FOOD & DRINK
A variety of dishes at Pho Lang Thang P H OTO : H A I L E Y B O L L I N G E R
Findlay Market Features Nationally Lauded Food and Drink CityBeat dining critic Pama Mitchell explores Over-the-Rhine’s surprising variety BY PA M A M IT C H E L L
I
remember when Newsweek named Findlay Market as one of the ten best markets in the whole world. That was in 2019, and Findlay was the only U.S. market to make the list. We knew the market was special, and it was terrific to see this acknowledgment. The market has blossomed so much in recent years that the surrounding neighborhood has boomed, too. Along with the development of new apartments, condos and commercial buildings, the area has experienced a remarkable expansion of dining options.
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For starters, Findlay occupies the only area of Cincinnati with restaurants owned by Cincinnati’s two superstar chefs, Jean-Robert de Cavel and Jose Salazar. De Cavel’s French Crust and Salazar’s Goose & Elder both hit a sweet spot of being perfect for the Over-theRhine neighborhood and a draw for folks from the entire region. At a recent Sunday brunch at French Crust (1801 Elm St., frenchcrustcafe. com), we enjoyed a meal that featured one scrumptious dish after another. We had six in our party, and every item laid on our table was completely satisfying
MAY 4, 2022 - MAY 17, 2022
– and that was without any of us ordering the best-in-the-city quiche. De Cavel’s private collection of framed posters and other decorations express his personality and create a spot-on Parisian bistro ambiance. Chef de cuisine Carla Heiert creates omelets, soups, salads and casseroles that complement the glorious croissants and sweets of pastry chef Jean-Philippe Solnom. I adore the quiche Lorraine and don’t usually resist it. But at this recent brunch, I discovered the “Le Creuset” casseroles. My salmon casserole with tomato, corn kernels, shiitake mushrooms and a creamy lemon sauce was wonderful, as was my friend’s steak casserole with potatoes, carrots, peas and a demi-glace (each $16). The lemon sauce on the salmon dish couldn’t have been more delightful. At the opposite end of the market sits Goose & Elder (1800 Race St., gooseandelder.com). While French Crust opened almost 10 years ago, G & E has only been around since 2019. It was one of my favorite spots for carryout during the first year of COVID-19. With front and back rooms and several outdoor seating possibilities, the restaurant felt
spacious enough to patronize last year when we started going back to in-house dining. Serving from late morning until 9 p.m. or 10 p.m. every day except Tuesday, Goose & Elder excels at a variety of offerings. I can never get enough of the duck leg confit with grits and baconbraised greens ($19). Lighter, wonderful options include a veggie burger based on falafel ($11.75) and avocado toast perked up with jalapeno and sliced radishes ($12.25). You can’t go wrong with the burger and fries, either ($8.50 for a single patty; $12.50 for a double). The back room with a bar and well-spaced tables is a welcome place to linger, while the front dining room is livelier. Pho Lang Thang (1828 Race St., pholangthang.com) completes a triumvirate of truly outstanding restaurants adjacent to Findlay Market. If fragrant, savory and vegetable-forward Vietnamese cooking rings your bells, this establishment down the block from Goose & Elder has you covered. The restaurant quickly outgrew its original location inside the market several years ago, moving into a roomier spot across Race Street in 2019. Two COVID years later,
