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The UK's No.1 sewing mag

Spring

FORWARD L Boost your stash with bright fabric picks L Quick home projects!

L Join Alison Smith MBE's couture blouse sew-along Sizes

IT'S PATRICK GRANT!

Exclusive Sewing Bee gossip Fresh ideas to

TRY TODAY

16-24

SUPER-SIZED KWIK SEW BAG

MASTERCLASS Sew your best fitting skirt yet!

ISSUE 63 50 UK £8.99 £5.99

Inspire Imagine Create

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FUN SEWING STORAGE

See Becca's shirtdress on page 21!

Meet the

TEAM

‌ to issue 63 of Love Sewing elcome to our-new look Love Sewing.

With a new year starting we thought we'd make some improvements to the magazine. We're offering more pattern gifts, we've increased our dressmaking content and we've included bigger and better in-depth articles to inspire and entertain you. So settle back with a cuppa and let's dive in.

W

See our newest design on page 22

Amy EDITOR Amy loves both sewing and publishing so this is her perfect job and she hopes to inspire you in every issue. Her creativity is contagious, see more on her Instagram account almondrock_sews

Our McCall's pattern gift this month is a timeless shirtdress that features different hem lengths, sleeve styles and those allimportant pockets!

Find our versions on page 18 onwards.

Love Sewing reader Becca has made a glam dress using double gauze with embroidered gold dots. You'll love her review on page 21.

We're also pleased to announce the relaunch of Threadcount patterns with the 5-in-1 Skirt pack. These wardrobe staple skirts are great for small amounts of fabric and include lovely touches like princess seams for a better fit, different styles of darts and high-waisted styles for a vintage silhouette. Plus, you'll love our clever expanding bag pattern from Kwik Sew!

Sewing Bee gossip on page 28!

Lorna

We've also gone Sewing Bee crazy over here at Love Sewing HQ with the start of the new series!

We chat to head judge Patrick on page 28 in an exclusive behind-the-scenes interview. He spills the beans on some of the upcoming challenges, why he's excited to work with Joe Lycett and about the secret judges' WhatsApp group he and Esme are part of! We also caught up with some of the former contestants and quizzed them about their time on the show over on page 10. It's set to be another corker of a year so don't forget to watch along with us and sign up to our newsletter at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk to stay on top of all the Sewing Bee gossip yet to be revealed.

DEPUTY EDITOR Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for dressmaking, embroidery and making magazines. She's excited to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@ lovesewingmag.co.uk

Nicola ART EDITOR Nicola is passionate about design and has a sharp eye for detail. She loves creating new illustrations and takes her inspiration from her home town, Manchester.See more on her Instagram calico_creative

Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES Welcome 3 6 Love Sewing Loves 10 We catch up with the former Sewing Bee contestants!

12 Machine review 14 The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake 21 Reader review: McCall’s 6891 26 SUBSCRIBE TODAY 28 Sewing Bee secrets with with Patrick Grant!

36 Fabric focus – Save 10% on fabric at Minerva Crafts 38 Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie 44 Shop of the month 46 Sewing workshops 53 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE 57 DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS 62 Readers’ makes 64 PATTERN READING BASICS & FITTING ESSENTIALS 73 15 minutes with Seasalt Cornwall 76 Radiant rayon fabric masterclass 80 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 84 Pattern picks – 20% off patterns at Jaycotts

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4 dresses to make

PROJECTS

Receive 26 spools of Madeira thread when you suscribe to Love Sewing – see page 26 for further info

86 A Brief History of the bikini with Wendy Ward 90 READER OFFER 95 In the good books 96 Coming next issue 98 This month I’m making

18 Your McCall’s pattern gift – stylish shirtdresses 22 Your Threadcount pattern gift – 5-in-1 essential skirt pack 31 Your Kwik Sew pattern gift – clever expandable tote bags 34 Start at the top simple blouse 42 Buckle up lunch bag 49 Stitch happy denim dress 68 Dish of the day trinket bowls 69 True blue button-down skirt 79 Pick of the bunch appliqué hoop 92 See the sunny side blouse

Find us online www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

lovesewingmag

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Editorial 22

Editor Amy Scarr Deputy Editor Lorna Malkin Chief Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Sub-Editor Chantelle Salkeld Lead Designer Nicola Vernon-Smith Designer Sher Ree Tai Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

Publishing & Advertising

12

Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

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31

Distribution Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd Tel 0844 826 0613

Ultimate skirt pack

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

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Subscription Enquiries Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

Exclusive Patrick Grant interview

Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

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CONTRIBUTORS Fiona Hesford

Aneka Truman

Fiona is the creative mind behind Sewgirl, a range retroinspired of patterns and kits for adults and children. Why not make her embellished-effect denim shift dress on page 49. Visit Fiona’s shop at www.sewgirl.co.uk to see the full range on offer.

Owner of Made to Sew Aneka offers sewing classes online and in person across the world. She shares free instructional videos on YouTube through her channel madetosew and has a range of dressmaking patterns available at www.madetosew. com. Try her asymmetric button front skirt on page 69.

Claire Tyler Claire has been a dressmaking tutor for many years and teaches workshops at her sewing school, The Midhurst Sewing Room in Sussex, and at The Knitting and Stitching shows. Try her quick and fun top on page 34 and visit www. claire-tyler.com to find out more about upcoming classes!

Wendy Ward As well as being the author of three books and an experienced tutor, Wendy has a range of easy-to-follow sewing patterns called MIY Collection. On page 86 she’s sharing the history of the bikini! Step into Wendy’s world at www.wendyward.co.uk and www.miycollection.com

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Mary Quant n o i t i b i h x e The Mary Quant Beauty Bus, 1971 © INTERFOTO Alamy Stock Photo

The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

ROLL ON

RETRO Whether it's for garden parties or lunch with the girls, the Simplicity 8691 dress is one that you will be reaching for year after year. The pattern features two variations, allowing you to alter the sleeve length and add pockets.

Both dress options feature a pretty sweetheart neckline, princess seams and a pleated, swish-worthy skirt.

Sizes: 6-14 and 14-22 Price: Paper pattern £9.50 from www.sewessential.co.uk

Label of love Mary Quant and models at the Quant Afoot footwear collection launch, 1967 © PA Prints 2008

Tickets are now on sale for the Mary Quant V&A exhibition that opens on 6th April next year. Known for her refreshing, fun and empowering designs, Quant redefined fashion in the late 20th century and encouraged women to move away from the sartorial conservatism defining their wardrobes post war. She was an advocate for accessible fashion and sought to make her pieces available to the masses. The exhibit will feature over 200 definitive garments and accessories from the designer’s personal collection as well Satin mini-dress and shorts by pieces never previously seen. Tickets Mary Quant, photograph by are £12. For more information and to Duffy, 1966 © Duffy Archive book visit www.vam.ac.uk

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Personalise your garments with these quirky slogan labels from Kylie and the Machine. Each pack includes eight high-quality, Oeko-Tex certified, woven labels that you can sew onto the inside or outside of your handmade items. They’re machine washable, soft and durable, and there are a host of colourful designs and mottos to choose from. Each pack is priced at £5.40 and can be bought from www.fabricateshop.co.uk

That's a

WRAP

Channel chic, French style with this new skirt pattern from I AM patterns. The Perrine features a flattering front – wrap fastening with an invisible zip, button detailing and two garment options varying in length. Sew in your choice of flannel, tartan, tweed or denim for the ultimate winter staple.

Sizes: 36-46 (European sizes) Price: €12 (approximately £10.81) from www.iampatterns.fr

Stacey's

CORNER Stacey

Stacey is a renowned textile artist and freemotion embroidery expert.

Every month, she will be sharing useful tips and tricks to help you achieve sewing success.

CLEAN SWEEP Come rain or shine you won’t want to be without this vibrant matt laminate fabric from Cloud9. The range includes a mix of bold prints from Briagell Perret, Leah Duncan, Lisa Baudry amongst others and is a great option for raincoats, wash bags, tablecloths and more. To browse the range and find a stockist near you, visit www.hantexonline.co.uk

BRING YOUR A-GAME

Top tip!

Brother has launched a new line of Innov-is sewing machines, dubbed the A series.

Our favourite is the A150 (£499), with its advanced stitch program and ergonomicallyfriendly design, this machine has been built for longevity and adaptability. It includes 150 decorative stitches as well as 10 buttonhole stitches and four fonts so you can add those detailed finishing touches to your makes and personalise them to suit. Sewists will also appreciate the advanced oneaction needle threader, needle stop position and quick-set bobbin feature. To read more about this model and others stocked by Brother, visit www.brothersewing.co.uk

February equals love and vibrant hues of red Be sparing when you and pink, stitch into cardboard as making me swoon with it may rip. Pre-appliqué inspiration! heavily stitched designs I have been onto a background cloth busy making before sewing onto Valentine’s cards and the card using every variant of heart shape possible! I am a big fan of using my scissors as a drawing tool, rarely pre-drawing the fabric shapes I cut out. I take my shapes and position them onto blank cards, playfully rearranging opaque and transparent layers until I'm satisfied with the design. I then sparingly use the sewing machine to appliqué them into place. Voilà, handmade love!

INSPIRATION Henri Matisse was the master of this technique, creating his artwork after his eyesight faded.

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Timeless

Cast your

APPEAL

NET Ever tried sewing with lace or net fabric?

These sheer beauties make for gorgeous garments and we love the pretty detailing on the fabric stocked by Croft Mill. Its range of lace and net fabric includes a mix of floral lace, mesh and embroidered net.

Use them atop a solid coloured fabric to create pretty tops and dresses that will really show off your dressmaking skills.

Shop the range at www.croftmill.co.uk

LEARNING CURVE

Bestselling author and Love Sewing columist, Alison Smith MBE has launched an exciting new venture in Ashby de la Zouch. Sew (your own) Wardrobe is a new retail shop on Market Street aiming to cater to those who love sewing and want to shop for all their supplies in one place. Customers can purchase a range of patterns, fabric and haberdashery that will enable them to build an entire made-me wardrobe. If you’re eager to build your skills, Alison is running the School of Sewing above the shop. To find out more, visit www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

IN THE BAG We love an environmentally-friendly shopper that’s stylish too and these new EcoTote bags from Search Press certainly fit the bill. Each bag is designed by well-known crafters, including Bonnie K Hunter, Paula Doyle, Victoria Findlay Wolfe and Deborah Kemball and are composed of recycled water bottles making them water resistant and durable. Each bag is really spacious and features a short and long handle so you can carry it over your shoulder or on your arm – you’ll never want to leave the house without it! Bags range from £7.99-£9.99 from www.searchpress.com

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Vintage style never goes out of fashion and this new pattern from Til The Sun Goes Down showcases the best of 1930s style. The pattern features three garment options which include two dresses with inverted pleats, sleeve variations and the option of adding those all-important pockets, as well as a semifitted pleated skirt which hugs at the hips and gently flares out to just below the knee giving the skirt a bit of movement and swing.

Sizes: 8-24 Price: Paper pattern £18 from www tilthesungoesdown.com

CRUNCH TIME We love a bit of sustainable sewing and this new washable paper from M is for Make brings a whole new meaning to fabric shopping. Whip up a variety of home-décor makes with this nifty, tear and water-resistant material which not only looks great but can be washed up to 40° and works in harmony with your sewing machine! It’s available in gold, rose gold and silver.

Price: £16.50 each from www.misformake.co.uk

www.rico-design.de

www.rico-design.de

In good hands Keep this quick-absorbing cream close by whenever you’re crafting. SEAMS hand cream is specially formulated for crafters as it keeps your mitts nice and soft but most importantly it won’t mark your fabric. The Love Sewing team tried and tested this product and loved the shea butter, macadamia and fragonia oil recipe – it works a treat! Pick up a tube for £14 from www.clothspot.co.uk

STITCH SISTERS Sewing duo Stitch Sisters are bringing their fabulous classes to the web! Their new range of video based sewing classes will address a variety of crafts from homeware to dressmaking and the learning database will be updated weekly meaning there’s plenty of fun projects for everyone to try! To browse the full range of affordable classes on offer visit www.thestitchsisters.co.uk

Pretty prints Kick start your 2019 crafting by adding this beautiful fabric to your stash. Alice Caroline has launched two brandnew Liberty collections – English Eccentrics and the 40th Anniversary Classics Collection. These new SS19 ranges marry new Liberty designs with re-coloured favourites, showcasing a vibrant mix of dynamic shapes and characters that would be perfect for your dressmaking range and home-décor projects. The ‘English Eccentrics’ takes inspiration from the exciting excursions and experiences of seven influential figures including a pioneering botanist, an aristocratic poet and bohemian gardener. Celebrate the best of Liberty’s evocative colourways with the 40th Anniversary Classics Collection which shines the spotlight on some of its most-loved prints including the charming Strawberry Thief, Thorpe and Edenham. The new collections will be available from www.alicecaroline.co.uk.

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STITCHER'S STORY

Catch up with the SEWING BEES With a fantastic fifth series starting, we wanted to turn back the clock and visit with some of the lovely former contestants and winners of The Great British Sewing Bee. So what did we ask?

If you could time-travel back to your time on Sewing Bee, what advice would you give yourself?

"Make sure you finish the garment! For example, I was really proud of the boys' waistcoat I made, but I felt I let myself down by not sewing all the buttons on. Just threading that needle a minute or two earlier would have lifted me a couple of places for sure."

Matt Chapple, winner of Series 3 Follow Matt’s sewing adventures at www.sewwhatsnew.co.uk where you can find out about his dino-themed sewing kits, events, see recent projects and read Matt’s top tips.

"I'd tell myself not to take on too much in the made-to-measure challenges. As the weeks went on I realised doing less and doing it well was much more impressive than trying to demonstrate many techniques in one garment. Keep it simple and press the garments well!”

Jenniffer "Don't be to hard on yourself. Embrace every challenge and always check that your waistband is on the right way before you sew, especially when working with velvet!”

Jenniffer Taylor, contestant Series 2 Visit Jenniffer’s blog www.jenniffertaylor.co.uk for DIY and upcycling inspiration and don’t forget to share your sewing with her online using #sewingrevolution

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Matt

Angeline

Angeline Murphy, contestant Series 4 Catch up with all Angeline’s projects at www.angelinemurphy.com and we whole-heartedly recommend checking out Angeline’s Instagram account angelinemurphydesign for a healthy dose of sewing joy!

"For the very first task I always told myself that I would pick the most stable fabric, a nice easy cotton. So I'm not sure what possessed me when I picked a slinky slippery crêpe for the chevron top (having never sewn with it before). I would say sew with fabric you're confident with and, if you have time, try to practise sewing garments in fabric you're not confident in! I wish I had practised more with stretch fabric and slippery fabric.”

Rumana

Rumana Lasker, contestant Series 4 Rumana shares her creative journey on her blog www.thelittlepomegranate.co.uk and chats on Instagram, thelittlepomegranate, about all things stitchy.

Heather "The one thing that I would have liked to have done better was the alteration challenge, but because I'm fairly slow, the things that I initially had in my mind were impossible to do in the 90 minutes that were allocated. Before the Sewing Bee, I hadn't sewn for about five years so I was rather rusty, even though once I'd been chosen to be on the show I practically burnt out my machine with practice! If I went back now, I feel that I would really be able to do the challenge justice.

As the series went on, I improved, but it would have been nice to show I do have a more creative side that what I produced on the Bee.”

Lauren

Heather Jacks, winner Series 2 Chat with Heather about sewing, her fabulous dog pincushion or her favourite G&T on Twitter @heatherjacks9

"I'd tell myself to make sure I read all the instructions carefully and take care to mark all the notches.

I got the fly-front trousers mixed up because I wasn't reading the instructions. I ran out of time and messed up the collar on my man’s shirt because I didn't mark all the notches accurately. I'm quite a different sewist than I was back then and at the time I think I did the best I possibly could have done in the situation with what experience and the time I had – the time pressure is crazy!”

Lauren Guthrie, finalist Series 1 Visit Lauren’s fabulously curated shop at Moseley in Birmingham, or online at www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk. We also recommend picking up a copy of the book Learn to Sew with Lauren – a collection of simple and sweet projects.

"If I could travel back in time I'd have unpicked one of Tunde's (Chinelo’s husband) ties the night before the final (assuming, of course, that I had the luxury of hindsight), failing that I would tell myself to stop for five minutes during the tie task and gather my thoughts.

It all clicked at the last minute but was just too late. I still haven't attempted a tie, they're officially the stuff of nightmares.”

Chinelo

Chinelo Bally, finalist Series 2 For oodles of inspiration follow Chinello on Instagram chinelobally.

And don’t stop there; Freehand Fashion by Chinelo is a fabulous book about the unique free-cutting technique she showed us on the show.

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MACHINE

REVIEW

Juki is a leading provider of top quality and ergonomicallyfriendly machines.

Take a look at some of the latest models at www.jukiuk.com

BEST FOR BEGINNERS

R UNDE

£350

HZL-H60HR Kick start your dressmaking journey with the easy-to-use HZL-H60HR machine. Built with beginner sewists in mind, this machine harbours many impressive features to help novices surpass their limitations and build their sewing confidence. There are 40 stitches available which are all helpfully display on the machine’s exterior, as well as the easy-toadjust thread tension, a start/stop button and easy-to-view needle positions.

Should you be working with thicker fabric or on larger projects, there is a free arm available as well as an adjustable pressure foot.

BEST FOR PERFECTIONISTS HZL-G120 Enjoy creative freedom and achieve maximum precision with Juki’s HZL-G120. This fully computerised machine features Juki’s impressive box feed system, which moves the feed dog in a box motion, helping to smoothly feed fabric through the machine and achieve neat and unwavering seams. The automatic needle threader and drop feed system will help you economise your sewing time by enabling you to activate different features at the touch of a button. You can benefit from a large work area and, if working at night, the bright LED lights will ensure you can see you project clearly. There are 180 different stitches, which can be selected and adjusted via the large LCD screen.

Lorna

R UNDE

£650

BEST FOR PUSHING YOUR SKILLS HZL-DX7 Fluid stitch choreography and professional quality creations are easy to achieve with the HZL-DX7. This machine boasts 287 stitches and four fonts offering sewists creative flexibility and the chance to expand their sewing skills. The presser foot pivot function will enable you to sew corners and pivot fabric with ease. The machine is built to help you quickly select and adjust settings; you can enjoy free-motion stitching at the touch of a button and slide the straight stitch slide plate in place to enjoy maximum accuracy and also sew more efficiently with lightweight and delicate fabric. Troublesome buttonholes will become a thing of the past thanks to Juki’s unique buttonhole sensor system. This ergonomically-friendly machine is one that will save you time and make your sewing experience more enjoyable.

Amy

ND AROU

£1,300

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Turn wear and tear into a design feature by embellishing around any holes

The Karri dress is perfect for mixing small pieces of denim. Megan Nielsen patterns, £19.99 www.minervacrafts.com

Top tip!

This mixed denim oversized jacket by Assembly New York was made of recycled fabric

Search charity shops for extra-large pairs of jeans or denim jackets for recyclable source material

The second bonus for me is that denim is widely available in shades of indigo. This means that if I’m bulk-buying second-hand jeans to unpick and harvest fabric from, I can easily ensure that the garment I end up making from the harvested fabric will be fairly uniform, as opposed to if I were harvesting fabric from men’s shirts for example to make a dress, I would either have an impossibly hard time finding enough shirts in a similar print/colour, or my dress would have to be a mish-mash of many different colours or prints (which is

still great, but I think we can all agree that one can only have so many print-clashing patchwork dresses at one time).

The third bonus, before I get into the many wild and wonderful ways that denim lends itself to refashioning, is what a utter joy denim is to sew with.

It is stable and satisfying, with just enough give to make even tricky princess seams a breeze to make, denim is a friendly and approachable fabric for people with even the most basic of sewing skills. This means that anyone and everyone can, and should, get involved and have fun refashioning with denim.

MENDING Mending is perhaps not classifiable as refashioning if we’re being strict, but I strongly believe that in any conversation about refashioning, upcycling, recycling, repurposing and such, mending must be mentioned. Prolonging the life of our clothes, be they denim or otherwise, is so important. And contrary to the assumption that mending is messy, unsightly or scruffy, mending can be made so beautiful, it becomes the feature that makes a garment more special than it was before. I always think of the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with molten gold, ‘Kintsugi’, and the idea that those golden seams make the piece even more precious and meaningful.

The wonderful thing about mending denim is how creative you can be and how many resources there are out there

to help and inspire. Visible or invisible mending; floral embroidery or Japanese sashiko; patching in double denim or contrast fabric, there is so much scope for creative mending that it is truly an art form in itself.

I’m a big fan of visible mending through embroidery, and highly recommend the book Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh who is being interviewed in this issue over on page 95.

Find our skirt tutorial inside issue 34 at www.pocketmags.com

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EMBELLISHING In the same camp as mending, but assuming that there is nothing to repair, denim is the ultimate blank canvas to decorate. Think sprinklings of delicate floral embroidery, 70s hippie patches, D&G style pearls and rhinestones – the embellishment of plain denim is a fail-safe instant update to an item.

HARVESTING & PATCHWORKING This method of refashioning involves gathering pairs of second-hand garments, unpicking the seams and using the fabric to make something new as you usually would, albeit considering that you’ll have to get creative cutting pattern pieces from smaller, more awkwardly shaped cuts of fabric. This was the approach I took for The Refashioners 2016 themed #jeanius. From the two pairs of large men’s jeans I bought in my local charity shop for under a fiver, I made a fabulously figure-hugging wiggle dress using our Kim dress pattern whose princess panels lent themselves perfectly to my limited supply of fabric. But don’t think that only designs with small pattern pieces will work – you only have to look at the inspired ombré patchwork of Rosie Martin’s T-shirt dress (adapted from the Inari pattern

by Named Clothing) to start getting your mind around the possibilities!

REWORKING & CREATIVE ALTERATIONS A truly artistic approach to refashioning, made even more challenging with a nondrapey fabric like denim and restrictive garments like jeans, reworking is when someone will transform a garment by

Katrina Rodabaugh’s book Mending Matters teaches you the stitches and techniques you’ll need

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Cover your mending with fun embellishments like embroidered flower motifs

tweaking and manipulating the existing seams and design lines. This could involve taking a denim shirt and cutting across the yoke and neck, repositioning the sleeves around the upper arms and taking in the side seams to result in a fitted off the shoulder Brigitte Bardot-style top (please bear in mind that this approach is not my forté, so I’d suggest you go check out Portia’s blog www.makery.uk for some truly mindblowing denim refashioning inspiration).

Although I haven’t always been a huge denim fan, I now think denim just might be the queen of fabric. It is strong and durable, warm and comforting yet breathable and cool. It doesn’t shed microfibres in the wash (unlike plastic-based manmade fabric like polyester, nylon, acrylic and polyamide) and has proven to be timeless in fashion. For these reasons, combined with the tenuous environmental times we live in, doing all we can to make our jeans last longer, whether that be by mending or transforming – ticks all the boxes. I’m a believer, are you?

Turn your mending into an eye-catching feature of your garment

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex is the Head of Design and co-founder of By Hand London, an independent pattern company. It produces gorgeously designed, highquality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

Request your free fabric catalogue today!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17

Your

GIFT

Getting

SHIRTY Spring is the perfect time to make a classic button-down shirtdress!

Choose between different lengths, sleeve styles and add a stylish waist tie.

Every McCall's pattern comes with a helpful step-by-step guide designed to push your sewing skills further

VIEW C Make a dress that radiates sunshine by choosing a gorgeous golden hue. We love self-covered buttons for a co-ordinating look.

We used

Bella Solids by Moda in Marigold, ÂŁ7.96 per metre www.woolware house.co.uk

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Subscribe today to get a

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE, WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 26 for details

Mode qui va bien/ Moda que entalla

M6891

F A S H I O N T H AT F I T S A

Size Taille Talla

D

(8-10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24)

M6891_ENV

C

B

VIEW D A floaty shirtdress feels wonderful to wear, especially in a dramatic maxi length!

We used Printed cotton viscose twill, £12.95 per metre www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk

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MASTERCLASS

COLLARS & CUFFS Don't be afraid to try a lattering notch collar and cufed sleeve.

These traditional techniques have a few steps to follow but with our extra advice you'll get a lawless inish

TOP TIPS FOR SMOOTH SHIRTS 1 Remember that the interfaced upper collar piece should sit on the outside of the shirt when worn on a notched collar. This is so it sits nicely alongside the interfaced facing portion of the lower collar that folds to the outside.

You'll also interface the inner cuf pieces for View D that sit next to your skin on the inished sleeves.

2 For a lawless inish on the front, understitch the facing to the seam allowance up to the position of the top button. After that you'll need to roll the seam line slightly towards the RS of the front where the facing becomes the visible collar.

3 To create an even point on both sides of the collar you need to accurately transfer the dots and squares onto the collar, facing and front bodice pieces. Use a ine-pointed chalk pencil or air-erasable marker.

4 For perfect topstitching around collars and cufs, we recommend using an edge-stitching foot, or if you have a blind hem foot this will do in a pinch.

Run the plastic guide down the edge of your seam and ensure the needle is positioned to fall a neat distance away for a consistent stitching line.

5 Check the it of your sleeves before attaching the cufs as you may ind you need to add or reduce the length.

Similarly, if making View D, check the length of your sleeve tab before attaching it, as the sleeve should sit comfortably in the loop when rolled up above the elbow.

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eview eader R6891 RMcCall's Rebecca Woodward, the blogger behind www.redwsews.wordpress.com, reviews this issue’s McCall's pattern gift hen Love Sewing asked me to write this review, it was just the nudge I needed. I’ve been making lots of practical, everyday clothes but was long overdue an excuse to make a fabulous shirtdress.

W

I used double gauze to make the dress, which is quite lightweight but feels warm in weather and cool in warmer weather, which is perfect for this country! Mine is an Atelier Brunnette gauze from www.minervacrafts.com. It has beautiful little metallic gold dots embroidered all over so I matched these with gold buttons from Minerva Crafts as well!

For the first time, I properly followed the pattern instructions for tissue fitting before cutting my fabric.

Palmer/Pletsch patterns all come with instructions for how to test the fit this way.

I started with a size 14 based on the finished measurements. I then added 1.5cm to the sleeve bicep, dropped the front shoulder by 1cm, reduced the seam allowance at the waist by 1cm and made a sway back adjustment by reducing the centre back seam on the bodice and increasing it on the back skirt. The skirt adjustment is one I’d done before; for all the others, I followed the guidance in the pattern and used

the printed lines on the pattern to adjust it appropriately. This made life a lot easier! Whilst it did take me longer than my usual cut and go approach, adjusting the pattern in advance means my finished dress fits a lot better than things usually do straight out of the packet.

Sewing the dress itself was relatively straightforward. The only bit I found tricky was the notched collar.

Here the instructions caused some head scratching, but in the end I marked the seam allowances on the fabric, turned the speed on my machine right down and plunged in with care! The key seems to be flipping the seam allowances up and down as you change stitch direction. The end result isn’t perfect, but I’m happy.

My final change was to the skirt length; I originally cut view D, when I tried it on it felt an odd length for me so I lopped some length off to match one of my other favourite midi-length dresses!

I love the vintage feel of the finished dress and can definitely see it getting some wear this summer. I need a sleeveless version now too!

In issue 64, Mel of stitch_make_bake sews Butterick 4386

Say hello to Rebecca on Instagram redwsews www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21

Your

GIFT

Sharpen your PENCIL Meet our latest Threadcount pattern, the 5-in-1 super skirt pack! It has all the options you need to tailor your fit and create a dream garment. Choose cotton, denim, canvas, brocade and much more - the possibilities are endless

VIEW E We love the vertical stripes in this canvas that elongate the body and give you legs for days!

We used: Woven Trails Lake canvas by Art Gallery Fabrics. Find a stockist near you at www.hantexonline. co.uk/mystockist

22 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

MASTERCLASS

A PERFECT FIT Create the perfect pencil skirt with your free Threadcount skirt

Here are our top tips for picking the right size, altering for your body and getting a great fit with your skirt: First things ďŹ rst, get an accurate waist measurement by tying a piece of elastic around your middle and then wiggle it into place at your narrowest point. This is the most comfortable part of your midriff allowing the best range of movement.

Amy says...

Remember the ďŹ nished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue!

This helps you pick the correct size VIEW D The yellow trend shows no sign of disappearing so we love this mustard denim that has a tiny bit of stretch to it!

We used:

12oz mustard denim, ÂŁ12.50 per metre www.guthrie-ghani. co.uk

Divide your body into sections.

Consider choosing a different size across the back than the front if you have a fuller derrière! Choose a design with princess seams for even more control over where you need to add or subtract width for the perfect ďŹ t.

Don’t be afraid to grade across sizes.

We recommend picking a size based on your hip measurement and then adjusting for your waist and thighs after this. Remember to double check your side seams end up the same length if making adjustments to the front and back pieces before you cut out.

Larger rears can also cause the garment to ride up and create an uneven hem. You need more height at the centre back to accommodate your curves.

Across the centre of the buttocks, draw a line at a right angle to the grain. Slash open the line leaving the side seam allowance uncut to act as a hinge then add extra wiggle room. The centre back seam will only be slightly curved so you’ll still be able to add a zipper here.

Play around with the size of the darts as ones that taper sharply aren’t always attering on larger waists. Consider omitting them entirely and redistributing the width at the side seam instead.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

Get a copy of this pattern in sizes 8-14

FOR JUST ÂŁ1.99 + P&P To claim this fantastic ofer simply visit www.love sewingmag.co.uk/TC1901 and buy while stocks last

Eye spy!

See our online g tutorial for creatin the perfect lapped skirt zipper

VIEW D Sleek pencil skirts are great for bold big prints as they won't get cut up too badly.

Why not practise your printmatching across a zipper using our online tutorial?

We used:

Orange and Yellow Birdcage Ankara, ÂŁ10 per metre www.urbanstax.com

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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15 MINUTES WITH...

Patrick GRANT From Sewing Bee to eco fashion, we find out what to expect from the much-anticipated BBC show with judge and sustainability champion Patrick Grant

Was it nice to be back in the Sewing Bee workroom after such a long break?

It was brilliant, it’s been a couple of years since we’ve been in there and it felt like coming home.

It must have felt different with Joe Lycett there instead of Claudia Winkleman, did he bring a different energy?

Patrick

He’s a very different personality, he’s equally as lovely, and funny. I think it brought a very fresh dynamic and a new energy as you’ll see when you watch the show. I didn’t think anyone could be dafter than Claudia, it’s possible!

Do you feel like this season of the show is offering something different to the previous years?

We’ve continued to increase the difficulty of the challenges, I think we’ve consistently done that over the seasons and as sewists become far more accomplished in the broad skillset they have, it’s become commonplace. Everyone knows if they come on the show they’ve got to be able to sew wovens, jersey, stretch fabric and technical fabric, we’ve had to continue to find ways to challenge them and we certainly have. We always start with cotton in the first week and we set them a really difficult task in the first challenge which they all handled brilliantly – we were thinking ‘how are we going to split them apart?’

28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

We set very difficult challenges and we continued to add new things into the mix of challenges. Both fellow judge Esme Young and I are very concerned about the state of what is now known as the fashion industry. The clothing industry is running away with itself in a frenzy of consumption. We’ve always

We did a week when all three of the challenges used repurposed textiles

done a challenge about re-using and repurposing old clothing or old textiles, our transformation challenge has always been about bringing new life to an old garment and we did a week when all three of the challenges used repurposed textiles. We believe people have to start to look at the value of their clothes in a different way. These products are not disposable or should not be disposable and so we did a lot on that in one episode that I’m really pleased about; I think it’s a really important thing for Sewing Bee to stand up for.

© BBC/Love Productions, Mark Bourdillon

Joe will take over from Claudia as Sewing Bee’s host

The vintage challenges always seem to create wonderful pieces from the contestants, is this year going to be as inspiring?

That’s firmly established as the core week on Sewing Bee and we love it. For me it’s really interesting to see how little clothing has changed in the last century and how much those clothes can still be worn in a contemporary way, reinforcing the message that these things have long lives.

So much of the clothing that’s made today will not exist in a useable form in 10, 20…

40 years, certainly not in 100 years.

idea. There was no sense of anyone not being on board with this being a really important issue and I was very pleased that it went through. I think we constructed three really good challenges which I think viewers will enjoy, I know that our competitors really enjoyed them.

We’ve heard that you’ve had input into a couple of the challenges so will we see some male clothing appearing?

We’ve got plenty of male competitors and we’ve got plenty of male clothing.

The saying goes in television 'never work with dogs or children'. How did you find the dog coat challenge?

It was a great challenge. Textile-based products have become so cheap that people no longer bother, people buy a tent, take it to a festival and can’t be bothered to pack it up and take it home, thousands of these things are discarded every year and so we decided to do a challenge where they had to turn that tent into something new. It’s making the point that we’ve got to stop throwing this stuff away, this stuff is valuable.

As a champion for sustainability in clothing production, how important was it to introduce this message to the show?

I put the suggestion forward to our producers and the producers loved the

Do you think all the contestants rose to the challenge?

I think the general standard was exceptional.

Everyone was at a really accomplished level and there were some who were absolutely excellent. They were a great bunch and really

The final, honestly was just the most joyous thing, I can’t wait for people to see it

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29

© Charlotte Medlicott

creative too, they made some absolutely beautiful things.

I think it was the most fun to film and we had a really lovely time with them. The final, honestly was just the most joyous thing, it was great, I can’t wait for people to see it.

Do you and Esme get chance to see each other much outside of the show?

Is there a judges' WhatsApp group?

Esme, Joe and I have a WhatsApp group.

Esme and I went to see Joe doing stand-up in Birmingham last week, we all went out and we see each other quite a lot. Esme’s world and my world are quite closely linked, I do quite a lot of lecturing at fashion colleges, I work with some of her colleagues and Joe’s about quite a lot so we see him quite often too. It’s fun, we’re a good gang. The sewists have a WhatsApp group too but Esme and I were not invited to join that one.

For readers who don’t know, can you explain how far the Community Clothing enterprise has come since you launched it?

It’s come a long way, we’ve created in excess of about 14,000 hours of skilled work in the UK. Given that we’ve spent about 50p on marketing in the last two years it’s amazing how well it’s done. I’m delighted but I’m not surprised because what we’re offering is really beautiful-quality clothing

Community Clothing currently partners with 19 factories across the UK

Patrick and Esme are advocates of sustainable fashion

that for most people would be unaffordable and because of the model we use, exceptional quality, beautifully designed stuff made in really amazing factories in the UK is sold at a price that's actually fairly competitive with quite low quality stuff that's made on the other side of the world. I’m so pleased that people love the idea of it. It’s about making clothes that people can actually feel proud to wear and it’s making clothes that the people who make them feel really proud to make.

Contestants must demonstrate their ability to work with a variety of fabric

FIND OUT MORE Don't miss series five of The Great British Sewing Bee airing on BBC2.

Keep up to date with all the latest news by following @sewingbee on Twitter or visiting our blog on www.lovesewingmag.co.uk Find out more about Community Clothing by visiting www.communityclothing.co.uk

CUT OUT & KEEP

Your

GIFT

Have &

HOLD These soft, expandable bags provide a sweetly cushioned ride for your valuables! Simply cut out the instructions and keep them with your enclosed templates

A

C

D

E

F

Top tip!

Add a few simple patch pockets to your lining by following the tutorial on page 42

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

• 80cm two co-ordinating fabrics (cotton, cotton types) • 1.2m cotton lining • 2.7m sew-in interfacing • 1.2m sew-in fleece interfacing • 1 magnetic clasp • 38x18cm of cardboard • templates provided

Pin fleece interfacing to the WS of Fabric 1 front and back pieces, and Fabric 2 side pieces with raw edges even.

Baste close to the outer edges to keep in place.

Pin sew-in interfacing to the WS of fabric bottom piece, handles, front and backing lining pieces and side lining pieces with raw edges even.

Baste close to the outer edges to keep in place.

Pin sides to the front and back pieces, RST at the corner seams; match the dots. Stitch each seam to the dot. Press seam allowances open. (See Pic A.) Pin the bottom piece to the bag, RST at the bottom seams, matching the corner dots and stitching, pivoting at the corner dots. Turn RS out and press. (See Pic B.) Fold under 13mm of seam allowance on the long edges of the handle pieces and press.

CUTTING: From main fabric cut, • 2 template 1 (front & back) • 2 template 3 (bottom) From contrast fabric cut, • 2 template 2 (sides) • 1 template 5 (handle) From the lining cut, • 2 Template 1 & 2 (front & sides) • 1 Template 3 (bottom) From sew in interfacing cut, • 2 each of pieces 1, 2, 3 & 5 From fleece interfacing cut, • 2 each of pieces 1 & 2

NOTES: Use a 1.5cm seam allowance Finished size 37x43x15cm

32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

B

Fold handle pieces on the fold line, WST and press. Top-stitch close to the long edges.

Pin the handle ends between the corner seams and stitching lines on the top edge of RS. Baste in place.

(See Pic C.)

ABOUT

This easy Ellie Mae design by Kwik Sew is just one of the many craft patterns available in the range. See more at www.sewdirect.com

Apply a magnetic clasp to the front and back lining pieces at the dots following manufacturers instructions.

Stitch the front and back lining pieces to the side lining pieces and then attach the bottom lining piece as steps 3-4 above, but leaving an opening in the bottom seam between the corner dots on one side.

Place the main bag inside lining bag so the RS are facing together and matching the corner seams. Stitch around the top edges and trim the seam allowances. (See Pic D.) Turn bag RS out through the opening in the lining.

Place the lining inside the bag, WST and press. Topstitch around the top edge of the bag 6mm from the edge, keeping the handles free.

On the outside, fold the bag on the corner seams, with the lining sides together and matching stitching lines. Stitch along the stitching lines. (See pics E and F.) Cut a piece of cardboard using the guide as a pattern.

Pull the lining out of bag and insert the cardboard through the lining opening into the bag bottom. Stitch the opening closed and reinsert the lining into the bag. Press to finish.

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www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

We love

STYLE

Start at the

TOP This sweet smock style is great for all shapes and sizes and doesn't use much fabric!

Project CLAIRE TYLER www.claire-tyler.com

Shopping list Fizz Pop B is part of the gorgeous new Liberty 2019 collections available at www.alicecaroline.co.uk

34 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A

B

C

D

LAYPLAN: 115cm-wide fabric

150cm-wide fabric

FRONT

FRONT

SLEEVE

SLEEVE

BACK

BACK

SLEEVE

Top tip!

SIZING: 8-10

12-14

16-18

TO FIT BUST

31-33"

34-36"

38-40"

TO FIT WAIST

24-25"

26-28"

30-32"

NECKLINE ELASTIC LENGTH

75cm

77cm

79cm

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

• 1.4m 115cm-wide or 1.15m 150cm-wide lightweight woven fabric like cotton lawn or viscose • 80cm 6mm elastic for arms • 80cm 6mm elastic for neckline • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1 Pin and stitch the front to the back at the sides, stopping stitching at the dot.

Press the seams open.

2 Stitch the sleeve underarm seams. (See Pic A.) 3 With RST, pin the sleeve into the armhole, matching notches and seams. Stitch.

Trim the seam and press towards the sleeve. (See Pic B.) 4 To make the neck casing for the elastic, turn 1.5cm to

NOTES: Use a 1.5cm seam allowance throughout Mark your back bodice with a small piece of masking tape to avoid getting the pieces mixed up

Cotton Tana lawn is perfect for this top as it's stable enough to install the casing but lovely and floaty to wear

the inside on the top edge.

Turn under 6mm on the raw edge. Press. Stitch and leave an opening to insert the elastic. (See Pic C.) 5 Cut a piece of elastic using the guide. Attach the elastic to a safety pin and insert through the casing.

6 Lap the ends and stitch together. Stitch the opening closed.

7 Make the casing at the bottom of the sleeves in the same way.

8 Cut two pieces of elastic the measurement of your upper arm plus 1.5cm.

9 Insert the elastic in the same way as for the neckline and finish in the same way.

Finish the lower edge with a 1.5cm narrow hem.

Turn up 1.5cm, press, open out and turn in the raw edge to meet the crease.

Turn up, pin and stitch. (See Pic D.) Finish the side openings in the same way.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35

FABRIC

1

2

Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak pattern, ÂŁ17.99 www.minervacrafts.com

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4

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36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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www.trendpatterns.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 37

ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER Claire-Louise looks at fashion’s enduring love affair with the jumpsuit and explains why it’s actually a wardrobe staple The original jumpsuit inspiration for my book option was a tropical print strappy version. I was keen to create a frill on the camisole top hack, that was added to the final jumpsuit sample by mistake. This was a happy accident and I kept the frill on both cami and jumpsuit options as it was an interesting feature that looked feminine and offered lots of options for further hacks.

ack in 2014 when I wrote the The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion with Fabric (the book that accompanied the third series), I pitched the concept of pattern hacking with a jumpsuit, which I dubbed the threein-onesie pattern that could be used in multiple ways.

B

The jumpsuit had been on-trend then for a couple of years and I thought it was a trend that would last just another couple of years. Cut to 2019 and the jumpsuit is a key piece of most of our wardrobes, transcending trends and suiting all age groups. Whether you’re looking for a pinafore style, wide leg, or an elegant evening ensemble, there’s a jumpsuit for you. It’s akin to dresses as you need only to make a single choice to create an outfit.

Sadly, we couldn’t find this kind of print in a dressmaking fabric at the time, as it would have been printed exclusively for a ready-to-wear brand.

My assistant Chloe and I searched high and low, but it seems it took a while longer for the tropical fabric trend to hit the sewing community (there are gorgeous options available now). My ‘wild card’ Cotton+Steel graphic print option was finally approved at the 11th hour!

Find this pretty print at www.materialgirllaura.co.uk

For her book Claire-Louise designed a jumpsuit that could also be sewn as a camisole

38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

jumpsuit SPECIAL When working on the fourth series of the Bee in 2016, I was hoping to add a jumpsuit as a made-to-measure challenge before the trend tailed off, but sadly that wasn’t to be. As the sewing producer, I thought a jumpsuit made an excellent fit challenge as there are curves around the body, as well as the fit to consider up and down the body! Seeing how the contestants might cope with fitting a jumpsuit to a live model would have really showcased their fitting skills (or indeed their lack of skills).

The jumpsuit has proved to be a favourite piece we aren’t letting go of. In fact it features on-trend predictions way past 2020. There are so many patterns for home dressmakers to create the perfect jumpsuit, whatever size or age you might be! I’ve rounded up a few different styles to inspire you: Fancy a traditional utility style jumpsuit with a bit of a twist? Take inspiration from Stella McCartney’s latest black denim version, recreated with McCalls 7330 in chunky denim. Choose fabric with a lot of drape like cupro, tencel denim or chambray for a softer look. I love Fiona’s denim with flawless top-stitching but think it would also look great in black Tencel from www.fabricmagpie.co.uk.

See Fiona's topstitching up close at www.chainstitcher.blogspot.com

Maybe you’re looking for an elegant jumpsuit for occasion wear or nights out? Try the Named Patterns Anni Building Block jumpsuit shown below. It features a cute cutout detail with princess seams and lots of options for multiple variations. I’d pair this with luxury fabric like crêpe, sandwashed silk or viscose. Atelier Brunette makes highquality fabric with great prints so take a look at the Moonstone viscose in blue over at www.sewmesunshine.co.uk.

Katie's blog features modern makes www.whatkatiesews.netco.uk Fancy the classic bib-style dungaree/ jumpsuit? Well you’re in luck as there are lots of pattern options. One of my favourites is the Roberts collection by Marilla walker, which includes a dungaree dress too.

Need a super-comfy (secret pyjamas) jumpsuit that will see you through the day and into the night too? Check out the Sallie by Closet Case Patterns. This jersey pattern works really well as a cute romper style for hotter weather, but has two elegant longer length options; either cropped or ankle length.

Plus the elasticated waist is comfortable and easy to fit. Why not go bold with 2019’s Pantone colour of the year and choose a Coral Solid Cotton Spandex knit mix from www.girlcharlee.co.uk?

Don’t you just love Katie's chic black version above? Bib styles work well in classic denim as well as in some fabulous prints; the Ice Cream Pink Check washed linen from www.empressmills.co.uk would look gorgeous.

No matter how much ease you want from the fit of your jumpsuit, there's a style for you out there

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39

Why not use Kwik Sew 4180 to recreate this frilly jumpsuit from Dorothy Perkins?

Zara

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

One of my current favourite jumpsuit looks has to be the wrap-front style, which is elegant and like all jumpsuits can be worn as workwear and beachwear, as well as at more formal occasions. The great thing about a waist seam is being able to colour block, and I love this sophisticated black and white version that looks like a top and trousers, but won’t untuck! And this gorgeous floral number is great for more frill action! Try Kwik sew 4180 or McCall’s 7099 for the same effect. Fabric with a drape would be the best option for this project, think crêpe, viscose challis or some stretch fabric.

There are as many jumpsuit patterns as there are ready-to-wear styles, so if these options aren’t for you, then do look about as there’s definitely your jumpsuit out there.

Don’t discount vintage patterns either, with a bit of a tweak a 90s pinafore style I bought in an Australian op shop will make an on-trend pinstripe version for me.

Happy hunting!

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Rutland Sewing Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QN Tel 01572 756468 www.rutlandsewing.co.uk

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www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41

We love

BAGS

BUCKLE up

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 40cm-square print fabric • 40cm-square co-ordinating fabric for lining • fat quarter matching solid • 40cm-square Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding • 40cm-square Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing • fat quarter Vlieseline Decovil I light fusible interfacing • fat eighth Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing • gold 12cm metal zip • tan fat eighth leather or faux leather • 2.5cm brass buckle • tan Gütermann denim thread • Union Jack Berisfords ribbon • fabric glue • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Smarten up your lunch with this one-of-a-kind bag!

It's super smart and would look great in oilcloth Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

A

B

C

D

E

F

CUTTING: From leather, cut: • 2.5x30cm strip for buckle strap • 2 4x25cm strips for handle From print fabric, cut: • 29x25cm piece for front panel • 29x25cm piece for back panel • 29x25cm pieces for side gussets • 29x9cm piece for base From lining fabric, cut: • 18x30cm piece for zipper box pocket lining • 2 29x25cm pieces • 2 21x15cm pieces for slip pocket From S320 interfacing, cut: • 19x13cm piece for slip pocket

NOTES: Seam allowances are all 1/4” unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Cut 9cm of one end of the 2.5x30cm leather strip.

Sew around both with denim thread. Because these will be sewn to the bag top, stop 2.5cm from each end.

2 Punch a hole in the smaller piece, 4cm in from one end and place on the buckle with

42 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

the buckle prong through the hole. This is shorter on the back to reduce bulk. Punch six holes in the other leather piece.

3 Use fabric glue to attach the suede sides of the handle strips together. Stitch around the outside edge, laminating them together.

4 Make 150cm of bias binding with the orange solid fabric.

5 Use the template to cut a lap from patterned fabric. Fuse H630 to the back and Decovil I Light on top of that. Make another lap from the lining and interface the back with H630. Place these WST and baste the edges. Bind the front with orange bias tape.

Only do the sides and front this panel onto a slightly larger – the lat back edge will be piece of Style-Vil and attach hidden in the seam. with a narrow basting seam.

6 Measure down from the Trim the Style-Vil back to the back straight edge stitching line.

15cm on the 8 Find the vertical centre vertical centre and attach line and the buckle half attach the of the closure Binding clips can be easier strap. On 5cm up from than pins to work with on the back the bottom by of the lap topstitching in bulky projects like bags measure denim thread. and come in a range in 3.5cm on (See Pic B.) of fun colours! each side and 9 Interface the back 6cm in from the print fabric panel to the straight back edge and WS with H630.

The 18x30cm lining piece attach the handle. (See Pic A.) 7 Interface the WS of the front is for the zip box pocket lining.

Find the vertical centre of the panel fabric with H630. Lay

Top tip

Why not

TRY?

Make a pocket for your lining, to hold your cutlery or essentials!

panel and pocket lining. On the back panel, measure 5cm from the top edge and mark.

Place a short end of the zip pocket lining RST onto the marks and pin. Measure down 3.5cm on the lining and mark a box 1cm deep x 12cm long.

This is the sewing line.

Make a line horizontally down the centre of the box with two angles at each end.

This is the cutting line. (See pics C and D.) Sew around the sewing line and cut along the cutting line.

Post the lining through the hole and smooth down on the back. Top-stitch the zipper into the box and finish the pocket by bringing the other short end of the lining up to meet the first and sewing the sides and bottom.

Lay the back panel onto a piece of Style-Vil and proceed as for the front.

Fuse H630 to the back the 9x25cm side gusset pieces.

Attach to Style-Vil, trim and repeat for the 29x9cm base.

Install a slip pocket

following the tutorial (right).

Sew the lining together, back, front, sides and base gusset. Repeat for outer pieces.

Sew the flap to the back of the outer. Measure down 2cm from the top and sew the flap. Turn the flap the right way, top-stitch the end to hide the raw edge and secure the flap. (See pics E and F.) Drop the lining into the bag with RST and bind the top edge to finish!

1 Fuse the slip pocket interfacing centrally to the WS of one of the lining pieces. This will be the pocket front.

2 Sew around the edge of the interfacing, leaving a turning gap in the base.

Trim the seam allowance back to 0.5cm and clip across the corners.

3 Turn through the gap and press. Top-stitch onto one lining piece (this will be at the back). Site the pocket 5cm down in the centre of the panel.

4 Divide the pockets into sections with a vertical seam. To sew each piece together, start the seam from the top edge, stopping 0.5cm from the bottom to allow you to put on the base and keep the edges sharp.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 43

SHOP OF THE

REALLY MARIA If you’re looking for bold and colourful prints, inspiring workshops and a fabulous range of haberdashery, Really Maria is definitely worth a visit. We find out more from owner Maria Sammur

Hi Maria! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today?

Hi! We are good thank you. It’s the busiest time of the year and we’ve been packing up online orders, making up more kits, ordering stock and preparing for sewing classes.

Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop Really Maria is a family-run business and my mother has owned the property since the 60s, when she used to run the shop selling children's nursery items with my late father. She retired and then leased the property out until May 2016 when we began Really Maria. We wanted to keep the shop in the family, so now my mother is my landlady and loves coming in to help out, see how we are and boss me about. My husband is our financial advisor, my son helps out and I have a wonderful group of staff – some of whom have been with us from the beginning! We are based in East Dulwich, a district in the bustling South East London.

I learnt to quilt when living in Saudi Arabia. I joined the Bedouin Piecemakers Quilting Group whilst learning from

American ex-pats and other wonderful ladies from all over the world. I then became the Vice Chair and eventually taught and even formed my own group called the Qrazy Quilters. The group still meet regularly to this day. I also travelled the world and competed in and won competitions for my quilts including visitor’s choice at Aramco in Saudi Arabia Dammam. The opportunity then came to open the shop in London, it made sense, I'd had so much encouragement from friends and family and we finally opened on the 27th August 2016.

Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist?

It has to be the BERNINA 550 Quilter's Edition, I have one and I absolutely love it. It’s a good machine for both a beginner and an experienced sewist and the one that most of the American ex-pats in Saudi Arabia owned… so of course I had to have one! The best feature by far is the BERNINA Stitch Regulator (BSR), it produces neat, consistent stitching with stitches of precisely the same length while free-motion sewing. Reacting to the movement of the fabric, it adjusts the speed of the machine automatically when free-motion quilting with the feed dog lowered.

What sets you apart from other shops?

I wanted the shop to be an inviting, friendly place where we provide an exceptional service, stand out, be modern and different from the more traditional haberdasheries. We listen to our customers and allow ourselves to be inspired by their shared passion of craft.

We hope to grow with our customers and share our love for bold, vibrant and imaginative crafting, because if it

44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Maria

hasn’t got the wow factor, it isn’t Really Maria. We choose quality, affordable products according to seasons; share a wealth of travel with our community. I also like to make sure that my customers have everything they need to be able to continue their craft, ensuring we have the right kinds of tools and materials in stock to do so.

Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about?

So many new sewing and beading kits will be coming out this year! More pouffés and dolls, a new range of bags and quilts kits including an appliqué Frida Kahlo Wall hanging. I’m very excited to be working in partnership with the Dog Kennel Hill Adventure Playground Project, helping to make an enormous patchwork quilt with children and families called Binding the Community Together to celebrate the community and sponsored

by Southwark Council. We’ve also got lots of new classes starting.

Visit us!

Really Maria 15 Lordship Lane London, SE22 8EW 020 3581 0909 www.reallymaria.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45

workshops FRANK NUTT SEWING MACHINES Birmingham With over 100 sewing machines and overlockers on display, a friendly and knowledgeable team and its own car park, Frank Nutt Sewing Machines is a great place to find your next machine.

0121 444 3978 www.franknutt.co.uk All workshops are with Claire Muir Book at www.clairemuir.co.uk

16TH FEBRUARY Thread and texture – beginners' free-machine embroidery Come and learn how to free-machine embroider. You will be shown tips and techniques, and quickly find how easy and fun it is. This course is suitable for complete beginners.

Cost: £65 (includes use of sewing machine and all materials)

9TH MARCH Embroidered lace bowl Come and make a beautiful lace bowl by free-machine embroidering on soluble fabric. A battery-operated tealight will enable it to twinkle on your table. This course is suitable for complete beginners.

Cost: £35 (includes use of sewing machine and all materials)

Book yourself into one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

6TH APRIL Flower fascinator Make a fascinator by creating a flower from sinamay (banana straw) and freemachine embroidery. Crystals and beads make an encrusted flower centre and goose biots complete the design. This course is suitable for complete beginners.

Cost: £65 (includes use of sewing machine and all materials)

30TH MARCH Fabulous flowers Make a beautiful flower by freemachine embroidering on soluble fabric. Beads, crystals and feathers finish off your creation, which can worn as a corsage or in the hair. Not suitable for complete beginners.

Cost: £65 (includes use of sewing machine and all materials)

10TH FEBRUARY Sewn Valentine’s card and loveletter making Come alone or together to this freehand machine embroidery workshop! Enjoy designing your own Valentine's card, and creating a love letter in a creative, supportive, environment on your sewing machine!

Cost: £59 (includes use of all equipment and materials)

6TH APRIL Expressive eye project Create your own stunning expressive eye! Learn to transfer drawings onto fabric, add freehand machine embroidery, flourishes of appliqué, paint and glitter! A fun, unique and creatively fulfilling day in a beautiful, encouraging environment.

Cost: £59 (includes use of all equipment and materials)

11-12TH MAY

ART SEA CRAFT SEA

9TH MARCH

Margate

Moulin Rouge!

Join artist-led creative workshops with sea views, emphasising creativity and self-expression using free-hand machine embroidery/appliqué. You will be individually supported in a fun and nurturing environment. Take your work to a new level! stacey@artseacraftsea.com www.artseacraftsea.com

Think ruffles, velvet, gold, feathers and fishnets! Ideas and guidelines are given to springboard your exuberant, creative self to make your own interpretation of the Moulin Rouge. Learn freehand, appliqué techniques and more!

Cost: £65 (includes use of all equipment and materials

46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Fabulous floral accents Craft a beautifully decorated, unique pen/tissue box with flowers created from freehand/hand embroidery, embellishment, découpage and drawing.

Plus, techniques showing how to use your own fabric collection as inspiration!

Cost: £110 (includes use of all equipment and materials)

01142 455 996 handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk www.handmadehappyhare.com

2ND FEBRUARY Half-square triangle cushion Learn basic patchwork techniques by making a half-square-triangle envelope cushion.

Cost: £25

23RD FEBRUARY Craft Saturday Bring along your craft projects to undertake in a sociable environment.

Buffet lunch is included – please advise of any special dietary needs prior to the day.

Cost: £12.50

2ND MARCH Introduction to sewing machines

9TH FEBRUARY

HAPPY HARE Sheffield Happy Hare is an independent sewing shop, based in Chapeltown, Sheffield. It stocks a wide range of fabric, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink.

For all workshops, materials will be provided. For sewing workshops, you must be able to use a sewing machine at a reasonable level of skill – you should have either completed the Introduction to Sewing Machines session or have used a sewing machine before to undertake simple tasks like joining pieces of fabric.

Merchant and Mills top 64 Make a simple top with raglan sleeves using a Merchant and Mills pattern. Fabric and a commercial pattern are included.

Cost: £45

9TH & 10TH MARCH 16TH FEBRUARY Valentine’s heart quilt Stitch a cot/lap quilt with a lovely heart design. Suitable for beginners, but there is a lot of sewing to fit into a day.

Cost: £50

make this deceptively quick and easy garment! Your friends will be astonished to learn that this incredible one-of-a-kind cardigan was sewn by your own fair hands and not purchased from an exclusive Italian boutique.

Cost: £47.50

9TH FEBRUARY Sew your own Doris dress or sweater at Bamber Sewing Machines

MINISTRY OF CRAFT Manchester With locations in Manchester’s Northern Quarter, Didsbury and Chorlton, the Ministry tutors teach a huge variety of fun, friendly and sociable workshops for all tastes and abilities. info@ministryofcraft.co.uk www.ministryofcraft.co.uk

Learn how to wind a bobbin, thread up a machine, sew in straight lines and round corners and have a play with the decorative stitches!

Cost: £25

Sew your own Doris dress or sweater at Bamber Sewing Machines. Want a dress with a bit of stretch and lots of oomph? Lusting after a sweater that’s comfortable but still oh-so-chic? Then book now to sew your own Doris, either a short 1960s-style shift dress or a perfect weekend sweater.

Cost: £67.50

Oliver and S Cartwheel dress In this two-day class, you will start by tracing and cutting out your pattern, cutting out the pieces and then assemble this lovely wrap dress. Fits three months to 12 years old with either a front or back fastening.

Cost: £55

zips by sharing simple tricks and tips that will give you the confidence to tackle zips head on!

Cost: £29.50

16TH MARCH Overlocking for beginners at Bamber Sewing Machines If you are already friendly with your sewing machine and looking for a new technical challenge, don’t limit your sewing skills! Take things one step further and surprise yourself by unravelling the secrets behind sewing with an overlocker!

Cost: £37.50

16TH FEBRUARY 9TH FEBRUARY Sew your own waterfall cardigan at Bamber Sewing Machines Don’t go chasing waterfalls, come and

Master zips and buttonholes at Bamber Sewing Machines Are you a zip-aphobic? We’ll show you how to take the challenge out of sewing

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 47

All things fabric...where happiness is handmade Linens, Jerseys, Cottons, Canvas, Viscose & more

For dressmaking, crafts and interiors www.bobbobbobbin.co.uk E: info@ bobbobbobbin.co.uk T: 01803 313992 (for telephone orders)

48 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

We love

STYLE

STITCH happy!

The Himari dress is an easy-wear, easy-make garment with fronttie belt and Sashiko stitching detail. Although we used printed fabric, why not try embroidering the yokes yourself?

Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

Shopping list

Stitched Ochi chambray blue denim fabric, ÂŁ23.99 per metre; and Solid Smooth chambray in Indigo Shadow denim fabric, ÂŁ25.99 per metre. Both by Art Gallery Fabrics from www.minervacrafts.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 49

A

B

C

LAYPLAN: 45" FABRIC A

45" FABRIC B Fold

Fold

Selvedge

1 2

4 6

Fold

3

Selvedges

7

Selvedges 5

7

Selvedge

SIZING: BUST

14

16

18

20

38"

40"

42"

44"

25"

27"

29"

31"

33"

35"

37"

35"

37"

39"

41"

43"

45"

47"

APPROX LENGTH

33"

331/2"

341/2"

351/2"

36"

37"

371/2"

FINISHED HIP

471/2"

491/2"

511/2"

531/2"

551/2"

571/2"

591/2"

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Finish the raw edges of the Centre Back, then join the Lower Back pieces RST. Press seam allowances open.

2 Finish the raw edges then pin the Lower Back to Upper Back with RST at long straight edge and sew. Press seam open. Top-stitch on either side of the seam, a few millimetres away. (See Pic A.) 3 Repeat for Upper Front and Lower Front pieces. (See Pic B.) 4 Stay-stitch around the

50 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

12 36"

HIPS

• 80cm contrast Fabric A • 2.1m of 45”-wide or 1.8m of 60”-wide Fabric B • 20x75cm lightweight fusible interfacing • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Finish the raw edges with a machine zigzag stitch or overlocker 1cm seam allowance is included

10 34"

WAIST

MATERIALS & TOOLS

NOTES

8 32"

neckline edge of front and back to prevent the opening from stretching out. (See Pic C.) 5 Join the front to back at the shoulders. Finish the raw edge. Press towards the back, then top-stitch.

6 With the front and back neck facings interfaced, 7 Sew RST at short sides to make a ‘ring’.

8 Press seam allowances open. Finish the outer raw edge only of the facing piece.

9 Pin the facing to the neckline aligning raw edges and side seams RST. Hand tack-stitch. (See Pic D.) Sew all around the neckline. Grade the seam allowance to diferent amounts to reduce the bulk.

Press facing to WS, align fold to seamline. Top-stitch all around 1cm from the neck edge. Hand-stitch at t shoulder seam allowances to secure the neck facing on the reverse side.

Fold the tie piece over lengthways so the long sides

are RST. Press and pin. Sew along two long sides and one short side.

Trim the seam allowance to 5mm and cut across the seam-allowance corners.

Turn inside out to RS. Press, pushing out corners with a poking tool. Top-stitch 5mm from edge around three stitched sides, leaving raw edge open. Press.

Repeat for other tie.

Pin a tie piece at each side of Front RS in position as shown on the template, aligning raw edges. Machine tack-stitch. (See Pic E.)

Top tip

Sew the front to the back at side edges, Why not use a checked RST. Finish fabric for your dress and the raw edges cut the yokes on the and press. (See bias to add a fun Pic F.) print clash?

Clip into the curved section seam allowance at the underarm to ease the seam.

Fold over a double-fold hem at the lower edge of the front and back as required.

Sew and press. Repeat for sleeve hems.

Pop on your dress and tie your waist sash in a lovely knot.

D

E

F

Amy says...

If you aren't in a rush to finish your dress, you could embroider the yoke and ties with a pretty design

E!

NLIN O G N I L L W SE

NO

www.escapeandcreate.co.uk

Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Molly Felicity Designs Fabrics and Products are now available from Old Bolsover Yard, 2 Castle Street, S44 6PP

www.mollyfelicitydesigns.com 52 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items.

Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com

www.rooftopfabrics.com

ASK THE EXPERTS

Pussy bow blouse Sew-along Sew yourself a stylish new blouse and learn a host of new techniques in the process! Alison Smith MBE shows you how

T

here’s nothing nicer in January than thinking about all the wonderful sewing projects ahead of you this year. It’s also a good time to refresh your wardrobe and what could be better than a simple blouse.

For my first sew-along in 2019 I am making View 2 of the Pussy Bow Blouse by Sew Over It. It is a classic design that gives sewists the chance to practice working with unstable floaty fabric, French seam construction and using tailor’s tacks.

In this issue Alison shows us how to make a flawless floaty blouse www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 53

MASTERCLASS FABRIC CHOICES

FRENCH SEAMS

first seam allowance

The fabric I have chosen is a polyester georgette, but you could try a chiffon or a cotton lawn for the techniques I am sharing as well. Georgette is often mistaken as chiffon but it is slightly heavier and can often have a rougher texture due to the number of yarn used during the weaving process.

As the blouse has no darts to aid the fit, I made up a toile first in a lightweight calico to judge the ease at the bust. If you need a Full or Small Bust Adjustment you will need to refer to the Love Sewing guide over on page 64.

CUTTING OUT

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

As georgette is very fine, cutting it out is not always easy. To achieve clean cutting lines, try using a rotary cutter and cutting mat for accuracy. Make sure your pins are fine, with no rough edges and place the pins in just the seam allowances or use pattern weights.

Mark any dots on the pattern with tailor tacks. Simply put a long strand of contrast thread onto your needle several inches long. It should be double thickness but do not knot the strand.

The pattern instructions are very clear but below you’ll find my top tips for various aspects of construction as well as alternative methods for putting your blouse together, so have a read through both the article and the instruction booklet before considering how you’d like to proceed.

From below, insert the needle through the tissue pattern and both thicknesses of fabric through your pattern marking.

Leave a thread tail of around 1” at the back. Push your needle back through the layers almost on top of your first stitch but do not pull all the way through.

Create a French seam up to a certain point by snipping into the seam allowance

Leave a loop of thread around 1” tall on the top of the pattern piece and another 1” at the back. Clip your needle thread and then clip the loop you made, before continuing to add any additional tailor’s tacks. Remove the tissue gently to reveal the fabric below.

To finish, the tailor’s tacks very carefully begin to separate the two layers of fabric starting with the first set of tacks. As the layers separate, it will expose the tailor’s tacks threads. Cut them in half so that a short tailor’s tack remains on both layers of the material.

FRENCH SEAMS I am constructing the blouse with French seams. To make a French seam, pin together WS to WS and make a seam 6mm wide, try using a quarter-inch foot if you find this difficult. Make the seam stopping at the tailors tack on the CF. Trim back any wispy threads and press the stitching. Then press the seam to one side, and fold the fabric RS so the seam is inside with the stitching on the fold line. Press again. Make another seam, enclosing the seam you have just made, stitching 8mm from the folded edge.

Construct the side seams and shoulder seams in the same way. Press all the seams toward the back,

THE SLEEVES

Remember you can French seam a sleeve too. Just remember to start WST

54 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Before making the French seam on the sleeve you need to make the sleeve opening.

There is a notch that signifies the length of the opening, which I have marked with a snip. I have also marked a point 1.5cm in from the snip to show the width of the seam.

Cut through to this mark. Fold back the seam allowance below this point, making a double fold. Stitch. Make a French seam above the opening and press toward the sleeve back.

Hand-sewing the cufs into place is very therapeutic

Pick up your copy of the Pussy Bow Blouse from www.sewoverit.co.uk.

Priced £9 for the PDF and £15 for the paper pattern and available in sizes 8-20.

SLEEVE HEM Make the loop for the sleeve. Fold the fabric RS. Make two rows of stitching, and trim back the seam allowance. To turn this tiny loop, use a rouleaux loop turner. The secret to using this tool is to make sure the latch on the end goes through the fabric in order to pull the fabric to the RS. Press.

Insert two rows of long stitches between the dots on the sleeve hem. Pull these up to form gentle gathers, so the sleeve band fits onto the end of the sleeve, pin and stitch.

Stitch across the ends of the band as per the instructions in the pattern. Fold in the raw edge and pin in place to hand-stitch later.

At the top of the sleeve opening, zigzag with a tiny stitch the seam allowance to the one side, to strengthen the opening.

INSERTING THE SLEEVE It is possible to insert a sleeve using a French seam. Insert two rows of long stitches through the sleeve head then place the sleeve to the armhole WS together.

Make sure all the pins are on the sleeve

For a narrow hem sew once at 5mm then press over and sew again on top of the irst stitch line

side. Machine-stitch in place with a 6m seam. Press as for the previous seams and stitch again on the WS. Don’t worry if the ease stitches show, you can carefully remove them later.

THE TIE NECK Join the CB seam on the tie, pin the tie to the neck edge and stitch in place, stopping at the CF. Trim the seam slightly and then stitch the ends of the tie RS together. Trim off the corners and turn the tie ends to the RS and press. Fold in the raw edge of the tie around the neck, pin in place and handstitch. Press.

HEMMING As the fabric is so fine, the hem can prove tricky. Try a hem for a difficult fabric. Turn up the hem by 5mm and machine-stitch in place, making sure the stitching is nearer to the fold than the raw edge. Trim slightly and fold again. Machine-stitch again on top of the first row of stitching. The result is a neat narrow hem. Press. Your blouse is now ready to wear.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF

ABOUT ALISON SMITH

THE PUSSY BOW The term pussy bow or pussy cat bow took hold in the 20th century as a reference to a bow tied at the neck, similar to those that used to be tied around a kitten’s neck.

In 1934, the St. Petersburg Times ofered a pattern for an Anne Adams dress featuring a convertible collar which could be worn in four diferent ways, including as ‘an intriguingly feminine pussy cat bow tied high under your chin.’

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns. You can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55

Open to the public Every Wed-Sat 10 to 4pm Podyke Bank Farm, Middle Drove, Wisbech Cambs PE14 8JT 07507 446333 • www.marshlandfabrics.co.uk info@marshlandfabrics.co.uk www.facebook.com/MarshlandFabrics/

MAGGIES CRAFT WORKSHOP Residential weekend courses set in the glorious scenery of North Yorkshire Courses throughout the year in patchwork, quilting, soft furnishing, dress making, fabric boxes and fabric landscapes. Delightful accommodation all on the premises. Good food, excellent tuition, warm and friendly atmosphere, small groups, tailor-made to fit your requirements.

Now available - lovely self contained cottage for 2 on site, bring your partner!

For full details of courses contact:

Maggie Martin

Tel: 01723 870660 Quarry Close Cottage, Quarry Road, Burniston, Scarborough, North Yorks YO13 0DJ

Website: www.maggiemartin.co.uk • Email: maggie@maggiemartin.co.uk Beginners very welcome

56 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

SKU:UPH070

SKU:COT067

Worth £200!

SKU:COT082

SKU:COT047

SKU:COT004

SKU:COT010

SKU:PP582

WIN a fabric bundle from Fabrics For Sale Boost your fabric collection by entering this competition to win a £200 bundle from Fabrics For Sale! One lucky reader will win this gorgeous assortment of cotton fabric that you can use to deck out your handmade wardrobe and create garments for every season!

Fabrics For Sale is an independent online fabric store bursting at the seams with an incredible selection of high-quality products to suit a variety of craft projects. The company prides itself on providing impeccable customer service and also offers a handy swatch sample service so you can make sure you’re purchasing the exact fabric you want every time. To browse the full range of products on offer, visit www.fabricsforsale.co.uk

SKU:PP580

SAVE

SKU:UPH051

20%

on fabric with the code LOVESEW63 until 28th February 2019 SKU:COT059

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 57

WIN A SIMPLE SEW AMELIA

TEA DRESS PATTERN The classic English tea dress never goes out of style and the Amelia Tea Dress from Simple Sew has buckets of timeless appeal. We have five of these patterns to give away which include easyto-follow instructions and plenty of scope to help build your skills.

The Amelia Tea Dress includes two garment options, both offering a classic 50s-inspired look that is perfect for any occasion. To browse the full range of Simple Sew patterns, visit www.simplesewpatterns.com

Pri zes worth

Exclusive discounts SAVE 20% on patterns at Jaycotts.

See page 84 for full details.

SAVE 10% on all fabric at Minerva Crafts.

See page 36 for full details.

£50

2 to win Win a Clover cutting mat A cutting mat is an essential tool for any sewist and we have two 45x32cm cutting mats from Clover to give away! This self-healing mat is the perfect size should you be sewing at home or taking it to classes and includes useful measurements to help you make accurate markings and cuttings. Clover products are available nationwide from all good craft, sewing and hobby shops. For stockist information, contact Clover mail, at clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

5 WIN A BUNDLE OF to win THREADERS FABRIKITS FROM CRAFTER’S COMPANION To celebrate the launch of the new Threaders Fabrikits, the team at Crafter’s Companion is offering five readers a bundle of two Fabrikits.

Each winner will receive a Boutique Purse and Wristlet Clutch kit. The kits are suitable for beginner to advanced sewists and include fabric, wadding and thread, as well as step-by-step instructions to help you create stylish accessories in no time! The kits offer the opportunity to build your skills as you’ll learn how to insert zips and create pretty pleats. For further information about Crafter’s Companion’s complete product range, visit www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

58 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

WIN SEW EASY

TEMPLATES

6 to win

We have six bundles of circle and star templates to give away! These versatile tools are suitable for a variety of craft projects and will enable you to create accurate and neat shapes with ease. The circle set includes four templates (1", 1½", 2" and 3”) and the star set includes three templates (1", 1½" and 2”), each are composed of durable acrylic and fit neatly on a key ring within a zip pouch making them really easy to transport and store. Sew Easy products are available nationwide from craft, hobby and sewing suppliers. For stockist information email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

2 to win

Pri zes worth £50

WIN A SEW OVER IT ONLINE CLASS It’s the perfect time of year to sew yourself a coat and to help you get off on the right foot, we’re offering two readers an Intro to Sewing Coats: Chloe Coat online class. Lisa Comfort of Sew Over It will talk you through every step of coat making so you’ll end up with an exquisite, fully-lined coat! You’ll be able to access the class from the comfort of your own home at whatever time of day suits! The Chloe Coat features those everimportant pockets, a stylish rounded neck and a handy attachable scarf for those chilly winter days. Find out more about all the fantastic courses and products at Sew Over It by visiting www.sewoverit.co.uk

WIN A PATTERN

WIN A CLOVER

BUNDLE

STITCH GUIDE

Celebrate your curves with a bundle of fabulous plus-size patterns from Butterick and McCall’s. We’re giving away two pattern bundles, each containing the five-garmentsin-one Butterick 6463 pattern (sizes 14-22), the super-stylish dress and jumpsuit Butterick 6130 pattern (sizes 14-22) and the McCall’s 6953 dress pattern (sizes 14-22). To browse the extensive range of patterns available by these brands, visit www.sewdirect.com

Achieve maximum precision with the new Stitch Guide from Clover. This nifty tool will help you achieve a neat and consistent seam width on a variety of projects from garments to quilts and curtains. Simply align the guide with the edge of your fabric, using the graph sheet for guidance, to achieve neat seams even when creating curves. The Stitch Guide sticks securely to metal or plastic surfaces to save any fiddly repositioning and can be easily peeled off after use ready to use on your next make! This guide is suitable for sewing machines with a gap of 8mm or more between the needle clamp screw and a needle plate. Watch the how-to video on the Clover website, www.clover-mfg. com/movie For stockist information, contact Clover mail clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

6

to win

WIN a copy of Mending Matters

HOW TO ENTER

3 to win

Celebrate sustainable sewing and give well-worn clothes a new lease of life with this new book from Katrina Rodabaugh. In Mending Matters: Stitch, Patch, and Repair Your Favorite Denim & More (Abrams Books, £18.99) Katrina addresses attitudes to the clothing industry and encourages readers to use their skills to prolong the longevity of their clothes. Read more by visiting www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk

For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details and tick the products you would like to win, at www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/ category/competitions We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes.

Our full privacy policy is available at www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/privacy Closing date: 28th February 2019. The competition is operated by Practical Publishing International Ltd. For full terms and conditions, see www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/competitions

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BRISTOL

CHESHIRE

DUMFRIES

ESSEX

Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs.

Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

Visit us in store or online to see our range of Dress Fabrics, Patchwork Fabrics from Makower, Moda, Riley Blake and many more, plus knitting yarn and haberdashery.

19 Badminton Road Downend Bristol BS16 6BB Tel. 0117 329 3857 www.fabrics-plus.co.uk info@fabrics-plus.co.uk

CHELTHENHAM

Bernina - Janome - Horn Cabinets - Juki sewing machines and overlockers - Habedashery, threads etc All on display at Internet Prices 11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham, GL50 4AA 01242 244025 info@westendsewing.co.uk

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351

GRIMSBY

HALIFAX

WINCHESTER

Suppliers of sewing machines.

Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

Check out our other engraved craft supplies and gifts!

Unit 10 Waltham Windmill Brigsley Road Grimsby N.E. Lincs DN37 0JZ

The Fabbadashery Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings.

Craft Workshops Every Week! hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

HAMPSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

14 High Street, Alton, Hampshire, GU34 1BN T: 01420 544033 E: hello@stitchedbyyou.co.uk www.stitchedbyyou.co.uk Stocking fabrics, haberdashery, dressmaking patterns, and kits!

We also offer a sewing machine repair service and hold craft workshops.

Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

60 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Unit 12 Blake House Craft Centre, Blake End, Rayne, Essex, CM77 6SH 01376 346 532 www.andsewonfabrics.com info@andsewonfabrics.com

Reads of Winchester

Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA

Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

Fabrics, Haberdashery, Pre-Cuts, Books, Patterns, Panels Tuesday - Saturday 10-5 Sunday 10.30-4

Fun & Cute Wood Buttons, more available from www.dabhandlaser.co.uk

SEW BUSY

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

And Sew On Fabrics

DABhandLaserCraft

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

LINCOLNSHIRE

www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

www.westendsewing.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE

01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com

LONDON

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950 1st Floor, 62 High Street, Winchester, SO23 9BX Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

HARROGATE

is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire.

We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service.

We offer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.

Do pop in and say hello!

www.finefabricsofharrogate.co.uk finefabricsofharrogate@gmail.com

LONDON

LONDON

Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops.

Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft

Discover new sewing skills

15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 maria@sammur.com www.reallymaria.com

Let us teach you the Art of Sewing.

With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email skbtailoring@gmail.com We make learning easy

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY NEWPORT

NORFOLK

NORFOLK

The Fent Shop Everything for dress and curtain making, knitting, needlework, and much more!

41 Broad Street, Kings Lynn, Norfolk, PE30 1DP

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

NORTHUMBERLAND

NORTHALLERTON

Your NEW one stop sewing shop!

Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

01553 768613

Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY

www.thefentshopkingslynn.co.uk

Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

SCOTLAND

SOMERSET

Official Silver Sewing Machine stockist Full range of accessories, needles, pins, scissors, name tape/pens, fabrics, elastics, ribbons, buttons etc

• Sewing classes • Sewing patterns • Large range of fabrics • Machine sales • Machine service/repairs • Haberdashery

Sewing Workshops, popular with all ages from 9 years old upwards.

01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU www.sewingstudiobath.com m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

Alterations Service for Clothing and Soft Furnishings.

01280 308721 maryclarestaples@hotmail.co.uk

SOMERSET

Stockists of: • Gorgeous dressmaking fabrics & accessories • Fabulous yarns • Knit & crochet patterns • Knitpro and Brittany accessories • DMC threads • Classes for beginners Tuesday - Friday 10 - 5, Saturday 10 - 2

SOUTHAMPTON

Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts.

thesewingcorner26@gmail.com

SHEFFIELD

TAMWORTH

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts.

1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

SOUTH WALES

Helen Rhiannon runs the All Sewn Up Workshops in Swansea, South Wales.

www.allsewnupwales.co.uk

2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX Tel; 02381 783386 Monday – Friday 9-5pm Saturday 9-4pm www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

18b Silver Street, Ilminster TA19 0DJ 01460 391803

STAFFORDSHIRE

Call Helen on 07867 915993 Helen's expertise and enthusiasm shine through at the All Sewn Up Wales workshops! You can learn to make your own clothes, gifts or soft furnishings in these friendly and sociable workshops. The kettle is always on!

TEWKESBURY

80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staffs, B77 5BJ

Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting.

Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

To advertise please contact Jane on 0161 474 6976 or email jane.bates@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

thesewcialstudio.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 61

READERS'

Suernsdnaupss! yo AKE OUR STAR M EA WILL RECEIV

Get in touch letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk

£25

Lorna asked you on Facebook…

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS!

Have you done any selfless sewing?

Star make

George

We love these quirky dungarees made using a pattern from issue 7 of Love Sewing. What’s more, the fabric glows in the dark!

You said...

Nicholas: “Yes – anyone who has seen the film Neverending Story will know who this is!”

Caz Caz looks so chic in her Butterick B4443 dress that she made using an exclusive pattern from issue 50, she said: “I eventually braved it and have made my first fully lined dress with zip. So much love went into making it. I love the relaxing release sewing gives me when I am not working at my stressful job.”

Cass

We love this little bunny Cass has made using linen and linen-blend scraps. This is her first attempt at stuffed toys and we think she has done an amazing job!

Yasmin: “One of my very first makes was for my husband.”

Mary: “I always make something as my other half appreciates the time I put in to it so this year he is getting a new shirt, Harris tweed waistcoat and an aran jumper.”

Jojo: “I made my husband and son matching tool belts one year.”

Maggy Maggy made these pretty oven gloves using an exclusive template from issue 62 of Love Sewing – great job, Maggy!

62 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Eva

Eva has created this beautiful coat using the Lisette for Butterick pattern. This pattern was an exclusive gift with issue 47 of Love Sewing.

Lorna: Love Sewing’s Lorna made this cosy Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater as a Christmas gift for her sister Heather (pictured). The fabric is the Dazzle Night French Terry by Atelier Brunette – really soft and lovely to sew with!

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ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT 5 Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33”

38”

High bust measurement

32”

35”

Diference

1”

3”

Adjustment

1/2” SBA = half the diference

11/2” FBA = half the diference

6 Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position.

7 Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

9 The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level.

1 Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

2 Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) 1 Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment.

This is essentially the same process in reverse.

3 From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

2 Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount.

3 The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

4 Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

B

C

D

E

1

1

1

2

2

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can easily do this yourself.

NARROW BACK (FIGS A-C) B

C

A

8 Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. You’ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D)

A

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

apex

2

1 Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point.

2 Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small ¼” adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills.

3 Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) 4 You’ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder.

lap

3

3

BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E)

3

D

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

E

A

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90˚ to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.

LENGTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90˚ to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper.

A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line.

To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

1 Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

B

2 Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a ¼-½” adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together.

3 Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) 4 This time you’ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned.

Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that you’ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

ESSENTIAL STITCH SETTINGS Zigzag finish

Pinking shears finish

(WS)

Topstitched finish

(WS)

(WS)

French seam

Overlocker finish

first seam allowance

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

(WS)

Hong Kong finish

bias tape

stitch seam allowance only

fold over then stitch in the ditch

ULTIMATE EMBROIDERY GUIDE BACKSTITCH

FEATHER STITCH

BLANKET STITCH

COUCH STITCH

CROSS STITCH

FISHBONE STITCH

FRENCH KNOTS

B

B

C A

F

A

E

D

K G

I

J

H

LADDER STITCH

LONG AND SHORT STITCH

RUNNING STITCH

SATIN STITCH

STRAIGHT STITCH AKA SEED STITCH

SPLIT STITCH

A

B 1 2

3 D

C

We love HOME

DISH of the day These pretty fabric dishes make a great storage solution and they’re reversible too!

Project BETH STUDLEY

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 10� square (25cm square) Fabric 1 • 10� square (25cm square) Fabric 2 • 10x20� (25x50cm) cotton wadding • co-ordinating thread • fabric pen or ballpoint pen • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: All seam allowances are 1⠄4� (5mm) unless otherwise stated A walking foot is recommended throughout You could use a 10� (25cm) charm pack/layer cake pre-cut for the fabric in this project

HOW TO MAKE: Cut the wadding into two 10� (25cm) squares, then print and cut out the paper template. There are eight darts marked on the template.

These will be cut out at a later stage but for now, leave them as they are.

68 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Take the square of Fabric 1 and place it RS up on top of one of the wadding squares.

Line up the raw edges and pin around the edges to secure in place.

Starting in one corner, quilt in a wavy line, diagonally to the opposite corner. Continue to quilt diagonal lines approximately 1⠄2� (1cm) apart either side until the whole square is covered. Repeat on the opposite diagonal so that you create a grid.

Place the template, centrally, on top of the RS of the square and draw around it.

Cut it out and repeat these stages for Fabric 2 and the other wadding square.

Take the template and cut the marked darts out of it, then take the ďŹ rst bowl side and place the template on the WS lining up the edges.

Mark the darts with the pen by drawing around the shape of the eight triangles you cut out. Starting at the ďŹ rst dart,

fold the fabric RST, through the centre of the marked lines.

Starting at the wide end of the dart, sew following the marked line. Sew all the way to the point and off the end of the fabric. Trim the excess fabric of the dart back to 1⠄8� (3mm).

Sew all the darts in this way and repeat for the second side of the bowl.

Once both pieces have been shaped, turn one of them so the RS of the fabric is on the inside. Place the other one inside so you have one inside the other with RS together. Pin in place around the top. Ensure that you line up the raw edges and darts exactly. Sew together around the top, leaving a turning gap between two of the darts.

Trim the seams back to 1â „8â€? (3mm) all around, apart from at the turning gap. Turn RS out and ďŹ nger-press the top of the bowl all the way round to manipulate it into

shape. Press with an iron.

Carefully turn the seams inside at the turning gap. Pin in place and press well. Stitch a line all around the top of the bowl 1⠄8� (3mm) from the edge, closing the turning gap in the process.

ABOUT THE BOOK

Mini Patchwork Projects: 6 Sewing Patterns for the Contemporary Crafter by Beth Studley, published by F&W Media

We love

STYLE

True

BLUE A classic yet stylish A-line skirt that wraps at the front and fastens with buttons. The perfect garment to take you through the seasons Project ANEKA TRUMAN Made to Sew

Shopping list Ultra Light Couture Interfacing, ÂŁ2.99 per half metre www.madetosew.com and Tomahawk Linen, ÂŁ17 per metre www.merchantandmills.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 69

A

B

C

D

E

F

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.75m fabric such as cotton, linen and lightweight wool • 0.5m lightweight fusible interfacing • 6 1.5cm (5/8”) buttons • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance has been used and 2cm (3/4”) hem allowance

SIZING: CUTTING: BODY MEASUREMENTS

WAIST

HIP

0

25"

63cm

35"

89cm

1

26"

66cm

36"

91cm

2

28"

71cm

38"

96.5cm

3

301/2"

77cm

40"

101.5cm

4

33"

84cm

421/2"

108cm

5

351/2"

90cm

45"

114cm

6

38"

96cm

47"

119cm

When cutting out a single layer, position the fabric RS facing up Place pattern RS facing up on top • 1 Right Front • 1 Left Front • 1 Back on the fold • 1 Waistband

HOW TO MAKE:

70 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1 Cut out the pieces and apply the interfacing to the WS of the waistband. Position a strip of interfacing behind the buttonholes and button

markings. This can measure approximately 5cm (2”) wide and cover the length of the skirt.

2 Position the interfacing so that it passes the fold line, towards the edge of the skirt by 1cm (2”). (See Pic A.) 3 Mark notches and button placement with your choice of carbon paper, chalk, tailor’s tacks or a removeable pen.

4 Stay-stitch or use bias-cut fusible interfacing to stabilise the waist of the skirt (Right Front, Left Front and Back).

5 Place RST and sew the Right Front to the Back along the side seam. Sew the Left Front to the Back along the side seam. Use a 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance. Press open.

(See Pic B.) 6 Finish the hem with the overlocker. Secure the overlocker tails by threading them back through the overlocking.

7 Press the fold line on the

G

H

I

J

K

L

Right Front and Left Front towards the WS. (See Pic C.) 8 Position the waistband with fabric RST onto the waist of the skirt. Match notches for Centre Back, RS and Left Side.

There should be 1.5cm (5/8”) of waistband overlapping the front edge on each side of the skirt. (See Pic D.) 9 Attach the waistband to the skirt. Press the seam allowances towards the waistband. Trim and grade if required.

Press the 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance on the opposite edge of the waistband towards the WS. (See Pic E.) Press the waistband in half, so that the pressed inside edge covers the stitching, securing the waistband to the skirt. (See Pic F.) Finish the front ends of the waistband. Fold the waistband along the top-fold edge so that the RS of the fabric are facing. Pull down the seam

on the front side of the garment catching the inside of the waistband.

Press up the 2cm (3/4”) hem allowance to the WS. Finish the front hem edges of the facings. Fold the fabric RST and stitch across the crease pressed in Step 13.

(See Pic J.) Make sure that both the Right Front and Left Front are the same length.

Trim the corner of the facing and trim the facing seam allowances to 1cm (3/8”).

(See Pic K.) Hand-sew the hem, or stitch with a sewing machine using a larger stitch length,

Top tip!

For a robust garment that will stand the test of time finish the side seams and hem with an overlocker

allowances on both edges and sew. (See Pic G.) Make sure you do not catch the edge of the skirt. Press the seam allowances open and trim to 5mm (1/4”), cut away the top corner and trim any extra bulk.

(See Pic H.) Fold the waistband in position, RS facing out and poke out the corner. (See Pic I.) Either hand-sew the inside of the waistband using a slip stitch or stitch in the ditch

(3.5mm), 1.5cm (5/8”) away from the bottom edge.

Mark the buttonhole placement with an air-erasable pen. Conirm the desired distance between buttons.

Sew the buttonholes; feel free to amend the length of the stitches, add cording or use a stabiliser. Watch Aneka's buttonholes series on YouTube to help, at www.youtube.com/ user/madetosew.

Check the button placement matches the buttonholes. Then inish by sewing the buttons on by hand, or on the machine.

(See Pic L.)

BEHIND THE SEAMS

By the

SEASIDE We chat to Sophie Chadwick, from the lovely Cornish company Seasalt, about her fabric line and family clothing business and how pieces are each inspired by the beautiful sea views outside their studio window

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 73

Let’s start at the beginning, tell us about your business and what makes it special Our company began in 1981, which means we’re 36 this year! All those years ago, on a wet August day, the Chadwick family went into a little shop in Adelaide Street, Penzance, called General Clothing Stores. They went in to buy some waterproof coats, but ended up buying the shop as well! Our customers in those days were the sailors, farmers and fishermen of the area, quite a few of St Ives’s artists came in as well. Those early days have really influenced how our products look today.

Sophie

The three Chadwick brothers, Leigh, David and Neil, had worked in the family shop all their lives, on and off. When their dad Don passed away in 2001, the brothers decided to create a clothing brand inspired by all the things they love about Cornwall, and Seasalt was born! I met my husband Neil in 2004. I’m a print designer so, with my love of textiles and Neil’s endless ideas and enthusiasm, our Seasalt journey began.

What are some of your most popular items and why do you think customers love them?

Our first garment was the Sailor shirt with the classic nautical stripe. We used organic cotton because we love its soft feel and great quality. It’s still one of our bestsellers and we sell them in a whole host of colours. Our Seafolly mac is made with our own fabric, Tin Cloth, which is an organic cotton canvas that’s totally waterproof and windproof.

It’s our take on the traditional fisherman’s mac and it never fails to be popular. I think our appeal is that simplicity is at the heart of everything we do, and we strive to make

Did you know Seasalt also sell buttons?

everything not only beautiful but also useful. Our products have a utilitarian feel but at the same time we only use the softest, most comfortable and beautiful fabric available, and always speak of the wonderful place we live and work in, Cornwall.

The team sews using hand-crank sewing machines

You’ve recently expanded to start selling your own fabric. What inspired you to do this?

As I’m a print designer, my real passion lies with our unique prints, which we’ve always featured across our womenswear and accessories.

When we launched our bed linen range it gave us another opportunity to showcase the prints on a different scale. However, we’ve always had lots of customers who are handy with a sewing machine and who wanted to make their own creations using our textile prints so last year we introduced the first of our cut fabric range of cottons and voiles.

We’re so thrilled with how well it’s been received and customers are already proudly sending in pictures of their makes to us – we love to see them! Now we’ve expanded to offer other substrates like needlecord, chambray and twill. Plus a small number of haberdashery items!

How did you come up with the designs?

We’re very lucky to live in such a beautiful part of the world and it’s the flora and fauna found all around Cornwall that provides a constant source of inspiration – you’ll often find pretty foliage, anemones, leaves and

74 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

It's the flora and fauna found all around Cornwall that provides a constant source of inspiration

seed heads within our prints. Our design studio overlooks Falmouth Bay so we also find ourselves constantly sketching the sailing boats. And the Falmouth Working Boats racing, with their distinctive brightly coloured topsails are a wonderful sight!

The team takes inspiration from the gorgeous cornish coastline

Seasalt's fabric range starts at £9.95 per metre and £29.95 for 3 metres, all from www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk

Which fabric designers/style icons do you look up to?

There are so many people I have admired over the years. I love the bold designs of Finnish company Marimekko, the beautiful colour combinations of French knitwear designer Catherine André and I have always been drawn towards the textiles of the 1920s, from intricate beaded dresses, Raoul Dufy textile designs and in particular the textiles of the Wiener Werkstätte.

Tell us what a day in your life looks like I can be doing anything from sketching in the garden or creating lino or potato prints, to testing out colour dyes to create each season’s palette. Then of course, I get to work with the wonderful Design Team and we’ll look at the different prints and designs and see how well they’re working together – where we can make improvements or recolour prints which have been really popular to offer something fresh. It may be a cliché but every day really is different!

How do you like to spend your free time?

I go for coastal walks around Cornwall with my husband and dog, visit galleries and exhibitions, and meet with friends, sampling all the great restaurants and cafes of Falmouth.

FIND OUT MORE To learn more about Seasalt Cornwall and the gorgeous limited edition fabric collections, visit www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk

We’re so thrilled with how well the fabric has been received and customers are already proudly sending in pictures of their makes to us

What can we expect to see from Seasalt this year?

Our Modern Creatives project inspires people to live a simple and creative life and we do this by supporting creativity in our community. The Seasalt Bursary, for instance, funds a novice potter at the renowned Leach Pottery and we’re longstanding supporters of the International Sea Shanty Festival in Falmouth. We also invite people to share their creative projects through our #SeasaltArtsClub, and we profile the work of successful Cornish makers, creatives and pioneers each month.

See how we used Seasalt cotton twill to make a swishy maxi shirtdress on page 18

communities that sprang up in Newlyn, Lamorna and St Ives during the 20th century, taking inspiration from strong female artists such as Wilhelmina BarnsGraham and Sandra Blow.

And of course we’ll soon be launching our new collection of womenswear, which we’re really excited about. We love to draw on Cornwall’s artistic heritage and culture!

For example our autumn/winter 2018 collection focused on the thriving artistic

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 75

New Look 6574 dress, available in sizes 6-18, priced ÂŁ7.50 from www.sewdirect.com

MASTERCLASS

RADIANT RAYON We've rounded up the expert advice you'll need for sewing rayon aka viscose fabric with success

Don't miss Make the new Simple Sew viscose blouse over on page 92 and practise your new skills!

76 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Rayon comes in a range of fun prints and colours and has a luxurious feel, you’ll want to showcase it at its best. Follow our top tips for sewing success FIRST THINGS FIRST What is rayon? Viscose (also known as rayon in the US) is what is known as a manmade ibre rather than synthetic.

It is actually derived from plant-based materials that go through a chemical washing process. It is often made of soy, bamboo or sugar cane and was invented in the 1890s.

The name viscose derives from the word viscosity and comes from the thick liquid consistency of the ibres after treatment. Originally used to strengthen car tyres, it soon became woven into a fabric with similar properties to silk at a fraction of the cost.

IMITATION GAME Overall, rayon has the ability to imitate so many materials such as cotton, linen, silk and wool. We use the term challis with rayon because it refers to the soft characteristic of the material, and it's barely brushed surface texture. You may also see jersey fabric called viscose jersey. This mix is characterised by a great drape and luidity as well as being stretchy.

WORRY-FREE WASHING As rayon/viscose shrinks, you should pre-wash your fabric on a cool wash setting and hang as lat as possible to dry. When you irst pull your fabric out of the machine it will be stif and shrivelled up, but DON'T WORRY, when the fabric dries it will regain its lovely luid handle. You will probably need to press your fabric well before you use it as it can easily crease.

HARD TO HANDLE Always choose good-quality rayon which is not too loosely woven as this makes it easier to work with. Shops can be quite loose and free with the term viscose as they may not know the true composition of the fabric they are selling. You can try using a spray-in starch that washes out later or giving

Why not

TRY?

your fabric a gelatine bath before you start cutting out so the fabric has more body during construction.

While sewing, try not to pull or stretch the fabric, the same applies to pressing: carefully move the nottoo-hot iron over your fabric without distorting it.

CHOOSING A STYLE

All About the Xs black viscose, £4.99 per half metre www.materialgirllaura.co.uk

Rayon can seem to have a life of its own and always wants to slink of your sewing table, so choose a simple sewing pattern style with minimal seams if you're short on worktop space.

It will also stretch out of shape easily on the bias so if you're making a dress or skirt with a curved hem let the fabric drop overnight and trim the hem back into shape before hemming.

Viscose Open Roses, £3.50 per half metre www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk

TOP TOOLS Use sharp scissors for cutting out or use a rotary cutter. It might be worth using scissors with a serated edge as these will grip the fabric as they cut and stop the fabric from slipping around leaving an untidy edge.

Change your sewing machine needle to a iner 70/12 size, also use ine sharp pins. Viscose will easily snag so don't be tempted to use an old needle or you may end up with snags and pulls on your garment.

Sarvanga viscose, £7.45 per half metre www.sewisfaction.co.uk

Use soft and light interfacing so it doesn’t interfere with the gorgeous drape of the rayon but still holds the shape you need.

TIME TO SEW Adjust your machine tension and stitch length and try sewing the fabric with smaller pieces before starting on the real garment. Use a straight stitch and for inishing the seams use a zigzag stitch or overlocker.

John Louden: Radiance Rose viscose, £8.52 per metre www.fabricateshop.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77

The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: info@franknutt.co.uk

Three ways to buy - online

by telephone

Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice.

Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration.

We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines.

Creative free-machine embroidery workshops with Claire Muir.

We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display.

We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops.

Free customer car park.

www.franknutt.co.uk

78 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

or visit the shop

We love HOOPS

Best of the

BUNCH Use felt to create this colourful and easy-to-make decoration Project CHLOE REDFERN

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • • • • • •

size 10 embroidery needle 6” embroidery hoop small, sharp scissors 7”-square neutral coloured felt smaller piece of felt for backing the hoop 6 diferent colours of large felt pieces for lowers & leaves seed beads in co-ordinating colours to felt pieces co-ordinating thread to match felt contrast thread for adding detail templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: You can use invisible thread to sew on the beads. It’s a little tricky to see but gives a tidier inish

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Cut out the pattern pieces and lay them out in the same arrangement as the pattern layout.

2 Carefully stretch the large piece of felt in the embroidery hoop, don’t over-stretch it as felt can be quite fragile, but make sure it’s fairly taught.

3 Working your way through the shapes one by one, place them onto the appropriate felt colours and draw around them, then cut out. Place the felt pieces onto the felt you have stretched in the hoop, referring to the pattern drawing for where to place them.

4 Carefully tack the felt pieces in place by making a large stitch on each one, this will hold them in place whilst you stitch around them.

5 Next, select thread colours that match the felt and using one strand, carefully stitch around each shape to secure, making the stitches very small. When

this is complete, remove the large stitches you added to tack the shapes into place.

6 Now choose colours that contrast with the felt to add the detail stitches. To add the detail to the petals, make one long stitch up the centre of each one, and then add two more splaying out from the bottom of this to the sides of the petal. To add the detail to the leaves, make one long stitch up the centre of each leaf, and then add small straight stitches splaying out from this diagonally.

7 To add the beads, simply bring the needle up through the felt wherever you would like to add them, thread a bead on the needle/thread, and pull the needle and thread through. Start in the centre of each flower and work your way around.

8 To back the hoop, trim the felt around the edge of

the hoop leaving at least 1” spare all the way around.

9 Next, thread a needle with some plain cotton and make large straight stitches around the edge, ensuring that the ends of the thread both come out of the fabric on the same side.

Pull the threads together (like a drawstring bag) at the back of the embroidery, and tie them together.

Now remove the outer hoop from the embroidery.

Draw around the inside of the hoop onto a piece of felt, and cut this out.

Replace the hoop on the embroidery.

Finally, place the felt circle on the back of the embroidery and make small whip stitches all the way around it, passing through the fabric at the edge of the hoop to secure it in place.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79

It's a ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

MATCH! Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, shares her top tips for pattern matching plaids, checks and stripes Plaids, checks and stripes come in all types of fabric, whatever the fabric composition, they need to be handled if you wish to match stripes and checks.

or bar. If the fabric design and colours are the same at either side of the folded bar you have an ‘even’ design. If they are not, it is an ‘uneven design’. (see Diagram A opposite).

WHAT ARE PLAIDS?

Even designs – use the ‘without nap’ layout as long as the fabric doesn’t have a pile or is brushed cotton. Cut from folded fabric as usual pinning the stripes or checks together well before laying out the pattern.

The difference between plaids and checks is that plaids have lengthwise and crosswise stripes or bars, which can be even or uneven in design although they will have a dominant stripe both vertically and horizontally. Checks and stripes however can be evenly spaced or uneven in design.

Stripes are the simplest of the three styles as they have either horizontal or vertical lines to follow and are therefore easier to match.

Top tip!

Determine the most dominant stripe in a plaid by hanging the fabric over a chair, step back and see which stripe stands out!

EVEN AND UNEVEN DESIGNS Use your issue 63 pattern gift to practice placing dominant stripes down the centre of main pattern pieces (McCall’s 6891)

80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

To determine whether your fabric has an even or uneven design (and therefore how you should cut it out) fold your fabric down the centre of a lengthways dominant stripe

Uneven designs – Use the 'with nap' layout for uneven plaid or check designs – this means that all pieces are laid out facing in the same direction from top to bottom. Cut from a single layer of fabric right side up so you can clearly see the fabric design. This will ensure that an intricate plaid design with several thick and thin stripes will be easier to match.

You can also decide whether the uneven design goes around the body, or mirror image it from the centre front/back.

PLAID GOING AROUND THE FIGURE To lay out the pattern so the design goes around, fold the fabric at the centre of a main bar or group of bars and position the pattern piece that must be cut on the fold. Then cut the remaining pieces from a single layer (see Top Tips on page 81).

MIRROR-IMAGE EFFECT To mirror the image, the garment must have a centre front and back seam or closure.

crosswise fold

main lengthwise bar

EVEN PLAID main lengthwise bar

Lay out on a single layer of fabric, cutting the main front and back pieces once, then reverse and turn upside down before cutting again. Place the centre seams or centre front lines along the centre of the main bar or group of bars. Again, place the sleeve piece so the centre of the sleeve is along a main bar. To cut out the second sleeve, reverse and turn the pattern piece. Match the direction of the plaid on the right sleeve with the right side of the bodice piece and the left sleeve with the left side of the bodice.

Top Tips

crosswise fold

• Only use stripes, checks and plaids with commercial patterns if they are listed among the 'suggested fabric' or shown in the illustrations/photography. Sometimes patterns will actually say ‘not suitable for checks/plaids’ so if you want matching checks, avoid these!

UNEVEN PLAID

fold main bar in half match bars

• Keep the design simple – choose patterns with a minimal number of pieces so there is less matching up to do.

• Note that to match plaids and checks will usually require more fabric than a plain or all-over fabric pattern. For small, even plaids or stripes, add 25–50cm extra. For large, even designs, add 1m.

• Draw the seam line on the pattern tissue (generally this is 1.5cm on most dressmaking patterns). This will help with pattern matching.

A bold stripe well-matched at seams can look stunning (Kwik Sew 4173)

EVEN STRIPE fold main bar in half bars don’t match

UNEVEN STRIPE

Get this pattern with issue 57, for £5.99 from the Love Sewing website

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 81

• Place the tissue pieces carefully so the dominant stripes on the fabric are not placed at the widest points, ie chest, hips or hemline. Place the main pieces first so that the prominent vertical bars and large squares will fall at the centre front and back of the garment, at the centre of sleeves, yokes and collars.

C

Enjoy working with plaids – the results can be brilliant!

• When you need to cut two of a piece, flip the pattern pieces to cut right and left sides, matching checks/stripes at the same point on pattern pieces.

Remember to account for seam allowances when matching the design.

ADAPTING THE PATTERN TISSUE • To match the front to back perfectly trace some of the fabric design onto the pattern at the notch area and indicate colours of dominant stripes etc. Place the pattern piece to be joined on top of the first piece, lapping the seam lines and matching notches. Trace off the design onto the second piece (see Diagram B).

B

or eased seams and circle skirts.

Half-circle skirts will have chevrons at the side seams.

• To achieve a match across an armhole is a difficult task due to the curved seams involved and as mentioned isn’t possible on the front and back at the same time. But for the best look, match the underarm points of the bodice front and front sleeve so the prints match down the body.

• When adding pockets, collars and cuffs, cut the pieces on the bias of the plaid or the alternative direction of the stripes to provide visual interest. (See Diagram D.) • Baste seams by hand before sewing to help ensure they don’t shift as you handle and sew them.

• Use a walking foot to help prevent one layer from creeping out of line as you machine-stitch.

D

• Place the second pattern piece on the fabric, making sure that the traced design matches the fabric pattern and previous pattern piece placement (see Diagram C).

• Try to ensure the design matches the vertically and horizontally at the centre back and centre back of the collar.

• The stripes or checks can’t be matched at some seams such as raglan seams, shoulder seams, darts, the area above the bust dart on princess seams, the back of the armhole seam, gathered

82 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Keep in mind the direction of pattern pieces when working with uneven stripes (McCall's 7430)

If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your perfect companion. Each issue is filled with beautiful quilting projects from big bed quilts to must-have accessories, using the latest fabric and stash-friendly scraps

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PATTERN

A CUT above

Master those tricky techniques with these skill-building patterns

Don your dungarees

Stretch your skills

Dungarees are a wardrobe staple and so much fun to make! We love the Mila Dungarees from Tilly and the Buttons, they offer a slim fit around the legs and hips and feature pretty button fastenings as well as those ever-essential pockets. The pattern is available in sizes 6-20 for ÂŁ12.50.

Quash those fiddly fabric fears by sewing some comfy activewear using the versatile Kwik Sew 4163. This season-spanning pattern includes two pullover tops with flattering front seam details, shorts and ankle-length leggings. Mix solid and patterned prints for a flattering and fun workout outfit. The K4163 is ÂŁ8.99 in sizes XS-XL.

SAVE 20% on patterns at Jaycotts between 19th January and 28th February using the code LOVE20. Jaycotts stocks an incredible range of sewing goodies including patterns, haberdashery, machines and storage, visit www.jaycotts.co.uk to ind out more. Ofer subject to availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other ofers.

84 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

That’s a wrap!

SAVE 20% at Jaycotts with the code

LOVE20

Vintage-inspired fashion with contemporary appeal is beautifully captured in Sew Over It’s 1940’s wrap dress. This elegant pattern features a wrap-front bodice with a hidden-button closure for a flattering fit and pretty pleat detailing around the shoulders. The pattern offers variations in skirt and sleeve length so you can adapt it for any season. Available in sizes 8-20 for £14.

Rain check Come rain or shine this stylish trench coat from Simplicity will keep you feeling fabulous whatever the weather. Part of the Ashley Nell Tipton for Simplicity range, this lined, collarless trench has two stylish options and is available in sizes 18W-34W for £9.50.

Dress to impress This timelessly elegant Ralph Rucci dress from Vogue offers plenty of scope for you to stretch your dressmaking skills. Pretty detailing is captured in the raglan sleeves with slits and quilting yoke design on the bodice and sleeves. The skirt features a one-way front pleat and flattering sidefront pockets. This is a pattern you’ll be reaching for year after year!

Available in sizes 4-20, £16.

Classic palazzo pants These gorgeous trousers are classically styled with a centre-back zip, waistband (that sits on the natural waist) and two easy side-seam pockets.

You can make the trousers longer or Don’t sweat it shorter depending your by Stay cosy during the winter months on with thisheight fitted pullover theoptions length from McCall’s. The pattern includesadjusting five garment thehems. shorten or with varying necklines, sleeve stylesat and Upgrade lengthen on the your functional knit with pretty bead detailingline as pictured Priced here – this pattern is really versatilepattern. so you can adapt£10 it to suit your style. Available in sizes XS-XXL for £9.75. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 85

A BRIEF HISTORY OF

A brief history of

THE BIKINI From conservative swimsuits of old to the more practical two piece – the compelling history of women’s swimwear shows it wasn’t always plain sailing when it came to practical beach attire. Wendy Ward explores the evolution of this ever-changing garment

By Wendy Ward 86 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

s there a more divisive item of clothing than the bikini?

Associated with both the objectification of the female body and female sartorial emancipation; it’s hard to remember that the bikini has only been part of our lives for just over 70 years.

I

It first emerged in 1946 as the atome, a two-piece swimsuit created by French designer Jacques Heim. Crucially, in terms of public sensibilities, the atome had briefs that sat high enough to cover the wearer’s belly button and thus preventing too much moral outrage.

This changed when Louis Réard, another French designer, launched his bikini swimsuit just two months later. It seems Réard was a much better marketeer and his bikini design, while being smaller all over, also had one element that was shockingly different to Heim’s design – a brief that was worn below the belly button! Who knew a woman’s belly button had the power to provoke such hand-wringing and cause moral offence in the coming decades?

The names of both designs were drawn from world events at the time and no doubt inspired by the popular description of attractive women in the 1940s as ‘bombshells’. The name of Heim’s atome two-piece was described by the designer as ‘the world's smallest bathing suit’ and was entitled after the recently discovered atom.

Réard’s bikini was named after Bikini Atoll, the site where the first atomic bomb test took place in same year as the bikini’s launch. Talk about product placement.

Did you know?

Roman mosaics show two-piece leisurewear could have been around much earlier than we first thought

that Heim designed the world's smallest bathing suit?

But, has the two-piece swimsuit actually been around for over 1,600 years? Inside the Villa Romana del Casale, a Roman villa in Sicily with one of the best collections of Roman mosaics in the world, is a particular mosaic showing women dressed in what I can only describe as people wearing ‘Roman bikinis’ taking part in sports and the crowning of a winner. Those Romans were so ahead of the game, not only did they introduce us to plumbing, underfloor heating, the calendar and concrete but they also invented the bikini!

Before the bikini’s rise in popularity, in the early 20th century, bathing suits for women were strange one-piece suits with legs and often frilly-skirted cumbersome

The Vogue V9255 pattern depicts swimwear style circa 1960 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87

Bikinis today come in numerous shapes and sizes, from string bikinis to tankinis, there’s a style that everybody can feel comfortable in.

The evolution of women’s swimwear prompted lexical variations to describe categories of two-piece swimsuits

garments and women had to be contained on separate parts of the beach to swim.

Still to this day the bikini is banned in some parts of the world and restricted in others. Long associated with beauty pageants and Miss World contests, the commercialisation of the bikini has often deflected its practical functionality in favour of promoting sexual and aesthetic appeal. One effect is that, even when worn by serious sportswomen such as Olympic beach volleyball teams, these too have been sexualised in press imagery. Frustrating, because from a purely practical point of view, what better and more comfortable thing to wear for swimming and playing sport on a beach in scorching weather than a bikini? After the buttoned-up era of the early 20th century it must’ve felt pretty liberating to suddenly have the freedom to essentially run around in your bra and pants!

Bikinis today come in numerous shapes and sizes, from string bikinis to tankinis – there’s a style that everybody can feel comfortable in. Women from the celebrity world including TV presenter Lorraine Kelly and actress Helen Mirren have also helped to reinstall the message that the bikini is not limited to younger women, encouraging those of all ages to embrace the bikini trend without fear.

The rise of indie pattern designers over recent years, as well as the increased availability of activewear fabric, including nylon and Lycra have made it more achievable to sew your own swimwear, and there has been a growth in the range of bikini sewing patterns that are available.

If you fancy having a go, here are some recommendations for patterns and fabric.

88 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

The commercialisation of the bikini remains a controversial topic with some groups condemning the sexualised connotations that accompany fashion beachwear

Sew your own bikini Burda has a good selection of swimwear patterns. www.burda style.com

Crafts or Sew Essential for its range of swimwear patterns.

Where to buy swimwear fabric: Minerva Crafts has some swimwear fabric. www.minervacrafts.com My Fabrics has a comprehensive swimwear fabric section. www.myfabrics.co.uk

Indie pattern company Swim Style does nothing but swimwear patterns. www.swimstyle.com.au

Funki Fabrics has lots of choice for swimwear patterns. www.funkifabrics.com

Sophie Swimsuit by Closet Case Patterns. www.store. closetcasepatterns.com

Jalie Patterns has a few swimwear patterns. www.jalie.com

The big pattern brands don’t have a great range of swimwear patterns.

I’d recommend looking at Minerva

The development of women’s swimwear is often discussed in tandem with women’s sartorial emancipation

ABOUT WENDY Wendy designs her own range of adaptable modern sewing patterns called MIY Collection.

She is a qualified teacher with a degree in fashion and spent seven years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach dressmaking from her own studio in 2011. She has written three books about dressmaking: A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics, A Beginner’s Guide to Making Skirts and The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking. Find out more about Wendy by visiting www.wendyward.co.uk

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We love

STYLE

See the SUNNY side Practise working with floaty fabric with this lovely blouse that goes great with jeans!

Project CLAIRE GARSIDE Simple Sew

Shopping list Find more beautiful viscose fabric at www.sewmesunshine.co.uk

92 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A

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LAYPLAN: 60"-wide fabric FOLD

SIZING: 6

8

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18

20

BUST

33”

35”

37”

39”

41”

43”

45”

47”

WAIST

30”

32”

34”

36”

38”

40”

42”

44”

HEM WIDTH

30”

32”

34”

36”

38”

40”

42”

44”

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

HOW TO MAKE:

• 2.1m 45”-wide or 1.75m 60”-wide fabric • 5 buttons or snap closures • 1m lightweight fusible interfacing • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1 Gather the upper edges of each bodice front. Sew from the notch, stopping just outside the 1.5cm seam allowance of the neckline. Adjust gathers so that the front bodice and yoke are the same width.

2 One set of yokes will be used for the outer and the other pair as a lining.

3 RST pin a front yoke to the corresponding front bodice, and then pin the corresponding yoke lining

NOTES: Finish the raw edges with a machine zigzag stitch or overlocker Use a 1cm seam allowance unless instructed otherwise

RS to WS, to sandwich the bodice between the two.

Repeat for the other bodice front and remaining yokes.

4 Stitch in place, and carefully trim seam allowances to avoid bulk and then press both upwards, WST. 5 Gather the back bodice between the notches, and adjust to match the width of the back yoke.

6 As in Step 3, sandwich the back bodice with its yoke and yoke lining and sew.

Trim the seam allowance and then press upwards.

7 RST, pin the front yokes to the back yoke at the shoulder seams. Stitch in place and press seams open.

8 Manoeuvre the yoke lining pieces so that they are RST without twisting the fabric. Pin and stitch together. (See Pic A.) Press seams open. Stitch in the ditch along the shoulder seams to attach the layers.

9 Stay-stitch around neckline and armholes within the seam allowance. (See Pic B.)

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RST pin the sleeve and cuf, then stitch. Press cuf and seam allowance down.

Pin the sleeves lat into armholes RST. Stitch in place, easing fabric as you go. (See Pic C.) RST pin the side seams together from the cuf to the bodice hem. Stitch each side in a single motion and press seam open.

Press the cufs in half WST, then press under the raw seam allowance by 1cm. Stitch in the ditch from RS to secure cuf on inside.

Turn up the hem by 1.5cm, press then stitch in place. Press again.

Interface one pair of plackets and a back facing.

RST stitch at the shoulder seams. Press seams open.

Repeat for other pair.

Sew the non-interfaced assembled plackets

to the blouse using a 1.5cm seam allowance.

Clip and notch the curved seam allowance and trim to 0.5cm.

Press allowance towards placket Pin the plackets Choose lightweight RST. Stitch woven fabric for in place, and this blouse with some then across drape such as viscose, the bottom silk, satin, or matching the cotton lawn hem point. (See Pic D.) Trim the corner of.

Turn through to RS and press in place.

Pin together plackets through all layers and then stitch in the ditch of the placket seam line.

(See Pic E.) You can now make buttonholes or install snap fasteners to inish.

D

Top tip

E

Stitch in ditch

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94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

BOOK OF THE MONTH

Mending Matters

by Katrina Rodabaugh, £18.99, Abrams Books Hi Katrina! How did you begin your journey into mending clothes?

I started my project Make Thrift Mend shortly after the Rana Plaza garment factory collapsed in Bangladesh in 2013 killing over 1,100 workers. This tragedy inspired me to take a one-year hiatus from buying new clothing. Instead, I wanted to focus on making simple garments, buying secondhand and mending what I already owned. In that first year of my project a friend asked me to teach mending at her fabric shop. It sold out, much to my surprise.

That’s when I realised people wanted to know how to mend their clothes and I could help them to make their wardrobes more sustainable.

What inspired you to write Mending Matters?

Since launching my slow fashion project, I’ve been teaching mending, natural

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dyes, and sustainable fashion across the United States and received requests for mending techniques from all over the world.

I realised that if I published a mending guide based on my workshops, the guide could travel for me!

What are common misconceptions people have about mending clothes?

People often assume it’s technically difficult but basic mending can be very simple.

My book is based on just three of the simplest stitches – straight stitch, running stitch and whipstitch. With these and some consideration of the basic elements of design (scale, line, colour, etc) there are infinite possibilities for repairs without being a masterful stitcher.

What is your favourite project inside the book?

The denim jacket was my favourite to repair. Denim jackets are a beautiful shape and a great canvas for using various patching and

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stitching combinations. So, when I found this vintage workwear jacket that needed multiple repairs I was thrilled. It was a joy to mend!

Do you have any tips for sewists looking to extend the life of their garments?

The first step is to get the mending done quickly so it is easier to fix. If you continue to wear the garment you’ll worsen the tear.

Also, if we can wash only as needed, with warm or cool water and air-dry, that’s better for the garment and the planet. When we buy or make clothes we love, need, and value we also tend to care for them better and keep them in good use – that’s the ultimate goal to extending the life of the garment.

TIME FOR TEA Explore the iconic history of the humble tea towel and how it has introduced textile art into households for generations, inside The Art of the Tea Towel

by Marnie Fogg.

Available now for £16.99 from www. pavilionbooks.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 95

Next month in

T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

3 GREAT GIFTS

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Butterick 4386 Everyday shift dresses Threadcount 1902

Ultimate T-shirt pack Bonus bookazine

Tilly & The Buttons special Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P History of Savile Row with Wendy Ward P Sew a pretty fit-and-flare dress P Make a cardigan with our easy tutorial P Meet the inspiring women involved with Sew Over 50!

Plus much more!

Sizes

6-22

ISSUE 64 ON SALE 21ST FEB 2019 Ultimate duo of

T-SHIRTS

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Sewing bonus book

TILLY & THE BUTTONS

Quick and fun

HOME UPDATES See page 26 for our subscriber offer

Brilliant bags with

DEBBIE SHORE y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend n Smith MBE Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Aliso *All contents subject to change.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 97

This month 1'm making Nautical stripes never go out of style. We love Duncan's self-drafted tee with contrast cuffs.

See more of his stylish makes at www.instagram.com/duncan_carter

F

or this tee, I used my self-drafted T-shirt pattern, which has become a real staple for a quick make. I am also developing various sleeve pattern pieces that I can swap around for alternative styles. I had a little mishap with the sewing this time; I drafted a skinnier sleeve piece but was a bit lazy with the notches and marking, so when I came to sew the sleeve in, I somehow ended up tilting the sleeve and putting it too far back.

I managed to rectify it, but this wasn’t much fun considering I’d used my overlocker!

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabric and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily, to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities.

Each blogger's unique kit is available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

This was my first time using any of the Art Gallery Fabric and I must say I really fell in love with its softness and easiness to sew. It’s 95% pima cotton, which apparently is the Rolls Royce of cotton!

I’ve already washed it a few times, and it seems to retain its 'newness' rather well.

I wanted to add a sporty element and had originally planned to use Prym fold-over elastic as a trim on the sleeve ends. I’d never actually used fold-over elastic before, but thought I’d figure it out easily enough – I attempted to attach it as I would bias binding but it just wasn’t working for me, and somehow I used it all up before I could sort myself out. I was forced to improvise, and instead used a ribbed jersey for the trim. This is definitely a more typical way to get the effect I wanted, but once in a while it’s worth taking a risk, so I’m still glad I gave the elastic a go. Incidentally, the ribbing I used was an off-cut from a previous Minerva make (my black and white Harlequin Top).

Duncan says...

The way you insert the front sleeve into the front bodice is quite different... and I am really impressed with it

Duncan used striped Alike stretch jersey, £22.99 per metre, and Prym Love fold-over elastic trimming tape in red, £2.29 www.minervacrafts.com

I went for a simple zigzag finish on the trim detail. You can’t see it so well on the photos, but there is a slight glitter shimmer to the ribbing.

The jersey was a joy to work with and it took to the twin needle very well. I think that’s going to be my test of a good jersey from now on… does it get on with my twin needle?!

The grey-blue and off-white stripes contrast interestingly with the coral ribbing. The cotton is medium weight, so would work equally well for long-sleeved tops, lightweight hoodies and kids’ clothes. A pair of PJ bottoms would be very comfy in this fabric, too.

Next on my sewing table is a pair of brandspanking-new skinny jeans, so it's time to break out the stretch denim. Until then, happy sewing!

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