Eternal by Jen Marshall

ETERNAL N A T U R A L

H E A L T H

A N D

B E A U T Y

Summer

Special

June 2011

ETERNAL 78

June 2011 16 The Ugly Truth Ingredients used in commercially available cosmetics 19 Why Organic? Choosing healthy, natural and organic body care 21 Skin Care Basics The importance of cleansing and moisturising healthily 27 Naturally Beautiful Creating an effortlessly healthy glow 30 Summer Eco Beauty Round-Up Natural beauty products this season 39 Perfume: How Natural are you Willing to go? Natural vs synthetic fragrances 46 INTERVIEW Maria Hatzistefanis Maria’s natural luxury skincare secrets

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

Beauty Essentials

54 INTERVIEW Simon Ellis Hair colour and styling trends for the season 58 Essential Looks 40s romance vs the dark amazons summer styling 67 Anti-Ageing Natural and synthetic peptides 70 Can I Trust my ‘Natural’ or ‘Organic’ Body Cream? How natural is natural? 78 Beauty Essentials Selection of the best natural beauty products 88 Natural Tanning Expert tips for a perfect, healthy tan 96 Ask the Experts Your problems, expert solutions

Photographs SOLVEIG SELJ

Editor’s Note

‘WHEN YOU PICK UP A MAGAZINE, what is the first thing to catch your eye? Is it the articles about famous women of today, or is it the half-naked girl modelling the latest fashion? The media plays a major role in our cultures where standards of beauty are created based on models, causing women to feel insecure about their bodies by promoting a standard of unrealistic beauty. The barrage of messages about thinness, dieting and beauty tells ‘ordinary’ women that they are always in need of adjustment - and that the female body is an object to be perfected. It is a cycle of trying to be beautiful, when we should all be striving to be healthy.’ * In this issue, we address the alternatives to dieting and cosmetic surgery, healthily preparing you and your body for summer 2011. Discover the new season’s hair styles and colour trends with words from Simon Ellis, Global Director of Schwarzkopf Professional, enhance your natural beauty with our beauty essentials guide, and find everything else you need to know to ease you into the summer months.

Jen X

*www.womensstudiesjmu.wikispaces.com

Jen Marshall Editor-in-Chief

The Ugly Truth I believe most of us chemicals do indeed ‘Over 90% of all take for granted that suffer the conseINGREDIENTS in the popular cosmetquences. The real commercially ics, soaps, lotions available cosmetics motivation behind and hair care prodthe Cosmetic Indusare DIRECTLY linked ucts we buy in our lotry’s disconcern is to serious health money and profit. cal salons, drug and RISKS.’ departments stores Chemicals, dyes and are safe. Why as confillers mentioned besumers would we be able ingredients in commer- low are found in almost to buy and use a product cially available cosmetics every cosmetic product on our skin, lips, eyes are of synthetic origin and because they can be and hair every day if they directly linked to serious manufactured incredibly were harmful? This wasn’t health risks like cancer, inexpensively and have a even a question I had ever infertility, kidney and liver very long shelf life. If they asked myself because I disease and severe skin were to discontinue using was so confident in my issues. Most of the large these chemicals for more products and the well cosmetic and personal- healthy alternatives they known companies that care companies will tell would be severely cutting produce them. I first be- you not to worry. their profit margins to give gan investigating cosmet- They agree that there are you chemical free beauty ics when I decided to start many chemicals in their products. In this battle my own cosmetic compa- products, but say that the their profits supersede ny. When I first began in- quantities are small and your health. As a convestigating the ingredients will not affect you. At first sumer your only response in my make up and show- glance this seems reason- should be to discontinue er products like soap and able. Unfortunately, this is using their products. Adshampoo, I was shocked a sugar coated public re- vertising through celebto discover that almost all lations response and does rities, slick magazines of them contained not one not identify the true issue and TV ads, cosmetic or two but multiple hard athand. Medical science companies give hope for to pronounce, synthetic, has proven that humans a brighter, younger comvery dangerous chemi- exposed over time to very plexion, more beautiful cals. Over 90% of all small quantities of harmful hair and sexier features.

What they don’t mention is the long list of chemicals that go into that promise. Since the industry is not regulated, many cosmetic companies don’t even bother to list the ingredients on their products. It is concerning then, in light of all the information we know about the chemicals in the products that we slather on our skin every day, that we are not more informed and outraged about the implications of constantly introducing these chemicals into our bodies. Little is known about the long term effects of the petroleum chemicals and synthetic products that we rub into our skin on a daily basis in the form of cosmetics, lotions, shampoos, etc. Many people use cosmetics and lotions to cure skin issues. Ironically, the products they are using and hoping for a cure are the very same products that are causing the problem! The typical adult uses nine cosmetics/ personalcare products a day with an average daily load of around 126 chemicals. Most of these chemicals (including the one’s mentioned above) are absorbed into your body through your skin. Cosmetic companies use synthetics and fillers in their products to keep costs down and give themselves the greatest profit margin possible. What you are paying for is an image of beauty perpetuated in advertisements. You are not usually paying for quality with most commercial cosmetic brands. To save your skin and your body from exposure to a lifetime of harmless chemicals, inform yourself, read labels, investigate products if they don’t list ingredients. There are natural alternatives that are better for you and your skin.

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

Kristin Adams AfterglowCosmetics.co.uk

Why Organic? OUR SKIN IS MORE THAN AN outer covering; it is the main defence against external injury. It is a living, breathing organ, the largest in the body. Much of what we put on our skin is absorbed into our body, a scientific principle illustrated by nicotine and hormone patches. Likewise, the synthetic chemicals in many skincare preparations soak into the skin and, as the body cannot recognise and process these â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;foreignâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; substances, often accumulate in the

tissues with the potential over time to cause an allergic skin reaction and / or disrupt other systems in the body. Thus, choosing certified organic body care is as important in decreasing the toxic load on the body as choosing a healthy (and organic!) diet. Plants grown organically yield the purest oils and extracts, free from herbicide and pesticide contamination. Essential-Care.co.uk Photograph JUSTIN GRANT

Skin Care Basics

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

WHY IS CLEANSING SO IMPORTANT? Cleansing the skin is necessary to remove dirt, pollution, makeup and other impurities that build up on the skin. Some of nature’s best cleansers must contain oil because the skin makes and has a natural layer of oil called sebum. A cleanser must be able to mix with the skin’s natural oils to help remove unwanted residue from the face. This may seem difficult to believe, but natural oils that mimic the skin’s natural

sebum are a wonderful way to cleanse the skin. This is why most of our cleansers contain natural oils such as jojoba, coconut, sesame or olive. The main purpose of holistic skin care is to bring balance back to the skin. Often overuse of harsh, alcoholladen cleansers, toners and creams cause the skin to produce too much oil in an effort to replenish the moisture that it loses due to these unhealthy commercial products.

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF A TONER? Toners are an important step in the skin care process for a variety of reasons. They help close the pores that have been opened during the cleansing process. They also help restore the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural pH balance. The skin creates a barrier called the acid mantle, which is controlled by the sweat glands and the sebaceous glands. This barrier protects the body from diseases invading it through the pores. We often strip the acid mantle with the use of harsh soaps and chemicals when trying to cleanse the skin. This is counterproductive because bacteria, makeup and pollution are allowed an easier passageway into the body. The body then has to overwork to re-create the acid mantle producing extra oil, which can lead to acne and/or dry skin. Toners help the skin create a harmonious balance. MOISTURISE Moisturisers are a crucial final step in the beauty ritual process. They provide a protective barrier between your skin and the outside world, where pollution, bacteria, makeup and

chemicals can damage to your skin. Moisturizers hydrate the skin cells and soften the skin providing a rejuvenating effect. SCRUBS Scrubs remove unwanted dead cells that often lead to blackheads, acne, dryness and wrinkles. Most of our scrubs have gentle plantor fruit-based exfoliating properties that help remove dead skin cells, which make the skin appear dull or lackluster. Scrubbing the face also brings circulation to the area, which benefits skin tone and elasticity. Most of our cleansers are made with very mild exfoliating grains. Your skin will benefit with more invigorating scrubs used in addition to regular cleansing. Use scrubs with caution if you have sensitive skin. STEAMS Steams are a crucial part of any skin care system. We are bombarded with thousands of chemicals in our daily life making steams a necessary addition to any skin care practice. Steams allow for a deep cleansing of the pores. They soften the skin by opening pores and allowing perspiration to assist in the elimination of toxins and blackheads. Steams also stimulate greater circulation to the face, which improves the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance, tone and texture. When the pores are open they are able to receive the healing properties of herbs in an accelerated manner making them more effective. GoldenPathAlchemy.com

Photograph JUSTIN GRANT

Naturally Beautiful FOR MANY, MAKE-UP IS AN ART. Women have been embellishing themselves in it for centuries, and it still plays a great role in a woman’s life today. It should not only enhance your god-given looks but also compliment individual colouring and features without detracting from natural beauty. Painting on tons of make-up, imitating the ‘I have foundation on’ face, is definately a big faux pas. But whatever style you choose to adopt , be it glamour or au natural, be sure to pamper and treat your skin kindly with the finest organic make-up. Cosmetic companies like Mac, Elizabeth Arden and Estee Lauder have

dominated the industry for years, successfully battling to sway the public into purchasing their products over others. But at what cost are you wearing such established brands? Do you truly know what is in the products that you end up spending so muhc money on? Granted, every woman wants to look good wearing make-up. Most days we apply eye shadow, mascara, a little blusher, splash of lipstick and a touch up of concealer to hide the odd spot. So, you look good, you feel good but you have just exposed yourself to a combination of poisonous chemicals. Soaking through the skin and into the blood-

stream, these toxins potentially have breast tumours; however, in the interthe opportunity to react badly when est of being fair, no casual link has yet inside our bodies. been proven. This is where organic make-up Formaldehyde, commonly found in comes to the rescue. It is renowned mascara, is a highly toxic liquid confor staying away from lethal chemicals taining lethal cacinogenic ingredients. using natural ingredients only. They Used to preserve the life of several work alongside your skin and procosmetic products, its continuous use vide that effortlessly healthy glow, in can lead to various health problems comparison to nasty toxins that can including respiratory irritation and imwreak havoc on your complexion. Ormune system toxicity. ganic make-up proves that it doesn’t Ever wonder how you get that shine compromise on style nor substance. from your favourite lip gloss? It comes It is increasingly becoming popular from petroleum jelly, a by-product of amongst women who are looking for crude oil that can suffocate and block healthier products but also brilliant reyour skin from oxygen. After use it sults that draw out true natural beauty. leaves an oily film over your skin, inHere are 4 great reasons to switch to terfering with the body’s own moisusing colourful certiturising mechanism. It ‘NATURAL fied organic make-up. advertises to protect F, D&C and D&C col- ingredients work from drying, but by alongside your our pigments, widely dissolving sebum out used in eye shadow, SKIN and provide of the skin it actually blusher, eye liner and that effortlessly makes it drier, tighter lipstick, are comprised and more prone to HEALTHY glow’ of coal tar and crude chapping. The result oil, which is highly carcinogenic. They is an unhealthy sensitive skin. Many contain heavy metal salts that deposit lipsticks also contain lead which can toxins on the skin, causing sensitivity prompt brain and kidney damage and and irritation. harm the central nervous system. Parabens, synthetic preservatives, Nvey Eco, an Australian company, is are used as inhibitors of microbial one of the most trusted and best-sellgrowth in order to extend shelf life of ing brands worldwide. Certified by the products. Commonly found in founOrganic Food Chain, they fuse fashion dations and other water based prodand nature together, injecting this aesucts, when applied to the skin, and thatic into all of their products. Using a absorbed through the pores, they can harmony of carefully chosen plant and imitate estrogen in the body. Too much mineral ingredients, including natural estrogen pumping in the body can rebotanical extracts and powerful antisult in weight gain, mood swings and oxidants, their make up leaves your potentially breast cancer. One study skin feeling completely nourished. conducted had shown certain paDevliering high performance, the Orrabens to be found in samples of ganic Compact Powder is definitely

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

one to assure full natural coverage and refresh existent foundation. Talc free, it contains jojoba oils and corn silk, perfect for people who have sensitive skin. Use this with their new nine piece collection of environmentally friendly make-up brushes for easy glide. Available from ecrium.co.uk, Living Nature Concealer is an essential beauty item that minimises the appearance of dark circles and imperfections. We all have those days where a spot appears at the most inappropriate time, before a date or a job interview. Banish them with this creamy concealer for long durability. Award winning brand Lily Lolo comes from the brain child of Vikki Khan. Her main initiative is to prove that organic make up, like hers, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to compromise on colour. The Mineral Foundationcomes in 17 different shades to perfectly suit individual skin tone. Ranging from Porcelain, Warm Peach, Butterscotch to Hot Chocolate, they enhance that flawless skin look. And to sculpt cheekbones like a pro, try Loloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Blushers which adds instant glow, blending effortlessly into the skin. Pick from the bursting shades of Candy Girl, Ohh La La, Rosebud, Clementine or Rosy Apple. Lavera has everything you need to try out new trends this season. All of their products are certified 100% natural and contain organic ingredients, so no horrible nasties hidden there. Their lip gloss range, in colour of berry, orange, burgundy and transparent, are all emollient and non-sticky oils of Vitamin E and Jojoba oils. The ingredients used repair moisture, protect anti-ageing and leave you with lips

feeling luscious and kissable. Before setting up Inika in 2006, Miranda Bond and Jenni Williams both realised that other natural cosmetic lines were either lacking in performance, or still used artificial harmful ingredients. And with their colourful array of 24 eye shadows, its unparalleled to the world of regular make up brands. Choose from tasty tones of Autumn Plum, Fairy Floss or Lychee that can be used wet or dry as a shadow or eye liner. Visit inika.com to continue the hunt for your favourite. The quest for 100% certified organic make up is at times very difficult. There are only a small number of organic brands out on offer to the eco-friendly woman today. With many companies falsely advertising their products as something they are not, consumers are left confused on who to believe. But take a good look at nature. With such an abundance of kind to the skin ingredients, colour and style, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to work it into our own beauty routines. So here are the brands. Grab yourself a brush. Now start to apply. Emma Pointing EcoChicCollection.co.uk

Photograph CLAIRE HARRISON

Lavera Family Sun Spray SPF 15 £14.50 >

Summer

eco beauty round-up

ONE PIONEERING NATURAL/organic skincare company Lavera has reformulated its Sun Sensitiv mineral sunscreens in line with recently revised Colipa recommendations to now feature an additional UV filter, the mineral ingredient zinc oxide. Together with titanium dioxide, which also acts as a natural sunlight reflector, these mineral ingredients are coated with Stearic Acid (from coconut oil) rendering the particles inactive i.e. they cannot penetrate the skin. The lotions also contain skin-caring, cold-pressed organic sunflower oil, organic shea butter, organic calendula extracts, organ-

ic aloe vera gel, vitamins A, C and E, organic rose petal and lavender essences, and organic almond and jojoba oils. TWO This wonderfully cooling lotion makes a great after sun drench. Milky in texture the lotion soaks in quickly, leaving skin with a fresh, cool feeling. It is made with 100% natural ingredients (BDIH certified) including organic aloe vera which is combined with protective jojoba oil, apricot oil and shea butter. Aloe vera is well known for its healing properties. For centuries desert Arabs used the gel inside the aloe leaves for sunburn, to offer immediate relief and promote

< Weleda Aloe Vera Body Lotion £7.95 Dr. Bronner’s Magic Liquid Soap £4.99 >

Incognito Insect Repellent < £7.99

Neal’s Yard Remedies Organic Lip Formula £5.20 >

against all small biting and stinging insects’ including mosquitos, ticks and midges. It even works against fleas and is safe to spray onto pets. Made using use ‘a secret blend’ of 100% natural ingredients, all containing an organically certified citronella the formulation is gentle, and has none of the health risk associated with chemical repellents such as DEET. The range includes a 100ml camouflage spray, citronella incense sticks, after-sun moisturiser, and a 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner and camouflage as

well as soaps. Incognito is sold direct through their website www.lessmosquito.com and many chemists and health stores. FIVE This 99% organic clear balm will keep your lips soft and smooth for the rest of the summer. Made with moisture replenishing organic shea nut butter and an assortment of oils including rosehip, coconut, avocado, pumpkin seed and lemon. Matilda Lee/Laura Sevier TheEcologist.org 31

Photograph CLAIRE HARRISON

healing. Many people keep a plant as a natural quick fix for burns and scalds when cooking or ironing. THREE The magic of Dr. Bronner’s soap is its versatility, with 18 uses from 1 bottle. You can use it to clean almost anything - your body, teeth, bathroom, kitchen, clothes and even your pets. There are 7 main varieties: peppermint, Lavender, Eucalyptus, Citrus, Almond, Rose, unscented Baby Mild and Tea Tree which can even be used to treat minor cuts. Completely biodegradable, the soaps are made with certified Fair Trade and organic ingredients sourced from India, Ghana, Palestine, Israel, and Sri Lanka. Dr Bronner’s contain no synthetic foaming agents, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, dyes or whiteners and use 100% post consumer recycled (PCR) cylinder bottles and paper labels. Available from health food shops including Planet Organic, Whole Foods and online from the Natural Store. FOUR Rigorously tested by the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine, incognito claims to be ‘very effective

Get Your Glow

Photograph JUSTIN GRANT

A LONG WINTER OF TOO MUCH comfort food and sofa time can leave us feeling less than radiant. But with spring in the air it’s time to get your glow back in time for the summer. This month we take a look at detox. Detoxification rituals have been part of human medical care for centuries. Many societies have used an annual detox or purification ritual to heighten and maintain wellness. Open a magazine, pop into a health food shop, log on to the internet and different forms of detox seem to be everywhere. From foot patches to body scrubs and juices, detox has become a health buzzword. When we view detox as a period of rest from our normal eating patterns, which ‘Rather than just taking two for many of us can weeks out from your regube a series of take lar eating habits, the IDEA home meals, quick of detox should be focused lunches and missed on improving and MAINTAINING breakfast, the idea is HEALTH.’ a good one. Taking in an increased amount of fresh vegetables, quality protein and whole grains is great for getting yourself in optimal health in the lead up to summer. But what are the essential components of a healthy detox and is a fast or juice detox actually good for you? We speak to Naturopath Rebecca Edwards who explains the concept of detoxification, from a naturopathic perspective.

‘Detox’: what does this word conjure up in your mind? A period of denial? Staying away from your favourite foods? Two weeks in January when you starve yourself in an attempt to atone for

The body does however have in built methods to eliminate these toxins. Our skin is the largest detoxification organ we have. Alongside the liver, exhaling and elimination pathways, we are actually

‘A DETOX should involve eating a wide range of foods over several REGULAR MEALS per day - and ENJOYING it!’ Christmas excess? Whatever ‘detox’ means to you, it probably brings to mind restriction, not having fun, and feeling guilty when you can’t stick to the rules. Let’s first take a look at what toxins actually are. Webster’s medical dictionary defines a toxin as…. ‘A poisonous substance that is a specific product of the metabolic activities of a living organism and is usually very unstable, notably toxic when introduced into the tissues, and typically capable of inducing antibody formation’. On a typical day the body is exposed to many toxins − from the foods we eat (pre-packaged, pesticide residue), the beverages we drink (colours, flavours), the environment we walk, work and live in.

well equipped to deal with toxins. So why is all the extra help needed? There is a growing interest in the cumulative potential of the toxins we come into contact with daily. Combine this with the knowledge that as we age the detoxification process slows and stress levels, which can affect the way our detoxification organs function, can increase - it only makes sense that we should do what we can to support this vital ‘toxin removal’ process. Although allopathic medicine does acknowledge that environmental factors may be implicated in many illnesses, detoxification has traditionally been part of the alternative or complementary medicine practitioner’s tool-kit. There are however many

differing views on what a detox should be. The Naturopathic concept of detox is very different from the many topical or fasting options you may see. Rather than just taking two weeks out from your regular eating habits, the idea of detox should be focused on improving and maintaining health. A naturopathic detox programme is more about balance than exclusion. A highly qualified Naturopath is a specialist in guiding people through a healthy detoxification programme prescribed to the individual. We believe that, rather than a time of starvation or deprivation, undergoing a detox programme to get your glow should involve eating a wide range of foods over several regular meals per day - and enjoying it!

The aim is to provide the body with an increased amount of the vital nutrients it needs to perform its functions, restore and maintain homoeostasis. Many commercial detox programmes require participants to fast or to reduce food intake significantly. The idea behind this is to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;cleanseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the body by reducing the toxins consumed. However the body needs to be continually taking in a full spectrum of good quality nutrients to function. Eating balanced meals, taking in healthy oils, complex carbohydrates and proteins - often overlooked it is in fact crucial that patients take in good quality protein during this rest phase. The liver is the primary organ of detoxification. It is responsible for breaking down toxins and

rendering them able to be excreted. In order to function well the liver needs certain amino acids. The body cannot make these amino acids but must take them in each day through food. During a period of fasting or only eating lowprotein foods as in some fruit-based detox programmes, decrease in liver function by denying the liver these essential amino acids may occur, which leaves your body unable to remove the toxins from the body. Further problems can oc-cur, including the potential risk of muscle loss. Many detox programmes promise fast weight loss. Sadly, all too often this weight loss includes loss

of muscle tissue. Detox programmes should not be viewed as a quick fix weight loss programme. Many people comment that they find it difficult to keep energy up during a detox; maintaining muscle and eating good quality protein will help you to avoid this common problem. It is important to ensure that the correct fluid balance in the body is maintained. Cell hydration is an essential component to maintaining a healthy glow. Rectifying any cell hydration problems is key to maintaining water within the body for glowing skin and healthy ageing. BeingContent.com

Photograph CLAIRE HARRISON

Perfume

How natural are you willing to go?

IN A WORLD OF synthetic fragrances it’s important to remember that there are natural alternatives. Here’s where to buy them, what to look for and... how to go beyond patchouli. ‘Fragrance free’ is perhaps the ultimate fragrance. When laundry

products market themselves on such exotic odours as white orchids and passion flowers (but whose synthetic fragrances, designed to hang around for days, contain potent chemicals), you could be forgiven for wanting a break

from fragrances. We need more fresh air in our lives, not air ‘fresheners’. But there are always moments when everyone wants a mood enhancing scent buzz from a fragrance, and you’ll be reassured to hear that these can still be had from entirely natural or an even organic fragrances. After all, perfume has been used for centuries for a range of purposes - religious ceremonies, to mask odours... even as an aphrodisiac. There are four key questions to ask when shopping for a natural perfume: Where can I buy it? How ‘natural’ is it? Are the ingredients sustainable? Does it smell any good? In choosing to buy natural and organic, there are certain things you’ve got to accept. First, forget the department store and most of the high street: if you’re looking for a natural perfume you’ll need to search elsewhere, mostly online. Choice is limited but this is no bad thing. Shopping beyond the mainstream means you avoid being seduced by the latest celebrity-endorsed, oversexualised scent ad. It’s an easy trap to fall into up to 97 per cent of the

cost of producing a conventional perfume goes on marketing, packaging and advertising. The liquid in the bottle can represent as little as 3 per cent of the total cost of production. As ‘professeur de parfum’ and founder of the Haute Parfumerie at Harrods, Roja Dove laments, ‘I think most people don’t actually smell fragrances anymore. People are so influenced by marketing that people buy scents that they don’t really like.’ BOTTLED-UP NATURE For those used to mass market scents natural fragrance can smell a bit earthy and, well... natural. Hardly suprising considering they are produced with essential oils derived from flowers and leaves. It’s not all about reeking of patchouli or lavender though - thankfully things have moved on. ‘Natural fragrances are a little softer, a little more muted,’ says Sadie Chowen, a ‘trained nose’ who runs the Burren Pharmacy in Ireland. ‘Synthetics tend

to be stronger, sharper. around two thirds of modMainstream perfumes can ern fragrance is synthetialso use fragrances which cally derived and the reare very unusual, which maining fraction naturally don’t reflect reality. In cre- sourced (although some ating a natural perfume ‘prestige fine fragrance’ the palette is restricted.’ brands are up to 50 per The other perceived prob- cent natural, or even lem with natural and or- higher). These days the ganic perfumes is that the line between ‘natural’ and scent tends to wear off af- ‘synthetic’ is a fine one. ter a few hours. Perfumer There are three types Roja Dove says that with of synthetics: natural isoorganics, ‘you do not get lates (substances extractthe diffusion or the stay- ed from natural oils), semi ing power’. He admits synthetics (natural isolates some are ‘really very nice’ modified by a chemical but that ‘for the process) and majority of peosynthetics ‘NATURAL ple they will not fragrances (brand new give them what o d i f e r o us are a they expect’. It molecules little all depends on made in the SOFTER, a laboratory). your criteria for little more Synthetic frachoosing. muted.’ NATURAL VS grances aren’t SYNTHETIC automatically Up until the birth of mod- bad news. They can be ern perfumery in the late produced cheaply and 1880s, all perfumes were in large quantities commade from natural plant pared to naturals - it takes and animal sources. Then around 750 kilos of jasscientists discovered how mine petals to make 1 kilo to create synthetic aroma of jasmine oil. Synthetics chemicals. According to also don’t rely on expenthe Fragrance Foundation sive, seasonal, natural resources some of which, such as sandalwood, are

now regarded as a threatened species. Nor do they require animal derivatives such as musk, a dried secretion that is painfully obtained from musk deer, beaver, muskrat, civet cat, and otter genitals. Animal derived musk was once widely used as fixative but has largely been replaced by synthetic musk. The problem with conventional scents is you don’t know what’s in them. The complex mixtures of hundreds of synthetic chemicals contained in mainstream perfumes do not have to be listed on the label. Perfume has also long been known to be an environmental risk for asthma. Many fragrance ingredients can also cause allergic skin reactions headaches, or nausea. SAFETY CONCERNS The most talked about common ingredients of concern are synthetic musks and pthalates. Both these potentially hazardous man-made chemical groups have been found in many well known brands of perfumes (see this Greenpeace study). Synthetic musks are suspected hormone disrupters and some types (nitro musks) are carcinogenic. Traces of synthetic musks have shown up in breast milk and in umbilical cord blood. Phthalate exposure has been linked to male reproductive damage. The main phthalate which may be used in

personal care products in Europe is diethyl phthalate (DEP). Research suggests a link between exposure to DEP and DNA damage to human sperm. The Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association says that both synthetic musks and DEP are safe for use, citing the EC independent Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), and that all ingredients are under continuing safety review. Occasionally spraying yourself with conventional perfume is probably nothing to worry about. But if you want to know what’s in the bottle, go natural, preferably organic. Laura Sevier TheEcologist.org

Photograph CLAIRE HARRISON

Maria

Hatzistefanis

Founder of Rodial Skincare

IMAGINE A RANGE OF BEAUTY products custom designed to answer all your beauty needs. Whether it’s cellulite, body sculpting, tanning, radiant skin, dark spots, firming, tightening, any external problem you know of, it’s all there in a line of products that guarantee results. It’s the ‘cult’ beauty brand, Rodial, founded by former beauty editor Maria Hatzistefanis. Maria moved to New York to complete an MBA at Columbia Business School. After a short time in corporate finance, she relocated to London to develop her own skincare

Today, Rodial products have become the natural alternative for women who want to move away from drastic measures such as cosmetic surgery. The Rodial products deliver treatments to specific skin concerns for the face and body by combining nature with science. Guaranteed results include collagen produc‘I created a SKINCARE range tion, firming and tightenthat will DELIVER dermatolo- ing the skin so it looks and feels smoother, natural gist results using NATURAL SPF and powerful antioxiingredients. No appointment dants. As Maria clarifies, “I needed!’ created a skincare range that will deliver instant dermatologist results using natural brand. Maria drew on time-honoured tradiingredients. No appointment tions as well as her own expertise to proneeded!” duce a natural and non-invasive alternative to cosmetic surgery. Thus Rodial skincare HOW DID YOU SET UP YOUR was born in 1999, developing a reputation BUSINESS? For the first 6 for unparalleled efficacy and stunning remonths I did a lot of research; sults. I travelled all over the UK visitIn this age of chemical peels and cosing labs and factories to decide metic surgery, Rodial has captured nature’s which would be the best to depower by creating a range of super-effective velop my formulas. I interviewed skincare designed to keep your skin lookgraphic designers to develop ing young, firm and toned. The entire range our branding and visited packconsists of blissfully-textured, sensual prodaging factories in Europe to ucts which are effective at tackling some of find the best packaging for the beauty’s biggest challenges, from wrinkles range. Once I made these key to stretch marks to cellulite and extreme decisions, I worked very closely dryness. with them, giving them my brief, Having worked closely for two years with a top cosmetologist, Maria wanted to create a line of products that have naturally active formulations, which are a pleasure to use, with a little bit of her Greek heritage as well.

until the Rodial range was born! I then started meeting with retailers to present the range; Fenwicks of Bond Street was the first one to take the range onboard, followed by Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Space NK. WHAT IS DIFFERENT ABOUT RODIAL SKINCARE? There are two angles to Rodial skincare. The first one is that we develop prod‘We DEVELOP ucts to solve specific skin products to solve concerns such as wrinkles, SPECIFIC skin cellulite, stretch marks and concerns whilst dehydration. The other angle combining nature is that we combine nature and SCIENCE to and science, meaning that we produce products use the highest quality natural made from the ingredients that respect the highest QUALITY natural balance of the skin, ingredients‘ and at the same time we have a lot of our products clinically tested to prove their efficacy. What is great about Rodial products is that no matter what shape or size you are, you can benefit in some way from the products. WHAT’S YOUR USP THAT SETS YOU APART FROM OTHER PRODUCT RANGES? The energy of the brand that comes across in our packaging and product names. We are serious about solving skincare problems and delivering results, but we like being fun at the same time. WHICH WAS THE FIRST PRODUCT YOU CAME UP WITH, AND WHY? Tummy Tuck was the first product I created; I wanted a product that would work quickly and get results. After having two children, I found I had very little time to work-out and get back into shape and so I developed the Tummy Tuck gel

to help burn excess fat and help achieve a flat tummy, without spending hours in the gym. ARE RODIAL PRODUCTS CONSIDERED SLIMMING PRODUCTS OR MORE CONTOURING? IS THERE A DIFFERENCE? Each product is unique and offers different benefits. The Tummy Tuck is considered a slimming product, whilst the Boob Job works to plump and lift the bust, and firm and tone the skin around the chest area. The Bum Lift works to slim, lift and contour the thigh and buttocks area. Each product is very diverse. DO THEY WORK ON CELLULITE OF ONLY ON FATS? HOW ABOUT WATER RETENTION? Each product is different, and so they each tackle a multitude of body concerns. Body Sculpture and Bum Lift are designed to help reduce the appearance of cellulite, whilst Tummy Tuck is great at burning excess fat. We also have an amazing product, Skinny Beach Sticks, which help reduce bloating and water retention, making you appear slimmer and feel lighter. HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU APPLY THESE PRODUCTS? It is important that you use the products regularly to get maximum results. Most of our products require you to apply at least twice a day, to get the desired effect. IS THERE A PARTICULAR WAY IN WHICH THE PRODUCTS SHOULD BE APPLIED? As you apply each product you should take the time to gently massage in the productmassage is great for boosting skin circulation and will help break down fat under the skin. SOMETIMES AFTER WEIGHT-LOSS, THEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SAGGING SKIN. DO THESE PRODUCTS DEAL WITH THAT? IS THE ONLY REMEDY THEN SURGERY? Surgery is not the only answer.The main concept behind Rodial is that it offers natural alterna-

tives to surgery. For example, ucts, you can get dressed straight awayBody Sculpture is a great firming no staining! and toning product, and is ideal to HOW LONG DOES ONE HAVE TO USE use after weight loss; Boob Job is THE PRODUCTS TO SEE RESULTS? also great for firming and toning Boob Job offers an instant firming efsagging skin around the bust area. fect, but the plumping will take up to 8 HOW IMPORTANT IS IT TO YOU weeks to occur. Our products work like THAT YOU USE NATURAL IN‘courses’; you have to use them for a set GREDIENTS? It is important to steer clear of nasty in‘Each product is DIFFERENT gredients such as parabens and so they each tackle a and petroleum (Vaseline) deMULTITUDE of body concerns’ rived substances that all the cheap skincare is made of. However, if we find a latest high amount of time to get the best from them. tech ingredient that is not derived WOULD YOU CONSIDER BRANCHfrom nature, comes from good ING INTO HAIRCARE? I would if I found quality substances and does the an angle that made our haircare differjob, we will use it. ent. I only launch a product that I believe WHY HAS POMEGRANATE BEEN doesn’t already exist in the market; there CHOSEN AS ONE OF THE KEY has to be a story and a marketing angle INGREDIENTS IN YOUR PRODthat I get excited for first. UCTS? DO YOU SEE RODIAL EVER BRANDPomegranate has amazing antiING INTO MINERAL MAKE-UP? Rodial oxidant properties; it also helps has become a powerful global brand firm and tone the skin, and boosts and I would love to extend the range into collagen, leaving you with toned, make-up. plumped skin. DO THE PRODIF YOU COULD ONLY TAKE ONE PRODUCTS STAIN CLOTHES OR BED UCT WITH YOU TO A DESERT ISLAND, SHEETS? WHICH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? My No, when formulating the products desert island skincare product is the RoI wanted to ensure that the creams dial Glam Balm; I came up with the idea felt and smelt good and absorbed as I travel a lot for both business and well. After applying our body prodpleasure. Glam Balm is great to use as a flight mask, eye cream, after sun lotion and plumping balm - a wonder product for frequent travellers, and it weighs only 50ml so you can take it onboard! Photographs RODIAL

Photograph SCHWARZKOPF

Simon Ellis

Global Director of Schwarzkopf Professional

Simon Ellis about the idea behind Essential Looks ‘We take the key TRENDS directly from the teams working on the key shows and TRANSLATE these into both aspirational and real hair looks that we predict will be POPULAR on the high street during the forthcoming season’ WHAT IS THE CONCEPT OF ESSENTIAL LOOKS? Essential Looks identifies and delivers the key fashion trends for the coming season by working with Editorial Stylists who are responsible for the hair creations of the seasonal fashion collections presented at the Fashion Weeks in London, Milan and Paris. This is the USP of Essential Looks. We take the key trends directly from the teams working on the key shows and translate these into both aspirational and real hair looks that we predict will be popular on the high street during the forthcoming season. HOW DO HAIRDRESSERS TRANSFER THE COLLECTIONS INTO THEIR DAILY SALON LIFE? The key fashion trends that we present as part of each season’s Essential Looks collection are the base for stylists to then adapt. We actively encourage stylists to develop their own interpretations of Essential Looks. Hairdressers wish

for constant inspiration regarding hair trends in cut, color and styling. They pass this inspiration on to their clients in the salon and this leads to a high level of client loyalty. This is why Essential Looks has proven to be so popular since the launch in 1997. WHY HAS ESSENTIAL LOOKS PROVEN TO BE SO IMPORTANT FOR HAIRDRESSERS? Essential Looks truly supports the salon owner and their team by linking practical skills training directly to seasonal fashion trends. The biggest challenge for a salon-owner is to inspire a busy salon team and actively organize staff trainings after a full day of cutting and coloring clients. With Essential Looks we aim to provide our customers with a creative salon education package that can be used within the salon to train, inspire and motivate salon teams to fulfill the needs of their clients by offering the latest fashion inspired looks. Put simply - Essential Looks delivers the looks, styles and trends of tomorrow, to hairdressers today! WHAT IS YOUR VISION FOR THE FUTURE OF ESSENTIAL LOOKS AND SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL? Our industry is a dynamic and competitive global market place with a

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unique pulse, a world that combines that to succeed in our world we can the creative pulse of fashion with a never stand still - we must be a conpassion for hair. To create real impact stant source of inspiration and demand deliver lasting success we must onstrate real commitment and pas capture this unique pulse and celsion. Essential Looks is all about winebrate it. This will provide us with a ning! The concept is innovative and creative edge and a real point of difhas had a real impact in the market ference. place. Now, the constant challenge is We want to truly demonstrate that to ensure that Essential Looks remains Schwarzkopf Professional is an excita leader and not a follower. Each seaing, hairdresser-driven, global comson, the challenge is to deliver the pany, with innovative real trends and thereby and personal service for ‘Our industry is demonstrate to our hairsalons. By celebrating dressers and their salon a DYNAMIC and creativity and innovaclients that Schwarzcompetitive tion, we can deliver opkopf Professional is an global market timal offers to our hairauthority within our inplace with a dressers and their salon dustry when it comes to clients. Professional UNIQUE pulse, a fashion color, styles and Partner Services is our world that com- trends. bines the real point of difference. WHAT IS SO SPECIAL CREATIVE pulse ABOUT THE HAIRWe want to show that with a PASSION DRESSERS’ WORLD? we are more than just a name, that SchwarzHairdressers think in for hair’ kopf is desirable and we terms of experience, want to give our clients the chance to not in terms of products or categoexperience and live the Schwarzkopf ries. As a long term partner we need world. to demonstrate that we understand Our goal is not only to excite and fulfill our clients by delivering real, relevant existing client needs but also to inspire and lasting products and services to and win new customers by bringing support them in their daily work – by “A Passion for Hair” to life. Essential offering what our hairdressers and Looks is our global image driver. It is their clients really want and not what exciting because it is fashion forward we think they want! and shows real hair – it is our link to This is proof of our “Partnership Apfashion. It clearly demonstrates our proach” with our hairdressers and his “Passion for Hair”, and provides our clients. To excite our partners, we product brands with a direct emomust communicate using the right tional link to seasonal trends and the imagery, the right emotional language world of fashion. and deliver tools and services that WHAT DO YOU PERSONALLY LIKE they can really work with, each and BEST ABOUT THE CREATION OF every day. THE COLLECTIONS? I love the fact Schwarzkopf.com

Schwarzkopf Essential Looks presents its state-of-the-art hairstyling collection to keep your fashion on trend this season. Think glamour, romance, cuttingedge and sexy; this season’s hairstyles shout statement. They’re something you can’t ignore.

40‘S ROMANCE The mid-20th century was an era of elegance and femininity, glamour and romance. The post-war, European women expressed their beauty through graceful tailoring and emphasised waists in uniform-like tweed suits, enhancing their look with wavy, blown-out and untamed curls. These women are the inspiration of today’s modern take on the 40’s romance trend. Vibrant yet romantic colours accentuating hairstyles of asymmetric shape, creating movement and volume for a luxury finish; this is a romance you won’t want to part with.

Essential Looks

THE DARK AMAZONS Designed to express post apocalypse classics like Mad Max and Blade Runner, the dark amazons trend sees figure-hugging leather from head to toe, cigarillo-thin stilettos and knicker-skimming boots accompanied by highly defined cuts and dynamic shapes to present graduated texture with a sexy edge. Dominant, dark and precision cut hairstyles are complimented by a contrasting colour palette of blonde, black and deep purple shades. Savage and fierce, this trend is not to be taken lightly. Schwarzkopf.com Photographs SCHWARZKOPF

A Healthy Lifestyle

CLEANSING REGULARLY, applying the right products and developing better skin habits will help keep your complexion clear, but if you are interested in longer lasting results, you need to target skin from both the outside and the inside. Eating the right foods, exercising consistently and making time for daily stress relief are a few tools that not only will help your skin, but also will improve your health and the overall quality of your life. Understanding how our lifestyle choices affect the health and appearance of our skin is paramount. NUTRITION Depending on your particular state of health, your nutritional needs may vary. However, certain basic and simple concepts have been proven by the scientific community to have great benefits on the health of your body as well as your skin. It just makes sense that what is good for your body is also good for your skin. Following these general guide lines are recommended for healthy skin, in addition, they have been proven to reduce risk of heart disease, cancer, stroke, osteoporosis, high blood pressure and diabetes. WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK Eat plenty

of various fruits and vegetables. Healthy amounts of: whole grains like high fiber cereal, whole-wheat bread and brown rice. Moderate amounts of: nuts, seeds and beans, Omega 3 from fish and botanical sources. Drinking plenty of water will help your cells and tissues stay hydrated and healthy. What to avoid or limit: Saturated fats from animal sources, butter, cheese, trans fats such as fat found in processed foods and fried items, simple sweets like candy, excessive salt and alcoholic beverages. LIFESTYLE Regular Exercise: Health experts say regular exercise can play a big role in how young and healthy your skin looks and feels. Exercise has amazing benefits for the entire body, and skin, being the largest organ in the body, reaps all of these benefits. It can reduce acne breakouts as well as fight the signs of aging. Regular exercise increases circulation and delivers nutrients to skin cells, and eliminates potentially damaging toxins. As we age, our collagen-producing cells (fibroblasts) decrease in number and in function, leads to less firm, dry and wrinkled skin. With exercise, cells become infused with oxygen and other

Photographs STEPHEN EASTWOOD

nutrients that create ideal conditions for collagen production. Furthermore, with regular exercise, your entire body, including the muscles in your face, tends to relax, causing the anger expression lines and crowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feet to soften. Keep in mind, hydrating your body before and after exercise will encourage blood flow and toxin elimination. Also, make sure to wash your skin after sweating to remove the excreted toxins. STRESS REDUCTION Unfortunately, stress has become a regular part of our everyday lives. Whether it is at work, at home, or in traffic, stress can slowly dominate our lives if we remain unaware. . Eventually, this can damage our body, mind and emotions. Our skin is also profoundly affected by stress. The accumulation of stress impacts our immune system and eventually leads to increased free radicals, which have a huge hand in premature aging.A person under stress is also more prone to break outs. Emotional trauma can also cause you to frown and pout, which eventually become permanent lines and wrinkles. Today, there are many resources available to help us relax and keep stress at bay.

Relaxation techniques such as meditation, yoga, listening to soothing music and spending time with friends can help us keep things in perspective and reduce stress. Thousands of empowering and inspirational books are also available as an additional resource. Actively reducing stress and practicing relaxation, will improve the quality of our lives, as well as our skin. SLEEP Sleep is a time when the body rests, replenishes, and regenerates. Thirty-three percent of our sleep occurs in the second stage , when hormone levels peak and cellular repair takes place. Damage could contribute to premature aging is repaired during this time. All stages of sleep are beneficial for dissolving free radicals, which also contribute to premature aging and other health conditions. Most adults need seven to eight hours of sleep at night. Vivoderm.com

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Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

Anti-Ageing 67 ALONGSIDE TAKING CARE OF OUR bodies from the inside there are a few tricks we can use from the natural skincare world to keep our skin looking perky. UK brand Nude Skincare was one of the first brands to include naturally derived peptides in their skincare range. As a brand leader in the field of natural skincare we asked a member of their team, Annemarie Harris, to fill us in on the natural versus synthetic peptides debate. THE PEPTIDE STORY Present in every living cell and forming an integral part in a variety of biochemical activities, peptides play a crucial role in the physiological and biochemical functions of life. Peptides appear in the body as enzymes, hormones, antibio-

tics, receptors etc. Peptides are chains of up to 50 amino acids, any more amino acids and they become proteins. Within the skin peptides form a wide variety of structural and hormonal functions and also act as chemical triggers. Milk is a rich source of peptides. Normal drinking milk contains a group of molecules called cytokines. Cytokines include a diverse family of peptides, which calm inflammation, regulate the immune system, repair tissue and stimulate the growth of collagen and other connective tissues, leading to the restructuring of the skin. As the skin ages the surface of the skin becomes dryer, moisture and fat levels decrease and the epidermis as well as the underlying dermis become thinner.

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

The amount of connective tissues within the skin diminishes and loses structure along with a continued decrease in the capacity of the skin to bind water. The elastic fibres break down resulting in a lack of tissue tension. All of these factors result in skin ageing and an increase in wrinkles and fine lines. NATURAL PEPTIDES Milk is known as a nearly complete food due to the large number of peptides, proteins and amino acids it contains. Due to the cell density of milk it functions as a natural environment for cells and their building blocks. It also contains a number of immunological cell types which have the ability to stimulate an immune response such as calming inflammation. The beauty of using naturally sourced peptides is that there are a number of different cytokines all of which carry

out a slightly different role within the skin, some triggering defensive functions to protect the skin, others stimulating the production of collagen and tissue-support functions. The mixture of cytokines and other molecules work together, triggering intricate systems of immune defence and tissue regeneration. Tests carried out by Peterson, Reinhold and Tyborczyk demonstrated the intricate responses of the skin to a natural milk complex, resulting in a clear increase in skin firmness, elasticity, thickness and a clear reduction in the depth of wrinkles. Milk is renowned for its life sustaining ability due to its reputation as a nearly complete food, but its use in cosmetics is very new and gaining esteem quickly, because of their specific properties. The combined affects of the multiple peptides on the epidermis and dermis has a profound effect on the appearance, texture and resilience of the skin. To stimulate the production of collagen within the skin has to be one of the most effective corrective and protective tools in the fight against premature ageing of the skin.

SYNTHETIC PEPTIDES Peptides are a common anti-ageing ingredient in many performance skincare brands, but sadly they are often synthetic. This can come in 2 forms, the chains of amino acids can be completely synthetically generated in a lab, or they can be isolated from a natural source by splitting up the peptide chains. Either way, these synthetic molecules are missing the magic that comes from a naturally bound combination of peptides with all the biological chemical triggers and nutrients it comes with. When an ingredient is created synthetically it is not easily recognised by the skin. It is likely to be a cheaper and faster to produce, but the skin will not respond in the same way as it would to a natural ingredient. Synthetic molecules are often different shapes to their natural versions and like trying to use the wrong key to open a lock, they will not stimulate the same responses in the skin. Splitting natural peptides to create an isolate (a pentapeptide for example) involves the use of synthetic chemicals and processes which are likely to remain attached and end up in your skincare products. These may potentially be irritating and harmful to the skin. BeingContent.com

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

‘Weleda has come up with an extremely strict DEFINITION of natural: “No more than a one step chemical change from the NATURAL SOURCE.” Weleda and the biodynamic Demeter brands offer products that are 100 PERCENT natural with no synthetic ingredients, non-natural preseservatives, artificial fragrances or colourants.’

Photography CLAIRE HARRISON

Can I Trust My ‘Natural ’ or

‘Organic’ Body Cream?

WHAT DOES IT TAKE FOR a company producing skincare or haircare products to be truly ‘natural’ or ‘organic’? Laura Sevier sorts fact from fiction in the health and beauty stakes. We all know that many of the so-called ‘natural’ shampoos, creams and shower gels on supermarket or chemist shelves are anything but natural. You know the ones I’m talking about - those exotic, tasty sounding products (a yoghurt and honey ‘shower smoothie’ - mmm!) with their pictures of coconut or grapefruit explosions on the label. At best, the fruity names and images brighten up a dull container; at worst they are hugely misleading. It comes as no surprise that a 2009 report on natural personal care by Kline & Company, a consulting and research firm, which looked at ‘natural’ brands worldwide, found that an

overwhelming majority are merely ‘natural-inspired’ and mostly made up of synthetics. Astonishingly, it’s perfectly legal to apply the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ to cosmetics even if only a tiny percentage of the total ingredients are from natural or organic sources. In other words, they can be used purely for marketing purposes. Hopefully the Cosmos standard, the result of a sixyear consultation between five major national certification bodies to create a Europe-wide standard for organic and natural beauty and health products, will lead to greater truthfulness in marketing claims. But there’s a simpler question to be asked here: just how hard is it for a cream, lotion or gel to be truly natural or organic? I talked to three brands with exceptionally high standards to find out more.

ORGANIC PURISTS Peter Kindersley, many cases over 90 per cent). Weleda owner of Neal’s Yard Remedies, deand the biodynamic Demeter brands scribes his company as ‘the purists offer products that are 100 per cent of the organic movement’. Although natural with no synthetic ingredients, Neals Yard has always sought to non-natural preseservatives, artificial make natural products, one of the first fragrances or colourants. things Kindersley did when he bought But calculating the percentage of the brand in 2005 was to ‘get them to natural ingredients is not always become much more organic’. Several straightforward. Susan Curtis, natural years ago all of the essential oils used health director of Neal’s Yard says, ‘it in the products were converted to ordepends on what you call natural. For ganic, which was then followed by the instance, the detergents we use for base oils. the shampoos are plant-derived. But As a result, Neal’s Yard now has the they are not natural - they are synthelargest certified organic range in the sised.’ She estimates the majority of UK (around 218 prodtheir products (bar the ucts). But Kindersshampoos) are around ‘NATURAL ley still admits: ‘there 95 per cent natural. substances are are chemicals in our ‘Some companies say products that we pretheir product is more substances of fer were not there. It’s natural than we would BOTANIC, inora constant process of choose to say.’ ganic mineral, inventing new prod- or animal origin And therein lies the ucts with new properrub. Just what is the which are ties and reformulating definition of ‘natural’? processed using existing products to Defining ‘organic’ is only PHYSICAL make them more orrelatively easy: for a means’ ganic.’ Unfortunately bodycare product cersome plants, such as tified by the Soil Assowitch hazel, are difficult to get hold ciation, to state it is ‘made with organof organically. And in cases where a ic ingredients’, a minimum of 70 per substance such as salt is used (which cent of agricultural ingredients must can’t be certified as organic) certificabe from organic sources. To claim it is tion is impossible. ‘Some things we organic, (eg ‘organic body butter’) the are truly stuck on,’ Kindersley says. percentage must be higher - at least 95 per cent. HOW NATURAL IS ‘NATURAL’? Many A simple definition of ‘natural’ is: any natural brands show the percentage plant or animal extract, or any rock or of natural ingredients on the label or mineral obtained from the earth. But website. Green People says the averthen things get murky. Are ‘nature age percentage in its products is 99.6 identical’ ingredients (lab-synthesised per cent (with 70 per cent of ingrediexact copies of natural substances) ents from organic sources, and in still natural? And what about process-

ed natural ingredients (such as tinctures and emulsifiers)? All natural brands have their own criteria. Many aim to make a product as natural as possible but will need to use some non-natural substances, such as preservatives. At the lower end of the scale there are products marketed as natural that may be 98 per cent synthetic but two per cent derived from natural or even ‘nature identical’ ingredients. STRICTLY NATURAL ‘At the end of the day in the world of cosmetics the word ‘natural’ tells the consumer nothing,’ says Loraine Murry, Weleda’s natural beauty consultant. ‘What exactly is natural? At one extreme we have an apple from a tree and at the other an apple flavouring, a manmade copy of active substances in the apple. But what about the myriad of possibilities between the two? Below is a summary of one working definition of ‘natural’ from the accreditation scheme NaTrue, a not for profit independent body and charitable trust who ‘aim to safeguard the highest possible standards for natural cosmetics and their ingredients’. Natural substances are substances of botanic, inorganic mineral, or animal origin (except for dead vertebrates) which are processed using only physical means. Derived natural substances are produced from the substances above using only very specific defined chemical processes. Nature-identical - NaTrue gives a short list of such substances which may only be used when natural substances cannot be recovered from nature using reason able

technical effort. These include preservatives, inorganic pigments and minerals specifically approved for use in natural cosmetics. Weleda has come up with an extremely strict definition of natural: ‘No more than a one step chemical change from the natural source’. Loraine Murry tells me all the key ingredients in Weleda products - plant extracts, oils and essential oils - are 100 per cent within this definition and that they are committed to this goal for their range. Most other ingredients that go into their gel, paste or cream also fit into that. She admits the definition is aspirational, particularly at the level of a finished product. ‘If you made a cream with Weleda’s ideal definition you’d be using substances like pure beeswax. This makes richer, greasier creams that are fine if you want body care but for facial skincare people expect more sophisticated products. It’s a question of making the products truly acceptable to a wider category of the public.’ Weleda is keen to distinguish itself from companies with lower standards. The brand’s products were formerly certified with the natural cosmetic accreditation body BDIH, but Weleda wanted a logo that better reflected its own standards with much stricter controls on what is allowed in ‘natural’ products. Interestingly, although NaTrue allows nature identical ingredients within its criteria, Weleda don’t. ‘Weleda believes that some of the natural characteristics or key properties of the ingredient may be lost, and the result would not be so effective as genuinely natural substances,’ says Murry.

PRESERVATIVES One of the trickiest areas for a natural brand are preservatives. ‘The product has to be safe, to stop it going off. It’s about extending shelf life. Without these you’d need to keep them in the fridge,’ says Susan Curtis of Neal’s Yard. Neal’s Yard either use natural ingredients with preservative properties, such as rose or propolis extract, or small amounts of preservatives ‘selected to be safe for use and non-persistent in the environment’. The trademark blue glass bottles also help protect the product so as to minimise preservatives - the glass cuts down 97 per cent of UV light. Green People has a similar stance on this, using a range of plant extracts in combination with tiny amounts of food-grade preservatives. Where a stronger preservative is necessary the company uses phenoxyethanol, a synthetic. According to Ian Taylor, Green People’s information and research manager, phenoxyethanol has has ‘an excellent safety profile, does not cause skin irritation or sensitivities and biodegrades rapidly’. It is on the list of permitted preservatives for use in cosmetics certified as organic by the Soil Association. In its haircare products, Weleda uses natural preservatives made from grapefruit seeds certified by Ecocert. A couple of the ingredients used also have valuable preservative properties such as alcohol (primarily used as an extractive agent). Likewise, essential oils help preserve some formulations. ‘It’s down to expertise of formulation and packaging,’ says Murry.

COST Do ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ products have to be more expensive? ‘The truth is that all the ingredients cost more. It’s really cheap to try and synthesise ingredients,’ says Peter Kindersley. Ian Taylor agrees. ‘The cost of organic plant oils such as hemp and rosehip are typically 20 times more expensive than mineral oils and denatured non-organic plant oils, and the same applies to organic essential oils when compared to the cost of synthetic fragrance blends.’ Sourcing sustainably can come at a price too. Take palm oil. According to Taylor, ‘emulsifiers made from RSPO certified palm oil and approved for use in certified organic cosmetics are considerably more expensive than synthetic alternatives or those made from cheaper grades of Palm Oil.’ Alongside these bids to be more natural and organic there are, of course, important ethical considerations when sourcing ingredients. Green People, Weleda and Neal’s Yard all have fairly traded and/or Fairtrade global partnerships with many of their producers. Although these truly natural or organic products might cost that little bit extra, knowing what’s in them and the effort that’s gone into sourcing quality ingredients means they’re worth it. Or rather, you’re worth it. Laura Sevier TheEcologist.org

Spa

Treatments CLARINS FRUIT & SALT SCRUB TREATMENT 40 MINUTES This innovative three-in-one exfoliation treatment uniquely combines a mixture of pure sea salt crystals from the South of France, lemon and pineapple fruit enzymes and dried flowers chosen for their skin refining properties. When mixed with Clarins 100% pure plant body oils, the result is a luxurious and warming experience that leaves skin feeling like new. Choose from: Relaxing essential oils of geranium and chamomile and a handful of lavender flowers or Revitalizing Rosemary and rosewood essential oils and safflowers.

BUMS & TUMS 45 MINUTES Lifts and firms the bum, tones and tightens the tum and slims and smoothes the thighs. Specially designed to target the lower half of the body, this treatment includes cocooning the body in warm, mineral-rich contouring clay before bandaging the body from waist down. BOOB JOB 30 MINUTES Get your red carpet cleavage...naturally. This rejuvenating treatment plumps up, firms and lifts the bust area while bringing a softness and radiance to the dĂŠcolletĂŠ area where skin can look devitalised, dehydrated and sun exposed.

NAILS INC. 3 WEEK MANICURE ON HANDS & FEET nails inc’s bestselling manicure. This revolutionary treatment gives you instantly dry, non-chip nails for up to 3 weeks! The manicure involves applying a layer of gel over your natural nails. Available in a variety of gorgeous shades, you will remain chip free and glossy for weeks – we guarantee you will be hooked!

DECLEOR ‘SUNRISE’ AROMATHERAPY SELF-TANNING TREATMENT This incredible treatment has a very different approach to that of normal pre-sun treatment, as Decléor understand that clients deserve more than just a nice colour. The treatment prepares the skin for sun exposure, boosting cells natural defence system to give you an even and deep tan. The treatment includes exfoliation and facial massage using the unique Decléor Aromessences™ tailored to your individual skin type. It will also nourish, hydrate and strengthen the skin, leaving it silky and satin smooth. The final stage of the treatment is the application of the self-tan which develops over 4-6 hours leaving you with a healthy looking glow. Treatment time 1 hour £25 booking fee is redeemable against the purchase of any two Decléor products on the day of your treatment.

EXTREME MAKEOVER 90 MINUTES Forget plastic surgery. Try this for a complete body overhaul combining a slimming, detoxing and toning body treatment with the brightening and instant firming effects of a Rodial facial. This comprehensive treatment works simultaneously on reducing cellulite, stretch marks and unwanted fatty deposits, plumping up the bust area, and lifting the face for an all-over more youthful and glamorous look.

Photographs CLAIRE HARRISON

Beauty Essentials Photograph MakeUpSavvy.co.uk

1. Suki Colour Tinted Active Moisturiser £26.10 2. Lavera Natural Liquid Foundation £11.90 3. Bare Escentuals Full Coverage Kabuki Brush £24.00 4. Nvey Eco Certified Organic Compact Bronzer £25.50 5. Jurlique Blemish Cream £19.50

Images LoveLula.com Photographs CLAIRE HARRISON

Face

Lips 80

1. Lavera Beautiful Lips Natural Lipstick in Red Berry Charm £10.90 2. Elysambre Natural Lipstick £11.29 3. Bare Escentuals Natural Lip Colour in Bellini £14.00 4. Green People Eco Lipstick in Cherry £11.25 5. Bare Escentuals Bare Minerals Natural Lip Gloss in Chiffon £13.00

Images LoveLula.com Photographs CLAIRE HARRISON

Eyes

Images LoveLula.com Photographs CLAIRE HARRISON

1. Green People Eco Eye Collection £23.50 2. Lavera Beautiful Mineral Eyeshadow £9.50 3. Elysambre Eye Shadow £9.29 4. Bare Escentuals Eye Defining Brush £14.50 5. Honeybee Cosmetics Powder Colours Stackable Mineral Eye Colour £8.15

Photograph NOEMIE GOUDAL

Body

1. Peachykeen Organics Overnight Hand Soother £8.50 2. Peachykeen Organics Body Polish £22.25 3. Peachykeen Nourishing Body Oil £22.00

Photograph NOEMIE GOUDAL

A super-rich hand treatment best applied last thing at night so that your hands absorb the oils while you sleep. Use under white cotton gloves for an extra intensive treatment. Great for dry or chapped skin, just a small dab is enough to soften and soothe.

Want skin like a peach? Then you need an exfoliator to gently polish your skin. Rub in a handful before showering and your skin will be left silky smooth and smelling gorgeous. Scented like Peachykeenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweet body oil, it suggests warm, aromatic nights somewhere exotic.

Try this light oil as a change from body lotion. Unlike petroleum-based oils it soaks into your skin making it soft and smooth without an oily residue. Rosehip and borage oil make it extra nourishing.

Photograph NOEMIE GOUDAL

Sun Protection

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

GET THE LOWDOWN on Sun Protection, Photo-aging, UVB AND UVA Rays along with tips on natural sun protection products and ingredients to watch out for. SUN PROTECTION AND PHOTO AGING “Photoaging” is the term used to describe the damage that is done to the skin from prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV radiation The amount of photo aging that develops depends on different factors such as a person’s skin color and their history of long-term or intense sun exposure. Studies have shown that repeated ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen and impairs the synthesis of new collagen. The sun also attacks our

elastin causing the skin to become loose, wrinkled, and leathery. ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION penetrates the layers of the skin. Both UVA and UVB rays cause damage leading to wrinkles, lower immunity against infection, aging skin disorders, and cancer. However, they appear to damage cells in different ways. UVB rays are the main cause of sunburns, and primarily affects the outer skin layers. UVB is most intense at midday when sunlight is brightest. Slightly over 70% of the yearly UVB dose is received during the summer. Only 28% is received during the remainder of the year. UVA rays penetrate more

deeply and efficiently. he intensity of UVA rays is less dependent on the time of day and season of the year than UVB rays. For example, you receive only about half of your yearly UVA dose during the summer months, with the balance spread over the rest of the year. Almost all dermatologists and doctors agree, sun protection products should be worn year round. It is important to apply sunscreen diligently during the summer months as it is most intense at this time. But just because you’re a mountain dweller, don’t think you can avoid the sun’s rays there either. UV rays are almost twice as harsh at higher altitudes.

skin care products available today. Zinc may leave ‘Always look a slight ‘white-cast’ on for a your skin, but considering sunscreen the alternative chemicalproduct that laden, inflammatory or alis duallergy-inducing options for spectrum, sun protection today, zinc meaning it is an excellent choice for blocks both sensitive skin. Scientists are currently working on UVA and UVB a “micro-fine” version of rays.’ zinc to eliminate this effect without changing the itself. Always look for a power of the sunscreen sunscreen product that is dual-spectrum, meaning it blocks both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays are the rays that cause wrinkles and skin aging, while UVB rays produce tans and burns. Applying sunscreen to not only the face but body is important. Sunscreen should be applied daily and even multiple times during the day depending on your outdoor activities. Sun protections no lower than SPF 30 should be applied to the face and body. Many may also be unaware they can EAT for sun protection! Natural antioxidants from fresh berries, green tea, spirulina and many other foods act as natural barriers to the harmful effects of the sun. Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

Combined with the reflective snow surface, high altitude sun can damage skin at a surprisingly fast rate and cause just as much damage as sun burns on the beach. If you are looking for the best all around protection against UV rays, Zinc Oxide is your best choice. Zinc has a superior ability to protect your skin from UVA radiation. So, it is the natural, organic star of the

Vivoderm.com

Natural Tanning

Achieve a sun-kissed glow with these natural self-tanning tips.

SUMMER IS WELL AND TRULY here and it is time to brush off the office dust and bare some skin. Whether it be on a break at the beach, an afternoon in the park or a night out on the town, everyone likes a little healthy colour. But as with everything, it is about finding the right balance. Getting a good dose of vitamin D can have health benefits beyond the summer months. But it is important to be aware of the detrimental and undesirable effects UV rays can have on your skin. Protection by applying a quality natural sunscreen when outdoors is essential. FIRM Daily dry body brushing every morning and use of Birch Cellulite Oil will improve skin tone and keep cellulite at bay. Massage Weleda Birch Cellulite Oil into slightly damp skin using firm circular movements. Use twice a day for the first 4 weeks of use, than once a day for continued use. SMOOTH Not only will smooth hair-

free skin leave your legs feeling sleek and slender, it will aid in the smooth application of tanning products.

>> TIP: Make sure you INVEST in a sharp razor and a good NATURAL shave cream to give a CLEAN, close shave. SCRUB Exfoliating will eliminate any rough, uneven areas, leaving your skin feeling velvety. It will give a smooth base for an even application of selftanning lotion or bronzer and allow for a longer lasting colour. It is also a good idea to use an exfoliant to remove any residual tan 4 - 7 days after application. BANISH BUMPS Regardless of your choice of hair removal, the occasional bump and ingrown hair is almost unavoidable. Regular use of flawless hea-

Photographs RODIAL

ling gel will aid in minimizing ingrown hairs and even out any bumps.

SELF TAN Start by applying a small amount of natural selftanning lotion to one body part at a time, ensuring an even coverage. If you require a darker colour you may apply another layer once the first layer is dry. Tip: To avoid getting those not so subtle dark palms, try wearing surgical gloves or apply a small amount of natural hand cream before applying the colour. Only apply a thin layer to knees, elbows, feet, ankles, wrists and neck, and avoid hairline, eyebrows and nails. Wash hands well, focusing on the area between fingers and the base of palms. Once dried, apply a pea sized amount of product to the back of the hand and rub together. This will help to avoid the white glove look! Wait until the product has completely absorbed and dried before redressing. Leave to develop overnight or wait at least 6- 8 hours before showering.

>> TIP: Daily MOISTURISING ensures a longer LASTING COLOUR. MOISTURISE Daily moisturising and nourishing not only helps to keep the skin soft and supple, it ensures a longer lasting colour and even fading, preventing cracking. PROTECT It is important to protect the skin by applying a good quality natural sunscreen when outdoors. This will aid in preventing the unwanted effects caused by the suns radiation, such as premature aging, pigmentation, sunburn and skin cancers. BeingContent.com

WHAT SORT OF TAN FEELS MODERN TO YOU RIGHT NOW, AND WHAT SORT OF TAN FEELS DATED TO YOU? I think a tan that is subtle and natural looking is very modern right now. I think that bright orange tans look completely unnatural and are really dated. I think women have moved away from ‘tango tans’ and want something that is more subtle, as though you have just stepped off a plane having been somewhere fabulous and tropical. WHAT’S RESPONSIBLE FOR THE SHIFT? WHY HAS THE PREFERENCE CHANGED? I think our perception of beauty has changed; there was a time when having a fake tan, nails and hair was considered attractive, but I think women nowadays prefer to embrace their own natural beauty as opposed to masking it. ARE WOMEN RELYING MORE ON FACE MAKEUP TO TAN THEIR FACES AS OPPOSED TO FAKE-BAKING, SPRAYTANNING, AND LYING OUT IN THE SUN? Yes I think so; bronzers are so easy to apply and they give you an instant boost of bronze, plus it is a

Healthy Tanning with Maria Hatzistefanis much safer option than baking yourself in the sun. Sun damage can really age you and so bronzers are a great and safe way of achieving a nice healthy glow. HOW DO YOU USE TANNING PRODUCTS IN A WAY THAT DOESN’T LOOK OVERDONE AND DATED? It is important to pick the right colour for your skin tone; you want it to look as natural as possible. Application is also very important; you want it to look even and smooth so I would reco-

mmend that you always exfoliate before fake tanning. HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR TAN IN CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOU’RE NOT OVERDOING IT? It is always great to have an honest friens who can tell you if you have gone overboard! It is also a good idea to look at pictures of yourself after you have been on holiday, as this is the natural sort of colour that you will want to replicate when you are fake tanning. Photograph RODIAL

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

Ask the Experts I WANT TO DO A DETOX BUT I KEEP PUTTING IT OFF AS I HAVE A BUSY SOCIAL LIFE AND CANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T FIT IT AROUND MY SCHEDULE. DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS? Rather than fitting your life around the detox, its better to fit the detox around your

life. A detox is such a beneficial treatment that putting it off is not good. You will need to make some changes but these are generally to do with eating better and taking care of yourself.

I SUFFERED ACNE AS A TEENAGER AND NOW HAVE ACNE SCARRING. IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO? Clinical studies at the University of Santiago in Chile show that Rose Hip Oil when used twice a day on all scars even old ones can reduce scars and heal the skin within 4 months. Our Virgin Rose Hip Oil is cold pressed and organic and comes straight from Chile. These should be taken with Our homeopathic mixture for Scar tissue Silica, Thios, Graphites, Self Heal 6c should also be taken twice a day along with Skin Radiance Capsules which contain

Photograph SOLVEIG SELJ

MY HAIR HAS RECENTLY BECOME WEAK AND STARTED FALLING OUT. I AM WORRIED AS IT HAS NEVER HAPPENED TO ME BEFORE. WHAT SHOULD I DO? Hair loss in both men and women can be temporary or permanent. For temporary hair loss there are many underlying causes such as stress, hair styling (pony tails, weaves etc), harsh chemicals, lack of nutrients, hormonal changes and scalp infections can all contribute. Start with a really good nutrient rich in amino acids, the building blocks of keratin. The herb horsetail is rich in silica another important building block of hair. Phytonutrients contain both horsetail and super green foods containing all the amino acids needed. Rosemary and Arnica are both known to promote circulation and strengthen hair follicles. Massage our Hair Serum every night onto the scalp and wash off in the morning with a gentle shampoo such as Jasmine High Gloss Shampoo. The herb Saw Palmetto is very useful in androgenic male pattern baldness.

glucosamine and goji extract to help increase the production of Hyaluronic acid in the skin helping it repair. I HAVE OILY SKIN. IS CARROT BUTTER STILL SUITABLE FOR ME? Oil is the best cleanser for oily skin. As soon as Carrot Butter Melts in your hand it liquefies and massaged on oily skin it removes all the dirt and grime mixed with the oil. When you remove it with your muslin soaked in hand hot water, all the oil is removed leaving the skin radiant and will help prevent black heads. TheOrganicPharmacy.com