Global Estonian Insights: Estonians in Berlin

VINCENT TEETSOV

Estonian communities, however vast or tiny, exist in virtually every country. While a valuable part of visiting or moving to another country is to befriend and spend time with locals, you may eventually miss engaging with your heritage. And so commences the search for other Estonians in your area.

If you’re ever in the hip and happening city of Berlin, Germany, don’t be surprised if you hear about some familiar Estonian activities.

Many of the concerts and events that take place in Canada and the United States are also happening there, when artists make tour stops in Germany’s capital. For instance, on June 30th, 2022, Puuluup performed at PANDA Platforma in the affluent neighbourhood of Prenzlauer Berg. On April 28th, 2022 the Estonian Embassy in Berlin hosted a screening of the documentary Põlvkond piiri taga, just like the Estonian Arts Centre did in Toronto.

There are also cultural gems that have not made it this far from Estonia. One of the most impressive happenings was the exhibition called Hello Mister Police Officer, taking place in June 2022, about the street art hub that Tartu has become. Artists like KAIRO, Edward von Lõngus, and Stina Leek put up their art at Neurotitan Gallery in the central neighbourhood of Mitte. The exhibition told the origin story of Tartu’s street art, drew attention to Tartu’s status as European Capital of Culture in 2024, and even indicated Berlin as a possible primary influence for Tartu’s graffiti.

Geographical proximity certainly helps in facilitating a link to Estonia. In fact, did you know that Berlin once had a café and bar that emphasized all things Estonian? It was called Jäääär (meaning “the edge of the ice”). Starting in 2013, this little slice of Estonia at Brunnenstraße 56 championed poetry, weekly open mics, film screenings, comedy, coffee (with an optional splash of Vana Tallinn), wine, and Estonian beer. You could get a bowl of kama for dessert, too, if you were so inclined. Jäääär was visited by the likes of former President of Estonia Toomas Hendrik Ilves and former Prime Minister of Estonia Andrus Ansip. Sadly, the café closed down in 2017.

If you think about Germany in an Estonian context, what comes to mind might be the displaced persons camps where many Estonian refugees lived temporarily between fleeing occupation and war and arriving in other parts of the world.

However, what you’ll find in Berlin today is a contemporarily-focused group of Estonian expatriates who are staying in touch with their favourite customs and adding to the cultural energy of the surrounding metropolis. Particularly effective at congregating Estonian expats is Berliini Eesti Kultuuriselts KAMA, founded in 2015.

The society initiates and points the way to many manifestations of Estonian culture. Music enthusiasts join the Berliini eestlaste laulukoor, which makes up part of the European Estonian Choir. The education of children up until the age of 13 is supported by Berlin Eesti Kool, founded in 2009, for which students attend on Saturdays on a bi-monthly basis. Eesti Rahvatants Berliinis has kept folk dance going, led by dance professional Meljo Kaaviste and performing at events like Vabariigi Aastapäev and Jaanipäev.

To see what Estonians are up to across Germany, follow eesti.de on Facebook and keep an eye on their website at eestlased.de. Their events calendar lists the top dates relating to Estonia, such as Usedomer Musikfestival on Usedom Island, where Estonian compositions and performers were made the focus of the 2022 festival.

There is much in common between the Estonians in Germany and those in North America, in that we’re seeking ways to make Estonia known where we live. But Estonians’ expression of identity reacts differently with the local culture depending on where you go. The next time you travel, see what differences and similarities you can identify.

Berlin Estonians at their 2016 Jaanipäev celebrations.

Photo: berliinieestikultuuriselts.com