world (Valerian and Kids in Love) a Cara catwalk appearance is as rare as a hen’s tooth.
Beyoncé
For someone with the heft and majesty of Queen Bey, Knowles entered fairly cautiously into the fashion market, eschewing collaborations for the creation of an activewear range, Ivy Park. Its launch last April marked what is no doubt only the beginning of Bey’s fashion ambitions.
Skepta
‘The clothes don’t make the man, the man makes the clothes,’ Joseph Junior ‘Skepta’ Adenuga told the Evening Standard back in June at the launch of his menswear range. Grime’s golden boy rarely wears his beloved Gucci, Vuitton and Chanel these days: he usually dons his own Mains creations instead. He says you can do great things in a tracksuit, and has a Mercury and an Ivor Novello to prove it.
Kim Kardashian West
Whatever you think of this unapologetic figure, Kim shifts units, whether of husband Kanye’s Yeezy range or any other label she gets in front of the eyeballs of her 103m Instagram followers. Balmain, Givenchy and Valentino are just some of the beneficiaries of her patronage — seeing her as anything other than an astute businesswoman is a grave misjudgement.
15.09.17 es magazine 93
10 1
3
2
6
8
5
4
9
7
11
14
20 15
designers
1
12
AZZEDINE ALAÏA
Tunisian-born Alaïa is the designer’s designer, a man who eschews fashion diktats (such as showing seasonally).
2
rei kawakubo
The arch Japanese avantgardist who recast fashion in black is as reclusive as she is revered.
3
PHOEBE PHILO
Philo has been at Céline for nearly 10 years, in which time she has, oh, only redefined the working woman’s wardrobe.
4
STELLA McCARTNEY
For her wide-ranging partnership with Adidas (she designed Team GB’s Olympic kit) and for championing environmental issues: she refuses to work with fur or leather.
5
16
KARL LAGERFELD
Ruling the house of Chanel with a glove-clad iron fist since 1983, Lagerfeld is all-round boss.
94 es magazine 15.09.17
18 17
6
MANOLO BLAHNIK
For his integrity and unerringly elegant shoes. Impostors can but dream of equalling him.
7
SILVIA VENTURINI FENDI
Always innovating, Fendi is as dynamic and luxurious as ever, with a heavy dose of Roman wit making it one of the most covetable labels around.
8
ERDEM MORALIOĞLU
The much-loved designer, renowned for fabulous, figureflattering florals, is the latest creative to lend his signature to H&M.
9
MIUCCIA PRADA
For many in the fashion world, the Milan-born designer’s edicts are the only ones to follow.
10
MICHAEL KORS
A recent £896m acquisition of Jimmy Choo only strengthens his position as one of fashion’s most powerful players.
11
JAMES JEBBIA
His brand Supreme has never been more desirable than after its collaboration with Louis Vuitton. Cooler than cool.
12
RAF SIMONS
He only presented his first collections for Calvin Klein in February, but the Belgian has reinvigorated the fabled house.
13
ALESSANDRO MICHELE
If power is measured by the high-street copies your catwalk shows spawn, Gucci’s creative director is omnipotent.
14
GIORGIO ARMANI
The godfather of Italian fashion, master of elegant tailoring and the maestro of the red carpet.
15
NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE
Helming LVMH’s jewel in the crown, Ghesquière continues to dazzle with his modern approach to high fashion.
19
16
DEMNA GVASALIA
The Vetements creative is his own man, and as artistic director of Balenciaga he has put the French label back on the lips of the fashion cognoscenti.
17
JOHN GALLIANO
The design legend is now the creative visionary behind the fantastic white-washed world of Maison Margiela.
18
RALPH LAUREN
The design icon defines Americana and is the father of the fashion megabrand.
19
MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI
The first woman to get the top job at Christian Dior, Chiuri backs a feminist agenda and a slick, strong silhouette.
20
TOM FORD
The designer and film director surprised by showing at New York Fashion Week this season, ditching the ‘see now, buy now’ model. Watch others follow.
Getty; Eyevine; Rex; GC Images
13
Camille CharriÈre
Snaps for your Insta captions, Camille.
influencers
slick woods
She’s hot and she doesn’t give a damn. We respect that.
Sabine getty
This fashion plate’s kaleidoscopic jewels are as colourful as her jet-set lifestyle.
adwoa aboah
The British model and ES cover girl is leading the feminist conversation with her Gurls Talk platform.
the iNsta pack Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Derek Blasberg, Dasha Zhukova, Lauren Santo Domingo, Jess Hart and Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert — cliquey but stylish and on constant vacation.
stylists Olivier Rizzo
The Belgian creative is Mrs Prada’s preferred in-house stylist.
Alastair McKimm
i-D’s fashion director distils luxury and streetwear for the likes of Supreme and Saint Laurent.
Getty; AFP; Rex; Instagram; Louise Haywood Schiefer; Steph Wilson
Lotta Volkova
Gvasalia’s right-hand woman/muse embraces esoteric looks. Her Instagram feed is ace.
sound scapers Susie Lau
An industry gem, Lau transcends the blogger bubble.
FrÉdÉric Sanchez
Brands from Prada to Balmain enlist Sanchez for their shows’ ‘oral tableaux’.
Michel Gaubert
The catwalk mix-master is Karl Lagerfeld and Dries Van Noten’s musical maestro.
15.09.17 es magazine 97
beauty artists
Eugene Souleiman His now starry career began with a Job Centre placement as a hairdresser.
art crowd
josh wood
The London master dresses the tresses of the capital’s power set.
yana peel
pat mcgrath
The Serpentine CEO bridges planets art and fashion.
The glam icon who designed Armani’s make-up in 1999 has now launched her own.
michael clark
The Scottish dancer and iconoclast is always a step ahead.
Holli Smith
Lucia Pica
The hairstylist is a fast fave of Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello.
Chanel’s head of beauty (right) is known for her bold, disruptive use of colour.
Guido palau
He’s the hair guru behind George Michael’s modelstrewn ‘Freedom’ video.
Wolfgang Tillmans The German photographer’s diverse body of work is to be revered.
Andrew Bolton eva chen
Nobody knows more about ‘Instabait’ than the platform’s head of fashion partnerships.
Federico marchetti
tech heads
CEO of Yoox NetA-Porter Group is unstoppable.
ian rogers
Jumped from music to luxury as LVMH’s chief digital officer.
JosÉ Neves
Integrates the world’s boutiques at farfetch.com.
The British head curator of the Met’s Costume Institute in NYC specialises in blockbuster fashion shows.
Juergen Teller
The lensman (right) always gets the top shot.
Rex; Getty
dynamic duos
TOM AND RUTH CHAPMAN Matches started as a shop in Wimbledon in 1987: 30 years later, matches fashion.com this month sold a majority stake to Apax Partners for £800m. Such success is a reflection of the drive of the well-loved Chapmans.
CHARLES ABOAH and CAMILLA LOWTHER London’s ‘other’ Charles and Camilla are fashion royalty. As founder of creative agency CLM, Lowther has steered the careers of Katie Grand and Tim Walker. Husband Aboah owns a location scouting company. Oh, and Adwoa Aboah is their daughter.
CHRISTOPHER AND TAMMY KANE This brother-sister pairing have worked side by side since founding Christopher Kane just over a decade ago. The dynamic duo are true creative alchemists, famous for delivering a subversive, sartorial reflection of Cool Britannia.
RONNIE COOKE NEWHOUSE AND JONATHAN NEWHOUSE Few couples are as wellconnected. Jonathan’s family has owned Condé Nast since 1959. Ronnie runs House + Holme, the creative agency behind campaigns for Lanvin and Moncler. 15.09.17 es magazine 99
100 es magazine 15.09.17
believe in). As for pinning down their gender or sexuality — good luck with that. Forget your narrow categorisations. Gen Z are global citizens, digitally connected to their peers around the world, able to find virtual communities where analogue ones are absent. They are the ultimate influencers: sharing their opinions and experiences online comes naturally. Which means that, when it comes to quality, they expect the best of the best. The message? Feckless frittering is out, conscious consumerism is the future. Generation Z are arguably the most important people in the world of fashion right now.
Illustration: Anna Bu Kliewer
A
gen z
s the first generation to grow up online comes of age, they bring the promise of a revolution. Their brains may as well be smartphone interfaces, so in tune with technology are these digital natives. They are unique — in the way they think, act and shop — and they may just present the most intriguing challenge the industry has ever faced. Born between the mid Nineties and mid Noughties, as consumers they are like no generation before: supremely smart with saving (they’ve seen the excesses of the past and loathe debt), suspicious of advertising and prepared to stand up for the greater good (60 per cent will support brands that represent issues they
model icons Kate Moss
You might have heard of her. Twenty-nine years and a £60m fortune later, she’s still the boss.
Mario Testino
Whether shooting Gisele Bündchen or Mick Jagger, Testino’s style is arguably the most recognisable of all the super-photographers. As well as his editorial work, he has shot 67 ad campaigns for Burberry, 48 for Michael Kors and 13 for Chanel: after a 35-year career, he is in a position to give back, to his native Peru and other countries. His philanthropy would make his friend (and most famous subject), Princess Diana, proud.
Ryan McGinley
Naomi Campbell
Whether dominating the runway or just going about her usual business of being iconic, the Streatham-born supermodel still rules.
creative collective
David Lane
The New York Times called him ‘the pied piper of the downtown art world’, but McGinley (below) is just at home in the world of high fashion, making a name with his fragrance campaigns for Dior, Stella McCartney and Hermès.
Tim Walker
veronica ditting
From The Gentlewoman to COS magazine, this creative is a minimalist at heart.
jonny lu
The east London creative director works with Chloé and Love magazine.
Christopher Simmonds
jasmine raznahan
Jack Davison; Getty; INF Photo; Rex
The editor of food magazine, The Gourmand, along with Marina Tweed — the pair also founded creative agency, Lane & Associates.
tadashi yanai
The man who made cashmere affordable courtesy of Uniqlo.
anya yiapanis Founder of influential agency Intrepid.
Anya Yiapanis and Sylvia Faragó
Alasdair McLellan
Whether shooting campaigns for high street chains such as H&M and Topshop, or working with luxury brands like Armani and Louis Vuitton, Doncaster-born McLellan’s restrained, sometimes candid, never clichéd images have seen him rise to be one of the most in-demand (and prolific) photographers of his generation. Does he ever take a day off?
business titans Karl-Johan Persson
Head of IMG Models (Bella Hadid, Lara Stone).
The in-demand fashion producer works with Ryan McGinley.
‘Perfectly imperfect’ would be one way to describe the work of London-born Lebon (above), although through his lens, all flaws are beautiful. That he even manages to imbue such oft-shot faces as Miley Cyrus and Gigi Hadid with mystique are the reason he’s a favourite of brands such as Gap and Céline.
The founder of luxury book publisher Assouline turns tomes into status symbols.
iVan bart
sylvia faragÓ
Tyrone Lebon
Prosper Assouline
This art director’s agency ARPA’s clients include Stella McCartney and Pop magazine.
The creative director behind Gucci’s rebranding under Alessandro Michele.
david lane
Harley
He shot his first fashion Weir story for Vogue aged 25, After a degree in fine art, Weir and has regularly lit up taught herself its pages ever since. Lavish sets are Walker’s photography, swiftly trademark and no effort gaining acclaim for her unabashed challenging is too great when it of the female gaze. Her comes to capturing the perfect shot. Fantastical work for Calvin Klein landscapes, blue horses, underwear may have been controversial (it giant birds and creepy featured candid shots of dolls… you name it, a models in their Walker shoot has pants), but her featured it. ‘I youth-focused create worlds images are a and place breath of them in the fresh air. front of photographers you,’ he Jack says. And Davison what ‘Brooding’ is dreamlike the word most worlds they are. often used to describe the work of this David Sims self-taught 27-year-old He made his name in from Essex, who shot the early Nineties to attention after shooting for The Face: documenting a 10,000some 20 years later, mile road trip through Sims’ imagery looks as America. His landscapes fresh as it ever and portraits are equally did. Probably haunting; his editorial because it’s work for British Vogue, seminal. Oft imitated, never Another Man and i-D is never less than brilliant. surpassed.
The dashing Swedish billionaire heads up H&M.
Pablo Isla
As CEO of Inditex, Isla is residing over Zara inc.
peter marino
architect
The American ‘starchitect’ is never not dressed in head-to-toe leather.
15.09.17 es magazine 103
Katie Grand
Elaine Welteroth
Since taking over as editor-in-chief of Teen Vogue, Welteroth has already made her mark by eschewing typical teen content in favour of hardhitting political coverage that proves she is as #woke as her young readers.
the editors
Imran Amed
The founder, CEO and editor-in-chief of the Business of Fashion (BoF) launched the website from his sofa in 2007. Ten years later, it has become an industry must-read, with in-depth analysis of every fashion-related topic imaginable.
Sophia NeophitouApostolou
In between advising fashion’s key movers and shakers, the owner and editor-in-chief of 10 and 10 Men magazines somehow finds time to style the Victoria’s Secret show. No, we don’t know how, either.
dame Anna Wintour
The editor-in-chief of US Vogue has just steered the magazine through its 125th issue, while arranging the Met Ball and addressing the Oxford Union in her spare time. After 30 years at the helm, Wintour is as attuned to her readers’ needs as she ever was, and has managed Vogue’s digital presence as adroitly as its print iteration.
Why have one big job when you can have… nope, sorry, lost count. Editor-in-chief of Love magazine, contributing fashion creative director of W, stylist of Marc Jacob’s shows, art director of Balmain campaigns, consultant to more designers than there is room to list, the Leedsborn powerhouse is a true multitasker.
Edward Enninful
His first issue (December) won’t hit news stands for another couple of months, but hopes are high that British Vogue’s new editor-in-chief will deliver a shiny new dose of the diversity that he has championed throughout his career, ever since starting out on i-D magazine.
Sarah Mower
For her role as chief critic of vogue.com, but mainly for her passionate, invaluable, ‘what would we do without her’ support of nascent British talent.
Angelica Cheung
The charismatic editor-in-chief of Vogue China (married to a Yorkshireman, incidentally) wields her power benevolently, championing Chinese fashion at the same time as ensuring her 1.6m readers are wellinformed about fashion on a global scale.
Grace Coddington
Plays a vital role in LVMH’s creative success.
PR maven behind many of the world’s leading luxury brands.
luxury leaders Tim Blanks
The Canadian-born, hugely erudite editor-atlarge of BoF is one of the few fashion critics who actually criticises — and who is allowed to, with designers happily taking it on the chin.
Marco Bizzarri FranÇoisHenri Pinault He gave Alessandro Kering’s kingpin.
Michele the Gucci job.
15.09.17 es magazine 105
Getty; Rex
After 30 years as creative director of US Vogue, her role as contributing editor to British Vogue sees the former model enjoying a homecoming; she began her career there, aged 19. Her turn in the documentary, The September Issue, was a rare window into the self-effacing way she works. One of the few stylists deserving of the word ‘icon’.
Karla Otto
Delphine Arnault
Glo selecta: Rizzoli’s new book celebrating Fiorucci
Bringing sexy back
As the 1980s cult label Fiorucci relaunches in London this week, Simon Mills celebrates its heady, gaudy legacy — and his misspent youth on its Knightsbridge shopfloor
Josh Wilks; Hugo Yangüela
L
ondon 1984; Fiorucci, born Princes Diana’s brother; and a beautiful ex50th birthday. Founder Elio Fiorucci died in in 1967 and throbbing with BMX champion called Alice Temple… who 2015, but the brand is back on fashion’s radar disco heat in the 1970s, is looks like a boy. Alice is ‘dating’ Boy George. again. New owners, Britain’s Stephen and having its 1980s fashion Like Madonna she will end up with a recordJanie Schaffer — the now divorced couple moment. Fluorescent clothing contract and an i-D cover. The shop manwho made the Knickerbox brand a high street ing is suddenly the thing. ager is a 19-year-old with her eyebrows fixture — have purchased Fiorucci from The recent collection from Vivienne shaved off — Kathryn Flett, now a novelist Japanese behemoth Itochu and are poised to Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s Worlds and newspaper columnist. open a three-storey store on Brewer Street in End, ‘Witches’ (a collaboration with New I am working at the Knightsbridge branch. Soho. It’ll be a multimedia experience with York street artist Keith Haring), has fluoro As a 21-year-old fashion and nightclub-besotlive performances, art exhibitions and a café graffiti all over it. But if you want to look like ted boy around town, trying to make it as a run by the team from Palm Vaults in Hackney. the latest pop star from New York, Madonna, writer by interviewing pop stars for Smash Stores in Los Angeles and Milan will follow. who wears day-glo bangles, lipstick and earHits, Just Seventeen and The Face, I am ‘We bought Fiorucci because we always rings and is on the cover of the super cool delighted to serve the drag queen Divine and loved it,’ says Janie Schaffer, a former chief fanzine i-D (which, by the way, we are selling sell Clash guitarist Mick Jones the white jeans creative officer at Victoria’s Secret. ‘We just in the shop) you have to come to Fiorucci; he will debut on the first album cover of couldn’t bear to see it fall into the cold hands based in Milan and big in Manhattan, perhis new band, Big Audio Dynamite. of a profit-driven licensee. Everyone told haps, but always hardwired to the street George Michael, Boy George and us we were crazy — that retail was over. fashion of London. Marilyn come in to get kitted out for But we believe we can take this brand This is an era when shop assistants are Philip Sallon’s Day Glo Ball at that inspired a generation — that genstars-in-the-making. At Fiorucci on the Heaven, a hi-vis electropop rave uinely touched people emotionally King’s Road, staff members include with every single one of us — and make it relevant for today.’ Gavin Rossdale (later frontman of Bush shining neon in fluorescent To achieve their pink PVC and Mr Gwen Stefani); an English jumpers, leggings, gloves, dream and ‘create the Fiorucci Going for gold: Georgia May Rose model called Victoria caps, bangles, lipstick… and of the future’, the Schaffers Jagger in Lockwood who will become a that’s just the boys. have done their fashion homethis year’s Fiorucci Hot mod: Bruce Weber favourite and the Fast forward three decwork. ‘The first few weeks were Rod Stewart wife of Charles Spencer, ades to 2017 and Fiorucci’s spent making digital files of posters in Fiorucci in 1975
15.09.17 es magazine 109
Fresh colours: left, the Fiorucci store opening in Soho; below, new owners, Janie and Stephen Schaffer
T-shirt, £65 (fiorucci.com)
Trousers, £185 (fiorucci.com)
Bomber jacket, £250 (fiorucci.com)
Above, Fiorucci bags; right, Keith Haring and his artwork at the New York flagship in the Eighties
and graphics,’ says Janie. She got legendary tive directors, then sold back to us with funky Italian pattern cutter Venucia De Rossi, who graphics and clever packaging you wanted to once worked with Elio Fiorucci himself, to pin up on your bedroom wall. Gloriously, create blocks for the new jeans. Staff have optimistically, unapologetically young. been hired from LVMH, Burberry and Flaunting an attention deficit disordered Michael Kors. Antonio Guerra, formerly at style of branding (instead of having one logo, Pringle of Scotland, Kilgour and Jonathan it had hundreds) Fiorucci stood for a conSaunders, is product development manager, stantly refreshing approach to its own image while Annabelle Lacuna and Max Hörmann, that should chime with today’s Instagram, who worked together at Kenzo, head the swipe-happy consumers. And it already has Fiorucci design team. ‘We want to encourage what so many brands are desperate to fabricollaborations with young designers, musicate; five decades of heritage, stellar celebcians and artists,’ says Janie. Ergo, 24-yearrity patronage and credible connections with old Aaron Skipper (Vans, Bethany Williams) rock’n’roll and art. Hidden away in a Milan is in charge of graphic design. The first poster warehouse near Linate airport, there is an campaign, launched early this year, was shot incredible archive of thousands of garments, by Joshua Wilks (Garage and King Kong artworks and accessories that could fuel colmagazines) and starred Georgia May Jagger lections for years. (I know, I’ve seen it.) wearing a classic Fiorucci red and white striped crop top. It looked perfect… in a “Fiorucci’s New York flagship cheeky, straight-out-of-1981 kinda way. was way, way ahead of its time Can the Schaffers recapture the magic? as a Dover Street Market/ Why not? With its thing for fast fashion, Colette-style hang-out” event retail, graphic novelty and all-inclusive liberi tutti attitude, Fiorucci seems perfectly set for a 21st-century reboot. Key to its sucAnd the stories! For a 1980s kid like me, cess — and its future — is the notion of Fiorucci shops always seemed to be a live Fiorucci being as much about an aspirant action Interview magazine; neon-lit hotpop culture lifestyle as a beds of gossip, cross-dressing, dayclothes outlet. Never trying time disco-ing and wild graffiti art. to be cutting-edge like In the 1970s and 1980s the New Comme des Garçons or York flagship — designed by Ettore Yohji, Fiorucci was audaciously Sottsass, decorated by Keith Haring kitsch, sexy and gaudy jetand Jean-Michel Basquiat and way, way set chic. Putti angels in ahead of its time as a multi-storey dark glasses, cowboy Dover Street Market/Colette-style boots in Lurex, leopard hang-out — became known as the ‘dayLove and skate: Farrah Fawcett prints and tight jeans: it time Studio 54’, attracting the likes of wearing Fiorucci was British and American Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs. David youth, as seen through the Bowie’s backing singer Joey Arias mirror-lensed prism of Italian creamanned the till. It was office space for
110 es magazine 15.09.17
Warhol, the venue for Madonna’s debut gig and even enjoyed a cameo in Superman II. Apparently founder Elio Fiorucci pioneered spray-on, stretch body-formed denim after watching girls exit Ibiza’s Pacha nightclub in the early hours and wade fully clothed into the sea. He signed up Vivienne Westwood, Katharine Hamnett, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Bodymap’s David Holah to design collections. Thrillingly, the label was namechecked in the 1979 disco classic, Sister Sledge’s Nile Rodgers-penned ‘He’s the Greatest Dancer’: ‘Halston, Gucci, Fiorucci’. To celebrate its London-fired rebirth, Rizzoli is publishing a Fiorucci book. With a forward by Sofia Coppola, the flash pop photographic volume also includes interviews with fans such as photographer Oliviero Toscani and art director Terry Jones. Writer Douglas Coupland’s first visit to Fiorucci in Manhattan (a postcard was all he could afford) meant he ‘stopped caring about school’. Marc Jacobs was more enamoured with the merchandising. ‘The graphics feel so much like the energy of that time… a bit glam, a bit punk… making you think that even if you bought a striped T-shirt, it was special.’ As a teenage regular at Fiorucci in New York, Coppola recalls, ‘Going into Fiorucci… the graphics, the colours, the music, the cool older girls who worked there… nothing was more exciting and glamorous.’ Coppola is spot-on there — wrangling the perfect shop-staff team will be very, very important. I am a bit busy during the week, but I could do Saturdays. Fiorucci opens on 16 September at 39-43 Brewer Street, Soho, W1 (fiorucci.com)
beauty by katie service
OVER THE RAINBOW
Shine on with Christopher Kane’s holographic NARS colour palette
NARS Chrome Couture eyeshadow palette by Christopher Kane, £39, available from 18 September (narscosmetics.co.uk)
PHOTOGRAPH BY TOBI JENKINS
15.09.17 es magazine 115
BEAUTY
SUQQU Pure Colour Blush in amacha, £32, at selfridges.com
GLOSSIER Cloud Paint Seamless Cheek Colour in dusk, £14, available 1 Oct (glossier. com)
PS NAIL CANDY Matte Nail Polish, £1.50, at primark.com
REDKEN Diamond Oil Glow Dry, £17.50, at Redken salons nationwide
CHARLOTTE TILBURY Hollywood Lips in pin-up pink, £24, at selfridges.com
FRESH FACE FORWARD
ESTÉE LAUDER X VICTORIA BECKHAM Matte Lipstick in burnished rose, £38, at selfridges.com
A new season of beauty products brings with it a focus on super-nudes, pink gloss and skin finesse, says Katie Service
LE MINI MACARON Gel Manicure Kit peach, £34.99, at feelunique. com
Jean-Philippe Woodland
MARC JACOBS Eye-Conic, £39, at harrods. com
PAT MCGRATH LABS Venom Microfine Glitter, above left, and Clear Vinyl Gloss, right, part of the Lust 004 Lip Kit, £135, at net-a-porter.com
GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY Ecstasy Shine Lipstick in eccentrico, £29 (armanibeauty.co.uk)
READ YOUR STARS BY SHELLEY VON STRUNCKEL AT STANDARD.CO.UK ⁄ HOROSCOPES ⁄TODAY
CHANEL La Crème Main, £45, available from October (chanel.com)
ES MAGAZINE 117
Girls in Pearls For moonlit skin, mix your foundation on the back of your hand with a luminiser before applying
SUQQU Extra Rich Cream Foundation, £65; Face Up Bright Powder, £29; Treatment Primer, £40; Dual Ended Foundation Brush, £26, all at selfridges.com. Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid Highlighter, £34, at spacenk.com PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI blouse, £320 (020 7235 2349). SIMONE ROCHA single earring, £150, at matchesfashion.com
118 es magazine 15.09.17
Regency raspberry
Pair a berry lip with a wash of pink eyeshadow two shades lighter above the eyes SUQQU Extra Rich Cream Foundation, £65; Moisture Rich Lipstick in Fig Red, £30, both at selfridges. com. Pearl nail details, £1.44, at nded.co.uk. CND Vinylux Nail Polish in Pink Pursuit, £6.90, at justmylook.co.uk BURBERRY dress, £3,495 (burberry.com). nina kastens earring, £240 (ninakastens.com)
History girls As the catwalks turn to period drama for inspiration, allow Cate Blanchett and Tilda Swinton’s on-screen make-up artist, Morag Ross, to guide you through the beauty trends you need to know now PhotographS BY Natasja Fourie beauty editor Katie Service fashion BY eniola dare 15.09.17 es magazine 119
Man Ray Mascara
The cinematic mood on the catwalk means that statement lashes, whether they’re loaded with mascara or decorated falsies, will be the biggest trend of the autumn SUQQU Extra Rich Cream Foundation, £65; Natural Curl Mascara, £29; Creamy Glow Lipstick in 06, £27; Eyebrow Liquid Pen, £22, all at selfridges. com. False lashes made by Morag using false eyelashes and black beads ERDEM bib top, POA (erdem.com)
15.09.17 es magazine 121
BrontË braids Loop vintage velvet ribbons around ponytails or pair with a plaited up-do SUQQU Extra Rich Cream Foundation, £65, at selfridges.com LOEWE top, £1,395 (loewe. com). VV ROULEAUX Deep Forest ribbon, £2.30 per metre (vvrouleaux.com)
15.09.17 es magazine 123
Pre-Raphaelite Ripples
Rose-gold hues and romantic Rossetti-style tresses are making a comeback SUQQU Pure Colour Blush in Amacha, £32; Extra Rich Cream Foundation, £65; Extra Glow Lipstick in Classic Rose, £25, all at selfridges.com. Marc Jacobs Dew You? Dew Drops, £32, at johnlewis.com GABRIELA HEARST dress, £1,560, at net-a-porter.com. ALIGHIERI earrings, £350 (shop.alighieri.co.uk)
Make-up by Morag Ross, UK make-up spokesperson for 2017 using SUQQU. Hair by Terri Capon at Stella Creative Artists. Manicurist: Sabrina Gayle at The Wall Group Model: Polina Oganicheva at Premier Model Management. With thanks to Loft Studios (loftstudios.co.uk)
124 es magazine 15.09.17
beauty
You beauty!
ON THE SOAPBOX
What’s in your lip balm? Founder of Australian brand Lano Lips, KIRstin Carriol, sorts through the list of ingredients
T
here are myriad lip balms out there. If you head down to Boots, you’ll see they break into roughly four categories:
1
Chemical-based. Developed in the 1970s and 1980s when chemicals were king and cheap. Ingredients such as methylparaben and propylparaben are still common and are widely considered unsafe to ingest.
2
Beeswax-based. Wax balms aren’t compatible with your skin, so they might feel nice and they can protect your skin from the elements but they’re not technically moisturising. They are usually in stick form.
3
Petroleum jelly-based. Petroleum is completely incapable of penetrating your skin and moisturising it, yet there’s a huge amount of it on the market. Many products can be as much as 90 per cent petroleum jelly.
T
4
Lanolin based. Lanolin is an oil found on sheep’s wool and its molecular structure is almost identical to human oils. Therefore, when you put it on your skin, it will behave like your own oils and as though you’re replacing your own skin lipids, so will moisturise better than anything else. KIEHLS lip balm, £9.50 (kiehls.co.uk)
Annabel Rivkin strikes beauty gold
Josh Shinner
Headspace
Roald Dahl said: ‘If you have good thoughts, they will shine out of your face like sunbeams and you will always look lovely.’ Why not take a leaf out of his book with one of these happiness planners? Dreams Journal, £21 (johnlewis.com); Happiness Planner, £30 (thepaperparlour.co.uk); Be Great, Be Grateful by Patternity, £12.99 (waterstones.com)
he holy grail: a cream that makes you look as though you haven’t been tired since 2012. That doesn’t cost the earth. That doesn’t give you spots. That just does something without making a song and dance about it. Seriously, who wakes up feeling or looking properly refreshed? Not this writer, my beauties. If I don’t sleep (and this is the norm), then I spring from my bed at 3am as though an electric current has bolted through me and spend the rest of the day fading from merely haggard to deranged. If I do sleep (sometimes this happens; there’s no rhyme or reason), then I crawl, entirely puffy, through the day. Night-time does not equal happy cell renewal and rejuvenation. However, the mothership that is M&S provides. And so I steer you towards its Formula Absolute Ultimate Sleep Cream: heavy glass pot; nice, fresh smell; light texture — rich but not greasy. Very, very nice performance. After two weeks of use (often after its effectively exfoliating Innovate Radiance Reveal Peel, £17.50), my skin looks less fatigued, less pigmented, more elastic and generally better. This Formula range is to be noted because it’s well executed yet decently priced. I would go so far as to say this is my favourite, having hitherto been a little confused about night creams. My morning face looks a little fresher which makes my day a little brighter and my mood a little lighter. This is not just any night cream, this is M&S night cream. Sold. Formula Absolute Ultimate Sleep Cream, £22 (marksandspencer.com)
Read your stars by Shelley von Strunckel at standard.co.uk / horoscopes /today
15.09.17 es magazine 127
feast
grace & flavour Grace Dent enjoys heavenly pasta with seasonal produce at Marcella, in officially fashionable Deptford
“I sucked the fresh tagliatelle with girolles into my face, emitting savage-like sounds”
Ambience food
Jonny Cochrane; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas
A
perfect snapshot of regeneration’s contentious double-bind surfaced this month in Peckham on the head of a man called Saul. ‘Make Peckham S*** Again’ has been printed on a range of baseball caps, being sold for £10 apiece by indie publisher Morbid Books and championed by Saul. These comedic hats, or perhaps not remotely comedic from where you are standing, were selling like warm rainbow bagels. The message was a time-worn tale of the hideousness of London’s inevitable shifts recorded ever since the time of Pepys. Peckham was nicer when it was a bit terrifying, it says, and is ruined now that it’s fashionable and one can buy artisan pasta and a drinkable negroni. If that last sentence makes your teeth itch, I should add that Saul is a caucasian man and rock musician, the former guitarist with band Fat White Family, which is either a moot point, Grace Dent, thank you very much, or, the last straw that leads you to begin tearing this magazine to strips, deranged with frustration. None of this ‘regeneration’ stuff is easy. I mention this as, this issue, I’m making a further announcement of the nowness, the newness, the enhanced fashionableness of Deptford, SE8, which crops up buoyantly in conversation these days among the food crowd. I won’t say foodies. That’s very unfashionable, by the way. Deptford is experiencing an almost identical shake-up to the one that Peckham once did, transmogrifying from a postcode which works as a punchline — ‘And next thing I knew, I woke up in Deptford!’ — into a less gritty, more ponderous
marcella 165a Deptford High Street, SE8 (020 3903 6561; marcella.london)
1
Saffron arancini
£5.50
1
Tagliatelle with girollles
£7.50
1
Bucatini with salsiccia
£7.50
1
Blackcurrant ripple ice cream £4
2
Negroni
£12
2
Glasses of Gavi di Gavi
£12
Total
£48.50
place, with the beautified Deptford Market Yard frothing with food and booze like Little Nan’s Bar, Mama’s Jerk and Dirty Apron. Along the road, Winemakers Deptford has been a quietly revolutionary presence. It boasts a destination menu stuffed with ever-changing small plates. Its wine list will make the swiller and gurgler in your party look gleeful and immediately begin ordering Italian Contra Soarda orange wine, which resembles a Monday-morning urine sample if you spent Friday until Sunday at a squat rave. So, don’t shoot the messenger, but Deptford is certainly having a moment. Where this leaves all the indigenous residents on the circumference of this moment is a heady question, but if you want to make your own mind up, I can think of nowhere nicer to begin than Marcella, the new addition to the high street and the sister to Peckham’s Artusi. Marcella is continuing Borough’s Padella tradition of proffering simple plates of heavenly and relatively pocket-friendly, seasonally changing pasta, like the fresh tagliatelle with girolles, which I sucked into my face, emitting savage-like sounds on my last visit. Or a fantastic plate of deftly seasoned bucatini with salsiccia. The saffron arancini were both delicious and vividly sunset-coloured. And they do a great negroni for £6 and Gavi di Gavi by the glass. Service is gorgeous and chipper. There are, indeed, larger sharing plates of delights such as bream stuffed with fennel and clams or Hereford short rib, but when excellent pasta is on offer, sometimes it’s good to stay simple, then round off with a humble bowl of homespun blackcurrant ripple ice cream. There’s a stack of things to love at Marcella, as there is in modern Deptford at a wider level. It’s about 10 minutes from Cannon Street to Deptford High Street by train. In fact, the place is probably easier to get in and out of than Hackney, and I prefer Winemakers and Marcella to anywhere east right now. Therefore, I officially declare Deptford fashionable. God help their mortal souls. Saul, crank up the printing machine, we’re going to need more hats.
15.09.17 es magazine 129
feast
tart london Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison get in the mood
for London Fashion Week with a party-starting cocktail
Harvest festival: a lavish selection of glorious veg lands on the Tart table
Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison
Josh Shinner
T
he long hot days of summer might be over, but that’s no reason to stop sipping deliciously cold cocktails. We felt particularly inspired this year in terms of drinks, and we’re thrilled to be serving some up during London Fashion Week. Cocktails no longer consist solely of vodka or gin and tonic, or sickly sweet concoctions pumped with sugar and colourings. Everywhere you look in London, bartenders are muddling interesting herbal ingredients such as bay leaves, rosemary and thyme, juicing seasonal fruits and adding heat with spices or smoked jalapeños. We’ve both said in the past that we’d love to be mixologists. It would be so cool to come up with different drinks — although we might not get much work done if we spent all day in the office tinkering and hiccupping. We have had great insider tips from some of the best. One that comes to mind was the pop-up we did at The Richmond Bar and Restaurant in Dalston, where we were taught how to stir and shake Argentinian-style drinks. One involved milking fennel. We also love working with the Rum Runner consultancy, which creates elegant, seasonally focused cocktails with a twist. We’ve been enjoying the cocktail featured here all summer. Tequila is our favourite party spirit, and it’s particularly delicious infused with passion fruit, lavender and lime. Definitely a great drink to get your Fashion Week off to a flying start.
Serves 1
passion for fashion
60ml tequila 30ml passion fruit liqueur 2 tsp passion fruit juice 2 tbsp lime juice 1 tsp agave syrup 3 drops lavender bitters (optional) 1 sprig of bashed fresh lavender (optional)
Shake all ingredients with ice and fine-strain into a chilled margarita glass.
15.09.17 es magazine 131
In the MIX
Just peachy: bellinis, below, and Absolut Elyx, right, will star in the frow at LFW
R in a big way. Fendi toasted its F is Fendi pop-up at Harrods Ahoy there! a salty dog with peachy Prosecco and silky, citrusy white ladies (gin, triple sec and lemon), while at Hermès’ launch for its new Twilly d’Hermès No LFW party is the place perfume, De Rougemont’s rather to be without a fabulous dashing bartenders poured white peach and ginger bellinis alongside sandalwood cocktail, says Frankie McCoy manhattans. Retro with a twist — totes chic. tomping down catwalks and Some fashion houses keep drinks regional sprinting from frow to frow is — Italian label Fiorucci is serving Martini thirsty work, you know, and fashion vermouth at its massive LFW party — while types love a party — which is why younger designers go for quirky, trashily fun London Fashion Week is a beautifully boozy drinks to stimulate their party pals. At haven of fabulous cocktails. And while lowMarkus Lupfer’s presentation guests will be calorie neat vodka and flutes of champagne sucking on Lic alcoholic ice lollies (below), are traditional fashion fuel drinks, this AW while at Fenwick, Henry Holland and pals there’s an ocean of other tipples to soothe spent last Wednesday evening knocking weary fashionistas. Mostly thanks to the back Coors Light (‘the true American beer creative will of Bertie de Rougemont, so perfectly matched to the country theme founder of catering company Cellar Society, of the AW17 Woody Woodpecker whose client list reads like a whistlecollaboration’, as Holland puts it) stop tour of London, Paris, New and Shiraz from Holland’s favourite York and Milan fashion weeks. winery, Bird in Hand — a wine Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci… that’s not only ‘elegant and you name the brand, De sophisticated, just like Fenwick Rougemont’s team has mixed the of Bond Street’ but guaranteed drinks, even, famously, creating the not to set off Holland’s crippling champagne tower for Kate Moss’s heartburn. Hard partiers who wedding to Jamie Hince in 2011. suffer, take note. This season, favourites include ‘old But when it comes to the biggest afterCubans’ (Havana Club Anejo Especial, party of all — LOVE magazine’s model and lime juice, cane sugar and fresh mint, designer-packed shindig — clear spirits and shaken, strained and served in a martini bubbles still rule. Come Monday, the glass with a splash of champagne); English frazzled yet still fabulous fashion elite negronis (Sacred gin, spiced English will be knocking back magnums of vermouth, Sacred Rosehip Cup and Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque (right) and Scrappy’s orange bitters); Potocki vodka or litres of Elyx, Absolut’s posh copperHalf Hitch gin Martinis, smoky mezcal distilled vodka that’s slightly sweet margaritas made with blood orange and spicy — and better for hangovers Cointreau; and, hic, salty dogs (vodka, pink (allegedly). Because cocktails rule, grapefruit juice and soda with a salt rim). but LFW wouldn’t be LFW without Peach puree, meanwhile, is the cocktail the double turbocharge of accessory of the season, as bellinis come back champagne and vodka, darling.
Fluid fashion
S
132 es magazine 15.09.17
Douglas Blyde hears how an ex-hairdresser became a UK wine pioneer
ays after rain make bulbous splashes on the Chardonnay vines sparkle. In the shadow of the South Downs I hear how a former hairdresser turned the hobby of greenfingered parents into a flag waver. Under Sam Linter’s direction, Bolney’s fizz was England’s first to soothe top flyers on British Airways, while her Pinot Gris became a still English pioneer when it was served at Wimbledon. The story started in 1972 when, wanting to recreate wines tried in Germany closer to home, Linter’s father turned a chicken farm into a vineyard. She recalls tending vines amid strawberries, sweetcorn and marrows in their ‘market garden’ — a cure to the bullying she endured at school. ‘Childhood was a mix of slave labour and utter freedom!’ Linter spent a decade as a hairdresser, later going on to teach hairdressing. On becoming a mother-oftwo, she yearned to continue work, this time in the family fold. She studied winemaking at nearby Plumpton College. ‘In 1995, it was still early days for English wine and our five acres.’ In the mint green offices, a map of the USA pinpoints 16 states buying Bolney, including New York, Illinois and Louisiana. ‘Americans love our fresh, dry fizz.’ Tokyo, which Linter visited in May, does too. ‘Japanese somms gave us a great reception.’ But Linter’s favourite wine bears no bubbles. ‘I was told we’d never make good red in England. But I like challenges.’ She shares a TV clip from 2010, when her lithe Pinot Noir conquered Burgundy in a blind tasting. As stainless steel tanks are unwrapped in the winery, Linter declares her aim to expand production to 300,000 bottles yearly. ‘From making wines no one wanted, to people knocking on our door, I’ve seen the English wine industry pull itself up in 25 years.’ (bolneywineestate.com)
Jonny Cochrane; glassware available at waterford.co.uk
FEAST
HOMEWORK From the Pentax calendar 1980 (July) by Guy Bourdin
HOusE beautiful Dipal Acharya gets a glimpse inside the Kensington home of celebrity facialist Teresa Tarmey
© The Guy Bourdin estate, courtesy Louise Alexander Gallery. Hair and make-up by Yulia Yurchenko
PHOTOGRAPHs BY sophia spring
B
ehind the powder blue, neoclassical façade of Teresa Tarmey’s Kensington home, the fashion world’s favourite facialist has created a home that’s every bit as glamorous as her client list. ‘Moving day was interesting,’ she laughs. ‘I arrived at 7am to meet the landlady with the keys and at the same time there was an HSS hire van pulling up with the biggest ladders you have ever seen, along with a gang of decorators. We literally came in like Supermarket Sweep to get everything finished as quickly as possible.’ The grand five-storey property serves a dual purpose. The lower two floors are dedicated to a salon space in which Tarmey’s clients can unwind in two hyper-
Old Victorian tiles mix with Tarmey’s modern aesthetic
Teresa Tarmey in her salon, where smudged painted walls are a feature
modern treatment rooms, while the upper levels are used mainly as her living area. Tarmey, 40, is far too polite to go into detail about the state of the house when she moved in April (the previous occupants were a family of four who decided to relocate to Australia, renting their London pad to Tarmey while on their adventures), but she was determined to bring her own aesthetic to the space, which retains original features such as Victorian tiles in the hallway and restored parquet flooring. Take the walls in the open-plan salon —
15.09.17 es magazine 135
Drinks trolley from Les Trois Garçons
painted in swirling shades of midnight blue and blush pink — which were a labour of love. ‘I didn’t want block paint and Carole Langton [the interior designer, and mother of socialite India Langton] put me off using wallpaper. I would have been hit with thousands and thousands of pounds if I had.’ Instead, Tarmey enlisted the services of a Newcastle-based A teal Barker and Stonehouse sofa in the salon artisan she discovered on Pinterest, who ‘spray-painted, smudged and rollered on the colours’ to create an effect that is truly original. ‘It’s really like a work of art,’ Tarmey says. On
“I’m obsessed with lights. I don’t collect them but I am always drawn to them” closer inspection it becomes apparent that wallpaper has also been used sparingly throughout the home (a monochrome Fornasetti design in the downstairs loo and contrasting hothouse floral paper from House of Hackney along the staircase). The moody colours in the salon neatly offset Tarmey’s growing collection of antique brass (‘from Circus Antiques in Kensal Rise, they do brilliant art deco and mid-century modern style things’), Perspex shelving and tables, and a pair of Frenchstyle chandeliers. ‘I’m obsessed with lights. I wouldn’t say I collect them but I am always drawn to them. They
‘Coffee table books can make the simplest of tables look luxurious’
Plants feature through out the five-storey house, lightening up its spaces
become so important to me, to the point where I’m telling the electrician exactly how many bulbs to put in or asking the girls [who work with Tarmey] to constantly adjust them according to the time of day.’ Tarmey’s own light is in the ascendant. Having been born and brought up in Sheffield, she moved to London almost 10 years ago to open up her first treatment room, based in the (not-soupscale) Shepherd’s Bush Fitness First (‘really, really tiny’). A small-but-steady client base soon won her the freedom to open her own beauty rooms, first based out of her home in Belsize Park and then later in Westbourne Grove, and work with brands such as Chanel and Heliocare. Although Tarmey’s current client roster is strictly confidential, there’s a signed black and white photograph of Kate Moss, fag in hand and topless, reading simply ‘Teresa,
15.09.17 es magazine 137
Tarmey in one of the two treatment rooms contained within the house
Above, a gift from Kate Moss; below, bathrooms feature Aesop and Chanel
“I wanted to create a kit that people can use at home, just really simple easy steps that make a difference” you’re the best!!’ She has also been linked in the press to the likes of Sara MacDonald (wife of Noel Gallagher — ‘one of my favourite clients, a walking ambassador’), Naomie Harris and Poppy Delevingne. The latter even flew her out to the Maldives for the opening of the swanky Finolhu resort, and for a week-long beach party that she co-hosted with sister Cara and aunt Melinda Stevens (the editor of British Condé Nast Traveller). ‘It was the best time of my life, I can honestly say that, and credit to them that everyone got on so well.’ She was so enchanted by the Maldives
get the look
Coffee table books ‘I love them; my most precious is one I picked up for £40 by Guy Bourdin; now it’s a collectors’ piece.’
138 es magazine 15.09.17
that she has taken up residence at a hotel there, though her more immediate focus is the launch of her own line of ‘At Home’ kits in November. Having suffered from chronic acne, she has always ‘wanted to create a kit people can use a home, just really simple easy steps that make a difference. I think that clients are now getting very educated through the likes of bloggers and social media, but I do think that there’s a lot of wrong information out there,’ she says. It’s a passion project that has taken her around the world in search of the perfect ingredients for her infusions through to a
Candles ‘I’m loving Casa Carta as it is a small independent company and the candles are handmade in the UK. I love the Bee Collection.’ Casa Carta small Bee candle, £58 (casacarta.com)
plants ‘I have plants in each room. They can really lighten up a space. I even love to water them, it makes me feel I am looking after something that needs to live. For flowers and any advice on the plant side, I’m obsessed with Darren Baxter’s Flowers.’ (@baxtersflowers)
bespoke TT roller which will come with each kit. All the travelling makes time spent at home now all the more precious — which is why her next big personal project will be the living areas that dominate the upper floors of the property. ‘The most important room for me in a home is the bedroom, but it’s the one I’ve left to the end.’ (teresatarmey.com) Cushions ‘Cushions can really add an impact and dress a room. I love Rockins cushions — they add rock’n’roll to any room.’ Rockins cushions, from £90 (rockins. co.uk)
Chanel anything ‘I’m lucky enough to receive gifts from Chanel, so I dress the house, bathroom and even client bathrooms with perfumes for people to try.’ Chanel Sycomore perfume (75ml), £140 (chanel.com) The scent ‘Cire Trudon room spray is incredible; it fills the house and everyone who walks through the door remarks on it. It feels and looks so luxurious.’ Cire Trudon Spiritus Sancti, £170, at amara.com
FLASHBULB! Party pictures from around town by FRANKIE M c COY photographs by james peltekian Rita Ora
Adwoah Aboah
Vanessa Kingori Tinie Tempah
Tracey Emin
Sadiq Khan
Susie and Nick Cave
Anna Friel and Jared Leto
Jourdan Dunn
Ronan Keating
Jeremy Corbyn and Stormzy
Annabelle Wallis Patrick Grant
Menly men, Bankside
There was enough testosterone to make the Turbine Hall quite hazy, as the GQ Men of the Year awards kicked off at Tate Modern. Liam Gallagher, Jared Leto and Courtney Love strutted down the red carpet through a military formation of male models to sip Copper Dog slushies and watch Sergei Polunin pirouette, and Jeremy Corbyn presented Stormzy with the Solo Artist of the Year award before the grime artist ran off to snap selfies with Ronan Keating over seriously delicious beef and beetroot tartare.
Maya Jama Skepta and Erin O’Connor
James Norton
Courtney Love
Natalie Dormer
Liam Gallagher
Leah Wood
Eric Underwood
Laura Whitmore and Raye Natalie Salmon and Lily Worcester
Bettina Looney and Soraya Bakhtiar
The F Word, Knightsbridge Tigerlily Taylor
Milan Fashion Week was too far away for Fendi fans Leah Wood, Laura Whitmore and Raye, who got their F fix at the launch of the F is Fendi popup at Harrods, where Zara Martin’s DJing proved the perfect soundtrack for Eric Underwood’s impromptu spin session on a tandem bike.
GO TO eveningstandard.co.uk / ESMAGAZINE FOR MORE PARTY PICTURES
Anna Rosa Vitiello
Tess Ward
15.09.17 es magazine 141
FLASHBULB! Party pictures from around town Laura Weir and Hikari Yokoyama finding each other hilarious
Camilla Rutherford
Camilla Lowther and Charles Aboah
Azzi Glasser
Claudia Schiffer
Trek chic, Haymarket
Marc Newson
Hiking, as you know, is totes fash right now (see page 47), so no wonder oh-so-cool Japanese brand Sacai celebrated its collaboration with The North Face at Dover Street Market, where Susie Lau, Alex Fury and Charles Aboah tucked into marinated lamb rump, sea bass and fresh fruit eclairs. Beats camping stove sausage ’n’ beans.
Debbie Wong and Tim Sedo
Mark Strong Yasmin Mills and Maria Kastani
Cellar society, St James
Clever Kingsman 2 producers — giving Berry Bros & Rudd a film role guaranteed a well-oiled shindig for their pop-up with Mr Porter. Claudia Schiffer and Mark Strong chatted, while Yasmin Mills proved adept at hunting veggie canapes — a skill worthy of any secret agent.
Chitose Abe
Paola Mantilla and Ben Freeman
Idina Moncreiffe and Julius Getty
Sarah Ueta
Charlotte Wiggins and Sam Rollinson Eve Delf
Susie Lau
Leila Bartell Laura Pradelska
Noelle Reno
Sasha Brown
La vie en rose, Mayfair
Vikram Kansara
It came up roses for florist Nikki Tibbles at 5 Hertford Street, who launched her premium collection with Bloom & Wild. A posy of guests included Jasper Conran, Laura Pradelska, Tessa Packard and dog Smartie.
Harriet Verney
Olivia Singer
Victoria Sekrier
Marissa Montgomery and Daisy de Villeneuve
Rosanna Falconer and Sarah Ann Macklin
Nikki Tibbles and Pippa Vosper Jasper Conran
Walking tall: the Singapore skyline
escape
EDITED by dipal acharya
Where to shop Dover Street Market Singapore DSM Singapore, the brainchild of the fashion designer Rei Kawakubo, is unlike any of the other DSM stores and not just because of the city’s unique climate. The space is surprisingly located on Dempsey Hill, an ex-army camp where you don’t really find other stores. It’s very much a lifestyle destination. I visit any new Sacai space that’s about to open to check the set-up but, more than anything, the reason I most wanted to visit the Singapore site was because I was so intrigued as to why Rei wanted to open in Singapore, and this area specifically. After my visit I was so inspired by how unique the location and store is.
make more of SINGAPORE Sacai’s creative director, Chitose Abe, delivers an insider’s guide to the city’s most stylish side
Where to stay
Capella Hotel on sentosa The high-end Capella hotel, with its tropical vegetation and private surroundings, is a perfect location for winding down. The complex, designed by Foster + Partners, is an idiosyncratic hybrid of beautiful colonial bungalows with a contemporary influence. The Warehouse Hotel A beautifully refurbished warehouse in Robertson Quay, The Warehouse comes with a rich history as it was once part of the trading route.
Dover Street Market
Sacai X The North Face runway AW17
Designer influence: the Capella hotel on Sentosa
What to do
Alamy
Gardens by the Bay The futuristic Supertree Grove (left) is an uplifting mix of nature and architecture unlike anything you would find elsewhere. For me, this defines Singapore. Haji Lane A tiny lane in the Kampong Glam area filled with an electric mix of great cafés, restaurants and shops.
Where to eat
The Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar Here you will find great food and service with a casual-chic vibe and a colonial ambience. We didn’t know that the restaurant was led by the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten until we left. It’s definitely a place to come back to. restaurant AndrÉ A restaurant worth a plane trip to! Potato Head This is a definite stop for its food and music and the chilled chaos that’s almost Bali-like.
Potato Head
Dessert from Restaurant André
15.09.17 es magazine 145
MY LONDON
GILES DEACON AS TOLD TO LILY WORCESTER
Home is… Smithfield, near a plague pit.
Biggest extravagance? Watercolour inks (left) from Dr Ph Martin’s are frequently the only thing I pack when holidaying. They’re also useful for slowly decorating the clothes I’ve travelled in so people think I’m changing daily.
Last play you saw? 887 by Robert Lepage at the Barbican — it’s autobiographical and was utterly captivating.
Best thing a cabbie has ever said to you? ‘You’re not getting in here with THAT’ — referring to my vegetable samosa.
Where would you recommend for a first date? Mudlarking along the banks of the Thames. My other half Gwendoline [Christie] and I always find sharing a metal detector most romantic. If you had to be locked in a building overnight, which would it be? Sir John Soane’s Museum so I could do some intricate plaster rubbings, alone. Ever had a run in with a policeman? I once got a slap on the wrist for trying to touch a policeman’s helmet. Best meal you’ve had? A recent memorable one was with Jeremy Lee from Quo Vadis, who cooked me up an eel sandwich right in front of my very glasses-clad eyes.
146 ES MAGAZINE 15.09.17
The designer sips cocktails at St John, buys art materials at L Cornelissen & Son and romances on the banks of the Thames Best piece of advice? My nanny would say, ‘When in doubt, mumble.’ Earliest London memory? Striding into Harrods wearing a pair of tweed flares to go and buy the new Crusaders album, Street Life. I was nine. Who do you call when you want to have fun? Katie Grand, Sting and Kit Harington (left ). What would you do if you were Mayor for the day? Organise the world’s longest conga line along the Thames, starting at Tate Modern and ending at Tate Britain.
Favourite London discovery? Bunhill Fields cemetery [Old Street], the resting place of William Blake. It was the burial ground for radicals and has a peaceful whispering quality. Favourite pub? Ye Olde Mitre, off Hatton Garden. It’s full of fantastic characters and the walls still echo with the skullduggery of yesteryear. Most romantic thing someone’s done for you? Being taken up The Shard (right) on Valentine’s Day.
First thing you do when you arrive back in London? Slip seamlessly into St John restaurant — my dear friend Fergus Henderson is a legendary chef. The food (right) is sensational and the cheery staff are always ready to twist off a refreshing cocktail. Which shops do you rely on? L Cornelissen & Son [Great Russell Street] for drawing and painting materials and Labour and Wait [Redchurch Street] for pencil sharpeners and tea pots. Last album you bought? Cigarettes After Sex by Cigarettes After Sex — it’s super to draw to. Giles Deacon will be speaking at Brides The Show on 29 September (bridestheshow. co.uk)
Rex; Alamy
If you could buy any London building, which would it be? Two Temple Place (above); it was built for William Waldorf Astor and has a mesmerising view of the Thames.