Scene Flavor 2014 by Chava Communications

Taking flavor to a new degree

Taking f lavor to a new degree TO LIVE IN Cleveland is to work hard. We’re proud of that. We own it. But working hard doesn’t always mean consistently having the time or dough to enjoy a high-end dining experience. As we examine the fine dining landscape in Cleveland, however, there is a movement happening. It’s one that’s already taken shape in foodie neighborhoods across the country, from Austin, Texas to SoHo, New York to Wicker Park. It’s a shift in mentality that starts with embracing the idea that a well-run Cleveland restaurant can offer some of the highest-end food in the market while offering financially approachable small plates and bar menus. At its heart, it’s a movement that bridges the gap between the top 1-percenters and the everyday

foodies. Ken Stewart, veteran Northeast Ohio restaurateur, and his family are among the pioneers embracing the movement in Cleveland at the awardwinning Ken Stewart’s East Bank. One of the keys to Stewart’s move has been his long tradition of running the

How Ken Stewart’s East Bank stays ahead of the curve while keeping the restaurant in the family

East Bank outpost and the rest of his portfolio as family operations. “You will always see a Stewart at Ken Stewart East Bank and that enables us to be plugged into what our guests want,” explains the always

ON THIS PAGE: TOP: Ken Stewart himself looks small compared to those crab legs; ABOVE: Look for Ken Stewart’s famed logo-sitting high above his newest location in the East Bank of the Flats on the first floor of the Aloft Hotel; RIGHT: You will also find it on the bottles of his brand’s aromatic wines — just $6 per glass during happy hour. SPONSORED CONTENT

hospitable Ken Stewart. His daughter Lindsey, who’s also general manager of KSEB, is one of the sharpest operators in the region with a laser focus on what her guests enjoy. Ken’s wife, Lori, is the interior design

PHOTOS BY EMANUEL WALLACE; POST PROCESSING BY ALISE BELCHER.

genius behind the sexy and sleek East Bank locale. Ken’s other daughter, Carley, a student at OSU, works as a hostess at the restaurant when school is out. It is this family interaction with every guest that has enabled Stewart to take the leap to offer an affordable small/medium plate menu in their bar area. Offered daily in the restaurant’s lounge area from 3 p.m. until close, the bar menu boasts 20 selections, all utilizing world-class ingredients, all served at working-class prices. Take, for instance, the Wagyu beef slider. Priced at $4 and sold individually, this elite slider is topped with melted blue cheese, bacon jam, and a garlic aoili, while a Cornichon pickle is speared through the soft slider bun. Or the lobster nachos ($7), which are topped with a fresh lobster salad, mashed avocado, red peppers, and finished with a bernaise. If that doesn’t cure your lobster fix, the lobster deviled eggs ($4 each) are both refined and savory. A take on a classic and large enough to split, the train wreck poutine ($10.50) offers tater tots covered with cheddar curds, fresh jalapeños, onion gravy, sambol aioli, bacon, and tomatoes. The grilled cheese with tomato soup at $6 is ridiculously tasty and a meal in itself. Gruyere cheese bubbles from the bread and fresh arugula is stuffed inside to balance out the flavor. Served with a cup of mouthwatering San Marzano tomato soup, the dish is at once savory and sweet. Other prestigious cheap eats include mussels with hot Italian sausage ($6.50), calamari sautéed with red peppers and garlic ($5.50), and farro risotto with baby kale and fresh corn ($8.50). In keeping with the “family culture”, Stewart has also implemented a children’s menu — which isn’t something you typically find at a high-end restaurant. But don’t expect microwaved mac n’ cheese here — the kids are eating well. Ken Stewart’s East Bank offers

the little ones a four-ounce filet mignon, cashew crusted chicken tenders, or a decadent grilled cheese, among other options. For those die hard Stewart fans, don’t be alarmed, the right side of the menu is still strong, offering some of the most exclusive dishes in the city. Th distinctive list includes a $25 per ounce 100-percent Japanese Wagyu beef from Kagoshioma, which is only served in a handful of restaurants nationwide, as well as a sun dried tomato crusted Chilean sea bass served with crispy fingerling potatoes, English peas, and basil puree.

And for a town for perch lovers, Ken Stewart does Lake Erie perch right, making it an elegant entree while keeping the price moderate. The native fish is sautéed (not fried) to perfection and served with cole slaw and pomme frittes. Another shift in the establishment’s “value added” philosophy: Stewart’s recent move to add a complimentary house salad with every entree. Ken Stewart East Bank is blessed with a prime location — proximity to the Ernst & Young building and the Aloft Hotel, and it has become a popular spot for special events and meetings. The restaurant’s

ON THIS PAGE: TOP CENTER: Ken and Lindsey flash an effortless and comforting smile — this family embodies the “Clevelander’s” sense of home; TOP LEFT: Chilean sea-bass with a sun-dried tomato crust-atop crispy fingerling potatoes & English peas, and a mouthwatering swirl of basil puree; BELOW RIGHT: dinner small plate crab cake served with pickled cucumber, uber fresh avocado and specially prepared spicy mustard aioli; BOTTOM LEFT: Lindsey reps CLE with two East Bank signature cocktails. SPONSORED CONTENT

private room can accommodate up to 90 guests and has all the bells and whistles you could ask for, including smart screens for presentations and access to the patio. There’s a reason why Ken Stewart and his family have been so successful here and in Akron for decades. It’s not only that they deliver world-class food and service, but that they’ve learned the most valuable hospitality lesson of them all: Listen and adapt to your customer base

They’ve done just that and more. Ken Stewart’s East Bank Dinner reservations recommended Open Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m.11 p.m.; Saturday 5 p.m.-11 p.m., closed Sunday.

1121 W. 10th St., Cleveland; (216) 696-8400, kenstewarts.com/eastbank. Ken_Stewarts t • Ken Stewart’s East Bank `

scene scene

Table of Contents

Now Open

p of restaurants

2014 brought a bumper cro

Coming Soon

And 2015 will pick up right where 2014 left

We Ate Well

off

10 d down all year

The best things we scarfe

“Never judge a wine bar” — from Gigi’s on Fairmount.

Dining listings

buy, sell, hold

Hot Spots, Americ an, & South of the Border

love, Cleveland food trends we don’t mind

hate or just

a meal for every budget 20

‘[Fire Food & Drink’s] menu is dynamic, filled with popular dishes.’

Dining listings

Italian & Pizza; European & Mediterrane an; Asian, Indian & Middle Eastern

Eats by streets

top chefs

An option for every meal neighborhood

in every Cleveland

Three cooks we love, moving and shaking the Cleveland dining world

Dining listings

37 artini

M Pubs & Wine and Steaks & Seafood; sual Bars; Quick & Ca

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A guide for princesses, paupers and ever yone in between

On the cover: Jumbo crab legs at Ken Stewart’s East bank. Photograph by Emanuel Wallace; post-processing by Alise Belcher.

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Specialty burgers, Pizzas, Steaks, Chicken, Seafood & More

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Photo courtesy of BurkleHagen scene

Now Open staurants 2014 brought a bumper crop of re by douglas trattner THERE IS NO ARGUING THAT this very moment in time is the most thrilling, dynamic and robust in the history of the Cleveland dining scene. Almost daily, it seems, Scene is sharing the news of yet another splashy restaurant opening or the inside scoop on some chef’s optimistic plans to hang out his or her shingle in the coming weeks or months. Don’t believe us? We’ve compiled a list of just a few of the most notable restaurant openings within the past year. In terms of size and scope, there is no besting the Hofbrauhaus Cleveland, which opened its doors in early October. The 24,000-square-foot complex in Playhouse Square is an official outpost of the Munich-based original, which dates back to 1589. Grab a seat outside in the 1,000-seat beer garden or inside at the 500-seat beer hall to enjoy classic Bavarian beer and food. Almost as ambitious in design and reach is Butcher and the Brewer, a multi-level restaurant and brewery on East Fourth Street. The casual brewpub offers communal seating, shared dining and fresh-brewed suds. An onsite retail butcher shop will open in the coming months. At the new Westin Downtown, Urban Farmer is a high-end, farm-to-table steakhouse with roots in Portland, Ore., home to the original. As a steakhouse,

Urban Farmer succeeds on many levels, offering more than a dozen options in terms of cut, weight, pedigree, rearing and aging. And the interior is undeniably attractive. When Trentina opened this summer, it became Cleveland’s first tasting menu-only eatery, wherein guests surrendered their appetites to the whims of chefowner Jonathon Sawyer and his crew. The restaurant has since added an a la carte menu to the dining room, but for our money, the best experience is still built

Crumb & Spigot welcomes you.

around the 12-course Menu Bianco. After 20 years in the restaurant biz — starting as a line cook at the Caxton Café alongside Michael Symon — Tim Bando has a pretty solid grasp of what works and what doesn’t. Relying on that accumulated wisdom, he transformed the fusty old Raintree in Chagrin Falls into Grove Hill, an attractive destination that

Urban Farmer, “Cleveland’s Steakhouse” has much to offer.

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Trentina, located in the heart of University Circle.

manages to satisfy a wide swath of the family friendly community. Adega, the premier restaurant at The 9, is helmed by Eddie Tancredi, a 30-year-old chef with an already impressive CV. The elegant but casual eatery in the high-end hotel and residence complex offers modern Mediterranean cuisine flush with fresh seafood, local ingredients and imported specialty products. When chefs Steve Schimoler and Matt Anderson combine their talents in one location, only good things can happen. At least, that’s what we’re counting on at Crop Kitchen, which recently opened in the former Accent space at Uptown in University Circle. Here, diners will find a more casual version of the Ohio City original, with sandwiches, starters, sushi bar items, and a handful of nightly specials. When news broke that Happy Dog would be taking over the Euclid Tavern in University Circle, a collective sigh seemed to roll across the landscape. What better fit for the historic club than a music-focused hot dog joint run by industry pros? Now, eastsiders can relish the relish-topped tubesteaks without driving clear across the Cuyahoga. Ninja City just opened in University Circle and already it’s attracting hordes of timestrapped, budget-crunched diners, many of whom are students at nearby universities. This fun and lively Pan-Asian concept is a sort of hybrid that combines the menu traits of a fast-casual eatery with the bar and service of a fullservice restaurant. In Bainbridge, in the former Western Reserve Bread shop, Crumb & Spigot is small, sparkling and cute as a button. Run by longtime catering chef Karen Gorman, the upscale

neighborhood tavern dishes up simple, approachable, fromscratch food that people can recognize. It has taken Jesse Mason and Helen Qin only about two years to go from small-batch ice cream dabblers to brick-and-mortar shopkeepers. That is a testament to their spirit and product, both of which are bottomless wells of glee. After a lengthy build-out process, the team just opened the doors to Mason’s Creamery in the former home of Ohio City Ice Cream and Dari Delite. Susan Walters, the pioneering restaurant owner behind such concepts as KeKa and SubStance, has converted the Battery Park Wine Bar in Detroit Shoreway into CHA Spirits & Pizza Kitchen. The freshly modified interior features a repositioned bar, open kitchen and lakeshore views. Waterloo Brew, the first of many proposed new eateries to open in North Collinwood, has brought fresh life to the old Slovenian Workmen’s Home on Waterloo. Brought to you by the same guys who operate ABC and XYZ Taverns, Waterloo Brew combines beer, bocce and cheesesteak sandwiches. Fans of Cajun and Creole food have been eagerly awaiting the arrival of Bourbon Street Barrel Room, a construction project more than a year in the making. Very recently, chef-owner Johnny Schulze, the man behind the Big Easy-inspired food truck Zydeco Bistro, opened his Tremont doors and began serving soul-satisfying dishes like gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish etouffe, barbecue shrimp, and red beans and rice. And don’t forget the tall, refreshing Hurricanes. #flavor2014

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Sweet Melissa: A menu that is as satisfying as it is sweet enjoyed the mouth-watering menu and famous desserts of Sweet Melissa’s in Rocky River. The overwhelming success of the Rocky River location, led owner Matthew Ullom, led to a decision to expand the brand into Avon Lake. Cafe Melissa, a 60-seater bistro-style cafe with a quaint patio opened in 2012. Celebrating their two-year anniversary, Cafe Melissa was just what the food doctor ordered for Avon Lake. With a solid track record in place, Ullom decided to take his ‘sweet talents’ to the east side of Cleveland. In March of this year, Sweet Melissa’s officially took University Heights by storm. Occupying the former North Park Grill & located in the heart of the John Carroll University campus, the new location has been an instant success. Even though the menu is the same across all three properties, the University Heights locale does a few things differently. For starters, they have a quickserve coffee bar, a place where locals and college students

m t meli

is tops in our book. Tossed in a cilantro lime vinaigrette, the mixture of red cabbage, carrots, arugula, edamame, corn, scallions, and cashews will really ignite your flavor senses. The gluten-free theme also carries over into Sweet Melissa’s dessert menu. Their vegan glutenfree cupcake is a coveted dessert and flies out of the bakery case. For those looking to partake in some sugar heaven, we recommend saving room for the red velvet torte cake, the chocolate peanut butter cheesecake, or the pumpkin tart. Or all three! Be warned that if you are seated close to their pastry case — resistance is futile! s

alike can walk-up, grab a coffee and a scone. The University Heights location also serves breakfast seven days a week. Both the quick-serve bar and breakfast service is offered daily starting at 7am. The food at Sweet Melissa’s is undeniably the underlying key to their success. With almost 70 items on the menu and an edible culture of a true American bistro, the menu spans all cultures, creating a melting pot of offerings. Diners line up for the uber popular fried brussels sprouts. The sprouts are seasoned with a Japanese ponzu and honey before they are flash fried to create a perfect balance of flavor. Served with a sweet chili dipping sauce you will never look at vegetables the same way again. Pulling on our child-hood heartstrings, the bacon wrapped meatloaf is not to be missed. Applewood smoked bacon literally covers every inch of the delicious blend of meats. Served with whipped potatoes and garlicky baby spinach, the meatloaf is finished off with a Marsala gravy. Another beautiful thing about their menu is their authentic commitment to gluten-free and vegetarian offerings. The pumpkin sage gnocchi is a vegetarian’s dream. Tossed with scallions, dried cranberries, toasted pumpkin seeds, goat cheese, balsamic, and a mushroom medley it is down right yummy. Another vegetarian highlight is Tim’s veggie tacos. House-made corn tortillas are loaded with fried tofu, arugula, sour cream, guacamole, white cheddar, and a charred tomato. The gluten-free blackened shrimp salad

SINCE 2008, COUNTLESS Westsiders have

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scene

Coming Soon... 2015 will pick up right where 2014 left off by douglas trattner SPOILED MUCH, CLEVELAND? Given the impressive roster of fresh restos you just devoured, you’d be safe to assume that the chamber is empty, that there couldn’t possibly be any new and noteworthy restaurants around the corner. But the giddy truth is there is more – much more – to come. When Michael Symon announces not just a new restaurant, but a new restaurant concept, diners rightfully perk up their ears. When Mabel’s BBQ opens on East Fourth Street in the coming months, it will introduce the nation to “Cleveland-style barbecue,” Symon says. Meals will start with smoked peanuts, pimento cheese dip, fried pork rinds, and crispy pig ears and tails. Mains are built around oakand applewood-smoked brisket, pork roll, pork and beef ribs, pulled pork, chicken and kielbasa. It all gets washed down with cold beer and moonshine. When Banter opens in Detroit Shoreway, it should easily develop

into one of the most unique food and drink concepts to hit Cleveland in some time. One part neighborhood bottle shop, one part casual bistro, and all kinds of awesome, this near-west business is being guided by some of the brightest minds in the local food and drink scene. In addition to retail beer and wine, Banter will serve all of its holdings on premises, along with a menu of sausages and Quebec-style

poutines. When it opens this winter, Plum Café and Kitchen will serve as an alternative in both size and locale to the big and buzzy joints on West 25th Street. This 50-seat farm-to-table operation

The Iron Chef brings “Cleveland BBQ” to E. 4th.

on Lorain Avenue will begin the day with barista-prepared coffee and pastries. At lunch, guests will order off a menu of fresh soups, salads and sandwiches. At night, the space will be a down-to-earth neighborhood bistro serving local, seasonal and economical fare. Enduring construction delays is par for the course in this business, but poor Cory Hess has suffered more than most. His transformation of the old City Grill in Detroit Shoreway to Arcadian Food & Drink has stretched to the 18-month mark, and he hasn’t crossed the finish line yet. But when he does, diners will enjoy a glass-fronted, multi-level eatery with casual tavern below and dining room

The fellas behind Banter.

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above. Shareable plates of raw and cooked seafood, pizzas and sandwiches are the planned bill of fare. Bakersfield Tacos, Tequila, Whiskey was launched in Cincinnati’s Over-the-Rhine neighborhood in 2012. By spring, Ohio City will welcome location No. 6. The name is a tribute to the country music genre that originated in Bakersfield, Calif., in the ’50s and ’60s. That music is served up alongside Mexican street foods like tacos, tortas and tostadas, with corn tortillas made onsite. Tommy Karakostas, owner of the popular Lakewood eatery Greek Village Grille, will open Santorini in the former BRGR 9 spot in the Warehouse District. At lunch, Santorini will offer quick, affordable pita sandwiches. Dinner will feature a more ambitious menu comprised of Greek-style “meze,” or small plates, as well as shared platters and both traditional and contemporary Greek entrees. Late-night and even 24-hour dining might be added to the weekend mix. Hansa Import House has been an Ohio City fixture for about 40 years, but it likely will attract a whole new fan base when its gleaming new brewery and restaurant open. A year and a half of construction soon will give way to a Laško-sanctioned brewery, beer garden, restaurant and rooftop patio. And good news for longtime fans, the retail shop selling specialty European foods is going nowhere. #flavor2014

Culinary Precision By Chef Shannon Burns

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11609 DETROIT AVE. CLEVELAND | 216.226.2767 brotherslounge.com | facebook.com/brotherslounge

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scene

Yum!

The best things I ate all year by douglas trattner

BONE-IN RIB-EYE @ URBAN FARMER

777 St. Clair Ave., 216-771-7707, urbanfarmercleveland.com

This downtown newcomer offers a primer on steak, with plenty of porterhouses, strips, tenderloins and flatirons. But it was the 24-ounce grain-finished, bone-in Ohio rib-eye that delivered the ultimate mix of char, fat and flavor. OXTAIL STEW @ OCHO RIOS

1007 Ivanhoe Rd., 216-249-6246

What this Jamaican joint lacks in ambiance it more than makes up for in authenticity. The oxtail stew tastes like the pot roast of one’s dreams, with the pudding-soft meat swimming in a rich and deeply flavorful gravy. It’s served with rice and beans and warm cabbage slaw. SPICY SHRIMP

@ HAN CHINESE 3710 Payne Ave., 216-769-8745

The name “spicy shrimp” is an awfully bland descriptor for the mind-blowing dish to come. Fat-ass prawns are butterflied, deveined and flash-fried before getting doused with Szechuan red-chili oil and sprinkled with hot peppers. Eat ’em shell and all. SEAFOOD TOWER

in the dry rub. A long, slow smoke in the pit leaves them smoky, firm and sweet. CRAB CAKES BENEDICT @ DANTE NEXT DOOR

2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1201, danteboccuzzi.com

Brunch is all about indulgence – when else is morning drinking accepted behavior? This upgraded version of an already extravagant dish slides in sautéed crab cakes between the ham and poached egg. Of course, the whole stack is drenched in lemony Hollandaise. MINT CHOCOLATE CHIP

@ PICCADILLY ARTISAN CREAMERY 11607 Euclid Ave., 216-563-1992, piccadillyartisanyogurt.com

Yes, ice cream made to order in a mixer with liquid nitrogen sounds gimmicky, but the results are anything but. Because liquid nitrogen is so cold, ice crystals have no opportunity to form, resulting in the creamiest texture and richest flavor possible. TACOS

@ EL SEÑOR’S 170 East Washington St., Painesville, 440-354-3896

The pitch-perfect tacos at this tiny cantina-in-a-grocery are built

Spicy shrimp from Han Chinese in Asiatown.

atop a pair of warm, fragrant, griddle-fried corn tortillas. They’re topped with beef tongue, carne asada, al pastor or chorizo. Diners add their own fresh-squeezed lime, chopped cilantro, diced white onion and heavenly salsas.

deep fried in lard, seasoned, drizzled with honey and served with Sriracha dipping sauce. The resulting crisps are crunchy, salty and addictive.

CHILE BAJJI

3900 Lorain Ave., 216-961-5199, jack-flaps.com

@ HOT OR MILD 1446 SOM Center Rd., Mayfield Heights, 440-446-8200

If you truly love spicy food. I recommend these: finger-long hot peppers that are stuffed, spiced, breaded in chickpea flour and deep fried. The only way to counter the heat is with a side of cool raita. CHICKEN CRACKLINGS

@ PEACHTREE SOUTHERN KITCHEN 200 North Main St., Hudson, 234-380-1789, peachtreesouthernkitchen.com

Like any self-respecting Southern eatery, Peachtree dishes up large portions of soulsatisfying comfort foods. But this particular snack left me pining for more. Chicken skin is cleaned,

@ GROVE HILL

25 Pleasant Dr., 440-247-4800, Chagrin Falls, grovehillchagrin.com

The only thing more celebratory than a platter of shimmering seafood is an entire tower of it. This multi-tiered showstopper is loaded with raw oysters and clams, king crab, plump shrimp, wild salmon tartar and scallop sashimi.

This small, funky, seat-yourself café is anything but ordinary – and that applies to the house bacon, which is some of the best in town. Pork belly is slow-cooked until it is melt-in-your-mouth tender. It’s glazed with a syrupy Mexican Coca-Cola and sliced into fat, smoky slabs that go great with everything on the menu. SHRIMP AND GRITS @ THE STANDARD

779 East 185th St., 216-531-9643, thestandardcleveland.com

The Standard knows how to straddle a fence. Its location teeters between Cleveland and Euclid; the interior blurs the line between cozy pub and swank bistro; and the dishes land right between small plate and entrée. That’s great news when the dish is shrimp and grits, with fat shrimp perched atop rich and creamy polenta dotted with chunks of bacon. @ PUPUSERIA KATARINA 4848 Broadview Rd., 216-331-6624

A city can never have too many pupuserias. That’s why we were thrilled to learn that one opened closer to town. This quaint, spare eatery serves up all the classics, including a crisp, corny and gooey version with cheese, refried beans and pork. Don’t forget the curtido, a cool, bright and crunchy cabbage slaw.

@ OAK AND EMBERS 8003 Mayfield Rd., Chesterland, 440-729-4030, oakandemberstavern.com

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@ JACK FLAPS

PUPUSA

BABY BACK RIBS

I could eat my weight in barbecue, and I’d start with a few slabs of baby back ribs from this place. The owner leaves a bit of the loin attached when butchering them and lets them sit overnight

PORK BELLY

Tacos from El Señor’s in Painesville.

#flavor2014

5455 STATE RD • PARMA, OH • 216.741.7200 • www.Grillerspub.com SCENE | FLAVOR

scene scene

Dining Listings

ver visit an old favorite or disco orhood something new in your neighb by scene dining editors HOT SPOTS

Amp 150 4277 W. 150th St. (inside the Airport Marriott), 216-706-8787. Ignoring a restaurant because it resides in a hotel is not only unfair – it’s unwise, as evidenced by this contemporary American gem. Upending stereotypes at every turn, Amp relies on locally grown ingredients to fashion its modern, seasonal, and delightful dishes. Divided into sections for sharing, small plates, entrées, and sides, the affordable menu is ideal for guests who come and go at all hours of the day. $$$ Blue Point Grille 700 W. St. Clair Ave., 216-875-STAR. Well-prepared fresh seafood is the specialty at this beautifully renovated space in the Warehouse District. Don’t miss Blue Point chowder or the grouper over lobster-mashed potatoes. $$$$ Chinato 2079 E. 4th St., 216-298-9080. Chinato makes diners feel special with redefined Italian dishes served in a contemporary setting. Start with glistening crudo or a bowl of unabashedly salty seafood fritto misto. Chinato’s pastas are lush, dreamy and (fortunately) available in half portions. Entrées include buttery skate wing, Amaronebraised beef and brilliant porchetta. $$$ Cowell & Hubbard 1305 Euclid Ave., 216479-0555. This being Zack Bruell’s fifth Cleveland restaurant, diners now know they can expect high-caliber service, an interior pulled from the pages of Architectural Digest, and a menu the size of Atlas Shrugged. What Bruell calls “modern FrenchAmerican” might just as well be billed New Mediterranean, with nods to Morocco, France and Italy. In the end, the food is characteristically Bruellian: tidy stacks of meat and veg resting in an opulent sauce, diamond-cut by the acidity of lemon. $$$ Dante 2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1200. Native Clevelander Dante Boccuzzi has worked his way around the globe, with stints in London, Milan, Hong Kong, San Francisco and New York. Now settled in Tremont, his contemporary bistro borrows from Italian, American and Asian cuisines. Still, no meal is complete without a sample of the chef’s killer pasta, polenta or risotto, all available by the taste. $$$-$$$$ Fahrenheit 2417 Professor Ave. 216-7818858 Fahrenheit opened in Tremont back in 2002, making chef Rocco Whalen one of the earlier culinary pioneers of that neighborhood. That the restaurant has continued to thrive in what has become an exceedingly fierce marketplace is a testament to its quality and broad appeal. Whalen’s brassy American cuisine delivers in terms of ingredients, preparation and

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presentation, making it a destination for diners from as far afield as both coasts. Vietnamese chicken spring rolls, Kobe beef short ribs, coffee-crusted pork tenderloin and dreamy pizza pies are some of the reasons guests continue to flock here, but more than anything it’s Whalen’s passion for his food, his neighborhood, and his city that warms the cockles. $$$-$$$$

Fat Cats 2061 W. 10th St., 216-579-0200. The eclectic, contemporary menu at this Tremont fixture is a good match for its shabby-chic decor; and somehow, dishes like bouillabaisse, seared duck breast, and sausage-and-goat-cheese rigatoni taste better when devoured ‘neath the light of candles and lava lamps. Friendly staffers and a full bar are other reasons to pad on into this neighborhood gem. $$-$$$ Fire Food & Drink 3220 Shaker Square 216-921-3473. You know those women who never seem to age? That’s how we feel about Fire, Doug Katz’s 13-year-old bistro that looks as if it opened just yesterday. The industrial chic dining room, the babysmooth concrete bar, the open kitchen, the snappy linens… the place defines “timeless appeal.” The American menu is both static and dynamic, filled with popular signature dishes that receive quarterly seasonal tweaks, augmented by daily features, built from market fresh ingredients. We’re not quite sure how a tandoor oven works, but we do know that everything that comes out of it tastes like gold. $$$-$$$$ Flying Fig 2523 Market Ave., 216-2414243. Chef-owner Karen Small stocks her larder with simple, homegrown ingredients, then coaxes them into precise assemblages of soaring flavor at this hip, youthful, and energetic bistro in the heart of Ohio City. And as any trendinista will tell you, the Fig’s happy hours are among the best in the city for unwinding on a budget. $$$-$$$$ Greenhouse Tavern 2038 East Fourth St. 216-393-4302. Besides Michael Symon, there might be no Cleveland chef who has done more to attract positive national attention than Jonathon Sawyer. In addition to Greenhouse Tavern’s selection as one of the “Top 10 Best New Restaurants in the U.S.” by Bon Appetit, Sawyer also snagged a spot in Food & Wine’s 2010 class of “Best New Chefs.” And the accolades haven’t stopped coming, all further bolstering Cleveland as a major foodie town while increasing local culinary tourism. Genial, passionate and wickedly creative in the kitchen, Sawyer makes an ideal ambassador for our food scene. And where else in town can an adventurous diner tuck into a roasted pig face, a delicious dish that belies its ghoulish visage. $$-$$$$

‘[Fire Food & Drink’s] menu is both static and dynamic, filled with popular signature dishes.’

Great Lakes Brewing Company 2516 Market Ave., 216-771-4404. A true Cleveland original, this award-winning brewery features contemporary pub fare that’s as good-tasting and as authentic as its historic space. Outstanding craft-brewed beers on tap. $$$ Grumpy’s Cafe 2621 W. 14th St. 216-2415025. A devastating fire once put Grumpy’s out of commission for two years, but owner Kathy Owad resurrected the beloved Tremont café in a cozy new space that now has lines spilling out the doors every weekend. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, weekend brunch and late-night weekend dining, Grumpy’s pretty much has you covered morning, noon and night. Expect hearty plates of reasonably priced, stick-to-your-ribs comfort food served with cheerfulness. $-$$ Happy Dog 5801 Detroit Ave., 216-6519474. Fries, tater tots, and custom-made hot dogs with a choice of 50 toppings form the core of the Happy Dog menu. But when taken in combination with a rockin’ vibe, plenty of live music, and an impressive roundup of beers (including more than 20 on tap), it makes this little bar one of the biggest draws in town. And east siders are in on the game now too, with the opening of the Happy Dog (boasting all the same great food and booze) in the old Euclid Tavern spot in University Circle. $-$$ Johnny’s Downtown 1406 W. 6th St., 216-623-0055. How does it feel to be one of the beautiful people? Go to this opulent Warehouse District restaurant and find out. The kitchen’s heady creations are nearly as grand as the room itself, with bold flavors, savory ingredients, and a pleasantly upscale Italian accent. Hey, at least our dreams of the good life are free. $$$-$$$$ Lola 2058 East Fourth St. 216-621-5652. Initially, it’s the name. After all, “Michael Symon” is why you have dinner reservations in Cleveland in the first place. Then you turn the corner and see East Fourth Street for the first time and think, “This is pretty cool.” The expanse of glass that fronts Lola offers a few glimpses of what’s to come: bustling bar, radiant bartop, massive wall of wine. Once fully inside, the room comes into view – the dramatically lit 15-foot coffered ceiling, the one-of-a-kind chandeliers, the titanic open kitchen manned by a small cadre of cooks and chefs. Apps come – pearly oysters perhaps, or the now-famous beef cheek pierogies – and you crack a small smile. A brave soul at the table orders the grilled veal heart and you force down a small bite. And then a larger one. You’ve had halibut before, but it’s never managed to taste like this. Another bottle of pinot? Yes, please. You can’t possibly make

room for dessert, but then you do, along with a few nibbles of ripe cheese, an after-dinner bourbon. It can’t be 10:30 p.m., can it? $$$-$$$$

Lucky’s Café 777 Starkweather Ave., 216622-7773. This cozy little café offers simple all-day breakfasts, a roundup of lunchtime sandwiches, and bounteous weekend brunches, including several options just right for the meat-free crowd. Regardless of the time, don’t overlook owner Heather Haviland’s well-stocked pastry counter, filled with imaginative muffins, scintillating scones, and brightly frosted cupcakes, among other sweet delights. $$ Melt Bar and Grilled 13463 Cedar Road, Cleveland Heights, 216-965-0988. Rightly praised for its gigantic stuffed and toasted grilled cheese sandwiches, this home-grown phenomenon fills bellies and buoys spirits. Fillings range from the austere to the ridiculous, such as the pair of cheese pierogies inside the Parmageddon. Wicked beer list, kitsch-filled dining room, and rockin’ tunes create a festive atmosphere. $$ Michaelangelo’s 2198 Murray Hill Rd., 216-721-0300. Trained in Italy’s Piedmont region, talented chef-owner Michael Annandono tackles an ambitious repertoire of mostly northern Italian fare with consistently delicious results. We can rarely resist the delicate homemade pastas, served in a room that is as elegantly understated as the food itself. Italian and Californian wine list. $$$ Momocho 1835 Fulton Rd. 216-694-2122. When Momocho chef-owner Eric Williams introduced Cleveland diners to “Mod Mex,” he did so only after years of running kitchens at Johnny Mango and Lopez. His creative takes on regional Mexican cuisine work because they are grounded in history, familiarity and respect for ingredients. Thus, Momocho’s smoked trout and bacon guacamole is both classic and modern – and always delicioso. Flavor-seeking diners flock here for roll-your-own beer-braised goat taquitos, crab and smoked trout chilaquiles, and pepita-crusted trout. “Quality and consistency are the keys to our success,” says Williams. An unbending edict if ever there was one.1835 Fulton Rd. $$-$$$ Moxie 3355 Richmond Rd., Beachwood, 216831-5599. Svelte and sophisticated, Moxie is where you take your business partners to impress them with your good taste. The seasonal American foods, including grilled fish, savory meats, and bountiful salads, are artfully presented by professional servers. $$$-$$$$ Parallax 2179 W. 11th St., 216-583-

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Pier W 12700 Lake Ave., Lakewood, 216-228-2250. A landmark dining room overlooking Lake Erie, Pier W combines a sophisticated, contemporary interior with worldly cuisine focused on fish and seafood. (Check out the fine bouillabaisse, for instance, a house signature.) Factor in its jaw-dropping view of the downtown skyline, and its no wonder that Pier W is one of the city’s most beloved restaurants. $$$ Pura Vida 170 Euclid Ave., 216-987-0100. Veteran chef Brandt Evans’ Public Square restaurant is a breath of fresh air for downtowners, with a spare decor, an urbane vibe, and rustically refined menus built from local, sustainable ingredients.A stickler for details, Evans pays equal attention to every element of a dish. He does, however, leave room for whimsy, as evidenced by the occasional odd ingredient and deconstructed arrangement. Full bar. $$$ Red, the Steakhouse 3355 Richmond Rd., Beachwood, 216-831-2252. Luscious slabs of beef and creative, indulgent salads, sides and desserts make this modern American steakhouse a prime location for well-heeled meat-eaters. A well-organized wine list, gracious service and contemporary rustic decor with a Napa-like sophistication complete the region’s best steakhouse with a second location also downtown near East Fourth. $$$$ Ristorante Giovanni’s 25550 Chagrin Blvd., Beachwood, 216-831-8625. One of the last remaining grande dames of the region’s formal dining scene, this elegant Italian restaurant offers impeccable appointments, attentive service and a luxurious menu of steaks, veal chops, seafood and pasta. Yes, it is expensive. But the chance to put on a suit and feel like a grown-up? Priceless. $$$$ Table 45 9801 Carnegie Ave. (Intercontinental Hotel) 216-707-4045. A happy alliance of modern architecture and contemporary cuisine, Table 45 offers an enticing collection of global fare that blends sophistication with unpretentious appeal. The kitchen may borrow freely from Indian, Mediterranean, and South American pantries, but the clear, focused flavors are all its own. $$$ Tommy’s 1824 Coventry Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-321-7757. Hippie or hipster, young or old, meathead or vegan, Clevelanders have been flocking to this culinary landmark since 1972, hungry for the big assortment of creative and unusual sandwiches, soups and salads. After a healthy hummus-stuffed ripe tomato or a grilled-cheese sandwich with veggies, sunflower seeds and sesame sauce, be sure to splurge on a creamy, old-fashioned malt or milkshake. $$

AMERICAN Bascule Bridge Grille 1006 Bridge St., Ashtabula, 440-964-0301. When it comes to

picturesque settings, this relative newcomer steals the show. Located on Bridge Street in the heart of the historic Ashtabula Harbor, the bistro is right by the architecturally compelling Bascule Bridge. Diners will find the same level of attention placed in the food, a seasonal roundup of farm-to-table starters, salads and mains. Start with crab cakes, move on to chorizo-spiked mussels, and round off your meal with a hearty Berkshire Pork Chop. $$-$$$

Battise & Dupree Cajun Grill 1992 Warrensville Center Rd. 216-381-3341. Owner, chef, host, server, bartender, and busser: Junior Battiste really does it all. As a result, dining in this teensy Cajun restaurant can be an adventure, marked by warmth, whimsy, and occasionally slow service. Still, those who value style and substance over speed won’t be disappointed: Junior’s madefrom-scratch cookin’ is some of the best in town. $$ Big Al’s Diner 12600 Larchmere Blvd., 216791-8550. If you miss Mom’s cooking, this is the place to get your fix. Big Al’s has all the comforting favorites, like thick, steaming soups, housemade mashed potatoes with gravy, open-faced roast beef sandwiches and chocolate cake for dessert. Breakfast is served until the diner’s late-afternoon closing time. $-$$

Original Great Lakes Bistro

FOOD | COCKTAILS | WINE Monday Night Pub Menu 5-9pm Saturday Night Swanky Hour 9-12 mid Wine List Always $10 Over Retail AMERICANOCLEVELAND.COM

One Bratenahl Place Cleveland, OH Phone: (216) 541-3900

TOP 5

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IN N.E.O.

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Bistro 185 991 E. 185th St., 216-481-9635. Neighbors have thanked owners Marc and Ruth Levine for “not being another wing-andbeer joint,” while others appreciate them for not being too upscale. Bistro 185 takes the glorious middle road, offering hearty madefrom-scratch comfort dishes at blue-collar prices. $$$ Blue Canyon Kitchen & Tavern 8960 Wilcox Dr., Twinsburg, 330-486-BLUE. Perched on a hill overlooking the Ohio countryside, this rambling lodge offers a lovely backdrop for Executive Chef Brandt Evans’ hearty American fare. While entrées like short ribs and mac ‘n’ cheese may sound homey, count on Evans to update them with luxury ingredients and season them with culinary magic. $$$ Bourbon Street Barrel Room 2393 Professor Ave., 216-298-4400. A monumental renovation project has converted a former art gallery into a splashy two-level dining room that conjures images of the lively French Quarter. Chef Johnny Schulze, a Baton Rouge native, turns out soul-satisfying dishes like gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish etouffe, barbecue shrimp, red beans and rice and other Cajun and Creole classics. $$ Briquettes Smokehouse 1035 Bridge St., Ashtabula, 440-964-2273. Since 2009, this restaurant in an historic Ashtabula address has been dishing up award-winning barbecue. They do it right here, slow-smoking the meats onsite over fruity cherry wood. Folks come from all around for heaping platters of St. Louis style ribs, pulled pork, chopped chicken, beef brisket and all those delicious side dishes. Old-fashioned milkshakes are the cherry on top. $$ Bubba’s Q 820 Center Rd., Avon, 440-9377859. Former Browns player Al “Bubba” Baker has discovered life beyond the

PLUS

9999. Longtime Cleveland chef Zach Bruell’s salon is as chic as can be, with precise but unpretentious fare that finds its heart in classical technique and its soul in contemporary artistry. Options include excellent sushi, plenty of seafood and such bistro standards as juicy grilled chicken with tarragon-scented pommes frites. $$$

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A Meal for Every Budget ers

A guide for princesses and paup by douglas trattner FOR SOME FOODS, IT DOESN’T

make sense to pinch pennies. When you order discount steak or sushi, you likely get your money’s worth and much less. But for others, there’s nothing wrong with seeking out the more reasonable option when money’s tight and saving the gold standard for payday. Here are some high — and low — dining options that will accommodate every budget. PIZZA

High-Roller | Sure, pizza is like sex: Even when it’s bad it’s good. But on rare occasions pizza is like sex because it’s so damn good. That’s the case at Fahrenheit (2417 Professor Ave., 216-781-8858, chefroccowhalen.com), where chef Rocco Whalen turns out lobster pizzas — a bargain at $20 — topped with butterpoached lobster tail, melty brie, oven-roasted tomatoes and chives. You’ll have to provide your own cigarette.

Low-Baller | Pizzas start at just $9 at Gillespie’s Map Room (1281 W. 9th St., 216621-7747, maproomcleveland. com), but we’d be willing to pay a few bucks more at certain hours of the day (and by day, we mean night). Built atop a great crust, and topped — in the case of the popular Deluxe — with pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, onions and green peppers, the pies are every bit as good as married sex. SUSHI

High-Roller | Ginko (2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1202, restaurantdante.us) sets the standard for sushi in Cleveland, with the highest quality fish and seafood cut by the most skillful hands in the region. Ruby-red tuna, coral colored salmon, head-on sweet shrimp, thinly sliced abalone, creamy sea urchin — all of it is heavenly, and amply priced. Low-Baller | Yes, we just said discount sushi is for suckers,

El Carnicero on Detroit.

but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a sushi feast for less than the cost of a car payment. For years, Sushi 86 (509 Prospect Ave., 216-621-8686, sushi86.com) has been keeping downtown Cleveland swimming in delicious, affordable and, yes, fresh sushi. The key to reasonably priced sushi is to limit the menu to pieces and rolls built around as few moving parts as possible. BEEF

High-Roller | If you’re looking for the best steak money can buy — a properly aged, cut and trimmed USDA Prime New York strip, for example — then you go to a place like Red, the Steakhouse (417 Prospect Ave., 216-6640941, redthesteakhouse.com), where you will pay $45 for the pleasure. But what pleasure it is. Low-Baller | For less than half the price of the high-roller option, diners can tuck into a juicy, flavorful and immensely satisfying grilled and sliced hangar steak at Fat Cats (2061 West 10th St., 216-579-0200, coolplacestoeat.com). What’s more, the price includes tater tots, grilled beans and that irreplaceable cool Tremont atmosphere. PASTA

Red, the Steakhouse in downtown Cleveland.

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High-Roller | The Pasta Tasting Menu at Trentina (1902 Ford Dr., 216-421-2900, restauranttrentina.com) will set diners back a cool $60, but what follows is a roller coaster ride of starchy delights. The seven-

course menu ushers guests on a mini-vacay through the Trentina Alto-Adige region of Northern Italy. No passport required. Low-Baller | Diners might require a mini-vacay — at least a long nap — after polishing off the immense and immensely satisfying lasagna at Bruno’s Ristorante (2644 West 41st St., 216-9617087, brunosristorante.net), a neighborhood gem for nearly 20 years. This fat stack of multilayered goodness weighs in at a good two pounds and costs just $16. TACOS

High-Roller | What with all the Taco Tuesday hoopla, it might sound insane to drop $15 on tacos. But when those tacos are the intensely flavored al pastor variety at El Carnicero (16918 Detroit Ave., 216-2263415, elcarnicerolakewood. com), exceptions are made. Slow cooked, aggressively seasoned and paired with warm corn tortillas, these tacos are appropriate every day of the week. Low-Baller | Show up at Parkview Nite Club (1261 West 58th St., 216-961-1341, parkviewniteclub.com) on a Tuesday and your money will go farther than a dollar-bill paper airplane. Two soft or crispy flour tortillas come filled with your choice of black beans, ground beef, grilled tuna or the house favorite smoked and shredded pork — all for south of $3. #flavor2014

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Listings ITALIAN / PIZZA Angelo’s Pizza 13715 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-221-0440. There are pizzas. And then there are Angelo’s pizzas: plump, fragrant works of art, from the thick provolone topping all the way down to the rich, yeasty crust. The chicken club is good, the veggie is great and the creamy, cheesy seafood pizza, topped with lobster cream, shrimp, crabmeat and fresh spinach, is the stuff of which our dreams are made. Salads, sandwiches, wings, a few pasta platters and a worthwhile beer list round out the menu at this good-looking spot. $$ Bruno’s Ristorante 2644 W. 41st St., 216-9617087. Stepping into this cozy neighborhood ristorante – with its wooden bar, linoleum floors, and menu of pizza, pasta, and assorted parmigianas, cacciatores, and marsalas – is like traveling back in time to the days when Italian restaurateurs baked their own breads, made their own pastas, and served it all in charming, intimate spaces. Almost everything on the “fullmeal deal” menu is delish. But when it comes to fried calamari and baked lasagna, Bruno’s scores among the very best. $$$ Carrie Cerino’s Ristorante 8922 Ridge Rd., N. Royalton, 440-237-3434. This venerable Italian restaurant features hearty Northern Italian fare, with an expansive menu of made-from-scratch pastas, sauces, breads, and desserts. $$$ D’Agnese’s 1100 W. Royalton Rd. 440-237-

7372. A longtime neighborhood favorite, D’Agnese’s serves up authentic and comforting Italian with an emphasis on veal, chicken, seafood and pasta. And at its current new(ish) location after 20 years in business, it continues to dazzle for all occasions, be it a casual dinner or date or a festive celebration. $$

D.C. Pasta Co. 12214 Pearl Rd., Strongsville, 440-238-8500. Chef Dante Boccuzzi’s third Cleveland restaurant, D.C. makes high-quality, house-made pastas fun and affordable. Sold by portion size – taste, appetizer, or main – the various combinations can be mixed and matched to create a wide-ranging feast. The rest of the menu is equally accessible, with sections for cured meats, Italian cheeses, marinated veggies, meatballs, entrées – even olives. Top it all off with 25 bottles of Italian wine priced south of $25 and you have the makings of an affordable Italian banquet. $$-$$$ Eddie’s Pizzeria Cerino 7305 Broadview Rd., Seven Hills, 216-236-6007. Too often, Italian joints go heavy on the comfort and light on the quality. Not so here where owner Eddie Cerino approaches traditional Italian food less like a grandmother and more like a chef. And thanks to half orders of salad and pasta, diners have control over portion size and price. The same goes for Cerino’s Lakewood outpost, which is cozy, busy, and slings a perfect menu of Italian favorites that don’t skimp on quality. $$-$$$

Ferrara’s 5750 Mayfield Rd. 440-442-3700. From deli cuts to prepared foods and all your needs via Italy, Ferrara’s is your hometown authentic grocer. Who can resist meats and cheeses, mozzarella and provolone and pepperoni and prosciutto? Exactly nobody, that’s who. Stop by for the best of the rest too, from sauces to pasta, party trays to olive oils and bakery and lunch. $-$$

Maxi’s 12113 Mayfield Rd. 216-421-1500. Like an old friend, Maxi’s is always there when you need her. For 15 years, this romantic Little Italy gem has been keeping neighbors and visitors happy the easy way: by dishing up consistently delicious plates of soul satisfying Italian foods, namely pastas, pizza and veal-based entrees. Dim, slim and sexy, Maxi’s is always the right choice for date night. $$-$$$

Flour 34205 Chagrin Blvd., Moreland Hills, 216-464-3700. After 25 years in Little Italy, Paul Minnillo has moved to the suburbs with this contemporary restaurant serving modern regional Italian cuisine. The far-ranging menu includes small-plate-style antipasti and creative greens, as well as silken pastas and hearty entrées. A woodfired pizza oven turns out killer Neapolitan-style pies. A deep Italian wine list and a patio round out this East Side gem. $$$

Osteria di Valerio & Al 408 W. St. Clair Ave., 216-685-9490. The anonymous phrasemaker who said “Good things come in small packages” surely didn’t have this tiny Italian restaurant in mind, but he could have: The Warehouse District’s smallest upscale dining room more than compensates with big quotas of flavor and style. $$$

Mama Santa’s 12305 Mayfield Rd., 216-4212159. Every college campus needs a nearby spot like Mama Santa’s, with its retro vibe, cheap wine, and stunningly inexpensive Italian eats. Thin, greaseless, crisp-crusted pizza is the specialty of the casa; when you and the gang can score a 15-incher for less than 10 bucks, who cares if there’s a wait for a table? $-$$ Marotta’s 2289 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216932-9264. We’ve seen hallways bigger than this tiny Italian restaurant, but the intimate ambiance and robust food are ample compensation for the lack of elbow room. The small menu has the usual pasta, chicken, and veal dishes, all well-prepared and flavorful. And the hand-tossed, stone-baked pizzas are notable for their crisp, almost waferthin crusts. Impressive all-Italian wine list. $$$

Porcelli’s Bistro 1852 E. 6th St., 216-574-2270. A popular lunch stop for downtown’s white-collar crew, Porcelli’s serves a simple but sophisticated menu of salads, sandwiches, and pastas, including gnocchi with pesto cream and penne with chicken, spinach, and walnuts. Prices are reasonable, particularly by downtown standards, and speedy service will get you back to the office before Scrooge even knows you’ve ducked out. $$ Primo Vino 12511 Mayfield Rd., 216-2293334. Don’t let the subterranean location fool you: This Little Italy mainstay, settled at the bottom of a long flight of stairs, is as warm and welcoming as nonna’s kitchen, with a neighborly vibe and the wallet-friendly prices to match. Offerings are mostly traditional Italian – pastas, polenta, eggplant parmesan – with a few stylish twists. And to drink, check out the short but interesting list of wines-by-the-glass. $$-$$$

Bistro 83 invites guests to discover the sensational flavors of a seasonally-inspired menu and an international wine list in a casually-sophisticated ambiance. Our dining choices are expertly designed to excite and surprise the palate, featuring wine selections that personalize the dining experience. Whether it’s fine dining, a casual event, a cocktail after work or a private function that you’re after, Bistro 83 has everything to indulge your senses, but always with a sense of fun!

36033 WESTMINISTER AVE., N. RIDGEVILLE, OHIO 440.353.2828 / Mon.-Thurs. 11AM-10PM / Fri. & Sat. 11AM - 11PM

Best Casual Dining Best Patio Dining

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THE PREMIER BISTRO AND WINE BAR ON THE WESTSIDE

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Listings Ristorante Stella Mia 28751 Center Ridge Rd., Westlake, 440-250-2143. We’re blessed in Northeast Ohio with a cornucopia of beloved neighborhood Italian gems, but this Westlake newcomer has quickly risen to the top of its local bracket by upping every aspect of the ristorante game. Setting, food and service here combine to form the kind of lasting memories that used to be commonplace. Classics like stuffed peppers, mussels in wine sauce, eggplant parmesan, spaghetti with meatballs, veal satimbocca and osso bucco all hit the table with an impressive splash. $$ Trentina 1902 Ford Dr., 216-421-2900. James Beard-nominated chef Jonathon Sawyer’s new Italian restaurant brings sparkling life back to the old Sergio’s space in University Circle. The attractive 35seat restaurant is an ideal setting for the northern Italian-inspired foods that Sawyer and chef Matt Danko are creating. Diners can look forward to creative cocktails, fresh pastas, adventurous tasting menus, and al fresco dining on the restaurant’s picturesque front patio. $$$$ Valerio’s 12405 Mayfield Rd., 216-4218049. Unless your mama is from Naples, we’ll wager that the meals you serve aren’t nearly half as good as Valerio’s rustic, unpretentious food. And we doubt that you employ a staff of tall, slender waiters, who roam the room like dashing exclamation points. All-Italian wine list. $$$

Introducing...

Sushi BentoBox Choice of:

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN Adega 2017 E 9th St., 216-2391200. Adega, the feature restaurant at The 9, the high-end hotel and residence complex in the former Ameritrust buildings, is as grand and impressive as one might expect given the setting. The focus here is on modern Mediterranean cuisines, plucking flavor profiles from Greece, Italy, Spain and other Mediterranean cuisines. Everything is prepared from scratch under the watchful eye of chef Eddie Tancredi. $$$-$$$$

Sushi and Teriyaki Chicken Sushi and Tempura Sushi and Grilled Salmon Sushi and Sashimi

Beachcliff Market Square 19300 Detroit Road, Rocky River 440.333.9902 www.pearlwest.com

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Vero Bistro 12421 Cedar Rd., Cleveland Heights, 216-229-8383. Boasting one of the very few wood-burning ovens in town, Vero turns out some of the most authentic Neapolitan-style pizza around. Owner Marc-Aurele Buholzer inherited the oven – and the space – from the previous tenant, La Gelateria. The gelato is the same, but the pizza is much improved. An airy, chewy edge blistered with char gives way to a thin, crisp inner crust supporting a few choice ingredients. These pies are meant to be enjoyed fresh from the oven. $$

Americano at Bratenahl Place Club 1 Bratenahl Pl., Bratenahl, 216-541-3900. The dining room at this posh twin-condo complex has been the site of numerous short-lived restaurants. But if any endeavor has reason to survive it is Americano, an impressive Euro-American bistro. An ambitious kitchen crafts its own charcuterie, pickles, condiments and breads. The at-times-brilliant bistro fare straddles the line between classic French and seasonal American, with prices thankfully in line with the latter. Enjoy mussels, crab cakes, steak frites, beef Bourguignon and seared scallops. Full bar and wine list. $$$

Der Braumeister 13046 Lorain Ave. 216671-6220. For Germans and non-Germans alike, Cleveland’s Der Braumeister German Bier Haus is one of the coolest joints around and one of the longest-operating joints slinging German comfort food. And beyond the schnitzel, which is amazing, they also have killer wings. Served whole, we recommend the wings tossed in the house-made Düsseldorf mustard. Don’t forget the sauerkraut balls, or the strudels, or the potato pancakes or... Well, just order it all. $$ Felice Urban Café 12502 Larchmere Blvd., 216-791-0918. If you think Fat Cats is cool, you’ll definitely love Felice. This cozy eatery is tucked inside a restored Craftsman-style home on the ShakerCleveland border. Awaiting diners is unfussy and affordable Mediterranean fare, much of it with a decidedly Spanish flair. There’s chorizo-spiked mussels, lamb sliders, skirt steak chimichurri and garlicky seafood stew. Full bar, wine and beer. Outdoor patio. $$ Hofbräuhaus Cleveland 1550 Chester Ave., 216-621-2337. Affiliated with the original in Munich, Germany, this $8-million, 20,000-square-foot, 1,700seat restaurant and brewery opened in Playhouse Square. The destination attraction features world-famous Hofbrau beer, which is brewed on premises using the original recipes, plus German comfort foods like potato pancakes, weisswurst, schnitzel and braised pork shank. Expect a party atmosphere every night of the week. $$ Luxe Kitchen & Lounge 6605 Detroit Ave., 216-920-0600. This welcoming bistro brings approachable, affordable, and delicious Mediterranean-inspired food to the Detroit-Shoreway neighborhood. Shabby-chic with a farmhouse twist, the restaurant features mix-and-match plates, kitchen-towel napkins, and repurposed fixtures. With a host of small plates, shared plates, pastas, pizzas, and prix fixe dinners, the menu has options for every mood and budget. $$$ Mallorca 1390 W. 9th St., 216-687-9494. Mallorca, with its large portions of classic Spanish dishes and formal, friendly service, has developed a devoted following. Best bets include paella Valenciana – a generous portion of shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, half-lobster tail, chicken, and chorizo sausage in a saffron-flavored seafood broth. $$$-$$$$ Sans Souci 24 Public Square, 216-9024095. Under the guidance of well-seasoned chef Brett Montgomery, this 20-year-old restaurant in the downtown Renaissance Hotel seems reinvigorated. Much of that comes from Montgomery’s decision to highlight local products on his MedAmerican menu, an urge that extends from precisely prepared dinner entries like Lake Erie walleye and Ohio City Pasta pierogi to the cheeses, sausages, and even the maple syrup on the groaning breakfast buffet. $$$-$$$$ Santorini Taverna 1382 W. 9th St. Tommy Karakostas is on a roll. He opened his popular Lakewood eatery Greek Village Grille – voted Best Greek Restaurant by

Scene readers – in 2009. He followed that up with a new Greek Village in Broadview Heights in 2013. Soon he will open his new spot on W. 9th. At lunch, Santorini will offer the same type of quick, affordable pita sandwiches that Lakewood is known and adored for. Dinner will feature a more ambitious menu comprised of Greekstyle “meze,” or small plates, as well as shared platters and both traditional and contemporary Greek entrees. $-$$

Sokolowski’s University Inn 1201 University Rd. 216-771-9236. As residents of the chilly Midwest, we instinctively turn to full-flavored, rib-sticking, carb-loaded comfort foods to survive the season. And there’s no better source than Sokolowski’s University Inn. The homestyle cooking at this Tremont institution strikes a deep chord with Clevelanders, but it’s also Stop No. 1 for visitors, who travel here to experience a true taste of our Eastern European roots. Working down the cafeteria line, guests load their trays with pierogies, Salisbury steak, stuffed cabbage and chicken paprikash. The suckers hit the salad bar. Everything is made from scratch and tastes that way. Bring on the long winter’s nap. $$ Sterle’s Country House 1401 East 55th St., 216-881-4181. For almost 50 years, this Central European polka palace has been dishing out family-style fare at walletfriendly prices. The all-inclusive dinners include chicken soup, salad, bread and butter, Wiener schnitzel, roast pork, smoked kielbasa, sauerkraut, potatoes, veggies, coffee and dessert. Or, order from the menu’s listing of numerous veal, pork and chicken dishes. Live music and dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. $$-$$$ Tartine Bistro 19110 Old Detroit Rd., Rocky River, 440-331-0800. We hesitate to call this sweet little spot a French bistro, if only to avoid conjuring images of gilded mirrors and framed absinthe prints. Tartine is a warm neighborhood tavern that happens to serve French-inspired fare, gallons of red wine, and armfuls of good cheer. Plus, there’s really good pizza! A small kitchen puts out not only small plates, but also sandwiches (tartines), right-sized entrées, and classic desserts. $$ ASIAN / INDIAN / MIDDLE EASTERN Aladdin’s Eatery 14536 Detroit Rd., Lakewood, 216-521-4005. Aladdin’s serves a variety of simply prepared, Middle Eastern-inspired foods, including homemade soups, salads, pita wraps, steamed veggie plates, and pita “pizzas.” Choices for vegetarians abound, and freshly squeezed juices, fruit smoothies, and a small selection of beers and wines are available. $$ Benihana 23611 Chagrin Blvd. 216-4647575 Sure, hibachi might be your go-to for birthday celebrations or date night, but Benihana and the onion volcano and juicy meats cooked right in front of you is irresistible at any time, if you think about it. Whether you fancy chicken, shrimp or steak (or all of them, right?) straight from the hibachi grill or sushi, whether you’re hunkered down for a proper dinner or looking for a fast lunch, the food is what you expect it to be and the spectacle makes it all the better. $$ Café Tandoor 2096 S. Taylor Rd., Cleveland

Hts., 216-371-8500. One of the region’s first Indian restaurants, Café Tandoor is notable for its large, well-organized menu and its complex blends of flavors. Don’t miss the remarkably fresh and sweet-tasting navaratana curry or the profoundly flavored mango chutney. $$-$$$

Ginko 2247 Professor Ave., 216-2741202. Having worked at famed Nobu, chef Dante Boccuzzi had lofty aspirations when creating Ginko, his subterranean sushi restaurant that sits below the chef’s eponymous Dante. As a result, Ginko is a paean to fish, most of it raw, some of it rolled, all of it exceptional. Diners seated at one of the two booths can also enjoy shabu shabu, Japanese-style fondue. Beer, wine, and sake are available. $$$-$$$$ Ginza Sushi & Steak House 1105 Carnegie Ave., 216-589-8503. One of the city’s first sushi houses, Ginza remains a mostly hidden treasure, catering to a loyal crowd of whitecollar regulars, who stop by to enjoy the serene decor, the low-key vibe, and the big menu of sushi, sashimi, and hibachi faves. $$-$$$ Ha-Ahn 3030 Superior Ave., 216-6641152. Settled inside the Golden Plaza, this modest bistro offers a full lineup of Korean specialties, including a version of bibimbap that is out of this world. $-$$ India Garden 18405 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-221-0676. Small, friendly, and featuring the usual lineup of Northern Indian curries, biryanis, and tandoori preparations, this nicely appointed eatery has plenty to offer vegetarians and carnivores alike. And for those seeking the unusual, a handful of Indo-Chinese dishes (check out the “Manchurian-style” stir-fried cauliflower) adds a global twist. Daily lunch buffet. $$$

Breakfast

Monday-Friday 7am-11:30am Saturday-Sunday 8am-3pm

Lunch

Monday-Friday 11:30am-3pm Dinner

Friday-Saturday 3pm-10pm

2621 W.14th street rumpy’s cleveland, Oh 44113 afe www.grumpys-café.com 216-241-5025

Indian Flame 11623 Euclid Ave., 216791-5555. While small and cramped, the Flame is reliably consistent at delivering delicious and reasonably priced Indian fare. The sizable menu contains both dependable favorites and opportunities for adventure, like the matchless goat curry. A thriving lunch buffet attracts Indian food fans like moths to a, well, flame. $$ Li Wah 2999 Payne Ave., 216-589-9552. Located in the Asian Plaza – a three-floor complex of professional offices, gift shops, herb stores, and Asian food markets – Li Wah offers an assortment of traditional dim sum as well as a large menu of fresh seafood and authentic Hong Kong-style cuisine. Dim sum is served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. $$ Map of Thailand 3710 Payne Ave., 216361-2220. Asiatown’s only restaurant dedicated solely to Thai food, Map is making friends fast. While the menu may seem familiar, the precisely executed dishes exiting the kitchen are no run-of-the-mill fare. Don’t miss the beef jerky starter, larb salad, country-style pad Thai, and duck in green curry. $$ Miega Korean BBQ 3820 Superior Rd., 216-432-9200. Located on the second floor of Asian Town Center, this Korean restaurant is bright, modern, and roomy. Meals begin with cups of nutty barley tea and a huge spread of panchan: pungent side dishes that range from fiery kimchi to steamed broccoli. Miega prepares its

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Listings flavorful kalbi and bulgogi atop a tabletop hot plate. The galbi dolsot bibimbap – rice, beef, veggies, and a fried egg served in a sizzling earthenware bowl – is one of the best in the city. $$-$$$

Minh Anh 5428 Detroit Ave., 216-9619671. Small, casual and friendly, this family-owned Vietnamese restaurant serves cinnamon-scented pho, colossal crêpes and an assortment of tasty noodle bowls, along with plenty of vegetarian options. $$ Nate’s Deli and Restaurant 1923 W. 25th St., 216-696-7529. When it comes to freshly made Middle Eastern foods, Nate’s is great. Especially beloved for its thick, smooth hummus with a texture like whipped butter, Nate’s also makes smoky baba ghannouj, crisp fried kibbeh, and tender, plump meat or spinach pies. If your tastes run to more traditional deli fare, try a king-sized cornedbeef or pastrami sandwich. Service is casual and friendly, and the place has the feel of a neighborhood cornerstone. $-$$ Ninja City 11311 Euclid Ave., 216-8600510. High-spirited and fun, Ninja City has quickly wheedled its way into the good graces of time-strapped, budget-crunched diners in University Circle thanks to a streamlined system that employs a checkliststyle menut of approachable pan-Asian items that tops out at $8.95. Owner Bac Nguyen

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distills down the most popular items and recipes from Bac Asian Bistro in Tremont into a simplified operation that focuses on efficiency, value and fun. $$

Noodlecat 234 Euclid Ave., 216-589-0007. Fun and funky, downtown’s only Japanesestyle ramen house offers an array of noodle bowls ranging from the traditional to the contemporary. Creative sides and add-ons allow slurpers to customize their bowls in almost endless ways, while a tight selection of cold sake, beer, wine, and creative cocktails adds to the merriment. $$$ #1 Pho 3120 Superior Ave., 216-781-1176. Like a golden yolk buried in the center of a moon cake, the tastefully decorated #1 Pho is a bright spot in the sometimes-gritty neighborhood around East 31st and Superior. Among the many tasty Vietnamese dishes on the well-organized menu, our fave is pho – big bowls of traditional noodle soup served with basil, lime, hoisin and other aromatic go-withs. But items such as chicken-cabbage salad and spicy squid are also fragrant, subtle and full of nuance. Plenty of vegetarian options. $$ Pearl of the Orient 19300 Detroit Rd. 440333-9902. With a handsome lounge, a shady porch, and a pan-Asian menu that includes Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai standards, as well as sushi and even some gently handled

Find more listings on page 37 fusion fare, the Pearl is a gem for casual dining. Small but thoughtful wine list. $$

Phnom Penh 1929 W. 25th St., 216-3572951. A second outpost for the West Side’s favorite Cambodian restaurant, this location offers the same giant, slightly perplexing menu as the original, along with convenient parking and urbane decor. $$ Shinto 17070 Pearl Rd. 440-878-3868. This Japanese steakhouse and sushi bar opened down in Strongsville years ago and has kept momentum strong. Whether it’s for half-price sushi on Tuesday nights or any of the other specials during the week, there isn’t a bad day to make the trip for an entertaining and delicious hibachi experience or a sushi feast beyond compare. $-$$ Siam Café 3951 St. Clair Ave., 216361-2323. Neat, tidy, and friendly, this multicultural restaurant in the heart of Asia Town serves an enormous variety of authentic Asian eats, most with an emphasis on seafood. Ingredients are fresh, flavors are nuanced and masterfully balanced, and prices are notable values, particularly during the bustling lunch hours. $$-$$$ Taza 28601 Chagrin Blvd., Woodmere, 216464-4000. A sort of grown-up version of the health-conscious, vegetarian-friendly Aladdin’s Eateries, Taza is all that – and a full bar too. Despite the handsome decor and upscale appointments, the casual attitude

and big menu of Lebanese standards will strike a familiar note with Aladdin’s fans. Other upgrades include freshly baked pita, kebabs taken straight off the charcoal grill, and a big assortment of traditional Middle Eastern meze, just right for sharing around the table. $$$

Tomo Sushi Bar and Hibachi Restaurant and Lounge 1293 W. 9th St. 216-6964444. Four floors and over 100 tables of bursting Asian flavors await you in the Warehouse District. From standard fare like tempura and fried rice to a seemingly endless hibachi menu list (lamb, swordfish, lobster and snapper are four options we bet you won’t find anywhere else), plus an extensive offering of fresh and delicious sushi, Tomo has something for everyone and a dynamic and hip atmosphere to boot. $$-$$$ Umami Asian Kitchen 42 North Main St., Chagrin Falls, 440-247-8600. What this jewel box of a bistro lacks in size, it more than makes up for in style, thanks to an umami-filled contemporary Asian menu. There are nods to Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisine, with stellar ingredients buoyed by complementary flavors and spices. Sushi and seafood shine, as do heartier meats like pork belly and duck. Vegetarians can even dine well on crispy tofu and pad Thai. $$$

#flavor2014

scene scene

Eats by Streets dining in Your indispensable guide to od every Cleveland neighborho by scene dining editors

WHAT TO EAT? When to eat?

Where to eat? These are the questions that, like ticks on a clock, propel us through our gluttonous days. To answer one without the others is an exercise in futility, because Italian in Ohio City at Breakfast makes about as much sense as Delicatessen in Westlake at Ever. Here, then, is a helpful guide to Meals by Occasion by Neighborhood, so you never again have to wander the streets of Tremont in search of a datefriendly wine bar. CLEVELAND HEIGHTS

When it comes to dining diversity, Cleveland Heights is all over the map – both literally and culinarily speaking. There’s Chinese on Coventry, pizza in Cedar-Fairmount and Turkish on Lee. Got an early business meeting planned? Check out the roomy new Phoenix Coffee (1793 Coventry Rd., 216-932-5282, phoenixcoffee.com) on Coventry, which relocated down the road into a prized corner spot. Cleveland’s favorite coffee never looked better. If you want to have breakfast in 1969, step into Irv’s Sandwich Shop (2164 S. Taylor Rd., 216-321-6812), a toothpick of a diner that serves up delicious, fast and cheap meals at one long counter. Grab a wobbly stool and enjoy over-stuffed omelets and home fries, pancakes and bacon, and breakfast sammies to go. Most folks know of On the Rise (3471 Fairmount Blvd., 216-320-9923, ontheriseartisanbreads. com) for its artisan baked breads and pastries. But come lunchtime, the line out the door is for sandwiches, not scones. Matchless banh mis, grass-fed corned beef, and even housemade burrata sandwiches are

calling your name. Look at you out on a hot date. If you want to score some points in the what-a-pleasantsurprise category, take your companion for a pre-dinner cocktail at Gigi’s on Fairmount (3477 Fairmount Blvd., 216291-7237, gigisonfairmount. com). What this glitzy newcomer lacks in roominess it more than makes up for in romance. Drink wine and nibble charcuterie and cheese by candlelight. Self-serve yogurt shops are all the rage come dessert time, but the good folks at Piccadilly Artisan Yogurt (1767 Coventry Rd., piccadillyartisanyogurt. com) do it right, using milk and cream from local, grass-fed cows, and organic sugar and fruit. ASIATOWN

While we rightfully think of Asiatown as the epicenter of exotic eats, there’s much more to enjoy here than just noodles, dumplings and rice. Sure, Slyman’s (3106 St. Clair Ave., 216-621-3760, slymans.com) is the king of corned beef, but show up a few hours earlier and you’ll find the place lousy with breakfast junkies. And why not? With house faves like corned beef hash and eggs, hotcakes and ham, and sausage-stuffed omelets, you’ll be set until dinner. If you’re more of a drive-by breakfast guy, swing by Koko Bakery (3710 Payne Ave., 216881-7600) to grab a baby soft bun from the self-serve display. Think of them as savory Asian donuts, filled with BBQ pork, curried beef, or even ham and eggs. Wash it all down with a cup of warm almond tea. Ha Ahn (3030 Superior Ave., 216-664-1152) is a tiny restaurant tucked inside a nondescript building on the edge of town. But if you love Korean food, it’s worth seeking out for a satisfying lunch. From

“Never judge a wine bar” — from Gigi’s on Fairmount.

the sizzling-hot Bi Bim Bop to the simmering bowls of veggieladen tofu soup, all of it is fresh, delicious and reasonably priced. Bright, modern and attractive, Han Chinese Kabob & Grill (3710 Payne Ave., 216-769-8745) doesn’t look like most Chinese restaurants. Designed to appeal to a younger generation of Asian-born diners, the food here is culled from Northern regions, with charcoalfired lamb kebobs, cold poached chicken, and crispy whole fried fish splayed across most dinner tables. LITTLE ITALY / UNIVERSITY CIRCLE

In just a few short years, this neighborhood has revolutionized its food scene, adding great independent options that fill the void between fast and fancy. And it ain’t done yet. Now that Rising Star Coffee Roasters (2187 Murray Hill Rd., risingstarcoffee.com) has landed in Little Italy, early risers make a bee-line to the corner of Murray Hill and Edghill. There they find the same beans, equipment and expertise that they’ve come to rely on in Ohio City. Lunch time is the right time to enter Ninja City (11311 Euclid Ave., 216-8600510, ninjacity.com), a lively, streamlined spin-off of Bac Asian Bistro in Tremont. A checklist-style menu flush with inexpensive ramen, rice and noodle bowls, along with steam buns and banh mi sandwiches, makes this joint popular with budget-crunched diners. If you’re headed to nearby Severance Hall – or dinner elsewhere in the neighborhood

– stop by the impossibly cute Coquette Patisserie (11607 Euclid Ave., 216-331-2841, coquettepatisserie.com) for a pre-dinner aperitif. Champagne is served by the glass, oysters served on the half shell, and savory nibbles like mini quiches, tarts and smörgåstårta presented with flair. Across the street is another Ohio City import, Crop Kitchen (11460 Uptown Ave., 216-6962767, cropkitchen.com), a more casual offshoot of Crop Bistro. Dinners here are built around sandwiches, sushi and a handful of nightly specials, all dished up in a dramatic but informal space. Why go home when you can stroll over to ABC the Tavern (11434 Uptown Ave., 216-7211511, abcthetavern.com) for a nightcap. While more toneddown than the original on W. 25th Street, this classic bar has all the right elixirs – and pub grub, should you need it – to wind down a hectic day. OHIO CITY

Getting a great meal in Ohio City is about as difficult as getting baked in Denver. While development has slowed down of late (largely because there’s no room left), the delicious remnants of the recent boom are everywhere. With a lengthy list of certified organic teas – brewed right, served right – Cleveland Tea Revival (1434 W. 29th St., 216-795-5099, clevelandtearevival.com) coaxes folks into their days in classic #Hingetown style. Mornings here are peaceful, elegant and quietly invigorating. Jack Flaps (3900 Lorain

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Ave., 216-961-5199, jack-flaps. com) is to breakfast what George Clinton is to jazz: things get a little funky up in here. This trim, tidy and ever-so-edgy storefront slides out sweet and savory day-starters like the signature buttermilk “jackflaps” or breakfast burritos crammed full of braised beef and eggs. If it’s lunchtime on a Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday, queue up at Crepes de Luxe (1979 W. 25th St., 216-6212479, crepesdeluxe.com) in the West Side Market for the best Parisian-style street crêpes in town. Sweet and savory options include banana, Nutella and powdered sugar or ham, egg, and gruyere. You might know Orale (1834 W. 25th St., 216-862-3117, oralecmc.com) for its popular Mexican foods stand in the West Side Market, but it runs a great little Mexican restaurant down the road. A recent expansion has added a bar, making dinner here all the better. It’s late, you just tipped back a few pints at Platform Beer, and you’re not quite ready to call it a night. No problem, just cross the street and grab a stool at Old Fashion Hot Dogs (4008 Lorain Ave., 216-631-4460) for a midnight snack. Nothing sets you straight better than a chili cheese dog with mustard – or three – before bedtime. DETROIT SHOREWAY

With arts and entertainment at its heart, Detroit Shoreway is a go-to destination that lights up the night. This high octane neighborhood boasts enough unique dining options to support its out-on-the-town hot spots. Whether just starting your day or gathering for a leisurely afternoon rendezvous, Gypsy Bean & Bakery (6425 Detroit Ave., 216939-9009) is more than a coffee shop; it’s a neighborhood meeting place. Cleverly blended coffees are concocted alongside fresh pastries while oversized windows give a glimpse at one of the busiest corners in the city. Cozy up at Toast (1365 W 65th St., 216-862-8974, toastcleveland.com) for a predinner Prohibition-era cocktail or glass of wine from a selection that leaves room for the unconventional. The balance of a rustic-chic wine bar and warm atmosphere makes for a perfect

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Eats by Streets setting to share small plates and small chat. Continue your evening of artistic surprises with dinner at Spice Kitchen (5800 Detroit Ave., 216-961-9637, spicekitchenandbar.com), the perfect blend of stylish, friendly and refined. Serving up a rotating menu of seasonal fare, Spice dishes up seasonal offerings straight from the chef’s own hoop house and farm. Few after-dinner treats have as much sweet charm as a milkshake shared at the quaint ‘40s-inspired counter of Sweet Moses Soda Fountain (6800 Detroit Ave., 216-651-2202, sweetmosestreats.com). If your cravings lean more indulgent, sundaes built with house-churned ice cream are served up until close at this nod to Happy Days past. It’s getting late and you could really use a nightcap and some nibbles. Welcome to Battery Park’s newest concept, CHA Pizza Kitchen (7524 Father Frascati Dr., 216-631-9242, chapizzabatterypark.com), which serves hand-crafted pizzas paired with wine clear up to midnight. TREMONT

When it comes to eats, Tremont’s got range. From fivestar sushi to five-napkin burgers, this historic food burg has all bases covered. Not many record shops roast their own coffee beans in-house, but LOOP (2180 W 11th St., 216-298-5096) is anything but typical. This quirky, independent, art-driven coffee shop is a great place to ease into the day. Sip coffee, peruse the new and used vinyl, and nibble on a muffin in a cocoon of serenity. Crust (1020 Kenilworth Ave., 216-583-0257, crusttremont. com) is rightly known for its hand-tossed pizzas, which are sold whole and by the slice. But it’s the subs – built with just the right ratio of filling to fresh-baked bread – that keep us coming back for lunch. We’re partial to the Eggplant Parm, with breaded eggplant, provolone and marinara. Visit Press Wine Bar (2221 Professor Ave., 216-566-9463, presswinebar.com) during happy hour to sample wine on tap, if you have yet to do so. This lively wine bar usually has a nice little selection of reds and whites by

coming soon december 2014

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the glass on tap, which stays fresh until the very end of the keg. Order some crispy calamari or some charcuterie if you’re hungry. If you like sushi and have not yet dined at Ginko (2247 Professor Ave., 216-274-1202, restaurantdante.us), it goes without saying that you don’t know what you’re missing. So we’ll tell you: simply the finest sushi in town. Sit down for dinner and order the omakase tasting, which will unleash an avalanche of brilliance. For at least 60 years, the Rowley Inn (1104 Rowley Ave., 216-7955345, rowleyinn.com) has been buried deep in a working-class neighborhood, just a short sled ride from the Christmas Story House. It’s a great place to go for an after-dinner brew and escape the “typical” Tremont crowds. LAKEWOOD

12113 Mayfield Rd, Little Italy | 216. 421.1500 maxisinlittleitaly.com 30 SCENE | FLAVOR

In recent years, Lakewood has managed to progress from a city of pubs to a bona fide dining destination. Eating one’s way through this part of town never tasted better. Take in the fresh morning aromas of Blackbird Bakery (1391 Sloane Ave., 216-7126599, blackbirdbaking.com) while picking up hot coffee and sweet pastries like airy almond croissants made from scratch daily. While you’re there, grab a loaf of their rosemary focaccia to enjoy later. We recommend bypassing basic breakfast options in favor of the well-crafted TexMex inspirations at Borderline Café (18510 Detroit Ave., 216-529-1949). But even for the traditionalist, this locally celebrated diner serves up a fine stack of hotcakes. Meet a friend for lunch at the upbeat and curiously named Jammy Buggars (15625 Detroit Ave., 216-767-5922, jammybuggars.com). Creative revamps of uncomplicated but fun classics like the Capresebased sandwich The Ex make for a something-for-everyone dining environment. An added bonus: a surprisingly crisp craft beer menu. Swing by El Carnicero (16918 Detroit Ave., 216-2263415, elcarnicerolakewood. com) for happy hour and add a little fuel to your 5 o’clock fire. Bring a group to best enjoy the full lineup of tacos and tamales

filled with everything from wild boar to brisket while sipping on margaritas that blend sugar and spice and everything nice. Don’t get lost in the sea of burgers and bar food come dinner time. Treat yourself to the hearty, satisfying fare at Eddie Cerino’s Casual Italian (14725 Detroit Ave., 440-799-4554, eddiecerinos.com), where modern takes on classic Italian dishes are delicious, approachable and affordable. DOWNTOWN

These are heady times for downtown dining. After a few stagnant years, when East Fourth Street was the only exciting food game in town, center-city dining is back and better than ever. Because there are few better lunch options than a steamy bowl of pho, downtown diners rejoiced when Pho Thang Café (815 Superior Ave. E., 216-2917115), a new Vietnamese joint, opened in the Superior Building. The menu offers the usual lineup of appetizers, vermicelli dishes and rice plates, but the pho here is brilliant. Every day is Oktoberfest at Hofbräuhaus Cleveland (1550 Chester Ave., 216-621-2337, hofbrauhauscleveland.com), making it the natural meeting place for a post-work gathering. When everybody is drinking German beer by the liter, things can (and do) get a little rowdy. Keep your belly full with a steady diet of huge Bavarian pretzels. Keeping the beer theme going, move the dinner party to Butcher and the Brewer (2043 E. Fourth St., 216-3310805, butcherandthebrewer. com), downtown’s second-newest brewery. This urban beer hall is loud, the beer is good, and the food wide-ranging enough to satisfy the whole group. We’re partial to the bacon-wrapped dates, pork rilletes, and smoked lamb ribs. Built by bankers, Cleveland has no shortage of historic spaces that once stashed cash. Some you can even drink in, like the brand new Vault (2017 E. 9th St., 216-2391200, metropolitancleveland.com), buried beneath the glitzy new Metropolitan at the 9 complex. After-dinner drinks here are of the pre-prohibition style, served up in a turn-of-the-century setting with jaw-dropping appeal. #flavor2014

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A great restaurant satisfies all of the senses, provides an ambiance and environment that pleases, relaxes, stimulates, fulfills, and imparts a feeling of intense, yet controlled, indulgence. Each element, from touch to sight, must be as much of an attraction as the food. Today, dining out should be as entertaining as an evening at the theater.

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Top Chefs Juan Vergara (owner, Barroco Grill) by nikki delamotte

AMALFITANA ..........................................13.50

PROSCIUTTO E ARUGULA .....................17.00

San Marzano tomatoes, roasted red peppers, smoked mozzarella, roasted garlic

Pizza Bianca, with prosciutto, arugula, Parmigiano Reggiano and EVOO

MARINARA .............................................. 9.75

QUATTRO STAGONI .............................. 15.50

San Marzano tomatoes, oregano, garlic and EVOO

MARGHERITA .........................................11.50

Margherita, with salsiccia, artichokes, mushrooms and roasted peppers

San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and EVOO

BIANCA ..................................................14.75

MARGHERITA D.O.C. .............................14.50 San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala, basil and EVOO

SALSICCIA .............................................14.50 San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, italian sausage and EVOO

FUNGHI ..................................................13.50 San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh mushrooms and EVOO

QUATTRO FORMAGGIO ........................14.75 Mozzarella, Grana Padano, Ricotta and Gorganzola

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Mozzarella, Gorganzola, Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano and EVOO

CAPRESE ............................................... 15.75 Mozzarella di bufala, cherry tomatoes, Parmigiano Reggiano, Ricotta, basil and EVOO

CLASSICO ..............................................14.75 Mozzarella di bufala, roasted tomatoes, carmelized onions, sauteed mushrooms and EVOO

ALBA .......................................................14.00 San Marzano tomatoes, capicola, arugula, fresh egg, Grana Padana and EVOO

“I TOLD MY DAD I’D GO into business with him, but we have to do it my way,” says Juan Vergara, leaning against the industrial paneling of Barroco Grill, the Colombian concept in Lakewood that he co-owns with his father. A rust-red painting clings to the wall above him. It’s his own work, hanging directly across the room from a mural he also composed of two instantly recognizable Latin American figures, Frida Kahlo and Cantinflas. It’s fitting for a restaurant that has built its popularity on an unfamiliar cuisine that’s creatively executed, just as it’s fitting for a proprietor who is an artist first and a chef as a natural second. Vergara’s experience in Cleveland began at age 11 when his father relocated the family from Colombia. “It’s the American dream — you grow up wanting to come to the U.S.” Odd jobs at mom-and-pop restaurants helped him work his way through a graphic design degree, but that’s where he intended his hospitality career to end. When his dad told him he was planning to open his own eatery, Vergara offered to help with the marketing and branding, but that was it. “In the mess of planning it just became my idea and his puttogether,” he says with a smile and a shrug. “It worked out, ever since we’ve been here, me and dad just grinding.” Though the senior Vergara had been heavily involved in the food-cart culture of his native home, he proposed an Americanized restaurant. It was Juan who brought the idea of Colombian-themed fare to the table after a trip back to visit family. “I thought, ‘This would be the bomb back in Cleveland!’” he says. “It’s taking the things we grew up with and making it in a way people understand it.

Everything me and dad come up with, it’s basically as if we made it back at home in our country — but with a little twist. He gives it that authentic spin and I deliver it.” The father-son team might strike a perfect balance, but it’s not without its ups and downs. “You have to learn how to work as a business partner and as family and you have to learn how to tell those apart.” Despite his early hesitation to give up chasing art, his background in graphics has since come full circle. In college, Vergara was like many young designers eager to cut their teeth with pro bono work. Today, many of the Latin bands he donated his services to now come by regularly to perform. The sensation overload, which Vergara admits is by design, has been so successful in turning Barroco into an authentic destination that one of the main renovations in the works is adding more floor space for dancing. It’s not the first (or last) of Barroco’s expansion plans. Earlier this year, the restaurant opened a quick-serve outpost in the Warehouse District. As Juan lays out aspirations for the future of a restaurant he had never planned on being part of, his composure veers to one of a zealous mastermind, scheming the next grand plan. “I did not want to do the restaurant thing,” he reminds us. “But once I started, I fell in love with it.” #flavor2014

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Top Chefs Diane Sikorski (Humble Pie Baking Co.) by nikki delamotte

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DIANE SIKORSKI HAD JOTTED down the name and location of the desolate Lorain Fulton Bakery many times, giving only brief consideration to its unpolished possibilities. But thanks to a little persuasion from a stranger, she’s now busy plotting to add hearth to the developing area by transforming the once-lively urban shop into the future home of Humble Pie Baking Company. From a high-top at nearby Platform Beer, Sikorski explains how the new brewery’s owner, Justin Carson, was central in her decision to procure the storefront. After hearing through the grapevine that she was looking to open a bakery in Ohio City, Carson immediately pitched her on the location. “To go into a building that had a bakery that was part of the community and turn it into something that will hopefully be another integral part, that’s really exciting,” she says, pointing down Lorain Avenue towards the future shop. “And now it’s always in the back of my mind that there are people in the neighborhood ready and willing to help.” Though Sikorski’s pie-making biz now yields up to 100 orders a week, her start seven years ago was a tad more modest. A year after moving back to her hometown of Cleveland from Detroit, her tenacious, self-taught modus operandi led her to take up baking with little more than good genes as a guide. “I come from a pie family,” she explains. “My grandmother and my mom were both great bakers. I remember being a child and my grandmother making pies and letting me crimp the crust. Not a day goes by when I’m crimping a crust that I don’t think about her.” Her mother walked her through the resilient trial and error of her adult years, offering, “It’s all in the feel. Don’t overwork it.” Eventually, she perfected her technique, the appropriately tried and true practice of cutting butter into flour for an old-fashioned flaky crust.

When it comes to explaining her approach to fillings, “balance” is the word Sikorski keeps coming back to. She relies on the perfect storm of sugar, salt and acid to coax the flavor out of fruits from nearby farms, which she freezes year-round to allow for the comforting likes of peach pies in the dead of winter. She’s since added handmade jams to her inventory after finding a diamond-in-therough copper jam pot at a thrift shop in Switzerland. It was Sikorski’s dedication to local ingredients and her constant search for fresh, local, non-hydrogenated lard that led her to Fresh Fork Market, one of her biggest breaks yet. Soon after connecting with the food subscription service, she partnered with them to distribute pies, giving her company an extra boost of exposure that aligned with her own vision. “Using local ingredients was a natural extension of how we eat at home,” she says. “We’ve been buying local produce, meat and dairy for as long as I can remember, so when I first started making pies it wasn’t even something I gave a thought to.” In the grandmother-knows-best golden days of yesteryear, fresh was always the prevailing option. It just takes someone like Sikorski to give it a modern twist. “People tap me on the shoulder at markets and say ‘I haven’t had pie like this since my grandmother’s.’ That’s the thing about pie, there’s a connection.” #flavor2014

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Top Chefs Jennifer Horvath (toast) by nikki delamotte

When it comes to steaks, we’ve got them all! Bone-in & boneless steaks are cut fresh daily by our own in-house butcher. We invite you to come and enjoy our great steaks at great prices!

3 GORGEOUS BANQUET & MEETING ROOMS

Available for any occasion! Seating 25-200

2 DINNERS FOR $15.99 Select items M-F 3:30-6:00 Sat. 3-5 and Sun. 12-4

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HOPPING OFF THE production line without missing a beat, Jennifer Horvath seems as comfortable in the kitchen as she does at a cozy, candlelit corner table at Toast. Ambitious as all hell — a sous chef at the beloved Greenhouse Tavern by 23 and head chef at this new Gordon Square destination by 25 — you would never suspect her path almost led elsewhere. In a way, it still does. She and husband Joe, who shares the head chef title at Toast, were on the fast track to buying their own farm when they heard of proprietor Jill Davis’ search for staff to open the restaurant. “We met with a chicken farmer about buying land right before we went to meet Jill and I told Joe, ‘No way, we’re not doing this,’” says Jennifer. “Then she explained the concept, walked us around and showed us the lot where we could have our hoop house. As soon as we got in the car I said, ‘When are we starting?’” Growing up in Geauga County surrounded by farmland, Jennifer’s youthful cooking obsession was fueled by small-town living. She and her father would compete with each other by preparing the same dish all week until it was just right. It was the birth of her appreciation of rustic French cuisine, which she admires for “the beauty behind taking the time to get to know an ingredient, finding its best use, and treating the ingredient with respect.” After graduating from high school and spending a few months in culinary school, Jennifer found herself in Atlanta, Ga., with family to save up money to continue her education. Her eventual homecoming became her greatest influence yet, a return to her roots in farming guided by her work at Greenhouse Tavern. It’s come to fruition in Toast’s nearby kitchen garden, with 16 beds of vegetation, hoop house and chicken coop. “Moving back, I was inspired to work with the ingredients that Ohio

has to offer,” she recounts. “The farm-to-table movement was this concept that really grabbed me and brought me back to the basics.” It was a sentiment echoed by Joe, who grew up only minutes from Jennifer, though their paths never crossed until he was hired at Greenhouse Tavern. Jennifer was his boss — “He was gunning for my job, but I understand, it’s cutthroat,” she laughs — and remained his superior until she transitioned to Noodlecat and they could begin dating. “The creativity between us never stops flowing because we’re always so excited when we’re dealing with the product from a raw standpoint. We spitfire off each other,” she says. “That’s the most fun, going home and reading cookbooks together and throwing around ideas.” Though she cherishes the 7 a.m. walks from their home to the garden to tend the crops and animals, her ultimate calling is still farm life. Within the next year, she says, they plan to have their own land. It will serve as an extension of her waste not, want not philosophy, instilled by her parents at a young age, which continues to shape her mindful approach to sustainability. “There’s just something about working with the land — there would be no chef without the grace of a farmer. And we really want to bring that full circle,” Jennifer says. “We love living in the city but we’re country kids at heart.” #flavor2014

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Ambitious wine list. And great live music. $-$$

Listings STEAKS / SEAFOOD

of the best bread services in the city. $$$-$$$$

Salmon Dave’s 19015 Old Lake Rd., Rocky River, 440-331-2739. This smart seafood restaurant has built an enviable rep on its concise menu of straightforward dishes. These days, that includes Asian-themed items like tiger shrimp yakitori, pulled-pork-filled steamed buns, and ramen noodle bowls with braised pork belly. Come Mardi Gras season, Salmon Dave’s is one of the best places to be. Full bar, extensive wine list. $$$-$$$$

PUBS / WINE + MARTINI BARS

Strip, a Steak House 36840 Detroit Rd., Avon, 440-934-9900. Housed in a 160-year-old Pennsylvania Dutch barn, this steak house is anything but old-fashioned. Owner Ron Larson spiffed up the interior in ways that will pleasantly surprise diners expecting doilies and drapes. The two-story barn features a first-floor lounge with open kitchen and a spacious loft dining room. First-rate steaks and chops share the menu with less conventional steakhouse fare, like smoked chicken, pasta Bolognese and horseradish-crusted grouper. $$$$ Urban Farmer 777 St. Clair Ave., 216-7717707. An offshoot of the uber-popular Portland restaurant of the same name, Urban Farmer is an attractive farm-to-table steakhouse located in the freshly minted Westin Downtown hotel. The meat-centric eatery boasts an ambitious butchery and charcuterie program, a huge selection of steaks and chops, over-the-top rich sides, and one

Academy Tavern 12800 Larchmere Blvd., 216229-1171. Like a well-worn couch, this vintage corner tavern may show its age, but its comfort is undeniable. For proof, just look at the diverse clientele, chowing down on big portions of hearty, inexpensive food. While the burgers are always a good bet, the eclectic offerings include everything from ham & eggs to veal Parmesan, and chicken paprikash to black-eyed peas. $$ The Brew Kettle Taproom & Smokehouse 8377 Pearl Rd., Strongsville, 440-239-8788. Casual, inexpensive, and family-friendly, this little brewpub dishes up a big assortment of smoked and barbecued meats, along with homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and entrées. Pulled pork is a particular fave – for a change of pace, try it in the barbecued spaghetti! Rotating selection of 24 beers on draft. $$ Brothers Lounge 11609 Detroit Ave. 216226-2767 A million-dollar renovation has transformed a historic but derelict space into a sharp-dressed neighborhood entertainment complex. In addition to the large music hall, this sprawling den features a cozy pub, ritzy wine bar, and alfresco patio, each with its own mood. Appetizers are beer-friendly beauties, but the best deals are the mid-priced entr&#233;es like grilled hanger steak and thick-cut pork chops.

Buckeye Beer Engine 15315 Madison Ave., Lakewood, 216-226-2337. The beer’s the thing at this hip-yet-homey Lakewood pub – more than two dozen choices on draft, including what owner Garin Wright calls “breakouts, hot stuff, and things you’ve never seen before in your life.” Still, the food is keeping up , with a satisfying assortment of burgers (including some meat-free variations) as well as salads, soups, and assorted noshes. $$ Burntwood Tavern 504 E. Washington St., Chagrin Falls, 440-318-1560. A tried-and-true combo of handsome surroundings and familiar fare makes this snug Chagrin Falls tavern a popular neighborhood spot. $$-$$$ Butcher and the Brewer 2043 East Fourth St., 216-331-0805. Tremont Taphouse principals Jason Workman, Chris Lieb and Jeff Leonard have opened a rambunctious bar, restaurant and brewery in the heart of downtown. The informal venue features communal tables for guests to grab and graze on bar snacks, charcuterie and cheese plates, sandwiches and entrees. Brewmaster Eric Anderson, working on a highly visible 10-barrel system, is turning out great beers to go with the grub. $$-$$$ Cantine Bar & Bottle 1100 W. Royalton Rd. 440-877-9399. Ross Valenti, owner of the popular Italian restaurant D’Agnese’s, was in search of the perfect location for his next concept. He had wanted to open a bar. And he found the perfect location – next to D’Agnese’s. Cantine Bar & Bottle is sleek and well-designed, and sports some 500 wine varieties and 250 beer options.

The bottle shop also offers a healthy list of small plates, shareables and appetizers that you won’t find next door. $$

Deagan’s Kitchen + Bar 14810 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-767-5775. “Gastropubs” are where ambitious cuisine collides with informality and kick-ass beer. To see what one looks, feels, and tastes like, head to Deagan’s in the heart of Lakewood. It’s a food-lover’s pub, where the chef-driven fare is good enough to earn a spot at a so-called fancy restaurant. $$ The Fairmount 2448 Fairmount Blvd., 216-2299463. It’s been three years since Jake Orosz took over ownership of The Fairmount, formerly Fairmount Martini & Wine Bar, and since then he’s been making incremental improvements to the beer, wine, craft cocktails, food and setting. An expansion into an adjacent space provided much-needed room for a new kitchen and hood system, an indoor garden delivers a steady supply of fresh herbs, and the secret-garden back patio seems to get prettier by the year. Pulled pork tacos, Tom’s Foolery Applejack-glazed turkey ribs, and banh mi sandwiches now join the already popular flatbreads, bruschetta and sandwiches. $$ Fat Head’s Brewery & Saloon 24581 Lorain Rd., N. Olmsted, 440-801-1001. Pittsburgh beer lovers will no doubt know (and love) the Fat Head’s brand. The super-popular watering hole has been a South Side fixture going on two decades. Award-winning local brewer Matt Cole has grafted a superb brewery onto that famous brand, offering fresh-made suds to go along with the mammoth Headwich sandwiches. The pub-grub menu also stocks bar munchies, salads,

STEAK SEAFOOD SUSHI Happy Hour Monday - Thursday, 5pm-7pm Friday, 4pm-7pm

Cleveland Cleveland (216) 464-7575 (216) 464-7575 23611Chagrin Chagrin Blvd. 23611 Blvd. SCENE | FLAVOR Cleveland - branding.indd 1

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Listings pizzas and barbecue. Patio. $$

Flannery’s Pub 323 Prospect Ave., 216-7817782. Flannery’s rightly has earned a reputation as one of the best places to party before and after Downtown events. Abundant, efficient and welcoming, the staff knows how to handle a crowd. But when it comes to food, this well-oiled machine often sacrifices quality for speed. Keep your expectations in check and a beer in your hand and the night should end on a high note. During summer, the generous front patio here is party central. $$ Grillers Pub 5455 State Rd. 216-741-7200 This cozy joint in Parma is one of the best options in Cleveland’s neighbor to the south for a wide range of quality local and national craft brews. Pair that with scrumptious bar food made with fresh ingredients – the wings and mac n’ cheese are two that stand out to us, as well as the outstanding burgers – and an active dart community, and you have the recipe for a great local tavern. $ The Harp 4408 Detroit Ave., 216-939-0200. The warm decor here sets the mood for an inclusive menu of Irish and American fare, ranging from boxty and shepherd’s pie to lobster pierogi. Throw in a good selection of Irish brews and spirits, along with live traditional music, and you’ve got yourself one top-notch pub. $$$ Jammy Buggars 15625 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-767-5922. While most of his Lakewood neighbors aim high or low, Jim Sprenger steers for the middle, serving good-quality grub at rational prices in a comfortable setting. Familyfriendly comfort food like chicken paprikash, fish and chips, and amazing grass-fed-beef burgers share the menu with creative sandwiches and bacon-and-cheese-topped fries. Toss in quality craft brews and attentive service, and you are indeed eatin’ good in the neighborhood. $$

Celebrate our Italian!

GATHER, SHARE & ENJOY

Market 1137 Linda St., Rocky River, 440-7994292. Market partners John Owen and Dave Rudiger have transformed a former municipal impound lot into an upscale sports bar. To go with the 100 beers and the requisite banks of flat screens, Market offers shareable starters, big salads, great sandwiches, and plenty of steaks, pastas, and seafood. A heated patio extends outdoor dining well into fall. $$$ Market Garden Brewery 1947 West 25th St., 216-621-4000. This massive Ohio City brewpub seats well over 300 guests in multiple dining rooms, at various bars, and in a gem-like beer garden. Upscale pub grub joins an ever-evolving list of world-class suds, cooked up by an awardwinning brewmaster. Don’t miss the house chips, meat boards, Cubano, and ridiculously delicious southern fried chicken. $$$ Nighttown 12387 Cedar Rd., Cleveland Hts., 216-795-0550. This atmospheric pub is as cozy and friendly as can be, with food that ranges from bangers and mash (juicy grilled sausage with mashed potatoes and cabbage) to thick slabs of certified Angus beef. The nightly entertainment by local musicians is supplemented with regularly scheduled special performances by nationally known jazz artists. $$$

◆ Cousin Ron’s Calamari ◆ Zucchini Planks ◆ Meatball Sliders ◆ Mussels Dominic

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440.799.4554

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Paragon 21920 Lakeshore Blvd. Euclid, 216-7319463. Like its sister restaurant the Standard, though not quite to the same level, Paragon is a neighborhood tavern that has higher ambitions than pubs peddling run-of-the-mill burgers and beer. This attractive corner wine bar offers a wide

range of appealing small snacks, big platters of sausage and cheese, flatbreads perfect for sharing and pairing with wine, and, yes, burgers and sandwiches. Above average wine, beer and craft cocktail list also help raise the bar on this barroom bistro. $$

Rocky River Brewing Co. 21290 Center Ridge Rd., Rocky River, 440-895-2739. Established in 1998 as a premier brewpub and restaurant, Rocky River Brewing Company was founded on creating world-class handcrafted beers, an award-winning menu, and a great dining experience. Over the past 10 years, Rocky River Brewing Company has won more than a dozen national and international medals for its beers and numerous Silver Spoon awards for its food. $$ Rowley Inn 1104 Rowley Ave. 216-795-5345. For the last 60 years, the Rowley has been tucked away in the South Side (yeah, Tremont, but folks by the Rowley still call it the South Side), serving bargain booze and good atmosphere from 5:30 a.m. every morning until 2:30 a.m. Most folks know it now as the neighbor of the Christmas Story house. New owner Matt Peterson hasn’t changed much about the place at all, wanting to keep it a blue-collar hangout. But he has added some dynamite grub, including a bacon-wrapped dog and the Ohio burger ($5.50), which are both way better than you’d expect from a corner tavern. $-$$ Stone Mad Pub 1306 W. 65th St., 216-2816500. Luxe flourishes turn up around every bend in this beautiful pub, from the hand-laid cobblestone parking lot to the hand-rubbed walnut woodwork. In contrast, the menu is as straightforward as it comes: Burgers, meatloaf, pasta and steak, served alongside the indoor bocce court. 21 and over only. $$ Tremont Tap House 2572 Scranton Rd., 216298-4451. In the spirit of the region’s finest neighborhood taverns, the Tap House serves its neighbors well with boldly flavored, cleverly packaged and downright affordable American fare. Entrees like grilled hanger steak are proof that this is no pub-grub pub. Beer list (24 taps, 50+ bottles) is easily among city’s top five. Latenight food. Patio. $$ West End Tavern 18514 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-521-7684. A venerable Lakewood tavern, complete with tin ceiling, wooden floors, and a well-worn bar, this neighborhood watering hole serves up booze, music, and more than a few made-from-scratch items – including burgers, pot roast, and the popular black-bean soup – during lunch, dinner, and weekend brunches. $$ Willoughby Brewing Company 4057 Erie St., Willoughby, 440-975-0202. Good, handcrafted beer and deftly prepared food, in a handsome, historic building. What more do you need to know? $$$ XYZ the Tavern 6419 Detroit Ave., 216-7061104. Eclectic and affordable pub-style comfort food is the name of the game at XYZ, with great burgers, corned beef and chicken sandies filling the bill. Don’t miss the housemade chips and the killer chicken and waffles. More than 70 varieties of whiskey, scotch, bourbon, and rye and a smashing craft beer list make this lively American pub a true neighborhood gem. $$ QUICK + CASUAL Bogtrotters Doorstep 1848 West 25th St.,

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Listings 216-861-5515. The menu at this Ohio City sandwich shop is as crisp as an album’s track list. Just eight giant sammies: no soups, no sides, no desserts. All the meats are marinated, brined, and roasted in-house, and the drippings from each are reserved for use as gravy. Most of the sandwiches are modeled after classic American varieties and can be had drenched in jus or topped with chips for crunch. Best of all, the shop stays open until 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Mainly carryout. $-$$

Cleveland Pickle 850 Euclid Ave., 216-5751111. Quickly becoming downtowners’ favorite lunch stop, Josh Kabat’s casual sandwich shop features almost a dozen meaty, Cleveland-themed creations. The Terminal, for example, combines Black Forest ham, brie, mustard and apricot jam in a soft 8-inch sub bun. Dining is mainly carryout, but a few tables accommodate those who can’t wait to dig in. $-$$ The Coney Company 3330 Broadview Rd., 216563-1894. A former Arby’s in Old Brooklyn has found new life as a dispensary of authentic Coneystyle hot dogs. The locally owned shop began rolling out tasty Coneys, chili cheese fries, burgers and sandwiches in early 2014. The dogs are done right, with a griddle-cooked natural-casing weenie tucked into a soft, steamed white bun and topped with bean-free Greek style chili, yellow mustard and diced onion. There are a dozen different varieties of dog, including one topped with sauerkraut and Stadium Mustard and a Polish

Boy with spicy polish sausage, coleslaw, fries and BBQ sauce. $

Souper Market 2528 Lorain Ave., 216-737SOUP. Amiable Matthew Moore is no Soup Nazi, although his wonderful “made-fromscratch” broths and bisques are certainly good enough to justify some arrogance. Jambalaya, bisque, and tomato-ginger soup are among his eight or so daily offerings, all packaged with a slice of artisanal bread to go; there’s also a small selection of salads and bottled beverages. No tables, although a narrow countertop can accommodate a few stand-up souls. $ Sweet Moses Soda Fountain 6800 Detroit Ave., 216-651-2202. Owner Jeffrey Moreau, a former ad man, set out to revive the great tradition of neighborhood ice-cream parlors – and boy did he succeed. Wall-to-wall with ice cream sundaes, chocolate candies, buttery fudge, crunchy caramel corn, and creamy root beer floats, Sweet Moses has instantly become Gordon Square’s go-to dessert destination $ CAFES, COFFEE SHOPS + BAKERIES Bonbon Pastry & Cafe 2549 Lorain Ave., 216458-9225. Award-winning pastry chef Courtney Bonning branches out into the savory world at this cute-as-a-cupcake café. Like a big-city patisserie, the café is intimate, elegant, and attractive enough to warrant a visit every day. In addition to the delectable sweets, the café dishes up breakfast,

Did we miss something? Let us know! lunch, and weekend brunch. Quiche of the day, meat-filled Cornish pasties, and a killer Ohio beef burger are just a few of the offerings. $$

Luna Bakery & Cafe 2482 Fairmount Blvd., Cleveland Hts., 216-231-8585. This wee and tidy space in the Cedar-Fairmount District is as crisp and cosmopolitan as a bespoke suit. More bakery than café, the shop specializes in sweets of every size, color and seductiveness. Rounding out the menu are made-to-order panini and French crepes, both sweet and savory. $$ On the Rise 3471 Fairmount Blvd., Cleveland Hts., 216-320-9923. Part chemist, part craftsman, Adam Gidlow produces fine artisanal breads, bursting with honest wheat flavor and giving off clouds of nutty, toasty aromas. French baguettes are the real deal, with crisp but pliable crusts; rustic Italian loaves are an epiphany; and croissant-like sticky buns are a naughty dream. Mostly carryout, but two bistro tables accommodate those who can’t wait. $ Presti’s Café and Deli 12101 Mayfield Rd., 216-421-3060. Presti’s is bright, contemporary, and inviting, and, with two walls of tall windows, it offers some of the best people-watching in Little Italy. Fresh foods include bruschetta, stromboli, pepperoni bread, and frittatas, as well as sweets like cannoli, pignoli, biscotti, and strudel. After your meal, pick up a loaf of warm Italian bread to take home. $-$$ The Root Cafe 15118 Detroit Ave., Lakewood, 216-226-4401. Built largely from local,

Try Our Sweet Grass At

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sustainable, and organic ingredients, the vegetarian menu at this coffeehouse is wholesome if not terribly thrilling. Fresh salads, house-made soups, straightforward veggie sandwiches, pizzas, and calzones fill the concise menu. Superbly brewed Phoenix coffee pairs beautifully with Root’s house-baked vegan and vegetarian pastries. $

Sweet Melissa’s 19337 Detroit Rd., Rocky River, 440-333-6357. This sharp West Side café, set in the former Max’s Deli space, features an all-day menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, entrées and delectable desserts. Management endeavors to source local, sustainable and organic foodstuffs; soups, salad dressings and pastries are made fresh daily; sandwich bread comes from a nearby bakery. Bountiful salads, over-stuffed sandwiches and wallet-friendly entrees are this eatery’s stock in trade. The eastern outpost near John Carroll is full of the same delicious food and warm atmosphere. $$ Tea Lab 14534 Detroit Ave. Lakewood 216-7124410. Bob Holcepl was so sure that tea was the next coffee that he opened up a loose-leaf tea shop in the heart of downtown. And this from the man who owns Civilization and City Roast Coffee! He went on to open this second shop to give himself even more room to focus on serving the needs of a growing tea-centric consumer. Buy loose tea, a hot cup of prepared tea, or any of the paraphernalia needed to brew up a perfect cup at home. $

#flavor2014

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