San Antonio Current — June 14, 2023

Page 1

Meet the QUEENS OF SWEET

THESE MULTI-FACETED SAN ANTONIO PASTRY CHEFS ARE RAISING THE PROFILE OF THE LOCAL FOOD SCENE

JUNE 14 - 27, 2023
FEATURING
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in this issue

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35 Feature

Meet the Queens of Sweet

These multi-faceted San Antonio pastry chefs are raising the profile of the local food scene

09 News

The Opener News in Brief

Bad Takes

Texas lawmakers are willing to imperil the planet to own “woke” renewables

District 1 Upset

Mario Bravo’s loss to newcomer Sukh Kaur a sign he failed to deliver for constituents, analyst says

Despite historic parks funding, Texas Lege failed to protect environment during session, according to new report 17 Calendar Calendar Picks

25 Arts

Punk With a Pen

San Antonio comic artist Mitch Clem compiles his autobiographical work in new collection MyStupidLife

No Narrative

Once known for figural works, artist James Cobb’s latest show has him creating mini-universes

33 Screens

Symbol of Hope

Sasha Calle talks about being the first Latina to play Supergirl in forthcoming film The Flash

35 Food

Alessia Benavides

Moving from educator to bonbon expert

Elise Russ

Making familiar desserts that lay just outside the comfort zone

Jenn Riesman

Proving the cost of pastry is more than its ingredients

Grecia Ramos

Charting a path beyond the barbecue business

Burger Boom

San Antonio Burger Week is back June 16-25, and it once again benefits the SA Food Bank

Hot Dish

49 Music

20 Years On Sparta’s Jim Ward opens up about the band and his life ahead of WiretapScars anniversary tour

Like a Man Possessed

Long-running San Antonio punk band Pavel Demon and the Revenant drops new release

Critics’ Picks

On the Cover: The four San Antonio pastry chefs at the heart of this week’s feature story posed for our cover.

Photo: Jaime Monzon. Design: Samantha Serna.

Issue 23-12 /// June 14 – 27, 2023
Jaime Monzon
JUNE 14 27, 2023
the QUEENS OF SWEET THESE MULTI-FACETED SAN ANTONIO PASTRY CHEFS ARE RAISING THE PROFILE OF THE LOCAL FOOD SCENE FEATURING
Meet
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sacurrent.com | June 14 – 27, 2023 | CURRENT 7
8 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com BRIE LARSON july 7-8 Captain Marvel fast X Avengers: Endgame HAILEE STEINFELD july 8-9 Hawkeye Bumblebee spider-Man: Across the spider-verse KIT HARINGTON july 7-8 GAME OF THRONES ETERNALS KATEE SACKHOFF july 9 THE MANDALORIAN BATTLESTAR GALACTICA ELIZABETH OLSEN july 7-8 WandaVision THE AVENGERS FRANCHISE ANDREW GARFIELD july 8-9 THE AMAZING SPIDER-MAN SPIDER-MAN: NO WAY HOME EMILIA CLARKE july 7-8 GAME OF THRONES SOLO: A STAR WARS STORY SECRET INVASION TICKETS NOW ON SALE: WWW.PMXEVENTS.COM JULY 7-8-9 FRI SAT SUN FREEMAN EXPO HALLS • SAN ANTONIO DAILY CONCERTS • SUPERHERO CAR SHOW • COMIC ARTISTS • CELEBRITY PANELS • FREE PLAY ARCADE • FREE KIDS ADMISSION (14 & Under) & MANY MORE STARS! PLUS:

That Rocks/That Sucks

HThe San Antonio area’s wait for the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Texas will stretch into 2024. Last week, Houston’s Benchawan Jabthong Painter took home the coveted prize. The San Antonio area had two finalists, John Russ of Clementine along with Ernest Servantes and David Kirkland of Seguin’s Burnt Bean Co. No Alamo City chef has won Best Chef: Texas, first awarded in 2019.

The Bexar County Sheriff’s Office filed criminal charges with the district attorney over the flight arranged by Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis that took 49 migrants from San Antonio to Martha’s Vineyard last September. Sheriff Javier Salazar hasn’t said who the charges are against, but he said his office has filed both misdemeanor and felony counts of unlawful restraint.

HThe Texas Legislature — surprise, surprise — failed to take critical measures to protect the environment during the regular legislative session, according to a new report by advocacy group Environment Texas. Though lawmakers pledged $1 billion to create new state parks in coming years, it also passed bills incentivizing new fossil fuel infrastructure and limiting the actions cities can take to fight climate change.

The San Antonio Spurs will host an NBA Draft watch party at the AT&T Center on June 22. Fans expect to have plenty to celebrate, since the Silver and Black are expected to use the No. 1 pick to draft the sensational French talent Victor Wembanyama — perhaps the most hyped draft pick since LeBron James. Tickets to the event are available online. — Abe

Sticking it to Planned Parenthood with Trump-appointed Texas Judge Matthew Kacsmaryk

Assclown Alert is a column of opinion, analysis and snark.

Anybody remember Trump-appointed anti-abortion, anti-LGTBQ+ rights, anti-birth control Judge Matthew Kacsmaryk?

Yep. He’s the federal court judge in Texas who tried to outlaw the widely used abortion drug mifepristone, claiming he knew more about its safety risks than experts at the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Even the conservative-dominated Supreme Court saw problems with that and blocked his ruling.

Now, anti-abortion litigants have again sought out Kacsmaryk in hopes he’ll do their bidding in yet another suit that would be handily rejected in virtually any other courtroom.

The recently filed Doe v. Planned Parenthood suit wants to slap Planned Parenthood with up to $1.8 billion in fines and turn over much of that cash to anti-abortion group Center for Medical Progress. Brought by an anonymous anti-abortion activist and backed by Texas Attorney General Ken Paxton, that stiff penalty would be financially devastating to Planned Parenthood.

The litigation makes the absurd claim that Planned Parenthood should have to repay

all the money it received for providing care to Medicaid patients in Texas and Louisiana during a time when those states were under federal court orders to continue working with the organization.

No serious judge would consider the possibility that a healthcare organization be pushed to the brink of bankruptcy for engaging in the work it was approved to do under a court order. Then again, Kacsmaryk has repeatedly proven his willingness to rule based on ideological vendettas rather than the law.

Elect an assclown like Trump, expect him to fill the bench with assclowns. As bad as things are now, just imagine the state judiciary if the former Insurrectionist-in-Chief is allowed four more years to sully it with extremist ideologues.

YOU SAID IT!

After Saturday’s runoff, San Antonio has two new council members. In District 1, political newcomer Sukh Kaur, an education consultant, beat one-term incumbent Mario Bravo. Meanwhile, the well-funded campaign of tech exec Marina Alderete Gavito steamrolled that of computer scientist Dan Rossiter in the runoff to represent the vacant seat for the West Side’s District 7. With the victories of Kaur and Gavito, women now hold six in 10 seats on council.

District 8 Councilman Manny Pelaez may be preparing to launch a run for mayor. With Ron Nirenberg leaving the office after the completion of his current two-year term, Pelaez raised eyebrows by sending an email survey to constituents asking for their thoughts on how the city can boost economic opportunities, public safety and more. Pelaez, an attorney, was first elected to his northwest San Antonio council seat in 2017 and has cultivated a business-friendly reputation.

A source purportedly close to the situation last week told The New York Post that former San Antonio city council member Clayton Perry dated state Attorney General Ken Paxton’s alleged mistress, 50-year-old Laura Olson. Neither Perry or Paxton are having a great year — Perry declined to run for another term on the council after being sentenced to probation for a hit-and-run crash, while Paxton has been impeached by the Texas House. —  Abe Asher

news Find more news coverage every day at sacurrent.com
“Every day this year, the Uvalde families carried the memory of their lost children to the Capitol seeking solutions to end gun violence in Texas. They were ignored. To Republicans’ shame, the Legislature failed to take any steps to stop the flow of dangerous weapons in Texas.”
— State Sen. Roland Gutierrez, D-San Antonio
ASSCLOWN ALERT
Jaime Monzon Brandon Rodriguez

June 22, 2023

6:30 - 8:30 PM

Heat Nightclub

1500 N Main Ave

San Antonio, TX 78212

In celebration of Pride Month, Metro Health will host an event featuring special performances and a panel to discuss the importance of staying up to date with vaccinations, knowing your health status, information on diabetes workshops, and a public health approach to violence prevention.

10 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com

to own “woke” renewables

Editor’s Note: Bad Takes is a column of opinion and analysis.

Twenty years ago, wind and solar energy accounted for a meager 0.7% of Texas’ electricity generation. Today, according to the US Energy Information Administration, that figure now stands at 26%.

Texas’ quiet rollout of a Lone Star Green New Deal ought to be heralded as a remarkable achievement — one unrivaled anywhere else in the U.S. Yet Texas-sized investment in renewables remains something of an embarrassment to fossil fuel-ingratiated politicians of the GOP. Publicly, at least, they continue to call human-induced global warming a hoax concocted by commies to force us to build bike lanes and switch to an all-insect diet.

Writing for pro-democracy advocacy group Indivisible Houston, Stephanie Koithan aptly described the bills Texas lawmakers sent to Gov. Greg Abbott’s desk during the current session as “the legislative equivalent of tossing a Molotov cocktail behind them as they walk away.”

Senate Bill 2627 provides some “$7.2 billion in low-interest loans to support new methane gas power plants,” according to the nonprofit Environment Texas, while House Bill 5 offers power plants “abatements on school taxes for new manufacturing facilities.” Abbott is also expected sign into law the imposition of costs for new transmission lines on solar and wind companies looking to connect to the grid. Proposals to increase energy efficiency or, goodness forbid, set ecologically responsible emissions goals died on the vine.

All this while the planet sizzles. Temperatures in Siberia recently reached 100 degrees, likely for the first time ever, and climate researchers say it’s already too late to save summer Arctic sea ice.

Increasingly alarming studies released this month foretell that, by century’s end, a few billion people will be driven out of the “historical climate niche” as we torch the planet. Deaths due to extreme heat in the Lone Star State reached a two-decade high last year, with pets and people keeling over by the hundreds.

“Politicians here rarely discuss the need for reducing greenhouse gas emissions,” the Texas Tribune reported recently, stating the tragically obvious. This even though “the state suffers the hotter summers, stronger hurricanes, and heavier rains that climate

change has brought.”

Check the weather app on your smartphone and you’ll discover that 13 of the last 30 days in San Antonio exceeded the World Health Organization’s recommendations for the short-term exposure to particulate matter, due in no small part to the nearby fracking of the Eagle Ford Shale. That means more chronic bronchitis, more lung cancer and heart disease, and more asthma, particularly for those who are sensitive, like the young and the elderly.

“Texas industrial facilities reportedly released 135 million pounds of illegal air pollution in 2018, or more than double the amount from the previous year,” according to Swiss air-quality firm IQ Air’s rundown for our city. Yet the “penalties for illegal emissions from all Texas facilities only amounted to $2 million, or roughly one cent per pound” — a number “less than 1/100th of what [the state] could have charged under existing law.”

However, when Texas’ business-fawning culture results in lots of wind turbines and solar panels, that’s when it’s time for Big Government to intervene.

“Texas Republicans have had to abandon their own free-market, anti-regulation ideology in the effort to strangle wind and solar power,” economist Paul Krugman opined in the New York Times. “In the minds of Texas right-wingers the wind has become woke” and “something to be fought even if it hurts business and costs the state both money and jobs.”

Wind and solar are the least expensive means of generating power, according to the Texas Consumer Association, resulting in an astounding $31 billion dollars in wholesale electricity savings over the past decade. If lower electric bills are “woke,” I’m betting most Texans wouldn’t mind enjoying a Bud Light while watching Disney’s revamped Little Mermaid. How can Republicans justify burdening customers with larger bills?

In part by taking cues from the Texas Public Policy Foundation, a right-wing Austin think tank bankrolled by billionaire oil tycoon Tim Dunn. After all the TPPF helped nudge along a well-orchestrated blame-shifting operation that tried to pin the deadly 2021 blackouts on renewables — even though re-

search suggests that energy companies’ skimping on weatherization at natural gas and coal plants was the primary culprit.

And there may be an even more sinister explanation, business columnist Chris Tomlinson revealed on The Carbon Copy, a weekly podcast focusing on moving beyond fossil fuels.

“There is some question what the problem really was,” Tomlinson said, “because a lot of those gas facilities shut down for lack of gas, not because the facilities broke.”

“Because the pipes and wells froze,” host Stephen Lacey interjected, recounting the conventional wisdom.

“I mean, that’s the official excuse,” Tomlinson eventually continued. “But there’s a lawsuit right now that looks at pipeline flow data and accuses the pipeline companies of withholding gas in order to drive up prices.”

That’s a rather startling accusation that implicates artificial scarcity in the preventable deaths of hundreds.

In the aftermath of Hurricane Harvey, when 30 to 60 inches of rain fell on Houston and surrounding areas, erstwhile Texas governor and then-U.S. Energy Secretary Rick Perry declared that state attorneys general “will be watching to make sure there’s not price-gouging going on, and anybody considering raising gas prices above what would be considered appropriate needs to watch out.”

But to play capitalism’s advocate for a second, why shouldn’t I have the right to sell whatever I privately acquire through legitimate means at whatever price I please? And who is a central authority to decide what’s appropriate? If some poor soul fleeing a hurricane is willing to pay me $500 for a tank of gasoline, or electricity prices skyrocket during a freeze or a heatwave, why isn’t that just my good fortune, broader societal consequences be damned?

Evidently even supporters of deregulation and opponents of price controls discover their inner socialist during an emergency. If only we adopted such prudence before the crisis strikes.

sacurrent.com | June 14 – 27, 2023 | CURRENT 11 news BAD TAKES
Texas lawmakers are willing to imperil the planet
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District 1 Upset

Mario Bravo’s loss to newcomer Sukh Kaur shows that consituents think he failed to deliver

Shortly after 7 p.m. last Saturday, as the early voting results for District 1 city council runoff filed in, Councilman Mario Bravo knew that he’d lost — and by a sizable margin at that.

“They’re saying I have a 2% chance,” a visibly disappointed Bravo told an elderly couple attending his watch party at Backyard on Broadway.

In most other elections, one-term incumbent Bravo’s 41%-59% loss to education consultant and political newcomer Sukh Kaur would have come as a surprise. After all, Bravo was no stranger to politics, having previously worked other local elections, including his own unsuccessful 2018 run for a seat on Bexar County Commissioners Court.

“I’ve gotta tell you, I thought Sukh would win, but that’s a pretty big margin of victory,” San Antonio political strategist Christian Archer said of the outcome. “The way that she won and the domination of an incumbent is pretty impressive. Incumbents don’t lose in San Antonio; it’s very rare.”

However, Bravo’s tenure was also mired in more controversy than that of most first-time council incumbents.

First, he inherited the never-ending construction project along the St. Mary’s Strip, a major irritant for both residents and the businesses operating in the

popular nightlife destination. He also took plenty of heat for a pilot project that barred overnight parking in the Tobin Hill neighborhood except for residents — thus further drawing the ire of Strip businesses and customers.

What’s more, Bravo faced a high-profile scandal over an outburst at his then-girlfriend, former District 7 Councilwoman Ana Sandoval, during a city budget meeting in November. A no-confidence vote from the council followed, and Bravo was temporarily stripped of committee assignments, leaving the district with limited representation.

At his watch party, Bravo, an environmental activist prior to his time on the dais, told reporters he wished the media had done more extensive coverage of his successes, including efforts to reform CPS Energy and his leadership of a working group that used money from the city’s Tree Mitigation Fund to plant more vegetation in District 1.

“The thing with Mario’s tenure is that there were just a lot of unenforced errors,” Archer said. “Obviously, the thing that got the most attention was what happened between him and Ana Sandoval, but St. Mary’s Street, that’s the thing that cost him the election.”

Going sideways

In an interview with the Current last week, Bravo acknowledged that his term started going sideways during a hastily organized community meeting in September to discuss the details of the year-long residential pilot program that would grant free parking permits to residents near the Strip.

Bravo said he and his office initially tried to come up with a parking solution that benefited everyone. However, he said City Manager Erik Walsh’s office told him that it wasn’t his job to work on parking enforcement. Instead, the office contracted civil engineering company Pape-Dawson to come up with a solution.

“[Pape-Dawson] made the recommendations, and then the city manager’s office told me that this was going to a vote in two weeks for city council to approve this new residential parking program,” Bravo said. “And I said, ‘Whoa, whoa, whoa. Hit the brakes. You can’t take this to city council without a town hall meeting, without sharing this with the public, and so I called a meeting to do that.”

Although San Antonio Parking Enforcement Manager Martin Ruiz attended the meeting, he didn’t share much detail about the proposed recommendations that the council would be voting on because, at that point, the city manager hadn’t yet seen 15

sacurrent.com | June 14 – 27, 2023 | CURRENT 13 news
Sanford Nowlin MCouncilman Mario Bravo speaks to District 1 residents, business owners and workers during a contentious meeting last year on the St. Mary’s Strip.
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13 the Pape-Dawson study. That led some business owners to speculate that Bravo himself was hiding what the engineering firm recommended.

Bravo also denied that the pilot parking program was scheduled for a council vote during a public meeting with residents and business owners, even though such a vote was scheduled for Oct. 20, as reported by the Current

Mere weeks after the parking meeting, Bravo was again in the news, this time over his outburst at Sandoval during the council meeting.

Then, shortly before the May election, Bravo’s office was again at the center of controversy after an undercover police visit to McIntyre’s Southtown ended up with 15 officers descending on the popular sports bar.

Blame game

Bravo initially said his office had nothing to do with the police visit that critics, including other local bar owners, called a raid. However, emails obtained by Current showed that District 1 staff had sent multiple inquiries about the nightspot’s permits and approvals to other city departments before the incident.

Two weeks later, Bravo responded to the Current’s inquiries about the police visit, finally saying that District 1 Senior Director of Downtown Affairs Stacy Jones had relayed resident complaints about alleged underage drinking and over-serving of patrons at

McIntyre’s to SAPD.

Bravo admitted that Jones’ actions “may have” played a role in the police visit. While the councilman was adamant that residents sparked the incident, already leery bar owners complained on social media that the incident showed Bravo had it out for them.

Bravo did inherit difficult problems, and District 1 is a hard part of town to lead due to its array of conflicting interest groups, Archer said. But, in politics, voters elect someone to step up and take accountability.

“I don’t think everything is Mario’s fault,” Archer said. “But, he’s the councilman. So, he’s gotta solve the problems, and they didn’t get solved.”

He added: “With all the things that it takes to be a District 1 council member, if you make a mistake, you’re going to pay for it and you’ll lose.”

Even though Kaur won by capitalizing on Bravo’s failures, Archer said she would be wise to take stock of what cost him the contest.

“I think this election was a lot more anti-Mario than it was pro-Sukh,” he said. “Now she’s gotta go earn those credentials by hearing those issues and delivering for them. Next, she needs to build a strong relationship with the business community. And in those scenarios, she needs to be about delivering results and not about political promises and talk.”

by Gov. Greg Abbott and Texas voters, bills passed this session would allow the state to create the green spaces over coming decades.

Even so, the same lawmakers passed bills incentivizing development of new fossil fuel infrastructure, banning cities from taking action on climate change and otherwise tying environmental regulators’ hands, according to Environment Texas’ report.

During the Texas Legislature’s regular session, which concluded last week, lawmakers passed historic upgrades to state parks but otherwise slid backward on protecting the state’s air and water quality, according to a new watchdog report.

“Clearly, when it comes to clear air and water, this session was a step back,” said Luke Metzger, executive director of Environment Texas, the advocacy group behind the report. “At the same time, though, the parks thing is certainly the biggest win in my career. It’s the biggest environmental gain I can think of in the 23 years I’ve been involved in Texas politics.”

The Republican-controlled Texas Legislature agreed to invest $1 billion in a newly minted fund to create dozens of new state parks. If approved

Metzger said the parks funding was largely a result of the state’s historic budget surplus. Meanwhile, the other bills are at testament to the powerful hold the deep-pocketed oil and gas lobby still has on the Texas lawmakers.

“The main difference between those bills and the new funding for parks is that there aren’t powerful special interests lobbying against state parks,” he said.

Environment Texas highlighted the following potentially damaging bills that passed both houses and have been signed by Gov. Greg Abbott or await his signature:

• HB 2127, referred to as the “Death Star Bill” by municipal officials, would block cities from adopting environmental regulations that go further than existing state law.

• SB 784 stops cities from regulating

greenhouse gas emissions.

• HB 33 bans Texas agencies and officials from “assisting any federal agency or official with the enforcement of any federal act that purports to regulate oil and gas operations.”

• SB 505 imposes a $200 fee on drivers of electric vehicles. While supporters say the proposal is needed to recoup lost gasoline taxes, Consumer Reports blasted it, arguing the state only needs a $71 fee to recoup those losses.

• SB 833 would bar insurance companies from factoring businesses’ environment, social and governance scores into underwriting decisions. The

bill would “throw into chaos the very essence of what we do,” one insurance official said during testimony.

• HB 5 overhauls controversial rules for offering school-tax abatements for new manufacturing facilities. While it allows polluting petrochemical and LNG plants to qualify for incentives, renewable energy facilities and electric battery producers are barred from participating.

• SB 471 gives the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality, the state’s chief environmental regulator, the ability not to inspect potentially polluting facilities after complaints are filed against them. —Sanford Nowlin

sacurrent.com | June 14 – 27, 2023 | CURRENT 15 news
Despite historic parks funding, Texas Lege failed to protect environment during session, according to new report
Michael Karlis Wikimedia Commons / Library of Congress MMario Bravo (left) poses for a photo with District 2 Councilman Jalen McKee Rodriguez at Saturday’s runoff watch party.

This Pride Month, CPS Energy recognizes the contributions of our LGBTQ+ community. We applaud the efforts of those who join us to continually pursue equity. Our diverse workforce helps us power our community and we are proud to shine a light on our people. Our team members are sharing personal stories to help inspire others to embrace and support each other. Our LGBTQ+ team members are our energy.

16 CURRENT June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com
Read our stories at cpsenergy.com/blogs
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WED | 06.14MON | 06.19

SPECIAL EVENT JUNETEENTH

On June 19, 1865, Union general Gordon Granger arrived in Galveston and issued a proclamation freeing the town’s enslaved people, who were still being held in bondage despite the Confederacy’s surrender two months earlier. For many years now — long before it was made a national holiday in 2021 — Texans have celebrated this occasion as Juneteenth, a time to reflect, remember and most importantly celebrate with family, friends and community. Here are a few ways to celebrate Juneteenth in San Antonio this year.

FREEDOM: A JUNETEENTH CULINARY CONVERSATION

As illustrated in the recent Netflix docuseries High on the Hog, much of what we now call American food has its origins in the culinary contributions of enslaved Black people. Highlighting this is the San Antonio African American Community Archive and Museum, which is hosting a Juneteenth culinary panel discussion in partnership with Texas Public Radio (TPR) to celebrate and uplift Black culinary heritage — and also serve delicious food. The celebration starts off with opportunities for networking on the TPR lawn with drinks and food sold by Chef Darryl Smith of Wing It and Sip It, followed by the main event: a panel discussion and Q&A session featuring four esteemed panelists. Chef VickyV (Victoria Taylor) is a 12-year-old culinary ace who started whipping up delicacies at age 8 and now owns her own catering company. Marcus Baskerville operates five-time

San Antonio Brewery of the Year winner Weathered Souls Brewing Co. and founded Black Is Beautiful, an advocacy project involving craft brewers across the world dedicated to combating racial injustice. Adrian Lipscomb seeks to maintain the legacy of Black agriculture by working with the 40 Acres Project, an organization that buys and restores Black-owned farmland. Finally, Adrian E. Miller is a soul food scholar and writer from Denver, who was featured in High on the Hog and also happens to be a certified barbecue judge. After the discussion and Q&A moderated by TPR producer Dallas Williams, guests can meet the panelists and enjoy eats catered by All Things Gourmet and Chef VickyV. Those looking to attend can RSVP on the Texas Public Radio website. Free, 6-9 p.m. Wednesday, June 14, Malú and Carlos Alvarez Theater, Texas Public Radio, 321 W. Commerce St., saaacam.org.

JUNETEENTH FESTIVAL

In 1996, local organizers created the San Antonio Juneteenth Commission to honor and celebrate the emancipation of Black Americans while lifting up their voices. The commission’s work led to the establishment of an annual Juneteenth Festival, which has been held at Comanche Park on the East Side for more than two decades. This year, the celebration features vendors, food, activities for kids and plenty of live music. DJs will spin all day and night, and musicians will take the stage on Friday and Saturday evenings. San Antonio ensemble The Legends will provide the music Friday night while Larry Braggs, former frontman of the legendary horn-driven R&B band Tower of Power, will perform Saturday. Friday night also will feature a fish fry, which benefits the Flotilla Club’s scholarship fund for San Antonio-area students. Free, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, June 16 and Saturday, June 17, Comanche Park #2, 2600 Rigsby Ave., juneteenthsanantonio.com.

JUNETEENTH BLOCK PARTY AND FAIR

With partners including the African American Chamber of Commerce of San Antonio and the San Antonio Food Bank, the third annual Juneteenth Block Party and Fair is relatively new but packs in a lot of celebratory good times. Come for the food trucks and live music, stay for the play areas, speakers, vendors and organizations offering info on education, small business resources and health and wellness, three areas where Black Americans have historically suffered from a lack of opportunity and access. The Block Party is organized by the Dream Big Scholarship Fund to raise money for its scholarships and education programs.

$10-$20, 3-9 p.m. Saturday, June 17, Crockett Park, 1300 N. Main Ave., sanantoniojuneteenth.com.

FREEDOM: A GOSPEL CELEBRATION OF JUNETEENTH

On the afternoon of Juneteenth proper, a wide-ranging group of gospel legends will converge on the Tobin Center’s stage for a show that promises to enshrine the Black experience in America in the form of joyful noise. Organized by SAAACAM and Houston’s Gospel Music Haus and Museum, the show begins with the San Antonio Gospel Heritage Choir, featuring soloist Icy Monroe, honoring Mimi Redd, the original singer of “Order My Steps.” Then, Gospel Music Haus founder — and Gospel Music Hall of Fame member — V. Michael McKay performs gospel hits with the Houston Legends Choir. Finally, the legendary gospel and Christian singer Brian Courtney Wilson, a Grammy Award nominee and Stellar Award recipient, takes the stage to spread the gospel messages of faith, community and hope, even as injustice persists. $10, 4 p.m. Monday, June 19, H-E-B Performance Hall, Tobin Center for the Performing Arts, 100 Auditorium Circle, (210) 223-8624, tobincenter.org.

Reminder:

Although live events have returned, the COVID-19 pandemic is still with us. Check with venues to make sure scheduled events are still happening, and please follow all health and safety guidelines.

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Courtesy Photo / Tobin Center for the Performing Arts Courtesy Photo / SA Block Party Jaime Monzon
18 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com

FRI | 06.16

COMEDY

COLIN JOST

Colin Jost, the second-best-known Saturday Night Live personality from Staten Island — after Pete Davidson, of course — is hitting San Antonio for a night of laughs and looks behind the SNL curtain. At first glance, stand-up comedy might not seem to be entirely in Jost’s wheelhouse. After all, following his graduation from Harvard, he got his start on SNL behind the scenes as a writer, then ascending to a spot as co-anchor of the show’s classic news roundup segment Weekend Update alongside fellow writer Michael Che. As Jost might tell you, though, he and standup have a long history together. In fact, in his 2020 memoir A Very Punchable Face, he writes about his many nights working on bits in New York bars and comedy clubs. “If you’re funny onstage, it’s undeniable,” he says. “And when you’re killing, there’s nothing else in the world you’d rather be doing.” $39.50 and up, 8 p.m., Majestic Theatre, 224 E. Houston St., (210) 226-3333, majesticempire.com. — Dean Zach

SUN | 06.18

FILM

WILD WILD WEST

FRI | 06.16

SPECIAL EVENT

NIGHT OUT AT THE ZOO

The third annual Night Out At The Zoo, a collaboration between the San Antonio Zoological Society and Pride San Antonio, is an after-hours, ticketed event where guests can celebrate the LGBTQ+ community alongside lions, tigers and bears — oh my! The family-friendly event will feature live music from DJ Alyson Alonzo, Kelany

Every summer, the Briscoe Western Art Museum celebrates the season of long evenings and balmy nights with its Summer Film Series, a set of three Westerns shown on the third Sundays of June, July and August. This year, though, the series has a twist: each of its movies blends the Western genre with science fiction. The Briscoe kicks things off with the 1999 film Wild Wild West, which stars Will Smith and Kevin Kline as heroes pitted against Kenneth Branagh, an evil inventor of giant metal spiders. Based on a cult ’60s TV series, the movie takes place in a steampunk Old West setting, where far-flung inventions such as massive iron tarantulas coexist with gunslingers and rugged canyons. The plot, which takes a backseat to the dazzling, bank-breaking special effects, features Smith and Kline as Secret Service agents tasked with protecting President Ulysses S. Grant (also played by Kline) while also foiling the devious plot of ex-Confederate inventor Dr. Arliss Loveless (Branagh), who’s obsessed with spider-themed weaponry. If nothing else, it’s silly, brainless fun — though arachnophobes may want to proceed with caution. $8-$14, 1 p.m., Briscoe Western Art Museum, 210 W. Market St., (210) 299-4499, briscoemuseum.org. — DZ

& The All-Nighters and the Live Oak Singers. Guests can grab food from the Spurs Street Eats food truck and explore animal experiences, enjoy HeroesNMore superhero appearances, learn about community resources and more. This year, guests will also be able to take advantage of a sensory safe space inside the event, provided by DisAbilitySA. And the zoo’s residents aren’t the only animals that will be in attendance — the Spurs Coyote will also make an appearance at 6:30 p.m. $15-$20, 6-10 p.m., San Antonio Zoo, 3903 N. St. Mary’s St., (210) 734-7184, sazoo.org. —

SAT | 06.17

BURLESQUE THE PASTIE POPS BIG QUEER BURLESQUE SHOW

The annual Pride Month show hosted by the Pastie Pops Burlesque Revue shines a scintillating spotlight on the risqué, offering an array of vivacious, cheeky performances to celebrate the LGBTQ+ community. Hosted by Foxxy Blue Snacks and Topsy Curvy, the variety show promises red-hot talent from an incredible cast and special guests, including Jasper St. James, Vixy Van Hellen, Mary Annette, Natasha B. Capri, Ira Descent, Shayla Shimmy, Logan Liqueur, Mademoiselle du Jour and Azucar. Whether or not you have been to a burlesque show before, the Pastie Pops welcome all with this inclusive, body-positive production

at the Bonham Exchange’s historic Rainbow Ballroom. $10-$150, 8 p.m., Bonham Exchange, 411 Bonham St., (210) 224-9219, bonhamexchange.com.

sacurrent.com | June 14 – 27, 2023 | CURRENT 19
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Warner Home Video Shutterstock / Kathy Hutchins Courtesy Photo / San Antonio Zoo Courtesy Photo / The Pastie Pops
20 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com *Rosé Sale runs 5/8/23-6/24/23. Save on most Rosé wine – some exclusions apply. Sale items can be shopped in-store and online at twinliquors.com. Selection varies by store. Items and prices subject to change without notice. No further discount on Sale Items, Final Few, or Closeouts. PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY. SCAN TO SHOP OUR CURRENT SPECIALS TWINLIQUORS.COM SHOP THIS SALE AND MORE IN-STORE AND ONLINE SAVE ON ALL ROSÉ WINE MAY 8 - JUNE 24

TUE | 06.20SUN | 07.02

THEATER HAMILTON

After a COVID outbreak in the cast forced the postponement of Hamilton’s January 2022 dates in San Antonio, the hit musical is finally making its return. The touring company will present 16 performances over the course of two weeks. The acclaimed musical — which secured 11 Tony Awards, a Grammy and a Pulitzer Prize, among other accolades — gained notoriety for its pioneering blend of hip hop, R&B and traditional Broadway sound, challenging long-held perceptions of what musical theater can and should be. Hamilton, however, is known for breaking more than just sonic barriers. It subverted America’s racist roots by casting actors of color to play white historical figures. A 21st-century twist on the American Revolution, Hamilton has unleashed the hidden history buff in teenagers and young adults all over. Those who held tickets to the show’s rescheduled January 2022 dates should check their email or the Majestic Theatre’s website to determine which summer date their original ticket corresponds to. All seat placements should remain the same. $150 and up, 7:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 8 p.m. Friday, 2 p.m. and 8 p.m. Saturday-Sunday, Majestic Theatre, 224 E. Houston St., (210) 226-3333, majesticempire.com. — Caroline WolfF

SAT | 06.24

SPECIAL EVENT

PRIDE BIGGER THAN TEXAS FESTIVAL AND PARADE

Pride San Antonio’s Pride Bigger Than Texas Festival and Parade is back, celebrating its 20th year in the Alamo City. With lawmakers anti-LGBTQ+ actions on the rise in Texas and the rest of the country, this annual Pride event aims to celebrate diversity and unity in San Antonio without fear. Featuring events such as the Krystal Kelly Running of the Queens High Heel Race and the ninth annual Mass Wedding Ceremony as well as live performances by artists including Liz Garcia, Bidi Bidi Banda and Cuban Diva, the city’s LGBTQ+ community is sure to be loud, proud and loving in the festivities throughout the day and into the night. After the festival ends at 7 p.m., stick around for the parade at 9 p.m., which is free to view. $12-$15, 11 a.m-11 p.m., Crockett Park, 1300 N. Main Ave., pridesanantonio.org.— Colin Houston

Bonham Exchange. Despite losing on Drag Race, Edwards became a fan favorite for her sassy Southern attitude, magnetic attraction to mirrors and unbelievable dancing talent. Thanks to that unusual mix, she later appeared on the second season of Drag Race All Stars, and now owns and operates Beyond Belief Dancing Co. in her hometown of Mesquite, which was the subject of the Netflix docuseries Dancing Queen $40-$50, 10:30 p.m. and midnight, Bonham Exchange, 411 Bonham St., facebook.com/ reylopezentertainment. — CH

TUE | 06.20

CLASSICAL MUSIC AGARITA

The chamber ensemble Agarita, whose name comes from a small Texas-native shrub that produces bright red berries, began as four people playing concerts in houses with their respective instruments — cello, violin, viola and piano. Five years later, Agarita blossomed into something far larger, presenting concerts across all of San Antonio that often feature dynamic collaborations with local artists and present works by composers from a variety of time periods and regions of the globe. The ensemble’s upcoming concert at the San Antonio Museum of Art, which will take place during the museum’s free admission hours, is no exception. As Agarita co-founder and pianist Daniel Anastasio explains, in each of five SAMA galleries, from the Viceregal Latin American to the Contemporary Gallery, the ensemble will play musical pieces that are “carefully curated pairings” which put the museum’s artwork in a whole new light. The three-hour event will feature a wide variety of pieces, ranging from the dense, complex melodies of the early 18th-century Baroque composer Domenico Scarlatti in the ornate Viceregal Latin Am. Gallery to the minimalist, experimental tinkerings of 1947-born composer John Adams in the Contemporary Gallery. Ac-

cording to Anastasio, guests are free to move from gallery to gallery in whatever order they feel like, since the pieces will be repeated “to allow for a comprehensive listening experience.” The feast for both the eyes and ears will conclude in SAMA’s Great Hall at approximately 6:30 p.m. with a performance of two movements from 20th century Brazilian composer Heitor Villa-Lobos’ String Quartet No. 1 Free, 4-7 p.m., San Antonio Museum of Art, 200 W. Jones Ave., (210) 978-8100, agarita.org. — DZ

THU | 06.22

DRAG ALYSSA EDWARDS

Originally making her name competing in the Miss Gay America pageant and in season five of RuPaul’s Drag Race, Alyssa Edwards is bringing her Mesquite, Texas glam down I-35 for two shows at the

sacurrent.com | June 14 – 27, 2023 | CURRENT 21
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Julián P. Ledezma John Marcus Natalia Sun Courtesy Photo / Rey Lopez Entertainment
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Punk With a Pen

San Antonio comic artist Mitch Clem compiles

autobiographical work in new collection My Stupid Life

Few creators in the world of underground comics during the 2000s were as prolific as Minneapolis native and current San Antonio resident Mitch Clem.

After releasing his popular fictional webcomic about the Minneapolis punk scene, Nothing Nice to Say, as a graphic novel in 2018, Clem is back with a new book: the collection My Stupid Life, published by San Francisco-based press Silver Sprocket.

Marking an exit from the fiction that characterized Nothing Nice to Say, the new book compiles Clem’s autobiographical work from 2006 to 2013, including his webcomic series San Antonio Rock City and My Stupid Life. It also includes some of his contributions to the punk magazine Razorcake and the As You Were comic series.

My Stupid Life is available now.

From comedic strips joking about his personal life to more sobering stories recounting the toll being on the punk scene can take, the book documents major changes and progressions in both Clem’s art style and his personal life during that time.

Clem’s jump into autobiographical comics came shortly after his move from Minnesota to San Antonio in early 2006. His webcomic San Antonio Rock City focused on his adjustment to a new city and punk scene with his then-girlfriend Victoria.

The transition from fiction to autobiographical work came with new challenges. Namely, that he was writing about real people who could take offense to their depiction in his work.

“There’s this safety in writing fiction that you don’t have with nonfiction,” said Clem, 40. “Even if you write some super personal

shit, but you project it onto a fictional character, there’s this safe buffer there.”

MyStupidLife

Clem wrapped up San Antonio Rock City in 2007 around the time he ended his relationship with Victoria. A year later, his desire to write comics returned, leading to the launch of My Stupid Life, the namesake of his new book.

This new series featured a tonal shift, including a more consistent look and grounding in style. Clem partly attributes that to changes in his life, including meeting his current partner Amanda.

“I would say the major difference in my life at that point was dating Amanda, who I would go on to marry and have a kid with and everything,” he said. “So I did find myself uniquely in a very good place.”

As My Stupid Life progressed, Clem’s comics gradually became longer and dealt with more serious subject matter, such as his struggles with illness, mental health issues and money troubles. That culminated in Clem’s launch of As You Were in 2013, a punk zine featuring work by himself and other cartoonists. His contributions to the mag were drastically different from his prior work, transitioning from short strips to pages-long entries that were more serious in tone.

What’s evident throughout the progression of comics collected in My Stupid Life is that Clem’s art style is ever evolving. The panels comprising San Antonio Rock City are relatively simple, but as the book progresses, the backgrounds and character designs become more fleshed out.

The progression was intentional. Clem

made serious efforts to improve his art and even reached out to peers for feedback.

“An influence who I reached out to was [graphic novelist] Evan Dorkin, whose art I really love,” he said. “The most important thing I think he told me, or my biggest takeaway, was to just draw backgrounds.”

Moving Forward

While the new book is the highlight of this year for Clem, he is also looking ahead to future artistic endeavors.

For one, he’s roughly 250 pages into writing a graphic novel, which has an unofficial accompanying soundtrack featuring bands including groundbreaking Minneapolis punk trio Hüsker Dü.

“It’s probably the fifth or sixth graphic novel that I started, and every other book just didn’t happen for whatever reason,” Clem said. “There is another graphic novel before this that I completely wrote, and then the second it was written I was like, ‘I can’t look at this anymore.’ … So this one is me finally, like, ‘I’m going to finish this goddamn book. It’s going to happen.’”

Beyond graphic novels, Clem expressed a desire to continue Turnstile Comix, a biographical comic series about bands whose music he enjoys. The origins of that series date back to 2010. He’s also open to writing autobiographical works again.

“I would if I could justify telling any personal stories for sure,” he said. “There’s like a hump to get over of being like, ‘Well, this is not a unique experience … everybody does this or feels this way.’ But I guess maybe that can be beneficial.”

Whatever the future may hold, Clem finds it hard to see one without a place in it for art as an outlet.

“I definitely liked the idea that people would be able to project their own similar experiences [on the comic],” he said. “I oftentimes appreciate when art can make you feel less alone.”

Find more arts coverage every day at sacurrent.com arts
Mitch Clem

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26 CURRENT June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com

No Narrative

Once known for figural works, artist James Cobb’s latest show has him creating mini-universes

In the ’80s and ’90s, San Antonio visual artist James Cobb rode the rollercoaster of the then-booming gallery scene. Solo shows took him across the United States, and his works appeared in shows in Paris and Japan.

Retired from his job as a university instructor and more selective about where and how often he shows his work, Cobb now lives a quieter life. The self-taught painter, who migrated to San Antonio from California in the early ’80s, is still a prolific creator — just one who makes fewer overnight trips pulling U-Haul trailers filled to the brim with his work.

In his latest exhibition at San Antonio’s FL!GHT Gallery, Cobb showcases 23 new pieces, both paintings and digital works. Six were created during the pandemic.

All were the result of working slowly rather than feeling the pressure to show or sell, Cobb said. During a walkthrough of the gallery, Cobb explained that his triptych painting Sheltering Funnies (Flood Tides of Love) was a project he intended to take his time with.

“I started this when we were locked down, and I wanted to have a series of work that would take me a while,” he said. “Because I felt like I didn’t need to just pile up objects, and it was a weird enough time that I actually didn’t know what I wanted to address as an artist.”

While the isolation of the COVID-19 crisis was unwelcome for many, Cobb rolled with it. Isolation can be a natural part of the creative process. Both painting and digital art tend to be solitary endeavors.

“It didn’t change my routine much, because I had just retired just before [the lockdown], so I was already at home all the time,” he said.

Away from the figure

While discussing Sheltering Funnies (Flood Tides of Love), which blends abstract shapes and vibrant colors, Cobb spoke about how each canvas contains its own universe. He points to an individual panel, in which a bronze background, amber sweeping strokes and tinges of gold all suggest optimism and curiosity.

“This little universe stops within each panel, whenever this is, and whatever’s going on is kind of stuck here,” Cobb said.

Cobb’s ’80s and ’90s paintings were primarily figurative. He often painted his subjects with exaggerated appendages, their bodies contorted into odd angles and surrounded by loud colors — all reminiscent of the German Expressionist movement of which Franz Marc, Otto Dix and Hermann Max Pechstein are prime examples.

“I painted people and situations, and there was often a little bit of a narrative,” Cobb said. “There’s really no narrative at this point.”

For Cobb, the departure from painting human subjects began in the late ’90s. It was a decision fueled by a desire to generate more sales of commercial art, he said. The gallery art scene is a rollercoaster of highs and lows, after all.

“Ultimately I ended up creating very little commercial work but went down a rabbit hole of my own imagery,” said Cobb.

Not antisocial

In the end, the departure was exactly what Cobb was looking for — a way out of his own work. Digital art allowed him a sense of playfulness, plus the ability to hit reset and explore new artistic approaches that would have proved difficult had he stuck with painting.

In recent years, he’s moved back into painting, but he’s stuck with the abstraction unlocked via his deep dive into the digital realm.

“You know, human beings were principal subjects in [my] mind for years, and it’s not like I’m anti-social or not interested in people, but as something to paint, I’m really not interested in that,” he said.

Even though Cobb has been removed from figurative painting for years now, he said the visual vocabulary and technique he developed during the early portion of his career has stayed with him. It is a vocabulary he’s proud to showcase.

“I don’t feel influenced by anyone, or two or three particular people. I feel like I’m at a great place right now,” Cobb said. “And, actually, this is such a great development for me personally, where I’ve got my own personal visual vocabulary that I’m really happy to work within, you know. I want to push it.”

sacurrent.com | June 14 – 27, 2023 | CURRENT 27 arts
CobbDIGITAL
Free, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesday to Friday, noon-5 p.m. Saturday to Sunday through Oct. 15, Blue Star Arts Complex, 112 R Blue Star, (210) 872-2586, instagram.com/flightgallery
“James Cobb: Recent Work,”

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30 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com

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32 CURRENT June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com Affion
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Annie Lederman

Symbol of Hope

Sasha Calle talks about being the first Latina to play Supergirl in forthcoming film The Flash

For actress Sasha Calle, becoming Supergirl was destiny.

“I always knew I wanted to be in an action movie, and I really loved superhero films,” said Calle, 27, who portrays the beloved DC Comics character in the forthcoming Warner Bros. film The Flash. “To be honest, it was written in the stars. That’s how I could describe it.”

Calle, who’s U.S.-born and of Colombian descent, is the first Latina to play the role of the Kara Zor-El, the superpowered alien from the planet Krypton, who also happens to be Superman’s cousin.

The role is also a first in another way. The Flash marks Calle’s first appearance in a major motion picture. She’s primarily known for her Daytime Emmy-winning portrayal of Lola Rosales on CBS soap opera The Young and the Restless.

Every superhero has a point in their story that changes the trajectory of their lives forever. Calle’s moment came in 2021 over a Zoom call with Argentine filmmaker Andrés “Andy” Muschietti, who directed The Flash Unaware that the call was being recorded, Calle broke down in tears as Muschietti pulled out the Supergirl suit onscreen, revealing that she’d landed the role. The reaction, which has gone viral on the actress’ social media accounts, is reminiscent of her character in the film: strong yet vulnerable.

In addition to Calle, The Flash includes Ezra Miller as the titular superhero, who uses his power to move at blazing speed to travel back in time and change past events. The ensemble cast also features Michael Shannon, Ron Livingston, Maribel Verdú and Michael Keaton.

The Current caught up with Calle during a press visit to San Antonio to promote the film. During the talk, she offered thoughts on what Supergirl means to her and others as well as what she hopes fans get from the movie, which hits theaters worldwide June 16.

In a recent interview, you said you’re deeply in love with your character. What did you mean by that?

God, because there are so many things. I think she’s just a symbol of hope for me. (Takes a deep breath.) God, wow, I’m getting very emotional today. She’s a symbol of hope for me, I think. I grew up with some adversities, and a lot of my dreams seemed very

impossible. … And I look at this poster, and she’s a symbol of hope for me, truly. And I hope that she can be a symbol of hope for anyone who relates to her and sees her.

When you got the news you were going to be Supergirl, did you know at that point how you wanted to portray the character? You know, the script was written. When they sent it to the casting, they knew what they wanted, right? So they knew that they wanted [Supergirl to be] strong. Andy had a vision for her. So when he cast me, he [told me], “It was you; it was always you.” He had a vision, so when I stepped in, the script was written, the concepts of the suit were finished. I promised Andy I would cut my hair before even knowing that I was going to play Supergirl. So, I just stepped into the art of it all and gave all of me and my part of the journey.

What can DC fans expect to be surprised about with your version of Supergirl?

She’s a new iteration of Supergirl, and I think that that’s a very exciting thing. … I just hope that people love her as much as I do and enjoy the movie. But, for the movie in general, the title says it, you know, “Worlds collide.” And it’s fun and emotional and loving. And it was made with a lot of heart.

Roughly 500 people auditioned for the role. Was there at any point before the director

told you that it was yours that you thought, “I nailed this?”

I mean, when Andy told me, I was like, “OK, this is what I’m doing,” but it wasn’t really until months later, when Andy revealed to me that when he saw my tape he knew, and that was all. That to me is a really special feeling — and really kind to share that with me as an artist and an actress. It’s really special when things work out and fit, and people see your art and appreciate it. Andy saw mine and was like, “This is her.” So, that moment for me was the moment.

Was it hard jumping from a soap opera to a superhero movie?

Not really, no. I’m an artist. I flow. But I have always wanted to play a character like Supergirl, so I was very excited and pumped and ready. I felt like my whole life had prepared me for a moment like that.

For aspiring actors in San Antonio, many of them Latina, what’s your advice?

For any human being who has big dreams, I would say, don’t allow anyone to tell you that you’re not capable of doing it. And to be honest, a lot of people will tell you that you can’t do it. You just have to believe in what your heart is telling you. And you have to keep on going. I would say keep on going. You’ll get there.

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Michael DeLeon
34 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com

Meet the Queens of Sweet

These multi-faceted San Antonio pastry chefs are raising the profile of the local food scene

Pastry chefs deserve the admiration of food lovers — even those who claim not to have a sweet tooth.

First, these culinary professionals have dedicated themselves to mastering meticulous techniques on a quest for precision and perfection. While savory cooking allows for some degree of improvisation and last-minute tweaking, baking is far more dictated by the laws of science. A slip of the hand when measuring any one ingredient can destroy a potential masterpiece before it even hits the oven.

Second, these culinary innovators trans-

form simple ingredients into visually stunning and mouthwatering creations even though they seldom receive the same level of fanfare lavished on their counterparts on the savory side. You may know the name of the executive chef at your favorite dining spot, but do you know who’s handling the bread and desserts?

Sadly, in recent years, many restaurants have outsourced the pasty side of the house to cut costs and consolidate staff. The results can be painful. Few things give a dining experience a more auspicious start than fresh, still-warm bread being delivered to the table.

Or bring it to a more satisfying conclusion than indulging in an innovative and decadent house-made dessert.

We sat down with four of the San Antonio area’s finest pastry chefs — all of whom happen to be women — to discuss their unique claims to fame within the culinary scene and highlight their divergent paths.

These talented chefs aren’t just culinary scientists, dedicated craftspeople and savvy business owners, they’re badasses making a significant mark on food in the Alamo City — one delectable bite at a time.

food Find more food & drink news at sacurrent.com
36 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com

Alessia Benavides

Moving from educator to bonbon expert

Alessia Benavides knows what it means to persevere.

Creating scores of shiny, perfectly uniform bonbons, as she does as owner of chocolate and candy shop Chocolatl is no easy feat. It requires a tricky technique called tempering that involves raising and lowering chocolate’s temperature to alter its internal crystal formation.

The three types of chocolate — milk, white and dark — have varying amounts of cocoa butter and milk fats, so each requires a different set of temperatures to reach a satisfactorily tempered state.

Chocolate that’s tempered correctly has an appealingly glossy look, a creamy mouthfeel and it stays solid in warmer temperatures. If not done well, the chocolate is dull and crumbly.

If this sounds like a tedious process for creating bite-sized sweet treats, it is. And it’s a necessary step before Benavides even goes about creating the fillings in each of Chocolatl’s bites. The bonbons are filled with anything from rich brown butter cookie dough and creamy cheesecake to punchy mango margarita and rich, sweet pina colada.

Benavides formulates with inspiration from her favorite flavor combinations — a point at which creativity meets technique.

“I specialize in French baking, so everything bread, everything torte, but I’ve always been obsessed with chocolate,” said Benavides, who also works as a pastry chef-instructor at The Art Institute’s San Antonio branch — something she’s done since 2012. “For years, I would order chocolates from other states and other cities, and then one day I was like, ‘What if that’s what I’m meant to do?’”

To follow that quest, Benavides took classes online from a chef in Las Vegas. It was a revelation in formulating recipes.

“You cannot just mix ingredients and that’s it,” she said. “There’s a whole set of steps you have to follow to create decent textures. I’m going to go to another masterclass of hers in September to learn some more new techniques, you know. Always learning, that’s important.”

Though the Benavides revels in the zen-like, solitary nature of bonbon production, she says her students provide a source of eager assistance when it’s needed. Her Chocolatl Mother’s Day orders, for example, were so stacked up that she had no choice but take some students up on their offers to help.

Fulfilling those orders, Benavides fell comfortably back into instructor mode, walking the students through painting and filling each mold in a uniform manner. Such exercises, she said, show her which students possess the innate discipline required to become a successful pastry chef.

“I’ve seen a lot of students, and there are always a handful that constantly ask for help, advice on how they can get better at what they’re doing,” she said. “There are the ones that don’t have the patience, but the ones that do and want to get better, they definitely motivate me even more to help them as much as I can.”

Though her dedication to detail has served her well, Benavides didn’t always expect to be putting it to use in a kitchen. Even though she enjoyed baking cakes and cheesecakes with her grandmother while growing up, she always expected to forge a career as an architect or civil engineer — albeit while running a bakery as a side gig.

To her parents’ initial disappointment, she changed her career path at the last moment and enrolled in culinary school.

Her dedication and attention to detail are now paying dividends.

Benavides graduated from lauded local culinary

business incubator program Break Fast & Launch in 2022, and she launched Chocolatl in January of this year. Benavides now ships her bonbons — available in a dozen flavors — and other sweets nationwide. Among the business’ other popular offerings are its guava alfajors, a South American dessert made with two cookies surrounding a filling of dulce de leche and guava paste.

When not fulfilling orders or teaching at the Art Institute, Benavides somehow finds the time to offer in-person and online classes for home cooks and aspiring pros. She’s obsessed with chocolates, but teaching the next generation of pastry chefs is a worthwhile endeavor while she ramps up more business for Chocolatl.

“I have a couple of students that are very motivated. They’re always doing something, asking me what’s next, when can I come help,” she said. “They’re so interested, and that motivates me. They’re always learning, so I’m always learning.”

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Elise Russ

Making familiar desserts that lay just outside the comfort zone

The menu of Castle Hills eatery Clementine showcases a blend of fresh Texas ingredients with contemporary techniques, resulting in dishes that are both comforting and inventive.

Pastry chef-owner Elise Russ’ desserts at Clementine especially shine. Her carrot cake features the requisite cream cheese icing paired with candied pineapple and coconut ice cream.

But this isn’t your grandma’s carrot cake. The decadent layers are separated by the tangy, airy frosting and topped with golden brown tuile cookie shards. The phrase “too pretty to eat” isn’t an exaggeration here.

According to Russ, creating an arresting visual representation of a comforting dessert is just one part of stretching diners’ imaginations.

“I like for my desserts to be recognizable, so that someone can look at the menu and say, ‘Carrot cake or chocolate mousse — I know what that is. I like to eat that,’” she said. “And then when they get it. It’s a little bit of a surprise, because it looks different from what your mom would have made.”

Her approach even extends to humble treats like the donut.

“It’s fun to challenge people by doing something like donuts — but with cardamom,” Russ said. “Maybe that’s not necessarily a flavor people would eat often, but they recognize a freshly fried donut and coffee ice cream. So it’s finding a way to challenge our guests, but at the same time providing something that’s familiar.”

Russ honed her artistic presentation working at hotels and fine dining establishments before she and husband John Russ — a recent James Beard Award finalist — opened Clementine. Growing up, her parents worked in hotels, so her goal had been to be an executive pastry chef at a Carlton Ritz or Four Seasons property.

She nearly realized that dream in Chicago, where she worked at a high-end hotel property for three years. While the gig polished her skills, the highly competitive environment eventually began to wear on Russ.

“You had to be very cutthroat and couldn’t really be friends with anybody, because everyone wanted your job — and the way to get promoted was to be backstabbing and looking out only for yourself,” she said. “I became this person I didn’t like. I wasn’t nice. I just really didn’t want to live that kind of life, and it took me a long time to let go of that person.”

Russ also encountered the hardships of being a woman in the kitchen, especially on the line. Working in the kitchen during service required her to “be mean,” she said. Russ said women in the kitchen are

often forced to change her their personalities and harden themselves to deal with what’s frequently a boys’ club.

Meeting Russ, it’s hard to associate her with the kind of isolating, self-preserving behavior she said she once took on as a survival mechanism. She exhudes warmth and calm as she speaks. She credits that personal growth to becoming a mom.

“Things became a lot easier once I had kids,” she explains. “I became a lot more empathetic and understanding. In this industry, you know, we sacrifice everything for our job. That includes our health, mental health, family and our friends. I missed every single wedding, every holiday, while I was building my career. And I don’t want that for my staff. I want it

to be different for them.”

Russ’ daily focus oscillates between creating the components for each dessert in the mornings and administrative duties tied to the business. On rare occasions, when needed, she returns to her roots and works a dinner service alongside the rest of the kitchen staff. On those nights, she says, a calm comes over her that’s unlike anything else.

“That’s what I love doing. But inevitably, I’m getting interrupted by purveyors or John or calls or emails or something that like has to be dealt with — you know, money or payroll or invoices,” she said. “I love when I can just work that station and kind of pretend to be a cook when people walk in. I can just do what I love at my little table in my corner. It just feels right.”

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Jenn Riesman

Proving the cost of pastry is more than its ingredients

Jenn Riesman’s mark on the San Antonio food scene can be seen in the desserts she supplies to area restaurants and in her own bake shop in Shavano Park. Her beautiful, flavorful creations have graced wedding tables and exclusive dinner parties for nearly a decade, and now she’s created a safe, inclusive place for pastry lovers to gather.

That Reisman was able to launch the brick-andmortar incarnation of her Rooster Crow Baking Co. in fall 2022 as historic inflation drove up the prices of pantry staples such as flour, sugar and eggs is no mean feat. But she wants people to know that the cost of doing business as a pastry chef is about more than those ingredients.

“I paid a stiff price to be able to do what I do. And it’s not just the cost of goods,” said Reisman, 35. “It’s the early hours, long hours, time dealing with bullshit in kitchens. If you go to a nice restaurant and order a beautifully plated dessert, the person who plated it is probably a woman and probably mistreated.”

Indeed, Riesman said she — like many women in the culinary industry — encountered stereotypes, limited opportunities, lower pay and worse. The lack of mentorship and representation in leadership roles can also make it difficult for female chefs to find guidance and role models, she added.

“I’ve spent my entire adult life in kitchens, getting yelled at, being touched or being sexually harassed,” she said. “Or manipulated because of how passionate I am about what I do. Every dessert that comes out of a kitchen, someone devoted their time to it, their efforts. That’s the real cost.”

Riesman’s connection to her craft despite all obstacles is apparent on a visit to her shop. It shines through in every massive chocolate whoopee pie or butterscotch bourbon banana pie in the glass case at Rooster Crow. She uses high-quality chocolate and butter, as well as fresh seasonal fruit, even though higher prices have cut into her bottom line.

The storefront incarnation of Riesman’s Rooster Crow was an unexpected turn of events set in motion by the closure of longtime Shavano Park bakery Sol y Luna Baking Co. Its owners, friends of Riesman, were ready to retire, and were willing to vouch for her when the landlord sought someone new to take over the space.

“It was never a longstanding plan for me to open a bakery. It’s a random spot, but I just didn’t have a choice. What else was I going to do?” Riesman said. “It fell in my lap, but now it’s a safe space. I’m a resident of the area now, so if I can’t sleep, I can just go to the shop and let my soul breathe. I create the things that I love.”

The demanding nature of pastry chefs’ craft often

involves unpaid — or barely paid — apprenticeships following years of specialized training in culinary school. In Riesman’s case, that experience included years of jumping city to city for hotel jobs, sometimes for as little as a dollar-per-hour raise.

Competition within the industry, especially in hotels, is also fierce. Standing out requires continuous innovation and staying up-to-date with trends. Balancing artistic expression with the need to break even as a business owner is a level of stress Riesman said she’d never intended for herself.

Though the price point of Riesman’s meticulous

creations are a step above what consumers pay at a grocery store for baked goods, she’s convinced it’s a small price to pay for what a truly exceptional dessert can symbolize: hope.

“You don’t just buy cake for a party because it’s sweet or a luxury,” she said. “It’s not the butter, it’s not the chocolate, it’s not the price. A dessert is the beginning of a marriage. The beginning of a life, a bar mitzvah. It’s the hope that you’ll live for another year, and it’s the celebration of the year past. That’s the luxury that people are paying for.”

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Grecia Ramos

Charting a path beyond the barbecue business

Grecia Ramos’s leap to baking as a profession occurred on something of a whim.

Her last-minute bread pudding entry in a barbecue competition earned her 13th place in a contest of nearly 300 entries. Ramos has crafted the desserts for husband Esaul Ramos’ lauded Southeast San Antonio spot 2M Smokehouse since its inception, but that surprise finish helped convince her that she could strike out on her own.

Ramos is now finishing out a small space in Castroville that she expects to launch in early fall as her artisan bakery. The venture, dubbed Baked, will turn out sweet treats for 2M while offering the nearby community a variety of baked goods. The shop will specialize in sourdoughs and laminated doughs — two of bread’s most temperamental categories.

Laminating dough involves folding in butter multiple times, creating thin, alternating layers while keeping the butter cool. It’s tricky but results in the delicate and flaky layers prized in croissants and puff pastry.

Sourdough, on the other hand, relies on environmental factors such as temperature and water quality, and it begins with a live, fermented culture of fresh flour and water. The process naturally leavens the bread while imparting its namesake tangy flavors.

Both techniques can be daunting to novice bakers, as many learned during the pandemic, but Ramos considers them worthwhile challenges.

“They’re so tedious but so rewarding for me,” she said. “I got into lamination, and you can see the process between the layers and folds — and the mouthfeel, the texture of the finished product will depend on how many folds you do. And sourdough, it’s so dependent on all these factors, you know, the environment itself. With that, we’re going to be learning every day, it never stays the same. And that’s probably what makes me want to keep doing that.”

Like many pastry pros, Ramos also savors the meditative aspect of making bread, repetitively working with her hands while working to perfect the craft. She said she’s forced to apply that calculated, purposeful approach because the processes themselves are tedious and time-consuming.

“I feel like most of most of the time in the world, you’re at the mercy of time, right?” she said. “So, you’re like, constantly in a hurry, constantly trying to rush things. And when you’re doing sourdoughs or laminations, you really can’t rush it. You can try, but you’re not going to have a good product. When it comes to those two things, you’re at their time, at their mercy. So you’re bound to slow down and take in what it is that you’re doing and how you’re doing it. It can be very peaceful.”

While bread will be the star at Baked, Ramos’ first

stint as pastry pro came through the sweets she produced for her husband’s thriving barbecue spot.

Ramos’ popular cheesecakes, tres leches cake and toaster pastries have drawn almost as much attention to 2M Smokehouse as its meticulously smoked meats. She and husband Esaul strive to strike a harmonious balance, both at work and at home. It’s a relationship built on respect but with a healthy dose of fun stirred into the mix.

“Our first date was to chickenshit bingo!” Ramos said. “It was the most fun I’ve ever had on a first date.”

Ramos said she and Esaul feel a responsibility to

change the culture of the local food industry, especially when it comes to couples working together.

“Most people do know me from 2M as Esaul’s wife, you know, the barbecue wife, and I’m OK with that,” she said. “That is where I started, that’s where I got a little notoriety. So I am very proud when someone attaches me to him as a peer in this industry. I feel like I’m making my way now, and people are finally starting to see me for who I am and for what I can bring to the table other than the desserts that I’ve made these past six years. I feel like we did a great job with 2M. So this is just the beginning of another chapter for us.”

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Burger Boom

San Antonio Burger Week is back June 16-25, and it once again benefits the SA Food Bank

It’s almost time to sink your teeth into a juicy cause.

More than 30 local restaurants will fire up their grills to fight hunger during the fifth annual San Antonio Burger Week. From June 16-25, they’ll offer specialty takes on the classic American sandwich — all of which are only available for the duration of the event.

This year’s specialty burgers will run $8 to $12 with proceeds benefitting the San Antonio Food Bank as it operates its annual Summer Meals for Kids campaign. The program provides nutritious, no-cost meals for children at a time when they’re unable to access free or reduced-cost school lunches.

Every $1 donation to the Food Bank covers seven meals for local families facing food insecurity.

Returning Burger Week participants such as Benjie’s Munch and The Dogfather are offering unique takes on burgers with fresh and unexpected toppings.

Benjie’s Munch, 1218 West Bitters Road, #107, for example, will offer an adobo mushroom burger loaded with melty Swiss cheese. Meanwhile, the Pop

It Like It’s Hot Burger at The Dogfather’s two SA locations is embellished with crispy bacon, cream cheese, fried jalapeños and a ladle of queso.

“We absolutely love Burger Week and are excited to be a part of it again this year.” Benjie’s Munch chef-owner Benjamin De Los Santos said. “We can’t wait to feature our fresh new burger you can only get during this event.”

New Pearl Bottling Department popup HenBit also will take part with its spin on a smashburger. The sando will feature two Peeler Farms beef patties, American cheese, shiitake mushroom aioli, pickles, tomato and red romaine on a fresh milk bun.

This year, Burger Week has its own free app downloadable at satxburgerweek.com, which lets users up the level of their experience.

Participants will be able to check in at restaurants participating in Burger Week so they can rack up points that get them closer to a burger-centric grand prize. The app also provides a handy map plus a list of participating restaurants that can be filtered by attributes such as vegetarian, gluten-free and takeout options.

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NEWS

The Good News Burgers has shuttered its Potranco Road and San Pedro Avenue stores. The brand’s west-of-downtown location and kiosk inside North Star Mall’s food court are still open. Multiple locations, thegoodnewsburgers.com.

Cali-based Pizza Guys, operator of 60-plus West Coast stores, is eyeing Texas for major growth. The chain’s 200-location Lone Star State invasion will include 26 San Antonio-area outlets.

The Historic and Design Review Commission has approved plans for Port Royal, the new Hemisfair eatery from the owner of the Jerk Shack. Plans for the Caribbean restaurant feature construction on the historic the Schultze House, including balcony seating and a garden patio.

Southtown’s newest brunch spot Blush is now offering dinner service 4 p.m.-midnight Thursday through Saturday. 713 S. Alamo St., (210) 202-0804, blushrestaurant.com.

OPENINGS

New fast-casual American concept HenBit is now serving burgers, chicken sandwiches, shakes and salads inside the Pearl’s Bottling Department food hall. 312 Pearl Parkway, Building 6, https:// henbitaustin.com.

Brunch spot Mae Dunne is now serving breakfast eats and cocktails near the Dominion Country Club golf course. 23702 Interstate 10, Suite 108, (210) 421 8183, maedunne.com.

Künstler Brewing has opened its long-awaited taproom at Hemisfair. The spot serves up the brewery’s lighter, lower-ABV brews along with cocktails and wine. 502 S. Alamo St., (210) 6884519, kuenstlerbrewing.com.

Guerito’s Red Tacos has opened a brick-andmortar location at 9218 Potranco Road, Suite 103, on the city’s West Side. Its mobile kitchen, located at 8701 FM 1560, will remain operational. Multiple locations, gueritosredtacos.com.

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Courtesy Hemisfair Port Royal
48 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com

20 Years On

Sparta’s Jim Ward opens up about the band and his life ahead of WiretapScars anniversary tour

There’s something about the 20year mark when it comes to bands touring on album anniversaries. Ten years? Too soon for much to have changed. 30 years? The members — and the audience — have gotten old.

Sparta guitarist-vocalist Jim Ward seems to have an inherent sense of this and is using the 20th anniversary of the post-hardcore band’s debut album, Wiretap Scars, to revisit the material and ask himself what it means to him now.

A tour to mark the anniversary stops at San Antonio’s Rock Box on Friday, June 16. We caught up with Ward on Zoom in April as he readied to launch the tour.

Ward was friendly, polite and engaged, even when answering questions he’s surely answered a million times before. A neatly arranged room was visible behind him, including a shelf with horizontal stacks of books. Not great for Room Rater maybe, but a metaphor for Ward himself: what you see is what you get. No excess clutter.

This year actually marks 21 years since Wiretap Scars’ initial release. However, the original tour promoting the release went on for 18 months, Ward explains with a laugh, “so I’m counting that.”

While there’s always a sense of nostalgia in such tours, Ward said he’s not stepping into a time machine.

“This tour is me playing this record at 46. It was a huge part of my life but a complicated part of my life,” Ward said. “I’m a better guitar player now. I’m a better singer now.”

‘Un-famous guys’

Ward emerged on the national radar 30 years ago as a founding member of El Paso art punks At the Drive-In. He filled the Little Steven Van Zandt spot in the band, belting out the accessible, sing-along portions of the songs. He was something of a foil.

In contrast was Cedric Bixler-Zavala, whom Ward calls a “born frontman.” Bixler-Zavala’s high-end vocals, nearly indecipherable lyrics and cryptic-but-in-your-face performing style forged the persona of ATDI, despite Ward delivering those memorable scream-alongs.

ATDI hit it big when Relationship of Command, its breakthrough album, dropped in 2000, but by the next year, the jump to larger stages combined with long-simmering internal tensions ripped the band in two. That moment birthed both Sparta and The Mars

Volta.

Ward formed Sparta with who he called “the un-famous guys from ATDI.”

The “famous guys” from ATDI that Ward is referring to are, of course, Bixler-Zavala and prolific guitarist Omar Rodriguez-Lopez, a prolific, tortured genius type. Both helm The Mars Volta, which has gone on to tour larger venues and land top spots at summer fests.

For context, The Mars Volta packed San Antonio’s Boeing Center at Tech Port in May, while Sparta will be at the considerably smaller Rock Box.

Ward showed no ill will or animosity towards his former bandmates during the interview, noting that the passion that fuels the music can be combustible to offstage relationships.

He’s not the kind of guy to rely on nostalgia. He still puts out new music despite acknowledging that Relationship and Wiretap are the LPs for which he will be remembered.

No direct recreation

What happened to change Ward’s mind? The short and easy answer: the pandemic shifted his perspective.

A 2022 tour with fellow scene stalwarts Get Up Kids — and talking to fans on that tour — led him to realize how much Wiretap meant to people and the value of that connection, he explained.

Sparta is touring as a three-piece with bassist Matt Miller and drummer Neil Hennessy, neither of whom appeared on the original LP. Miller has been Ward’s frequent collaborator and is the only other permanent member of Sparta.

The trio won’t try to recreate every part from the record, according to Ward. Instead, they’ll be playing the record as middle-aged men engaging with the material in the present.

The original Wiretap tour used an auxiliary player as well as drum machines. Ward said the lack of these bells and whistles won’t damp the songs’ impact.

“The sing-alongs will be sung along,” he said.

Ward ended the original Sparta around 2008 or 2009 because of the typical personal differences when a band hits a certain point, explaining his decision to revive Sparta with Miller as sole collaborator.

“I lost every vote,” he said.

Exercising demons

Ward also owned a bar for a while, and now owns vegan restaurant Eloise in his hometown of El Paso, where he’s lived for years.

Speaking of the time of his life that Wiretap came into being, Ward admitted he has a lot of demons he doesn’t like to think about, things it took him years to face—particularly his drinking.

Since then, he’s done a lot of work on mental health and trying to empathize with fans, trying to understand the things they went through while listening to Wiretap Scars. Some may have fallen in love with their life partners while listening to the record, he noted.

“I don’t internalize things,” he said of himself now.

Ward said he is now at his healthiest, both physically and emotionally, and he’s ready to collaborate and connect. He’s also been with his wife for 20 years and appreciates her continued support despite putting her through hard times.

“You don’t want to destroy your family for no reason,” he said.

His new perspective has also given Ward the confidence to see a musical life that involves something other than Sparta.

“I will be in a band where I’m not the singer,” he said, looking down the road. “I have a network of people to collaborate with. I’m excited about that rather than having to be on tour.”

$26-$30, 7:30 p.m. Friday, June 16, The Rock Box, 1223 E. Houston St., (210) 772-

Reminder:

Although live events have returned, the COVID-19 pandemic is still with us. Check with venues to make sure scheduled events are still happening, and please follow all health and safety guidelines.

music
Courtesy Photo Sparta
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Like a Man Possessed

Long-running San Antonio punk band Pavel Demon and the Revenant drops new release

The students of San Antonio high school Spanish teacher and punk rock musician Pavel Demon call him “Mr. Demon” in class, and they do it with a straight face.

Demon immigrated from Mexico at the age of 8, and later, as part of becoming a naturalized citizen, had the chance to legally change his name. So, at 21, he left Pavel Martinez-Guzman behind, and Pavel Demon was born.

“I considered Pavel Evil, but when Austin Powers came out a few years later, I was glad I didn’t,” he said, laughing.

It may not be an approved school function, but Demon and his band the Revenant will perform Saturday, June 17, at Busted Sandal Brewing Co., celebrating the release of the new, four-song EP Chris The Barber, along with a recently shot video for the track “Chris.”

The Revenant’s brand of straight-ahead punk is well-worn — think Rancid or a slightly raunchier Social Distortion — but stands apart from the pack due to Demon’s storytelling style and deft use of hooks.

“It’s as if George Thorogood went punk rock,” Demon explained. “All of my songs are stories about something that directly happened to me or happened around me to someone I know well.”

Old pros

To that end, the barber of the EP title is Chris Zepeda, an actual figure in the Alamo City punk scene who markets his services as Chris the Barber. To ensure he had enough material to construct his story song, Demon even interviewed Zepeda about his work.

But the stories are just part of it. A listener doesn’t need to love punk rock to get the catchy bits from the songs on Chris The Barber stuck in their head. Both “Chris” and “Texas Summer” qualify as earworms. The spaghetti Western-style riffing on the former track even gives the title character his own mini-theme.

The adept musicality likely stems from the fact the guys in the Revenant have been around forever, plugging away at what is clearly a labor of love. The band has existed since 2004, though lineup changes have left Demon he only constant.

Drummer Vic Somberson has collaborated with Demon in assorted bands since they met via a flyer at San Antonio College circa 1994. They were members of another local punk outfit, The Drones, in the ’90s. Somberson, the original drummer for the Revenant, left the band after five years then came back in

2021, citing his long-time friendship with Demon. With three years in the band, bassist Bucky is the “new guy.”

On camera

The dedication of the Revenant’s members to their art was on full display when the Current watched the band shoot its video for “Chris.”

The shoot was to involve the group lip-syncing to the song at the Woodshed, a clean and relatively un-punk practice space tucked into a corner of Fredericksburg Road. Even though the band didn’t need to be plugged into its amplifiers, the members schlepped their heavy gear inside anyway.

“It has to look real,” Demon explained with a shrug.

The band has never done a lip sync before, and as silly as it all appears to a group used to expressing itself in a stripped-down, authentic manner they appeared dedicated to making it work.

Even so, Bucky provided intermittent commentary about the weirdness of miming along to a backing

track.

“I need a fake beer,” he deadpanned.

The first few takes were a little rough. The track wasn’t playing loudly enough, making it hard for Demon to know whether he was actually mouthing along in time. Somberson’s fake cymbal crashes looked just like what they were: fake.

“Let’s just crank it up,” Demon finally said.

With the track now turned up loud enough to blow innocent bystanders into the next room, the band was suddenly on. The members mimed along with the track a handful of times with pauses for the directors to move the cameras to get shots from varying angles.

It all seems to come together as part of a band-asgang mythos that draws from some of the punkest forebears a band could have: the Ramones.

In the end, it’s a wrap, and Chris the Barber himself even puts in an appearance in the video. To Demon’s point, it’s all in service of the story and the song.

$5, 8 p.m. Saturday, June 17, Busted Sandal Brewing Co., 7114 Oaklawn Drive, (210) 872-1486, bustedsandalbrewing.com

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Courtesy Photo Pavel Demon and the Revenant
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critics’ picks

José James

Wednesday, June 14

Liliac

A self-described “first family of rock,” the band Liliac is comprised of five siblings who honed their craft performing on the Santa Monica Pier under the direction of their dad, who serves as both their manager and producer. Liliac garnered fame through impressive covers of ’80s FM rock staples including “Rainbow in the Dark” and “The Trooper,” which led to TV appearances such as America’s Got Talent and a 2019 album release. $20-$150, 8:30 p.m., Sam’s Burger Joint, 330 E. Grayson St., (210) 223-2830, samsburgerjoint.com. — Danny Cervantes

José James

Singer José James may blur genres, but his current On & On: José James Sings Badu tour will clearly keep the singer focused: specifically on the music of R&B superstar Erykah Badu. Known for an innovative mix of jazz, hip-hop and neo-soul, the Minneapolis-born James has previously devoted an entire album to Billie Holiday, though he’s also known for original material. $29.50-$39.50, 7:30 p.m., The Espee, 1174 E. Commerce St, (210) 226-5700, majesticempire.com. — Mike McMahan

Friday, June 16

iLa Minori, Cuerdas, Kassandra Ayala

The hometown tour kickoff for San Antonio indie-synth artist iLa Minori also marks the release of her sophomore album Convince Me. Thanks to a melancholy approach not unlike that of ’90s indie-rock artists such as Mazzy Star, iLa Minori possesses a dreamy, psych-folk sound laced with bits of synthwave. Support comes from Las Cruces, New Mexico-based instrumental band Cuerdas and SA-based Kassandra Ayala, who makes sweet and sparse acoustic tracks in both Spanish and English. $20, 7 p.m., Slab Cinema Arthouse, 154 Blue Star, (210) 212-9373, slabcinemaarthouse.com. — Dalia Gulca

Saturday, June 17

Tanya Tucker

Patti LaBelle

The “Godmother of Soul” may be 79, but she can still bring it. The singer got her start as a part of LaBelle, the group behind 1974 megahit “Lady Marmalade.” As a solo artist, she went on to win two Grammys in the ’90s for the classic R&B albums Live! One Night Only and Burnin’. LaBelle’s also a gay icon performing during Pride Month, which can only add to the celebratory vibe of the evening. $59.50-$345, 8 p.m., Majestic Theatre, 224 E. Houston St., (210) 226-3333, majesticempire.com. — MM

Thursday, June 22

Buttercup, The Deathray Davies, Salim Nourallah San Antonio art-rock darlings Buttercup have been making music in this city for the past 20 years, and it looks like they have no intention of slowing down. Exploring soft but arty rock in the vein of Elliot Smith and Death Cab for Cutie, the band has released seven albums, each with its own distinct charms. Also on the bill are two Dallas-based artists: The Deathray Davies, who specialize in catchy garage pop, and Salim Nourallah, known for his folksy indie rock. $17-20, 8 p.m., The Lonesome Rose, 2114 N. St. Mary’s St., (210) 455-0233, thelonesomerose.com. — DG

Friday, June 23

Thursday, He Is Legend, Greyhaven, RMRS Post-hardcore legends Thursday will warm up for an appearance at So What?! Fest in Dallas with a considerably smaller show in SA. The festival appearance is billed as a complete performance of the band’s classic LP War All The Time, now celebrating its 21st birthday. Thursday hasn’t said what it has in store for the Tiger, but much or all of War seems like a no-brainer. Though Full Collapse may be its most beloved, War placed the band in a bigger pond due to Thursday’s decision — hugely controversial at the time — to sign to major label Island Records. Expect a lot of scream-alongs. $30, 7 p.m., Paper Tiger, 2410 N. St. Mary’s St., papertigersatx.com. — Mike McMahan

Dirty Heads, Yelawolf, G. Love & Special Sauce, Tropidelic

The eclectic SoCal mix of hip-hop, reggae and rock that embodies Dirty Heads seems like a perfect fit for an outdoor show next to the Guadalupe River. Formed in 2001, the band was propelled to international stardom when its then-four-year-old single “Vacation” went viral on TikTok in 2021. The group built on that success with the release of Midnight Control in 2022, anchored by a cover of Joe Walsh’s “Life’s Been Good.” Rapper Yelawolf and fellow good-vibes staple G. Love & Special Sauce make solid openers. $35-$114.50, 6 p.m., Whitewater Amphitheater, 11860 FM 306, New Braunfels, (830) 964-3800, whitewaterrocks.com. — DC

Saturday, June 24

Tanya Tucker

County icon Tanya Tucker came into success during the early ’70s as a teen singing sensation, and by the end of the decade she’d embraced the “outlaw” label. Although she spent much of the ’80s in seclusion, she eventually launched a fierce comeback that repeatedly put her at the top of the mainstream country charts. Her latest album, Sweet Western Sound, sticks with the rootsy approach of her acclaimed 2019 release While I’m Livin’. On this tour, she’s mixing songs from the new record with her well-known hits. $36-$151, 8 p.m., John T. Floore’s Country Store, 14492 Old Bandera Road, Helotes, (210) 695-8827, liveatfloores.com. — MM

Tuesday, June 27

Nascar Aloe, Deathproof Inc.

The caustic combo of hip-hop and punk merge in Nascar Aloe’s unique sound. Born in North Carolina and raised on his father’s jazz and R&B sensibilities, the rapper smashes genre barriers on his new EP HEY ASSHOLE! Independent artist collective Deathproof Inc. will bring a post-punk edge.  $18-$20, 7 p.m., Vibes Event Center, 1223 E. Houston St., (210) 255-3833, facebook. com/vibeseventcenter. — DC

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Shutterstock / Sterling Munksgard Shutterstock / Lev Radin

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54 CURRENT | June 14 – 27, 2023 | sacurrent.com
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