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Decibel Korean Fried Chicken offers chicken wings, tenders and drumsticks.

PHOTO: FACEBOOK.COM/ DECIBELCHICKEN

Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner

Walnut Hills’ Decibel Korean Fried Chicken is the rst to bring the twice-fried style to Cincinnati

REVIEW BY LEYLA SHOKOOHE

From humble beginnings come great things — especially when we’re talking about Decibel Korean Fried Chicken.

Brought to Cincinnati by the crew behind Dope! Asian Street Food, Decibel is the city’s rst Korean fried chicken joint. e out t now has a storefront location in Walnut Hills, adjacent to Esoteric Brewing, but Decibel launched in 2021 as an unnamed fried chicken pop-up in the Kroger On the Rhine food court, where the Dope! stall already was seeing great success.

Decibel got its start when Dope! owner and founder Kam Siu, who also runs Asian food supplier Panda Trading Company, and operating partner Mapi De Veyra, the former executive chef at Quan Hapa, were planning to expand Dope!. Fortunately for chicken lovers, they decided the storefront they were looking at should be used for a di erent concept.

“When we saw the space (in Walnut Hills), we both looked at each other, and said, ‘Fried chicken. Korean,’” Siu says. “And then we put our heads together and really worked on the recipe, the execution side, what the operation looked like, and then we started putting all the pieces together.”

Dope! had expanded rapidly since opening at Kroger in 2019, adding a second Kroger location in Anderson and opening a standalone restaurant in Hyde Park last year. Kroger approached Siu and his team in early spring 2021 and asked if they’d be interested in taking over an additional stall in the On the Rhine food hall.

“We said sure, let’s take the Korean fried chicken concept and let’s do a pop-up and see what happens,” Siu says. “So while Walnut Hills was being built out, we did the pop-up and it was a huge success. We thought, ‘We have something really good so let’s just keep it going but re ne the process.’”

For the uninitiated, Korean fried chicken is an airier, crispier iteration of Southern-style fried chicken. Gone are the browned crunchy bits that stud American fried chicken; instead, Korean fried chicken is sheathed in a lightly golden-brown crust. Biting into Korean fried chicken might be best described as shattering that crust, and the crunch is outrageous. e chicken remains juicy, and the simplicity of the batter is a great complement.

“Korean fried chicken is a twice-fried chicken (with) a very nice and thin airy batter, very crispy,” De Veyra says. “Just like your traditional American chicken wings, it’s tossed in sauce. Even tossed in sauce, you still get that crunch.”

Korean fried chicken isn’t a new trend. In Korea, it’s often consumed as a street or bar food, and in that way continues the Dope! tradition of incorporating world street foods into its culinary repertoire — as its “Asian Street Food” moniker would suggest.

When you arrive at Decibel in Walnut Hills, there’s a takeaway entrance and window in addition to a dine-in window. e dine-in window is located inside Esoteric Brewing, which itself is housed within the larger and recently renovated Paramount Building.

Now, you can get the same o erings at this Decibel as you can at the Kroger On the Rhine food hall — various iterations of Korean fried chicken and other fried items. On Sundays, though, something magical happens here — brunch, which began in January.

“We have an ube chicken wa e,

Order from a walk-up window at Decibel’s Walnut Hills location.

PHOTO: FACEBOOK.COM/DECIBELCHICKEN

which is this Filipino taro-like avor,” De Veyra says. “We have kimchi fried rice with Spam, and we have Korean street toast. ere’s an omelet in there, with cabbage and carrots, and then there’s ham and American cheese.”

On a recent visit to Decibel, my boyfriend and I ordered each of the things De Veyra listed. We also tried the wa e fries, which I highly recommend ordering with every meal at either Decibel location. e fries were done to perfection, liberally showered in “Decibel seasoning,” which is a savory melange of avors. ey were served with “ y sauce,” a tangy, creamy aioli and ketchup mixture. e ube wa e was the coolest, in part because of its color. Ube, or purple yam, is mixed into the batter, and the wa e arrived crispy and golden on the outside, with a pillowy, chewy and vibrant violet interior. e wa e was dusted in powdered sugar and served with two Korean fried chicken tenders dipped in y sauce, with syrup on the side. Next time, I would avoid the syrup drizzle — it made the airy wa e a little soggy — but the crunch of the tenders next to the soft ube goodness was just *insert chef’s kiss*. e Korean street toast was served as a hefty, saucy sandwich that we split, and the kimchi fried rice was topped with a beautifully fried egg and served with a side of crispy, airy home fries. ( ey’ve been used a lot, but those two particular adjectives, “crispy” and “airy,” are inextricable from the Decibel experience.) I’ve not had a more lling and gratifying brunch experience in a hot minute.

I also took a solo venture to the Kroger On the Rhine Decibel location during a workday lunch break, and my trek there was equally pleasurable. I got my order to-go, and when I returned to my o ce to shovel the chicken tenders into my mouth, I was delighted by how many wa e fries were packed in the order.

I also ordered the cured cucumbers, which had taken a bath in gochujang (a sweet-and-spicy chili paste), sesame and soy vinaigrette. Next time, I want to try a Korean fried corn dog, which vegetarians can order as a Korean fried mozzarella stick. e raison d’etre for all of this is the Korean fried chicken itself, which can be ordered as wings, tenders or drumsticks. Select a sauce — dry spiced, garlic soy, gochujang barbecue or simply spicy — and how much sauce you want, depending on the type of chicken you order (vegetarians can swap Korean fried cauli ower for the chicken). Decibel also caters to its Catholic-heavy Cincinnati base by o ering two Lenten specials: sh and chips as well as a sh sandwich.

“I think it’s about timing,” De Veyra says. “When Kam and I walked into that spot, right beside a brewery, we were like, ‘Fried chicken. at’s it.’ You know? How can we make it di erent? It’s always about being ahead of the game. Being the rst Korean fried chicken in Cincinnati is huge, and now we have two locations.”

Decibel Korean Fried Chicken

has locations at 922 E McMillan St., Walnut Hills and Kroger On the Rhine, 100 E Court St., Downtown. More info: decibelchicken.com.

Brunch options include an ube waffle, Korean street toast and kimchi fried rice.

PHOTO: FACEBOOK.COM/DECIBELCHICKEN

THE DISH Recent Greater Cincinnati Restaurant Openings and Closings

BY CITYBEAT STAFF

Openings

La Cantina

e former Cheapside Cafe space downtown has gotten new life thanks to local Crown Restaurant Group (Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti, Rosie’s Cocktails & Pies). It is now home to La Cantina, a restaurant o ering a self-described mix of “contemporary, authentic Mexican cuisine and cocktails.”

Chef Johnny Curiel, recently the executive chef at Nada, is bringing his years of experience and “modernmeets-authentic” Mexican style to the new restaurant.

La Cantina started as a pop-up at Crown Republic Gastropub in July of last year, with Curiel and CRG’s chef/ owner Anthony Sitek at the helm. e menu there featured dishes including elote, Baja sh tacos and chicken mole, and the full restaurant o ers similar inspiration.

La Cantina currently lists dishes including tacos with llings ranging from pastor or lamb barbacoa to smoked prime brisket or sweet potato. Starters run the gamut from mesquite cold-smoked tuna crudo and grilled oysters to queso fundido. Mains include carne asada, chicken mole and enchiladas verdes. e cocktail program focuses on mezcal and tequila, featuring more than 50 agave-based spirits. La Cantina also carries Mexican coke, Topo Chico and horchata. 326 E. Eighth St., Downtown, crowncantina.com.

Son of a Butcher

e team behind Agave & Rye seems to have conquered the eccentric taco world and has now set its sights on steakhouses. e company’s new Son of a Butcher — colloquially referred to as S.O.B. — opened March 1 at Shindig Park, an event space in Liberty Center also helmed by the Agave & Rye team.

Yavonne Sarber, founder of S.O.B. and Agave & Rye, tells CityBeat via email that the new restaurant is “evolving the stu y steakhouse into something magical.”

“S.O.B o ers everything guests would expect from a high-quality steakhouse, without the white tablecloths, pretentious service and boring atmosphere,” she says.

Sarber says the look of S.O.B. plays o the same ethos of the Alice-inWonderland-meets-Baroque design of the Agave & Rye locations.

“We call it a ‘Southern Rock Tattoo style,’” she says. “Beautiful, custom chandeliers. Same artists (as Agave & Rye), di erent are. Same culture and core values.”

Sarber says the menu features “something for everyone,” highlighting USDA Prime cuts, wagyu, caviar, shaved tru es and “gold leaf options.” ere is a sweet and spicy bacon and blue cheese burger, a New York-style Italian sandwich on a baguette and a let mignon chopped salad. For vegetarians, look for cauli ower steaks and black tru e gnocchi.

S.O.B. is launching with dinner service, but there are plans to expand into brunch o erings as well. 7630 Gibson St., Liberty Township, sobsteakhouse.com.

Woodburn Brewing Kitchen

Woodburn Brewing has added some bites to go with its beer. e East Walnut Hills taproom and brewery is now home to a new kitchen, helmed by chef Andrew Han. Han — who has done stints in notable local eateries including Senate, Pepp & Dolores and O Pie O — has drawn on his Korean heritage for the menu.

“I’m extremely grateful for the opportunity to open up the Woodburn kitchen,” Han says in a release. “I had a lot of fun developing the menu with my team and incorporating my favorite childhood avors into easily recognizable dishes.” e menu features fusion-style dishes like a steak bowl with jasmine rice, golden curry, marinated egg, pickled carrots and red onion, and a “Toadstool Sandwich,” with soy-andginger-marinated mushrooms, topped with mayo and gochujang slaw. ere are also wings, nachos, pork rinds (with Grippo’s seasoning), salads, burgers and more.

A release says Woodburn Brewing eventually will add a weekly brunch menu as well as a “late-night menu to satisfy those midnight munchies.” 2800 Woodburn Ave., East Walnuts Hills, woodburnbrewing.com.

BBQ High Life

Oakley Kitchen Food Hall welcomed a new barbecue spot, BBQ High Life, on March 1. Previously based in Goshen, High Life o ered carry-out and catering services. Its new menu at the Oakley Kitchen consists of six signature sandwiches and four classic barbecue side options. e eatery serves everything from a classic pulled-pork sandwich to the “Big Red Smokey,” which is made with split andouille sausage and topped with

La Cantina

PHOTO: HAILEY BOLLINGER

Son of a Butcher

PHOTO: PROVIDED BY AGAVE & RYE

pulled pork and coleslaw. 3715 Madison Road, Oakley, oakley-kitchen.com.

e Arepa Place

Findlay Market favorite e Arepa Place has opened a storefront in the suburb of Wyoming, with its grand opening held Feb. 24.

Arepa Place started as a pop-up specializing in arepas at Over-theRhine’s Findlay Market in 2016, before expanding into a full storefront there. e new location takes over the space formerly occupied by CWC, the Restaurant.

Drawing on her Colombian heritage, owner Isis Arrieta-Dennis says the Arepa Place in Wyoming features the same fast-casual dining style guests experience at the Findlay Market location. 1517 Spring eld Pike, Wyoming, arepaplace.com.

Paris Baguette

A national bakery cafe chain is opening its rst Ohio location in Cincinnati.

Paris Baguette has more than 90 storefronts across the country, and its newest one is set to open inside 3CDC’s recent 4th & Race development.

Cincinnati restaurateur Ai Lin of Sichuan Chili and Gyu-Kaku BBQ will own and operate the new location, per a press release from 3CDC.

According to 3CDC, Lin came across Paris Baguette while visiting her mother in Flushing, Queens, where she is originally from. ere are three locations just in that neighborhood alone, so she was inspired to bring Paris Baguette to Cincinnati.

“If I believe in the concept, I want to open one,” Lin says in the release. “I saw the potential here.”

Paris Baguette is based in South

Boombox Buns

PHOTO: HAILEY BOLLINGER

Korea and the company’s vision, according to its website, is “to reestablish the neighborhood bakery cafe as the heart of the community around the world.”

Looking at the store locator, most of the U.S. locations are on the East and West coasts, with a few in Chicago, Detroit, Atlanta and Dallas.

Cincinnatians will be able to grab sweet and savory items at Paris Baguette, including breads, seasonal desserts, cakes, salads and sandwiches.

An o cial opening date has not been announced. 124 W. Fourth St., Downtown, parisbaguette.com.

Closings

Enoteca Emilia

Loveland-based Italian eatery Enoteca Emilia has closed — but it appears there are new plans in the works.

In a post on Facebook, owner Margaret Ranalli said the pandemic forced the restaurant to restrict its hours to ensure the same standards and hospitality Enoteca Emilia was known for, noting she is “grateful beyond measure” for the sta and guests.

“As Spring approaches, we are preparing for a re-birth with an entirely new concept and menu,” her post continues. “De ning our path forward with the same commitment to avor and hospitality, we must also respect a post-COVID industry landscape. Look for a concept reveal in mid-March and a relaunch coming late Spring.”

Originally located in O’Bryonville, Enoteca Emilia closed in 2016 and then reopened in Loveland in 2019. 110 S. Second St., Loveland, facebook.com/ enotecaemilia.

Boombox Buns

Over-the-Rhine’s source for homemade Chinese-style steamed buns, Boombox Buns, has closed. Owner Nathan Friday announced in a social media post that the shop would close Feb. 19.

“It’s hard to express the emotions of letting go of something that has been such a dominating force in your life,” his post reads.

Friday says he and his ancée, Katie, have been working together on Boombox Buns for four and a half years. “ e process of taking an idea from something on paper to a pop up, a pop up to signing a lease and hiring employees, to navigating a pandemic has been a wild ride,” he writes.

Friday made his debut as a restaurateur when he opened Boombox Buns for weekend-only, walk-upwindow business on Woodward Street in an empty space behind e Takeaway Deli and Grocery in the fall of 2018. And in 2020, he opened the brickand-mortar on Republic Street.

“Lastly I would like to thank all of our customers and sta both past and present for supporting us every step of the way,” the post continues.

e Mercer OTR

Per a note hung in the restaurant’s window in early February, the Mercer OTR has quietly closed its doors. e sign announcing the restaurant’s closure reads, “It’s been a pleasure serving you, OTR. Cheers.” e owners did not make an announcement or provide a reason for the closure and shut down the restaurant’s Facebook page and website. e restaurant, which was on the ground oor of the Mercer Commons apartment complex, had been in operation since 2014.

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