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The UK's No.1 sewing mag

r u o y e v Lo wardrobe L Mix and match garments L Adjust for your bust L In-depth fabric advice

Everyday knit

DRESS

EXPERT GUIDES

Couture hems for all skirt styles

THREAD THERAPY

Why sewing is so good for you!

Sizes

6-22 On-trend

TROUSERS

Charming HOME IDEAS

A history of stunning French lace techniques

ISSUE 62 UK £6.99

Inspire Imagine Create

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

See Shauni's trouser s on page 21!

Meet the

TEAM

… to issue 62 of Love Sewing he year has whizzed by and 2019 is on our doorstep. This issue goes on sale the day before my best friend's wedding so it's reassuring that as you read this all the necessary dress sewing is done and I will be able to move onto some non-wedding related projects!

(Preferably avoiding lace for the first half of the year.) This issue is full of fresh ideas for the warmer weather ahead and I can't wait to see what you all make.

T

Master a new skill on page 25!

Our McCall's pattern gift this month is a super stylish but equally essential 4-in-1 trouser pack. We made a fun checked pair and then played with stripe direction to create two versatile pairs of trousers!

Find both versions on page 17 onwards.

Our fabulous reader Shauni made a snuggly flannel pair and matched her top to the side stripe – how fabulous!

You'll love her review on page 21.

m Visit the Fashion Museu Archive on page 14

If you're keen to clear out your stash, we recommend whipping up an oven glove in a bold print, trying our fun appliqué Fancy a cuppa? cushion and you won't be able to resist the selfie purse

Nicola ART EDITOR Nicola is passionate about design and has a sharp eye for detail.

She loves creating new illustrations and takes her inspiration from her home town, Manchester.

See more on her Instagram calico_ creative

Bethany

on page 38. There is a lovely blouse to try on page 25 and a quick jersey skirt on page 88. You won't want to miss our exclusive Liberty project from Alice Caroline on page 84 either!

A personal highlight of the issue is our feature on the lace-making expertise in Normandy. We went behind the scenes to learn the historic art of delicate lace made by hand since the 1600s. Plus you'll want to step back in time and learn about how the team at the Bath Fashion Museum has preserved gorgeous garments for The History of Fashion in 100 Objects exhibition on page 14. With so much to read, I better let you get stuck in.

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks, available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She's excited to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@ lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES 3 Welcome 6 Love Sewing Loves 10 Fabric focus – Dreamy denim Save 20% at WeaverDee 12 This month I’m making 14 Behind the seams with The History of Fashion in 100 Objects 16 In the good books 21 Reader review: McCall’s 7661 28 SUBSCRIBE TODAY 30 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 32 Save 20% on independent patterns at Dragonfly Fabrics 33 A Brief History of French lace-making 40 Swatch Selector with Kerry Green 42 15 mins with Riva Juarez aka Riva la Diva!

44 Machine review 46 Sewing workshops 49 10 fun facts about Tula Pink 53 DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS 57 Shop of the month 58 Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie 61 Stitcher’s story with the Sewing Lab 68 Readers’ makes 70 PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS 74 Support your local sewing shop

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Four on-trend trouser styles

PROJECTS

Pay just £1.13 per week when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 28 for further info

77 Fabric focus – Cosy up to cotton 81 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE 84 Fabric focus – Animal attraction 86 Pattern picks – Spring Forward 90 READER OFFER 92 The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake 94 Sewing room spruce 96 Coming next issue

17 Your McCall’s pattern gift – 4-in-1 trouser multi pack 22 Fancy a cuppa? cushion 25 Float on by tie blouse 38 Show your face selfie bag 50 Room to grow kids' trousers 65 Dress the part jersey tea dress 78 Kiss and make-up pouch 88 Make me today jersey skirt 98 Take the heat oven glove

Find us online

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

/lovesewingmag

98 Editorial Editor Amy Scarr Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Chief Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Sub-Editor Chantelle Salkeld Lead Designer Nicola Vernon-Smith Designer Sher Ree Tai Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

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Publishing & Advertising

44

Head of Sotcrats Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

Distribution Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd Tel 0844 826 0613

Contact 22

Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

Subscription Enquiries Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X

Free-motion embroidery tips!

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All material Š Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereater developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

CONTRIBUTORS Julia Claridge

Fiona Hesford

Julia is the brains behind www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk.

A former fashion designer, she now hosts sewing classes, designs paper patterns for children and runs a wonderful online fabric shop. In this issue Julia shares a fun jersey dress project on page 65.

Fiona is the creative mind behind Sewgirl, a range of patterns and kits for adults and children. Why not make her lovely tie neckline blouse on page 25 or cheeky selfie bag on page 38?

Visit Fiona’s shop at www.sewgirl.co.uk

Riva Juarez

Tula Pink

Riva is a self-confessed fashion junkie based in Seattle, Washington who shares her personal style through fashion tutorials, couture recreations and lifestyle inspiration.

Visit www.rivaladiva.com to discover a wealth of sewing inspiration and ideas and step into her world on page 42.

Tula Pink is an icon of the fabric and quilt world. She has designed over 20 fabric collections, as well as thread collections, needlepoint kits, her own line of sewing tools, and writen several books. Find out 10 fun facts about Tula on page 49 and learn more at www.tulapink.com

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The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

SPOT ON The Kimberly dress is gorgeous and intended for woven, non-stretch fabric.

It has a soft V-neckline and a half-circle skirt with a panel at the bottom.

The views includes different sleeve lengths, optional pockets and a tie belt. With an incredible range of sizes, it really is a flattering garment for all.

Price: PDF pattern, €10.50 (approximately £9.36) at www.athinakakou.com Sizes: 4-28

Viva la frida

A celebration of one of the most important Rebel Artists of the 20th Century, Frida Fiesta is a fittingly bold, bright, and beautiful fabric!

Designed by Caroline Smith, in her Dorset studio, this glorious pattern is digitally printed on 150cm-wide cotton sateen fabric and features large images of Frida Kahlo’s beloved parrots, flamingos, flowers and of course, the artist herself sitting 11cm across by 15cm high. Shop: £15 per metre from www.sewladidavintage.com

† Price and price conversion correct at the time of going to press

BUTTON UP

Show off your love of all things dressmaking with a fabulous fabric button brooch from Honey Pips.

Made using free-hand machine embroidery on a combination of cotton and wool, you can choose your colours to suit your style too! Available now, for £4.75 each at www.notonthehighstreet.com

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Stitchers gonna

STITCH

ANIMAL APPEAL

The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Belgium fabric company Chat Chocolat has launched a new fabric collection with a twist! The All Animals are Equal collection will be available from October this year and aims to shine a spotlight on those critters that are underrepresented or not mainstream. Expect to find brushed sweat fabric and organic cottons featuring sparrows, foxes, poodles and mackerel against a backdrop of warm autumnal colours. To find out more, visit www.chatchocolat.com

Bethany Deputy Editor

FAMILY PORTRAIT Hand stitching offers so many possibilities for personalisation. If you fancy recreating a favourite photo, try the Snap & Stitch uploader at www.dmc.com where you can create a cross stitch chart and select all the threads you need to stitch it from home. How handy is this?

SEEING STAR SIGNS I love a handmade gift and this star sign cross stitch kit has really caught my eye. It includes handdyed galaxy-effect aida, gold thread and a pattern to create a star sign of your choice. Pick up yours for £17.99 at www. notonthehighstreet.com

Shear De l i g h t Discover more on PAGE 94!

The fabric lovers amongst us will know the importance of a beautiful pair of fabric shears. This pinking shears A4 print from www.sewisfaction. co.uk comes with a clear warning! Priced £9 you’ll receive it safely in a board-backed envelope, ready for framing or hanging in your home. If you’re in need of some craftyinspired art to spruce up your sewing room wall, check out our round-up on page 94.

YOURS TRULY What better way to personalise a gift than to use someone’s initials? These DIY embroidery kits feature beautiful floral patterns tied in with your chosen letter and are available for £17.75 at www. miniaturerhino. etsy.com

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That's a

Best made plans

WRAP We love Simplicity 8795, the new multi-garment pattern pack from Simplicity. The chic jacket features contrast collar, tie belt and inseam pockets. While the classic skirt comes in two styles: knee and ankle-length.

We’re imagining a sultry velvet jacket and satin skirt for nights out and a classic houndstooth jacket for looking smart while out and about.

Sizes: 6-14 and 16-24.

Price: Paper pattern £9.50 from www.sewdirect.com

FABRIC FANTASTIC We love the gorgeous range of laminated fabric at Sewing Sanctuary. Whether you’re making homeware, bags or garments, this wipe-clean fabric features exclusive designs and is water resistant! Choose between bold, plain colours, pineapples, florals, cheeky critters and much more. What’s more the bio-laminated fabric, WIN! can be cleaned in a washing machine, making it perfect for messy activities like aprons!

Turn to Shop: Prices start at £7.50 per half metre. See page 53 the full range at www.sewing-sanctuary.com

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Get organised with this gorgeous project planner and stay on top of your new year sewing. This clever planner was designed by Zoe, the creative mind behind the Sewing in the UK Facebook group, and website www.sewingintheuk.com.

Priced £19.50, the A5 planner features a sturdy cover and ring-bound sheets that let you record your measurements, catalogue your stash, track your makes and much more. We love the fold-out sheets that let you sketch your design and record vital construction notes for each project. Pick up the planner at www.sewingintheuk.com

RULE OF THUMB It really pays to have the best tools for the job if you want to achieve professional result and this nifty Clover graph ruler certainly warrants a place in your sewing basket.

Achieve maximum precious when marking up curved shapes and drawing 45° bias lines, the pliable ruler features vivid markers enabling you to read measurements easily, even on darker fabric. It includes the commonly used 10mm-15mm and 12mm parallel lines and the two scales are subdivided into 1mm divisions, allowing you to draw parallel lines accurately. To find out more about the ruler visit www.clover-mfg.com/product/9/646. Clover products are available nationwide from all good craft, sewing and hobby shops. For stockist information, contact Clover mail at clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

BLOOMING

MARVELLOUS

A CUT ABOVE We’re thrilled that the unicorn trend shows no sign of slowing down and we absolutely adore these quirky 4” embroidery scissors from Milward. A far cry from the traditional embroidery snips, these rainbow coloured scissors are sure to brighten up your sewing basket. Milward products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists. For stockist information email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

M Rosenberg & Son have a reputation for stocking gorgeous high-quality fabric and the latest addition to their Stitch Fabrics shop is no different. This embroidered net fabric is a stunning selection of colourful threads which weave together to create a beautiful work of art that you can wear. It would make a gorgeous dress, classic skirt or simple shell top. Embroidered fabric can be treated just like lace with a plain fabric underneath to help the fabric sing.

Shop: £25 per half metre, available from www.stitchfabrics.co.uk

TURN BACK TIME

Animal LOVER Spoil your favourite critter with a pet teepee! This pattern is designed for beginners and comes with a very clear and concise illustrated instructions booklet. Suitable for cats and small dogs, especially those who love curling up in their own little space and it is really cosy for cold winter nights. Choose bold prints to really personalise it to your pet.

Sizes: The pattern has two size options: 50cm squared or 60cm squared.

Price: Paper pattern £7.50, available from www.bearinthehood.co.uk/shop

We’ve fallen head over heels for the gorgeous designs on offer at So Vintage Patterns. Within the huge selection, you’ll find over 500 Vogue Paris Original, Vogue Couturier Design patterns, and Vintage Vogue Designer Patterns! Find thousands of true vintage patterns for the unique styles you won’t find in stores like 1920s Great Gatsby flapper fashions all the way through to the 1990s.

Their specialty is 1940s and 1950s designs so start shopping today!

Shop: www.sewvintage patterns.com

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www.bonmarche.co.uk

SAVE 20% on denim and chambray fabric using the code

LOVE20

*

Find everything you need for your next project by browsing the fabulous range of sewing supplies available at WeaverDee. This familyrun business prides itself on providing impeccable customer service and an extensive range of fabric, haberdashery and sewing machines. Head to www.weaverdee.com and use the code LOVE20* at checkout to save 20% on denim and chambray 22nd December – 31st January.

Head to www.weaverdee.com/collections/denim-chambray to save.

Offer is subject to availability and excludes reverse stretch and aureole fabric.

FABRIC

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2

3

January BLUES

Flaunt some brilliant blues this season using your exclusive 20% discount on denim and chambray at WeaverDee 4

5

6

7

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Fabric shopping Indigo Gloria 4oz denim chambray, £7.98 per metre Indigo mini vines 4oz denim chambray, £7.98 per metre Light blue denim chambray cotton, £7.98 Blue amingos 4oz denim chambray, £7.98 per metre Indigo giraffe 4oz denim chambray, £7.98 per metre Light blue 8oz washed denim, £9.98 per metre Mid blue poly cotton chambray, £3.80 per metre Indigo butteries 4oz denim chambray, £7.98 per metre All fabric from www.weaverdee.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 11

This month 1'm making Ponte dresses are perfect at this time of year.

We love Bianca’s version of Vogue 8825.

See more stylish makes on her blog www.sleeplessinbavaria.com

I

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabric and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily, to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities.

Each blogger's unique kit is available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

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made Vogue 8825 in the most fabulous green Ponte Roma fabric because I wanted to push my skill set and make a classic piece I will reach for again and again.

When the fabric first arrived I thought it was a bit too green for me, but luckily, the wrong side of the fabric is a wonderful dark green shade I fell in love with the moment I first saw it. The pattern refers to itself as 'very easy', something I, as someone who rarely works with jersey, simply refused to believe as my overlocker and I are more enemies than friends. She likes to chew up my fabric or break needles and thread, or just refuses to start at all!

I decided that perhaps we got off on the wrong foot and gave her a spa, new overlocker needles, some oil, and vacuumed all the lint out of the compartment with all the hooks and such. Since then there have been no issues at all.

As McCall Pattern Co. patterns generally run large for me, I sized down and made the dress in a size 12 with no alterations. The fit is really good. The only thing I would change is cutting the length of the cuffs in half. I currently just turn the cuff inwards as the sleeves are too long.

But to be honest it’s a quick fix that I might make in the coming days. I stitched everything on my machine first and finished the raw seams on my overlocker.

The neckline of the dress is lovely with the flattering pleats in the front. The facings are added to pieces that fold inside the bodice and only need

Bianca says...

The way you insert the front sleeve into the front bodice is quite different... and I am really impressed with it

Bianca used English Wool Blend Ponte Roma Jersey in Forest Green, £8.99 per metre; and Vogue 8825, £13.75.

Both from www.minervacrafts.com

to be stitched in place in the back part of the bodice. I chose to do this by hand, as I always worry about wonky topstitching when working with jersey!

I really liked the straightforward construction of the dress the way you insert the front sleeve into the front bodice is quite different from anything I have ever done and I am really impressed with it.

I think it took me about three hours to cut out and sew up and I agree with Vogue, it really is a very easy dress to make up.

Needless to say, I’ve worn this dress to the office already and I see me creating more of these in the near future, made in navy, black and grey!

If you’ve been afraid to work with jersey before, I recommend this pattern and the ponte I used, as it is nice and thick and doesn’t wiggle around while you’re working with it. Time to prep my next version!

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

History of Fashion in

100 OBJECTS Visit the past with a new exhibition of key garments charting fashion history

Black and red wool crêpe appliqué jacket with black sequins, Lucien Lelong, c.1947; and red and black spotted silk ballgown with bows and pufed sleeves, David and Elizabeth Emanuel, c.1982

T

he major exhibition 'A History of Fashion in 100 Objects' is celebrating fashion from the 1600s to the present day at the Fashion Museum, Bath. Showcasing 100 star objects drawn from the Fashion Museum’s world-class collection, these displays give visitors an instant insight into the era-defining outfits and headline pieces that have shaped our wardrobes over the past 400 years.

Fashion touches everyone’s life – it is intrinsically linked to society – and 'A History of Fashion in 100 Objects' references moments in history, as well as more personal stories. Graceful silk robes and embroidered and tailored coats for men, the styles fashionable during Bath’s Georgian heyday are on show, along with Regency fashion from the time of Jane Austen and dresses by the big names of fashion history, including the House of Worth, and Dior.

This piece was chosen as Dress of the Year 2013 by Susanna Lau. The on-the-knee sleeveless dress is embellished with cut-out white machine-made lace panels to which are affixed jewelled roundels, made up of hundreds of tiny pink diamantés. Strips of black duct tape are attached all over the front of the garment – a bold heavy detail against the delicacy, lightness and brightness of the dress.

This collection is 100% worth the visit!

If the shoe fits The exhibition also includes 10 shoe moments throughout history, from Georgian silk shoes to Nike Air trainers, as well as a children’s trail featuring 10 historical fashion looks for kids, from the 1700s to the 2000s.

There are a number of exquisite instances of this craft featuring delicate embroidery, from the ribbed silk lace-up boots with silk floral embroidery from the 1880s; to the cream silk satin court shoes with diamanté embroidery by Ferragamo, worn by Alicia Markova in the 1950s.

The lure of couture The red and black spotted silk ballgown, with bows and puffed sleeves, shown left, was designed

by David and Elizabeth Emanuel, c.1982. Featuring a sweetheart neckline and curved princess seams, it emphasises the waist and bust, just as the volumious skirt and sleeves also play with the proportions of the wearer. The jacket next to it was worn by actress Vivien Leigh!

Sugar pink silk appliqué dress with lace, crystals and black gafer tape. Designed by Christopher Kane, 2013 Pair of woven silk shoes in sage and gold, with blush silk ties and leathercovered wooden clogs. From 1740s

WIN TICKETS ON PAGE 53!

The exhibition also features a stunning sugar pink silk appliqué dress, with lace, crystals and black gaffer tape, designed by Christopher Kane.

FIND OUT MORE All these garment images were reproduced with permission from the Fashion Museum, Bath.

Visit the exhibit in person to see more amazing garments. Ticket prices start at £9 and are available from www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/events/ history-fashion-100-objects

Fashion touches everyone’s life – it is intrinsically linked to society!

Black wool New Look suit, called ‘Daisy’. Christian Dior, worn by Margot Fonteyn, 1947

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BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS

Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books Debbie Shore’s Sewing Room Secrets: Machine Sewing

By Debbie Shore, Search Press, £9.99, on sale 1st January 2019 Hi Debbie, we’re loving Sewing Room Secrets, what inspired you to write it?

This is the first of the series, aimed at giving the beginner sewist, or those coming back to sewing, the confidence to have a go. I explain what to look for in a sewing machine, how they work, what tools and skills are needed, then how to use these skills and techniques to create 10 projects. I speak to many people who haven't sewn for years, and things change!

Not just machines, but fabric, tools and techniques are evolving all the time. I like to explain things simply, with no jargon, so

SEW SMILEY Combine 35 popular emojis to create fun quick-make projects for your home. Sew Emoji by Gailen Runge is ideal for kids, big and small and is filled with beginner-friendly instructions. Pick up yours for £14.99 from www.searchpress.com

anyone can understand the sewing process and hopefully be inspired to have a go.

What’s one of your biggest sewing room secrets?

It's no secret, but allow yourself to make mistakes, it's the best way to learn.

What was your favourite part and also the most challenging part of writing the book?

I've never really given a tour of the area where I actually sew so that was a favourite part, and the most challenging bit was to keep all the information I want to share in one book, thankfully this will be the first of many!

What are your top tips for creating the perfect sewing room?

Make sure your seat is comfortable and at a height that stops you from stooping over the table and use a daylight lamp to see colours clearly to prevent eye strain.

Keep the room tidy – an organised room is a more enjoyable place to work and you'll be able to find everything you need in an instant! My room's not complete without my dog Bobbin to keep me company.

If you could go back in time and give your younger self one piece

FASHION FINESSE Master the art of draping with this fantastic new book from Francesca Sterlacci and Barbara ArataGavere. Draping: Techniques for Beginners provides wonderfully detailed step-by-step tutorials. Available from

7th January, at www.laurenceking.com

of sewing advice what would it be?

Listen to your mum Debbie, she really is an expert!

You had a very busy 2018, what can we look forward to from you for 2019?

There are a few more books in the pipeline, in January I launch the first of a brand new learning series, Debbie Shore's Sewing Room Secrets, followed by Sew Outdoor Living in the summer. I've also designed my second fabric range due out in April, and am working on more! I'm working on new projects for my Half Yard Sewing Club members, it's a new subscription website that brings a unique monthly project along with lots of tips and sewing advice. In January I introduce a block of the month, so hopefully my members will be quilting along with me!

MINI MOTIFS Irem Yazici shares how to create miniature pieces of embroidered art in her book Tiny Stitches. Choose from over 50 motifs to create buttons, badges, pins and more! Find your copy for £12.99 from www.searchpress.com

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Your free

GIFT

Earn your

STRIPES There's nothing like completing a pair of flattering trousers to make you feel like a sewing superhero!

McCall's pattern comes with a helpful step-bystep guide designed to push your sewing skills

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Don't forget, the finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern tissue! We recommend picking your size based on your waist measurement as the hip area on these trousers are designed with a lot of ease built in!

We love!

There are so many e ways to play with th ed side panel! We us contrast stripes

See more fitting tips on page 58

VIEW A We love the oversized bow and cropped length of this view. And it gave us a chance to play with directional stripes!

We used Textured stitched pinstripe stretch suiting, ÂŁ2.99 per metre www.minerva crafts.com

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MASTERCLASS

WOOL VIEW B Lots of sewists are wary of wool because of its tendency to shrink in the wash, but when treated with care, a wool garment can last a lifetime!

We wanted to make a fun checked wool pair of trousers so left of the waist gather for a sleek look

We used: YARN VS WOOL? Although other animals such as alpacas, goats, llamas and even bunny rabbits produce ibre which can be spun and woven or knitted into luxury fabric, it’s only sheep that can make wool! That said, all of these care tips also apply to other animal ibre, including mohair and angora, as they all behave in quite a similar way.

100% wool colourful check fabric, £22 per metre www. fabricsforsale. co.uk

WHY CHOOSE WOOL? Wool is a really unique ibre, which has a wonderful range of properties that sewists can take advantage of. It’s remarkably warm for its weight, so a wool coat needn’t be heavy or bulky. It’s natural, 100% biodegradable and renewable, which makes it a perfect choice for the environmentally-conscious. Wool is also an elastic ibre, meaning that it will shape itself to your body to create a perfect it.

CARING FOR WOOL Modern processing techniques mean that some wool is machine-washable. If your wool is not superwash treated though, don’t worry – it’s still easy to care for. We recommend a no-rinse wool wash such as Soak. After 30 minutes soaking, take out the garment and roll it in a towel to remove excess moisture. Finally, lay your garment out on a lat surface and leave it to dry. It won’t even need ironing!

SAFE STORAGE The worst nightmare for a wool wardrobe is the dreaded clothes moth. Although moths can attack any ibre, wool and animal ibres are their favourites. Clothes moths are only 5-10mm long and pale – if you see them in your house, take action immediately! Pheramone traps and insecticide sprays will catch and kill moths, but preventative action is best. Clean out your cupobards regularly and keep particularly delicate items in Ziploc bags.

Subscribe today to get a

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 28 for details

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eview eader R7661 RMcCall's Shauni Sanderson, blogger behind www.magnificentthread.com reviews this issue’s McCall's pattern gift

I

f it isn't the 'year of the trouser' for everyone else, then it certainly has been for me.

The McCall's 7661 might just be my favourite trouser patterns of the ones I've sewn up - this is my third pair and I’d say they’re the best yet!

The high-waisted trousers are really easy to both put together and wear, with the different views offering a few variations for the legs - either a more voluminous culotte and full length style, or the slimmer, but still fairly loose fitting leg with the option of contrast size panels. I opted for the latter and a tie waist for this pair with View A. I picked a soft, textured charcoal flannel suiting from www. minervacrafts.com priced at £7.99 per metre. I wanted a side panel that popped, so I had lots of colours to choose from with the luxurious Atelier Brunette Viscose Crepe. I chose the 'Tangerine' colourway, priced at £15.99 per metre and also from Minerva. The crepe was a little lighter than I anticipated, so I doubled up my fabric for the side panel. (Eagle-eyed readers may also notice that I managed to squeeze a matching Named Clothing, Reeta shirt from my leftovers too!)

The pattern has a lot of included ease, so I picked my size based on the finished garment measurements for the waist: a size 12, despite my

measurements aligning more closely to the size 14. The fit through the hip is nice and relaxed, and the front is quite heavily gathered into the waistband, so it's really only the waist that needs to fit snugly. A little tip for finding the finished waist measurement: check the waistband pattern pieces closely as you won't find this on the envelope!

The trousers fasten with a centred lapped zipper at the back, but I swapped mine out for an invisible zip as I prefer the method and finish. From wearing my other pairs, I've also found that using a 10" zipper makes them much easier to wiggle on and off than the recommended 9" zipper. Other than that, I made the pattern straight from the envelope with no problems or adjustments!

This pattern is definitely a good introduction for anyone feeling tentative about trouser making, but with plenty of options for the bolder wearer to get creative. The loose fit at the hips makes them both flattering and easy to fit. I love the contrast side panel and can see myself playing with this again for version four, five and maybe more!

In issue 63, Becca Woodward makes McCall's 6891

Say hello to Shauni on Instagram shaunimagnifique www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21

We love HOME

Fancy a

CUPPA? This scrap-friendly project can be varied easily through the choice of fabric and colours Project KAJSA WIKMAN

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 35cm or 1 FQ natural colour linen for background • 35cm or 1 FQ gingham for pillow back • 25cm gingham for tablecloth • 35cm or 1 FQ polka dot for back, teacup & plate • 25cm-square teal print for teapot • scrap of white fabric for inside of teacup • 25cm paper-backed fusible web • black and co-ordinating thread • button for teapot • button for closure on back • 1 skein black embroidery loss • trim or lace for tags • 14”-square cushion pad • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CUTTING: • Cut 1 24.1x36.8cm piece linen for background • Cut 1 25.4x36.8cm piece gingham for back • Cut 1 25.4x36.8cm piece polka dot for back • Cut 1 14x36.8cm piece gingham for tablecloth. (Buy 1/2 yard (50cm) and cut it diagonally to do it my way)

NOTES: Seam allowances are 1/4” unless otherwise noted Finished size is 14” square

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Place the linen and gingham RST and stitch. Press the seam toward the darker fabric.

2 Trace the appliqué patterns onto the paper side of the fusible web. Fuse the web to the WS of the fabric and cut out the shapes.

3 Peel of the paper and position the appliqués on the seamed fabric. Don’t place them too close to the edges

22 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Get in MOTION Doodling with your sewing machine is a great way to personalise your projects and add fine details to your designs.

Here are the essentials You’ll need to locate the feed dog controls on your machine. This is to lower the metal teeth that protrude from the needle plate and feed your fabric under the needle. It is also called the ‘drop feed’ due to the way the teeth drop between stitches. The lever or dial is often hidden from view by the accessories tray but can also be at the back of the free-arm bed.

You are in control of the stitch pattern and can move the fabric in any direction to scribble on top with your needle.

Keep the fabric flat by placing your hands on each side.

If you’re feeling nervous you can trace a design onto tissue paper, layer in on top of your work then trace the lines. Simply rip away the paper once you’re done.

Top tip The teapot design would look great on the front of a halfapron as well!

of the pillow. Press in place.

Thread your sewing machine with black thread.

Sew with a short straight stitch around the edges of the pieces, starting with the piece placed underneath the cup. If you don’t want to try free-motion embroidery (see masterclass, left) just steer your machine gently around each shape.

Stitch the steam coming out of the teacup with three strands of black floss, using a running stitch. Sew a button on top of the teapot.

For the pillow back, make a double 2.5cm fold to the WS, along one of the 36.8cm edges of the gingham fabric.

Press. Do the same for the

dotted fabric. Sew down the folds by top-stitching near the edge.

Make a buttonhole in the centre of the folded edge of the gingham piece.

Stitch the trim or lace tabs to the left side of the pillow.

Place the pillow front face up. Overlap the back pieces, and place them face down on top of the pillow front so that the outside edges are aligned and the piece with the buttonhole is closest to the pillow front. Stitch the pillow front to the backs, and zigzag the raw edges.

Turn the pillow RS out, and sew on the button.

Insert the pillow form to finish.

ABOUT THE BOOK

Make pillows, ÂŁ9.99 (C&T Publishing) www.ctpub.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

We love

STYLE

FLOAT on by This elegant and loose-fitting top with a tie neck and gathered sleeves is easy to make and great for work or evening wear Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

Shopping list Chrysanthemum cotton sateen, ÂŁ5 per half metre www.moresewing.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 25

SIZING: FINISHED SIZES

LENGTH

BUST

8-10

65cm

100cm

Medium

12-14

66.5cm

110cm

Large

16-18

68cm

120cm

Extra large

20-22

69.5cm

130cm

Small

LAYPLAN:

FOLD

SELVEDGES

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

SLEEVE

facing

• Sizes S and M – 1.3m-wide fabric or sizes L and XL – 1.4m of 150cmwide fabric • 10cm lightweight fusible interfacing • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Use a 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated Use medium-weight fabric with drape.

For day wear: linen, cotton lawn, chambray or viscose. For evening wear: Crêpe de chine, satin, peachskin

BACK

FRONT

HOW TO MAKE: 1 On the front piece, sew the darts as shown on the pattern.

26 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A

B

C

D

E

F

9 Fold ‘tie end’ sections Press the dart downwards. of tape widthways, RST. Stay-stitch around the front Pin then stitch 1cm all and back neck edges. along the tape and across 2 Finish the raw outer the short end. edge of the Trim the seam interfaced neck allowance and facing piece. turn RS out.

(See Pic A.) This will Mark the This roomy blouse can be iddly! centre front be worn over jeans or Press, (CF) line on then handthe reverse tucked into a skirt, just stitch the side of choose the size with the binding on the facing. right amount the inside, 3 Pin the of ease around the neck front facing edge. (See Pic D.) piece to the CF at Sew the front to back the front neck edge RST. at sides RST. Finish the Using the facing pattern piece raw edges and press as a guide, sew two lines of towards the back. stitching 5mm away from Finish the raw side the centre line each side and edges of the sleeves. across 5mm below the dot.

Sew a line of the long 4 Trim down the centre line length stitches at the to the dot then clip into the sleeve cuf edge and pull corners at each side as shown threads to gather. (See on the template. (See Pic B.) Pic E.) Sew the sleeve 5 Turn the facing to the long sides RST. inside. Press the aligning Press the seams open. seam to the folded edge.

Fold over one long Ease out the lower end gently side of cuf piece by 1cm. and press to remove all the Sew the short sides of puckering. Tack-stitch the the cuf piece RST. Press facing at neck edge to hold seam open. Pin, tack, in place. sew unfolded edge to the 6 Join the front to the back gathered cuf edge RST. at the shoulder seams with (See Pic F.) RST. Finish the raw edges.

Press seam towards Press the seam to the back. the cuf. Press folded Top-stitch the shoulder edge of cuf to WS and seam on RS. pin, aligning to previous 7 Place a pin at the halfway stitching and enclosing point of the bias tape. Line up raw edges. Hand-stitch all to the centre back (CB) at the around. (See Pic G.) neck edge. Pin, tack-stitch Pin, tack and sew the one opened side of the bias sleeve head to the armhole, tape to the neck raw edge aligning the notches. Finish RST, extending the tape to the raw edges. Press. each side for the ties.

Hem the lower edge 8 Sew 1cm seam allowance of the top to inish! Why around the neck. Press tape not do this by hand as over to reverse. Pin to hold. well? (See Pic H.) (See Pic C.)

Top tip

G

MASTERCLASS

SLIPPERY SILK Why not try making this blouse out of a lovely satin or washed silk fabric with our tips?

1 Make a toile (test garment) from an inexpensive polyester before you cut into special material.

2 Wash or dry clean your silk fabric before starting to work with them.

3 Use a new, universal, Sharps or Microtex needle, size 9/60-10/70. Larger size needles can leave holes or cause the seams to gather slightly as you sew. Blunt needles can snag the fabric and cause runs.

4 Use a ‘with nap’ layout when cutting out fabric that has a sheen to them to ensure any shading is the same way up throughout (ie lay all pieces head to toe in the same direction.

5 Use sew-in interfacing for stability. If you do use a fusible interfacing, use a press cloth to avoid glue marks on your garment.

6 For transparent chifons and voiles, use another layer or two of the fashion

fabric or sheer organza as the interfacing to add the support and stability without spoiling the transparency of the fabric.

7 When pressing, use a silk setting on the iron and always use a press cloth.

If possible, press from the WS. 8 Prevent the fabric shifting and sliding around by laying the fabric on an old sheet or cardboard cutting board.

9 If possible use dressmaking shears that have a ine serrated edge on the blades – the serrated edge holds slippery fabric in place as you cut, making them ideal for ine fabrics, silks, satins etc.

Avoid using marking pens that may ‘bleed’ into the fabric or washaway pens on fabric that are dry-clean only. Instead, use ine chalk markers on the wrong side of the fabric or thread, tracing to transfer marks.

H

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 27

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Ahead of the

CURVE ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

Lovely full skirts and curved hems are fantastic but there are a few steps to make the finish perfect! Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company Wendy Gardiner provides her top tips PREPARING YOUR HEM General hemming tips Whatever type of garment you are making, there are some general tips that will help make hems hang better.

1. Let a garment hang for 24 hours before hemming to allow the fabric to settle and drop. This is particularly important for full skirted garments where some seams are cut on the bias or for knit and loosely woven fabric.

2. The hem allowance that is required or preferred for a garment will depend on the garment type. Straight dresses, skirts and coats need a wider hem allowance of 5-7.5cm whilst flared and A-line hems tend to be narrower, at 1.5-5cm.

3. Enlist a friend if possible and measure from the floor up to the required finished hem length. Wear appropriate shoes to ensure the back and front are even.

4. To mark the finished hemline, place the pins horizontally or mark with chalk, then place pins at right angles to hold the hem allowance in place.

5. Trim the hem allowance even if necessary (ie if side seams have drooped).

6. Always try garments on again when hem is pinned in place before stitching, again wearing the appropriate shoes.

Easing in a curved hemline Having hung the garment for 24 hours, mark the hem line as detailed above and then trim the hem allowance evenly so that it is just 1.5-3cm.

Retro dresses are often made with circular skirts that are best sewn with narrow hems (Butterick 5748)

30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Neaten the raw edge on fabric that frays by overlocking, or zigzag-stitch. Fabric that doesn’t fray such as knits and fleece don’t need neatening.

Because the garment is A-line or very full, it has a curved hem which means there is extra fullness that needs to be eased in, to prevent ridges and folds at the hem. To do this, first ease the stitch (using a long stitch length of 5mm) about 6mm from the neatened hem edge.

Turn up the hem allowance so that the stitching is on the inside of the garment, matching the side seams, centre the front and centre back and then gently pull up the bobbin thread slightly with a pin to gather the excess, spreading it evenly and pin in place.

Using an overlocker You can also ease in the fullness with an overlocker on a circular or full skirted hems.

To do so, tighten the needle tensions slightly.

Then, working on the edge of the right side of the fabric, overlock for about 10cm whilst holding your finger behind the foot so the fabric piles up. Repeat the fabric and repeat around the hem. The hem allowance will automatically roll towards the garment.

Top tip!

A narrow rolled hem is perfect for garments where the underside also shows.

Rolled hem feet come in different widths to suit your needs

Working on a flat surface, pin the hem allowance up, distributing the fullness evenly and matching side seams etc. Steampress to shrink out some of the fullness.

Use a twin needle on stretch fabric to create a ‘shop bought’ finish to your hem (Butterick 6054)

HEM FINISHES Double hemming It is not necessary to neaten the raw edge with this method, but you still need to ease in the fullness when working on a curved hem as detailed above. Fold up the hem allowance, easing in fullness, then fold the raw edge under again so it meets the first fold and is encased. Blind-hem or top-stitch in place.

Top-stitched hem Topstitching simply means the stitching shows on the right side of the garment. You can neaten the raw edge, ease-stitch and then turn up the narrow hem allowance just once so the ease stitching is on the inside of the garment as above and then simply stitch from the right side. Or make a double hem, working from the right side and stitch in place. Either of these options is suitable for lightweight fabric and casual clothes. Stretch knit fabric and fleece can be folded once.

On heavier weight fabrics, fold up the hem allowance then tuck the raw edge under 1cm rather than making a double hem. Again top-stitch close to inner fold, working from the right side.

Cover-stitch copy To create a hem stitch that looks like a cover stitch (two parallel rows of stitching so often seen on ready-to-wear garments) use a twin needle with 3-4mm gap between the needles.

Loosen the tension on the top threads a little and sew from the right side so the two rows of parallel stitching are visible on the right side of the garment and on the underside the bobbin thread swings between the two top threads, creating a zigzag effect.

Rolled hem If possible, use a rolled hem presser foot where the fabric is fed and rolled as it is stitched. If not, mark the hem length required and then trim the hem allowance to just 13mm. Fold up the 6mm hem allowance and very lightly press. Stitch as close to the fold as possible then trim away any excess hem allowance. Fold the hem again along the stitching, rolling the stitches just inside the hem and stitch again close to inner fold.

Leather/suede hems Avoid stitching leather and suede which can be left unfinished. To make sure the hem line is neat, use a rotary cutter/mat to cut at the hemline. If you wish to turn up the hem, reduce the hem allowance to 15mm and then turn up. Keep in place with fusible hemming web by placing web between layers, cover with a press cloth and press with a mediumhot dry iron.

Linings Finish with a double-turned top stitch hem, making sure the lining is shorter than the main garment by about 2cm.

Not all curved hems are on full skirts, this shirt dress has curved sides so needs the same treatment (McCall's 6885)

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 31

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF

A brief history of

FRENCH LACE Discover the stunning history of the Normandy lace-making region of Orne – the techniques are so unique they are protected by UNESCO for their intangible cultural heritage to humanity www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 33

uring the summer, the Love Sewing team visited Orne in Normandy to discover the very special technique for entirely handmade lace, produced without a break since the 17th century. Two key museums share the story of the royal court’s obsession with having the most exquisite lace. The twinned museums showcase glorious examples from the two major styles – Alençon and Argentan lace – and regularly collaborate on joint exhibitions and events.

D

LACE FRENZY At the Museum of Fine Arts and Lace in Alençon we learnt the origins of the appetite for lace during the 17th Century.

The lace-industry of Orne was created out of an incredible surge in demand during the reign of King Louis XIV. Not only was there a fashion to take note of, but the wearing of lace was actually required during certain seasons; the etiquette rules created measures for wearing needle lace in winter and bobbin lace in summer.

With national production of lace insufficient to meet the demand, people started shopping abroad for Venetian lace; a needle lace with a remarkable workmanship that was very high quality and embellished with gothic ornamental motifs. Alice Blain-Desormiers, our extremely knowledgeable English guide at the museum, explained the passion for the Italian lace was so strong that all manners of outrageous behaviour ensued; some sold their lands and prized goods just to acquire cuffs, collars and jabots (frills worn at the neckline).

Strangely at first, the fashion of wearing lace was at first exclusively masculine. The customers were from the high society, aristocracy and high clergy.

Women soon followed with outrageously tall headpieces, extremely long mantilla and palettes, plus layers upon layers of trims and ruffles, using any way they could to showcase the fortune of the family.

This is an exceptional piece showing the depth and relief of the motifs, delicate picot edging and connective bars within the design

Fresco by visual artist NeSpoon added in the spring of 2018. Photo: Oliver Heron, Communications Director, City of Alençon

Finally, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, the chancellor of the exchequer decided to contain this loss of capital from France. He introduced sumptuary laws prohibiting the import and the wearing of lace and braids but it was of no use, the import abroad continued, and it cost a fortune. So, Colbert’s decision was to create the luxury items within the national territory.

7 to 15 hours are required for the equivalent of a postage stamp-sized motif!

34 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

THE BIRTH OF FRENCH LACE

Circa 1650, every hamlet had within it lace makers employed to create only one stage of the work. The master lacemaker would travel around re-distributing the lace to continue it along its construction. This way he controlled the expertise, the salaries and the final sale price; an enviable position to have.

Discover extravagant lace garments at the Maison des Dentelles in Argentan

It was Madame La Perriere, the wife of a lace master, who was renowned for carefully studying the Venetian lace examples and was able to determine a method for producing a very similar result, and also divided the labour in a more efficient manner.

In 1665 Colbert granted the privilege to establish a royal lace workshop in Alençon, utilising the techniques introduced by Mrs La Perriere and they created lace that, while at first imitated the Venetian workmanship, soon achieved such technical perfection to so high a level that it surpassed Italian lace. With its innovative net-like background, it had a fineness of rendering that meant it obtained immediate success in Versailles and in all the European Courts and was soon known as ‘Queen of lace’.

TIMES CHANGE But trends have their setbacks and the French Revolution struck a blow

Artistic drawing for the lace needle, directed by Benedicte Laviec-Leclervq in 2018 (48 hours of work).

Commissioned by the Museum of Fine Arts and Lace, Alençon. Photo: David Commenchal

between the two styles. The application of each background is not enough to separate them as different techniques.

MAISON DES DENTELLES The Lace House in Argentan invites visitors to discover the heritage of the lace area with stunning examples of Argentan lace.

Located in the heart of a park with a lovely lake and tall leafy trees, this museum keeps and displays nearly three-hundred years of lace, with various techniques and origins across two floors of exhibitions. There are stunning garments.

The beautiful background net of Alençon lace is made of fine interlinking loops that connect the various motifs

ARGENTAN NEEDLE LACE The portrait of a young lacemaker

by Latouche. Exhausted by her day job working in the field, she has fallen asleep on evening lace commission

seriously to many enterprises. Napoleon I temporarily favoured its re-establishment with the etiquette rules of the time.

Then between 1840–1880, the industrial and World Fairs showcased incredible manufacturing advancements resulting in London lace being crowned ‘Queen of lace’.

It wasn’t until the 1930s, when the chamber of commerce established a new lace school and training continued until 1953, until the school had to close. Somehow the teachings continued thanks to small donations and grants until finally the official label was awarded by UNESCO in 2010 to inscribe the art form on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

The town of Argentan lies in the same lace-making area of Normandy as Alençon, and its products were for some time accidentally referred to as Alençon lace. However, technical differences, particularly in the background mesh, were distinguishable by 1724 and the two styles began to be recognised in their own right.

Examples of work with a background of small reinforced bars connecting large and small motifs began to be called Argentan lace and the laces with fine equally-sized background net, Alençon lace; this was because both lace cities became specialised in the different kind of stitches. But as commissions may have been ordered with a specific type of background representations of both styles were present until the beginning of the 19th century. This means distinctions can be made between the different shapes of lace but we cannot fully know their site of production. It’s important to note that many stages are common

We spoke to the Director of the Lace House Michaël Herbulot about his plans for the museum. Whilst the Alencon museum has a strong focus on the historic context to the lace production, the Lace House has the ambition to be draw attention to art, modern techniques and fashion as well.

Every year, a rich programming is offered with contemporary exhibitions, animations, workshops and more. During our visit we saw a captivating exhibition where a local artist had used the gestures of lace making to weave thought-provoking sculptures out of wire that were inspired by nature; and in April and May 2019 Australian textile artist Diana Brennan will be exhibiting at the museum. The Lace House offers ancient artworks and hand-making techniques, but with contemporary inspiration too.

CONTINUING TRADITIONS The know-how of Point d’Alençon was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity

by Unesco on November 16, 2010. Each piece cannot be reproduced identically, giving it its preciousness. Made only by hand, with a needle and cotton or linen

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35

THE LACE IN 10 STEPS Alençon lace requires no less than 10 steps are required. Below is a brief summary of the complex method: 1 Drawing: an artistic drawing represents the intracacies of the lace. Then a technical drawing takes the outline and contours.

2 Stitching: a temporary support of parchment – sheepskin tinted green – is perforated with the key outline of the design.

3 Tracing: the perforated parchment is secured to two layers of canvas and the drawing is then traced in basting stitch.

4 The network: in creating the tulle-like mesh background, it must be perfectly even in size across the work.

5 Filling: the meshes are more or less spaced and create solid areas, in the form of foliage, lowers, volutes etc.

6 Fashions: the outer edges of the motifs are embellished. It is worked on many axes and angles, with simple curls, double curls or a mixture, and horsehair is used for tensioning.

7 Embroidery: Simple stars or knots are added inside the lace on top of the trace lines. A tiny studded picot embroidery outline is then added with white horsehair woven into each stitch permanently.

8 Lifting: the lace is removed from its parchment using a razor blade to cut the basted tracing stitches.

9 Trimming: with tweezers, the lacemaker removes the thread ends.

thread, the Point d’Alençon requires an exceptional technique and no machine can reproduce it.

To master the techniques, or gestures as they are also known, takes 7-10 years of learning and each work can take a very long time to execute fully: 7-15 hours are required for the equivalent of a postage stamp!

Miss Lefebvre, Director of the National Conservatory Workshop, describes it best: “A certain maturity is necessary, I think, to measure up and say to oneself: I don’t wish an immediate result and to measure up to bear all the diiculty of the gestures of creation of Alençon lace requires, because it is the gesture that makes everything.”

In the final stage, the lacemaker polishes the work with a lobster’s claw to add definition and relief

The truly unique part of Alençon lace is the subtle background to each piece, which looks almost like tulle with perfectly even stitches woven in an interlinking pattern of loops.

Larger motifs are created with the tulle stitch surrounding them and delicate embroidery is then added on top for deinition and depth. Created on a green parchment base, the lace must be carefully removed from its mount once complete. The extreme amounts of time spent on each piece, means safely removing the work is a big responsibility.

Alençon and Argentan lace side by side Note the looped background above and the bars below

Today, seven lace makers based at the National Conservatory Workshop of Lace and Embroidery in Alençon perpetuates the 400-year-old art of ine lace making.

FIND OUT MORE Brittany Ferries operates the longer routes from Portsmouth, Poole and Plymouth direct to Brittany and Normandy. We travelled from Portsmouth to Caen and back.

On this route, fares start from £85 each way for a car plus two people. Book online at www.brittany-ferries.co.uk or call 0330 159 7000.

To plan your visit to the Maison des Dentelles Lace House and discover more about Argentan lace, visit www.argentan.fr/ maison-des-dentelles And to discover the stunning Museum of Fine Arts and Lace in Alençon visit www. museedentelle.cu-alencon.fr Discover more about the Orne region using the Orne Tourism website, www.normandytravel.co.uk

Gurgling: the lacemaker polishes the work with a lobster’s claw. This gives relief and inishes the piece of lace.

36 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Rutland Sewing Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QN Tel 01572 756468 www.rutlandsewing.co.uk Ample free parking Very close to Picturesque Rutland Water Coffee shop on site Classes and Workshops Also Training for Sewing machines, Pfaff embroidery machines and Premier Plus Software & all makes of Overlockers

Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am – 5pm Sunday 10am – 4pm Closed Mondays

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 37

We love BAGS

Show your

FACE

MATERIALS & TOOLS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

25x150cm Pellon Flex-foam 30cm-square beige felt 30x75cm tweedy fabric (hair) 25x75cm medium-weight fusible interfacing 30x75cm spotty cotton fabric (lining) 30cm zip or continuous zipping 1.5m cotton webbing in black (25mm) 2 D rings felt flower (or cut from template out of pink felt) small button (10mm) 12x5cm patterned ditsy floral pattern cotton (top) 5x3cm pink felt (lips) 4x6cm beige felt (cheeks) 2x5cm black felt (eyes) pink felt (flower) 20cm bonding web beige embroidery thread darning foot attachment invisible marker pen 2 reels of black machine thread 10 quilter's clips (optional) walking foot attachment (optional) templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CUTTING • Template (1): cut two pieces in foam interfacing, one piece in beige felt, one piece in tweed, two pieces in lining fabric • Template (2): cut two pieces in tweed and two pieces in lining fabric • Template (3): cut one piece in foam interfacing, one piece in tweed and one in lining. Fuse the foam interfacing to the WS of the outer piece • Template (4): cut in tweed and bonding web • Templates (5-9): cut from fabric scraps and bonding web • Template (10): cut one in tweed

NOTES A 1cm seam allowance has been used

38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Self portrait photos are the theme for this fun circle bag. The appliqué motifs can be cut from scraps from your stash!

Project designed by FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

A

B C

D

E F

throughout, unless otherwise stated Finished size approximately 21cm in diameter

HOW TO MAKE: FRONT 1 Take the outer bag piece (1) in beige felt. Fuse the mediumweight interfacing to the WS. 2 Place the appliqué hair cutout shape in position and fuse to ix. Holding the piece up to the light, trace of the face details, chin, nose and eyes with an invisible marking pen. Fuse the other appliqué pieces in position (eyes, mouth and top).

3 With the darning foot in the machine, feed dog lowered and two reels of black thread

in the needle, stitch around the outline of the hair, nose, eyes and mouth detail. Make lines to accentuate the hair. (See Pic A.) 4 Hand-stitch the cheeks to the background using a running stitch. (See Pic B.) 5 Attach the felt lower in the hair as shown on the template with a button at the centre.

are stitched, fuse the foam interfacing to the WS of the front and back face pieces.

8 Lay one lining piece on top of the foam side of both front and back, RS outermost.

Machine-tack around the outside edge. Finish the raw outer edge with a zigzag stitch. Press.

INSERTING THE ZIPPER 9 With the zip longer in length BACK than the upper band pieces (2), 6 Fuse interfacing (not ensure the zip pull is positioned foam) to the outer tweed piece at the far end overhang section (1), machine-embroider the of the zip. Stitch the zip into hair detail as shown on the the long sides of the outer template (see masterclass on pieces (2) RST. Now stitch lining to the other page 23) 7 When all your face features side of zip RST. (See Pic C.) Press lat with fabric WST. (front) and hair details (back)

Top tip

The little lady appliqué would look lovely scaled down on a coin purse for a co-ordinating project

Top-stitch on RS. Machinetack the outer long sides.

Push the zip pull into the bag section.

Sew the upper band piece to the lower band outer piece (with interfacing) at the short ends RST. Repeat with lining on other side of seam. Trim off the excess zip. (See pics D & E.)

Pin the lower band lining and outer strip together along long edges. Machine-tack to hold. Finish the raw outer edges of the band ‘ring’ piece.

SEWING THE BAG TOGETHER Make your two tabs. Fold over the tab piece (10) 1cm each side long ways. Stitch down each side. Cut in

Fiona says...

Use your favourite scraps or vintage fabric to customise your lady's face!

half so you have two pieces approximately 2x10cm.

Insert one piece into the D ring and fold the fabric over so the raw edges align WST. Repeat for other piece and D ring.

Before sewing your bag together, pin your tabs at each side, 1cm approximately below the join of the lower band and upper band with the D ring loop hanging downwards.

Sew across the fabric 1cm from raw edge. Trim the raw edge to 5mm. Fold the fabric and ring upwards and sew across tab fabric again, encasing the raw edge.

Pin or clip (with quilter's clips) the front bag outer

piece with the band piece RST, aligning the centre of the zip to the centre top of the face.

Tack-stitch by hand. Repeat for back piece and other side of band.

Machine-stitch all around with a 1cm seam allowance.

Remove tacking. (See Pic F.) Turn the bag inside out, push out the seam edges. Press.

Insert the handle webbing into D ring leaving approximately 3cm folded over.

Sew across with a small zigzag stitch to secure.

Sew in any loose ends.

Repeat for the other far end of the webbing and D ring adjusting the length as required. Ta-da you're finished!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39

SWATCH SELECTOR

s m a e r d r u o Technicol Inject some colour into your new year’s sewing with a veritable feast of vibrant fabric

ABOUT

Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerry’s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk

o welcome the new year, I’ve chosen a big blast of supersaturated colour. Inspired by Giuseppe Ribaudo’s (aka Giucy Giuce) new Quantum collection with its bright colours and geometric lines, I’ve chosen a selection with modern quilting and sewing projects in mind. This fabric can be used alone, but will look even better together with a ‘more-is-more’ approach. Moda’s new Gradients range adds drama, and the combination of stripes with graduated colours provides the potential for creative cutting. Tula Pink and Libs Elliott are both modern designers who truly understand how their fabric can be maximised in quilts. The Essex linen adds shade and a subtle sparkle. This is also fabric that lends itself to structured clothing as well as crafty makes.

T

I’ve chosen one of my own quilt blocks, Ray of Light, to complement the swatch selection.

It’s foundation paper-pieced and comes with a step-by-step photo tutorial: www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/foundation-piecing-part-2

1

2

3

4

8

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7

6

5

Shopping list Gradients – Fragmented Stripe Blues Greens from Moda, £3.75 per long quarter www.fabrichq.co.uk Akoma Geo Grid Fuchsia Metallic 3 by Rashida Coleman-Hale for Cotton and Steel, £4 per FQ www.fabrichq.co.uk Zuma High Tide Glowfish

by Tula Pink for Free Spirit, ÂŁ3.75 per FQ www. oliveandflohandcraft.co.uk Quantum Petri Tangelo by Giucy Giuce for Andover, ÂŁ3 per FQ www.plushaddict.co.uk Quantum Interconnection Acetone by Giucy Giuce for Andover, ÂŁ3 per FQ www.plushaddict.co.uk Quantum Polaris Jade by Giucy Giuce for Andover, ÂŁ3 per FQ www.plushaddict.co.uk Mixtape Come On Over in Sapphire by Libs Elliott for Andover, ÂŁ3.50 per FQ www.exetersewing.co.uk Essex Yarn Dyed Linen Metallic Navy from Robert Kaufman, ÂŁ4.20 per FQ www.eternalmaker.com

SAVE 20% & FREE P&P OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER - ON ALL FABRICS WITH CODE: LS62 In order to take advantage of this exclusive ofer just go to www.fabricsforsale.co.uk to see beautiful premium and designer fabrics for clothing, upholstery and craft projects and use the exclusive code to save now. Be quick this ofer expires 27th January 2019.

All things fabric...where happiness is handmade

Zebra Stripes or Dalmatian Spots Freehand Machine Embroidery Workshop

Linens, Jerseys, Cottons, Canvas, Viscose & more

19th January 2019

Call 07815053716 or book your space at www.artseacraftsea.com

For dressmaking, crafts and interiors www.bobbobbobbin.co.uk E: info@ bobbobbobbin.co.uk T: 01803 313992 (for telephone orders)

Atelier Saint Clare

Manchester - Liverpool

www.ecolesaintclare.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41

15 MINUTES WITH...

Diary of a DIVA This month, we catch up with Riva Juarez, aka Riva la Diva, to learn all about her designer inspirations and what catwalk styles she can’t wait to put her home-sewn stamp on a very early age. I loved the different stories/ adventures she would take in my youth – she obviously needed to dress up for wherever she was going! I would also say old movies, I loved the elevated everyday style of the 1950s – give or take a decade or two. Nowadays, I feel like we don’t give that much effort to our wardrobes.

Riva iva shares her passion for fashion on her popular blog, recreating catwalk looks in her own signature style. We chatted to Riva to discover what she loves about sewing her own on-trend wardrobe and where she finds her sartorial inspiration.

R

Hi Riva! How are you today? What are you working on at the moment?

Hello! Well, I’m currently freezing here in Seattle, Washington and getting over a bad case of the flu! I may disappear from emails and my smartphone, but that never slows me down in the creative process! I’m currently working on a purple wool coat inspired by Pantone’s Colour of the Year, Ultra Violet. Some people sleep and rest when they are sick, I shut my doors and hide out in my sewing office.

Find Riva's bow tie skirt tutorial at www.rivaladiva.com

42 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

You’re known for your chic outfits, inspired by designer creations.

What sparked your love of fashion?

Barbie! She was my fashion muse at

Where are your favourite places to look to for style inspiration? Do you have a favourite designer?

Besides old movies, I enjoy getting inspired by flipping through fashion magazines. Since traveling to Europe last year, I am obsessed with European magazines – the way they are styled and edited are appealing to me. My husband travels for work a lot and I always ask him to bring back a few fashion magazines from wherever he’s working in the world. I haven’t opened up an American Vogue in a long time!

Designer wise, I’m currently drawn to Delpozo, Alice and Olivia, and Dolce & Gabbana. I love their bold use of colours, textiles and excess!

If you could recreate one iconic outfit, what would it be and why?

There’s the most glorious gingham skirt and blouse ensemble that Katherine Hepburn wears in the movie, The Philadelphia Story. I need to sew that, wear it and basically never take it off.

It took my breath away when I saw it for the first time – it’s so amazing!

What’s your favourite garment you’ve ever sewn and why?

This might sound odd, but all my sewn garments are favourites for the first week and are then quickly forgotten with the next project. It also makes me wonder if I should challenge myself more. I did recreate a Balenciaga dress when I first started blogging, the pictures were terrible.

ABOUT RIVA LA JUAREZ Riva is a self-confessed fashion junkie based in Seattle, Washington. Riva has been blogging for five years, sharing her personal style through fashion tutorials, couture recreations and beauty and lifestyle inspiration. Visit www.rivaladiva.com to discover a wealth of sewing tips and ideas Riva isn't afraid to mix and match her prints

I’m a fan of working with natural fibre because it is easier to work with and feels nice on the skin

I had a baby less than a year old, and it took me days to hand-sew so many little lace flowers. I ended up selling it on Etsy and so the dress was never enjoyed by me – it was the one that got away!

If you could only sew with one fabric, what would you choose and why?

In the past, I’ve always been a big fan of knits – they are forgiving.

However, over the last several years, I’ve been a fan of working with natural fibre because it is easier to work with and feels nice on the skin. A silk satin is easier to work with than a polyester satin. Wool is softer than a wool/acetate blend. I also find that natural fibre is easier to manipulate than synthetics.

Riva takes inspiration from the AW2017 Michael Kors collection

What do you love most about sharing your creations online?

It allows me to have a creative outlet.

I feel like I can tell a story about who I want to be and where I’m going with the outfit I’ve sewn.

Finally, what exciting plans (or designer-inspired garments!) have you got planned for 2019 that you’d like to share?

It’s cold for 10 months of the year here in Seattle, and so I definitely have more spring-inspired coats for the next sewing season. I grew up in Las Vegas, Nevada and I have always lived in the desert heat. Now that I live in a colder climate, I understand why a lot of designers have spring coats in the collections. I also want to push out a few patterns of my own. It would be fun to wear and share tutorials of my own creations!

Riva, rocking her best cocktail dress! www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 43

MACHINE

REVIEW

This month, Love Sewing shines a spotlight of some of the innovative machines designed by Toyota. Find out more at www.gb.homesewing.com/en_gb

BEST FOR BEGINNERS ECO 26A If you’re just starting out on your sewing journey, the Toyota ECO26A is a great machine to help you whip up a variety of makes. The machine’s simple and ergonomically friendly design enables sewists to take advantage of the various stitches on offer and adjust them with ease. There are 26 stitch programs covering the most popular utility stitches as well as ample workspace and a clear needle drop point.

Beginners will benefit from the various program indicators etched onto the body of the machine as well as the quick bobbin winding system and easy-to-use stitch and tension controllers. Additionally, the machine’s light 5kg weight makes this a great sewing companion to take along to classes.

Lorna

R UNDE

£200

BEST FOR DENIM LOVERS SUPER JEANS 26XL Meet denim’s new best friend, Toyota’s Super Jeans 26XL machine. Built for those who like to don their denims, this machine features a special gliding foot specifically designed to glide over 12 layers of fabric, ideal when sewing jean hems or working with thick materials. There are 26 stitches to choose from and you can easily feed thicker thread through the machine and edit the settings via the large dials. The machine comes with two standard needles, two jeans needles and a ball point needle as standard, so it can harmonise with a variety of fabric. Plus, if you’re attending classes, the machine is easy to carry, weighing just 5.2kg.

Bethany

R UNDE

£300

BEST FOR EMBROIDERY OEKAKI RENAISSANCE Not only does this machine look sleek and stylish but it showcases some fantastic design modifications from Toyota.

The new Oekaki expands the possibilities of free-motion embroidery allowing the user to control the stitch by adjusting the pressure on the foot control. It is fully computerised and boasts easy computer-regulated functions giving you maximum efficacy and precision. There are 50 stitch variations including straight stitch, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, decorative stitch and three buttonhole styles.

Sewists will also appreciate a quick and easy set up thanks to the drop feed system and automatic needle threader.

Amy

ND AROU

£400

44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Request your free fabric catalogue today!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45

workshops 12TH & 13TH JANUARY Sew your own jeans

COTTON REEL STUDIO Middlesbrough Cotton Reel Studio now offers a variety of workshops through the TeesCreatives studio based in the heart of Middlesbrough. This beautiful, vibrant workspace is the perfect place to unleash your creativity. A huge variety of workshops are planned for 2019. info@teescreatives.co.uk www.teescreatives.co.uk

THIMBLESTITCH AT ZOE’S Honiton, Devon Thimblestitch has a dedicated workshop area as well as an extensive choice of materials, thread and equipment for sale.

01404 549871 www.thimblestitch-devon.co.uk

Perfect for experienced sewists who wish to take their skills further in making a pair of jeans. This two-day sewing course will guide you through new techniques that are specific to the construction of jeans. Join this stepby-step class to create your very first pair of handmade jeans based on your own body measurements.

Cost: £150

19TH JANUARY Beginners dressmaking – make a dress in a day In this one-day dressmaking workshop with Laura you will make a Cleo dungaree dress. It is suitable for those who have previous experience of setting up a sewing machine and making some simple projects (e.g. cushions and tote bags). You will learn how to read a pattern, cut and stabilise fabric, and sew buttonholes.

Cost: £79

15TH JANUARY Introduction to curved English paper piecing Join Louisa for some mindful stitching and learn the hand-sewing technique of curved English paper piecing. This workshop is suitable for beginners.

Cost: £25

19TH JANUARY Experimental rusting with Adele Thomas In this workshop, you will paint fabric and thread with rust and ink made from bark, leaves and flowers.

You will be amazed at the possibilities!

Cost: £40

26TH JANUARY Textile art robin with Angela Knapp Learn techniques including choosing an image and suitable fabric, breaking an image back to a simple pattern and stitching details on the robin and backing fabric.

Cost: £40

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Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

20TH & 28TH JANUARY Introduction to overlockers Overlockers can be scary at first, but with expert guidance from Jen they needn’t be. You will learn how to set up your machine and obtain the correct tension. You will also learn various techniques to get the most from this versatile piece of equipment.

Cost: £42

9TH FEBRUARY Slow-stitch book wrap with Paula Simpson Be creative in the designing and making of a book wrap, through the simple and mindful process of adding hand stitch onto a collage of natural fabrics.

Cost: £40

ESCAPE & CREATE St Ives, Cambridgeshire Escape & Create has just been voted Retailer of the Year in the Hunts Business Awards. This shop is making its mark.

With a stunning modern interior, knowledgeable, friendly staff and superb tutors, it is creating a fabulous support network for those that sew. It has just started to sell online too!

01480 300092 hello@escapeandcreate.co.uk www.esacpeandcreate.co.uk

troubleshooting techniques and make a lovely cushion and useful sewing tools.

Cost: £100

23RD JANUARY Make PJs in a day On our one-day Learn to Sew course you’ll be making pyjama bottoms.

Suitable for complete beginners or those new to dressmaking, learn how to adjust a pattern and construct a garment. It’s great fun!

Cost: £70

10TH JANUARY

26TH JANUARY

Bag-making course

Sewing with stretch

In this six-week course you will learn all the rudiments of bagmaking, from which interfacings and hardware to use through to sewing with vinyl and faux leather. You will make at least three bags including the Swoon Ethel.

Cost: £72

A one-day workshop to learn how to handle stretch fabric. Choose the Coco or Agnes pattern from Tilly & the Buttons or Burda 6910 or 6608 to give you the skills and techniques so that you can expand your wardrobe in super-quick time.

Cost: £65

techniques on this course, plus how to work out how much fabric you need, including sashing and borders and how to quilt and bind. It is a fabulous introduction to patchwork and quilting.

Cost: £64

23RD & 24TH FEBRUARY Jeans bootcamp Spend a weekend making either the Ginger or Morgan Jeans and master getting those jeans to fit. You’ll learn all the techniques involved too, such as front fly so if you have been making clothes for a while but have been a little daunted by jeans or trouser-making then this is just for you.

Cost: £130

17TH JANUARY Learn to sew course This is one of our most popular courses.

Over four weeks you will learn all about your sewing machine, some great

THE SEWCIAL STUDIO Tamworth, Staffordshire The Sewcial Studio is a friendly, social sewing studio packed with beautiful hand-picked dress fabric, ideal for making the ultimate handmade wardrobe; and quilting fabric for the patchworker and crafter, complimented

by Prym haberdashery. The studio is run by Amanda Wyatt, guest designer on TV’s Sewing Quarter.

01827 288344 www.thesewcialstudio.co.uk

4TH OR 6TH FEBRUARY Sampler quilt – eight-week course We cover six different patchwork

6TH JANUARY Introduction to machine sewing This is an ideal workshop for beginners, designed for you to get to grips with the basics of sewing. You will develop new skills and techniques by producing a beautiful envelope cushion. You’re bound to leave feeling confident in using a sewing machine, have top tips to hand and ready to tackle your next project!

Cost: £45

13TH JANUARY Get to know your overlocker

6TH JANUARY – 10TH FEBRUARY Winter coat making Over five consecutive Monday evenings, techniques in coat construction will be covered, including sewing straight seams, setting in sleeves, attaching a collar or hood, inserting facings and lining and ultimately producing the fabulous Cascade Duffle Coat from Grainline Studio.

Cost: £160

Tame your beast and learn to maximise your overlocker. This fantastic day covers when to use four or three threads, stitch length, stitch width and demystifies the differential feed. Navigate curves and corners, rolled hems and much more.

Cost: £60

bag for beginner bagmakers. It has one slip pocket, two zip pockets and fun detailing on the handle, as well as a removable, adjustable strap. Perfect for everyday use and trips out! The finished dimensions are 14x111⁄2x 5" Cost: £57.50

26TH JANUARY Hudson pants Don’t we all just love pulling on a pair of trackie bottoms at the end of the day or weekend? The Hudson is a modern take on the classic sweatpants, with front pockets, an elastic waist, drawstring tie and cuffed ankles. The urban fit leaves a bit of extra room around the hips and tapers to a skinny leg.

Cost: £70

19TH JANUARY Fiesta tote bag The Fiesta Tote from Mrs H is the perfect

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 47

Dressmaking Patterns Keeping You Up To Date With Catwalk Trends Use Code LOVESEW at checkout to get 10% OFF

www.trendpatterns.co.uk

To advertise please contact Noune on 0161 474 6997 or email noune.sarkissian@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

48 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

15 MINUTES WITH...

TULA Pink We caught up with Tula, fabric designer and author to find out all about her love of cold drinks, wish to keep any form of plant alive and a few other surprising secrets Let's get cooking!

I love cilantro (coriander to you guys in the UK) and will put it on almost anything, much to the dismay of my friends and family.

I wish I could ditch my camera I hate taking pictures, I would much rather draw an apple than photograph one.

Tula I'm pretty competitive I have a black belt in Tang Soo Do and was a competitive fighter as a teenager.

School wasn't for me I nearly failed high school and went on to graduate second in my class in college (don't worry mums, there is hope, some of us grow out of it).

I wish I had green ďŹ ngers All of my designs are centred on plants and animals but I don't have either in my home, I can't keep anything alive, be it cactus or goldfish.

I love my quiet time I have reclusive tendencies. If the whole world outside my home and studio disappeared it would probably take me three months, until I ran out of food, to realise it.

What age are you?

I think everyone I meet is my exact same age whether they are 12 or 60. I can never seem to tell the difference!

Buffy is my home girl My favourite TV show is Buffy The Vampire Slayer – I am watching it while I write this.

Cool beverages only please I don't like hot drinks. I might be the only person in the Midwest that orders an iced latte at Starbucks in the middle of winter.

I'm secretly quite shy For the first three years of designing fabric, I didn't put a photo of me on anything because I didn't want anyone to know who I was.

ABOUT

Tula Pink Tula Pink is an icon of the fabric and quilt world. She has designed over 20 fabric collections, as well as thread collections, needlepoint kits, her own line of sewing tools, and has written several books.

Find out more about Tula at www.tulapink.com

We love KIDS

Room to GROW These pull-on trousers are great for the little ones in your life and can be customised with fun-print pockets!

Project EMMA HARDY

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A

B

MASTERCLASS

EASY ELASTIC

C

E

MATERIALS & TOOLS: 56x36� (142x90cm) main fabric scraps of fabric for pockets & tie 26� (65cm) bias binding 23� (58cm) of ½�-wide (13mm-wide) elastic • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk • • • •

NOTES: This patterns comes in three sizes for ages 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5 years Take 1⠄2� (1cm) seam allowances throughout, unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE: Using the pattern pieces, cut out two front and two back pieces, making sure that there are two left and two right leg pieces. Overlock or zigzag stitch along the outer edges of each piece.

With RST, pin and machine-

D

F

stitch the left front and back pieces together along the outer edge, and then the inner leg. (See Pic A.) Repeat with the right leg pieces. Press the seams open.

Turn one leg RS out and slip it inside the other leg so that the RS are together. Pin together, aligning the inner and outer seams on both legs, and machine stitch around the crotch. (See Pic B.) Trim the seam allowance to Ÿ� (5mm) and overlock or zigzag stitch around it.

Turn over 3⠄8� (1cm) and then another 3⠄4� (2cm) to the WS along the top edge. Pin and machine stitch close to the bottom fold, leaving an opening of about 1� (2.5cm) at the back. (See Pic C. This forms the channel for the elastic.) Press.

Make sure you've left a large enough gap to easily work with.

Attach a small safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through to the other end. Take care not to twist the elastic as your go.

Pull it all the way through and overlap the ends of your elastic, then secure with a few strong stitches.

Hand-stitch the opening closed, making sure to sew through the elastic at the end to secure it.

Cut two 5½x4ž� (14x12cm) rectangles of pocket fabric.

Cut two pieces of bias binding the width of the pockets. Pin and machine stitch one strip across the top of each pocket.

Tie a small bow from bias binding and hand stitch it onto the middle of the pocket top.

(See Pic D.) Press over by 3⠄8� (1cm) to the WS along the remaining three pocket sides, taking care to make neat corners.

Pin and top-stitch the pockets onto the front of the trousers. (See Pic E.) To make the tie, cut an 18x1½� (45x4cm) strip of the pocket fabric and fold it in half along the length. Fold over 3⠄8�

(1cm) at each short end. Fold each long side of the strip in to the centre, press, pin and top-stitch all around.

Thread the elastic through the waist channel, secure the elastic, and machine stitch the opening closed. (See Pic F.) Check the length of the trousers and hem by press up 3⠄8� (1cm) and then another

ž� (2cm) to the inside. Press, pin, and machine stitch in place, stitching as close to the last fold as possible.

Hand-stitch the tie from the previous step onto the front, below the elastic to complete.

ABOUT THE BOOK

Making children's clothes

by Emma Hardy, ÂŁ12.99 (CICO Books)

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Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items.

Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com

www.rooftopfabrics.com

NE!

NLI O G N I L L E OW S

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Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

WIN a pair of tickets to the Fashion Museum We have 10 pairs of tickets to give away to the magnificent Fashion Museum in Bath. Full of history, the museum showcases an impressive spectrum of world-class dress collections enabling visitors to learn about a range of historic and contemporary designs. Take a turn around the extraordinary A History of Fashion in 100 Objects exhibition which delves into the sartorial shifts of the past 400 years. Focusing on 100 star objects from the museum’s world-class collection, this exhibit celebrates fashion as far back as the 1600s – from ornate Georgian silk shoes to the definitive Nike Air trainers. This is an ongoing exhibition and one that is definitely worth a visit! Other exciting exhibits taking place include Royal Women (until 28th April 2019) and Dress of the Year 2018 (until December 2019). For more information, visit www.fashionmuseum.co.uk For your chance to win this fabulous prize, visit www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/competitions and enter your details in the competitions form.

Winner will be notified by email. Competition only open to UK residents and travel is not included.

10 pairs to win!

Turn over for many more discounts & pri zes www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 53

WIN A BUNDLE OF FABRIC

FROM MINERVA CRAFTS!

We have a real treat for you this month – the lovely team at Minerva Crafts is offering one very lucky reader a bundle of its latest dressmaking fabric. Minerva Crafts is a veritable treasure trove of crafting goodies stocking a plethora of gorgeous fabric to suit a variety of projects, as well as a fantastic selection of marketleading sewing tools and haberdashery. Head over to www.minervacrafts.com to browse the extensive selection of products on offer and find dressmaking inspiration and tutorials.

Worth

Exclusive discounts SAVE 20% on denims and chambrays at WeaverDee with the code LOVE20. Visit www.weaverdee.com before the 31st January to save.

SAVE 20% on the digital and printed Ness skirt pattern from Tilly and the Buttons using the code NESS20. Visit www.tillyandthebuttonsworkshops. com before the 31st January to save.

£150!

Fabric will vary from those shown, total RRP will be £150

WIN A BUNDLE OF HEMLINE PLASTIC SNAPS AND PLIERS

5 to win

Mix up the fastenings on your garments with these colourful plastic snaps from Hemline! These small but mighty fasteners work a treat on all types of applications including fashion garments, accessories and soft furnishings. They are also washable and won’t rust! To help you apply your snaps, we’re throwing in Hemline snap pliers which are specially designed to work effectively with the snaps. Test first on a scrap of fabric to ensure snap size suits fabric weight. For further ideas and inspiration visit the You Tube Channel – www.youtube.com/user/Hemlineinternational. Hemline products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists.

For stockist information email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Worth over £65! a pack of Gütermann rayon 40 machine embroidery thread We have three packs of the new Rayon 40 machine embroidery thread packs from Gütermann to give away to three lucky readers!

These 100% viscose, colourfast threads are particularly suitable for fine, decorative machine embroidery and washable up to 95° so they’re ideal if you’re embellishing garments and home accessories.

There is a beautiful catalogue of 260 shades in the Rayon 40 machine embroidery thread collection and we have one Sunrise, Candy and Paradise pack to give away! For stockist information contact; Gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk or telephone 01453 883581

54 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

WIN a Kate Broughton notebook Every sewist needs a bit of sewingthemed stationery and these quirky notebooks from Kate Broughton certainly fit the bill.

These A5 48-page notebooks feature plain off-white paper inside so they’re ideal if you want to jot down notes or collate your sewing sketches in one place. The lovely sewing-themed drawings on the cover would also make this a great gift for a crafty friend.

To see more products, visit www.katebroughton.co.uk

5 to win

WIN A COPY OF DEBBIE SHORE'S SEWING ROOM SECRETS

Take some tips from sewist extraordinaire, Debbie Shore as she guides you through every aspect of machine sewing in her informative new book. We have six copies of Debbie Shore's Sewing Room Secrets: Machine Sewing (Search Press, £9.99), the perfect reference to keep to hand in your sewing room. Debbie’s book includes 10 useful projects to help boost your sewing confidence and hone key techniques.

You’ll learn how to optimise various materials and tools from different fabric to interfacing so that you can guarantee every project will be a success and executed to a high standard. To find out more about this title and others, visit www.searchpress.com

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SHOP OF THE

THE FABBADASHERY Halifax If you’re looking for a fabulous range of fabric and workshops in a friendly and relaxed setting, The Fabbadashery is the ideal place to visit.

We find out more from owner Chrissy Hi there! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today?

We have two quilting classes each day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, so our days are usually busy.

Tell us a bit about how you came to own your shop Halifax was built on our textile heritage, with our beloved Piece Hall at the centre of the town, but we didn’t have a fabric shop for many miles around! We opened our doors in July 2013, running on hope and adrenaline, and it’s been a total joy ever since.

Have you had any particularly memorable moments with customers in store?

We have such fantastic customers that almost every day is memorable, and we

Graham & Chrissy

recently had a surprise visit from Lt Colonel Neil Stace, known as ‘The Sewing Soldier’ who was on The Sewing Bee a couple of years ago. Also, a few weeks ago a lady came into the shop to show us a quilt she had recently inherited and it took our breath away.

The quilt was made in 1829, by a lady who was 79 at the time, and everything about it was absolutely exquisite. The stitching was perfect, the fabric was amazing and the condition of it was remarkable considering its great age.

We are hoping to exhibit the quilt next year for all our customers to see.

What sets you apart from other shops?

We are one of the very rare places where you can learn patchwork quilting by hand. We have nine classes each week and start by teaching how to make a lovely lap-size sampler quilt.

It’s such a great achievement when our customers finish their first one – knowing every stitch has been done themselves.

Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about?

Our latest project is incredibly exciting!

Our head quilting tutor Kathryn Whittingham, has created a glorious cottage garden quilt, and we are on track to publish a book with the pattern in the springtime. It will be very comprehensive, showing each and every step, including how to do basic embroidery and hand quilting – watch this space!

Visit us!

THE FABBADASHERY 10-12 Clare Road Halifax HX1 2HX 01422 647574 hello@thefabbadashery.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 57

ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie shares her top tricks for fitting trousers

T

rousers are possibly the fitting nemesis for both DIY dressmakers and the fashion industry. The problem with trousers is that there are so many curves to contend with. There are sideways curves from the waist to the hips and then down the leg, plus there are outward curves from waist to hip, at the bum and tummy, and those pesky crotch curves going from the front to the back of

the body which you can’t really see properly when fitting; they seem to provide most of the fitting wrinkles and embarrassing moments when fitting with a friend.

can’t assess leg length or whether or not the legs fit well around thighs and calves.

3. Hip width: this will define how I suggest tackling trouser fitting when you have already successfully fitted a bodice and a skirt, and are you’re familiar with fundamental fit processes and your own body shape.

Now, I can’t believe I’m going to share pictures of my curvaceous middle-aged body in a sewing magazine, but I thought some of my own fit experiments early in my masters course might help you.

the legs hang below the hip, so it’s important to do this next.

4. Thigh width: if you have welldefined muscles on the front thigh, you may find trousers too tight here, or if you have full outer thighs this may also affect how trousers hang.

5. Calf width: Just like the thigh width, think about what kind of fit you'll need for ease of movement.

6. Leg length: It’s a good idea to adjust

PICK A PATTERN I started with a trouser block based on my hip size, graded up a size or two at the waist. You might start with a Palmer Plestch fitting pattern like this one McCall’s 6901 that offers helpful tips throughout construction and good range of sizes.

This is a good fitting order to get you started:

Top tip!

Wrinkles/draglines generally point to areas of tightness and pooling fabric indicates too much length

58 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

1. Waist: everything hangs from here so it’s the first thing to get right.

2. Crotch depth: this is often called rise or crotch height. If this is too high or too low, you

your paper pattern before cutting if you are tall/short so you’re not fitting swatches of fabric or not enough fabric in the length.

I removed all the stylistic features like the slash pockets, fly front, and so on, so I could really see the fit without being muddled with pocket openings etc. I sewed up a toile in a firm cheap cotton, and tried on the toile (without a fitting waistband since they were so large) It’s generally a really good idea to add an interfaced waistband for fitting, as the top of trousers can stretch out, then may not fit later when the waistband is added.

FIRST FIT The trousers were way to large both at the hips and the leg, so my fit buddy set about making these a better shape.

skill focus SPECIAL Since the only area that really fitted me was the waist, we started by addressing the excess fabric at the back of my legs. I have a rather flat seat, so the excess was pinned as a long tuck into a more flattering shape.

The inside leg seam was also pinned in to remove the excess. (See above right photos.)

Here’s how to adjust a pattern for a full seat and opposite it, adjusting a flat seat.

Back

Full seat

Back

Full seat

Next the excess crotch length was assessed.

I know I have a short rise (crotch) which was confirmed as the toile was too long in the body for me. This was pinned out above my crotch line, rather than pinching through the inside leg.

Here’s how you can simply adjust the rise of your trouser pattern:

B

Crotch line

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier.

We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

Adjusting front and back rise At this stage of the fitting, the side seams were assessed. Due to the alterations at the back, the seam no longer hung perfectly straight so a ruler was used to draw a new stitch line. It’s important to take a step back and look at how seams hang when you make big adjustments like I did. I also marked a good pocket position, and a marked up where to move darts to as they weren’t in a great position. (See right.)

The final step was to pin the hem at my chosen length.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 59

skill focus SPECIAL SECOND TOILE With so many pattern adjustments, I needed a second toile to refine the fit. For my second toile I attached a waistband and inserted the pockets so I could see if they altered fit.

I pressed the grainline into the front and back of the legs to see if it hung correctly having adjusted the back so much. But there were drag lines pointed to my tummy, which indicated I needed a little more width here and there was some pooling at the crotch point indicating that I could shorten the crotch depth a little more. I actually noticed drag lines towards the knee from my hip, so I took out a wedge shape rather than a parallel adjustment and this helped re-align the grain.

Follow these instructions to add more width at the front seam for a full abdomen: draw the following two red lines and extend grain line up to waist. Slash along the top hip line and then up at a diagonal to the waistline but not through it. Now slash the grainline above this, again leaving a hinge. Spread apart to increasing both height and width along the centre front crotch seam.

hipline

crotch depth line

Adjusting for full abdomen Whilst the back leg shape looked a lot better, there was still more fabric there than I wanted and drag lines below my bottom.

Please note you will never get rid of all these draglines in a woven trouser. You need some extra length here in order to be able to bend your legs! I pinned out a fish-eye wedge below the seat and re-pinned the excess at the back as before.

Overlap line C along crotch seam by 1.5cm, tapering to zero at lower end and then overlap the waistline end of line b by 0.5cm or ¼” again to zero at lower edge.

Now overlap the upper part of pattern along the horizontal line, matching up the outer edges. Once reassembled true up the grainline.

For these adjustments draw three lines on your back pattern piece – through the dart, below the crotch point and on an angle through the rise. Cut along the horizontal line separating pattern, then cut through lines A and B, leaving a hinge at the bottom.

In the final toile I created a back princess seam separating the back piece into two.

This was inspired by a pair of McQueen trousers we examined and it enables great fit on the back leg for both flat seaters like me and those with more junk in the trunk too!

Top tip!

B C A

60 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

When the rise is too short, the waistline will dip down, and you may get the appearance of ‘camel toe’. This also feels pretty uncomfortable!

BEHIND THE SEAMS

The

SEWING LAB Jane Hitch is a woman on a mission. We find out how her career as a sewing tutor has not only enriched her own life, but through her charitable endeavours, has helped develop creative skills in others

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 61

Hi Jane, how are you today? What’s on your sewing table at the minute?

On my table is some work for the local school, bears being made from its old school uniforms. I also have some fabulous Hungarian linen for making the new altar cloths for our village church and some bookmarks to match.

Can you tell us a little bit about yourself? When did you first realise you were hooked on sewing?

I was given a Jones VS sewing machine for my fifth birthday with a box that my mother had made from a large fruit box that she had papered and divided into sections for cotton, fabric, buttons, thread and lace.

I still have it, you would have to pry that from my hands, although I have many more machines, now ranging from an historic Moldacot all the way up to computerised embroidery sewing machines. I genuinely have a passion for sewing, its history and more modern techniques as well – much to my husband’s chagrin. Sometimes, I have to hide them!

I graduated with a PhD in Pharmacology in 1996 and taught Bristol Medical School for 10 years until 2015. I worked for a Silicon Valley company but I was then diagnosed with breast cancer. Therefore I began to teach sewing because I didn’t want to sit at home doing nothing, so I can honestly say that setting up The Sewing Lab contributed to my recovery as I did so many other things and it made sure that I didn’t focus on my illness. I never thought that I would be running my own business and even my own website this time four years ago.

What are your favourite items/garment to sew and why?

I love working with what some people consider ‘challenging fabric’ such as stretch and Lycra. Most people are unaware of the stretch stitches and twin-needle sewing that you can do with a standard lockstitch machine but what really interests me is to teach overlocking. Sadly, so many people are discouraged from using an overlocker and also don’t realise the amount of other techniques and feet that can be used.

I also really enjoy making teddy bears. It requires a different type of sewing and even when using the same pattern, no bear ever looks the same. I love that unique aspect of making a project your own and the wow factor children or adults see when you turn out an arm, foot or head and you can see the bear coming to life. This is most lovely with

62 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

younger sewists and I let them have free range to go through the fabric stash and find the fabric they want for their ideal bear in their favourite colours or to match their bedroom.

You also teach sewing for Leonard Cheshire Disability.

Can you tell us a little bit about how you work together?

St Anthony’s was founded by Leonard Cheshire, a World War II veteran who earned a Victoria Cross, and his wife Sue Ryder who was one of the founders of the hospice movement – a truly inspirational couple who have both changed many people’s lives.

I started talking to St Anthony’s last year and we had some get-toknow-you sessions with people that were interested and talked The team sews using hand-crank about possible projects we could sewing machines try. St Anthony’s has residents with a variety of disabilities. As they are all in wheelchairs, I spent some time for the noticeboards. It is hard work to do collecting and renovating the old handall of the preparation but I have such a great crank machines that are unfortunately time that it doesn’t feel like a job, it just feels so often thrown away and skipped. This like I am sewing with my new friends. meant that the sewing group could use the hand-sewing machines. It is so nice to see the machines be repurposed.

What prompted you to get involved with the charity and what do you do?

I was asked by the activities manager at St Anthony’s, to help with costumes for its biannual show. She thought that we could create a sewing class for the residents who wanted to sew. As this facility isn’t usually available in most residential homes, we were treading very new ground, which was scary but exciting. Head management at Leonard Cheshire have been very interested in what we are doing and might roll this out into other homes, which is fantastic. We are looking at creating a how-to manual that could be implemented over other sites so residents there can have the same experience.

What do you enjoy most about sewing with the residents?

We have a rich variety of personalities.

Every week we have three ladies and two men who attend. We also have several other residents that just come to watch. For those that can’t sew we make presents for their parents and friends so that they still feel a part of the group. Every week we take pictures of the finished items and they are put on the internal website or printed out

I never thought that I would be running my own business and even my own website this time four years ago

Have there been any really memorable residents you have taught?

They are all amazing and I am humbled by the way that they all cope with their disabilities and make the most of their abilities with confidence and humour – it reinforces that it is more important to look at abilities and not focus on disabilities, be they physical or mental.

What are some adaptations that can be made to ensure those with restricted mobility can keep up their sewing hobby?

The most important aspect is needle threading at St Anthony’s. I do most of this but for those that are less mobility restricted, the push-through needle threaders rather than the pullback old fashioned metal ones are a joy.

This can be important with the older Singer and Jones machines as they go from left to right and angling your head and arm around the machine or moving it is difficult for those who are more restricted.

Older machines have bobbin winders with a rubber wheel, which can slip or the rubber can perish so I would encourage buying a standalone bobbin winder or making sure that sewists pre-wind bobbins before a class as this means that a bobbin can be changed within a minute without having to rethread the machine. My top tip is to buy a bobbin tray and pre-wind bobbins in common colours in advance.

The biggest challenge is to find ways that we can sew using fabric that doesn't need too much preparation such as non-fray fabric, to alleviate the use of overlockers. When using cotton, we make sure that all edges are internal. This has been brilliant for the aprons we have made as even the laundry services at St Anthony’s have commented on the robustness of the design and how they have held up in the industrial machines.

Do you have any tips for anyone considering volunteering their sewing skills to teach others?

It’s a challenge mentally and creatively as it requires a different way of thinking about sewing. For example, some sewists might struggle to hold the fabric, or might grip it too much, which distorts it as it goes through the needle and feed dog. How do you make sure the fabric is guided in a straight line or deal with pins if sewists can’t take them out? It is all doable with the right preparation!

When starting, get to know your class first and have a couple of visits. Make some samples, but most importantly ask what the participants want to do, rather than imposing your ideas, while giving them input to what is realistic. Sometimes the requests may be overly ambitious so keep the projects simple to start with, but don’t be afraid to experiment – my class next week are starting on teddy bears and I can’t wait for that. It is hard work, but the rewards are immeasurable.

Do you have any exciting plans with the charity next year?

So glad you asked that question – we have started making a range of cushions, aprons, wash bags and mobile phone covers that participants will sell based on the projects that they have done (each year St Anthony's has a show). Using my embroidery machine, we have taken a handprint of all of my sewists, digitised it so we can embroider it with each sewist’s handprint and a ‘Made by [name]’ with different logos. They are all so excited by what we have done recently. The residents now feel that they are contributing to their own sewing club and making a difference, which I’m sure will help their self-confidence and self-esteem. In December, Mark and Clive from the class are going to be in charge of the stall and the raffle tickets.

Finally, do you have any sewing resolutions for 2019?

I have to be organised with my fabric because I love teaching such a varied number of classes and styles and I end up with so many bits and bobs. Whilst it is great to have a such a stash, I need to organise them! I would also like to do more with the computer side of embroidery and push my digital skills into creating my own free standing lace patterns.

Clive, Andrew and Mark using the embroidery machine

Rani, Mandy and Clive with their handmade cushions

FIND OUT MORE To explore the courses and workshops Jane ofers, visit www. thesewinglab.co.uk. For more information about volunteering or supporting Leonard Cheshire, visit www.leonardcheshire.org

Amy says...

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in the fun!

We love

STYLE

DRESS the part

This cosy jersey dress is inspired by vintage tea dress silhouettes and is great with boots and tights Project JULIA CLARIDGE Bobbins & Buttons

Shopping list Tricot navy/yellow cactus jersey, ÂŁ16 per metre www.fabrichq.co.uk

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 65

A

B

C

D

E

F

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.3m 140cm-wide jersey with at least 50% stretch • ball-point needle • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

thread the machine with 4 threads.

If you are using a regular sewing machine ensure you have the machine set up with a ball point or stretch needle. Use a narrow zigzag stitch or stretch stitch A 1cm seam allowance is used throughout unless otherwise stated

NOTES: HOW TO MAKE:

This is an ideal project to sew together using an overlocker.

If you are using an overlocker,

1 With RST, join short edges of neck band and sleeve bands. (See Pic A.)

SIZING: LAYPLAN:

321/2"

24"

341/2"

S (8-10)

331/2-35"

25-26"

351/2-361/2"

M (12-14)

37-39"

271/2-29"

38-40"

L (16-18)

41-43"

31-33"

42-44"

XL (20-22)

45-47"

35-37"

46-48"

XXL (24)

50"

40"

51"

66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

FOLD

Neck Band

XS (6)

Lower Front

HIP

Back

WAIST

Upper Front

BUST

Sleeve

60"-wide fabric BODY MEASUREMENTS

G

H

I

J

is evenly distributed. Stitch.

(See Pic F.) 7 Stitch two rows of gather stitches between the notches on the sleeve head and two rows on the cuf edge. With RST, stitch the front and back bodice pieces together at the shoulder seams. With RST, pin the sleeve along the armhole, drawing the gather threads up for the sleeve to it the armhole. Stitch. (See Pic G.) 8 With RST, join underarm seam, continuing down the side seam to the hem edge.

(See Pic H.)

K

2 Stitch two rows of gather stitches at the lower edge of the upper front on each side between the notches. (See Pic B.) 3 Draw the gather threads up to gather slightly. With RST, pin the upper front panel to the lower front panel. Adjust the gathers to it the lower front panel, checking they are even on both sides. With RST, join the centre back seam. (See Pic C.) 4 Fold the neckband in half and mark with a small snip, pin or chalk mark. (Mark both edges). Fold again to ind the quarter points and mark.

Do the same with the neck edge, starting at one shoulder seam gently pull the neckline to ind the halfway point and mark. Bring this point and the original shoulder seam together to ind the quarter points. (See Pic D.) 5 Fold the neck band so that raw edges match and the

Top tip!

Why not try using stablising tape on the hem before stitching. This thin interfacing is designed for jersey fabric

quarter marks match. With RST, starting at the shoulder seam, match this to the seam of the neckband. Pin the folded neckband with raw edges matched to the neck edge at each quarter point.

The neckband will be smaller than the neck edge. (See Pic E.) 6 The neckband needs to be stretched between each quarter point to it the neck edge. It sometimes helps to tack the neckband on before sewing to ensure all raw edges are matched and the stretch

9 Fold the cuf bands in half widthways. Mark the halfway point from the underarm seam to the centre of sleeve.

Mark the halfway point on the cuf band. In the same way as the neckband, pin the cuf bands to the cuf edge at the halfway points (starting with the underarm seam and cuf band seam matched). Draw the gather stitches up to it. Stitch. (See pics I & J. Turn a 2.5cm single-turned hem at the lower edge. You can stitch with a zigzag stitch or twin needle. Stitch in place to inish! (See Pic K.)

READERS'

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Lorna asked you on Facebook…

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS!

Would you rather use tiled patterns or A0 copy shop patterns?

Star make

A Tiled, 20% B A0 copy shop, 80%

Madeleine

Charlotte We love Charlotte’s version of the Simple Sew Grace Dress that was an exclusive pattern with issue 30 of Love Sewing. This is such a versatile pattern that you can adapt for any season.

“I love this new top made with a free Simple Sew pattern from @lovesewingmag issue 48. Quick and easy to sew. I can't wait to wear it – even if it is 3°C outside!

I have a thing for all things yellow/ mustard at the moment and this fabric came from a warehouse selling remnants. A great find.”

A 20%

B 80%

You said...

Caroline: Definitely large scale-copy shop prints, tiled small sheets never quite line up!

Dani How fabulous is this jacket sent in from Dani? She has used a pattern featured in Love Sewing issue 59. The fabulous fabric is the See You at Six – Wellies Citadel Blue French Terry from Lamazi Fabrics.

68 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Catherine We love the fabric Catherine has chosen for her Simple Sew pattern that came with issue 25 of Love Sewing, she said: “I left the zipper out so it pulls on and off. I used a vintage linen tablecloth and sequin fabric from Ditto Fabrics in Brighton.”

Gemma: I actually like A4 tiles – it's a faff to stick together but once done it folds up nice and small.

Jessica: I use PDF because I can instantly print with my home computer and assemble - no waiting or paying extra for A0 printing.

The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: info@franknutt.co.uk

Three ways to buy - online

by telephone

or visit the shop

Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice.

Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration.

We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines.

Creative free-machine embroidery workshops with Claire Muir.

We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display.

We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops.

Free customer car park.

www.franknutt.co.uk

The Sewing Barn stock a range of beautiful high quality fabrics, Lewis & Irene, Michael Miller, Riley Blake etc. Sewing accessories and books.

A variety of sewing workshops are listed on our website.

A warm, helpful, friendly welcome guaranteed.

Plenty of free parking!

Home Farm Studios. Nr, Ashbourne, Derbyshire, DE6 3AY 01335 360211 carol@the-sewingbarn.co.uk www.the-sewingbarn.co.uk

We have a Great selection of Patchwork fabrics, templates, Books, haberdashery Unique quilt pattern designed by Quilters Dream Workshops and courses for all levels Free advice anytime we can also bring our shop to your group Coaches and Groups are welcome

Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

We are on the First Floor (stair and ramp access plus stair lift)

UPSTAIRS at Units 403-407, The Commercial Centre, Picket Piece, Andover SP11 6RU t: 01264 324420/e: info@quiltersdream.co.uk www.quiltersdream.co.uk Open Tue-Fri 9.30-17.00 Sat 9.30-16.00

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Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie

READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the end-of-stitching line, as set out in the instructions. Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE Each line relates to diferent size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better it.

GRAINLINE The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly. The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-inished edges) of the fabric.

PLACE ON FOLD LINE This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment. Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE) DARTS Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

NOTCHES Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance. This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly. Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used.

Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)

These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will it on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a loral-print top with all the lowers upside down.

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST.

LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved it.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK) Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT 5 Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33”

38”

High bust measurement

32”

35”

Diference

1”

3”

Adjustment

1/2” SBA = half the diference

11/2” FBA = half the diference

6 Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position.

7 Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

9 The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level.

1 Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

2 Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) 1 Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment.

This is essentially the same process in reverse.

3 From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

2 Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount.

3 The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

4 Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

B

C

D

E

1

1

1

2

2

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can easily do this yourself.

NARROW BACK (FIGS A-C) B

C

A

8 Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. You’ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D)

A

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

apex

2

1 Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point.

2 Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small ¼” adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills.

3 Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) 4 You’ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder.

lap

3

3

BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E)

3

D

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

E

A

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90˚ to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.

LENGTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90˚ to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper.

A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line.

To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

1 Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

B

2 Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a ¼-½” adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together.

3 Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) 4 This time you’ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned.

Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole. Check that you’ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

ESSENTIAL STITCH SETTINGS Zigzag finish

Pinking shears finish

(WS)

Topstitched finish

(WS)

(WS)

French seam

Overlocker finish

first seam allowance

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

(WS)

Hong Kong finish

bias tape

stitch seam allowance only

fold over then stitch in the ditch

ULTIMATE EMBROIDERY GUIDE BACKSTITCH

FEATHER STITCH

BLANKET STITCH

COUCH STITCH

CROSS STITCH

FISHBONE STITCH

FRENCH KNOTS

B

B

C A

F

A

E

D

K G

I

J

H

LADDER STITCH

LONG AND SHORT STITCH

RUNNING STITCH

SATIN STITCH

STRAIGHT STITCH AKA SEED STITCH

SPLIT STITCH

A

B 1 2

3 D

C

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BARNSLEY

BEVERLEY

BEXLEY HEATH

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will ind exactly what you are looking for.

Bernina and Janome stockists

Visit us in store or online to see our range of Dress Fabrics, Patchwork Fabrics from Makower, Moda, Riley Blake and many more, plus knitting yarn and haberdashery.

19 Badminton Road Downend Bristol BS16 6BB

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

CHESHIRE

CHELTHENHAM

BRISTOL

Tel. 0117 329 3857 www.fabrics-plus.co.uk info@fabrics-plus.co.uk

CLITHEROE

DUMFRIES Romy's Sewing Rooms

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com

For all your haberdashery needs.

Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

Bernina - Janome - Horn Cabinets - Juki sewing machines and overlockers - Habedashery, threads etc All on display at Internet Prices

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

www.westendsewing.co.uk

ESSEX

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham, GL50 4AA 01242 244025 info@westendsewing.co.uk

GRIMSBY

GRIMSBY

DABhandLaserCraft From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

And Sew On Fabrics Fabrics, Haberdashery, Pre-Cuts, Books, Patterns, Panels Tuesday - Saturday 10-5 Sunday 10.30-4 Unit 12 Blake House Craft Centre, Blake End, Rayne, Essex, CM77 6SH 01376 346 532 www.andsewonfabrics.com info@andsewonfabrics.com

HALIFAX

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE

The Fabbadashery Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings.

Craft Workshops Every Week! hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

74 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

SEW BUSY Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around!

2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU

Fun & Cute Wood Buttons, more available from www.dabhandlaser.co.uk Check out our other engraved craft supplies and gifts!

Unit 10 Waltham Windmill Brigsley Road Grimsby N.E. Lincs DN37 0JZ

01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

14 High Street, Alton, Hampshire, GU34 1BN T: 01420 544033 E: hello@stitchedbyyou.co.uk www.stitchedbyyou.co.uk Stocking fabrics, haberdashery, dressmaking patterns, and kits!

We also ofer a sewing machine repair service and hold craft workshops.

Do pop in and say hello!

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY HARROGATE

HEREFORD

LINCOLNSHIRE

LONDON

Badder Fabrics of Hereford is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire.

We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service.

We ofer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.

www.inefabricsofharrogate.co.uk inefabricsofharrogate@gmail.com

LONDON

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

LONDON

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

NEWPORT

Discover new sewing skills

NORFOLK

Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops.

Including: Liberty, Kafe Fassett, Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft

15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 maria@sammur.com www.reallymaria.com

NORFOLK

The Fent Shop Everything for dress and curtain making, knitting, needlework, and much more!

41 Broad Street, Kings Lynn, Norfolk, PE30 1DP

Let us teach you the Art of Sewing.

With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email skbtailoring@gmail.com We make learning easy

NORTHALLERTON

Your NEW one stop sewing shop!

Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

01553 768613

Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY

www.thefentshopkingslynn.co.uk

Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

SCOTLAND

SOMERSET

• Sewing classes • Sewing patterns • Large range of fabrics • Machine sales • Machine service/repairs • Haberdashery 01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU www.sewingstudiobath.com m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

PRESTON

Oficial Silver Sewing Machine stockist Full range of accessories, needles, pins, scissors, name tape/pens, fabrics, elastics, ribbons, buttons etc Sewing Workshops, popular with all ages from 9 years old upwards.

Alterations Service for Clothing and Soft Furnishings.

Welcome to my lovely craft emporium!

We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

01280 308721 maryclarestaples@hotmail.co.uk

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

SOMERSET

STAFFORDSHIRE

Stockists of: • Gorgeous dressmaking fabrics & accessories • Fabulous yarns • Knit & crochet patterns • Knitpro and Brittany accessories • DMC threads • Classes for beginners Tuesday - Friday 10 - 5, Saturday 10 - 2

thesewingcorner26@gmail.com 18b Silver Street, Ilminster TA19 0DJ 01460 391803

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 75

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY SOUTHAMPTON

SOUTH WALES

Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts.

Helen Rhiannon runs the All Sewn Up Workshops in Swansea, South Wales.

www.allsewnupwales.co.uk

2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX

Call Helen on 07867 915993

Tel; 02381 783386 Monday – Friday 9-5pm Saturday 9-4pm www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

Helen's expertise and enthusiasm shine through at the All Sewn Up Wales workshops! You can learn to make your own clothes, gifts or soft furnishings in these friendly and sociable workshops. The kettle is always on!

TEWKESBURY

WINCHESTER

SHEFFIELD

TAMWORTH

Sheield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also ofer classes in a variety of crafts.

1a Arundel Road Sheield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

www.handmadehappyhare.com

80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Stafs, B77 5BJ

Ofering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting.

Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

thesewcialstudio.co.uk

ONLINE

Reads of Winchester Suppliers of sewing machines.

Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

Molly Felicity Designs

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

original designs made with you in mind

Tel 01962 850950

Molly Felicity Designs Fabrics and Products are now available from Old Bolsover Yard, 2 Castle Street, S44 6PP

1st Floor, 62 High Street, Winchester, SO23 9BX Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

Shop Local

NEWS Keep up to date with news from your local sewing shop

To advertise please contact Jane on 0161 474 6976 or email jane.bates@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

www.mollyfelicitydesigns.com

This encouraging and fun environment is set in the luxurious Sands Hotel, Margate which has a sea view. Workshops include the use of Janome machines, equipment/materials. Visit the website for booking/details.

ATELIER SAINT CLARE Manchester and Liverpool www.ateliersaintclare.com

ART SEA CRAFT SEA Margate stacey@artseacraftsea.com www.artseacraftsea.com Exciting new monthly projects for 2019! All courses feature free-hand machine embroidery with appliqué and more! Workshop themes include sewing a Valentine’s Card and love letter (Saturday 10th February), glorious birds, portraiture and beautiful florals.

76 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Atelier Saint Clare hold hand embroidery workshops in Manchester and Liverpool including Goldwork, Tambour beading embroidery and Silk Shading. Please find all the future classes on the school website, at www.ecolesaintclare.com.

The Atelier also prides itself on supplying bespoke hand embroidery for private clients and companies including bespoke monograms, a personalised gift for your Christmas presents.

FABRIC

1

2

3

Cosy up to

COTTON 4

6

This versatile material works a treat for a variety of dressmaking projects.

Here are some of our favourite prints

7

5

8

Fabric shopping Majestic Macaw cotton lawn, £14.90 per metre www.sewmesunshine.co.uk Atelier Brunette Cosmic cotton lawn, £15.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com Liberty of London Tana lawn – Hiding, £22.50 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk Catherine stretch cotton, £14 per metre www.sewisfaction.co.uk Kokka big dots beige on green linen double gauze, £21.50 per metre www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk Purple and green NANI IRO Grace double gauze, £22 per metre www.drapersdaughter.com Lewis & Irene Bear Hug Wilderness in grey cotton, £11 per metre www.sewscrumptious.co.uk Metallic Moon Phase Clay cotton, £17.20 per metre www.misformake.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77

We love

BAGS

Kiss &

MAKE-UP MATERIALS & TOOLS: • FQ of metallic faux leather or equivalent • FQ of quilting cotton for lining • 20cm closed-end metal zip • scraps of black faux leather & pink glitter fabric • narrow double-sided tape • 20cm of 0.9m-wide iron on interfacing (optional) • template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

This cute and fun project with just a touch of free-motion machine embroidery is an ideal introduction to sewing with faux leather Project SAM MALLOY www.stitchedupbysamantha.co.uk

A

B

C

D

E

F

NOTES: Seam allowance of 5mm is included except where otherwise stated

FINISHED SIZE: Approximately 20x15cm

HOW TO MAKE: Cut two rectangles to 23x18cm from both the faux leather and quilting cotton.

If your faux leather is quite thin or stretchy, you can stabilise it with some iron-on interfacing. Cut two rectangles to match and apply to the WS, taking care not to melt the faux leather.

Trace the template for the lips onto the back of a small piece of glitter fabric. Trace the eyelash template onto the back of some black faux leather twice. Flip the template over for one of them so that you have a mirrored pair.

Leaving a 2-3mm strip uncut along the upper edge, cut as indicated by the dashed template lines to create a fringe eyelash effect.

Position the lips onto one piece of the faux leather,

78 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

approximately 6cm up from the bottom (long edge) and centred between the two short sides. Use a small piece of double-sided tape to hold it in place. Position the eyelash strips a few centimetres above the lips, spacing them evenly,

tape in place in a gentle curve.

Using a darning or embroidery foot and with the feed dogs lowered (see page 23 for tips), stitch the eyelashes and lips in place. You may ďŹ nd it easiest to start sewing in the middle of the eyebrow pieces,

stitch to one end, then right back to the other end.

For the lips, it’s easiest to start at the bottom. Go around twice and then stitch a curved line along the middle to mark out the top and bottom lips.

(See Pic A.)

Sam says...

I used the Smooth Pearl Metallic Leatherette in Champagne Gold from Funtastic Crafts for my pouch, but this project is a great scrap-busting design so search your stash!

Walking FOOT

Top tip

Why not size up your pouch to make a clutch bag? Perfect for dinner out with the girls

8 Take the piece of faux leather with the cheeky face on and lay the zip face down along the top edge with the edge of the zip tape against the edge of the faux leather.

Lay one piece of lining fabric RS down on top, sandwiching the zip between the layers.

Hold in place with quilt clips.

Using your zip foot, stitch this side of the zip in place.

(Remember to raise your feed dogs first). (See Pic B.) 9 Repeat with the other side of the zip and bag.

If you wish, you can then top-stitch the quilting cotton to the zip tape. This stops the lining riding up inside the pouch and getting stuck in the zip. (See Pic C.)

Fold so that the two faux leather outer pieces are RST and the two lining pieces are RST, with the zip running down the join in the middle.

(See Pic D.) Hold the faux leather together with quilt clips and the cotton lining with pins.

Make sure that the zip teeth are pointing towards the faux leather side and the zip is open.

Using a seam allowance of 15mm, stitch around the rectangle, leaving a gap of 10-15cm in the long edge of the cotton lining to allow for turning. Back-stitch at the start and end to secure your thread.

Trim the corners at a 45°

angle, taking care not to cut through your stitching and trim the seam allowances down by half. Leave the full seam allowance on the side with the opening.

Carefully turn your pouch RS out through the opening in the lining. A point turner is helpful to get your corners nice and sharp.

Turn the seam allowance of the opening to the inside and pin together. (See Pic F) Stitch the opening closed, this can either be done by hand or machine.

Cut a long thin strip of faux leather and thread it through the zip pull. Tie in a knot and trim the ends as required.

Sit back and admire your pouch!

Although they seem costly, walking feet are worth their weight in gold when sewing bulky layers and sewing thick fabric like leatherette.

Universal walking feet are available at a lower cost to fit the majority of machines but most machine manufacturers sell them to fit their own machines. A quick online search for your make of machine and 'walking foot' will bring up the best one for you!

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79

80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

ASK THE EXPERTS

Special hems

Alison Smith MBE shares with us how to use horsehair braid to create a statement hem

H

ems on statement garments like vintage dresses or wedding dresses are really important: They maintain the drama of your garment's silhouette and in longer dresses and prevent the skirt from slipping under your feet as you walk.

Here I explain how to use horsehair braid to turn up a reinforced hem, as the braid holds the dress away from the body and creates a lovely, structured finish. The technique can be used on any style of dress, from long and straight, to a full skirt with a train or even a shorter dress.

WHAT IS HORSEHAIR BRAID? Many years ago, horsehair braid was made of horsehair, just like the horsehair canvas used in tailoring, but today horsehair braid is mainly made from nylon and looks like a small weave netting.

Horsehair braid generally comes in two widths: one about 3cm and another about 6cm with a loose stitch along one edge that you can gather to shape the braid into a curve. Horsehair braid is stretchy so it will shape easily around curves – perfect for circle skirts!

|n this issue Alison helps

us finish our hems in style www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 81

Secure the hem permanently with a straight stitch. (See Fig B.)

Top tip!

B

Pick up your copy of Simplicity 8592 from www.sewdirect.com.

Priced ÂŁ10.50, this lovely vintage re-issued pattern comes in sizes 10-18 and 20W-28W

Which width you choose depends on the style of dress and fabric. As a general rule for short dresses and long A-line or straight skirts I would choose the narrower braid, but for a very full skirt, a dress with a train or a heavy duchess satin-like fabric I would choose a wider braid.

Why not use braid in the hem of a peplum or sleeve to create a striking inish, or along a frill to create a dramatic waterfall efect?

Do not press, just gently steam, and hand-press into shape.

Your hem stitching line will be visible with this method, but on a vintage-style garment this lovely deep hem will look wonderful; or, on a busy print it is unlikely to be seen at all. Alternatively, you could prick-stitch the hem in place for a more invisible finish.

WIDE BRAID TECHNIQUE FOR 1CM HEM ALLOWANCE Overlap the braid on the WS of the fabric by 1cm. The edge with the gathering stitch should hang below the hem. (See Fig C.) Tack to secure.

Use a herringbone or a catch-stitch to secure the braid to the skirt. (See Fig E.) If you have underlined the skirt with dress net (for added va-va-voom) then these stitches can go straight through the dress net and are really hidden from the right side.

As before, do not press, just gently steam, and hand-press into shape.

E

INSTALLING BRAID Make sure the hem has been levelled and the raw edge overlocked. The two braids can be used for different amounts of hem turn up so please think about the finished length of the dress or skirt you wish to achieve.

NARROW BRAID TECHNIQUE FOR 3CM HEM ALLOWANCE On the WS of the skirt, align the braid to the raw edge of the fabric. Tack to secure, close to the raw edge.

Using a narrow zigzag stitch (width 3.0 and length 2.0) stitch the top edge to the fabric.

(See Fig A.)

Turn up the hem a little over 3cm. The zigzag stitching should now be adjacent to the folded edge, only visible on the inside of the garment.

82 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

The gathered edge of the braid can be a little scratchy against the skin, so there is always the option of binding the edge after it has been gathered to the correct width, before hand-stitching in place.

C

Using a narrow zigzag stitch (width 3.0 and length 2.0) attach permanently, as before and remove the tacking stitches.

Roll the braid and hem up to the WS of the fabric to create a 1cm hem. Tighten the gathering thread on the top edge of the braid, to shape into a curve. Its best to gather a little at periodic points to keep the gathering even. (See Fig D.)

D

ABOUT ALISON SMITH Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your perfect companion. Each issue is filled with beautiful quilting projects from big bed quilts to must-have accessories, using the latest fabric and stash-friendly scraps.

ON SALE 10TH JANUARY

MEET MISTER DOMESTIC & explore his new fabric!

PLUS! ❖ BEAUTIFUL PROJECTS for Valentine’s Day ❖ STEP-BY-STEP guide to appliqué ❖ EXCLUSIVE Janome hexagon ruler!

WWW.QUILTNOW.CO.UK

/QUILTNOW

/QUILTNOWMAG

@QUILTNOWMAG

QUILTNOW

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/qn58

www.evans.co.uk

FABRIC

1

2

3

ANIMAL

attraction

4

5

6

7

8

If you're looking for a bold design for an eye-catching garment, choose an animal print. It's back in a big way so we've picked our favourite prints

Fabric shopping Indian leopard jersey, ÂŁ5 per metre www.fabworks.co.uk Purple with trees and wild animals cotton, ÂŁ8.89 per metre www.stoffstil.co.uk Animal Ombre lycra (FLO581), ÂŁ18 per metre www.funkifabrics.com Heavily disguised textured knit in grey black, ÂŁ7 per metre www.croftmill.co.uk Encrusted sequin leopard fabric, ÂŁ60 per metre www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk White tiger viscose crĂŞpe, ÂŁ11 per half metre www.raystitch.co.uk Savannah leopard cotton sateen, ÂŁ5 per metre www.fabworks.co.uk Royal blue animal print jersey, ÂŁ6.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 85

PATTERN

Spring FORWARD We’ve rounded up our top picks for clever winter warmers that perfectly transition to spring!

Burda 6418

SAVE 20% on the Ness skirt with code

NESS20 before 31st January 2019. P&P charges apply

Ness skirt Elevate your sewing with this classic fly-front skirt pattern.

The straight skirt has a shaped waistband and curved back yoke for a flattering fit. Choose from the mini version or below-theknee hemline with a centre front split. Let’s get stitching! Sizes 6-20, priced £12.50 shop.tillyandthebuttons.com

The two designs in this pattern pack are cut with figure-flattering lines, including panel seams and in-seam pockets. The chic elbow length sleeves of View B will make it a yearround favourite. Make heavyweight fabric to survive the winter or sew in linen or chambray ready for spring. We quite like the idea of adding embroidery to the shoulders for a custom look. Sizes 10-20, priced £7.50 www.sewdirect.com

Sierra Jumpsuit Jump into any season with one of the leggy versions of this stylish jumpsuit. The pattern features an easy-wear sleeveless cross-over bodice, featuring a detail side-waist tie, three different leg style options, invisible zipper fastening at side, inseam pockets and bust darts. Worn here with the Rise & Fall Turtleneck, it’s a great winter into summer piece.

Sizes XXS-XL, priced £19 www.backstitch.co.uk

Simplicity 8601 This clever little wardrobe winner features a pullover top with four sleeve variations. All views have a split-front bodice that ties in a neat bow. There are even tie-hem sleeves in there if you want all the bow finishes! We love that there’s no risk of a peeking belly button with the fit and length of this pattern. Sizes 6-14 and 14-22, priced £9.50 www.sewdirect.com

Kinetic Tee

McCall’s 7876

Looking for workout gear that looks good enough to wear out and about? Absolutely! With modern cut outs and clever construction, this tee is both fun to make and show off. Make in mixed jersey and try straight or twisted sleeves, then play with contrast stitching. Sizes XXS-XL, priced £8.49 shop.fehrtrade.com

There are so many great outfit ideas in this double pattern pack. The jackets are loose-fitting and lined, with length variations and pockets. The trousers are loose-fitting with fly front, slash pockets, asymmetrical front pleats and straight legs. Make a co-ordinating pair or great separates! Sizes 6-14 and 14-22, priced £9.50 www.sewdirect.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87

We love STYLE

Make me

TODAY This skirt is super easy and it has just one pattern piece!

Project LAUREN ELBERT www.sadiandsam.com

88 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

A

B

D

E

C

Top tip!

Invest in an overlocker so your garments survive many machine washes and your seams are robust!

LAYPLAN: 60"-wide fabric

45"-wide fabric

FOLDED EDGE

FOLDED EDGE

FOLDED EDGE

FOLDED EDGE

SIZING: BODY MEASUREMENTS

XS

S

WAIST

25-26”

27-28”

29-30”

31½-33”

35-37”

HIPS

35-36”

37-38”

39-40”

41½-43”

45-47”

M

L

XL

HOW TO MAKE: MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.5m 45”- or 60”-wide knit fabric • 1m of 1cm-wide elastic • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: This pattern includes 3/8" seam allowance unless otherwise stated Medium-weight knit fabric with good resistance is ideal for this project, such as knits with Lycra.

Ponte roma, nylon spandex knit or cotton spandex blend is ideal

1 Begin by cutting two pieces of elastic the same length as the waist edge of the skirt in your chosen size.

2 If using the same fabric for the outer and lining, determine which will be the outer and, on the WS of these fabric pieces, attach the elastic at the waistline within the waist seam allowance. (See pics A & B.) Use a narrow zigzag stitch setting such as 2x2mm.

3 Place the outer fabric 4 pieces together at the side seams and stitch along the side seams. Repeat for the lining. (See Pic C.) 5 Turn the skirt RS out, keeping the lining inside out.

Slip the lining over the skirt, lining up the side seams. The skirt and lining should be RST. 6 Attach the lining to the skirt by sewing along the waistline.

7 Flip the lining RS out and understitch the elastic seam

allowance to the lining side only using a zigzag stitch.

8 Turn the skirt RS out, with the lining inside. (See Pic D.) 9 Line up the raw edges of the hem, making sure the side seams line up.

Fold up both layers as one with a 1” hem allowance and pin in place.

Using either a double needle or zigzag stitch, sew the hem in place. Press the skirt to finish. (See Pic E.)

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The Dressmaker's With Elisalex

DIARY Add bra carriers to your favourite dress with this handy tutorial

S

ome things never change.

Pizza is still my favourite, I watch Friends when I’m sick or sad, Elvis is the king and when in doubt, my go-to feelgood outfit will always be a 50s-style sundress with a cinched waist and strappy shoulders.

Some things however, do and the fact that I can no longer get away with wearing said sundresses sans brassière means that I have started sewing bra carriers into the shoulder straps in order to maintain a streamlined look and prevent the dreaded bra strap peepage (unless of course it’s a flawlessly elegant black lace bra strap and I’m having a bit of a Carrie Bradshaw moment... because in those cases, bra strap peepage is absolutely encouraged.

The good news is that adding bra strap carriers to just about any dress – handmade, shop bought, inherited or otherwise – is very easy, super quick and highly effective.

In fact, some of the most breathtaking handmade vintage dresses in my collection already have bra strap carriers sewn in, so I like to think that adding this extra little couture detail is a whole lot more than just a functional contraption aiding me in my quest to temporarily defy gravity!

Let's cover the basic steps for how to add these clever fasteners to your next garment.

92 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Top tip!

Find the Charlie dress pattern as a PDF download priced £9.50, available in sizes 6-20 at www.byhand london.com

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • any dress that exposes your bra straps – it can be handmade or shop bought, just not strap-less, for obvious reasons!

• narrow twill tape, ideally ½” wide • a pair of small metal poppers, or two pairs if you are making bra carriers at the front & back of your dress • hand-sewing needle • thread • snips

HOW TO MAKE: I’ll be demonstrating on one of my favourite handmade dresses of all time – my version of our By Hand London Charlie sundress made from the most beautifully weighty linen viscose mix from The Fabric Godmother.

4 Do your best not to let your stitches show through to the front of your straps/ dress! Shoulder straps will usually be a double layer, so try to sew only through the inner layer.

5 For carriers sewn onto a bodice with sleeves, try to catch only the lining fabric as you sew your poppers. If there is no lining, match your thread as closely to the fabric as possible and sew as neatly as you can with teeny tiny stitches!

6 Now we need to sew the other half of the popper to the twill tape. Don’t worry about getting the length of the twill tape right just yet.

7 Fold over one end to neaten it of and sew the popper over the fold with small hand stitches in a co-ordinating thread.

There you go that one's complete!

Now all you need to do is repeat for the remaining bra strap carrier(s), and you're done! I told you it was easy. Now go forth and add to all your favourite garments.

With that straight across neckline and slim shoulder straps, there’s no hope for my bra straps to remain hidden…

1 We’re going to start by sewing the sticky-out half of the popper to the strap.

If you’re adding bra strap carriers to a dress with shoulder straps similar to mine, position the popper over to one side of the strap, bearing in mind that the twill tape carrier will be covering the width of the strap, stitched down at one side and popping into place at the other side.

2 If you’re adding your bra strap carriers to a dress with sleeves, then where you stitch your popper matters less. Just make sure that you position your carriers so that your bra is held in place about ¾” in from the neckline.

3 You could either sew your carriers at the shoulder seams, or if your neckline is particularly wide and scooped, then I’d recommend sewing the carriers a couple of inches down the bodice front from the shoulder seams.

8 And inally, didn’t I tell you this would be easy?! We need to sew the twill tape into place inside the strap or bodice.

Start by fastening the popper. Keeping the popper fastened will help as you anchor the twill tape down on the other side of the strap.

Trim the twill tape down so that it is long enough to cover the width of your bra strap, plus a little extra to fold over in order to neaten the end.

Pin the folded end into place and hand sew the fold to the strap/shoulder seam/bodice securely and neatly with a whip stitch.

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex de Castro Peake is the Head of Design and Co-founder of

By Hand London. An independent pattern company. It produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 93

SEWING ROOM Keepin’ it reel Let’s face it, being a sewist is pretty cool and we love this quirky print from Little Gems Prints. Perch it by your sewing machine, we’re sure the play on words will make you smile every time. Keepin’ it reel print, £10 www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ LittleGemsPrints

Make it personal Personalise your sewing room with this simple and chic print designed

by Jane Farnham. It would also make a lovely gift for a crafty friend.

Personalised Sew Happy print, £18 www notonthehigh street.com

HUNG UP ON YOU Customise your sewing space with these versatile prints Sewing mantra Keep those handy sewing aphorisms in check by hanging this colourful print in your crafty space. It’s simple but effective, we love it! Linocut print, £20 www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ WoahTherePickle

Vintage vibes There’s something about vintage prints that look fabulous in sewing spaces and this detailed black and white design is at the top of our list. And, if the abundance of fabric and consistency with which you sport a tape measure doesn’t say ‘I Love to Sew’, this print is certainly a good sign. I Love to Sew poster, £8.85 www.zazzle.co.uk 94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Home sweet home For most of us, home is where we indulge in some relaxing sewing time so this pretty print is the perfect instigator for us to breathe a big sigh of relief as we enter our crafty space after a busy day. Home sweet home laser-cut cross stitch board, from £35 www.cottonclara.com

Lecien’s New Range

By Lynette Anderson Dancing in the Blossom inspired by Lynette Anderson’s visits to Japan where the simple beauty of life is honoured, where the cherry trees are lovingly cared for throughout the year and the abundant blossom is anxiously awaited in the Spring.

With the carp swimming at their feet, a sweet parasol in one hand and a handbag in the other the Kimono ladies are dancing in the blossom on the focal print. While the loral and textured designs are coloured in a soft palette of soft teals, dusky mauves, silver plums and smudgy charcoals. For Lynette’s projects and patterns please go to www.littlequiltstore.com.au

Available in stores April/May

My Journey with Nutex “I have always found Nutex to be dedicated to delivering quality fabrics to the fabric industry, Nutex are backed by a knowledgeable team who deliver excellent service.”

For Your Stockist contact: Email: warehouse@nutexuk.co.uk Tel: 0191 454 5605 www.nutexuk.co.uk

Lynette

Printed in Japan

Next month in

T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

3 GREAT PATTERNS

worth over ÂŁ18 Mode qui va bien/ Moda que entalla

M6891

F A S H I O N T H AT F I T S A

Size Taille Talla

B

(8-10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24)

D

M

industrielle strictementinterdite.www

M6891_ENV

C

McCall's 6891 stylish shirtdresses Threadcount 1901

5-in-1 skirt pack Kwik Sew 0210

Expanding tote bag Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P The former Bees chat about their favourite Sewing Bee memories P Stylish chambray skirt project P Simple Sew button-down blouse P Join our new couture sew-along

Plus much more!

Sizes

8-24

ISSUE 63 ON SALE 24TH JAN 2019 Ultimate

PENCIL SKIRTS

Sewing Bee secrets:

PATRICK GRANT

Brilliant tips for

BAG MAKING

See page 28 for our subscriber offer

Quick and simple

HOME MAKES y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake *All contents subject to change.

We love

Take the

HOME

HEAT Top tip Choose thicker-weight fabric to make it even more heatproof to keep your hands safe!

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • • • • • • • •

1 FQ of main fabric 1 FQ of lining fabric 1 FQ of wadding contrast double-fold bias binding co-ordinating thread air-erasable fabric marker fabric spray glue templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

FINISHED SIZE: 11� (28cm) long

place the lining on top. You now have two sandwiches of fabric making up the front and back of the oven glove.

Place the pieces together RST. Fold the hanging loop in half and slide it into the side

ABOUT THE BOOK

HOW TO MAKE: Fold the main fabric in half and use the template to cut out two pieces of main fabric, lining and wadding. Now you will have two mirror images of the glove: the back and the front. (See Pic A.) Cut one 3� (7.5cm) piece of bias binding or ribbon for a hanging loop.

Spray the WS of both pieces of main fabric with fabric spray glue and place the wadding on top.

Spray the wadding and

98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Fat Quarter: One-piece projects

by Tina Barrett, ÂŁ12.99, GMC Publications Ltd

seam near the bottom edge and on the opposite side to the thumb.

Machine-stitch around the outside edges using a 3/8�

(1cm) seam allowance. Leave the bottom open. (See Pic B.) Clip and notch the curves then trim the excess fabric from the seam right down to the base of the thumb. Turn the RS out. Press.

Open out the bias binding and with RST pin the bias around the outside of the bottom edge of the glove, matching the raw edges.

Fold back then overlap the short ends by 1� (2.5cm) and pin in place.

Machine-stitch along the first crease, all around.

Press the binding downwards then fold along the centre crease. Arrange on the inside to cover the stitching line.

Using a needle and thread, slip-stitch the binding in place to finish. (See Pic C.)

Protect yourself in style with this fun, bright and easy-sew oven glove! Why not make a matching pair?

Project TINA BARRETT

A

B

C

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 99