COVER

CODAND GOD

CINCINNATI’S FISH FRYS ARE BIGGER AND BETTER THAN EVER.

Roughly 73% of adults in Ohio identify as Christian, and 18% of those consider themselves Catholic, according to a Pew Research Center survey from 2014.

And one may wonder if all 18% of those Catholics reside in the Greater Cincinnati area, especially during Lent, when sh fry hysteria descends upon the city.

In Christianity — and speci cally Catholicism — Lent is a religious observance that takes place between Ash Wednesday and Easter. It honors the 40 days and nights that Jesus spent wandering the desert, fasting, praying and enduring various tests and temptations from Satan before he was cruci ed and resurrected.

Christians mimic Jesus’ earthly trials by giving up something of luxury for 40 days, typically chocolate or soda or alcohol. Catholics also forgo eating meat on Fridays during Lent. It represents both an act of abstinence and also sort of ties into Jesus’ sacri ce on the cross — he gave up his esh on a Friday (aka “Good Friday,” the not-so-good day he was cruci ed), so no esh for Catholics. (Church doctrine actually prohibited Catholics from eating meat every Friday of the year until the guidance was amended in 1966.)

And this is why Cincinnati smells like deep-fried cod for six Fridays each spring. is year’s sh frys are particularly exciting for locals, as many are returning to in-person dining after taking two years o or doing only carry-out due to the pandemic.

One example is the Mary, Queen of Heaven (MQH) sh fry in Erlanger, Kentucky. is is one of the area’s favorite sh frys (CityBeat once named it one of the 101 things every Cincinnatian must do), in part because of the existence of its “Codfather” mascot. e Codfather is the alter ego of John Geisen, the CEO of local deli chain Izzy’s and a member of MQH’s parish. Each year, Geisen dresses up in ma oso gear, grabs a plush stu ed sh and heads to the fry to do meet-and-greets, take photos and emcee various games and trivia while parishioners and general sh fans eat. Like most sh frys, proceeds from this event bene t the church and its associated school.

Geisen became involved with MQH after they asked him to use his restaurant experience with Izzy’s to revamp their Lenten tradition.

“I was a member of Mary, Queen of Heaven parish and I got to be good friends with the pastor. And he said, you know, they used to have a sh fry out here but it stopped for a couple years,” Geisen says. “He said what would you think about starting it back up? And I said, well, I don't know a lot about sh frys, but I do have some food experience. Let’s get a group of people together and see what we can do.”

So Geisen applied his restaurant knowledge to the sh fry format.

“I knew good sh, I knew good bread and good tartar sauce,” he says.

MQH’s menu items center around Atlantic cod, Geisen says, which — while frozen — does feature a special batter for deep frying. ere’s a cod sh or a “Holy Haddock” option, both of which come as a platter or sandwich with french fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce. e baked cod comes with new potatoes, green beans and coleslaw. e sh and chips meal features beer-battered cod strips. ere’s also fried butter y shrimp, a grilled cheese, breadsticks, dessert and beer for sale.

“A good cod sandwich and an ice-cold beer sort of goes hand-inhand,” Geisen says.

Within a couple of years, Geisen says MQH was recognized by local media as having the best sh fry in Greater Cincinnati. And as word-ofmouth spread, other local parishes started reaching out to him for advice.

“I thought, you know what, this is a great fundraiser for the parish or for the organization that might put it on,” he says. “I'm not going to hide anything, everybody ought to be able to bene t from this.”

And a visit to another local church helped cement his sh-fry-icon status.

“I remember going into one parish in Cincinnati, I can't recall the name of it, but as I walked into the group this one guy said, ‘Oh, my golly, here comes the Codfather,’” Geisen says.

He liked the name and began building a persona o of it.

“I went and put a suit on — a gangster suit — and held my son’s pillow, which is a big sh, and (a professional photographer at MQH) took some pictures of it, put it out to the media and then it blew up.”

Geisen says the Codfather originated around 2005 or 2007 and was fully embraced by MQH.

“I’d walk around during the sh frys with my costume and I got a reputation, and it’s multiplied ever since then. People come in from literally all over to see the Codfather, as weird as that might sound,” Geisen says. “I'm kind of a ham anyway, so the more cameras and exposure we get, I feel like a movie star, so it's great.”

He says 10 to 20 people a night ask for a photo with him; some even want him to autograph their menus.

Nowadays, the fry — which o ers dine-in, carry-out and drive-thru this year — “does more (business) in four hours than a Chick- l-A does all day,” Geisen says.

He says the drive-thru sees about 200 cars a night and the parish can seat roughly 400 people at a time inside. A team of volunteers handles everything from taking and processing orders to cooking the food and more. A special computer system helps eld online orders directly to the kitchen for a streamlined carry-out process.

“ ese people put their heart and love into it,” Geisen says of the MQH volunteers. “Everybody’s striving for the same thing — to put out a great product, good service and to bene t the kids at the school.”

And MQH isn’t the only sh fry Geisen is a part of. Izzy’s also features a Codfather sandwich on Fridays during Lent.

“We don't call it sh, we call it cod. It's too good to be called sh. Just teasing,” Geisen says of the Izzy’s sh. e sandwich features organic Atlantic cod from the cold waters around Greenland. Geisen says the temperature gives the sh “a little bit better avor and akiness. It has a little sweetness to it.” It’s then breaded, deep-fried in vegetable shortening and sandwiched on a brioche bun with tartar sauce and Izzy’s famous pickles.

And while the MQH sandwich isn’t the exact same as his Izzy’s Codfather, Geisen says there’s “no doubt in his mind” his parish’s sh fry is the best in town.

Not everyone in Cincinnati is Catholic (obviously), but Geisen says sh frys appeal to anyone of any background for the food as well as the festive and charitable atmosphere. With Geisen’s Codfather persona, one could also add joy to that list.

“ at's what it's all about,” Geisen says. “Bringing community together and everybody having a little bit of fun, especially in today's world, where it's so much turmoil.”

ask for a photo with him; some even want him to autograph their menus.

Nowadays, the fry — which o ers dine-in, carry-out and drive-thru this year — “does more (business) in four hours roughly 400 people at a time inside. A team of volunteers handles everything from taking and processing orders to cooking the food and more. A special computer system helps eld online orders directly to the kitchen for a

The Mary, Queen of Heaven fi sh fry runs 4-8 p.m. Fridays through April 8. The parish is located at 1150 Donaldson Highway, Erlanger. Get more info or order online at mqhparish.com. Izzy’s Codfather sandwich is available on Fridays at all locations. Learn more or nd a restaurant near you at izzys.com.

McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich

PHOTO: COURTESY PORTER NOVELLI PR

The McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish Sandwich Has Cincinnati Roots

BY MAGGY MCDONEL

Did you know that the McDonald’s Lent- and pescatarian-friendly Filet-O-Fish sandwich was invented in Cincinnati?

The year was 1962 and Lou Groen owned and operated the rst McDonald’s location in Ohio; it is still open today in Cincinnati’s Monfort Heights neighborhood. Groen’s granddaughter Erica (Groen) Shadoin, who now owns the location, told CityBeat that her grandfather noticed that his sales were lower on Fridays during Lent.

Trying to compete with the Frisch’s sh sandwich and knowing that Cincinnatians still wanted their McDonald’s but were bound by a religious obligation to not eat meat on Fridays, Groen devised a plan to sell breaded halibut sandwiches. Erica says her grandfather worked endlessly to develop his own batter and tartar sauce to make the perfect sh sandwich.

At that time, Groen took trips to Chicago to visit McDonald’s founder Ray Kroc, whom Erica says was not super jazzed about the idea of having a sh sandwich on the menu. Kroc reportedly told Groen that cooking sh tends to be trickier than cooking beef or chicken, but Groen didn’t stop pushing because he knew the Filet-O-Fish was a winner.

“My grandfather was persistent,” Erica says.

At the same time as Groen’s invention, Kroc had the idea for a sandwich with a slice of grilled pineapple and cheese on a bun he called the Hula Burger. He was so con dent in his Hula Burger idea that he bet Groen it would outsell the Filet-O-Fish. They picked a few restaurants on a speci c Friday to sell both sandwiches and the winner would get a spot on the regular menu.

“Let’s just say it wasn’t even close,” Erica says of the Filet-O-Fish’s win.

The Filet-O-Fish was added to the fast-food

John Geisen (center) as the Codfather at the Mary, Queen of Heaven sh fry

PHOTO: PROVIDED BY MARY, QUEEN OF HEAVEN

21 Must-Try Fish Frys

Looking for more sh frys than just Mary, Queen of Heaven’s? Churches, restaurants and organizations are all getting in on the Lenten action this year. Events accept di erent forms of payment, so bring both cash and credit if you’re unsure.

American Legion Post #318

Dinners include your choice of fried or baked sh, shrimp or chicken tenders, served with a side of french fries and one other side of your choice. Homemade desserts are also available. Soft drinks are available for purchase, as is beer and wine. Patriot Center, 6660 Clough Pike, Anderson, post318.org.

Dates: 5-7 p.m. Fridays March 4 -April 15.

What to order: A fried cod let sandwich on rye, and upgrade to a side of macaroni and cheese.

Germania Society

e Germania Society Klubhaus reopens for its 2022 Lenten sh fry, o ering a full menu complete with sh dinners, sandwiches, New England clam chowder, cheese pizza and sides ranging from baked macaroni and cheese to collard greens and french fries. e Klubhaus dine-in bar will be open during the festivities, and the event o ers drive-thru beer and wine for those on the go. An 8-ounce sh dinner with two sides, cornbread and dessert will run you $16. e featured sh will either be cod or orange roughy, depending on the supply chain. Germania Park, 3529 W. Kemper Road, Colerain Township, germaniasociety.com.

Dates: 5-8 p.m. Fridays through April 8; drive-thru closes at 7:30 p.m.

What to order: Whatever you order, get a side of the cult-favorite homemade tartar sauce.

Guardian Angels Parish

Guardian Angels Parish is hosting a drive-thru sh fry every Friday during Lent, excluding Good Friday (April 15). e menu includes sh sandwiches, shrimp, crab cakes and sides ranging from onion rings and hush puppies to mozzarella sticks. ere will also be pizza from LaRosa’s and coleslaw from Raising Cane’s. e parish is o ering select dine-in events in the undercroft, including alumni night on March 11 for the grads of Guardian Angels School and their families and a March Madness viewing party on March 18. 6539 Beechmont Ave., Mt. Washington, gaparish.org.

Dates: 5-7 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: Veering o track from traditional sides, Guardian Angels also o ers fried pickle chips and jalapeno poppers.

Immaculate Heart of Mary

is year, IHM is doing dine-in, carry-out and drive-thru for its sh fry, and there are plenty of options to try. ere’s a hand-breaded fried or baked cod platter, a shrimp platter, crab cake platter, whole pizzas, grilled cheese and combos that blend the best of both worlds (aka sh and shrimp or sh and crab cakes). Sides include a from-scratch mac and cheese. 5876 Veterans Way, Burlington, facebook.com/ ihm shfryburlingtonky.

Dates: 4:30-7:30 p.m. drive-thru and 5-8 p.m. dinein and carry-out Fridays through April 8.

What to order: e famed Tommy Boy platter: fried cod inside a grilled cheese sandwich with your choice of two sides.

Kolping Society

e Kolping Society is o ering a drive-thru sh fry Fridays during Lent, except for Good Friday. Guests can choose a fried or baked sh or shrimp dinner for $12 and $13, respectively. Bottled German beer is also available to-go with sh fry dinners for $5 per bottle. A Graeter’s Ice Cream truck will also be on hand on April 8. 10235 W. Mill Road, Mt. Healthy, facebook.com/ kolpingcincinnati.

Dates: 5:30-7:30 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: A Warsteiner pilsner, Paulaner dunkel or a Hofbräu dunkel (or original) to drink at home with your fried sh.

Lehr’s Prime Market

Every Friday during Lent, Lehr's hosts a sh fry featuring a haddock sandwich basket (beer-battered haddock on marble rye with tartar sauce) and a la carte options like hush puppies and creamy coleslaw. 740 Main St., Milford, lehrsprime.com.

Dates: Noon-7:30 p.m. Fridays during Lent.

What to order: Make sure to accompany your bigger-than-the-bread fried haddock with a side of hush puppies and special “puppy sauce.”

Nation Kitchen & Bar’s fried haddock sandwich

PHOTO: PROVIDED BY NATION KITCHEN & BAR

Nation Kitchen & Bar

Nation Kitchen & Bar is expanding sh fry Friday to a daily o ering with its giant 8.5-ounce fried haddock sandwich. e monster meal, which costs $15, comes with saratoga chips. And you can feel good while eating good, as $1 from each sh sandwich order will bene t St Aloysius' after-school programs. 1200 Broadway St., Pendleton; 3435 Epworth Ave., Westwood.

Dates: Available for lunch and dinner daily in March.

What to order: at big ol’ haddock sandwich.

Nine Giant

Nine Giant is bringing back it super-popular Friday sh fry. Chefs at the Brewpub will be panko-crusting and frying their sh, serving up the results with a side of fries, samal ketchup and remoulade. Available primarily for dine-in and in-person carry-out ordering, the eatery is also attempting online ordering but will turn it o if it gets too busy. 6095 Montgomery Road, Pleasant Ridge, ninegiant.com.

Dates: Fridays during Lent; the Brewpub opens at 11:30 a.m.

What to order: While you wait for a table at the

Brewpub, hop over to the next-door Fermentorium.

You can order carry-out from the bar there while sipping on the new Brainfreeze Cold IPA.

Newport Elks Lodge #273

Grab this sh fry for dine-in or carry-out. Each dinner includes your choice of protein, bread, coleslaw and a side. Here’s where things get interesting: there’s both seafood and meat (obviously not Lent-friendly, but great for those who are hungry and aren’t observing the holiday). Opt for sh, chicken, steak or shrimp. ere also are single and double hamburgers and cheeseburgers, steak sandwiches, chicken ngers and sides. 3704 Alexandria Pike, Cold Spring, newportelks273.com.

Dates: 4-7:30 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: e “ sh set-up” is $12 and includes a piece of sh, coleslaw, bread and your choice of fries, onion rings, green beans, hush puppies or mac and cheese.

Our Lady of Sorrows

With dine-in and carry-out options, Our Lady of Sorrows o ers another great family sh fry opportunity. Choose from either breaded or beer-battered cod or eight pieces of shrimp, then get a load of sides. Sides range from green beans and french fries to mac and cheese. e church also o ers beer for $3 a bottle, slices of cheese pizza for $2 and homemade desserts to bene t the Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament in Ferrier, Haiti. 330 Lebanon St., Monroe, olosmonroe.com.

Dates: 4:30-7:30 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: is is an all-you-can-eat experience ($12 for adults, $10 seniors and $15 ages 4-12) so try it all.

R&R Quality Meats

If you don't want to wait until dinner for sh fry fun, R&R has you covered with its lunch menu. It o ers sh tacos, a deep-fried beer-battered cod sandwich, shrimp baskets and sides on both the lunch and dinner menus. Novel options here include soup of the day and sweet potato fries. 4029 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, randrmeats. com.

Dates: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4:30-6:30 p.m. Fridays until Easter.

What to order: For an interesting take on a fried sh sandwich, try the baked-potato-crusted cod option.

St. Aloysius Gonzaga

St. Aloysius Gonzaga is o ering a variety of meals for its sh fry, including a baked or fried sh dinner, shrimp dinner, sh and chips, baked or fried sh sandwich and a shrimp basket. It will also be serving other items such as pizza, mac and cheese, green beans and coleslaw. is is a drive-thru-only sh fry. 4390 Bridgetown Road, Bridgetown, saintals.org/ shfry.

Dates: 4:30-7 p.m. Fridays through April 15.

What to order: e sh and chips includes a piece of baked or fried sh (we vote fried) with fries and coleslaw.

The Groen family and Erica (Groen) Shadoin (right)

PHOTO: COURTESY PORTER NOVELLI PR

empire’s permanent menu in 1965 and the rest is history.

Today, the sandwich features wild-caught Alaskan Pollock, American cheese and tartar sauce on a steamed bun.

In May of 2018, Erica said she got the opportunity to buy the original franchise where the sh sandwich was created, and she jumped on it. She says her brother and father have made McDonald’s a family business and they currently own 27 franchises in the Cincinnati area.

Erica says her family has a lot of pride in being a part of the Filet-O-Fish creation.

“I’m a third-generation owner and operator, so just to be able to follow in the footsteps of not only my dad but also my grandfather and being part of the McDonald’s brand has been a great experience.”

Visit Groen’s original McDonald’s location at 5425 W North Bend Road, Monfort Heights.

Mary, Queen of Heaven’s “Holy Haddock” sandwich

PHOTO: PROVIDED BY MARY, QUEEN OF HEAVEN

Nine Giant’s panko-crusted fried sh

PHOTO: FACEBOOK.COM/NINEGIANT

St. Augustine

Grab a Bud Light to accompany your sh dish at this dinner. Opt for fried or baked sh, fried shrimp with cocktail sauce, cheese pizza, mozzarella sticks or a fried sh sandwich. 413 W. 19th St., Covington, staugustines. net.

Dates: 4-7 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: Order the fried shrimp dinner and choose two sides: french fries, onion rings, coleslaw or mac and cheese.

St. Catharine of Siena

St. Catherine of Siena’s sh fry menu includes a few novel options and sides, like a cod slider or three-piece cod dinner plate. Both of these meals come with fries and coleslaw or fries and mac and cheese. And while the fry at the parish is drive-thru only, St. Catharine is bringing its goodies to West Side Brewing for two dates. stcathos.org/events.

Dates: 5-7 p.m. March 11, April 1 and April 8 at St.

Catherine of Siena, 2848 Fischer Place, Westwood. 5-9 p.m. March 18 and 25 at West Side Brewing 3044 Harrison Ave., Westwood.

What to order: e three-piece cod tacos, which come topped with slaw and chipotle crema.

St. Columban

Order online or stop by the drive-thru or carry-out line to enjoy everything from a fried sh sandwich and grilled salmon to Jet’s pizza or grilled cheese. St. Columban also o ers sh tacos, baked potatoes, a fun gourmet salad (with feta, dried cranberries, sun ower seeds and balsamic) and traditional sides. If you want to eat inside, grab your food and then head down to the Parish hall to enjoy your meal. 894 Oakland Road, Loveland, stcolumban.org.

Dates: 5-7:30 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: Gotta get the bu alo shrimp wrap with ranch dressing.

St. James the Greater

St. James the Greater has been blessing the White Oak area with quality Lenten meals for more than 10 years. Fried or baked sh, sh sandwiches, shrimp, LaRosa’s pizza, applesauce, Servatii’s pretzels with beer cheese — there’s something for everyone. Grab a “mystery dessert” for $1 if you order through the app or by phone. Dine-in, carry-out and drive-thru options available. 3565 Hubble Road, White Oak, stjames shfry.org.

Dates: 4:30-7:30 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: e beer-battered cod dinner, with your choice of white, rye or salted rye and two sides.

St. John the Baptist

St. John the Baptist will be serving up delicious dishes like a beer-battered shrimp dinner and baked or fried cod meals. For those wanting something less shy, there’s NYPD pizza, pretzels with cheese, housemade macaroni and cheese and more. Drive-thru only. 5361 Dry Ridge Road, Colerain Township, stjohnsdr.org.

Dates: 4:30-7:30 p.m. Fridays of Lent.

What to order: Order a la carte to try a few options like the popcorn shrimp or sh tacos, and tack on sides like fries, a baked potato or that aforementioned mac and cheese.

St. Susanna

St. Susanna o ers a handful of combo options. ere’s a salmon meal (see below), a fried sh meal with two pieces of fried sh, a six-piece “colossal fried shrimp meal” and the combo meal with sh and shrimp. Each comes with french fries, green beans and coleslaw for a side. You can also buy a large macaroni and cheese or even a whole pizza. 616 Reading Road, Mason, stsusanna.org/ shfry.

Dates: 4:30-8 p.m. Fridays through April 8; March 11 is drive-thru only.

What to order: A healthier salmon meal with green beans, french fries and coleslaw.

St. Veronica

St. Veronica hosts dine-in or carry-out options for sh or shrimp meals. e menu also o ers stand-alone sandwiches, hush puppies and a variety of bottled beer and hard seltzer. 4473 Mt. Carmel Tobasco Road, Mt. Carmel, facebook.com/stv shfry.

Dates: 5-7:30 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: e beer-battered cod meal with a fried cod sandwich, two hush puppies, two sides of your choice and a drink for $10.

St. Vincent Ferrer

Enjoy craft beer from local West Side Brewing alongside your entree at the St. Vincent Ferrer sh fry. With both a $10 sh dinner (two pieces of cod, two sides, a drink and dessert) and a $5 kids meal, there's something for everyone in the family. e kids meal comes with pizza and, in addition to sides like french fries and hush puppies, the parish o ers clam chowder. 7754 Montgomery Road, Kenwood, facebook.com/allssvf.

Dates: 5:30-7:30 p.m. Fridays in March.

What to order: For a truly lling sh experience, grab an $8 fried cod sandwich — with two extra pieces of sh for $5. at comes with a drink, dessert and two sides.

St. William Parish

St. William’s is celebrating another Lenten season with a weekly sh fry o ering food, friends and entertainment. Choose from a selection of sh options, like baked tilapia or salmon, as well as crab cakes, sh tacos, a “tavern” platter (with tavern sh, fries, hush puppies and coleslaw) mac and cheese and a homemade soup of the week. e parish added baked potatoes this year. Drive-thru only. 4108 W. Eighth St., Price Hill, saintwilliam.com/ sh-fry.

Dates: 4-7:30 p.m. Fridays through April 8.

What to order: eir “Magni cod Platter” is a favorite option. It comes with hand-breaded cod, fries, two hushpuppies and coleslaw.