PNHOI,E
PHOTOGRAPHY HISTORY AND INSTRUCTIONS
3 Linglie Mill, Level Crossing Rood, Selkirk, TDZ sEQ, www.
f
I i
ghtsof foncy.co. uk
O l99B Deryck Henley. All Rights
Reserved.
UK
Pf,mkmflffi P&arytmgrap&ey Who would have thought that
We'd'also like to introduce you
in the twenty first cenfury we
to the development which led
would be cclebrating
to the present day camera.
a
Pinhole Camera?
Since the earliest stages of the'Camera Obscura', to the
This progression over the centuries, pays homage to the philosophers, scientisls,
high-tech modern
scholars, mathematicians
35mm camer-
.
as, the basics
and showmen who all contributed to
',,
are much the
prcsent dair pho-
same.
tography.
Here we in-
ln an era
troduce you to
whcre the digital age
the simplestform
of photography,
is taking oveq
where the lens is a basic pin-
we must nevef forget the sim-
hole. Not that
pler ways of
the results
pro jecting and capturing a moment in time, to cherish and
will
be in
any
inferior. Many pinhole photographs are exhibited in g,alleries rurd
way
keep forever.
museums around the world, and
You never know, in years to
sland up'4ainst more contempo-
come your photographs could
raryphotography
be hanging in
With this camela and some
museums
our galleries and
guidelines described in thls book,
as'lvorls of afi'. Good luck and we hope
you can create your own photo-
this brings you
gaphs tirne and time again,
hours offun.
inany
fire Beginning
wrote in 1637 abontision and
The hand shadow must be one of
image and it appears upside down
the Camera Obscura saying the
the simplest and earliest
as
ways of projecting
an ima4e. Although
we take this for granted,
Rene Descartes (1596-1650) the eye, He compared the eye to
retinais the screen of the camera.
illustrated by Frisius.
These earlier Camera obscuras wcrc rnainly usecl
On the left are various drawings
lirr astr<lnomi-
was primarily known for his workin perspective and drawing. He gave a full description of the
itwasprob-
showing this.
In
czil llurposes.
ablythe first step which
Onc intcresting
led to manyscienfific experiments
leading to simple photography.
This Jamous drawing by Friseius shows clearly a Camera Obst'ura.
illustration takcn lrom a lgth cen-
Niceron wanted to show that the image size had to do with the distance
a portahle (;uncra Obscura from
the subject was away
16ll.
from the lens.
This
w..r"s
used by Thomas
Keplcr ( I 57
I-
163(D to observe the
movemenls
<il'
the planet Mercury.
ln
l(r19, Ohristopher Scheiner ( I575-
1650) demonstrated
Although these scientists and mathematicians are too numer-
in tlrc lirrm of acute. 'l'his rilso used a lens
give a simple account of the
landmarls which led to pho-
Canera Obscura and its use.
tury English lincyclopcdia, depicts
it rrxlnr-tylc Camera Obscura
ous to mention here, we will
co r le
The top drawing below shows the pyramid closer to the lens and the inverted image larger, The bottom drawing shows the
pyramid further away and the projected image on the
to
ct the inverted
sheet much smaller.
itrtitge.
Athanasius Kircher (1602-1630)
tography as we know it today,
Lrlt it Kcpler's portable
We start
('ttntru Oltscura,
in t544, vtherc
1652, Jean-Francois Niceron
u,hilr ltclrtu,is
shows us in his 1646'Ars Magra lucis Et Umbra' (The GreafArt of
matician and physician called
tight and Shadow) experiments using a room-size Camera ObscuraA student of Kircher,
Gemma Frisius. He observed and
Gaspar Schott
illustrated the eclipse ofJanuary
1666) published his
24th, t544 using a Camera
'Mrgia Universalis Naturae Et Artis'
there was a Dutch mathe-
Obscura.
The'Camera obscura'
(min for
dark room), is where a real life
image is projected onto a flat surface through a small hole or apertnre.
This projection, as in your pinhole camera, inverts the 2
St'
ltr
in a
r' s rlntu'in g
(t608-
(Wonders of Universal Nature and Art)
in
1557. He clearly shows on the right here the image from outside the room inverl-
d
onftewallinside.
[rom the eighteenth century onwards, the Camera
Many famous artists are thought
During the nineteenth century,
to have used aCamera Obscurato
several large Camera Obscuras
Obscura became more of
cr eate an image. The s evente enth
were built as places of enter-
drawing aid. Wittr the
century Dutch painter 'Vermeer'
a
tainment and education.
A lot of these were built in
is thought to have worked this way. Also the German artist 'Durer' made wood cuts showing'aicls to clrawing', These methods were very helpfrrl with perspective.
places ofgreat altraction such as sea-side resorts or places Here we have examples
of some of the old Cam-
era Obscuras, most of which have long gone. Some though, still remain and are still open
help from a lens it would allow
artists and draughtsmen to accurately sketch any image they required.
to the public such as the
RM
This meant that to achieve the required image, alandscape or
Mile, Edinburgh,
WS&rl:rif ;:,':-'t'
building for instance, they had to become more portable.
'llf.1@S$W .-.r
Tbe
sign on tbe side ofthe buikling
' ' ir,']' on the lefi says;'AIIERA OBSCUM HE MOST WONDERFUI AND ENCIIAI,IIING F.YHIBITION.
By the end of the nineteenth
Marrelotts
Miniature Yiew s of tbis lrne Iy Cwden Shouing all the People & Cbildren Mouing lihe Faries. Boats, Foliage,
Here left and below we have a
Flying Birds. Catlle. Horses & Car iages, aauing Flags Elc. Friends can
picture advertised in 1897 as 'Deans Solar Sketchette'. You
be Recognized altboagb so remarh-
ably small as to a.ppear extremeb) Iaughable. It Sbous eaerything on
simply put the drawing paper into
tbe Garden as
the base of the camera and inserted your hand through the cloth sleeve and
drawwhatyou
sant,
the great union callrr"u^^t
commercial Camera Obscuras avzilable. These were simple boxes with a sliding lens for
Douglas in the Isle of Man,
focusing. Many ingenious ways
Agiant cameradfte Cliff
the Clifton Observalory in
Bristol all in the IIK
were adapted to draw the image
House in San Francisco and one
you could see.
in Santa Monicain the USA
4
of
great beauty.
it
appears.
The First Cameras
The First images Tbe earliest known photograPh is credited to a wealthy French callc d. Jo sep h N i cep h ore Nie|cs (1765-1839. He crcated this image called 'View from
Ian cnr ner
the window at Gras'in 1826, The photograPb was nnde on top ofNiepce's bome using a peutet plate sensitise d u i tb Judea. Takenfrom a Camera Obscura, the exposure was eigbt hours long.
William Henry Fox Talbot, be-
With the
tvteen 1844 and 1860 was instru-
of'light
mental in advancing the process
discovery
sensitive material' during the early
ofphotography.
nineteenth century this
Talbot madc nnny exPuiments.
was to change the Camera Obscura
In kte 1835 at his home in England, he produced tbis phongraph ofanindan at his
into the simple
The first cameras
plate cameras. kr 1900, Eastnan
wentmuchinline
infoduced fte now farnous 'Box
with the
Brovmie u'hich was sold for $1 in the USA and five shillings in
devel-
opment of pho-
England It sold over 100,000 in
tography. Early
fintvear.
camefas wefe
the
fairly crude
This was to become the demise of
woodenboxes.
pinhole photograpfur
These improved
using beautiful timber such as teak and mahogany
with finely engineered brass fittings.
Betrly cameras kke tbese ex-
arnples uere band-made.
Although cameraswere
picture aboue is tbe'tr[ot$etrap' camera
The
home tahen ui,tb a Cmnera
cunetL. Earlylight sensitive
or photographic materials were very
slow to react to light.
w
To compensate for this a
from \ W
lens was added to the camera to
increase the 'aperture' or hole size. This helpedto shorten the time
it took taking a picture without los-
Sir William
ing the picture darityor focus,
Crookes, John Spiller
This was to mean tha pure pin-
and Villiam de Wiveleslie
hole photography took more of a back seat while photography
Abney,
using a lens progressed.
photography.
There were a few pinhole camera
Probably one of the oldest was an English Archaeologist called
pioneers though. Sir David Brews-
all
all in England were
early pioneers
to try pinhole
ter, an English scientist, was one of the first to make pinhole photo
Flinders Petrie (1853 -1942).
grapts in the 1850's. He was dre one
in the 1880's, he produced many pinhole photograhs.
to create the
5
word'pinhole'.
During his excavations in Egypt
ffi.
prodaced Kodah
and a'Komhi'
S"i***x$u.$ L*
ffiw
ffiffi#:&% \ re
rehyrâ&#x201A;Źalytookotr
hlmaddnpfiltedcrn-' w:Sllr azsilnwwdesignedto "'-:--#
it. Eastrnan's Kodak pocket camera was the use
fust mass-produced version and was inexpensive c ompared with
\Pubtisbed in an Amuican
a
20tb
century
pinlnb
\cam-
tight
The Principles
With a camera,
In a darkened
the brighter the
Having shown you the history of
for this is that the optical image
room, it is diffi-
the camera, here we show you
is made up of tiny 'circles of
cult to see objects
the exposure.
simply how it works.
confusion'. When the circles of
clearly. In fact in a
Focus
confusion are small enough, they
All light travels in straight lines,
light, the shorter
rflera, unlike a
are called 'points' and the optical
cafircrawith a lens, has an 'infi-
image is considered to be in
completely dark room you can Sun ralts trauelling i.n straight lines. rays travelling wave your arms in front of your outwards from a light source
nite' depth offocus.
focus. Therfore, points offocus.
faceandsee nothing!
the'pinhole' with the right size hole will keep all the
A pinhole
image in focus.
pinhole creates areas of confu-
i'"-_" ,I " r,;-]'..-
You will probably notice if you take a photograph of a person
sion the same size as the pinhole
i !
close up, the background becomes blurued. A clear or sharp image is known as'in focus'and
These little circles of confusion
blurred image is known as 'out
Experiment by constructing the
The pinhole
c
This means
a
c mera has infinite depth of field because the
lines through the
;
binbole..
I da II ":,'"'-.";.:c,--, I
"
'{r'--
I
all over the inside of the camera. ..*
are small enough to be regarded as points of focus.
camera in this kit and leave off the
of focus'.
whether it is the sun, a light bulb
Iight rays trauel in strai,ght
In
the
or candle. When these rays hit an
same way
object they are reflected again in
our eyes are
straight lines. What we see with
I'
designed to see, a camera needs
our eyes is the object illuminated
fight to work. Any form of white llght is alright, but like your eyes,
with reflecedlight.
the brighter the light the easier you see.
When you create a pinhole in
clmetl, the light rays diverge from a light source. They continue to diverge aft er passing
Experiment shotaing how the pinhole ueates an inf,nate depth offeld.
To experiment with this, poke pinhole in a thin sheet of
a
opaque
your
fingers a few inches in front the pinhole. You should see
of
The smaller the hole, the longer the
exposure time is needed, but the sharper the image will be. likewise
over the back of the cafircra,.
In a darkened room point
the larger the hole, the shorter the
the
exposure and the image
carflera towards a light source
catled (inverted). All the
will
be
less sharp.
image
proiected ttrough the camera will
A simple scientific explanation be in focus. 8
illumination.
of
and put a sheet of semi{ranspar-
your both and the image will appear upside the same clarity, therefore both down and back to front infinite depth of field.
the
back plate. Insert the black card
finger and the background
will be 'in focus'. This is
tlrou$
pinhole until theyhit the backplate
mateial and hold this close to ent paper such as tracngpaper one eye (if you wear glasses, or household greaseproofpaper take them off). Hold one of
your
With tracingpaper ouer the back ofthe open camera
lou uill
see the image.
It is important to get the hole as round and as clean as possible to allow the light rays to pass through the hole as straight as possible.
The Processing
Recording the Image
Modern photographic chemicals
fiknwill
have progressed
incredibly since
What actually records the image
silver and this area of the
in a currcra is a piece of pho-
be almost transparent.
the first stages ofphotography.
tographic film or paper. This is
This explains why the first part
All photographic chemicals
coaed with chemicals which are
of a black and white photograph
sensitive to light.
you have when you do your own
must be used with care and we strongly advise you to follow the
Black and white and colour film
developing is a negative.
safety instructions on page 18.
differ considerablyin their make-
A negative is where all the black parts of an image appear white
To achieve animage onto pho-
up so we will con-
tograhic paper once the film has been exposed to light, it is helful to understand the chemistry of de-
developer is less effective. To prevent this from happening a
solution, usually sodium sulphite is added.
Restrainer: To prevent the developer converting the halides which have not been effected by the light, a restrainer is added. This is called potassium bromide.
Fixer
cen["Ieon
andthewhitepars
black and
black.
white being the simpler
Thepa-
per that
veloping film.
of the two.
the final
Developer
still
the light.To remove
One side of
is
Photographic
blackandwhite film is coated with gelatin, this
made on,
developer con-
just like the film, is
is called the onthetefiistbe emUlSiOn.
SiuS_
negatiue alongside the positiue.
light. This is
Agent: A,chemical
To make a print from a negative,
silver bromide and silver iodide.
light has to pass through the
These are all called silver halides.
negative onto apiece
When natural light falls on these
sitive paper. This is usually done
crptals they are altered byit. The more light tha falls on them, the
by projecting light through the negative, but a simpler method
more they are affected.
is by contacting the negative
Vften a film is taken out of a
directly onto the paper.
cmnerl and put into developing liquid, all the crystals on which the light fell turn into metallic silver. So where a lot of light appea$ on the film (for example
Like the process in creating
a
light reflecting on water), there
oflight sen-
a negative, by projecting light
through this onto the second p^per, the light areas of the negative are allowed to hit the silver halides. Here we are creating another nega-
little or no conversion to metallic
is called a'positive'.
r0
tive of a negalive, but as you can't have a double nega.tive,
halides which can
it
be affectedby
film is put into a soution of sodium
the halides, *re
compound capable of chang-
ammonium) This is called the fixer and may also
ing the exposed grains of silver halide into black metalic silver.
have potassium metabisulphate
There are a few chemicals which
ing action and prevent any
will do this, but the most suitable for our use are hydroquinone and metol or phenidone. Alhali Accelorafor: Developing
staining,
added to to stop the develop-
Washing The film is finally washed in
in an alkali
water to remove unwanted silver
solution. The degree of alkalinity
halides and any chemicals remaining in it. The image is now minute grains of silver.
agents work best
controls the quality of the negalive,
Preseruatiue: A solution containing the developer and alkali tends to go brown through oxidtzation. When this happens the
will be a dense patch of metallic silver. Where a little or no light has struck the film there will be
and untouched silver
main agents.
Deueloping
also trealed wittr silver halides.
holds amixture of metalic silver
sists of four
sensitive to
in this are salt crystals made up of silver chloride, pended
After the stop bath, the emulsion
These appear black because they are so small they do not reflect the light.
F
The Cannsra
tale one of &e lss two pieces {they shouldbethesffie) and glue onia lhs
alh,E'&sdrr&rcowrs b*scrwedon. Taks cne sf the *i*e piece* and
workwithrpt gtrue
) tn. *"irri
drill hole *hcr:ld be * lh* npleftafthe luge hdf to
Ihe esmsr* lncludsal in dd$ box bes be€{r dsrigrsd t0
or
n*ils, and of
b*se. Ifyon {f,e rCIt gluing, danl warrg
iusmmtihe eideson
frrefulh, lock the gfooves into the
€on$ie
beeom-
pletely
front piece s{
ligbr fighr,
tlrc cffaer*"
Tel$
{*slong*syon
{fal<e
O"i*t
mmerass*&er), There is nothkg to $top y*u
{Saiil lr}rki{rts &e dd*
thcu$ fom ghitrg {rs sids and
{h*camsa"
if
yon wa*l
somelhing rnorc permnn*nt. Take the honl piect of the (tfte piece with
1
/.
t
tlin vpare
will rllaw th* phslopur
graphic p{per to sltde kio
eamwa*sily, lf you have som*
enclod snts the $urer
per
/
eover"
the blackcard andfold
it along the crcas€s. Fold the
piece
back fl*p* *s ilfu& trated.
glue,
itvill hdp if you dek
tee fixpsdawn.
OSlide the black paper
box
Ointo the camera with the opmhgbfubtr;kdihetus€*n AThe last piece of wood
snoufi uasity lock in ro com-
tn. hd) should simply drop ontc the c*mera and
7
pleterquxre.
I ***o
the fuole cut in
This
the *sslera. $tick the iabel
-7kke
piw d
tnally the last side
the small
the bole and scren rhis
into the pilothole ontl*e&u*of
the
llrc mmera {t&e gm*wn will be *re wneasfufront$md ffnd
ban&hcldingymr
bc*e togetler
ihe ba.x,
Mt$wof
keep the elaSic
ffwuaredulns
nalrc it li$t {S1!Fnt both 0f ths slartic bands *rcnrd the
it] " Ihe snall
$des, the base and t&e CIp of lhe casrcra" Ifyou haven't used Sl$e tlth
qill hold it
all*ryethm"Ifyouhme used glue, you
sll
need
lo hsld &e lid
$llh knepirlishrsghll
Sluingastrip of paper on top of the
hla*
card box will help when
fho**/*lar.*io*
unlmding the phnhgrrphic pqer from *recarnera Use
&is to sirnply to prll the blaek baxout, csp*cially
if tlm base of thecarnera ts glued-
t2
*ac&rdll*c* *e; 13
Ihe Darkroom Essentials: Safelight, whitelight, J
In thewinter, almostanyroom can he used at
Non Essentials (but nice)
closed. During the lighter months,
Music (but no Telwision)
a
Trays,
Before you can proceed with the
Developer, Fixer, Small acetate
first task of 'loading' the camera
Sheet, rilflater, Photographic Paper
to take your first picture, you need
ond finally a'Darft troom'.
a darlaoom and a safelight.
Helpful
A word of caution; no safelight is totally safe for light sensitive
Tongs, a Clock or Wach *rat shows
Seconds. Measuring Container, Pegs or Clips.
materials. Some light sensitive malerials are only safe wi*r a red to orange light for only a few minutes. This should be sfficient
time to load the paper in the cameta and develop it. Though with the photographic paper enclosed you should have a bit
of
extra time if you need it.
The Darkroom This sinplyis aroomyou
can completely darken whidr no w{rite ligfrt can perleft?Ie.
bulb inside (the recom-
mended maximum is only
7
watts).
room with a small window which
Be careful that the plastic is red
easilybe'blacked' out, such
and notjust painted as this is usu-
can
Waterproof Gloves, theezers or
nightwith the curtains
wa4e
as a bathroom which is ideal as
it
ally not safe enough.
there is usually a cellar or base-
will need to get used to working in a low red light and it may
ment or a cupboard under the
take a minute or two for your
stairs which may be suitable.
eyes
Please ensure though that the
selves to the dark.
darkroom is completely dark as the slightest light wil spoil your
Whitelight
has
runningwater. In older houses
photographic paper.
The Safelight As
we mentioned before, a safe-
li$t can be red to orange which will generally protect the
You
to acclimatise
them-
A bedside light or desk lamp are
idealwith a 60 waft bulb. A ceiling light would also work but it is better to take off the shade.
photographic paper while
loading the camera and developing the imIfyou are using a room with a small hole, you can age.
put red cellophane over
it to create a safelight. Other easy methods are covering a torch which is eqpecially usefirl in areas without electricity Also a red bicycle lamp or red tajl light from a car would work but
it
needs a very low
I5
switching on the whitelight.
from the hole to the photograhic paper), the ratio is 1:3, or F/3.
Nowyou're ready to shoot!
For example, a number
Thking a Photograph
needle is .18" and if used with a
its time to make the'pinhole'and
Before you take your photograph,
5" focal length, then:
loading the camera for your first
you need to determine how long
picture.
you need to expose the paper to
Taking a Photograph Now you should have
aCanery
a Darkroom and Safelight. Now
photographic paper pack before
Loading the Light Sensitive Material
get a good
Creating the Pinhole You shouldnowhaveyour
camera completed with the black
Make sure your eyes become acclimatised to working in this light,
You need
card insert in place. Now you
to have the
need to find the
cameta
needle from the
ready with
box.
the opening of the black box to the
Nowpush the pin through the black
cuneta
to the centre
shown on
of *re hole
page 13.
asyou can.
Open the
Make as
photo-
as
Technically there is
a
formula
the correct
exposufe. The focal length is the distance
from the pinhole to the photographic paper. So if the hole is one inch in diameter and the focal length is 3 inches (distance
these sort of calculations, so we have created some approximate
guidelines depending on bright
sun, sunlight, overcast, dull dayltght and interior roomlight. Remember, these are onlyguide-
lines and experimentation is encouraged, particularly with your pinhole size.
there will
carefirlly
be a black bag
to'round'the hole without
as
and inside
the needle and as cleanly
making it any
as
possible
containing the light sensitive paper. Pull one sheet
fully down the
bigger thantheneedle.
out and slide it
If your hole becomes ragged or you need to $e te a smaller hole, don't worry. A little strip of insulation tape (electricians black vinyl) is good.
back of the camera. Make sure the shiny side (emulsion) is facing the front of the camera. Put back the camera lid and replace the fwo elastic bands
make sure thal the mate-
around the camerato hold the lid
rial for the hole is not too thick
on firmly. Don't forget to close the
t6
is called an'Aperture',
bui don't worrv! We don't expect you to make
paperpack
,l
sibleturnin$.l
Plerase
print.
graphic
hole:;
pos-
5.00
back of the
card as close
clean a
.018 - tntt Complicated isn't it,
The pinhole in photographic terms
for determining
10
In the darkroom, load the paper with the shiny side towards the front of the camera.The safelight should not be closer than4-5 feetfromthe light sensitive paper.
17
Exposure guidelines based on size 10 needle (pin).
What to Photograph
Safetv
Whatever takes your fancywithin reason, but there are afewthings
to remember,
We must first outline that the dJveloping agent is an
irritant, fiust like many household chemicals) and must alwals be handled with caution and kept out of children's reach.
Pets are favourite subjects for some budding photographers,
Ifyou follow these safety guidelines, you will experience hours of fun instead of possible hours at the doctors!
but with long exposure times it
is dfficult expecting your pet to 'pose' for 30 seconds without moving. Likewise moving racing cars are definitely out!
Family and friends are good subjects as long as they can stay
Do you remember the bit about
'circles of confusion'? The smaller the pinhole with lets
lease read it all so nothing is
The simplest thing is to choose a
left to chance.
ffave
texfures.
should bewelllit andwellwrtilated.
is longer.
results if the subject is of'high
The bigger the pinhole with for
contrast' which you will get in full sun. A dull daywill generally
The'Shoot' Never try to hold the camera in
your hands when you are exposing the paper, Rest
it on a
wall, table, ground or arything that is solid and won't move. Vhen you're ready, put a finger
will find you get better
dull photograph. Try standing still in front of the carnenand quickly move out of the way half way through the exposure and you will appear on grve a
the photo as a ghost!
Have Fun!
18
instructions and don't rush.
f)unning water should be I\close to hand for cleaning and safety.
lobstacles to work on uhich
lwavs clean work areas and
,fLquipt.nt
with water after
use and keep all animals from any activi!/ arca.
A nlv commence developing f)rotect vour eyes with glasses (rl*t.n you have everything l. and use the gloves and you need ready to hand and you
tweezers povided when handling
have read all the instructions.
chemicals. Always wash your
ffthis
hands after use.
kit is suitable for children
Iou.,
12. Adults should
exercise discretion on which activities are safe and suitable for any child to do.
A Ll i..
pen all containers with
grea
and never store them
ff andle your chemicals with Ilr.spect and care at all times.
\Zou
I
are now ready to embark
on the exciting science of
producing your
own
photographs.
In the case of eye contact'. wasb the eye uitb plenfi of clean wa' terfor at least 15 minutes and imnrcdiatelit seek medical afiiice' kr case of skin contacf wasb area uith smp and waterfor 5 minuta'
When the desired time is up, close the shutter and keep the carnera shut until you get back
aim your cnmeraat the subject.
1n ive yourself plenty o f \fti*e to follow the
Ifan accident should occur please follow these guidelines.
steady and open the shutter.
to the darkroom. It may help if you draw an arrow on the lid so you can accurately
a solid sudace, clcar of
near food or drink and chemicals
on top of the camera to hold
it
I
must not be put near the mouth.
A
'still' subject. Be artistic and experiment with different You
exposure time.
mfety
rulesareobvioustomostreaders, there will probably be something below which you didn'tthinkof(odrerwisethere would be frr fewer accidents).
still long enough,
say a number 7, the finer the definition but the exposure time
instance a number 16 needle, you will need to shorten the
Although some of these
If Chemicals are swallowed: wash the mouth and, drinkfresh water. Do not induce uomiting and seek medical ad'aice. In case of Inhalation: ntoue outdoors turtesh air. Here we show the 'ghost ffict' as described above
In cases of Iniury: seek medical aduice
t9
Developing the Image
Make sure you have your gloves <rn
and the tweezers athand.
move it back and forth to remove any trapped bubbles.
will look slightly darker than it actually is due to
Once you have determined the
Holding the photographic paper
The negative
image on your photographic
dilufion, take off ttre seal under
paper. Before you can process
the bottle cap. Then use the cap
with the tweezers, slide it into the developer emulsion (shiny side)
the red light. Allow a few seconds
it you will need to mix the
to put the desired amount of 'capfuls'into
down and look at the time.
more to compensate for this.
After 10 seconds, turn the nega-
Generally it will take between
tive over to watch it develop. While in the developer, gently
and 2 minutes for this to develop.
Now you have 'exposed'your
chemicals.
It is not neces-
the1ray.
sary to mix the
Start off with
chemicals with
the water and
the safelight, these will not
addthe chemi-
'spoil'immedi-
cal. This is much safer if
ately. However,
the chemicals
the developer and fixer is
You
most effective
enough liquid
comfortable
in each tray to allow the pho-
at a
Remember how long it took.
start to splash.
room tempera-
ture. Too cold
I
Mixing chemicals in whitelight
need
tographic pa-
and the chemicals react slowly, too hot and the chemicals 'go off' quickly.
perto submerge. Don't forget to replace the cap on the bottle, we don't wmt arry
Always wear gloves when handling chemicals.
accidents!
Both developer and fixer are in
at one end, the fixer tray in the middle and the water ffay atthe
concentrated form. Different manufacturers recommend
their own ratio of dilution, so it is always advisable to
Start off with the developer tray
other end.
Developing the negative with the safelight. Put into the mixf(tce down for ten seconds and turn over and watch the image appear. The image will appear darker as you are working under a safelight.
Fixing the Negative
the the
10 seconds anda$tnteagainfor Once you think you have about 2 minutes before putting desired negative, lift it out of developer and put into the fixer, the whitelight on to check the
agunface down. Titrn over
after
result.
Usually you work from the left,
check the instructions on the
but it really doesn't matter as long as you remember which
bottles.
is which.
Developing the Negative strip of paper on the card box, simply pull the box up. If you didn't, you will need to Camera at hand, remove the pho-
tographic paper. Ifyou followed
the suggestion about gluing a 20
take the base off the carnera to push the box up and remove the photographic paper.
Fixing the negdtive with the safelight. Again put into the mix face down for ten seconds and turn ovet and gently agitate for about 2 minutes.
2t
Wash Lift again and rcpett
process
in the water for between
minutes.
1-2
terpieceuptodry.Ifyouhaven't got a line and pegs, just lay
Do not overwash as the
photo-
graphic paper will deteriorate washed too
Well done! Now hang your mas-
much.
if
it
Switch on the whitelight (or ask a friend to do it) for only 2-3 seconds.
0runt 1001, 1002 and switch
on a surface to dry naturally
the whiretght off.
or carefully use a hair dryer or awarm rudiator.
You can also expose the contact print by opening the
d'arkroom door. If it is not a bright light outside you will need to extend the time to 4-5 seconds. Repeat exactly what you did
to create the negative
-
develop, fix and wash.
Tips and Problems Wash the negative in water for between I and 2 minutes. Do not ovenyash as the photographic paper will deteriorate
Contact Printing You now have a dry negalive. Now
you have to create a positive or
'print' using the negative. easiest way is to make
The
a' contatt'
print.
facing down directly onto the photographic paper (emulsion to emulsion). Take the sheet of clear acrylic and
place this on top and use the two elastic bands to hold everything
in place. Make sure the
Take out a new sheet of
photographic
elastic
Developer once mixed will last
from a slightly underexposed
only one day in normal tempera-
(pale) negative,
ture. Once it starts to 'go off', it
The old saying goes, 'the
will turn from a 'pale straw'
produce
colourto brown. Thisis causedby
is learned by experience'.
oxidisation and the chemical has become srhausted (unumble).
So be
will go from clear to pale yellow when it goes off, L very
so you shouldn't make the same
subtle change. This will usually last a few days in normal room
COMMONEXPOSURE PROBLEMS If the paper rernains white or the image is very faint
The ftrer
bands are not covering the back
temperatufe.
of the negaive or this will show in your print. The negative and new
A slightly
Tips under exposed negative
n
a
If
a
abilityto
well exposed negalive
patient and experiment, but
keep a record ofrdratyou've done
mistake twice.
Ihe gaperwas loaded in the camera
lide
photographic pa-
will result
liglnt got
bagagun.
per needs to have as good a contact
negative is very pale, you will need
to increase exposure time.
The exposure was far too short.
Place this
as possible.
A slightly over exposed negative
You forgot to open the shutter.
Hold this towards your 50 watt light,
will result in a denser image. If the negative is too dark or dense,
If tlre inrye is very dak or bhk The camera has a light leak
nonearer than 1.5
you
will need to reduce
the
The paper has been exposed to
metâ&#x201A;Źs(4frd)nnldg
exposure time.
sureyourfingers are
You can always adjust the
light by mistake. Your exposure was far too long.
clear of the top.
contrast of your finished print
Good
paper and close the
new sheet
on top of the camera lid emulsion (shiny side) up. Place the negative, image 22
pale image.
a
the u'rong way round andrery
*rou$r
to the emulsion.
luck 23
Further Informatian wt*trs YOu
t*&t
mlT u$s$ tlptk'rluR ptrsTt){;aApr$e rapxlttso et{{$11$1"*, }'*fR tfi*Tor;&r?rff $rirmme $nOum sg a8m T0 RmL,lc& Tftst{.
Ilh*topnphle pqxr genenrlly is oniy:**il*bk i* l*rger size*" ynu will ner:d to {tif it kt tiiac }$iltg sci*$ns urder the rafill'ight" itlterilndyeh thE ehemie*l$ *an be ab*ri$ed fft$nl ft)tryislJlr!$l*xr*rlrl, fir'rv:ipl*m*i llrulir:ti{trlr{xnr.$iklilil}:i9IS ft* {}lll5,1i$5$$ **.*: h:miil$$ fh${, {ory, 15 X'rrlfu $t. Yonk*n, }iY ti}?gg :tl: gl't g$t ,{8g*
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L:K
illx*
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*n lmh $ritognphy ltnd pinhdeplr*i*gnrphlr Sb
ret*mmntlyou check*ith pur loeal libmry or b**lctore. Many $kneums
xnl gnlleries ktve colie*li$n-c of {dd cfrstexs and exhibits
tf
pho*graph*rs nrldr ll&
rw**meridp*** mr#ln$ tisrt**wsr
fo
cfou:Spaiqg
tdarar
ftf*e*di#g
rwd"
{n rlrc Lnit*qt,Kingdsn
ilatisu{t llrwcum nf PlntopphX fi}m & }elevisi.}l
Blll l$Q, }b* $l??4 ;01 030 Outkrck Tox*r & (ar*ers Ob${ura e*stl{lri{, Sdinburs!, [fitr ?X$. ?*l: 0l3l i?6 '}?ry krynl fhttogrnphic $odety The Set*gon, $likon $1, llath, SAI UlN. Tsl CI12?5 ,i6l 8,il Thc Sox tnlbai *{*seffr l*cock, Chippirgh:ux, $'iftshire, $Nl5 ][ti. &l t]l?49 7]$ 4i9 Sr*dford. lVe*t Yl;rk*htre,
The
Yi*tori*&xl *Ib*rt
$tu*ewxr
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In the United$t Ceory
f$n{n 9{X}
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i,iilt
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t{meun
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&*s;bmue, lt0.fue$$ l{Y l,l&}?. lb|:
Flxrtog$ry }?1 3j{il
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hfernatisnfll {entre of Fhor*grxphy 1t3{ fifth ivens*,
$ew Y*rh SYlil.l tS. lbl: ?t? Ed0 l?7? *Iu*euru of Plrotogtnpbie Artr 1$99 lil Prailo, $albo* Pnrk, &an *i**{}. *\ S'Il0t. lbl: 61Jl :}* :t51} The{B
*r'r *l$i} * numb* *f gr:r:d *'eh*lt*s on th* hisrorl of phr*ogrrrphli {x&er*1 pinhcte photogr*ph1'{tc, fix loo ouroer\}ur !n rnenlion. Pletrs cleckm:rlleb hlnq..*n"sut* as eoogie fur *pecific l*funrxitkx.
Stlptxght O lt){}{} l}eryck }lenley. Ali ftight$ Sc*erry*d Wth
?4
nrarq'
tlxrnl*
to rl*r{reiv Thomnr firr his hdp
xith &e proces*ing informn{ion.
M
PINHOI,E
PHOTOGRAPHY
HISTORY AND INSTRUCTIONS
3 linglie Mill, levelCrossing Rood, Selkirk, TD7 sEQ, www.
f
I i
g
htsof fo ncy. co. u k
@ 1998 Deryck Henley.
All Rights Reserved.
Stick this on the wall in your work area
We must
firsfly oufline dnt the developing agent is an
initant, (iust like many household chemicals) and rnust alwap be handled widr caulion and kept out ofchildrens reach.
Ifyou follow these safety guidelines, you will experience hours offun instead ofpossible hours at the doctors! f)lease
l-
read it all so nothing
is
left to chance.
ffroe a solid surface, clgar of L lobstacles
to work on udrich
Sould be well lit and well wdlaed"
instructions and don't rush.
R:,:::"f,xffi'';I#l; and safety.
A lwavs clean work arcas and with water after use and keep all animals from
A
nlv corilnence developing (,1*t .n you have everything
A.qipr.nt
you need ready to hand and you
any
hurercad all the instructions.
Drotect your eyes with glasses -l and use the gloves and
lTlhis ht
is suitable for children
I ou.. 12. Adults should exercise discretion on which activities are safe and suitable for any child to do.
A \,1.*.
pen all containers with great
and never store them
near food or drinkand chemicals must not be put near the mouth.
ive yourself plenty of time to follow the
acffity nea.
tweezers provided when handling
chemicals. Always wash your hands after use.
TTandle vour chemicals
.Flri,tt
reipect and care
at
all times.
$ou
I
are now ready to embark
on the exciting science of
producing your
own
photographs.
If an accident should occur please follow these guidelines. In tlre case of eye contact:ua,sh theeJ)ewithplenty of cbanwater
fw
at least 15 minutes and, immediately seek medical aduice.
Incasedskin conlacl;uash areawith soap ard,waterfu 5 minutes. If Chemicals are swallowed: wash the moutb and drinkfresh water. Do not induce uomiting and seek medical adaice.
In case of Inhalation'. mu)e outdoors to fresh In cases of Iniury; seek medical aduice
air
If you seek medical advice regarding any chemicals, plzue take the bottle with
pu.