Pattern Promise! FABULOUS DESIGNS IN SIZES 6-20*
FRESH LOOKS FOR SPRING Simple Swing Jacket · Palazzo Pants
14
EASY STITCH EASY WEAR!
FEB 2019 ISS 120 £7.99
x
*Size ranges vary per pattern
FOLLOW OUR SIMPLE STEPS
WRAP AND GO MAXI
SILKY TIE TOP Under £10
FEEL-GOOD FROCK
6 steps to style!
EXCLUSIVE! PATRICK GRANT on... Award-winning garments
Helo... February February is the season of love, and I like to treat it as the perfect excuse to show a little gratitude to friends and family – it’s amazing how much joy a hand-sewn envelope stufed to the gills with sugary sweet love hearts can bring! This month, it’s time to give your wardrobe some loving too, and we have just the enclosed patterns to help you do so. Simplicity 1069 ofers full-length skirts and trousers to swish around in this spring; there’s also Simplicity 8610, which can be used to sew jumpsuits and dresses with natty in-seam pockets. For date nights, try our sleeveless tie top (p43) paired with a pretty bow skirt (p24) or go for a touch of vintage with Fiona Hesford’s frilled dress (p37). Don’t forget to complete the look with our leather zipped pouch on page 54. Valentine’s is also a great opportunity for self-love, which is why we’ve delved into the world of mindful slow stitching to ind out the magical benefits behind simply taking a deep breath and enjoying the process of sewing itself (p46). Why not get started with Susie Johns’ embroidered wall hanging on page 52? We promise it’s oh-so soothing to make! Finally, Sewing Bee favourite Patrick Grant stopped by to share his ultimate tips on creating perfectly inished clothing (p59) – just in time for those of us thinking about entering Dressmaker of the Year! We’ve had some fabulous submissions so far, and every single entrant will receive two FREE Simplicity patterns. Simply log-on to sewmag.co.uk/dressmakeroftheyear to get started.
Lucy xx
Lucy Jobber, Sew editor
Project exclusive to
sew!
sew free template download
sewmag.co.uk /templates
TWO EASY PATTERNS INSIDE!
Make our Valentine’s bird duo on p69
28
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It’s time to start your sping stitching! Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY
sew in your February issue... 50
59
We loe!
68 69 68 Sweet purse
90 Style story: The T-shirt
IN EVERY ISSUE
86 Your sewing guide
03 Welcome
89 Next month
We discover more about this wardrobe basic
Our March issue’s out on 7th February
GIFTS
Cards will never be the same!
49 Patchwork tote
69 Heart keyrings
TEA BREAK
Whip-up a paper piece bag
46 Mindful stitching
50 Susie Johns’ wall hanging
It is Valentine’s month after all
Get to grips with sewing jargon
Come and say hello!
06 Who, what, wear What’s trending in the sewing world
17 Sew social You’ve been sharing your makes
52 Sew wishlist February’s top picks will make your heart flutter
70 Stitch & learn
53 Mending Matters Sew chats to author Katrina Rodabaugh
59 Fit and finish
Our round-up of sewing classes
85 The books we’re loving The latest must-reads
53
Sit back, relax and reap the benefits of making
49
Patrick Grant is among the experts helping to perfect your DOTY entry
Send a heartfelt message to a loved one
62 Multipurpose mat
For carrying around all of your sewing projects
68 Fabric envelopes
69 Buttons and Bows Our mascots were named by a Sew reader
Create a two-in-one accessory
HOME
66 Confessions of a sewing addict
Chats about love and slow stitching
Beat that creative slump with Corinne’s mindful advice
46
64 Stuart Hillard 65 Pocket organiser Stash away your sewing bits
74 Dressing gown
77
Stitch this mini make
75 Bear wall mount No teddy bears will be harmed in its creation!
76 Knick-knack bag For when the kids’ toys get everywhere!
77 Felt alphabet A fun and educational make
77 Mouse bookends The furry friends will keep a watchful eye over your project books 04
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75
FREEBIES & OFFERS
2
PATTERNS INSIDE
Dressmaking pages of fashion,
Make a capsule wardrobe
30 garments & more!
82
10 Oh-so comfy jumpsuit Or why not create the dress and kimono versions? 13 Floaty bottoms Swish your way into February 20 Stretch knits This month’s must-have picks 22 Nadia dress Go glam in this pretty number 24 Aimee skirt For day-to-night style
43
26 Sewing with Tilly Stitch a brand-new ironing board cover! 28 Georgina jacket Practise inishing of edges with this make 30 Sewing SOS Expert advice for achieving professional-looking garments 32 Debbie Shore’s show and tell Master self-covered buttons
13
34 Indie pattern news Don’t miss out on these independent brand picks 36 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools... for beginner stitchers 37 Florence dress Learn how to add bell sleeves with Fiona Hesford’s masterclass 40 Love your... Janome machine! 43 Cara top Sew this beautiful high-neck number
20% off* Minerva crafts
7 06 20% OFF* Abakhan Stock up on dressmaking material!
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07 20% OFF* Minerva Crafts Why wouldn’t you want to treat yourself?
82 WIN! Giveaways Prizes worth over £1,000!
84 Reader ofer FREE* The Vintage Pattern Selector book worth £15.99
Subscribe today... Moss Polka dot
STITCHY PRIZES TO WIN! Enter online at
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FREE*FABRIC AND PATTERN BUNDLE WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE TO SEW! TWO BEAUTIFUL FABRICS TO CHOOSE FROM!
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SEE PAGE 56 05
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FREE GIFT
GET READY FOR SPRING WRAP TOPS & FLOATY SKIRTS
wear
who what
&
The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!
adorn your home Master the art of embroidery with 25 beautiful patterns in Freestyle Embroidered Mandalas. From simple monochrome, to flamboyant bead and thread versions, these decorations will inspire both newbie stitchers and seasoned professionals alike. The authors of the book also share plenty of tips and tricks, to guide you through the process of making your very own mandala designs. £15.99, searchpress.com
material world Have you been to H&M recently? If so, you may have noticed the new clothing collection which features prints from The Original Morris & Co! Free Spirit Fabrics has access to these designs so you can get inspired and make your own gorgeous garments from these iconic materials. The newest range can be bought in April 2019, so keep your eyes peeled and your needles ready! freespiritfabrics.com
elegant style Have you got any special occasions around the corner? Crafty Sew and So’s My Handmade Wardrobe Ready to Party dress is the perfect outfit choice! The pattern includes two neckline and skirt styles and those allimportant pockets, plus it will give you the chance to practise sewing princess seams, delicate straps and a bodice. £9, craftysewandso.com
Fabric Club Sew Over It founder, Lisa Comfort has now launched a brand-new subscription service, Fabric Club. Each month, you’ll be able to choose from four boxes which are tailored to your stitching preferences and ability. Each box contains two beautiful materials with matching thread, a pattern recommendations card and a mini bag of sweets! What more could you want? sewoverit.co.uk
* 20% OFF
abakhan fabrics If you need to stock up on dressmaking material, or simply want to treat yourself, then you’re in luck because Abakhan is giving all Sew readers an exclusive 20% of* discount! Just use code DRESS20 and ill your stitchy stash with all sorts of materials, from jersey knits to cotton prints. abakhan.co.uk 06
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*Valid from 7th January 2019 until 7th February 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with sale items.
If you buy one pattern...
DISNEY inspired Cath Kidston has released another set of fabrics in collaboration with Disney! The new range features designs from the classic 1942 ilm, Bambi. These limited-edition prints are being used for everything from garments and accessories, to homeware and children’s clothes – so there’s something for everyone! cathkidston.com
Patern Crush This new Pinnacle top and sweater from Papercut Patterns has three variations: one features a cropped, oversized it with a deep V-neck; the second has a round neck; the third incorporates a simple neckband and sleeve cufs. Two of the three designs can be made up in a light- to mediumweight fabric such as silk or linen, whereas the other can be sewn with a jersey knit material. £19, backstitch.co.uk
Culotte jumpsuit, £29, jdwilliams.co.uk
If there’s one pattern you need for February, then this is it! The New Look 6413 includes dress and jumpsuit designs, featuring a V-neck and front zip, along with sleeves in two diferent lengths and the option to add a belt to the frock. This pattern will see you through from the tail end of winter, to the spring and summer months ahead. £7.50, simplicitynewlook.com
20% OFF!*
20% off* Minerva Crafts! Here at Sew HQ, we never turn down an excuse to stock up our stash – and we bet you don’t either! So head over to Minerva Crafts with discount code SEWFEB to bag yourself 20% off* all cotton poplin fabrics. minervacrafts.com
*Valid from 7th January 2019 until 28th February 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.
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STYLISH STAPLES collection
Natty cropped jackets, high-waisted skirts and silky tie tops are just a taster of what’s on ofer to sew in this month’s capsule set. We’ve chosen cooling muted hues, but these could easily be pepped up with a kick of colour, too!
PAGE
13 silky
PALAZZO PANTS
get stitching with your easy patterns
Get the slink factor with these statement floral trews
PAGE
10 pocket
PERFECT PATTERN Dress or jumpsuit, the choice is all yours!
our pattern PROMISE
All of our patterns are available in sizes 6-20* * Covermounted gifts may vary 08
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PAGE
43
PAGE
neck-tie
24
TOP
high-waisted
There’s no need for fiddly fastenings with this easy slip-on
PAGE
22 notch
NECK DRESS Fuss-free fashion wrapped up in a linen frock
PAGE
28 cropped
WOOL JACKET Keep it cosy with our springtime essential 09
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SKIRT
Emphasise your hourglass with this tie-belted bottom
Discover the YOUR BONUS PATTERN
potential
In association with the STITCH IT WITH
of your
A-series
2EASY
patterns
This month, your TWO Simplicity patterns ofer you the chance to expand your capsule collection with 10 DIFFERENT GARMENTS! Start of with Simplicity 8610 to create a gorgeous jumpsuit and dress which can be made up in cotton, linen and twill, plus two kimono styles which are best suited to challis and other silky materials. With this pattern to hand, you’ll be able to kit out your wardrobe for spring in no time at all.
making the CUT When cutting open buttonholes, you can use seam rippers or scissors, but the chances of snipping it a bit too far is pretty risky business! To avoid this, you should invest in a buttonhole cutter. Place two pins perpendicular to the longest edges of the buttonhole, put a block of wood or something similar underneath the garment, then position the cutter and tap it We used Linen Look Polyester with a hammer. Suiting Dress Fabric in Lavender, £3.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com For the jumpsuit and dress on this pattern, you’ll need a 14-inch invisible zip for the fastening. To prevent the zip tab from getting in the way of the stitching and, as a result, creating an unpolished inish, you should buy a zip which is around two inches longer than you require. By doing so, the zip tab will be out of the way of the opening and out of reach of the sewing. Once you’ve inish stitching, the extra bit of zip can be removed.
pick your NEEDLE If you choose to make up pattern A or B in a cotton or linen fabric, then it’s best to choose a universal needle in size 70 to 90. This needle is suitable for both light- and medium-weight materials.
fasten UP
Prym Premium Universal Sewing Machine Needles size 70 to 100, £2.49 for five, minervacrafts.com
choose a THREAD For any design on this pattern, you should use either a cotton or polyester thread. Cotton is best suited for natural woven fabrics when you want them to hold their shape. However, an all-purpose polyester thread is also ideal, especially if you want your clothes to have some ‘give’ when you’re wearing them.
adding STRETCH
perfect POCKETS Everyone loves a garment with a practical pair of inseam pockets! You’ll be able to add these to designs A and B on this pattern with the help of this handy tip. Before you start sewing the pockets to the garment, make sure you neaten the raw edges with an overlocker or zig zag stitch. It’s always a good idea to start with this step to ensure a professional result, as once you’ve sewn them to the main fabric, you may have to leave sections of the pocket edges near the seam uninished.
Variation D on this pattern is a kimono which requires you to add elastic to the bottom. To make inserting it easier, attach a large safety pin to one end and slide the head through into the opening in the casing. With the other end, simply pin it in place or hold onto it while you guide the side with the safety pin through the hole.
We used Mettler Seralon Universal General Purpose thread in Heather Pink and Cachet for our dress. For stockists, visit amann-mettler.com 10
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Spot Print Cotton Chambray Denim Dress Fabric in Sky Blue, £11.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
find out what your second pattern has to offer ON p13
STITCH IT WITH In association with the
A-series your bonus pattern
4 capsule
style selector
essentials
style a ALL-IN-ONE Looking for style and comfort combined in one outfit? This jumpsuit fits the bill! The ensemble is easy to dress up or down, so it’s suitable for a whole host of occasions.
why we made STYLE B Our dressmaker created style B because of its simple design which will be perfect for the spring and summer months ahead. It’s great for practising darts, inseam pockets, hems and buttonholes, too.
style B SEASONAL STYLE This dress is a musthave for your spring/ summer wardrobe! It has thin straps and a softly pleated waistband – what more could you ask for?
style C CHIC KIMONO A kimono is always a good way to add a layer of warmth and style to any outfit. Make design C in a bold, statement print to jazz up your latest go-to ensemble.
WOW!
MAKE FOR £10
style D
Necklace, £15, marksandspencer.com
SILKY LAYER This croppedstyle kimono will add an extra touch of glamour to your wardrobe. The wide sleeves, elasticated waist and tie-belt make this variation a chic and comfortable garment.
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In association with the
A-series
size
the right
get stitching with your easy patterns
what’s your size? Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.
ADDING INTERFACING Using fusible interfacing is a vital part of creating all of the garments in this pattern pack, so here’s a couple of tips on how to get the best results. First, it’s always wise to do a test on a scrap of the same fabric you’re using for the garment. If you’re going to use a delicate material, then put a pressing cloth or lightweight towel in between the iron and the interfacing. Before you move the fabric, allow it to cool down completely on the ironing board first – this will enable the interfacing to remain more firmly attached.
n-one look Get an all-iA nd C, with designs jumaps a gorgeou o comuboit and kimom
PREPARATION IS KEY Prior to cutting out the fabric, make sure you press the pattern pieces with a warm, dry iron and pre-shrink the material in the washing machine or with a steam press for more delicate fabrics. Many people miss out this stage, but it’s better to do this first to ensure that the final garment fits, plus it’s also a good way to test the durability of the fabric.
GATHER UP For each of these pattern variations you’ll need to gather the waist. For medium- to heavy-weight fabrics, you’ll most likely need to use quite a long stitch length, possibly between four and five. However, make sure you do a test piece first because the longest stitch isn’t necessarily the best and it can cause uneven gathers. If you have a lightweight material, you’ll need a slightly shorter stitch length, but again, make sure you test this out on a piece of scrap fabric first.
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In association with the
A-series
creative bonus patterns
with your
get
Simplicity 1069 gives you the opportunity to make trousers, skirts and shorts in a variety of lengths so you can mix and match your capsule wardrobe. These stylish high-waist patterns require either a silk, linen or cotton fabric, plus designs A, B and C will give you the chance to practise inserting an invisible zip. Each variation will also enable you to have a go at creating a waistband, hem and tie-belt.
pattern MATCHING Remember that if you need to match up plaids, stripes or one-way designs, then you should add on some extra fabric to cater for this. When pattern matching, it’s also essential that you ensure the design is running in the same direction for all of the pieces before cutting, and make sure you don’t cut any on the fold as this can cause stripes and plaids to look slightly uneven.
belt UP
Our dressmaker used Country Garden Dusty Rose Silk Satin, £30.50 per three metres, beckfordsilk.co.uk
Patterns A, C, D and E all require you to create a tie-belt. When making this fastening, it’s a good idea to use a point turner to push out the ends and give it a sharp edge. Alternatively, if you prefer you can make a buckle belt instead with just a piece of fabric, (opt for a contrasting colour if you want to create a statement outfit), medium- to heavy-weight interfacing and a buckle.
importance of UNDER STITCHING This stage is essential for each design when it comes to preventing the edge of the facing from rolling towards the outside of the garment. Understitching is often used for necklines, but with this pattern it comes in especially useful when you are stitching around the waistband and zip, as it will ensure the facing remains on the inside of the garment and no sewing will show on the outside.
Art Gallery Fabrics Rayon Challis Fabric, £19.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Invisible zippers, £1.59 each, minervacrafts.com
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OUR COVER STAR!
In association with the
3 machines partydream
ready £279 dresses
EXPERT FINISH
A-series
5
wardrobe staples
3034DWT OVERLOCKER
ON-THE-GO SEWING
£499
your BONUS pattern
Bracelets, £8.50; shoes, £35, next.co.uk; top, £8.99, hm.com
Necklace, £17.50, Marks & Spencer; shoes, £22.99, New Look; bag, £15.99, New Look; bracelet, model’s own
This machine is the perfect addition to any sewing collection for people who want to achieve a professional result. Designed for finishing seams and hems of a wide range of fabrics, as well as creating decorative edges, the 3034DWT features a colour coded lay-in thread guide and lower looping threading system which is incredibly easy to use. The model also includes a free arm, which makes it so much easier to sew in trickier areas.
INNOV-IS A80
The Innov-is A80 gives you the freedom to sew whenever and wherever you want. This lightweight machine comes with a hard case, which makes it perfect for travelling to sewing classes or simply being out and about. With 80 built-in stitches and eight automatic one-step buttonholes, this simple-to-use machine is ideal for a whole host of projects.
Visit brothersewing.co.uk
Sizes 6-14 (US)
Sizes 8-20 (US)
Next month’s 2 BONUS patterns 14
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SPRING STYLE March means it’s time to freshen up your wardrobe for the new season, and where better to start than with these circle skirt and wrap top patterns?
sew YOU!
The Sew team love seeing your makes, and this month is no exception! Take a look at some of the stand-outs...
When I saw this gorgeous fabric on the Sew Over It website, I simply had to buy it to transform into a dress! I used the Burda 7556 pattern, then added vintage-style sleeves. September Chapelle
My friend wanted a new, quirky cushion for her living room, so I decided to make use of my fabric scraps and make a patchwork one. It’s a bit wonky in places, but she seems thrilled with it! Catherine Morton
A Peppa Pig travel colouring folder and cushion. Camelia, Twitter
What a wonderful idea, Camelia, Peppa Pig looks very sweet!
I made this cape using the free pattern which came with Sew’s December issue. It was so simple to put together, and the tweed fabric I sourced is to die for! Rebekah Cunningham
This is my interpretation of Georgia the Pig from Sew’s December issue. I think projects like this are perfect for using up fabric scraps – doesn’t she look cute in her cotton dress and linen jacket? Julie Winfield
chosen by you Find these lovebirds on
p69 Say Helo to Butons and Bows!
Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot. “The names come from a song in an old Bob Hope film, the line is as follows: ‘frills and laces, linen that shows, you’ll be mine in buttons and bows’!” Gillian Bain, Sew reader Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq 17
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Gillian has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk
Continued overleaf
social
Sponsored by Minerva Crafts
www.minervacrafts.com
Write in and WIN! I made this jacket for my daughter who loves to wear retro clothes. It was a Vintage Vogue 2934 pattern and quite challenging to put together, but it was worth the hassle as she absolutely adores it! Carol Clancy
I crafted this purse for a Christmas present. Michelle Ross
That seaside lining is amazing, Michelle!
I stitched this casual dress from old Høie bed sheets! Merete Fagertun
How innovative, Merete!
I’ve been busy stitching tops this week! Emma Dalzell Kitching
We absolutely love the blush pink colour, Emma!
I made Tina Tentacles from your August issue! I took inspiration from Stuart’s column in the same magazine and only used materials from my stash. The stuing was recycled from a Mother Goose toy and the eyes were made out of a broken bracelet. Jane Sale
I hand-beaded Liberty London perfume bottles onto some fabric to frame. Lily Blossom, Twitter
These are beautiful, Lily!
on the sew blog...
Sew sat down with last year’s DOTY winner to chat about her pleat-perfect frock.
Our three experts have provided top tips for working with stretch fabrics!
Michelle Staub, pet embroiderer extraordinaire, shares her secrets to stitchy success!
Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 18
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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com
stitch&share
HHHH HH
Share your latest stitchy triumphs with Sew! PRETTY IN PINK
H
sew
A reading cushion for my friend’s granddaughter. Stephanie Marsh
STAR letter
H
I BELIEVE I made this unicorn pillow, complete with a matching purse and tote bag. Caroline Power
THE PERFECT FINISH
I’ve finally completed this Chanel-style jacket! I used a Vogue pattern, and I quilted the lining to the main fabric but it took me forever to complete as it involved a lot of hand sewing – I do wear it all the time, though.
STAR WARS
Simona Giurgiuveanu
I stitched these Stormtrooper boxers! Allison Maryon
All of your hard work paid of, Simona – the jacket looks wonderful!
I’ve been bombarded with felt gingerbread and snowmen decorations for my school’s fair! Karen King
DECK THE HALLS My last project was this Christmas tableware. Lynda Moss
BRILLIANT BEGINNER My oven mitt and pot mat set. Ruth Birch
This was my first time sewing with velvet, and I created two lined coats for my daughter and her Barbie! Charmaine West
Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 19
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joyful JERSEY
1 2
In 1916, Coco Chanel rocked the fashion industry when she used jersey for womenswear at a time when it was strictly associated with underwear. Vogue blasted the designer, claiming that Chanel ‘made jersey what it is today – we hope she’s satisfied.’ Well, us dressmakers certainly are satisfied with this versatile fabric! Lightweight versions of the material can be used for stretchy garments like T-shirts, and the interlocked variations are great for sturdier projects such as polo shirts. Jersey makes a fantastic choice for your garments too, because it’s incredibly soft and comfortable to wear, plus it’s easy to get to grips with – just turn to p90 for Tilly Walnes’ top sewing tips!
3
4
5
1 2 3 4 5 6
See p90 for Tilly’s jersey tips!
Jersey in Acqua Di Rose, £22.99 per metre Jersey in Sprayed Blooms, £22.99 per metre Jersey in Millefiori Ethereal, £22.99 per metre Jersey in Yinghua Cherrylight, £22.99 per metre Jersey in Blossom Swale, £22.99 per metre Stretch knit in Swans, £12.99 per metre All of the fabrics are available from minervacrafts.com
Bargain
FABRIC BUY!
6 20
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Meet the queen of relaxed shaping, the Project exclusive to
sew!
NADIA DRESS Sewn in a soft blush pink linen, this six-step dress by Julia Claridge oozes femininity with delicate bust darts, a bold notch neckline and flattering three-quarter sleeves. You could also switch it up in rich blue denim hues, or a cool lightweight chambray for a refreshing twist on a classic shift.
create a
NOTCH NECK DRESS Get started • Fabric, 1.7m (140cm) • Zip, 22in 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
Sizes 8-20
Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, then print out and follow the cutting guide. Make the darts by following the markings on the pattern, then join the lower centre back seam to the notch and neaten the raw edges. Carefully apply the zip to the centre back opening.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Join the front and back at the shoulder seam, right sides together. Prepare the neck facing, right sides together, then pair the front and back neck facings at the shoulder seam. Neaten the raw inner edge of the facing; you can overlock this or turn a narrow 5mm hem and stitch.
With right sides together, gently pin the neck facing to the neck edge; you could draw a chalk line to a point at the centre front to follow when stitching, then erase once finished. Trim and clip the neck edge, then under-stitch as close as you can to the upper edge of the notch.
Cutting guide Front: cut one Back: cut one pair Front neck facing: cut one pair in fabric, one in interfacing Back neck facing: cut one pair in fabric, one pair in interfacing Sleeves: cut one pair
Pair the front and back at the side seams, right sides together. Stitch to the mark at the side vent. Join the sleeves, right sides together, then neaten the raw edges. Sew two rows of long ease stitches at the upper edge of the sleeves. With right sides together, pin the sleeve into the armhole.
Pull the ease stitches to fit the armhole, then sew and neaten the raw edges. Press the vents along the fold line, in line with the side seam. At the lower edge, press a 5cm single turned hem and neaten the raw edge. Turn the vent facing back, right sides together.
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Stitch the facing along the hemline fold, trim and turn back. Pin the hem and vents, then stitch around both, close to the inner edge. Neaten the raw edges of the sleeves, turn a single 2.5cm hem and sew. Hand-stitch the neck facing to the shoulder seams.
sew DRESSMAKING
tip!
sew
White chalk, pins and clipping the fabric are all great ways to mark linen without causing damage to the fibres.
free TEMPLATE download sewmag.co.uk /templates
SIZ E S 0 8-2
Core skill: BUST DARTS When creating darts at the bust, you should always press downwards. If you’re working with a sturdier fabric, use steam in the iron to achieve a crisp, smooth dart. You can also invest in a tailor’s ham; this will help with pressing curved hip and bust seams, as well as sleeves.
sew
SHOPPER ************************
ROSY HUES This beautiful Robert Kaufmann Brussels Washer linen comes in a soft rayon blend in delicate blush tones – perfect for injecting a touch of pastel perfection into your wardrobe. £14 per metre, bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!
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Introducing your new closet classic, the
AIMEE SKIRT
Project exclusive to
sew!
sew a
BOW SKIRT Get started • Fabric, 1.7m (116cm) • Medium-weight iron-on interfacing • Zip, 18cm
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one pair Waistband: cut one on the fold Belt: cut two Belt loop: cut one, 4.5cm x 40cm 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
1
Download the template at sewmag.co.uwk, then print and follow the cutting guide. With right sides together and raw edges matched, join the centre back seam from the notch to the hem, then neaten the raw edges and press the seam open. With the back of the garment facing upwards, press the zip opening wider than the seam allowance on the right-hand side, and narrower on the left-hand side.
2
Turn the garment right side up and, with the folded edge close to the teeth, position the zip on the right-hand side. If the zip is longer than the opening, allow it to overhang at the upper edge. Use a zipper foot to stitch close to the teeth. Hang the left-hand pressed edge over the zip teeth, pin so that the folded edge covers the stitching, then tack.
Hang on to your machines, stitchers, because your sewing super powers are about to get a boost! Julia Claridge’s detailed instructions will guide you through inserting a zip, adding decorative topstitching and creating a tie-belt, plus there’s a core skill panel to break down the tricky process of attaching interfacing. Once you’ve inished amping up your skillset, you’ll have a staple garment that can transition efortlessly from warm spring days to cool evenings out!
3
Starting from the zip base, sew the right side in place. For the belt, join the two short ends, right sides together and press the seam open. Fold it in half lengthways, then pin and stitch starting at one short end. Leave a small gap for turning along the length, and another one for finishing at the other short end. To create the belt loops, stitch the length, right sides together, and leave both ends open.
4
Trim the seams and clip the belt corners. Turn the belt and loops to the right side and press, then topstitch the belt and loop edges. Complete a line of topstitching down the centre of the belt, using the seam allowance to ensure that the lines stay straight. Sew around the belt edges, closing the opening as you do so. Finish by adding another line in between the centre and the edge on both sides.
5
With right sides together, pin and sew the skirt together at the side seams, then neaten the raw edges and press the seams open. Apply interfacing to the waistband, fold it in half lengthways and press. On the edge of the waistband that isn’t interfaced, press the seam allowance to the inside.
6
Cut the belt loop into four 8.5cm sections and, with right sides together, place one loop at each waist edge notch. Pin the 24
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sew DRESSMAKING
Core skill: ATTACHING INTERFACING Before you apply interfacing to the main fabric, do a test on a scrap to check that the interfacing weight allows for the right amount of shaping. If the result is too stif, try a lighter weight; if it’s too limsy, opt for a heavier version. Also, when attaching the interfacing, lift the iron, move it to the next position and repeat.
SIZE S
20 8-
band to the waist edge; it should overlap the left-hand side of the zip by 1.5cm. Stitch the waistband to secure, then trim the excess zip. Turn the waistband back on itself so that the right sides face, then sew the edges. Clip the corners and turn the waistband inside.
7
Matching the pressed edge to the waistband seam, pin the edge and hand slipstitch. Turn the raw belt loop edge in, then pin and stitch it to the upper waistband edge. Hand-stitch a hook and bar to the waist, then neaten the edge and press a single turned 1.5cm hem. Sew and press to finish.
sew SHOPPER ************************
AQUA TWIST This yarn dyed linen cotton blend is the best fabric for spring as the medium-weight material hangs beautifully without you even trying! £16 per metre, bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
************************ thank you for shopping! 25
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Top, £12, next.co.uk; Shoes, £15, tkmaxx.com
sew
Sewing with Tilly PRESS TO PERFECTION WITH THIS EASY IRONING BOARD COVER Is your ironing board clear of interfacing glue and stubborn stains? If you answered ‘yes’, we hereby crown you the world’s tidiest seamstress; if your first thought was ‘no’, then it’s about time you made a new board cover! This quick tutorial will walk you through inserting elastic through a self-enclosed tube for a snug fit, as well as attaching bias binding and distributing gathers - so let’s get cracking!
Remove the current cover, then lay the ironing board onto the fabric and draw around it, 5cm away from the edge. Cut the marked shape out. If you’re adding new wadding, snip it to the exact ironing board size and open out the bias binding.
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6
Pin the binding to the fabric, then edgestitch 2mm from the folded edge to create a self-enclosed tube around the underside. Attach a safety pin to one end of the string, then thread it into the tube and guide it around the casing until it reappears.
Iron one of the short ends under by 1cm, wrong sides together. With one long side of the binding opened, pin it to the fabric raw edge, right sides together. Press the short ends under and stitch the binding to the fabric along the fold nearest to the raw edge.
Distribute the gathers until it resembles the shape of the ironing board, ensuring that the string doesn’t vanish into the casing. Position the ironing board inside, with the wadding in between, then tighten the string until it fits securely around the base.
Stop stitching after 2cm and cut the binding with 4cm to spare. Tuck this end under, pin, finger press, then stitch over the folded edge. Press the binding away from the fabric, then towards the wrong side of the fabric, rolling the seam under slightly.
To secure, tightly tie a double bow and stitch a piece of elastic to either side of the cover. And there you have it! A wonderfully simple project that will make you smile every time you press a new garment.
Head over to tillyandthebuttons.com for the ingredients list and much more 26
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www.gillybee.co.uk • Gorgeous fabrics and sewing supplies for quilters, dressmakers and crafters. • Great customer service with buckets of inspiration & advice. • Stylecraft yarns and patterns. Toft Amigurumi kits and workshops. • Sewing workshops, GillyBee Absolute Beginners Dressmaking course & Sewing Café.
Use code SEWMAG19 for a 10% discount online and in the shop with this advert. Sign up to our newsletter for latest news & offers. Visit our shop to join our loyalty scheme.
Shop open Tues-Sat 9.00-5.30 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY Tel: 01603 716140 Located just outside Norwich a stone’s throw from the A47/Broadland Northway junction. We offer free parking next to the shop.
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Get cool, casual style with the
GEORGINA JACKET
Project exclusive to
sew!
Amanda Walker’s beautiful cropped jacket can be made using a soft wool material and is great for practising overlocking or zig zag stitch to inish of the edges. Spring might be just around the corner but there’s still a nip in the air, so this stylish layer is perfect for this time of year, plus you can jazz it up with a vibrant statement button from your haberdashery stash, too.
sew a
SWING JACKET Get started • Fabric, 2m (150cm) • Fusible interfacing • Button, 1
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one pair Back: cut two on the fold Front facing: cut one pair in main fabric and one in interfacing Collar: cut one pair in main fabric and one in interfacing 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
1
Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, print and follow the cutting guide. Lay the front jacket pieces on top of each other, right sides facing and matching the centre back collar. Stitch the seams together, then press the allowance open. Position the back jacket onto the front, matching the shoulder seams with right sides facing.
2
Clip to the dot marked on the front piece; this enables the back neck and the neck of the collar to align. Match to the dots on the back piece, then pin across the shoulders and neckline, matching the centre back neckline to the seam in the back of the collar. Stitch the seam together in one continuous line and press the seam allowance towards the front of the jacket across the shoulders.
3
Lay the front facing and collar pieces together, right sides facing and matching the centre back collar. Stitch this seam together, then press the allowance open. Lay the jacket flat, right sides together, then position the facing around the collar and down each front edge. Pin and stitch, starting at the base of the facing and continuing around the collar and down to the adjacent base front edge. At the edge of each facing, measure a 3.5cm hem and sew.
4
Trim the bulk from the corners, and clip the two corners of the collar and the areas just below the ends, then turn the facings to the inside of the jacket. Tease out the seams and press flat. Match the side seams on the front and back side edges together and stitch. Press the seams open. Match, pin and sew the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing, then press them open. 28
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sew DRESSMAKING
5
Place the sleeves, matching the notches, into the armholes of the jacket. Match the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeves together. Pin and stitch the sleeves in place. Clip to the dots marked on the facing and collar pattern pieces to release the neckline. Turn under the neck edge seam allowance of the back collar, facing, and the small areas that correspond to the shoulder seams.
sew free TEMPLATE download sewmag.co.uk /templates
6
Stitch this folded edge to the neckline of the jacket. Make a buttonhole in the position marked on the front pattern piece by hand-stitching the button to the adjacent place which is marked on the left-hand side. Neaten the base of the sleeves and jacket, then press up a 3.5cm hem, pin and handstitch to secure.
SI Z ES
8-20
Core skill: ZIG ZAG STITCH If you don’t own an overlocker, you can use a shallow zig zag stitch with a ballpoint or stretch needle. For curves like armholes, sew the seam using the correct allowance, then stitch another zig zag row next to it and trim any excess. For straight seams, zig zag the edges prior to sewing them together.
sew SHOPPER
HERO FABRIC This plain melange wool blend fabric in Silver is ideal for making into a little jacket to wear in spring when there’s still a bit of a chill in the air. £4.99 per metre, abakhan.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!
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Vest top, £3.99, hm.com; Jeans, £25, newlook.com; belt, £14, riverisland.com
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sewing
SoS Give your garment a professional touch with help from our experts
Q
I want to give the coat I’m making some extra pizzazz! How do I achieve this? Annie Wood
Claire says This month, there’s a huge emphasis on clothing embellishments. My tip would be to add some unique hand embroidery, but if you’re short on time, there are pre-embroidered fabrics and motifs just begging to be used! I’ve seen a lot of contrast collars and cufs on garments, with leece, shearling or faux furs working particularly well as the weather is still nippy. However, if you’re not up for hacking an existing pattern, why not opt for a garment which includes statement collar options? I recently discovered reverse appliqué thanks to the wonders of Instagram and American fashion designer, Alabama Chanin. Sew Over It’s Cocoon Coat, sewoverit.co.uk This is where you attach patches to the inside of a garment or fabric, then the outer material is cut away to reveal them; these can be adorned with sequins or scatters of beads to create a stunning efect! Another fun and easy style hack for your coat is to sew a tassel trim or fringing into the underarm seam and down the side. However, if you’re searching for a simpler alternative, why not use fabric that’s made from metallised yarn?
Q
How can I achieve pattern matching perfection on a garment?
Hilda Dyckziew
Kate says
Blue suit, jdwilliams. co.uk
Always buy more fabric than you need, as pattern matching tends to be on the wasteful side when cutting out. The best approach is to snip each piece individually, making sure you mirror all of them. You also have to decide which pieces are essential to pattern match as you can’t make all of them symmetrical; I ind that cutting out the front bodice irst helps me with this. Any pattern piece with curves, such as the hip of a skirt, can’t be matched, but so long as the straight part pairs up at the side seams, you won’t be able to tell! Stripe top, £22, bonmarche.co.uk 30
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Sadie dress, £349, hobbs.co.uk
here to
help
CLAIRE MASON
KATE UNDERDOWN
LISA COMFORT
Claire runs On Trend Fabrics, an online store with a passion for sewing, dressmaking and crafts!
The Fold Line is a sewing community website which provides daily inspiration through its blogs.
Lisa is an author, lifestyle blogger and the founder of the Londonbased stitchy shop Sew Over It.
ontrendfabrics.co.uk
thefoldline.com
sewoverit.co.uk
Q
How do I know where to add interfacing on a jacket?
Jane Poultney
Lisa says This depends on the fabric you’re using and the amount of drape versus the structure in the jacket. If you’re sewing a garment that has a crisp inish at the front, you’ll need to interface it diferently from a waterfall-style coat. I interface all facings and collars to add some structure, and I always add a strip to the main body of the garment and the sleeve hems to stop them from sagging. Basically, include it on any areas where the jacket will experience strain, such as pocket openings, zips and underneath buttonholes. As always, consider your fabric. If you’re using a bouclé wool, which has a very loose weave, you might need to interface all of the front pieces so they can maintain their shape. Keep in mind that adding it can afect the material’s properties, so a construction technique that requires malleability, such as princess seams or setting in a sleeve, will be a little trickier.
top 4
EMBELLISHMENTS One of the easiest and most efective ways to jazz up a jacket is to iron on a cool patch! These ones from the Old English Company come with empowering, motivational messages.
You go, girl Red and pink badge, £6
We got this Embroidered tiger patch, £6
Be fearless Iron-on heart badge, £6
tip! Avoid interfacing the seam allowances in areas that add flexibility to a garment, such as princess seams, so that you can manipulate the fabric. Mustard jacket, jdwilliams.co.uk
Friends forever Gold and white patch, £6
ALL PATCHES ARE FROM OLD ENGLISH COMPANY – VISIT OLDENGLISHPRINTS.COM FOR DETAILS.
Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it! 31
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Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL
SELF-COVERED BUTTONS There are so many ways to cover buttons; it’s a fantastic way to create perfectlycoordinated fastenings and accessories to use on everything from attire to cushion covers. While it’s possible to buy a variety of kits that include templates and tools to make the process quick and easy, these are often limited to just two or three sizes. Here, I’ll show you an alternative way to cover up any button – whatever the shape!
3
1
2
measure up
running stitch
Measure across the button, then cut a fabric circle twice this size across. You should also cut wadding to the same size as the button.
Take a needle and length of strong thread, then make a running stitch around the edge of the fabric.
4
5
gather & knot
secure neatly
suffolk puff
Place the wadding over the button, then secure with a dab of glue. Wrap the fabric around the button, pull the thread to gather.
If your button doesn’t come with a shank, sew it on through the fabric and wadding, feeling for the holes with the tip of the needle.
Create a decorative Sufolk puf by making a gathered circle measuring four times the size of the covered button.
For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com 32
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Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beauiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world. 10% o with Code SEWMAGFEB
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S T FR O M I N
DE
P E
T
H
E EB
N
SI Z
DE
NDIE pattern
6 ES
-20
NT
D E SI G N E R S
Joy Jacket ES
Diiculty: The Joy Jacket is a fully lined, relaxed it garment – ideal for keeping out the chill, without weighing you down when on the go. The centre front zip is exposed, and both views ofer optional drawstrings at the neck and hem.
SIZES 4 -2
SI Z
by Chalk & Notch 6-18
Interchangeable features also include a wide collar and cosy hood, and square or angled patch pockets for tucking away your essentials. From £12, chalkandnotch.com
8
Roksi Trio by Amy Nicole Studio
Kimberley Dress
Diiculty: The possibilities are truly endless with the Roski Trio! This 26-in-one pattern includes a crop top, tank, and dress that are all reversible. The silhouette is designed with extra swing to keep you cool in the heat, and each view can be layered over the other to create a tiered look. If you want an extra sewing challenge, you can also experiment with colour blocking and print mixing the layers.
by Athina Kakou Diiculty: Want to bring a touch of vintage to your look? Slip on the Kimberly Dress! Designed with lightweight wovens in mind, this gorgeous frock has a soft V-neckline and a twirling half circle skirt with a panel at the bottom. You can also get creative with optional in-seam pockets and a tie-belt at the waist, plus choose from two diferent sleeve lengths to best suit your style.
From £12, amynicolestudio.com
From £9, athinakakou.com 34
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sew DRESSMAKING
Taormine Blouse by Anne Kerdilès Couture Diiculty:
From £13, annekerdilescouture.com
Paper
Andolla Dress SI Z E S6
by Opian Diiculty:
-18
The Taormine Blouse is all about the little details. Each variation ofers an overlapping bodice, and intermediate dressmakers can choose from three quarter or long sleeves, and play with necklines: there’s a lounced collar that can be closed with a delicate button or a basic round design. Make the most of this top with fresh lightweight cottons and breathable rayons in fun loral prints.
Make this fabulous frock for your wardrobe and you’ll never face a whatto-wear dilemma again! Andolla ofers two simple options: version A is a itted dress with a jewel neckline, two sleeve lengths, bust darts, and delicate cut outs on the front of the bodice, as well as a skirt with regular knife pleats. While version B ofers the same winning combination with the option to create a skirt with irregular pleats.
S6
-20
SIZE S8
SIZ
E
From £9, opian.ch
Sierra Jumpsuit by Papercut Patterns
Paper
Diiculty: Spring into any season with a classic jumpsuit! It’s an easy-wear outit that features a sleeveless cross-over, polished of with a detail side waist tie and three diferent leg styles: including playsuit, full length and cropped at the ankles. Flex your sewing skills with an invisible zip fastening at side, inseam pockets and bust darts, then pair with the Papercut Patterns Rise and Fall Turtleneck. From £16, papercutpatterns.com
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0 -2
Lauren Guthrie’s
TOP TOOLS for beginner stitchers I
t's such an exciting time when you irst start dressmaking and begin to build up your sewing box with notions and gadgets. There are so many diferent things out there to make this process even easier, but it's important to get the basic essentials irst. These are my must-have starter items that I guarantee you will get use out of, whatever project you decide to stitch irst!
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2
4
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3 1 MEASURING
TAPE
2 CHALK PENCIL 3 ALUMINIUM SEAM GAUGE Marking your fabric with
4 DRESSMAKERS 5 SHARP PINS SHEARS Lovely, sharp new pins are
Purchase a tape that has inches and centimetres on the same side. Depending on what pattern you use and where it has come from, you'll often come across both units of measurement. £2.65, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
chalk is a common occurrence in dressmaking as you transfer patterns and draw out stitch guides. These Clover pencils come with a handy sharpener and brush for removing any marks, too. £7.95, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
Make sure you keep your scissors just for fabric use. I like tying a little ribbon on the handle of mine to remind myself (and all the other people in the house!) that they are just for material. £16.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
This durable seam gauge can help you measure and mark with ease, by keeping an even seam allowance and making pressing up hems simple as the iron can get close without damaging it. £4.60, guthrie-ghani.co.uk 36
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a must for dressmakers as it'll help you avoid getting snags in your fabric. I like the glass headed ones as again it means you can get the iron close to them without any risk of melting. £4.95, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Sewing with rayon challis 3 Creating pleats 3 Adding bell sleeves
sew DRESSMAKING
sew masterclass
Embrace 70s style with the
FLORENCE DRESS This gorgeous floral print dress by Fiona Hesford incorporates a timeless shift shape, beautiful bell sleeves and a flattering V-neck to create a retro-inspired garment which can easily be dressed up or down. You’ll be able to practise sewing pleats on the sleeves and work with silky rayon challis to reproduce this darling vintage look.
Get started • Fabric: 1.7m (140cm) • Lining fabric, 1.1m
Pattern exclusive to
Sizes 8-18
sew!
Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut two, with one on the fold Sleeve: cut two, with one on the fold Sleeve frill: cut two on the fold Lining front: cut one on the fold Lining back: cut two, with one on the fold 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
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stitch a BELL SLEEVE DRESS Sewing the front and back
Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING Visit sewmag.co.uk/templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings onto the fabric. l When cutting rayon challis, place a layer of tissue paper underneath to prevent it from shifting. l To mark the material, use tailor tacks, a tracing wheel or a chalk marker. l Remember to trim 2cm from the lower hem edge on the front and back lining pieces. l
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5
6
Finish the raw edge, press and sew the darts on the front piece, then iron downwards. Stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams, right sides together, then inish the raw edges.
Stay-stitch the front and back neck edge, then sew the waist darts in the back and press them towards the centre. Stitch the back pieces together at the centre back edge, right sides together.
Press the seams towards the back and sew the front to the back at the side edges below the armhole, right sides together. Finish the raw edges, press, then repeat for the lining.
Stitching the lining
4
Pin the lining to the dress at the neck edge only, right sides together, then handtack and sew. Use extra-ine glass head pins for this step as you don’t want to leave visible holes in this lightweight material.
Nick the seam allowance at the V-neck point on the centre front to reduce the bulk and make the neckline more lexible. Turn the dress to the right side, press and match the seamline to the fold.
Carefully pin the dress to the lining at the armhole edge with wrong sides together, then hand-tack in place to secure. Use a contrasting coloured thread for tacking to make it easily visible when you need to remove it.
Making the sleeves and hem
7 Make this stylish frock part of your capsule closet
Finish the raw straight horizontal edge of each sleeve and the top of the cuf. Pin the pleats at the top inished edge of the sleeve cuf using the diagram on the template as a guide, then machinetack. Pin the sleeve frills at the pleated edge to the lower edge of the sleeves, then sew and press.
8
Fold the sleeve, right sides together and matching the side edges. Stitch the side and inish of the raw edges, then press. Make a 1cm hem at the lower edge of the cuf. Machine-tack at the sleeve head, 15mm from the raw edge. Pull the threads to lightly ease up the fabric.
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9
Hand-tack and sew around the armhole, taking care not to sew in any of the folds as you stitch. Remove the tacking, inish the raw edges of the armhole and press. Make a 2cm hem at the lower edge of the lining and dress, or adjust the length as required.
sew DRESSMAKING
sew free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
SIZE
S
Necklace, £22.50, marksandspencer.com
18 8-
sew SHOPPER ************************
Core Skill: STAYSTITCHING Staystitching is a row of regular straight stitches made inside the seam allowance on areas that you don’t want to stretch out of shape while you are working on them. You generally need to staystitch places that are cut on the bias, such as necklines and curved princess seams.
MUSTARD YELLOW Nothing says spring quite like a striking yellow print! That’s why we think this Dovestone Rayon Dress Fabric in Mustard is perfect for making up this beautiful bell sleeve number. £14.90, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk
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! E N I g n i w H e s r C u o y A m r o f M Trans
r u o y e v o L
SEWIST 740DC
You’ll be speeding through sewing projects in no time EASY-SET with the Sewist 740DC BOBBIN machine! With its easy threading system, LED lighting and high-lift presser foot to help when stitching with bulky fabrics, you’ll have everything you need to make sewing simple. This model also has three automatic one-step buttonholes, 20 direct pattern selection keys, a built-in stitch reference chart and so much more! Price: £499
AUTOTHREAD CUTTER
Treat yourself to a
machine!
JANOME 4300QDC
Release your creative potential with the Janome 4300QDC! This machine is wellequipped with 300 stitches, including alphabet and one-step buttonholes, a twin-needle function, an automatic thread cutter and a superior sevenpiece feed system – and it doesn’t stop there! The model also ofers an easy-to-use needle threader and adjustable foot pressure. Price: £599
196
JANOME ATELIER 6
BUILT-IN STITCHES
Looking to take your sewing skills to the next level? This computerised free arm machine is designed to do just that! Its 196 built-in stitches, 9mm stitch width, large LCD display screen, easy-set bobbin and high-quality fabric feeding system will ensure a professional inish on all of your projects, whether they be dressmaking or homeware. Price: £1,099 40
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sew PROMOTION
KEY FEATURES: 3 3 3 3 3 3
Eight-piece feed dog LED light Snap-on presser foot Built-in needle threader Colour coded threading guide Easy rolled hem conversion
EXPERT FINISH AIR THREADING!
This brand-new machine from Janome makes overlocking so straightforward; simply push the lever so the air can blow the threads through the loops, and away you go! This model will deliver a professional finish to your seams every time, plus it’s simple to change the thread by just lifting and lowering the ratchet lever. The machine also has other useful benefits, including an LED light, colour coded threading system and an easy roll hem conversion, to name a few. AirThread 2000D PROFESSIONAL Overlocker, £899. Find your local stockist at janome.co.uk
“Take your sewing skills to the next level with the AirThread 2000D Professional Overlocker”
OUR EDITOR’S PICK!
SHOP of the
MONTH White Rose Sewing & Craft Centre is a family-run business which
JANOME HD9 Got a need for speed? The Janome HD9 machine is deinitely the one for you! The model allows you to sew your projects quickly at 1,600spm using straight stitch and can hold 40 per cent more thread than a standard sewing machine. It also ofers a side loading rotary hook, an LED light, remote thread cutter port and heavyweight thread guide. Price: £999
has just celebrated its 40th birthday. This independent store situated in the quaint North Yorkshire town of Harrogate stocks a whole host of sewing essentials, including spare machine parts and accessories, haberdashery, Horn cabinets, and of course, the latest Janome machines. The company also ofers a repair service on all kinds of Janome models, and helps out the wider community by providing this service to schools and colleges within the region, too.
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WHAT’S ON OFFER? 3 Wide range of Janome machines 3 Spare parts and accessories 3 Sewing and knitting essentials 3 Haberdashery items 3 Horn cabinets 3 Servicing and repairs Visit White Rose Sewing & Craft Centre, 3 Commercial Street, Harrogate, HG1 1UB. Alternatively, visit whiterosesewing.com or call 01423 503767.
Stitch the Look
WHY NOT TRY? 1
ELEGANT LACE Season after season, lace appears in our stash ready to be made into a floaty number for summer or a decadent party dress for a special occasion. This delicate material was crafted in all kinds of threads from linen and silk, to silver and gold during the 16th century – a time when lace adorned men’s collars and covered women’s entire gowns. But although lace may still conjure up these images of luxury, these material is now widely available and reasonably priced!
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3
Lace dress, £90, little-mistress. com
4
5
1 Diamanté lace in Rose, £6.95 per metre 2 Butterfly lace in Blue, £9.95 per metre 3 Plain lace in Green, £10.99 per metre 4 Daisy lace in Pink, £9.95 per metre 5 Raschel lace in Yellow, £4.50 per metre
“There are so many diferent types of lace: ine, stretch, corded and embellished, just to name a few, and it can be made from all kinds of materials. It’s one of our favourite fashion trends because it’s perfect for evening-wear, such as diamante gowns, or for casual attire like tees with decorative lace sleeves.”
All of the featured fabrics are available from abakhan.co.uk
Ann Robinson, fabric buyer at Abakhan 42
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sew DRESSMAKING
Get easy-breezy style with the
CARA TOP
SIZE S
20 8-
Few pieces captivate in quite the same way as a silky occasion top, which creates natural movement in abundance, as well as evoking the grace and refinement of twenties glamour. This sleeveless style from Amanda Walker creates a graceful silhouette that falls in a cloud of sumptuous draping. Thanks to its intriguing neck fastening, it draws attention to the back, whilst also gathering delicately in front to accentuate the shoulder line, too.
sew free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
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stitch a BACK-TIE TOP Get started • Silky fabric, 1.2m (150cm)
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one pair Front facing: cut one on the fold Back facing: cut one pair Tie neck: cut a strip, 10cm x 150cm 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated
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Download and print the template from sewmag. co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Match, pin and stitch the shoulder seams of the front top to the back pieces, right sides together, then press the seam allowances open. Pin and sew the shoulder seams of the front facing to the back facing, right sides together. Press the allowances open again. Match the main top armholes to the facing armholes, right sides together, then pin and stitch. Clip around the curved seam allowance, then turn the top out by threading the back parts through the shoulders. Tease out the seam allowance around the armholes, then press lat. After neatening the side seam edges and centre back edges, match the side seams together, pin and sew from the base of the top up to the underarm, then into the open edges of the facings. Make sure the armhole seams are open and matching when stitching this seam, then press open. Pin the back seams, then sew as far as the notch for the back opening and press the seam open. Stitch the base of the back facing as far as the notch, then match each edge of the facing opening to the opening of the main back. Stitch in place, then turn the facing inside the top, tease out the seams and press lat. Neaten the edges of the facings in one continuous line around the base of the front and back. Fold the facing inside under the arms and hand-stitch to stop it rolling out. Pin the edges of the facing neckline to the main top. Make two lines of gathering stitches between the notches indicated. Pull the thread up to form gathers, so that the area measures 7.5cm. Find the centre of the tie strip and the centre front of the neckline. With the right sides of the tie and top together, pin and stitch the tie to the neckline as far as the centre back opening. Fold the tie ends in half lengthways, right side inside. Pin the edges together and sew the end, then pivot and stitch up the length of the tie. Repeat for the remaining tie, then cut of the corners. Turn the ties out through the open neckline. Tease out the seams and press lat. Press in the seam allowance on the open edge of the tie, around the neck, then hand-sew to the neckline, sandwiching the raw edges of it inside. Fold and press in 1cm around the base edge of the top, then another 3cm. Pin and edgestitch the hem in place.
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sew DRESSMAKING
tip! The gathered neckline incorporates main and facing layers, which would be bulky if a heavier fabric was used.
sew
SHOPPER ************************
DAINTY DESIGNS The dreamy drape of peachskin gives delightful handle and shape, combining comfort and luxe appeal. Try the dainty baby-pink outlines of John Kaldor Floral, the clean, modern criss-cross of Linear Print Cream, or candy coloured John Kaldor Lilac. From ÂŁ6.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping! 45
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Slow Stitch Relax and reap the beneits of mindful making Words by Sophie Demetriades
M
indfulness is a term which is often bandied about these days, but what exactly does it mean? According to the trusty OED, it refers to ‘a mental state achieved by concentrating on the present moment, while calmly accepting feelings and thoughts.’ It’s so easy to get swallowed up in the hustle and bustle of everyday life, meaning that when it comes to crafts, we often lose sight of the calming efects of hand-stitching. Why hand-sew when a machine can do it quicker, right? Wrong. Mindful making takes mindfulness a step further, as author of Slow Stitch Claire Wellesley-Smith explains: “I see this approach as a celebration of the process; work that has relection at its heart and skill that takes time to learn.” With this in mind, it’s time for you to sit back, relax and read on to ind out how you can incorporate the slow method into your next crafty project!
Mending Matters: Stitch, Patch, and Repair Your Favorite Denim & More by Katrina Rodabaugh, (Abrams, £18.99). Photography by Karen Pearson.
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3Easy embroidery
If you’re looking for a way to unwind, then explore the slow rhythms of simple hand-embroidery. Use your sewing journal to experiment with diferent types of stitches, then apply them to a new project. Begin by jazzing up the collar of a top or creating this decorative loral bird design on the back of an old denim shirt. sewmag.co.uk
Make do & mend
Mending can come in many forms, but three up-andcoming techniques are wabi-sabi stitching, Japanese boro and sashiko. The wabi-sabi concept appreciates the imperfect and impermanent, and when it comes to crafting, it’s about accepting that there will be mistakes, but these are what make projects interesting and ultimately, unique – so why not make a feature of them? Japanese boro and sashiko are great ways to do this, as they focus on mending with patches and geometric stitches to transform those former imperfections into stand-out designs.
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Piece by peace
Hand-sewn patchwork and paper piecing are ideal for putting your mind at ease and adding meaning to your projects. You can use leftover material from around your home which have a speciic memory imbued in them — why not transform these scraps into a cosy quilt or accessory like this patchwork over-the-shoulder bag? sewmag.co.uk
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The three Rs
Reduce, reuse, recycle – do you remember this old maxim? Slow stitching holds these values close to its heart, encouraging a mindful approach towards the environment. Using materials you already own will enable you to generate new ideas, as Claire explains: “For me, imposing limits has built and inspired creativity and has given me new ways of approaching materials.” There’s so many fabrics out there begging to be repurposed so don’t be afraid to experiment and see where your creativity takes you – and remember, it doesn’t have to be perfect! Have a go at creating these reusable beeswax wraps from just a few scraps of material. youtube.com/user/ TheCraftsChannel
2Write on track
Stitching by hand on a regular basis is incredibly therapeutic, so why not start a daily sewing journal? It’s a wonderful way to make a visual note of diferent stitch styles, plus you can even use it to record cherished memories using shapes and colours. Make a start on your sewing diary by whipping up a cover using this embroidered notebook project. sewmag.co.uk 46
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Get started • Fabric, 50cm; fabric scraps • Wadding • Eyelets, 2 • Leather ties, 2
Cuting guide Main fabric: cut eight, 7.6cm x 10cm; four, 21.5cm squares; two, 6.3cm x width of fabric, cut one 21.5cm piece from each, leaving the remaining lengths uncut Cross centre: cut two, 3.8cm square Cross arm: cut four, 3.8cm x 7.6cm; four, 3.8cm x 10cm Wadding: cut two, 16.5cm x 21.5cm; two, 21.5cm Front lining: cut two, 15.5cm x 21.5cm
LEND A HAND IN THE KITCHEN WITH
pot holdes Take a leaf out of Karen Lewis’ book, author of Wabi-Sabi Sewing, and stitch a pair of pot holders from just a few fabric scraps in your stash. This project will have you practising how to insert eyelets, quilting and binding, plus you can use up leftover leather from previous makes for the hanging loop. It’s fairly quick to sew, but remember to take your time and be mindful when creating this pretty and practical household essential.
Stitch pot holders
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Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. With right sides together, sew one cross arm, 3.8cm x 7.6cm, between two main fabric rectangles, 7.6cm x 10cm. Repeat to make an identical piece. With right sides together, sew one of the cross centres between two of the cross arms, 3.8cm x 10cm. Stitch the three pieces together and press. Make a quilt sandwich with the front lining, wadding, 16.5cm x 21.5cm, and pieced front, then quilt as desired. Take one strip, 6.3cm x 21.5cm, and make binding to add to the long top edge of the pot holder front. Make a quilt sandwich with two 21.5cm squares of main fabric and a 21.5cm square of wadding, then quilt as desired. With lining sides facing, pin together the pot holder front and back with the lower edges aligned. After turning the longer 6.3cm strip into binding, stitch it all the way around the pot holder. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, attach an eyelet to one corner of the pot holder and thread the leather tie through it to make a hanger. Knot the leather or add a rivet. Repeat the steps above to make the second pot holder.
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get the book For more mindful stitching projects, grab a copy of Wabi-Sabi Sewing by Karen Lewis, (£15.99, F&W Media).
To find tips on mindful making, purchase Slow Stitch by Claire Wellesley-Smith, (£22.95, Batsford).
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Discover more repairing advice in Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh, (Abrams, £18.99). Photography by Karen Pearson.
Download your digital patterns in
4 EASY STEPS! Add a stitchy touch to your craft space with these FREE patterns!
FIRST, LOG IN OR SIGN UP
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STORAGE TOTE
Keep your embroidery needles safely tucked away in a fun storage case.
Neatly keep your fat quarters out of sight in this oversized storage bag.
...which you will ind under the main image.
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JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’
You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our previous issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates ‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets!
HANDY TOOL BELT
ORIGAMI BOXES
On the move? No problem! Slip on this accessory that’s packed with pockets.
Pop reels of thread and other odds and ends in these fold-and-go desk pots.
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HAVE FUN PAPER PIECING A Get started • Fabric, assorted prints • White felt • Cotton webbing, 2m
Cuting guide White felt: 40cm x 43cm Front: cut assorted prints to make up one 40cm x 43cm rectangle Back: cut one, 40cm x 43cm Lining: cut two, 40cm x 43cm Pocket: cut one, 36cm x 44cm
patchwork tote A cheerful shopper is an excellent eco-friendly alternative to the usual plastic bag, not to mention a stellar way to stretch your sewing skillset, too. Inspired by stain glass windows, this pretty design works best in vibrant colours and patterns. It also has a useful pocket on the back that you could use to stow away an umbrella or a mini bouquet.
Sew a patchwork tote
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Place white felt in a portrait layout and mark several straight diagonal lines from the top left-hand corner, then divide between the lines to create shards. Sketch the layout to remind you how to put the sections back together. Cut out each section to form the piecing templates. Decide what fabric will cover which shape and tack directly onto the felt. With all of the pieces prepared, whip stitch them together, making sure you catch the edges of the encased felt. The felt will remain inside the bag to add padding and will not be removed. Fold the umbrella pocket fabric in half lengthways, right sides facing, and pin to secure. Machine-stitch 1cm away from the raw edge along only one of the 22cm sides. Turn this through and press the seam flat. Place the pocket onto the bottom right-hand corner of the backing fabric, matching the raw edges of the backing and the pocket. Sew the pocket into position along the folded edge. With right sides facing, pin the bag front to the backing and machine-stitch together, 1cm away from the raw edge, and leave the top of the bag open. Place the lining pieces, right sides together, and sew the side and bottom edges, leaving a 12.5cm opening at the bottom for turning. Cut two 79cm lengths of cotton webbing for handles. Pin the edges of one piece to the right side of the bag front, 6cm from the side seams, hanging into the inside-out bag. Repeat for the back. Turn the bag lining right side out and insert right sides together into the bag, matching and pinning the side seams. Machine-stitch around the entire opening 1cm away from the raw edge. Turn
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tip! Make yours with a selection of Liberty prints from sewcreative.co.uk
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get the the bag right side out through the hole in the lining. Sew the hole closed using a whip stitch and matching thread. Tease out the corners of the bag using a knitting needle and topstitch around the opening of the bag, 5mm away from the edge, then remove the tacking threads. 49
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book
Hooked on English paper piecing? You can find 17 more quick projects in Love to Sew: Quilting on the Move by Alistair McDonald. £7.99, searchpress.com
SHOW A LITTLE LOVIN’ WITH
Susie Johns’ VALENTINE’S SCROLL
Get started • Fabric: white cotton, 24cm x 31cm; yellow cotton backing, 24cm x 31cm • Embroidery thread, six-strand: primrose yellow, yellow ochre, light green, dark green, pink, violet • Bobble braid, 25cm • Narrow ribbon, 40cm • Dowel, 30cm • Erasable pen • Embroidery needle • Embroidery hoop
Blending sugary sweet colours with a heartfelt sentiment, this wall hanging is brought to life with scroll stitch, which helps to create a textured line – ideal for decorative flower stems. It’s been used in combination with satin stitch to make delicate blooms and butterflies, too.
Project exclusive to
sew!
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Scroll Stitch
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Bring out the needle at the left end of the stitch line. Moving a short distance along the line towards the right, pick up a tiny piece of fabric, inserting the tip of the needle on the lower side of the line and bring it out again on the other side. Keep the thread below the needle, without pulling it out. Wrap the thread around to form a loop, then pull the needle out of the fabric to form a small knot. Once again, move a short distance along the line towards the right. Pick up a tiny piece of fabric, wrap the thread around the tip of the needle to form a loop, and pull out to create a knot. Repeat to the end of the line. The stitches should resemble a stem with little knots at intervals.
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Embroider the design
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Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk, then transfer the motif to the centre of white fabric using an erasable pen. Place a section of the fabric into an embroidery hoop and thread the crewel needle with two strands of dark green. Following the lines that you have drawn, embroider in scroll stitch. Using two strands of violet, outline the butterlies in scroll stitch, then the lines along their wings. Embroider the antennae with two strands of yellow ochre in scroll stitch. Fill in the leaves, lower petals and butterly bodies in satin stitch.
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Use two strands of thread, as before, refer to the picture of the inished embroidery as a guide – or use your own choice of colours. Move the hoop to a diferent section as you complete each area of the design. When you have inished the embroidery, remove the hoop and trim the fabric, if necessary. Wash away the drawn lines with cold water and leave to dry, then press on the reverse.
a 1cm seam. Stitch the other three sides, leaving a gap of 15mm between the top seam and top of the side seam on both sides; this will create a narrow channel so that you can insert the rod. Leave a 10cm gap on the bottom edge, so you can turn the fabric right sides out. Clip the corners and turn right sides out, then press. Sew a length of bobble braid along the lower edge. Topstitch 15mm from the top edge to form a channel, then insert the rod. Tie the ends of the ribbon to either end of the rod. Stitch a bobble and cut from the remaining braid to neaten.
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Make the hanging
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Place the embroidery and backing fabric right sides together. Join the top edges, sewing right across the top with
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sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
“This embroidered Valentine is a beautiful alternative to a greeting’s card and can be displayed on the wall all year round” Susie Johns, Sew designer
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sew PROMOTION
The team’s top picks for February
Wish Lis t
Valentine’s Day is right around the corner, and this month Sew has decided to celebrate the one true love of your life: stitching! February’s picks bring you the very best items to set your heart fluttering, including personalised tees and colourful kits, plus you’ll find a very special necklace that lets everyone know what a fabulous crafter you are! Remember, all you need is love. And fabric, patterns, haberdashery...
Mettler Magic
Mistley Prints is the one-stop watercolour shop for personalised stationery. The UKbased illustrator, Freya hand-paints all of her products and each one is created in vibrant colours to bring a much-needed dose of summer to the dreariest of days. With new notebooks added regularly, you’ll always have a place to jot down upcoming stitchy projects! £6, mistleyprints.co.uk
This polyester thread will make sure that you and your clothes dazzle! The item comes in a whole host of colours, works well on fabrics such as cotton, synthetics, linen or silk, and its high tensile strength makes the universal Seralon a reliable tool for all of your creations! amann-mettler.com
Bee Inspired
Fabric Heaven We can’t get enough of Stoff & Stil’s jersey fabric! The navy material with glitter birds is incredibly lightweight and would look so sweet made into a pair of children’s slouchy bottoms. Whereas the powder pink fabric contains a hint of glamour with the glittery dots – perhaps you can turn it into a Valentine’s dress? From £11.50 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk
Step into spring with Oh Sew Bootiful’s bees embroidery kit! The colourful project is made up of six different stitches, all with illustrated instructions – it’s perfect for someone who wants to take their basic embroidery skills up a notch. The real icing on the cake is that the design is pre-printed onto cotton, meaning that there’s no need for fiddly tracing! £18.50, etsy.com
Stitcher & Proud You know that feeling of pride when you complete a fabulous garment? Well, now you can wear that sentiment every day. Introducing the sewist necklace: it’s available in high-quality 18k gold or silver and can be worn on its own or layered with the equally beautiful maker necklace! £39, closetcasepatterns.com
Blo omtifinul’ B eau
Twinning Is Winning Drum roll please, the trend for personalised gifts has arrived! Sew Sian’s fresh take on the classic tee sports a subtle script font across the front which can be personalised with any name and coloured text. But that’s not all – there’s also tops in adult sizes, so you can twin with your little one! Child’s personalised tee, £12.95; adult’s, £14.95, sewsian.com
Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 52
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“Before I make a garment I ask myself, ‘Do I love this? Do I need this? Could I wear this for five years?” Meet Katrina Rodabaugh, the woman turning the spotlight on preloved denim Founder of the Make Thrift Mend movement, Katrina Rodabaugh
Words by Lucy Jobber
A
rtist, writer and self-confessed crafter, Katrina Rodabaugh is championing the art of sustainable clothing. Whether it’s transforming jean jackets with Japanese stitching or growing plants for eco-friendly dyeing at her Hudson Valley home, Katrina is constantly immersed in projects that focus on the upcycling sensibility. “I’ve been sewing and crafting for as long as I can remember – my training started at the side of my mother’s sewing machine as a child,” she explains. “But I didn’t focus on mending and sustainable fashion until I had heard about the Rana Plaza garment factory that collapsed and killed more than a thousand workers in Dhaka, Bangladesh and I started my slow fashion project, Make Thrift Mend, shortly thereafter.”
MENDING MATTERS “When I launched Make Thrift Mend I was looking to pause my consumption while I focused on making garments, buying secondhand and mending what I owned.
Katrina’s essential sewing kit: ✯ Sashiko thread and needles ✯ Sharp fabric scissors
✯ Thimbles ✯ Small wooden ruler ✯ Needle-nose pliers
I started by repairing my jeans, however I quickly realised that denim is typically considered casual wear and folks are willing to use visible mending on jeans in a way they might not for a suit jacket or evening wear. So, this fabric became a great choice.” Slow fashion is quickly taking centre-stage in the public conscience, but it hasn’t always been this way. As Katrina shares: “It was only after the April 2013 tragedy at Rana Plaza that there was a swell of activism and interest for slow fashion, and I think that concern for ethical labour, sustainable ibres, and thoughtful wardrobes really increased as a result.”
towards a more eco-friendly wardrobe, what advice does Katrina have to ofer? “The irst thing is to assess what you already have and pause your consumption. This applies to newly purchased or handmade garments. Before I buy, redesign, or make a garment I try to ask, ‘Do I love this? Do I need this? Could I wear this for ive years?’. If so, then I proceed. If not, I keep designing or delay my buy. Ultimately, the most sustainable thing we can do for our wardrobe is to value the clothes, keep them in good condition, and prevent them from going into the landill. If we just start with that very next garment, it’s a manageable step that can ultimately have a huge impact.”
PATCH TO PERFECTION “Visible mending is a form of resistance against mass-consumption, instead of tossing the garment away we can ix it, use design elements, make it beautiful, and keep wearing it with pride as a fast-fashion alternative. I think hand-stitching is a beautiful act – it requires basic tools, it’s silent, portable, and adaptable to large projects like quilts or smaller projects like an elbow patch. Also, there’s something meditative about slow hand-stitching which calms the mind.” Katrina’s latest project is her newlyreleased book, Mending Matters: a title that explores the many diferent, yet simple, ways to transform neglected denim into wearable works of art. “I teach mending with just three simple stitches: straight, running and whipstitch, – and I organised my book by techniques like external patches, internal patches and sashiko, plus darning or improvised weaving. With basic stitches, technical tips, and design considerations, there are truly endless combinations for repairs. I teach mending workshops across the United States so I have the beneit of learning from hundreds of people – there’s been a great research and development phase with each garment featured in the book.” So for those of us embarking on a journey 53
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Have fun repairing your favourite pair of jeans
get the book Discover 20 hands-on denim repair projects, plus in-depth techniques, in Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh (Abrams, £18.99) amazon.co.uk
GET PRETTY AND PRACTICAL STYLE WITH A
Get started • Faux leather, 50cm • Jacquard fabric, 50cm • Zip, 25cm • Three rings, 1cm diameter • Tassel • Chain, 125cm • Two snap hooks
Cuting guide
Front: cut one from leather Back: cut one from leather Front pocket: cut one on the fold from jacquard Back pocket: cut one on the fold from jacquard Front lining: cut one on the wrong side from jacquard Back lining: cut one on the wrong side from jacquard Ring loops: cut two from leather
Sew a zip-up bag
tasled bag In the 1920s, the handbag came into its own when women craved a practical solution for carrying money, make-up and other essentials. Nearly a century later, and this two-tone clutch is the new accessory on the block as its removable chain clip makes styling possibilities endless! This project is great for stitchers who want to master new skills, such as inserting snap hooks, adding embellishments and using pliers, plus the step-by-step photos make stitching this over-the-shoulder a breeze!
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Download the template from sewmag.co.uk, print and follow the cutting guide. Place the zip on the front panel, right sides together, and lay the front lining on top, right sides together, sandwiching the zip in between the fabric, then pin. Stitch using a zip presser foot, and repeat for the back panels. [Fig. 1] Turn in 1cm along the long edges of the loop pieces and fold them lengthways, then press. Topstitch, 1mm from the edge, then pass each piece through the ring and fold in half to form the loop. Crease the two pocket panels along the fold lines and place them on the front and back panels. [Fig. 2] Stitch around the pieces, 10mm from the edge, to secure. Position and attach the two loops, holding the rings on each side, then sew the front to the back, right sides together. Attach the front lining to the back one, right sides together, leaving a 10cm opening in the seam at the bottom. [Fig. 3] Turn right sides out and hand slip-stitch the bottom of the bag. Take two pairs of flat-nose pliers; use one to hold the chain and the other to pull it open, then insert the snap hook. Open the second ring in the same way, pass it through the zip pull hole and add the tassel. [Fig. 4]
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sew gifts
sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
get the
book
Add a splash of contemporary style to your outfits with one of the 20 bag designs included in A Beginner’s Guide to Bag Making. This project book by Estelle Zanatta and Marion Grandamme is jam-packed with techniques, too. £12.99, searchpress.com
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HOW TO ACHIEVE THE
Perfect — Finish ENTER A DRESSMAKER OF THE YEAR GARMENT YOU’LL BE PROUD OF! At Sew HQ, we want you to be over the moon with each garment you create. That’s why we’ve rounded-up leading industry experts, including Savile Row tailor and Sewing Bee star Patrick Grant, to provide you with invaluable advice for achieving professional-looking linings, hems, embellishments and more – you name it, they’ve got the hack for it! We’re sure you’re itching to find out the stitchy know-hows, so turn the page for some exclusive fit and finish tips!
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SEWING BEE’S Patrick Grant Describe what ‘quality’ means to you. “High quality starts with the right fabric; be that hard-wearing and robust, or soft and luxurious. I believe that only natural materials can be of excellent standard, such as wool, sustainably-grown cotton, silk and leather.”
What makes a garment long-lasting and durable?
One of the most important things about your Dressmaker of the Year entry is the photo you snap of it! To help you out, here are some top-tips for taking that winning pic... ✷ A garment often looks better on the person who it’s been made for, so make sure you ask them to strike a pose in it for you! Or if you can’t find a willing model, photograph it on a hanger or a mannequin against a plain background. ✷ You don’t necessarily need a camera to take a super snap; use your phone with the flash turned on for a clearer pic. ✷ Daylight is your best friend! However, we know the sun isn’t always guaranteed in the UK, so go to the brightest room in your house for a high quality photo – a nifty trick is to use a board covered with tinfoil to reflect any harsh light and to avoid shadows.
“That’s simple! Sew with correct and sturdy seams, and use the right stitch length. Trousers tend to get worn-out quickly, so at Savile Row we employ heavier cloths in more substantial constructions, whereas jackets tend to only wear on the elbows, collar and sleeve ends which means we can use fine wools and cottons.”
Name three things you look for in a well-crafted garment. “It’s hard to pick just three because everything needs to be done so meticulously. That being said, I’d single out under and top pressing, perfectly opened and elegant seams, neat edge finishing and well-executed darts to achieve a crisp finish.”
What fine details catch your eye? “Definitely hand-finishing! The textile workers at eco-friendly retailer Community Clothing and I always edge stitch, add linings and sew buttonholes entirely by hand. But honestly, we do it so well that you’d never notice!”
Tell us your top tips for attaching a lining by hand. “It’s so important that the lining isn’t tight horizontally or vertically as this will distort the garment – you need just enough ease for movement and comfort, but not so much that the inside drapes.”
Community Clothing’s skilled workers hand-finish all of the garments, communityclothing.co.uk
DOTY WINNER Jennie Stones Congratulations on being the 2018 champion! What gave your frock the winning edge? “Thank you! I assumed the judges would be inspecting the garment’s construction, such as the cut, linings, zip attachment and the overall finish, so I made sure I completed all of them to a high standard!”
How did you achieve those perfect pleats? “Assembling them involved a lot of measuring, pinning and tacking, but the key is to take your time; we all learn a few shortcuts as stitchers but for pleats, you can’t cut corners! I always measure, pin, tack, measure again and check the grain lines to ensure that everything is flawless.”
The pattern matching was amazing, please share your top tips with us! ✷ Savvy stitcher Fiona Hesford has the right idea by photographing her garments against a white, textured wall.
“For the layout, I began by pattern matching the main pieces: the front, shoulder line and zip placement on the bodice back. When cutting out the skirt, I folded the fabric on the 60
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centre line to make sure the spots lined-up with the bodice ones. To pattern match the pleats, I also had to make a small width adjustment.”
SPONSORED BY Fiona’s tie-belt is an excellent addition! Pattern, £12.50, sewgirl.co.uk
Pressing is vital for elements such as the collar and pockets, £189, hobbs.co.uk
Aneka recommends that you always make a toile.
SEWGIRL — Fiona Hesford Is the inside of a garment as important as the outside? “Absolutely! Some items, such as coats and skirts benefit from adding a lining to finish off the inside, whereas cardigans and kimonos expose the wrong side seam allowances, so they need French seams or Hong Kong binding to complete the interior.”
Have you got any wise words on achieving the perfect fit? “If possible, make up a toile using calico before creating the actual garment; this means you can adjust the pattern if necessary. Alternatively, pin together the pattern at the seam allowances and fit it to your body; you’ll see immediately if there is anything that needs adjusting – I use the ‘pivot and slide’ technique to make alterations.”
What unique touch is a winner for you? “Oh, there are so many! I use vintage buttons for an exceptional finish, and I stitch handmade woven labels onto all of my garments. Adding appliqué shapes onto skirts, adorning hems in trimming and quilting fabrics are also bound to get the judges’ attention!”
Pattern matching is essential! Dress, £329, hobbs.co.uk
For that extra wow-factor, choose an embellished fabric or add your own!
MADE TO SEW’S Aneka Truman Is it OK to overlock the inside of a garment? “If overlocking is the best finishing technique for your fabric and pattern, then go for it! Just remember to pick a thread that complements the materials and plan when to overlock each seam; for example, I try not to overlock in a circle unless I absolutely have to!”
Share your measuring dos and don’ts. “Do: check the pattern’s finished garment
measurements before stitching it in your size, and remember to measure existing clothes at the bust, waist and hip to ensure the perfect fit. Don’t guess your size; some pattern companies add more ease than others so you may need to alter yours.”
Pressing can be such a chore! Is it really necessary? “Whatever you do, never skip this step! Sew one seam, then press it to achieve a professional finish. Also, make sure that you use the correct pressing motion: place a heavy iron onto the fabric and add steam – don’t move the iron back and forth!”
Alison Smith MBE When is the right time to do a full bust adjustment?
“If you have a bigger bust than the ready-to-wear measurement, you’ll need to do a FBA. To do this, choose a pattern with Simply take a clear photo of your your upper-bust garment and enter it at measurement in mind and make sewmag.co.uk/dressmakeroftheyear. the FBA. If you Contestants can enter all of the pick a larger categories (Everyday, Occasion, size, it will be Vintage, Upcycling and Children’s too big around wear) with multiple garments, so long the shoulders and neck, and that as each one is different! All entries won’t look must be received by professional!”
HOW TO ENTER
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What pressing equipment should we all own? “Everyone should have a seam roll to hand for pressing sleeves and legs, as well as a ham for ironing curves and darts. A heavy steam iron and a pressing cloth in silk organza or muslin are also essential items!”
There are so many types of hem! Which is your favourite? “A hand-stitched hem is my go-to, but it depends on the fabric and style. For example, use a rolled hem on a chiffon skirt, and complete a jersey top with cover stitch. Some hems, such as those on jackets and coats, require interfacing for extra structure.”
A MACHINE COVER AND IRONING MAT WRAPPED UP IN A HANDY
Get started • Fabric: fat eighth, dark blue, orange, purple, red; fat quarter, teal, blue, light green, green, pink, dark purple; 1m white cotton; 30.5cm grey cotton; ironing surface fabric, 1.4m • Wadding • Canvas strap webbing, 61cm • D-rings, 4 • Metal grommets, 4 • Magnetic snap sets, 4 • Bias binding, 30.5cm
Sizes 90cm x 118cm
Cuting guide Dark blue and orange: cut four squares, 11.5cm Teal: cut three, two 11.5cm square and one 12.5cm x 22.25cm Blue: cut three, two 11.5cm square and one 12.5cm x 22.25cm Light green: cut three, two 11.5cm square and one 12.5cm x 40cm Green: cut three, two 11.5cm square and one 12.5cm x 40cm Pink: cut three, two 11.5cm square and one 12.5cm x 22.25cm Purple: cut three, two 11.5cm square and one 12.5cm x 40cm Dark purple: cut one 12.5cm x 22.25cm Red: cut one 12.5cm x 40cm White: cut 17, four 11.5cm x 12.5cm; four 12.5cm x 22.25cm; four 12.5cm x 40cm; four 23.5 x 30.5cm; one 6.5cm square Grey: cut four, two 6.5cm x 43.75cm and two 6.5cm x 61cm Use a 0.6cm seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated.
trael mat Always taking your stitching projects out and about? We’ve got the perfect solution for your on-the-go lifestyle! This travel mat is ideal for ironing your projects anytime, anywhere, plus it doubles as a cover for your machine for those rare occasions when it’s not in use! The multipurpose make from Modern Quilting by Michael Caputo is a brilliant way to develop your patchwork skills, too.
Stitch a multipurpose mat
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Measure the length of your machine, taking care to include the hand wheel, then measure the depth at its deepest point and the full height from the table surface. Some machines will have external spool holders, which you will need to either remove or factor in. Start with the 11.5cm squares for the four patches at the centre of the quilt. Making one block at a time, arrange the fabric, and piece them together [Fig.1]. Press the two unit rows in opposite directions to make it easier to join them.
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To create the half rectangles, take two pieces, 12.5cm x 22.25cm, one in a coloured fabric and the other in white. On the upper right and lower left short edge of each white rectangle, measure in and mark 0.6cm from the sides. Draw a diagonal line in between the points. With the coloured rectangle right side up, measure in by 0.6cm on the upper left and lower right short edge and mark it. Using a pin to align the marked points, position the two rectangles right sides together [Fig.2]. With a standard piecing foot adjusted to a 0.6cm seam allowance, sew on both sides of the line drawn on the lighter fabric. Cut along the line and press the seam towards the darker
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colour to make two half rectangles. Repeat steps 3 to 5 to make four half rectangles. To create the other four rectangles, you will need to mark the opposite corners, but the sewing and cutting will remain the same. Assemble the side sections by joining the half rectangle pieces and attaching them to the four-patch units, matching the layout [Fig.3]. For the longer end sections, repeat steps 3 to 5 using the 12.5cm x 40cm rectangles, then join the longer half rectangles in pairs. Make up the four corners using the orange 11.5cm squares and the remaining white rectangles. Join each corner to a longer half rectangle end section, [Fig.4], then connect this to a side
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section to make up the four quarters of the quilt top. When each of the four corner sections have been assembled, add a 6.5cm x 43.75cm length of sashing to join the top two and bottom two sections [Fig.5]. Use the 6.5cm white square to join the two longer lengths of sashing, then use this to join the top and bottom halves, making sure the square is in the centre. Press well to make sure all the seams are as lat as possible. Quilt as desired using the ironing surface fabric. After you have quilted and trimmed it square to the inal dimensions needed for your machine, you will need to measure in 12.5cm from both sides of each corner and pin. Place a quilter’s ruler across the corner to connect the pins and snip of the corner with a rotary cutter. Cut two 25.5cm lengths of webbing. Take two D-rings and insert them onto one end of the webbing, then fold 5cm over to make a loop. Pin and sew the folded section of the
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webbing together, securing the rings in place. Repeat with the other length to make two straps with rings [Fig.6]. Divide the remaining length of webbing in half and seal the raw ends. These two pieces will be the opposite side of the D-rings. Measure the space between the two hinged points of the handle and transfer this measurement to the two long sides on the back of the quilt. Pin webbing at each point on one side, and a D-ring strap at each point on the other side, lining up the raw ends with the outer edge of the cover. The straps will need to go inside the handle. Stitch within the binding space to secure all the straps. Attach the binding to the quilt and fold the angled corners. Position the four grommets [Fig.7] and mark the inner circle; each one should be placed on the clipped diagonal corners of the mat, about 2.5cm from the edge. Cut out the marked circles so the two-part grommets can be inserted and secured.
To ind the correct positions for the magnetic clasps, place the machine on the ironing side of the mat, and centre it. Fold up both long sides of the mat and attach the straps through the D-rings. Grab the top bound edge of one extended end of the mat directly above the end of the machine base and fold it back towards the machine – this will bring the short side up. Fold in each side. Using a pencil through the grommet, mark the inside and outside for the two halves of the magnetic clasp. Centre one half of the clasp over the mark and draw two cut lines for the prongs of the clasp mounts. Using a sharp small blade, cut the two slits and insert the prongs through the cuts. Place the cap and fold down the prongs to secure one side. Repeat on the opposite side and mark it to complete the clasp set. Repeat on all four grommets [Fig. 8].
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Get the
BOOK For more handy projects, check out Modern Quilting by Michael Caputo (ÂŁ12.99, CICO Books). Photography by Emma Mitchell.
Helium heart balloons, design-3000.de
Give your sewing room some affection with an Awesome People trinket dish, £9.50, oliverbonas.com
Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh is one of my favourite titles at the moment.
The heart is a potent symbol of love, devotion and emojis!
At home with... © Photographed by Rachel Whiting.
STUART HILLARD ‘Tis the season of love, birthdays and indulging in slow stitching February is probably my favourite month of them all. Not a lot of people say that, but I find it’s a time filled with love, and just the sort of tonic I need after winter has done its worst! It’s my birthday month, too (I have a whole month now, not just a day – that was my reward for getting past 40), and I like to spend the whole 28 or 29 days doing things I love: spending time with my husband Charlie, seeing friends and visiting my favourite places; I plan out museum and gallery visits, go for walks along the coast and explore city streets – I indulge myself a little and it does me good! With Valentine’s on the horizon, I also find it’s the month where everywhere you look there are hearts and it got me thinking, why is this such a potent symbol of love? In Ancient Greece, it was believed that the heart was where the soul resided, while the Ancient Egyptians thought it acted like a moral compass, so much so that after death, they believed the heart was weighed against a feather and only those whose heart was lighter entered the afterlife! By medieval times, it had become associated with romantic love and the notion of ‘giving one’s heart’ to the object of affection was recorded for the first time in a 13th century manuscript. Since then, it has been used as a powerful symbol for faith, love and
devotion – and even though these days it has been reduced to an emoji, it still conveys something of the original meaning!
“Life is not perfect and love isn’t either, but I truly hope your month is filled with both!” LOVE THYSELF Taking time for oneself is important at any time of year and many of us find that our crafting is the most precious me-time of all. Many creatives are rejecting wild consumerism and concentrating instead on slow stitching: the process of working by hand and finding pleasure in the moment, rather than focusing too much on the final result. My dear friend and fellow quilter from the US, Mark Lipinski has been a great proponent of the slow sewing movement for a number of years and has helped to spread the word. English paper piecing, hand embroidery and cross-stitch are all enjoying a wonderful renaissance as we discover the joys of sitting quietly, working with our hands and seeing something develop over time. In a world of instant everything, I find it so reassuring to know that some things take a little more time. MENDING MATTERS Of course, there was a time when everything was made by hand: our clothes, bed linens, and even the
cloth they were made from. In recent years, I think most of us have seen the damaging effects of fast fashion and a throwaway society, and although I don’t ever want us to go back to the drudgery of earlier ages, it’s wonderful to learn some lessons and value what we have. I caught the tail end of the ‘make do and mend’ generation as a child; darning mushrooms were becoming a curiosity rather than a commonplace object. As a child, hems were lowered as we grew, but as we all got a little better off and clothes became cheaper, we enjoyed the luxury of just buying new. It’s only now that many of us are realising it was a luxury we couldn’t really afford in the long-term and mending, repairing and refashioning are becoming popular again. If your clothes and homes are needing a little love, there are a number of wonderful books available on the subject: Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh focuses on denim and is one of my favourites. Many modern methods focus on visible mending, making a feature of the repair so that the finished object is more beautiful, and this is at the heart of Japanese kintsugi pottery too, where the cracks and breaks are repaired with gold making the joins very visible. Life is not perfect and love isn’t either but I truly hope your month is filled with both!
Stuart x
You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram 64
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sew home
ADD A SPOT OF MAGIC TO YOUR CRAFT SPACE WITH A
pocket organiser A tidy craft room may seem like the stuf of myths, but trust us, it’s easy with a little help from these fantastic storage pockets! In just six steps, you’ll create a wall hanging that can discretely hold your latest projects, loose threads, dressmaking scissors and much more.
Get started • Fabric: plain white cotton, 1m; fat quarters, assorted, unicorn print; plum cotton, 100cm x 112cm • Mid-weight iron-on interfacing, 40cm x 60cm
Sew a storage hanging
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Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk. Fuse interfacing, 40cm x 60cm, to the reverse of a plum cotton panel, 42cm x 62cm, leaving a 1cm seam allowance. Fold over the excess fabric all the way round and tack. Refer to the layout and cut rectangles of diferent fabric in the stated sizes. Cut corresponding sizes from plain white fabric and pair up, right sides together. Sew around all sides with a 5mm seam allowance and a 6cm gap along the bottom edge of each. Clip the corners and turn each pocket out through the gap. Use a knitting needle to push the corners out, turn in the raw edge along the bottom, tack closed and press. Make a 1cm wide pleat along the bottom edge of each pocket and pin. For the larger pocket, make 1cm pleats at each end and double pleats at 1/3 and 2/3 of the way across. Pin pockets to the backing fabric, starting with the bottom edge and pinning the sides at right angles. The top edge of each pocket remains unpinned and should naturally fall outwards. Using a coordinating thread, topstitch the pockets in place, 2mm from the edges and securing the pleats along the bottom as you do so. Stitch dividing lines down the larger pocket in line with the double pleats. Fold two fabric panels, 6cm x 12cm, in half right sides together, and sew down the long side. Turn right side out to make a tube. Press and fold the tube in half to make loops, then tack to the top corners of the organiser. Take plain white fabric, 42cm x 62cm, and press in 1cm along each edge. Place the organiser on top of the plain fabric, wrong sides together. Pin the folded edges together, covering the ends of the loops as you do so. Topstitch all the way around the organiser, 2mm from the edges.
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sew sewhome gifts
FOUR WAYS WITH
Threaders Tokyo Blue Fat Quarters
Get started
Let cupid work his magic this February as you celebrate Valentine’s Day with a selection of handmade gifts. Your loved ones are bound to appreciate Corinne’s four sweet makes, including two keyrings, a pretty clutch, a set of reusable fabric envelopes, and two cute lovebirds named Buttons and Bows. Crafter’s Companion are also giving every Sew reader an exclusive buy one get one free* ofer on this fabric range! Use the discount code SEW241 to purchase both fat quarters for just £7.99 (RRP £15.98).
• Fabric, Threaders Tokyo Blue fat quarters • Fibre illing • Lightweight quilt wadding • Iron-on fusible interfacing • Fabric glue • Thin cord • Ribbon • Buttons • Snap fasteners • Split rings • Small paper lowers on stems • Curved purse frame, 5cm x 12cm
Projects exclusive to
sew!
* Valid from 10th January 2019 until 7th February 2019. Just pay postage.
BUY ONE GET ONE FREE OFFER!
To claim your discounted fat quarters, visit crafterscompanion.co.uk 67
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sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Create fabric envelopes
Sew a clutch purse
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Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk, then cut two sets of purse shapes from the main fabric, lining and wadding. Zig zag stitch the lining pieces to the wadding, right sides facing out. Pin and stitch the darts before attaching the main material, right sides together, with the lining. Sew around the top curves following the marks, trim the seam allowance and turn right sides out. Topstitch the curves to keep it stable. Fold the bottom halves of the purse pieces over the top curve, match up the edges
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Download and print the template from sewmag. co.uk, then trace it onto the back of the main fabric, 20cm x 30cm. Place right sides together on a contrasting print and stitch around the shape, leaving a 4cm gap in the centre of one side. Clip the corners, turn right sides out, fold in the raw edges of the gap and press. Topstitch the two angled ends
and stitch following the marks, lining up the darts. Leave a gap in the centre of the lining and turn the purse out through it. Fold in the edges of the gaps and topstitch closed. Apply a line of fabric glue into the channel of one half of the purse frame. Allow the glue to go tacky before pushing the topstitched curve of one half of the purse into it, gathering it gently so the hinges of the frame match up with the ends of the seam. Leave the glue to dry completely before fixing the other side of the purse into the frame in the same way.
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Use code SEW241 to claim your fat quarter
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of the envelope, then fold the base of the shape up to the bottom of the flap and topstitch the sides. Fix snap fasteners to the top flap and bottom dip.
sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
“‘Not only are these fabic enelopes great for stoing a Valentine’s card, they’re reusable once opened which makes them eco-fiendly, too!”
ofer!
Corinne Bradd, sew designer 68
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sew home e our mascots! Thanks to Gillian Bain for helping us nam ds! Help us with threa ira Made of set a – prize your We hope you enjoy ewhq om/s ook.c faceb suggestions for next month’s toy at
sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Make heart keyrings
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Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Fold the fabric, 12cm x 18cm, in half with right sides together and use the template to trace a heart onto one side. Stitch along the drawn line leaving a 3cm gap on one straight edge. Trim to a 0.5cm seam allowance and clip the curves and angles before turning right sides out. Stuf the heart fairly irmly with ibre illing. Turn in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch together. Cut grosgrain ribbon, 10cm, and thread a split ring onto it. Fold the ribbon in half and secure the ends to the top of the
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Stitch Buttons and Bows
heart on one side. Tie a small bow in a length of satin ribbon and stitch the other side. Cover the sewing with decorative buttons on each side.
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Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Trace the birds onto the reverse of the fabric and cut out adding a 0.5cm seam allowance. Sew right sides together, leaving a gap along the lower back edge. Clip the curves and turn out. Firmly stuf with ibre illing, fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch closed. Trace the wing and tail onto fusible interfacing and attach this to the reverse of the fabric. Cut out the shapes and peel away the backing paper. Fuse the shapes to the wrong side of contrasting material and trim to the outline of the original shape. Apply a little fabric glue along the lower spine of the bird, fold the tail in half lengthways and ix it to the back, pegging in place as
““This matching pair of keyings is a super-seet gift for a loed one, plus they’re really handy when you’re trying to find the car keys in your bag!”
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sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates the glue dries. Fix the wings to either side of the bird with a small decorative button. Cut a 2cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, 10mm. Fold the top corners of each end to the middle, then fold it in half to make a beak. Sew this to the front of the head and make a hole through the centre with a large needle so a wire lower stem can be pushed through it. Add two small black buttons for eyes and stitch a hanging loop of thin cord to the centre back.
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“‘Hang these loebirds around your home for a romantic feel this Valentine’s Day. Just remember to keep the duo close together” Corinne Bradd, sew designer
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Visit themakeitroom.co.uk FEB
5 TUE Beautiful Bag Visit The Make It Room and have a go at creating your very own fully lined bag. This workshop is ideal for beginners and will teach you how to add matching handles and pockets using a material of your choice. Feel free to bring along your own sewing machine if you prefer, but there’s plenty available at the shop if you need one. Price: £25
FEB
Sew Animals
Learn to make one of these beautiful animals which can be used as either toys or footstools. be able to get creative and use your own THU You’ll designs to make a hippo, elephant or pig from a fabric of your choice. These cute creatures will make the perfect gift if you have any birthdays or special occasions around the corner. Price: £50
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&learn
Stitch
The Make It Room, Essex
Develop your skills with these handy stitching workshops
Sew in Brighton, Brighton Visit sewinbrighton.co.uk MAR
Kimono Robe
In this workshop, you will ind out all you need to know about SAT creating a beautiful, loaty kimono sleeve dressing gown. The workshop is suitable for beginner stitchers, ofering the opportunity to learn how to follow a pattern and sew French seams and pockets. Price: £74
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12 TUE
Clasp Clutch Bag All you need to bring along to this class is two pieces of fabric in coordinating colours so you can make this sweet little clutch. In the lesson, you’ll discover how to attach a clasp and use a diferent material to line the inside of the bag. It’s a quick and easy make which is ideal for packing away your essentials for an evening out, too. Price: £30
MAR
Make Knickers!
For those wanting to get to grips with stretch SUN fabrics, this is the perfect workshop! In the class, you’ll learn how to alter and adjust a knicker pattern, ind the best stitch and technique for applying lace and elastic edging, plus you’ll discover the most suitable needles and stitches needed for working with stretchy jersey and knit fabrics. Price: £64
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sew PROMOTION
Made and Making, West Sussex
MAY
In just a few hours, you’ll have created this easy THU top from just a few basic measurements. All you need is around 1.8m of light- to medium-weight cotton which has a multi-directional print, along with fusible interfacing. With help from Made and Making, you’ll be whipping up a multitude of beautiful peplum-style garments like this in time for the warmer months. Price: £30
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Visit madeandmaking.co.uk JUN
Simple Top
Crossover Apron
Head over to Made and Making for a fun-illed day of creating THU this easy apron pinafore. The garment is great for wearing while doing a spot of gardening, or it would look fabulous when worn with a long sleeve top underneath for a day out. With this workshop, you’ll be taught how to sew a crossover back and insert pockets. Price: £65
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APR
Stitch a Purse
With this gorgeous purse, you’ll master sewing with interfacing and WED fusible leece, as well as learn how to insert a wire to the frame and add a zip. It’s ideal for packing away your make-up or using for any of your haberdashery bits and bobs. If you like, you can even add a couple of jazzy contrasting pockets to the inside! Price: £65
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Backstitch, Cambridge
JAN
Hand Embroidery
Want to boost your hand embroidery skills? Then head TUE along to this class to master all of the basic techniques, from running and seed, to couching and Eskimo laced running stitch. With these skills to hand, you’ll be able to adorn your home and your wardrobe with beautiful embroidery projects in no time at all! Price: £30
Visit backstitch.co.uk
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Machine Appliqué MAR
Want to add an artistic touch to your sewing? Take a trip to Backstitch and have a go at free motion appliqué! In TUE the lesson, you’ll be guided through the process of creating your own appliqué, which includes inding inspiration for your design and choosing the right fabric for the job. Price: £30
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MAR
Introduction to Smocking
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Go back to basics with MON traditional hand-sewing techniques, such as smocking. This method is easy to learn and it creates a beautiful design on gathered fabric. In the workshop, you’ll acquire the skills you need to smock up to ive diferent decorative stitches and will leave with a sample of each one so you can refer to it at home. Price: £30
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directory • FABRICS • SEWING MACHINES • HABERDASHERY • PATTERNS
www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra
tel: 01425 461444
To see our full range & find a stockist, please visit our website: www.adjustoform.com
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o nline o ind yur local tre n ur map!
Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics. Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions. And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST
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1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102
1000s of Rolls at Realistic Prices! Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more! Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk
www.leonsfabrics.co.uk
Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000
www.sewmag.co.uk
• KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL•
your essential guide to
KIDS' BEDROOM BASICS It's never been easier to bring colour, interest and individuality into your children's play areas and bedrooms! Here, we've transformed kiddie's quarters with a fun bear wall mount, patchwork sack and alphabet pegs, plus a dressing gown you can finish just in time for a bedtime story. These projects are also simple enough to introduce little ones to the world of sewing and dressmaking.
Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ
!
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• KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL•
Get started
sew
• Main fabric, 2m (115cm) • Brushed cotton lining, 2m (115cm)
free template download
Sizes
sewmag.co.uk /templates
Age 2-5 years 1cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
Stitch a mini dressing gown
1
Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Cut out one back, two fronts, and two sleeves from main fabric, making sure that you cut one right and one left front. With right sides together, pin and machine-stitch the fronts to the back at the shoulders, then press the seams open.
2
With right sides together, pin the sleeves around the curve of the armholes. Machine-stitch, snip the curved seams, then press the them open. Pin and inish the underarm and side seams, then press open. Repeat using the lining fabric.
4
5
Cut a strip of main fabric, 8cm x 112cm, for the tie. Press 1cm to the wrong side all the way around. Fold the strip in half and press. Pin and topstitch all the way around to form the belt. Cut two 4cm x 7cm strips for the belt loops. Press 1cm to the wrong side all the way around on both pieces. Fold them in half and topstitch all the way around. Pin and stitch the loops onto the side seams, 23cm from the bottom, then thread the belt through.
get the
book
Making Children's Clothes by Emma Hardy is full to the brim with mini dressmaking projects, suitable for 0-5 years. Photography by Vanessa Davies © CICO Books. £12.99, rylandpeters.com 74
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!
3
With right sides together, slip the lining over the gown. Starting at the neck and aligning the outer edges and the seams, pin the main gown and lining together down the sides and along the bottom edge, and machine-stitch, leaving an
opening of 15cm along the bottom edge. Clip the corners of and make small snips around the curved front seam allowances so that the fronts will lie lat. Turn right side out and press, then hand-stitch the opening in the bottom edge closed. Turn the outer cuf to the wrong side by 1cm and the lining cuf to its wrong side by the same amount. Pin and topstitch around both cufs and press. Topstitch all the way around the edge of the gown about 1cm from the edge.
• KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL•
sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Get started • Fabric • Felt • Stuing • Safety eyes • Embroidery hoop, 5in • Embroidery thread
Project exclusive to
3
sew!
Sew a bear wall mount
1
Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk, then trim the fabric and felt. Take one of the fabric ears, centre a felt ear on top, lining up the bottom edges, and topstitch in place. Take another fabric ear and place, right sides together, next to the piece with the felt stitched on. Sew around the curved edge with a 1cm seam. Clip notches in the curve, turn out and press. Make a 1cm pleat at the base of the ear and stitch. Repeat for the other ear. Sew the forehead to the snout (match As), then stitch the snout to the felt nose (Bs) to make a long piece. Take the two sides of the head and attach the chin together (Cs). Clip notches in the seams. Match up the snout section to the top side of the head (Ds), pin and sew along to the felt nose. Repeat for the other side of the snout/head. Clip the notches and press all of the seams, then turn out.
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Pin the ears felt side down with the pleats centred on the two opposite top seams on the head. Pin the back head piece to the main head section (Es), right sides together, sandwiching the ears in this seam. Sew, press and turn out. Make a small hole in the head seam and position the eyes. Backstitch to create a mouth. Take the inner section of an embroidery hoop and position it into the open neck of the bear's head. Use sewing clips to hold it in place and, if necessary, make small pleats in the material to make it it snugly. Stitch together by sewing through the felt and around the wooden hoop using small whip stitches all round. Fill the head with stuing, pushing into the snout. Take a circle of felt the same size as the inner embroidery hoop and sew it onto the back, covering the opening. Open the outer hoop to its largest point and put it over the inner hoop, positioning the screw centrally at the top for hanging. Fold the scarf in half, right sides together, and sew from one edge to the other, leaving an 8cm gap in the centre. Clip the curved seams, turn out, press and tie.
4 5
• KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL•
• Cotton fabric: plain; patterned • Felt quilt wadding • Thick yarn
Make a knick knack bag
1
Cut plain cotton, 26cm x 71cm, and patterned, 14cm x 71cm. Prepare two strips of contrasting cotton, 6cm x 71cm. Use one strip to bind the top edge of the patterned panel to make a border. With the second, bind the top edge of the plain panel in the same way, but fold in and glue 1cm at each end to form a channel. Press the panels.
2
Pin the patterned panel on top of the plain one, lining up the bottom edges. Sew the patterned panel at 9cm intervals to make pockets. Fold right sides together and stitch the side, using a 6mm seam allowance, to form a tube, ensuring the ends of the drawstring channel aren't sewn. Trim the seam and zig zag stitch. Cut plain cotton, 19cm square, then zig zag stitch to a square of felt wadding.
3
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Pin one edge to the bottom of the tube, right sides together, with the tube's side seam in the centre of the square. Pin the opposite edge to the other side of the tube and stitch. Pin and sew the remaining sides to the bag base, gathering any excess at the corners. Zig zag the seams and turn out, then thread yarn through the channel and gently fasten to secure.
!
Get started
• KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL • KIDS' BEDROOM SPECIAL•
sew Get started
Get started
• Fabric, patterned • Felt, various colours • Embroidery thread • Fusible interfacing • Wadding • Ric rac braid • Bakers twine
• Fabric, assorted prints • Felt, 20cm square: yellow, pink • Small beads • Embroidery thread • Wadding • Bags of sand or rice
Sew felt letters
1
Cut a circle, 10cm diameter, from brightly coloured felt. Sew ric rac braid around the circle, 3mm in from the edge, using two strands of matching embroidery thread. Overlap the ends and apply a little glue to prevent fraying. Fuse interfacing to the reverse of patterned fabric. Draw out a block letter onto plain paper and cut out, turn it over so it is reversed and trace onto the back of the interfacing, then trim with sharp scissors. Oversew the letter to the centre of the felt circle using embroidery thread. Thread bakers twine through the hole in the spring of a peg and fasten to make a loop. Pin the bottom of the loop to the top of the circle. Cut another felt circle, 10cm diameter, then oversew to the back of the lettered one, securing the twine but leaving a small gap. Lightly stuf and stitch closed.
2 3
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Create mouse bookends
1
Download the template from sewmag.co.uk, then print and cut out. Prepare 10, 4cm paper hexagons, then cut out the fabric, leaving a 1cm seam allowance. Pair together using the paper piecing method: for each mouse, you’ll need 10 hexagons, ive of each print. Cut a fabric body piece on the fold and open out. Turn it under 0.5cm along the bottom of the body, then tack the edges together. Pin and oversew nine fabric hexagons to the body in two rows. Remove the paper templates from the hexagonal shapes with tweezers before closing the inal side of the shape. Gather the centre fold of the body from dot to dot with two lines of running stitch pulled taut to emphasise the bend of the face. Fold the body right sides together and sew up the long curved back seam. Turn the mouse the right way out and
2
stitch the inal hexagon over the exposed opening. Firmly stuf the top half of the body with wadding before adding a bag of sand and more illing to create a round base. Snip a circle of felt, place over the wadding and oversew the tacked edge of the shape to the circumference of the felt circle.
3
4
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Cut two ears from felt and stitch to the face part at the top of the tilted cone. Sew two small beads to either side of the nose to create the eyes. Trim a long, tapered strip of felt and stitch to the base of the mouse. Curl this and tack it to the body to make a tail.
CORNWALL
Sew Saturday
Cornish Garden Nurseries, Barras Moor, Perranarworthal, Truro
SAVE THE DATE – 5th October, 2019 Proudly sponsored by:
BEDFORDSHIRE
www.coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk sally@coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk Tel: 01872 870478
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
Opening hours: Tuesday: 10.00 - 18.30 Wednesday, Thursday & Friday: 10.00 - 17.30 Saturday: 12.00 - 16.30 7 Steel Close, Eaton Socon, St Neots PE19 8TT
CARDIFF
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
The Sewing Studio
13 Camms Corner Dinas Powys CF64 4QY Tel: 029 2115 2628 email: shop@whitegeckoevents.co.uk web: www.whitegeckocraftlounge.co.uk
www.habbydays.co.uk
BRISTOL
CORNWALL
CARDIFF
10-12 Chapel Street Redruth, Cornwall TR15 2DB
Phone: 01209 216942 sales@thesewingstudio.co.uk www.thesewingstudio.co.uk
CORNWALL
.PAINTERS. a Cornish treasure trove of art & craft materials
46 Sandy Park Rd, Brislington BS4 3PF Mon - Fri 9.30am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 5pm
0117 977 8216 www.direct-sewingmachines.co.uk BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
patchwork fabric, textile art, fine art, workshops and more
FABRICS, YARNS, SEWING MACHINES and much more !
painters@craft-box.com 7 Fore Street Liskeard Cornwall PL14 3JA
58 King Street, Cambridge CB1 1LN info@sewknitcraft.co.uk 01223 350691
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
www.craft-box.com 01579 347237 CHESHIRE
DEVON
Be Creative ... Learn to make beautiful, original clothes Sewing and pattern cutting courses for beginners to advanced Stitch Studio Sewing School, Station Road, Wisbech St. Mary, Cambridgeshire PE13 4RY
07584 341160 | www.stitchstudio.co.uk jayne@stitchstudio.co.uk
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
CARDIFF
Curlew Close, Queensway Meadows, Newport NP19 4SY 01633 284646
DEVON
Gripoly Mills, Sloper Road, Cardiff CF11 8AA 02922 402418
31 Mill Street, Sidmouth, EX10 8DF
01395 513209 www.sidmouthfabrics.com
DORSET
Sew Saturday SAVE THE DATE – 5th October, 2019 Proudly sponsored by:
EAST SUSSEX
GREATER MANCHESTER
FIFE
HAMPSHIRE
ROUGE FABRICS Thank you for joining us for
Thanks for joining in the fun!
Little Sew and Sew 11b Bexhill Road St. Leonards-on-Sea East Sussex TN38 0AH
info@littlesewandsewsussex.co.uk 01424 423375 www.littlesewandsewsussex.com
EAST SUSSEX
55 High Street, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7DL
www.thesewstudio.co.uk
84 Penny Meadows Ashton-Under-Lyme OL6 6EP
01383 621894
0161 330 9171
FIFE
GREATER MANCHESTER
There is something for everyone at Buttons & Blethers:
* Workshops & classes for adults & children * Retail sale of fabric, patterns, wool & haberdashery * Craft classes * Sewing machine hire, sales & repairs * Social cafe space
www.buttonsandblethers.co.uk 01383 747884 GOOD Maggie@buttonsandblethers.co.uk Unit 15a Elgin Industrial Estate, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7SN
ESSEX
SEW SATURDAY
NEWS TO FOLLOW...
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
01252 444220 Unit 18C • Hart Shopping Centre • Fleet • Hampshire GU51 3LA
www.sew‐busy.co.uk
HAMPSHIRE
Patchwork Parade “Q” House, Russell Street, Chadderton, Oldham OL9 9LF COME AND VISIT OUR 7TH ANNUAL PATCHWORK QUILTING AND CRAFT FAIR ON MARCH 16TH at Queen Elizabeth Hall, Oldham.
For further details email us: patchworkparade@gmail.com or call us 0161 633 5900
HAMPSHIRE
●
Haberdashery Workshops
●
Bobbin Sewing School The Stables, The Vine, High Street, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 6HF E: hello@bobbinsewingschool.com
www.bobbinsewingschool.co.uk
HAMPSHIRE
11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham GL50 4AA
Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week Workshops • Materials • Equipment
6 Rayne Road, Braintree, CM7 2QH
www.lingardfabrics.co.uk ESSEX
Visit us for local service with internet prices tel: 01242 244025 www.westendsewing.co.uk
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Bernina Elna Janome Toyota
Get in touch today! Unit 14, Hassock Wood Business Centre, Stroudley Road, Basingstoke RG24 8UQ
07900 828431 hello@purple-stitches.com www.purple-stitches.com
• Sewing Machine Sales • Servicing • Repairs • Haberdashery Supplies • Clothing Repairs and Alterations
www.reads-of-winchester.co.uk
01962 850 950
HAMPSHIRE
Ann Louise and Thistle Wool Shops Traditional style wool shops with an extensive range of yarns, patchwork fabrics, buttons, haberdashery and more.
Fabrics & Trimmings Open: Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm
Tel: 01255 474009 80d Rosemary Road, Clacton-on-Sea, CO15 1ND
Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Knitting and Sewing Lessons 39 Parsonage Street, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
We host a range of classes starting from beginners. Bring this advert into one of our shops and receive 10% off any purchase over £10 53 London Road, Cowplain PO8 8UJ Tel: 02392 253972
NORFOLK
Sew Saturday
“Fun fr al he family plus tea and cake!”
SAVE THE DATE – 5th October, 2019
Broadly Patchwork Wroxham Barns, Tunstead Road Hoveton, NR12 8QU 01603 781665 www.broadlypatchwork.co.uk info@broadlypatchwork.co.uk
Proudly sponsored by:
HERTFORDSHIRE
LANCASHIRE
LEICESTERSHIRE
NORFOLK
Heavenly Arts & Crafts Cafe Your award-winning craft superstore! Papercraft, Knit & Stitch, Classes & Demonstrations! Our warm and friendly charity runs a sewing cafe four times a month, as well as courses taught by a qualified teacher. CLP Sewing Cafe
Tel: 07771 99 28 95 HERTFORDSHIRE 142 Cotterells Hemel Hempstead Herts, HP1 1JQ 01442 245383
One of Hertfordshire’s largest stockists for wools, fabrics, haberdashery and crafts www.needlecraftstore.co.uk contact@needlecraftstore.co.uk
INVERNESS
Capitol Centre, Preston, Lancashire, PR5 4AW (behind Dunelm Mill) OPEN: MONDAY - SATURDAY; 10AM - 5.30PM SUNDAY; 11AM - 4PM
Tel: 01772 880852 www.inspirationscraft.co.uk LEICESTERSHIRE
OPENS Sunday 9th December at 11.00am 71 Market Street, Ashby de la Zouch, LE65 1AH 01530 416300 LINCOLNSHIRE
FABRIC PATTERNS SEWING WORKSHOPS
Sewing workshops and courses for all abilities Gorgeous fabrics, haberdashery and essentials
“Dressmaking fabrics, quilting cottons, haberdashery and sewing classes”
www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk
LEICESTERSHIRE
NORFOLK
for dressmakers and quilters Sewing patterns, Stylecraft yarn, Craft kits 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY
Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PB
Customer Loyalty Scheme
01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk
01603 716140 www.gillybee.co.uk
LINCOLNSHIRE
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE www.mooloos.co.uk • Sewing workshops from ages 9+ • Silver Sewing Machine Stockists • Fabrics, Haberdashery & Alterations
5 MARKET PLACE, BRACKLEY, NN13 7AB Fabrics, Haberdashery & Wool! Stockists of Tilda Fabrics, Gutterman Fabrics & Threads, Butterick, McCalls and Kwik Sew patterns. Tel: 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk
LEICESTERSHIRE
LINCOLNSHIRE
Phone: 01280 308 721 Opening times: Mon, Tue, Thurs & Fri 9.30am - 4pm Saturday 9.30am - 2pm Closed Wednesday & Sunday
NORTH LINCOLNSHIRE “Your one stop sewing shop”
Dressmaking, Pattern Cutting and Jane White Couture Tuition Award, Certificate & Diploma
City & Guilds equivalent Courses start January Enjoy professional tuition – where you’ll sew amongst enthusiasts! Join our fun ‘Sewing Bee’ workshops and short courses for garment technique specific projects. We can arrange one to one tuition to suit you. Official supplier of Elna and Baby Lock sewing machines and overlockers
Tel: 01482 840712 www.janewhitetuition.co.uk The Ropewalk, Barton upon Humber, North Lincolnshire DN18 5JT
Fabrics & Haberdashery E-mail: Jaylaurs54@gmail.com Join us on facebook at ‘Jaylaurs Sewing Studios’
Tel. 01652 650047 54 Wrawby Street, Brigg, DN20 8JE
NORTHUMBERLAND
Sew Saturday SAVE THE DATE – 5th October, 2019 Proudly sponsored by:
NORTH YORKSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
SUFFOLK
WEST SUSSEX
The Corner Patch Bugweed’s Ltd is dedicated to sewing and crafts. We teach adults and children, make bespoke items, host birthday parties, hen parties and baby showers and sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.
Tel: 07495 012546 Email: info@bugweeds.co.uk
a little corner of patchwork heaven Opening Hours: Tues - Sat 10 - 5 Late Night Wednesday until 8 Fabric, Wadding, Threads and Haberdashery Workshop & Classes for all Abilities
Telephone: 01785 859360 e-mail: jane@thecornerpatch.co.uk
www.bugweeds.co.uk
12 High Street, Eccleshall, Stafford ST21 6BZ
Follow us on Facebook: @bugweeds
www.thecornerpatch.co.uk
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week Designer Fabrics • Materials • Equipment
33 King Street, Sudbury, CO10 2EQ
www.lingardfabrics.co.uk SUFFOLK
WEST SUSSEX
The Little House of Patchwork
Fabrics - Threads - Quilting Supplies
SEWING MACHINES & SERVICING - SEWING CLASSES - FABRICS & HABERDASHERY “WE’RE ALL THINGS SEWING” • Brother, Husqvarna & Pfaff sewing machines and overlockers. • Sole UK stockist of “Screw B Do” screwdrivers. • Fun sewing classes for all abilities. • Fabulous fabrics for quilting, dressmaking, sewing & crafts. New Range of Batik Fabrics 24 BURY STREET, STOWMARKET, IP14 1HH 01449 257070 www.stitchxstitch.co.uk @stitchxstitchstowmarket
SOUTH YORKSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
TYNE & WEAR
SOUTH YORKSHIRE
Please contact us on: 01827 288344 thesewcialstudio@gmail.com www.thesewcialstudio.co.uk 80-82 Watling Street, Wilnecote,Tamworth B77 5BJ FOLLOW US ON:
STAFFORDSHIRE
Retreat Weekends
The Grange, Palmer Place, North Mundham, Chichester, West Sussex PO20 1JW · 01243 696670 · Open Monday-Friday 9.30am-4.00pm
WEST YORKSHIRE
164A Roberttown Lane Liversedge, WF15 7LT 01924 676 329 info@fabricateshop.co.uk
❖ Extensive dressmaking and quilting fabrics ❖ Haberdashery ❖ Friendly Sewing Classes ❖ Elna and Jaguar machine dealership
630 Abbeydale Road, Sheffield S7 2BA Tel: 0114 258 3763 Email: patchworkgarden@hotmail.com www.thepatchworkgarden.co.uk
Workshops
Order online: www.thelittlehouseofpatchwork.co.uk
64 Saville Street, North Shields NE30 1AZ Tel: 0191 258 2380
Designer Dressmaking & Quilting Fabrics, Sewing Patterns, Haberdashery and Sewing Workshops
Email: info@readythreadysew.co.uk
www.readythreadysew.co.uk
WARWICKSHIRE
YORKSHIRE
Utterly Delightful Fabric Emporium
Weekly Sewing classes and Workshops 01709 814 444
www.fromragstostitches.co.uk hello@fromragstostitches.co.uk 85 High Street, Maltby, Rotherham S66 7BL
5a York Buildings, Edlington Lane, Edlington, Doncaster DN12 1BU
01709 860881 www.sewcutefabrics.co.uk
Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!
worth over
£250! SHAPE YOUR SILHOUETTE For extra support underneath your me-made garments, try the Naomi & Nicole cooling brief! Its hand-sewn elastic waistband secures the pants, while the high-waisted style provides amazing shaping along your middle section, and the curved mesh insets down the side increases airlow for a comfortable wear! Available at loveshapewear.co.uk
£150!
HOOKED ON HABERDASHERY
Minerva Crafts prides itself on ofering a fantastic range of haberdashery products – that’s probably why there’s so many! Its evergrowing stock is bound to get your creative juices lowing with essentials like bias binding, cord, elastic, scissors, snaps and so much more, and Sew are giving you the opportunity to win a bundle! Available at minervacrafts.com We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick MINERVA
sewFebruary
giveaways
We have seven to give away. To enter, tick SHAPEWEAR
FABRIC OF DREAMS Abakhan has all of the dressmaking fabric to suit your stitchy needs, including 100% cotton, velvet, scuba and gingham, to name a few! As the shop never compromises on standard, whatever material your bundle contains, its guaranteed to be long-lasting and excellent quality. Available at abakhan.co.uk We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick ABAKHAN
worth
worth
Enter for the chance to win £1,000+ of amazing goodies!
£70! FLATTER YOUR FIGURE Have you ever seen a prettier skirt than this bubblegum pink number? A Printed Wardrobe is giving two lucky readers the chance to win this knee-length, itted pencil pattern which comes with everything you need to get started: a printed panel, zip, threads, elastic and easy-to-follow instructions, plus, it’s all packaged in a Fairtrade bag! Both skirts are a size 10 to 12. Available at aprintedwardrobe.com We have two to give away. To enter, tick SKIRT 82
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worth
£190!
Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!
DINE IN STYLE The voucher is valid for 24 months. Booking restrictions may apply at some venues.
Retreat to a quaint country village, explore a new city or enjoy stunning sea views with this mini break giveaway! You’ll experience two nights of luxury at your chosen UK or European location, with one tasty evening meal and breakfast on both mornings – where would you go? Available at redletterdays.co.uk We have one break to give away. To enter, tick GOURMET
worth
Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/ giveaways to win big!
£200! SURPRISE GIFT We can’t tell you too much about this mystery box because then it wouldn’t be a surprise! But what we can reveal is that there’s two Tilly and the Buttons patterns, gorgeous silky fabrics, sewing books and some cotton threads up for grabs. We have one box to give away. To enter, tick MYSTERY
worth over
£180! worth over
£150! WE LOVE FABRIC Girl Charlee is your one-stop shop for top-quality knit fabrics! The online store is jam-packed with unique stretch materials, including jersey, lycra and ribbed knits, as well as various designer prints such as the BOLT collection. Available at girlcharlee.co.uk We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick CHARLEE
To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 21.02.2019* Mark your envelope: Sew February Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Sufolk, IP2 8WG.
!
Just tick the boxes!
SHAPEWEAR
SKIRT
CHARLEE
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MINERVA
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FREE The Vintage Patrn Selectr *
Here at Sew magazine we have arranged for all readers to receive a FREE* The Vintage Pattern Selector Book, worth £15.99! The Vintage Pattern Selector is a practical sewing book that arms the reader with all the techniques and information they need in order to mix and match clothing styles WORTH from the 20th century. Accompanied by a CD with 99 printable patterns for a range of dress sizes, this book is a comprehensive guide to creating contemporary outfits from vintage styles.
£15. !
Visit craftstoreuk.com/vintagepshopping ur yo in E G TA IN V de co nt ou sc di r te and en basket or call 0800 9233 005
PLUS SAVE 30% OFF CStroarfte EVERYTHING ONLY AT Visit us at CRAFTSTOREUK.COM and enter code SAVE30 in your shopping basket or call us at 0800 9233 005 *Terms & Conditions: Orders must be placed by the 23rd of February 2019. Just pay £3.99 postage. Not to be used in conjunction with any other ofer. Only one book per customer. Ofer subject to availability. We can only apply refunds to damaged or faulty goods. Please refer online for further details.
sew BOOKS
the BOOKS we’re loving... Discover what’s made it to the top of our reading list this month
Mid-Century Modern by Here Design and Frances Ambler Drawing on the inventive style of the 20th century, this sweet gift book features illustrations of iconic designs from the Eames chair to a George Nelson clocs. If you’re looking to source inspiration from a particular century for your crafty projects, or need ideas on how to furnish your sewing room, then this book is perfect! Thames & Hudson, £9.95, thamesandhudson.com
100 Ideas that Changed Fashion
Tiny Stitches
Pattern Design
Sew Kraft-tex Bags
by Irem Yazici
by Elizabeth Wilhide
by Harriet Worsley
It’s all in the detail with this unique book, as designer Irem shows you how to draw attention to your garments with embroidered buttons, badges, pins and patches. Each project uses no more than seven stitches and avoids complicated finishing, plus there’s five iron-on pattern sheets so you can easily transfer each template onto your chosen fabric. Search Press, £12.99, searchpress.com
Throughout history, patterns have taken countless forms, from the petals on a flower head or the spirals of a seashell, yet they all have one thing in common: repetition. This creative book contains chapters on top pattern creators such as William Morris and Orla Kiely – it’s sure to inspire your next trip to the fabric store! Thames & Hudson, £35, thamesandhudson.com
by Betsy La Honta and Gailen Runge
The most celebrated movements and ideas that transformed the way women dress are all included in this entertaining read! From the invention of the bias cut and artificial silks, to make do and mend and sustainable fashion trends, this book really will change the way you think about your clothes! Laurence King, £14.99, laurenceking.com
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Kraft-tex is a brand-new material which has a leather look but can be cut and washed like fabric, and this book teaches you how to use it! You’ll learn how to sew the right seam allowances, practise turning techniques and discover needle knowhows with top tips from the experts, then you can put your knowledge to the test with 17 bag patterns. Stash Books, £21, ctpub.com
who does what... Editor, Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Sophie Demetriades sophie.demetriades@aceville.co.uk Editorial Assistant, Laura Wybrow laura.wybrow@aceville.co.uk Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton & Fiona Palmer Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Anna-Sophie, Sylvia, Colette, Nevs; Alex, MOT Models Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk
your
SEWING GUIDE
Get to grips with the dressmaking basics! THE PERFECT FIT The key to successful itting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel over the page, then you can make any necessary alterations. Cut out the paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best it (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.
l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally diferent to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to it your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.
Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300 Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner
TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS
Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk
HIGH BUST Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.
FULL BUST
WAIST HIPS
Measure while in the underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.
HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist. 86
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Use our FREE pattern to make this casual Carrie blouse at sewmag.co.uk!
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
SIZE it up Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile irst.
For size 8: Bust - 78cm Waist - 59cm Hip - 85cm Back neck to waist - 39cm
For size 10: Bust - 83cm Waist - 64cm Hip - 88cm Back neck to waist - 40cm
For size 12: Bust - 88cm Waist - 69cm Hip - 93cm Back neck to waist - 41cm
For size 14: Bust - 93cm Waist - 74cm Hip - 98cm Back neck to waist - 42cm
READING A PATTERN The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.
BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.
TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.
GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.
FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.
MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.
NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.
“To attach the bottom half of the blouse to the top with gathers, start by using the largest stitch on the machine and work two rows of gathering on the right side. The first row should be on the fitting line and the second 6mm away on the seam allowance. Pin the right side of the bottom half of the top to the right side of the bodice. The bobbin threads of gathering stitch should now be facing you and are much easier to pull up.” MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY
For size 16: Bust - 98cm Waist - 79cm Hip - 103cm Back neck to waist - 43cm
For size 18: Bust - 103cm Waist - 84cm Hip - 108cm Back neck to waist - 44cm
For size 20:
“This grey and blue cotton poplin is a soft and durable fabric which is ideal for spring. It’s also great for making the top half of this beautiful Carrie blouse” CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL
With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces. Most patterns ofer a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be put on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece until both measurements are the same.
Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:
WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.
WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.
S BIA
Bust - 108cm Waist - 89cm Hip - 113cm Back neck to waist - 45cm
UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC
PLACING YOUR PIECES
WARP
Sewing Room – On Trend, £6.95 per metre, croftmill.co.uk
SELVEDGES
WEFT FOLD 87
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PATTERNS INSIDE!
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l Six circle skirts in
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a contrast waistband
IRL IN GIVE US A TW IRT! A CIRCLE SK
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Dressmaker of the Year entries l Debbie Shore shares her tips
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l Cinch in the waist
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Round necks are always flattering, especially when teamed with a pair of slouchy jeans, £25, oliverbonas.com
The classic tee is revamped with a fun and colourful print, bimbaylola.com
Master knit fabrics with Tilly’s book! £22.50, hardiegrant.com
We made this design using a Simplicity 8337 pattern, simplicitynewlook.co.uk
STYLE STORY
THE T-SHIRT how did the jersery tee become a style staple? Words by LAURA WYBROW
When Marlon Brando appeared on cinema screens in A Streetcar Named Desire wearing a sweat-soaked T-shirt, viewers were stunned – this was 1951, and tees were only known as men’s underwear! The item first emerged in WW1 as an undergarment, then it was adopted a decade later by the US Navy and, following the war, returning veterans would team their work slacks with the undershirt as casual attire. The look became popular in the 50s but as Harriet Worsley, author of 100 Ideas that Changed Fashion, says: “It took Brando’s iconic screen presence – along with that of James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause – to sell this novel idea to 1950s youth. They enthusiastically took to white t-shirts, and wore them as symbols of individuality.” As a result, the tee as we know it was born!
TEES, PLEASE! The slogan top has allowed individuals to send messages since the 1960s, as Harriet explains: “It provided a classic means for promoting bands, activists, politicians and almost anyone else with a message, and it was not long before advertisers, too, discovered their power.” In the 70s, Vivienne Westwood was at the forefront of the trend with her politicallymotivated T-shirts, but it was the 80s that pushed them to fashion’s centre stage with famous designs such as ‘Save the World’ and
‘Choose Life’. But if loud phrases aren’t your bag, why not sew your own version?
A BLANK CANVAS The T-shirt provides the ultimate clean slate for all sorts of embellishments, and Tilly Walnes, author of the knit fabric book Stretch! shares her tips on how to sew a perfectly-fitted tee. Jersey is the material of choice for T-shirts, just take it from our expert: “It’s perfect for clothes that you want to feel comfortable in all day long. The lightweight material is formed of a single knitted layer, and can be made from cotton silk, viscose, polyester and more.” Once you’ve completed the body of the tee, it’s time to add a round neckline for a classic look. But before you do so, you should keep in mind Tilly’s technique: “Rather than looking at the seam allowance guide when sewing the neckband, keep an eye on the folded side to check that it stays the same distance from the edge of the presser foot all the way round.” And finally, the hem! It’s a good idea to test it on a fabric scrap first. If the raw edge curls up a lot or if the hem ends up looking wobbly, Tilly suggests: “Apply some sticky-back hemming tape to the wrong side of the raw edge before pressing it under as this will help to stabilise the hem as you’re sewing it.” Take all of this into account, and you’ll be sporting a T-shirt Marlon Brando would be proud of! 90
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TEE TIPS When deciding on the right jersey for your T-shirt, it’s vital to pick a piece that’s practical, comfortable and will hug your body in all the right places. Luckily for you, these Girl Charlee picks fit the bill!
This floral material would look fabulous with a contrasting neckband, £8.95 per metre
The abstract-print jersey contains every colour imaginable! £8.95 per metre
Harriet Worsley chats about the rise of the T-shirt in 100 Ideas That Changed Fashion, £14.99 laurenceking.com ALL OF THE FABRICS ARE FROM GIRLCHARLEE.CO.UK