Metro Times Eat 2015

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Downtown Detroit’s Republic.

By Michael Jackman For decades, Detroit’s food scene was behind the times. With a few notable exceptions, it was a place where the fine-dining crowd was older, addicted to classics. They were almost uniformly more likely to pick a restaurant with a generous parking lot that served meat and potatoes, surf and turf, or spaghetti and meatballs with upscale inflections like waiters in tuxedos. Outside of that realm, the metropolitan area was a bastion of Big Food, where national chains prevailed, selling food-service portions to indifferent diners who washed it all down with industrially brewed suds. What changed this state of affairs? Certainly the craft beer revolution, now entering its third decade, played a role. The locavore movement did its part to reward artisanal eateries that emphasized local ingredients. So

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did our regional willingness to take a second look at the central city, with its small- to mid-sized buildings ready for ambitious entrepreneurs to take a leap.

in 2005, it was the only new restaurant along a stretch of Michigan Avenue that hosted venerable burger joints and one White Castle. Now that stretch

Chow time 2015: The Detroit dining scene’s breakout year

It has been years in the making. Locals often trace the beginnings of this food revolution to the opening of Slows Bar-B-Q in Corktown, which embodied many of these trends. Back

of road is transformed, adorned with revamped diners, new restaurants, a high-end coffee shop, a wine bar, an artisan distillery, a deli, and more to come.

That new willingness to try luring fine diners has spread all over the metropolitan region. In something of a reversal, many of those new hotspots have been in the city, especially near downtown. This year saw the opening of Republic Tavern, the Bridge, Jolly Pumpkin, Chartreuse, Parks and Rec, and Vertical Detroit. But the suburbs have had their share of fresh openings, including Zeke’s in Ferndale, Garrido’s in the Pointes, Lucy & the Wolf in Northville, the Triple Nickel in Birmingham, ROAK Brewing in Royal Oak, and Mabel Gray in Hazel Park of all places. We’ve also seen another trend that smacks of a serious food scene: Chefs or entrepreneurs opening up more than one restaurant, with Jacques Driscoll of Green Dot Stables and Johnny Noodle King working on his third spot, the Huron Room, and Dave Kwiatkowski of



By Serena Maria Daniels

Photo by Scott Spellman

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, but for too long in Detroit the first-meal landscape has been dominated by greasy-spoon coney islands, whose menus can be dominated by oily hash browns, soggy bacon strips, and uninspired egg dishes. Lately, however, many local eateries have been bringing their A-game to breakfast menus. What’s new? Vegetables are making a debut. Ingredients are sourced from local farms. Offerings are increasingly decadent. And the whole idea of a diner breakfast has been turned on its head. Perhaps one of the most exciting additions to the breakfast scene came in the form of the menu at Rose’s Fine Foods, which opened its doors on East Jefferson Avenue to much fanfare last year. Situated in a tiny old diner with not enough seating, the wait is well worth it. That’s because of the care taken in the preparation of house-baked goods like the “Crybabies” (potato doughnuts), “Naughty Bun” cinnamon rolls, or even the fresh-baked bread used for the toast. You can go for the more traditional breakfast entrées, like the “Poodle Platter,” which comes with a perfectly poached egg, and sides of garlicky kale, potatoes, and a thick slice of toast topped

Great starts Even breakfast is getting a bit of extra love

with house-made ricotta and jam. Or venture outside the norm (at least by American standards) and spring for the “Breakfast Noods,” with house-made semolina noodles that are stir-fried in garlic butter and mixed with chorizo and scallions and then topped with two fried eggs. It’s dishes like these, where you can practically taste the love and care that went into making them, that has garnered Rose’s praise on a national level, with Bon Apetit heralding the place as one of the 50 best new restaurants in America. But Rose’s is hardly the only new eatery boosting breakfasts these days. It’s part of a growing philosophy among young restaurateurs who believe that breakfast should do more than

provide needed sustenance -- it should delight. Deveri Gifford, co-owner of Brooklyn Street Local, says buying locally and organically helps elevate her menu. “There is no comparison between the salad mix we get from our local farmers and the stuff that is shipped from California,” she says. “The local greens are infinitely more delicious.” The vegetarian bacon used for Brooklyn Street Local’s popular eggs Benedict is made in-house. The cinnamon rolls come from a secret family recipe from Gifford’s great-grandmother, details, she says, that make the food stand out. “We always try to put care into the preparation and presentation of our food,” Gifford says. “I think that translates to the customer

experience. We want them to feel that we value and appreciate them and the food we are serving to them.” All concepts that until recently haven’t been applied to breakfast. Sarah Welch, executive chef at Republic and the adjoining diner Parks and Rec in the revamped GAR Building, says that when she took the job after chef Kate Williams exited, the thought of cooking diner-style breakfast and lunch seemed a far cry from her culinary interests. Then again, she could take that as a challenge and aspire to preparing the most interesting comfort foods around. That’s just what she and her crew work toward every day. You can see it in the way the house-made lamb bacon tastes like it’s infused with syrup, giving it that mixed-in-withpancakes sensation. Or the fact that takeout orders are a no-no because the best time to enjoy a freshly cooked egg is immediately after it leaves the grill. Or how a cinnamon roll or Dutch Baby popover tastes a million times better when it’s baked to order, instead of made the night before. Other hotshots in the breakfast world that have been around for years before the Detroit food scene broke include Hudson Café, which will make a killer “Voodoo Eggs Benedict,” Le Petit Zinc, with its beautifully crafted French-style crepes and velvety chocolate cake (when a cake is absolutely perfect, like the slices here, there is no bad time for it). And then there’s the unapologetic Clique diner on East Jefferson, near the Renaissance Center, which still does the griddle classics, but offers ample chance to rub elbows with many of the city’s power players who frequent it. As restaurants in Detroit continue to make an imprint on the city’s renewal, let’s make it a point to rise just a little bit earlier so we can enjoy the underrated charm of a breakfast. n

Joy in the morning: The “Poodle Platter,” featuring poached egg, kale, potatoes, and toast topped with housemade ricotta and jam, from Rose’s Fine Foods in Detroit. 20 | metrotimes | eat | 2014





Reid Shipman

Casaundra White farmers and raising eight pigs. She lucked out again when she was hired to work under Garrett Lipar, then at Torino in Ferndale. The popular eatery shuttered abruptly over the summer, but Patuano, by then a veteran in several restaurants, landed on her feet once more, this time at Bacco Ristorante in Southfield, working under chef-proprietor Luciano DelSignore. “It’s been a great opportunity, actually. I have worked with a lot of talented chefs and also with the people who have come up with me,” Patuano says. Of the workload, Patuano says it does put a strain on any sense of normalcy for any average 20-something. “I spend my Sundays sleeping,” she tells us. That has to do with the fact that she’s often the first person in the kitchen every day at about 9 a.m. and the last one to leave, well after 10 or 11 p.m. closing time. “In this job,” she says, “you have to have the hands of a mechanic, the knees of a football player, and the feet of the 24 | metrotimes | eat | 2015

ballerina.” So far that balancing act has paid off.

Reid Shipman,

Gold Cash Gold, Detroit Fine dining as a career path hadn’t become apparent for Reid Shipman until his early 20s. Up until that point, he had only worked in mom-and-pop restaurants, flipping burgers at his aunt’s bowling alley, just kind of getting by as a short order cook. But it was those experiences that helped shape his work ethic. He learned to work fast on his feet. And even though he didn’t know it yet, the chef bug bit him hard, prompting him, like so many others in the industry in metro Detroit, to enroll in Schoolcraft College’s culinary program. At that point, he was still apprehensive about the direction his career would take. He remembers standing in line to enroll when he met an older guy who had been in the business a while. “He warned me exactly what I was getting into and I didn’t

listen to him,” Shipman tells us. “But now, I’m glad I didn’t listen to him.” What that guy in the line warned Shipman about was the long hours, the missed holidays, the time spent away from family. “He was right, but there’s a level of satisfaction that you can’t find in another career path,” Shipman says. After Schoolcraft, Shipman worked at the Stand in Birmingham, before jumping onboard to help chef Josh Stockton open Gold Cash Gold, then the hotly anticipated rustic, farm-to-table restaurant that’s now firmly ensconced in a former pawnshop on Michigan Avenue. That’s where Shipman became obsessed with learning how to prepare dishes using only the ingredients that could be found at the moment. If Stockton were to find four varieties of beets, for example, a dish unique to those four beets would be on the menu. “This is my favorite job I’ve ever had. The local sourcing is the most I’ve ever done,” Shipman says.

That’s important to note about what’s happening in Detroit’s hip kitchens. Chefs at many of these newer restaurants are designing menus that work for the area. In Michigan, where the nearby rural influences urban trends, cooks like Shipman are learning to use that to their advantage.

Casaundra White,

Mex, Bloomfield Hills As a 20-year veteran of the restaurant industry, Casaundra White has been on both sides of the sous-executive relationship. She started her career in Madison, Wis., and moved to Michigan, where she held leadership roles in several metro Detroit restaurants, including Andiamo’s, and now at Mex, first as sous chef when it opened two years ago, and now as the executive chef. Over the years, she’s picked up some insight that has helped her navigate her way through the politics of working in a kitchen, both as a sous and as an executive. And she has some advice for the many aspiring cooks



who are trying to break into the restaurant scene: While the natural instinct when tapped for the No. 2 position in the kitchen may be to push the boundaries to prove you’re worthy of the job, keep in mind that you’ve already made it. Don’t do more than what is expected of you or the job could take over your life. The great thing about being second-in-command is that you’re a manager, but the tough decisions go to the executive. That can be helpful in that, when a sous goes home, he or she can leave the work at the restaurant. When you make it to the executive level, the phone calls, the mini-crises, and all the logistics follow you home. The hard parts come when you don’t see eye-to-eye with your No. 1.

But don’t let a disagreement get in the way of being consistent with the rest of the crew. They will pick up on unrest between sous and executive and that creates a tension you don’t want in the kitchen. White says her team at Mex tends to be more collaborative than hierarchical. Refried beans have to be churned out daily. If White has to make it, so be it. Everyone is part of a team in her book. For a sous, that means leading by example. Don’t place yourself above doing the dirty work, just because you’ve made it this far, your team needs to see you do the work so they know what needs to be done in the kitchen. Above all else, White says, in order to make it in this business,

you’ve got to really love what you’re doing. “If you don’t have a love and a passion for it, it will consume you,” she says.

Chris Skillingstad Standby, Detroit

If the executive chef is the creative mastermind, then the sous chef has to have the business sensibility to run the logistics of a kitchen. That’s the attitude of Chris Skillingstad, the sous at Standby bar and restaurant, which as of the printing of this dining guide had not yet opened. Working in kitchens since the age of 17, Skillingstad found himself drawn to the position of manager after several stints in various restaurants across his native Minneapolis. When he got his first executive chef position

at a gastropub in northwest Minneapolis, he stayed about a year and a half, but wanted to try his hand at the more creative side of cooking. So he quit to work at Victory 44, a popular restaurant with an unusual structure: There were about 15 cooks, but no wait staff, meaning they all rotated between serving, bussing, bartending, cooking, even being baristas, as the place had a coffee side. It would be this experience (and another one at a restaurant with a similar concept) that would inspire the career direction Skillingstad always wanted to have. “What I want to get into is just helping chefs open restaurants in the city,” he says. “I don’t want to be my own chef yet at my own restaurant. I want to

Chris Skillingstad

Emma Taylor 26 | metrotimes | eat | 2015



help other chefs succeed. I don’t think I have the most creative side. I don’t find myself artistic. I’m more of a logistics [guy]. I like to think everything through and be efficient as possible in every aspect of my life, and I’ve found that I’m really good in the restaurant industry.” So call it timing, but when he was about six months into dating his then-girlfriend about two years ago, that she decided on a whim that she wanted out of Minneapolis. She was headed to Detroit, she told him. So Skillingstad decided he would propose to her and move on out to Motown with her. “Neither of us had a job out here, we just up and moved, thinking that Detroit was on the up and up and was going to have the most opportunity for whatever we wanted to do,” he says. The gamble paid off. In less than two years since relocating to Detroit, Skillingstad has surrounded himself with some of the most celebrated up-andcoming chefs in town, including Brendon Edwards, who hired Skillingstad on as his second-incommand a couple of months after they met.

Emma Taylor,

Marais, Grosse Pointe The nature of working in restaurants can be volatile. Bad reviews can be demoralizing. The physical and mental demands can be overwhelming. Oh, and a routine health inspection can put you and your crew out of work in an instant. Which is what happened at Torino in Ferndale, when an inspector ruled earlier this year that the kitchen was too small for chef Garrett Lipar and his team to continue cooking there, magical as as the food that came out of it may have been. Fortunately for Lipar and many on his staff, including Emma Taylor, their talents did not go unnoticed. Both landed at Marais, the celebrated white tablecloth French restaurant in Grosse Pointe. Owners David and Monica Gilbert handed over full control of the

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kitchen. That meant Taylor would join in the task of recalibrating the established restaurant’s culinary compass. The move to a different kitchen together builds on a two-year, sous-executive mentorship. Taylor was hired at Torino about two years ago, after returning to her native Michigan upon completing her degree at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. She stuck around after school a while working at a bistro in Brooklyn, before finally deciding it was time to come home. The mentoring at Torino was very hands-on, Taylor said. Though many kitchens operate under a strict tier system, Lipar was more interested in helping his crew learn. It’s that nurturing, Taylor says, that drives her to aim to do her best. So far in her young career, she hasn’t felt the sting of sexism that her elder female chefs might have encountered. It could be luck that she wound up in the environment she did. Taylor tends to think of it as less than a gender issue than in how she carries herself. “It’s not so much male and female: A lot of it is holding yourself to a high standard, how you carry yourself,” she says.

Joshua Keller,

Andiamo’s, Sterling Heights We’ve been writing a lot about the young chefs who have been leaving a dramatic mark on the region’s dining scene. But lest we forget, kitchen staff at local chains like Andiamo’s have been in the trenches for ages. Like the newer, high-end locavore eateries making their mark in Detroit, the suburban chains before them changed the way Detroiters dined out. And that didn’t come easily. Fans of chains want a certain amount of consistency, no matter which location they’ve visited. It makes them want to return again and again. That consistency comes from strict organization within the ranks of chefs. Josh Keller, a veteran Andiamo’s sous chef at the Sterling Heights location, knows full well the importance of not overstepping it.





Small packages, big tastes Ten small plates we can’t get enough of By Metro Times staff In spite of the many eulogies mumbled over the grave of the small plates craze, it continues to gain traction. Partly it’s because anything that injects a bit of informality works in a restaurant’s favor. The option of grazing off multiple plates, or the intimacy of sharing with other diners, strips away a lot of stodginess. And it also provides the chance for adventurous diners to take a chance on smaller portions of unfamiliar flavors, which helps the kitchen keep things hip and creative. And with some small plates, you almost feel the chef took it as a dare to see how much flavor you can pack into a single bowl. Whatever the case, here’s a look at our 10 favorite little dishes.

Chartreuse Locally grown vegetable plate, around $9 High praise for a plate of veggies? Yes, when they’re this good. Chef Doug Hewitt Jr. isn’t afraid to mix the cooked with the fresh and the pickled, which makes for an intense variety of flavors that rotates with the seasons. In winter, it might be a plate of lovingly prepared fingerling potatoes from Sunseed Farms, decked out with tasso ham, winter squash, and a green onion emulsion. In springtime, it could be a seasonal bounty of heirloom beets and asparagus tips, charred kohlrabi and baby radishes, baby green beans, lemon-pickled golden beets, all topped with an emulsified cherry viniagrette. The lemon-pickled beets were most surprising of all, bearing a revelatory sweetness. The Triple Nickel Stuffed calamari, $13 We tend to think of calamari as this chewy ring, whose essence is lost after having gone through a deep breading and trip into a greasy vat or skillet. That’s not the case here. While the classic flashfried version is on the menu for fans to enjoy, the real treat is the stuffed variety, in which the squid is used like a dough, into which minced ham and Maryland lump crab are enveloped, and then laid out with lemon caper sauce. The result is a bountiful, savory seafood dumpling.

Locally grown vegetable plate at Chartreuse. Photo by Rob Widdis

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Johnny Noodle King Bacon fried rice, $6 Sure, it’s mainly about the ramen here, but you’d be silly not to grab a bowl of the bacon fried rice to scarf down before your bowl of noodles arrives at the table. Salty in all the right amounts, with balance from ume, scallions, cucumber, and corn, it’s the elevated version of the fried rice you get at the corner Chinese place. There’s nothing wrong with that stuff, but there’s also nothing wrong with adding some bacon to the mix.



Flank steak at Lucy & the Wolf Photo by Rob Widdis

La Dulce Croquetas de choco, $7 It’s not a perfectly authentic interpretation of Spanish tapas, but Royal Oak’s La Dulce is damn near close. Tapas, by definition, are small plates meant to be shared or eaten as a snack, so the whole menu is filled with small wonders. But we can’t say enough about the croquetas de choco, little fried wonders filled with cuttlefish and squid ink. Served in an adorable mini fryer with an equally adorable miniature Mason jar for the accompanying sauce, the bite-sized balls are mellow and filled with

deep layers of flavor.

Lucy & the Wolf Flank steak, around $17 The menu at this Northville eatery is seasonal, which means it changes several times a year, but they usually have at least one flank steak small plate. In the colder months, it might be flank steak served with charred scallion crema, caramelized onion jam, and a compound butter made with garlic and blue cheese. In summertime, don’t miss their chimichurri flank, a crowd-pleasing dish that mixes the “chilled” and the “charred”

to perfection. The kitchen brings out the best in the beef, but even that is improved with the addition of a simple chimichurri, made with parsley, garlic, oregano, and oil and vinegar, and an infinitely fresh corn relish on the side, along with a little heap of pickled shallots for a tiny bit of bite.

Om Café Shaved Brussels, $5 Om Café does some wonderful things to Brussels sprouts, shaved and pan-seared with garlic and enlivened with a creamy sauce made of salt, pepper, vegenaise,

and whole-grain mustard. It’s hard to get sprouts to that perfect point where the interiors offer slight resistance to the teeth but the outer leaves aren’t overly charred. For this to be a quickly prepared appetizer attests to a high level of sophistication back in the kitchen.

Central Kitchen + Bar Green chili, $5 OK, so soup is probably stretching the definition of small plate, but we’d be remiss in devoting an entire special issue to Detroit’s dining scene without mentioning Central Bar + Kitchen

Shaved Brussels Sprouts at Om Café Photo by Michael Jackman

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Charred Octopus at Selden Standard Photo by Rob Widdis

and its fabulous menu. And talking about small plates gives us an excuse to extol their green chili, a cup of which is tart and spicy and served with or without pork, depending on your preference.

Selden Standard Charred octopus, $14 Chef Andy Hollyday takes Spanish octopi and cooks them until tender, then gives them a beautiful char. But it doesn’t end there: It comes in a saffron vinaigrette with salsa verde, Kalamata and Castelvetrano olives, and tender, cooked chickpeas. The recipe has changed a bit over the last year, and there are probably a few tweaks ahead, but that’s one more reason for diners to return to this Cass Corridor gem. Parks and Rec Diner Lamb Bacon, $4 Technically, it’s merely a side dish at Parks and Rec, but the house-made lamb bacon has earned its share of converts since the eatery opened in summer 36 | metrotimes | eat | 2015

2015. As the diner shares its kitchen with Republic Tavern, it can order whole lambs, pigs, and cows, and house-butcher all its own animal proteins, using them “from nose to tail.” And lamb bacon is just one example of the kind of housecured meat Parks and Rec can turn out. It’s just a bit smaller, sweeter, and denser than pork bacon, with a more jerky-like texture. Server Amber Deem tells us customers are generally surprised to learn there’s something other than pork bacon, and so she’ll offer it, saying, “If you don’t like it, I’ll bring you the pork bacon.” Hundreds of orders later, Deem says only one diner exercised that option. It’s that good.

Local Kitchen and Bar Mac and cheese, $12 This Ferndale eatery’s menu only officially embraced the “small plates” concept this autumn, but the mac and cheese was on the menu long before that. Among the more generous “small” items in metro Detroit, this decadent dish

Macaroni and Cheese at Local Kitchen & Bar Photo by Rob Widdis

is definitely meant for sharing. It’s had some tweaks over the years, but chef Jared Bobkin says it’s more or less finalized: spiraling noodles covered in a cheese sauce made of milk, flour, butter, and Parmesan, mozzarella, Gruyère, and Vlaskaas, a cheddar-like cheese with flakes of salt in it. For good measure, the creamy dish is covered with crunchy toasted breadcrumbs seasoned with butter and paprika, and chunks of sweet, caramelized, candied

bacon. We aren’t alone in loving this dish: It’s Local’s second-biggest seller.

Rock City Eatery Green beans, $8 Who knew whole green beans could make such a formidable offering? Cooked al fresco, mixed with cilantro, cashews, and scallions, and dribbled with a pungent hoisin sauce, these whole beans punch above their weight. n




in heavy cast-iron pots. A pizzasize piece of flatbread (malooga) is your utensil of choice. Breakfast, served any time, is foul or fassolia, beans mashed with tomatoes and, optionally, eggs. But forget the bland hummus served here — it’s not traditional in Yemen. No frills, no raw juices, no dessert — just solid home cooking. When your out-of-town friends ask to be taken out for Middle Eastern, surprise them with something out of the ordinary.

Indo Fusion Twelve Mile Crossing at Fountain Walk 44175 W. 12 Mile Rd., Suite F-143, Novi 248-946-4804 indofusionmi.com Hidden among a warren of looming big boxes, you’d never know this spot existed if you didn’t belong to one of the 100-or-so area families who hail from Goa. That tiny beachside

Indian state was ruled by Portugal for 450 years, and the culinary result, favoring rice, fish, coconut milk, and a long list of spices, is to the world’s benefit. It’s part of the susegad — no worries — Goan culture. Curries are flavored with both coconut and kokum, the skin of a dried fruit that adds a tart-sour taste, like tamarind. The hearty, spicy pork dishes are the chef-owner’s favorites, including a house-made chorizo. On weekends, you can request goat biryani. Even better than the Indian breads are sannas: steamed dumplings of ground rice, fresh coconut, and buttermilk, light and spongy with a mild coconut flavor.

Magdaleno Italiano 152 Elm St., Wyandotte 734-283-8200 magdalenositalian.com Although his native cuisine — that of Puebla, Mexico — is world-renowned, chef-owner Ernesto Magdaleno long ago

fell in love with the pastas and scaloppini of Italia. He pursued his craft in New York’s Little Italy and at upscale Bacco in Southfield. Now he brings veal saltimbocca, frutti di mare (fruits of the sea), and much more to a cult following Downriver. We don’t expect such elegant dishes and such from-scratch attention to detail — housemade pastas and sausage, for instance — in a place that until a year ago had no liquor license. That addition has made all the difference in attracting a happy clientele, who now enjoy a 20-course Sunday brunch as well. Specialties include five preparations of veal and gemelli norcina: twisted pasta with a sauce of sausage, truffle oil, and tomato cream sauce. There’s nary a meatball nor a slice of pizza to be found.

Pupusería y Restaurante Salvadoreño 3149 Livernois Ave., Detroit 313-899-4020

It’s set back from the street in a non-restaurant area, so you could miss it. The pupusa, the Salvadoran national dish and street food, is the reason folks stop at this small Spanishspeaking place. The empanadalike pupusas ($2.30) are made with thick, handmade corn tortillas, reason enough to order even if they weren’t filled with cheese, beans, pork, squash, or loroco flowers. A handmade tortilla is night-and-day different from the thin floppy kind from the factory. And so are the moist, well-stuffed Salvadoran tamales, both savory and sweet. The horchata is head and shoulders above the norm too — made with milk and nutty-flavored morro seeds. On weekends, the cook offers chicken and beef soups and stews. For dessert, fried platanos are served the traditional way, with a pool of warm puréed black beans and another pool of cooler crema. n

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Green day

Detroit kitchens welcome vegetarians and vegans with open arms and full plates

Photo by Rob Widdis

By Mike Larson There was a time, not so long ago, when most restaurants’ vegetarian options consisted of a cheese pizza or maybe some kind of frozen veggie burger. For vegans? Enjoy the side salad. Times have changed, though, and restaurant owners and chefs have become more accommodating to those with alternative diets, which means meatless fare is becoming more and more prominent. While Ann Arbor, a bastion of progressive intellectualism, seems to have led the charge when it comes to menus that appeal to those with restrictive diets, Detroit and its surrounding suburbs are doing more than ever to appeal to appetites across the dietary spectrum. “Quite frankly, it’s incredibly shortsighted to just ignore vegetarians and vegans,” says Christopher Franz, the executive chef at the Rattlesnake Club in Detroit. “That sounds like it should be common sense, but there are still a lot of places that offer one or two [vegetarian or vegan] dishes. And normally, they aren’t great options, just something that doesn’t have meat. That’s not a great way to get people to come back to your restaurant.” Franz says the Rattlesnake Club has been working hard for a long time to make a creative menu for all diets. “It’s got to be frustrating to look at a menu and have to basically decide between a salad or a nut platter or something,” he says. “So we try to make sure we’re creating clever and creative dishes that make people want to eat them, not settle for them.” Franz says getting local produce has been integral to creating a menu that will please all customers. “I, myself, value getting stuff locally. Fresh vegetables taste the way they should

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Chef Jared Bobkin at Local Kitchen and Bar in Ferndale.









Mexican warmth Photo by Scott Spellman

On a chilly November night, a mariachi band serenades diners at Taqueria Nuestra Familia in Detroit.

Nothing helps us make it through a dreary winter like south-of-the-border flair By Serena Maria Daniels When the temperatures start to plummet, nothing satisfies like a piping hot bowl of caldo de pollo. Or pozole with all the fixings. Or a creamy cup of tortilla soup. It’s times like these that call for a trip to Southwest

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Detroit. Indeed, you’ll be in for a mashup of culinary traditions at Mexican restaurants in Detroit. You can indulge on immigrantowned taquerias, the plethora of the Tex Mex-inspired eateries that have lined “La Bagley” for generations, and even fine

dining experiences tucked into barrios that are, for the most part, overlooked by outsiders. Aging staples like Mexican Village, Xochimilco Restaurant, or El Zocalo are reflective of the long-standing MexicanAmerican community that assimilated in Detroit nearly a

century ago. They came here looking for a working-class city without the sting of racism experienced in other parts of the country. The cuisine symbolizes that transition into American culture, with nativefriendly fare that includes deepfried flautas, chimichangas, and



botanas, served with refried beans and rice. While the food at places like these served to introduce Detroiters to Mexican cuisine decades ago, more newly arrived immigrant restaurateurs are increasingly branching out of the mold and urging their customers to try something that isn’t necessarily buried in shredded iceberg lettuce. Take Luis Garza, proprietorchef of El Asador on Springwells, which opened its doors last year. Proving that he could give the area a highend steakhouse experience while paying homage to his Mexican heritage, he offers signature steaks, seafood, and guacamole prepared fresh by the table. Entrées are lovingly prepared with guajillo, ancho, chipotle butter, or poblano cream sauce. And when you’re in need of a classic comfort food, the tortilla soup, made with roasted tomatoes, guajillo, queso fresco, asadero, and a bit of cilantro, delivers. Though the place lacks a liquor license, Garza’s concept has already established itself as a prime destination. Garza is building on successes like that found at El Barzon, now a staple at Junction Street and Michigan Avenue, where diners can enjoy equally exquisite Mexican and Italian fare. Owner Norberto Garita is a native of the Mexican state of Puebla, arguably one of the star culinary regions in all of Mexico. His mole poblano is evidence of that. He perfectly blends chiles, tomatillo, anise, bread, banana, and chocolate for an almost dessert-like experience. Add to that the Italian offerings, which include house-made pasta and a variety of intriguing sauces to create dishes like pennette alla vodka, gnocchi with four cheeses, and risotto with porcini. Elsewhere on Vernor, in the so-called Springwells Village, other spots like Nuestra Familia and El Nacimiento

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offer diners fare more akin to a traditional taqueria, with meats like tripa (intestines), cabeza (steamed beef head) and lengua (tongue), along with carne asada or al pastor. They both offer real treats that are especially therapeutic during long Michigan winters, such as caldo de pollo (a giant soup with huge cuts of bonein chicken, hearty veggies, and a generous cob of corn) and pozole, a spicy red soup made with hominy and tripe and garnished with cabbage, radish, onion, and cilantro (traditionally made in Mexican restaurants on the weekends, it can make hangovers evaporate like morning dew in Acapulco sunshine). And it doesn’t stop with the cuisine. Nuestra Familia’s interior has a summer-inJanuary feel, with bright decor that’s reminiscent of any number of spots one might find on the balmy coast of Baja California, no matter the gloomy temperature at home. El Nacimiento also has a kind of spring break vibe, as does the bar menu, with a variety of micheladas (beer with a spicy Clamato juice, in a salt-rimmed mug) and margaritas, including what’s sometimes referred to as a “beerita,” with a Coronita bottle poured into a massive margarita. These restaurants represent a new age for Mexican cuisine as well as a new chapter for the community. These spots, which have all opened within the last three decades, are part of a wave of immigrantowned businesses that have helped Southwest Detroit thrive, while other parts of the city have languished. While the older establishments laid the foundation for a strong Latino neighborhood, these newer places reinforce the area as a powerhouse, instrumental in the revival of Detroit. And that’s enough to make us feel warm all year long. n



Photo courtesy Baby Click Media

Perfecting the

popup Why Detroit’s beloved one-off dining scene could use some fine tuning By Tom Perkins The 26 friends and strangers Detroit Bus Co.’s Andy Didorosi and Ashley Tyson gathered on a Hamtramck loading dock on a recent evening arrived with little indication of why the pair requested their presence or what lay ahead. There was an element of mystery. There was an element of intrigue. And there was also a purpose, albeit an unorthodox one for a pop-up dinner. As Didorosi explains it, the food — Chinese hot pots, an interactive dish — was almost secondary. The evening he and Tyson put together was focused more on the guests, the experience, and the results of placing some of the city’s active personalities and entrepreneurs around a dinner table. “The focus is not on the food — it’s entirely on the people, and the food is the mechanism to connect have good time and a memorable experience,” Didorosi says of the new dinner series. “For us, it’s really about the people and bringing them to the table. Friends of ours and friends of our friends — ‘Oh, you’re doing this cool thing and so are you’ — come have an interesting experience, and socialize with people might not otherwise socialize with or sit at a dinner table with.” It’s a new purpose for a pop-up in the city, and that’s precisely what Tyson and Didorosi shot for, as they made abundantly clear in the evening’s title: “Not Another Fucking Pop-Up.”

Guests enjoy one of Steven Reaume’s pop-up dinners above the Grand Trunk Pub. 60 | metrotimes | eat | 2015



That sentiment is expressed to varying degrees across the pop-up scene, and that’s partly why Tyson and Didorosi opted to take the dinners in the direction they have. As more chefs, hotshot chefs, would-be chefs, part-time chefs, wanna-be chefs, and all their brothers and sisters start throwing pop-ups, some find the scene a little watered-down, saturated, and maybe a little stale. Some of the presentations border on lazy or amateurish. Others are lacking purpose. And the scene, as one chef put it, is in need of some “fine tuning.” Didorosi says it’s a bummer to set out for one’s favorite restaurant only to discover it’s hosting a pop-up, and the only menu option is “some kid’s experiment” served up by unreliable employees. “Pop-ups have almost become an industry and in general kind of suck,” Didorosi says. “I don’t think I can think of one in the last two years where I said, ‘I can’t wait to go.’” One well-loved local chef who helped pioneer the scene sees it the same way, noting that while there’s nothing wrong with anyone throwing a popup, offering what’s essentially a home-cooked meal for guests (half of whom are friends) and billing it as a pop-up is “watering down a cool event.” And there are consequences, he says, as it’s “risking the trust of the dining public, which is never a good thing. You need to reward the trust of the dining public.” In other words, if someone feels burned by a crummy pop-up, they’re less likely to risk their tight “dining out budget” on a pop-up next time around, no matter how good it may be. Several others we spoke with offered similar thoughts. Most seem to agree an evening should provide something new, vital, and entertaining, like those pop-ups of the scene’s early days way back in 2014. It could center around an unusual experience, some mystery, the

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activation of an underused space, a new type of food that’s scarce in the region, an offering from a pro chef, something as simple as a surprise bottle of wine, or something that pushes the night beyond dinner party territory. Of course, it helped that the early pop-ups were fewer in number and thrown by the tastemakers. That’s how anything new starts out before it begins to evolve. And the popup’s evolution isn’t inherently a bad thing. They shouldn’t and can’t only be in a wild building out in the neighborhoods. Nowadays there are venues like Revolver dedicated solely to pop-ups, and some restaurants regularly forgo their usual menu to showcase a chef. Some popups offer “walk-up windows” and others provide full service. Some cooks are pop-ups regulars, while others are parttimers in it for fun. But no matter how it’s done, the general feeling is that there needs to be more purpose and thought. That begins with the dishes. Dorothy Hernandez is Hour Detroit’s managing editor, and co-founder of the Sarap pop-up. She and her partner offer Filipino food, which is generating a buzz, in part because incredible food comes out of the Philippines, but also because those recipes have yet to make it into many Detroit kitchens. Hernandez concurs that the scene is getting to be “overexposed” and the term pop-up is “overused,” but she still sees a lot of strong dinners around town. Sarap is among others’ favorites, and she says she does it as a creative outlet to cook up something new that’s in demand. “My partner and I are very purposeful about it,” she says. “We want to see if there’s interest in other Asian-themed pop-ups, because there is no Filipino food in Detroit. We fill a void in terms of pop-ups. There are no others, that I’m aware of, that are doing what we do.





Lake Superior whitefish, with parsnip, pomegranate, fennel, orange, and agrodolce from Chartreuse in Detroit.

Photo by Rob Widdis

And the winners are… The best things we ate this year By Metro Times staff What makes a dish outstanding? Sometimes it’s a novel combination of flavors and ingredients we’d never thought could work together. Sometimes it’s a classic done so well we wish we could take back every other iteration we’ve eaten. It can also be a very humble dish given a special tweak or just that extra bit

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of care that converts us instantly. Bear in mind the usual warnings that taste is subjective, that this list is the unscientific result of our limited experiences and what stands out in our memory right now. That said, let’s review these wonders, big and small.

Chartreuse Smoked Skuna Bay salmon, $10 For this dish, the kitchen at

Chartreuse takes salmon from the Pacific Northwest’s glacierfed waters and gives it an almost pastrami-style cure that gives it a bit of a crust. But the culinary savvy doesn’t end there. The rest of the plate adds even more flavors and textures: a creamy, slightly chunky, sauce-like chevre, a spicy jalapeno jam, and crunchy grilled cornbread. Of course, since Chartreuse’s menu is seasonal, you may have to settle for the simply marvelous Lake Superior whitefish, with parsnip, pomegranate, fennel, orange, and agrodolce. Either way, you win.

Marais, Grosse Pointe Rohan Duck, $36 The Rohan duck, available at Marais on both the tasting menu and a la carte, is a supreme treat. The ducks themselves are hybrids, a cross between the most tender and flavorful breeds, from a special farm in upstate New York. The kitchen at Marais puts weeks of work into preparing them, dry-aging them for weeks,

then warming them bone-in on a rotisserie, which pulls out moisture, warms up the meat, concentrates the flavor, and helps break down the amino acid structure. The final cuts of meat get expertly cooked to crisp up the flesh, before being served medium rare with pickled and raw carrots, mellow white miso imported from Japan, and a parsley emulsion.

Detroit Institute of Bagels Chicago Bagel Dog, $5.50 Chicago Bagel Dog, an all-beef Sy Ginsberg frank wrapped in bagel dough and cooked, then sliced open and dragged through the garden, stuffed with green relish, a pickle, a slice of tomato, a sport pepper, and chopped red onion, all in a crisp poppy-seed bagel coating. You won’t leave a single bite of this bun uneaten.

The Sardine Room Pan-seared sea scallops, $18 The scallops have been on the menu since this Plymouth spot opened almost four years ago, but they’re still amazing. It’s a pork


Ploughman’s Plate from Republic in Detroit.

Trinosophes Breakfast tacos, two for $5 Trino’s has popular weekend brunches, and serves food most days, in fact. But we’re huge fans of their breakfast taco. Sure, they’ll have the crema, the peppers, eggs, and that wedge of lime, but also veggie chorizo? The menu rotates all the time, but we always hope we’ll see a breakfast taco or burrito on the menu.

Detroit Guerrilla Food Sausage and biscuit, $5 About this time last year, at Meiko Krishok’s weekly food truck night, she prepared a bit of Corridor Sausage Co.’s apple-sage sausage tucked inside her version of a hot water cornbread biscuit, topped with a green tomato, garlic, and chili salsa, all atop a bed of leafy greens. It’s the perfect tidbit to enjoy with a cup of tea around an autumn fire. Krishok always has something inventive at her Thursday night events, but this is one we’d like to see again.

Mudgie’s Deli

Photo by Rob Widdis

Republic Ploughman’s Plate, $25 Another menu item that got rave reviews was this selection, called “a bountiful combination of rotating house-made meats, cheeses, breads, butters, and

pickles.” But that doesn’t do it justice. It’s really two high-end food boards — one meat, one cheese. It rotates around the eatery’s commitment to using artisanal, house-made, and locally created, seasonally available food. It might feature bread, butter, pickles, and cheeses made in-house or coming from local producers. The proteins are made in-house too, from whole animals, such as lamb, pig, duck, rabbit, chicken, or fish. That might find its expression in a rillettes, a sort of potted, whipped meat, or in a cured fish preparation, such as rollmops made of pickled herring. It changes depending on what’s on offer. Chef Sarah Welch calls it “the most artisanal plate you can buy.”

Linguine Delmar Linguine Delmar, $16.98 It’s billed as “a combination of fresh shrimp, scallops, and whitefish, sautéed in a zesty tomato sauce,” but that doesn’t do it justice. The dish unites seafood and tomato sauce in excellent proportion. Freshly made linguine noodles swim in the sauce with perfectly prepared ocean proteins, including shrimp, flavorful medium-size scallops, and bits of whitefish that flake apart wonderfully; what doesn’t make your mouth in one bite adds complexity to the sauce.

Zeke’s Rock and Roll BBQ Barbecue Poutine, $9 This starter is a mound of fries covered with deep-fried cheese curds and pulled pork, then showered with gravy. Something magical happens to cheese curds in a deep fryer: The normally sloppy curds firm up into delicacies packed with rich flavor that explodes in the mouth. And the pulled pork is exalted by the gravy. n

Barbecue Poutine from Zeke’s in Ferndale.

Photo by Scott Spellman

belly confit that gets a housemade barbecue sauce glaze, and is topped with three perfectly cooked sea scallops topped with a house-made Hollandaise sauce, with pickled onions and microgreens. The generous slab of pork doesn’t overwhelm the delicate scallops. That might have to do with the way the acidity of the pickles cuts through the richer flavors. It’s a surprising balancing act that works: It remains one of the eatery’s best sellers.

The Barrett, $10.25 Greg Mudge’s expanding Corktown delicatessen has earned a reputation for doing deli fare right, with no shortcuts or workarounds. To call “The Barrett” a basic corned-beef deli sandwich is to engage in supreme understatement. The meat in this popular sandwich comes from Sy

Ginsberg, and it’s lean, lacking the unwelcome mouthfuls of fat that lesser kitchens would leave in. It’s mounted on a fragrant onion roll, topped with Swiss cheese, housemade cole slaw, and Thousand Island dressing, served warm.

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wife Christine have opened the Huron Room, a fish and chips spot that mixes plenty of ingredients — beers, wines and spirits, plus a ton of entrées — that emphasize the Great Lakes State. Chef Les Molnar, of course, joined the Driscolls in designing the menu, consisting of classic smelt, perch, and lake trout, a Michigan apple pie, and such cocktails as “The I-75.” The space is brightly lit, and you can tell the care that went into the decor. Everything from the bar, which appears to be repurposed concrete from an old harbor, to the lighting, which resembles old submarine windows, has been crafted to give the place a solid balance of barnacle-encrusted kitsch and industrial style. As of press time, the long-awaited restaurant had just celebrated its opening day, with many folks familiar with the couple stopping in to say cheers.

La Rondinella Patience has to be the hardest thing for a chef who’s eager to open a new restaurant. Everyone wants to know when they’ll be able to visit the place, so there’s this anxiety about getting the project over and done with. But then there’s the perfectionist aspect to it, with the proprietor not wanting to jump the gun before everything is just perfect. That seems to be the case at La Rondinella, the Italian eatery being dreamed up by Supino Pizzeria owner Dave Mancini. He’s gone through painstaking measures to revamp a former Ethiopian restaurant to make way for this newest venture, to be located just a few doors down from his highly successful pizza place. Mancini took advantage of the crowds who flocked to the “Murals in the Market” event last fall by hosting a series of soft opening events to friends and family. But he remained relatively tight-lipped, avoiding the jinx associated with even trying to predict an opening date. And for good reason. This project seems more personal to Mancini, whose family has roots in Italy. Instead of pizza pies, he’s

paying homage to his family’s heritage, a feat that can’t be anything but nerve-wracking. But being slow to open makes it all the more intriguing.

Grey Ghost When a public relations team is brought on to handle the press surrounding the arrival of two Chicago chefs, you have to take note, even if just to glance over suspiciously. What makes the story significant about chefs John Vermiglio and Josef Giacomino’s defecting here to create their new meaty concept, Grey Ghost (named after the legend of a rum-running pirate on the Detroit River), is that it signifies a shift in Midwest migration. For generations, young adults wanted nothing to do with Detroit and flocked to cities like Chicago, New York, Los Angeles, and elsewhere. Now that the press has glorified the city as a land of opportunity for millennials, we’re starting to hear more and more about young chefs who jump ship from traditionally bigger culinary markets to make their way here. Giacomino, a native of Madison, Wis., has quite an impressive background. Before leaving the Windy City, he was executive chef at A10, a Frenchand Italian-inspired eatery, and had been named to Zagat Chicago’s 30 Under 30 culinary class. Vermiglio, originally from metro Detroit, worked as culinary director of chef Matthias Merges’ restaurant group, which includes A10, Billy Sunday, and Yusho. Not much about the menu (other than it will lean heavy on the proteins) and general location (right around Brush Park) has been released. But in the same dramatic fashion that the two made their Detroit entrance, they’re planning a series of pop-ups around town, starting with a Dec. 4 event at Yemans Street in Hamtramck.

Peterboro Detroit’s old Chinatown at Cass and Peterboro had for more than a decade been anything but a hot destination. But then the Iconic Tattoo parlor appeared,

followed this year by bottle shop 8 Degrees Plato. Meanwhile, restaurateurs Marc Djozlija and Dave Kwiatkowski (of Sugar House, Wright & Co., and Cafe 78) were plotting their own entrance onto the block with the introduction of the Peterboro, a ChineseAmerican concept. To achieve just the right amount of authenticity, the duo called on the talents of chef Brion Wong, a New York-bred chef with tons of culinary experience who had made a splash in Detroit last year when he helped with the restart of Antietam in Eastern Market. When word got around that he left just short of a year in at Antietam, the bids went flying with offers and pop-up opportunities abounding. Djozlija and Kwiatkowski won the young chef over and brought him on as chef de cuisine. Ticketed and non-advertised tasting events for Peterboro have been rolling all fall while construction crews get the restaurant, a former market, movein ready.

Lady of the House When you try some of chef Kate Williams’ cuisine, you’re taken to a rustic Irish farmhouse, filled with nods to her family’s heritage. She uses an entire animal, from nose to tail, and local farm ingredients to pay respect to all that the fertile Michigan land has to offer. And her worldly cooking experiences in New York, Chicago, Copenhagen, and beyond give her an edge on the scene: homegrown Michigan, with a twist. Formerly the chef behind the creative, French-inflected dishes at now-shuttered Rodin, Williams broke out into the spotlight when she opened Republic Tavern in the GAR Building downtown. This year she struck out on her own, seeking her own space, to be called Lady of the House, herself being the lady. Before it launches she’s planning a nationwide cooking tour with Revolver co-founder Peter Dalinowski. Together, they’ll host a variety of culinary events in several major cities. When she’s gotten some of

that wanderlust out of her system, she plans to launch sometime in 2016 in Corktown.

Conserva, Ferndale Atomic Chicken, Detroit After Matthew Baldridge left his posts cooking at places like Cliff Bell’s and the Rattlesnake Club, he and partner Janna Coumoundouros started venturing into the growing pop-up world, hosting interesting events that used such titillating ingredients as Spam and Faygo. The goal: create an unpretentious dinner club environment where neither food nor hosts take themselves too seriously. Well, the duo are now in the midst of taking on the brick-andmortar scene, with the addition of two restaurant concepts: The Conserva, to be installed in a former bank building on Nine Mile Road, where guests will be served a variety of meats, seafood, pickled vegetables, mustards, and aiolis in jars, all prepared using the Italian process the space is named for. Add to that an extensive wine and beer service and the spot sounds like a continuation of the couple’s approach to bringing fun to the dinner table. While they’re getting that space into shape, Baldridge and Coumoundouros are also embarking on a fast-casual, chef-driven soul food concept in a former Popeyes Chicken at Woodward and Milwaukee Avenues in New Center. Though that area has yet to attract the critical mass often associated with the success of a restaurant (the Zenith in the Fisher Building, not too far away, shuttered within a year, citing slow business), the eventual completion of the M-1 project could mean more foot traffic will be in store for the neighborhood. Although the new restaurants have taken priority as of late, the couple still manages to hold the occasional pop-up. Both locations are slated for spring openings, but knowing the delays that often occur in the planning process, we’ll see how that goes. n 2015 | eat | metrotimes | 69



traditionally been a challenge. Foster, a Schoolcraft alum, says, “I had to leave Detroit in 2005. But there’s been a complete turnaround in the six years I was gone.” That’s because restaurateurs started banking on the potential in Detroit. The well-worn tales of empty storefronts waiting for revival aside, there was a need to stock kitchens with talent so they could feed an increasingly hungry audience. Luckily, expatriates who’d been honing their skills elsewhere were happy to answer the call. “I had moved to D.C.,” Foster says, “but Detroit needed good pastries. People were saying, ‘We need you.’ I’ve never been told I was needed. I see things a little differently than most people do now. It’s been a lot of fun asking people what they want and creating it.” It can still be a difficult choice to stay in Detroit. Many restaurants have a dozen or so chefs, but only one pastry chef. “It’s a hard position to get, because there’s only one position,” Kellett says. But Kellett urges patience. “A lot of people feel like they want to leave Detroit and go to Chicago. But look at Gold Cash Gold, Selden Standard… all these great restaurants popping up. Aren’t there 40 new restaurants opening next year?” Ashton agrees. “I feel like

I hear about another new restaurant opening all the time, so I definitely think there should be many positions available,” she says. One thing local pastry chefs are split on is the idea of standalone pastry restaurants, and whether the Detroit market can support a wave of those kinds of stations. Foster’s Coffee and (___) is certainly an exception, but the road to the grand opening included many years of pop-up work and securing a space from a development corporation. “It’s something I’ve been contemplating for the last couple years,” Robison says. “It’s kind of difficult where we are now just because I don’t think there’s a huge market for specialty pastry shops. There’s a handful around the city. It’s hard to make money when you’re doing a high-quality product” because of the costs associated with it. Selimagic is a little more optimistic. “I can see myself opening a standalone shop in the future, and I believe that I will be successful in doing so,” she says. “But it’s better right now to work in a larger kitchen because there is a larger variety of sources available. Overall, you have a better outlook on what customers admire the most by the large amount of sales for that particular dish.” n 2015 | eat | metrotimes | 71


Jack White’s ‘Lazaretto Tour’ guacamole

At home Some of Detroit’s best chefs dish on the recipes you should be making at home this winter We love eating out. This whole issue is basically dedicated to that idea. But the vast majority of meals we’ll consume this year will be served at home. There are quite literally endless venues to find a new recipe or an upgrade on an old classic, but very few of those will be taken from the menus and home kitchens of the folks delighting you across Detroit’s glorious dining scene. Which is why we asked them to share some of their favorites with you. There are 10, because 10 is a nice round number and that’s all we had room for. Bon appétit. 72 | metrotimes | eat | 2015


AREPAS DEL REY Luckily for Venezuelan cooks like Zoraida Gutierrez at El Rey de las Arepas, in the 1950s an engineer invented a precooked corn flour, marketing it with the slogan “No more pounding!” (of raw corn in a mortar). PAN flour is available at Amazon or Walmart online. Here’s Zoraida’s recipe. INGREDIENTS 2 1/2 cups water 2 cups PAN flour 1 teaspoon salt Pour water into a container. Add salt and PAN flour gradually. Knead until a smooth dough is formed and let rest for 3 minutes. Separate dough into 10 portions. Shape one portion into a ball, then press it with your palms to form a large patty 3 1/2 inches in diameter. Place onto a griddle or frying pan over medium heat. Brown on each side for 5 minutes. Split the arepa sideways (like an English muffin) and stuff it with the filling you desire. Serve hot.

MAPLE & HARISSA ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS This dish from Chris Franz, the executive chef at the Rattlesnake Club in Detroit, is one of his favorites. It’s vegetarian, but not vegan (it calls for butter). Brussels sprouts, a long vilified veggie, has made a recent resurgence in the culinary world. And according to Franz, they aren’t difficult to make. “Brussels sprouts always go over well with those keeping a vegetarian diet,” he said. “They are delicious and very easy to prepare.” INGREDIENTS 1/4 cup canola oil 2 1/4 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed & halved lengthwise 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened and cut into tablespoons 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 1/4 cup pure (Michigan-made) maple syrup 1 tablespoon Harissa paste 1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 cup vacuum-packed roasted chestnuts, coarsely chopped

(toasted walnuts make a good substitute) 1 tablespoon walnut oil Salt and freshly ground pepper Heat the canola oil in a very large skillet until shimmering. Add the Brussels sprouts and season with salt and pepper. Cook over high heat without stirring until they are browned, about 2 minutes. Turn the heat down to mediumhigh. Add the unsalted butter and brown sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the brown sugar is melted. Add the maple syrup and harissa, stirring occasionally, until the Brussels sprouts are just crisptender, about 7 minutes. Stir in the cider vinegar and the chestnuts and cook until heated through. Drizzle with walnut oil and toss mixture gently. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the Brussels sprouts and chestnuts to a bowl. Bring the remaining liquid to a boil over high heat and cook until thickened slightly, about 2 minutes. Pour the sauce over the Brussels sprouts and serve. Serves 8.

QUINOA TOWER Local Kitchen and Bar’s Jared Bobkin says, “This is a recipe that has been on our menu for a while, and we’ve gotten some great feedback from it from both the vegetarian and vegan crowd, as well as meat eaters. I love it because it’s pretty easy to make for cooks at any level, and it’s delicious. It’s a great dish for people who want to serve a meatless dish, but don’t want to settle for just a salad.” INGREDIENTS 4 cups cooked quinoa 2 teaspoons celeriac, diced small 2 teaspoons butternut squash, diced small 2 teaspoons shiitake mushrooms, julienned 2 ounces white wine 1 tablespoons golden beet puree 1 tablespoons charmoula 1 teaspoon cranberry relish

Golden Beet Puree 2 pounds cooked golden beets 2 ounces white balsamic vinegar (Purée in a blender until smooth. Season with salt.) Charmoula 1 bunch parsley 1 bunch cilantro 1 tablespoon toasted cumin seeds 1 cup olive oil 1/3 cup lime juice (Add all into a blender except the olive oil, turn on high speed, and slowly drizzle in oil; season with salt.) Cranberry Relish 2 pounds fresh cranberries 1 orange zested 1 cinnamon stick 1/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup red wine vinegar (In a sauce pot add all ingredients and cook until cranberries burst and it creates a jam-like relish consistency.) Saute celeriac, butternut squash, celeriac, and mushrooms until tender. Add cooked quinoa and gently heat through. Add wine and cook down until almost completely evaporated. Season with salt. On the plate smear the golden beet puree. On top of the puree, using a ring mold, stuff the quinoa mixture to form a tower. Around the outside edge of the plate drizzle the charmoula. Dollop a small amount of cranberry relish next to one side of the quinoa tower. Garnish with pickled onions and arugula on top of the tower

FRIED LUMPIA Dorothy Hernandez and Jake Williams of the pop-up Sarap specialize in Filipino dishes with a twist. This creation was a hit at a recent event. INGREDIENTS 1/2 pound ground beef 1/2 pound ground pork 1 tablespoon chili powder 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon of salt 1 teaspoon of pepper

1 medium onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 carrots, small dice 3 scallions, chopped 1 package of spring roll wrappers Vegetable oil for sautéing and frying Kosher salt Sunflower sprouts, for garnish Sweet and sour sauce or sweet chili sauce for dipping Pickled vegetables 4 Kirby cucumbers, thinly sliced 2 carrots, julienne 1 cup apple cider or rice wine vinegar 1/2 cup sugar 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup water, plus more, if needed 1 jalapeno, cut into slices 3 cloves garlic, peeled (Combine vinegar with water, salt, and sugar in a small saucepan. Heat to a boil and then reduce to a simmer and stir to dissolve the sugar. Let simmer for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let cool. Place cucumbers, carrots, jalapeno, and garlic in a clean, dry glass container just large enough to hold everything. Pour brine over vegetables to cover completely. If not submerged, add cold water to cover. Cover; refrigerate at least 1 hour.) Season the ground beef and pork with chili powder, paprika, soy sauce, salt, and pepper. Sauté onions in about 1 tablespoon of oil until caramelized. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the meat mixture and brown. Turn off the heat. Add the diced carrots and scallions to the meat mixture. Let cool. To roll the lumpia, turn one wrapper so it’s in a diamond and one of the corners are facing you. Place a tablespoon of mixture about an inch up away from the corner and shape into a log. Roll up the corner closest to you and over the mixture until you use up half of the wrapper. Fold in the right and left sides. Continue rolling the lumpia until you have a final corner. 2015 | eat | metrotimes | 73


Using a brush or your fingers, apply water to the corner to seal the lumpia (you can also use an egg wash). Heat a pot of vegetable oil to 375 degrees. Fry the lumpia, about 4-5 at a time, making sure not to crowd the pot, until golden brown and crispy. Sprinkle with salt while still hot. Makes about 25 lumpia. Serve with sauce and garnish with sunflower sprouts and pickled vegetables.

PUMPKIN COUSCOUS RISOTTO Corktown Jesse, aka Jesse Knott, has earned fame for his pop-up dining events at Detroit City Distillery and elsewhere. He offers this recipe as an example of a crowd-pleasing dish. INGREDIENTS 1 medium pie pumpkin 1/2 cup butter (1 stick) 1/2 cup flour 1 quart milk 3/4 cup dry white wine 1/2 pound Taleggio cheese (rind removed) 5 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 5 teaspoons kosher salt Pinch cayenne pepper Pinch fresh grated nutmeg 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, picked from stem 1/4 cup fresh parsley chiffonade 1 tablespoon minced chive Couscous 3 cups Israeli couscous 2 cups veggie or chicken stock 2 quarts water (Combine stock and water in a pot and season with a handful of salt. When liquid is at a rolling boil, add couscous and give a stir so that it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Cook couscous al dente, for approximately 4 minutes. Strain Peel and seed pumpkin and dice into 1/2-inch pieces. Toss with olive oil, and with salt and pepper to taste. Roast pumpkin at 425 degrees until golden brown and soft but not mushy. For the Mornay sauce, create a roux by melting the butter on medium in a saucepan. Add the minced garlic until golden in color and then add

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in your flour while constantly stirring it in with a whisk. Once your flour is completely incorporated, start pouring the milk in a steady slow stream. Don’t stop whisking while bringing sauce to a simmer for 5 minutes. The Mornay sauce should be coming together. Turn the stove down to low heat and pour in the white wine and keep stirring for a few more minutes. Add Taleggio in small batches. Add salt, cayenne, nutmeg, and lastly the lemon juice. Taste the Mornay and make sure seasoning does not need to be adjusted. Add Mornay sauce to hot couscous in a saucepan until completely and luxuriously coated, but not soupy. Gently stir in roasted pumpkin and then herbs. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Serves 4-6 people as a side.

JACK WHITE’S ‘LAZARETTO TOUR’ GUACAMOLE Early in 2015, Oklahoma University’s student paper leaked the full contract for Jack White’s on-campus performance on the college. The document contained the band’s tour rider, which included this gem: a detailed guacamole recipe, credited to White’s longtime tour manager, Lalo Medina. The secret? Chunky avocado. Also, keep the seeds. INGREDIENTS 8 large, ripe Haas avocados 4 vine-ripened tomatoes, diced 1/2 yellow onion, finely chopped 1 full bunch of cilantro, chopped 4 Serrano peppers, de-veined and chopped 1 lime Salt & pepper to taste Cut the avocados in half the long way, removed the pits and set them aside. Dice the avocados into large cubes with a butter knife, with 3 or 4 slits down, 3 or 4 across. Scoop out the chunks with a spoon, careful to keep the avocado in fairly large chunks. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl, careful not to mush the avocados too much. Once properly mixed and tested, add the pits into the guacamole and even out the top with a spoon or spatula.

Add a half of lime to the top so the surface can be covered with juice (the pits and lime will keep the guac from browning prematurely.) Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until served. Serves a tour party of 31.

PARKS AND REC’S DUTCH BABY POPOVER Chef Sarah Welch had never had a Dutch Baby until she met her boyfriend, chef Cameron Rolka. She and Rolka were working the infamous Sunday brunch at Ann Arbor’s Mani Osteria. She says, “Sundays are always the worst days to work in the industry and so we would try to brighten them by having the most badass staff meal of the week. We made waffles, pancakes, sausage, eggs, and when Cameron was asked to helped me, we made Dutch Babies.” She credits the dish with bringing her and Rolka together, saying, “Since then, making Dutch Babies has always been a reminder of how recipes and food in general, bring people together.” INGREDIENTS Apple slices (caramelized lightly in pan with butter till golden) Apple butter Cinnamon Dutch Baby batter Dutch Baby batter 12 eggs 2 cups whole milk 1/2 cup butter, melted 4 teaspoons vanilla 2 cups flour 2 teaspoons salt (In a mixing bowl whisk eggs and add milk and vanilla. Mix flour and salt in a separate bowl. Slowly incorporate dry mixture into wet mixture, and whisk until smooth. Incorporate butter. Yields about 8 quarts.) When this batter is made take a small cast-iron pan (or muffin tin) and put into 400-degree oven to preheat for 10 minutes. Once the mold is hot, pull out, butter, place 3 slices of apple in the bottom. Pour over enough batter to fill the mold 60 percent up the side and immediately put back in

oven. Bake in oven at 400 degrees until doubled in size and popping over the edge (10-15 minutes, depending on size). Pull out of oven and top with cinnamon, apple butter and sliced (preferably caramelized) apples. Serve immediately. It will fall after 2-3 minutes.

CAULIFLOWER GRATIN This recipe comes from Reid Shipman at farm-to-table restaurant Gold Cash Gold. He says it’s one of his favorite vegetarian preparations for winter vegetables, using a macand-cheese-style sauce to evoke warming, comforting feelings. He tells us, “It’s a little more filling, which makes it perfect for those colder days.” 1 head Cauliflower cleaned 2 tablespoons olive oil Pinch salt Swiss Mornay sauce Swiss Mornay sauce 1/2 cup butter 1/2 cup flour 1 cup whole milk 1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 cup “Italian” bread crumbs (In a sauce pot whisk butter and flour together. Cook on medium heat until a peanut-butter-like consistency is reached. Slowly whisk in warm milk to avoid lumps and allow to cook at a gentle simmer for 10 minutes. Whisk in Swiss cheese. Reserve.) Toss cauliflower, olive oil, and salt in a bowl. Then lay cauliflower out on a sheet tray. Roast at 325 degrees for 15 minutes or until tender. Then, in an oven-safe baking dish, lay the cauliflower in a single (crowded) layer. Drizzle the Swiss Mornay over the cauliflower. Top with just enough Parmesan and bread crumb. Bake at 375 degrees until the cheese and bread crumbs start to get toasted. Serve and enjoy.


JOHNNY NOODLE KING GYOZA Jacques Driscoll was kind enough to share with us this recipe for Japanese pork dumplings, a popular side dish from his Southwest Detroit noodle house. 60 wonton wrappers (found at better Asian markets) 1 pound ground pork 3 ounces pork belly fat 1 ounce garlic 1 ounce ginger 2 ounces fish sauce 2 ounces soy sauce 3 ounces cabbage Pinch of salt Pinch of white pepper Pinch of Thai chilies To make the filling, pulse garlic and ginger in a blender or food processer. Remove stems from Thai chili and mince by hand. Finely shred chopped cabbage in food processer, then squeeze cabbage in a towel or cheesecloth to remove all liquid. In a large mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients until well incorporated and there is no standing liquid. Label. Date. Refrigerate. To make dumplings, lay out wrappers on a full sheet tray with parchment. Fill a pan with room temperature water and set to the side. Note: Don’t lay out too many wrappers at one time. The wrappers will begin to dry out. Place gyoza filling on the center of the wrappers. Wet your finger with the water and use your finger to wet the edge of the wrapper. Note: Do not soak the gyoza; you only need a little water. Fold the gyoza in half and seal dumpling tightly, leaving no air pockets. Wet one side of the dumpling and starting about a centimeter in fold the dumpling backward about a 1/2 centimeter. Then move another centimeter in and repeat. Repeat this process until you have five folds. Once complete, place very lightly damp towels on top of dumplings to prevent them from drying out. Fry until cooked through. Makes 60 gyoza.

EL NACIMIENTO MEXICAN RESTAURANT’S TINGA DE POLLO This recipe comes from Alvaro Padilla of Southwest Detroit’s El Nacimiento Mexican Restaurant. This spicy stew features shredded chicken, tomato, and chipotle peppers, spreading warmth through the winter. Best of all, it can be served in a variety of ways, and can be frozen for as long as a month. INGREDIENTS 2 medium chicken breasts 1 whole Roma tomato, halved 1 medium Spanish onion 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon chicken bullion 1 teaspoon salt 4 fresh Roma tomatoes, diced 3 chipotle peppers, diced 2 garlic cloves, diced 1 teaspoon oregano 4 corn tostadas 1 cup of shredded lettuce 1 medium avocado 1/2 cup of sour cream Bring a medium pot of water to boil, combine 2 medium chicken breasts, 1 whole Roma tomato halved, 1/2 medium Spanish onion, bay leaf, 1 tablespoon chicken bullion, and 1 teaspoon salt and let cook for approximately 30 minutes or until fully cooked. Remove from pot and let cool off for 10 minutes so that you can shred the chicken by hand into small pieces. Save 1 cup of the broth for the next step. While the chicken is cooking, combine 3 fresh, diced Roma tomatoes, 3 diced chipotle

peppers, 1/2 medium diced Spanish onion, 2 diced garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon oregano in another pot to create your sauce. When your chicken is done boiling, add the broth to the saucepot and let cook on medium heat for 15 minutes. Place the cooked sauce in a blender and blend until you get a chunky consistency. Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil to a medium saucepan at medium heat. Add 1/2 Spanish onion, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper to sauté in pan. Add shredded chicken to pan to sear. Add sauce and cook until you evaporate most of the water. Spread spicy chicken on tostadas, gorditas, flautas, sopes, and chimichangas, then garnish with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, avocado, and sour cream to taste. Rose | Pomegranate | Almond From Local Kitchen and Bar’s Ben Robison comes this high-end dessert that the more advanced home chef might enjoy tackling. INGREDIENTS Rose water panna cotta Pomegranate molasses gelee Almond financier Garnish Citrus zest Pomegranate juice Pomegranate seeds Basil Rose water panna cotta 12 grams sheet gelatin 19 ounces cream 5.25 ounces sugar 15 ounces cream 1.5 ounces rose water

(Bloom gelatin in ice water. Scald first cream and sugar together and whisk in bloomed gelatin. Strain hot cream into second cream measurement and stir in rose water. Divide cream into desired containers and refrigerate until gelatin has set.) Pomegranate molasses gelee 4 grams sheet gelatin 3.5 ounces pomegranate molasses 4.5 ounces water 1 ounce sugar (Bloom gelatin in ice water. Bring pomegranate molasses, water, and sugar to a boil and whisk in bloomed gelatin. Allow gelee to cool to room temperature. Portion gelee onto the finished panna cottas and refrigerate until gelatin has set.) Almond financier 4 ounces butter 5 ounces egg whites 9 ounces sugar 3 ounces AP flour 4 ounces almond flour (Boil butter over medium high heat whisking constantly until butter and solids are brown. Pour into a cool container and reserve. Whip egg whites until they begin to ribbon, rein in sugar, and continue to whip to stiff peaks. In multiple additions, mix both flours and brown butter into the meringue, beginning with the flours and ending with the butter. Scoop batter into small muffin tins and bake at 350 degrees until done.) Makes 6 portions.

Ben Robison’s Rose-Pomegranate-Almond dessert, from Local Kitchen and Bar. 2015 | eat | metrotimes | 75


Selected Dining Listings Abbibo American Bar & Restaurant 76 Macomb Place, Mount Clemens; 586-954-1700: Open since fall of 2014, Abbibo features American dining and spirits, with a menu that encompasses such fare as cheeseburgers, chicken strips, fattoush and taco salads. Drop in for deals on Tuesdays ($1 beef or chicken tacos, soft or hard shell) or Thursdays ($5 burgers with fries). See their Facebook page for more information. Ale Mary’s Beer Hall 316 S. Main St, Royal Oak; 248-268-1917; alemarysbeer. com: Situated in downtown Royal Oak, attached to Tom’s Oyster Bar, sits Ale Mary’s. It’s a newish, beer-focused bar that’s attracted quite a bit of attention from both locals and those far and wide. We wrote about their food menu and commented on the environs earlier this year. We praised them quite wholly. Ali-Baba Shish Kabob 3124 Caniff Ave., Hamtramck; 313-265-3701; Serving authentic, flavorful, affordable and bountiful Middle Eastern food, Ali-Baba has you covered for quick meals sure to leave you smiling. American Coney Island 114 W. Lafayette Blvd., Detroit; 313-961-7758; americanconeyisland.com: The redwhite-and-blue parlor of Detroit-style frankfurters is a shrine to the hard work of several generations of the Keros family, which first sold them on this very corner. Voted Best Coney Island in Detroit by our readers. Anchor Bar & Grill 450 W. Fort St., Detroit; 313-964-9127: Those who aren’t swayed by the Anchor’s sturdy tavern fare may enjoy the watering hole’s wealth of local history. Pre-dating Prohibition, this institution has enough vintage local political, media, and sports photos and memorabilia to make a museum envious. Andiamo Italia 7096 E. 14 Mile Rd., Warren; 586-268-3200; andiamoitalia. com: The flagship of the Andiamo minichain, with the kitchen led by chef Pete Lech. Their newly expanded banquet facility can cater parties or business functions from 50 to 650 people in “luxurious splendor.” See website for other locations. Ardmore Park Place Cafe 26717 Little Mack Ave, St. Clair Shores; 586-4434597; ardmoreparkplace.com: American fare of small plates, salads and entrées ranging from beef and pork to chicken, seafood and pasta at this intimate spot inside a house from the 1850s. Armando’s Mexican Restaurant 4242 Vernor Highway; 313-554-0666; mexicantown.com/armandos: A lively and colorful interior welcomes you to a staple serving an ample menu of Mexican favorites. Check out the lunch buffet.

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Atwater in the Park 1175 Lakepointe St., Grosse Pointe Park; 313-3445104; atwaterbeer.com: Excellent new microbrewery in retrofitted church with an outdoor German biergarten. Over 20 local beers on tap and great kielbasa, spaetzle, sauerbraten and more at this Munich-style gem in the Park. Bangkok Cafe 323 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale; 248-548-5373: Do an informal poll at Bangkok Café’s carryout station and you’ll find that most people have been coming here for years. It’s all about the consistency that starts with their subtly tasty chicken and vegetable fresh rolls enhanced with mint leaves and a tangy dipping sauce and tom yum gai hot-and-sour soup. If a Thai restaurant is to be measured by its pad Thai, then we’ll vouch for this well-spiced but not dripping-in-sauce version. Even beyond the staples, we’ve yet to find a dish here that hasn’t satisfied our Southeast Asian cravings Beans & Cornbread 29508 Northwestern Hwy., Southfield; 248-208-1680; beanscornbread.com: This is the place for upscale soul food with a fresh twist, including excellent meat loaf, salmon croquettes and a dreamy sweet potato cheesecake. Arrive early and plan to stand in line for this perpetually full house. A busy, colorful dining spot that features bright artwork and a bustling open kitchen. Big Rock Chophouse 245 South Eaton St., Birmingham; 248-647-7774; bigrockchophouse.com: Upscale, eclectic dining indoors and on the patio. Handcrafted signature beers complement the distinctive American fare and top shelf steak. Cigar and martini bar located on 2nd floor. Unique and elegant private dining available. The Bird & the Bread 210 S. Old Woodward Ave., Birmingham; 248-2036600; thebirdandthebread.com: Casual European spot with mussels, pizza, soup, salad, craft beers, and rotisserie chicken. Bistro 82 401 S. Lafayette Ave., Royal Oak; 248-542-0082; bistro82.com: “Ability takes you to the top. Character keeps you there,” boasts the Bistro 82 website. It’s a good motto, and it sets a tone for the experience of Bistro 82 that carries through everything they do. Sabrage nightclub with DJ boothfishtank is upstairs. Blake’s Ciderhouse and Winery 17985 Armada Center Rd., Armada; 586-7849463; blakeshardcider.com: Blake’s Ciderhouse and Winery’s cozy fireplace, great fare as well as its friendly staff make it a great hangout. The new menu has options from salads to rustic pizza, 12 hard ciders, plus seasonal flavors and wine. Blake’s Hard Cider is made from Blake’s apples that have been grown locally in Armada for over 67 years. Blufin Sushi 18584 Mack Ave., Grosse Pointe Farms; 313-332-0050; blufinsushi.com: Sushi dominates the

offerings, but a glance at the other side of the menu shows pan-Asian influences, and a general Pacific Island sensibility carries through to the decor. Bobcat Bonnie’s 1800 Michigan Ave.; 313-962-1383; bobcatbonnies.com: This new Corktown gastropub is already a neighborhood favorite for its weekly deals, affordable happy hour, and eclectic menu including tikka masala, a dynamite burger, and shareables menu. Try the lamb meatballs or mushroom ceviche. Bogartz Sports & Music Cafe 17441 Mack Ave., Detroit; 313-885-3995: Casual American neighborhood bar and grill featuring pizza, bread knots, onion rings, burgers, salads, fish tacos and more. Bonefish Grill 660 W. Big Beaver Rd., Troy; 248-269-0276; bonefishgrill.com: This contemporary take on seafood (and snacks and steaks) is the local outpost of the chain that besides offering a host of delectable seafood dishes also sports local craft cocktail and beer options. Boston’s 15133 Hall Rd., Shelby Township; 586-247-4992; bostons.com: With a menu bursting at the seams -- there are more than 100 offerings, Boston’s aims to dish up something for everybody, Burgers, wings, pizza, apps, pastas and more are done the right way with quality ingredients. Bourbons on Sycamore 118 Sycamore St., Wyandotte; 734-556-3258; bourbonsbayou.com; Downriver Cajunthemed bar and grill in downtown Wyandotte featuring seafood, burgers and pizza. Over 80 bottles of whiskey. Bread Basket Deli Many southeastern Michigan locations at breadbasketdelis. com: Bread Basket Deli is a Michigan favorite and has “The Best Corned Beef, Period.” Founded in 1977, The Bread Basket Deli has earned national acclaim as the best old-fashioned deli serving hot corned beef in metro Detroit. Owner Al Winkler (“Mr. Deli”) and his family are committed to serving only the freshest, highest quality sandwiches, soups and salads. Bucharest Grill 2040 Park Ave. and 1623 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-965-3111; bucharestgrill.com: The Bucharest Grill is a downtown favorite for a quick lunch at a great price or for the night crowd looking for great food. Located inside the Park Bar, Bucharest is a quick walk from the ballpark and right in the center of the Foxtown nightlife. The food ranges from traditional Romanian dishes to middle eastern cuisine and hot dogs dressed every way imaginable. Everything is handmade as it should be in a traditional kitchen with original recipes that you won’t find anywhere else: pork dishes. In fact, more than half of the menu items contain ground pork in one form or another. New location opening December 2015 at 110 Piquette St., Detroit; more to open in 2016.

Buddy’s Restaurant & Pizzeria see buddyspizza.com for their many southeastern Michigan locations: Buddy’s is a Detroit institution and a perpetual winner of Metro Times Best of Detroit neighborhood pizza category. After living a full life as a neighborhood speakeasy, Buddy’s original location on Conant Street only started pumping out its award-winning pizza in 1946. Cadieux Cafe 4300 Cadieux Rd.; 313882-8560; cadieuxcafe.com: The french fries (called “pomfrites”) are essential eating, along with another core element of Belgian cuisine: mussels steamed in white wine and vegetables and accompanied by both clarified butter and a mustard-and-vinegar sauce. Live bands play many of the weekends. Kitchen is open 4-11 p.m. SundayThursday, 4 p.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday. Bar open until 2 a.m. every night. Late-night menu is served until 1:30 a.m. Features Belgian feather bowling. Caesar Windsor 377 Riverside Dr., Windsor, Ontario; 800-991-7777; caesars.com/caesars-windsor: Caesar Windsor is a one-stop destination for your trip, with one of the best casino’s you’ll find, a gorgeous hotel, and of course, award-winning food options that include Neros Steakhouse, Taza Mediterranean Grill, Johnny Rockets and small cafes to keep you happy. Cafe Al Karar 1368 Broadway St., Detroit; 313-265-3176; cafealkarar.com: Middle Eastern & Mediterranean cuisine in downtown Detroit featuring interesting mash-ups and a unique menu. If you like things spicy, try the house-made hot sauce. Café Sushi 1933 W. Maple Rd., Troy; 248-280-1831: When you walk into Café Sushi you are greeted by a sleek newly refurbished sushi bar. The food is delicious, the service is great, and there is something for every kind of diner, timid or adventurous. Campau Tower 10337 Joseph Campau, Hamtramck; 313-265-3694; rockcityeatery.com: Newly reopened burger joint featuring huge burgers and hot dogs, tater tots, tortellini mac and cheese and more. Affordable and unpretentious. Catch 22 Bistro 2430 Pointe Tremble Rd., Algonac; 810-794-4844; catch22bistro. net: American family restaurant with long bar for adults. Seafood, steaks, pasta, salads, sandwiches and more. Known for their Cajun chicken sandwich, pasta, lake perch, pizza and home-made salad dressing. Take the nearby car ferry to Harsen’s Island and explore before or after your meal. CAYA Smokehouse Grill 1403 South Commerce Rd., Wolverine Lake; 248-438-6741; cayagrill.com: “CAYA” stands for “come as you are,” an apt summary of the upscale casual trend dominating the local dining scene these days. The unassuming restaurant


combines barbecue’s simplicity with the exacting palate of an experienced chef, combining ingredients available in the local area and ideas from cuisines the world over to produce honest and delicious food. The cooks clearly respect the food they’re cooking, and do their utmost to present it as ideally and flavorfully as possible. Central Kitchen + Bar 660 Woodward Ave.; 313-963-9000; centraldetroit.com: Downtown’s newest gathering spot combines an upscale but relaxed and modern atmosphere with an inventive menu and tantalizing cocktail and craft brew offerings. It’s American cuisine with all its comforts but given a twist while focusing on local and seasonal ingredients. Chicken Shack 1320 E. 11 Mile Rd.; 248541-5100; chickenshack.com: Since starting in Royal Oak in 1956, Chicken Shack has been selling “broasted” chicken, pressure cooking birds in their own juices. It’s been wildly successful, with 18 locations listed at its website. Chocolate Bar Cafe 20737 Mack Ave., Grosse Pointe Woods; 313-881-2888; chocolatebar-cafe.com: Old-fashioned soda fountain serving classic sundaes, malts, real sodas and some of the best homemade chocolates around. The Chop House 322 S. Main St., Ann Arbor; 734-669-9977; thechophouserestaurant.com: Beautiful, comfy and elegant, this traditional chop house serves prime beef, fine grain-fed protein and exceptional premium wines. Christine’s Cuisine 729 E. Nine Mile Rd.; 248-584-3354: A casual, comfortable place to dine, whose menu dances from Eastern European into Italy, America, France, and burritoville. Daily house specials. City Market 575 Brush St.; 313-2220000: Serving Detroit since 1987, City Market is downtown Detroit’s neighborhood store offering fine and specialty foods as well as ingredients for everyday meals or gourmet get togethers. City Market also offers plenty of organic, kosher and vegfriendly options and accommodates all dietary needs. CJ Barrymore’s 21750 Hall Rd., Clinton Twp.; 586-469-2800; cjbarrymores. com: Twenty-five acres of bumper cars, mini bowling, arcade games, putt-putt, batting cages and darn good pizza. Fun for the whole family. CK Diggs 2010 W. Auburn Rd., Rochester Hills; 248-853-6600; ckdiggs.com: This family owned American bistro is a favorite for its extensive beer selection (100+), big screen TVs, gorgeous patio, and bountiful menu sporting everything from seafood to pizza to American classics.

Claddagh Irish Pubs 17800 Haggerty Rd., Livonia; 734-542-8141; claddaghirishpubs.com: Claddagh Irish Pubs bring the best of Ireland to America. The restaurant has a modern twist on the finest traditional Irish cuisine paired with perfect pints of beer in an authentic and friendly setting. Pick a night with traditional Irish music which friends and neighbors come together to enjoy food and drink and socialize, which is in the tradition of the pubs or “public houses” in Ireland that serve as town gathering places. Clarkston Union Bar & Kitchen 54 South Main St., Clarkston; 248-6206100; clarkstonunion.com: Authentic American comfort food gets an updated spin here all in a cozy setting built to make you feel right at home. Cloverleaf Fine Wine & Craft Beer 711 S. Main St., Royal Oak; 248-3570400; cloverleafwine.com: Tons of great wine and craft beer are joyously complemented by a friendly and knowledgeable staff at this downtown Royal Oak gem. Saturday wine tastings to boot. Wine and beer enthusiasts take note. Coach Insignia 200 Renaissance Center, 2nd Floor, Detroit; coachinsigniadetroit. com: This eclectic chophouse is the United States’ second-highest restaurant and is located at the top of the GM Global Renaissance Center. Coach Insignia features incomparable food, great service and a world-class wine list to accompany a panoramic view of Detroit and our Canadian neighbors. Handicap accessible; dress code: no jeans. Como’s 22812 Woodward Ave., Ferndale; 248-548-5005; comosferndale.com: Though they do serve pizzas and pastas, Como’s is best-known as a lively bar scene, particularly on their commodious tent patio, even on a frigid night. Compari’s on the Park 350 S. Main St., Plymouth; 734-416-0100; comparisdining.com: Authentic Italian fare, with outdoor dining on a good summer day. Several tables take over a generous portion of the downtown sidewalk during lunch or dinner, shaded beneath white umbrellas. Cork Wine Pub 23810 Woodward Ave, Pleasant Ridge; 248-544-2675; corkwinepub.org: Contemporary gastropub offering locally sourced made from scratch goodness. Eclectic wine and food menu with popular favorites like the Brick Roll, Amherst Egg and Butterscotch Pudding. Craft Work 8047 Agnes St., Detroit; 313-469-0976; craftworkdetroit. com: Trendy contemporary American restaurant open for dinner in West Village next to Indian Village. Soups, salads, chicken, fish, sandwiches and an incredible French dip sandwich. 2015 | eat | metrotimes | 77


Crazy Gringo’s Mexican Cantina 34802 S. Gratiot Ave., Clinton Township; 586213-1565: Fresh salsas and Mexican fare from enchiladas to guac to margaritas and more. A new addition that’s already become locals favorite Mexican night out. Dave & Buster’s 45511 Park Ave., Utica; 586-930-1515; 19375 Victor Parkway, Livonia; 734-452-4600; daveandbusters.com: D&B’s serves up big portions of tender ribs, good halfpound burgers, broccoli-and-cheddar soup and over-the-top desserts. Detroit’s Finest Coney Island 25801 Jefferson Ave., St. Clair Shores; 586777-4002; detroitsfinestconeyisland. com: Greater Detroit is blessed with the delicious casual comfort food of coney islands. Coney dogs, fries, pitas, wraps, sandwiches, breakfast all day. What more could you want? Detroit Style Pizza Co. 28630 Harper Ave., St. Clair Shores; 586-445-2810; detroitstylepizza.co: Specializing in Detroit-style square deep dish pizza, it’s no wonder Shawn Randazzo’s chain has won a Pizza Expo World Champion Pizza Maker Award. Dickey’s BBQ 23123 Woodward Ave., Ferndale, 248-565-3355; 3672 Rochester Rd., Troy, 248-250-9263; 41700 Garfield Rd., Clinton Twp., 586-286-4400; see more locations at dickeys.com: Casual Texas-style BBQ chain offering ribs, mac and cheese, pulled pork and other great BBQ favorites. Dime Store 719 Griswold St., Detroit; 313-962-9106; eatatdimestore.com: New American brunch bar inside the Chrysler House building in downtown Detroit has everything a food lover wants: cheesesteak benny, Korean BBQ sandwich, house-made sausage, mac and cheese, wine, beer and more. The Double D Bar and Grill. 240 N. River Rd., Mount Clemens; 586-231-0134: A good-sized bar and grill located on the Clinton River. Double D’s offers the usual bar fare, such as burgers and sandwiches, as well as seafood and pizza. The bar features a wide selection of Michigan-made beers on tap, a list of Michigan-made wines, as well as cocktails made with (you guessed it) Michigan-made liquors. Floor-toceiling windows offer plenty of natural light, as well as stunning views of the riverfront. Draught Horse Brewery 57721 Grand River Ave., New Hudson; 248-617-3000; draughthorsebrewery.com: Southeast Michigan’s newest and hippest brewery offers passionately crafted and locally brewed beers. In addition to that, Draught Horse also boasts a wide-ranging and full food menu with pizzas, mac and cheese, sandwiches, wings, salads and appetizers. Basically, a better bar food menu.

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Elie’s Mediterranean Grill/Bar 263 Pierce St.; 248-647-2420; eliesgrill. com: Elie’s in Birmingham has evolved since it opened in the early 1990s. What was once a quaint, quick lunch spot is now a cool downtown bar and grill serving authentic Mediterranean food, traditional Lebanese dishes, and a roster of inventive fusion entrees.

Gator Jakes Bar & Grill 36863 Van Dyke Ave., Sterling Heights; 586-983-3700: Colorful Cajun-themed sports bar and grill with mouth-watering burgers, pizza, steak and more.

The Emory 22700 Woodward Ave., Ferndale: Whether it is the most exciting new craft beers, brunch, cocktails or elevated bar fare, the Emory excels in all manner of gastropub offerings. The sleek interior is great for any occasion, from birthdays to blind dates.

Gaucho Brazilian Steakhouse 39550 Seven Mile Rd., Northville; 248-3807770; gauchosteakhouse.com: Brazilian churrascaria (steakhouse) offering an endless carousel of meats. Servers carve 16 different meats tableside. There’s also a salad bar with 40 hot and cold dishes for your enjoyment.

Exodos 528 Monroe, Detroit; 313962-1300: Hottest DJs in Detroit. The original rooftop lounge. Try their brandnew food menu.

Gold Cash Gold 2100 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-242-0770; goldcashgolddetroit.com. Conscientiously sourced, carefully crafted, and uniquely Detroit. The dishes served are a nod to the South, but rooted in Old World tradition.

Fenton Fire Hall 201 S. Leroy St., Fenton; 810-936-0442; fentonfirehall.com: Contemporary American restaurant featuring burgers, mac & cheese, Korean BBQ ribs, chili, armadillo eggs and more. Large beer selection with numerous Michigan beers on tap. Fiamma Grille 380 S. Main St., Plymouth; 734-416-9340; fiammagrille. com: Upscale dining and setting awaits at Fiamma, which delights with small plates, plentiful and succulent meat and seafood, handmade pastas, a cozy bar and live music. Firebird Tavern 419 Monroe St., Detroit; 313-782-4189; firebirdtavern.com: With Windsor only a short jaunt away, it’s surprising that it’s taken so long for poutine, a Canadian specialty of french fries, brown gravy and cheese curds, to gain a foothold here in the Detroit area. Perhaps, with the stellar example set by Firebird’s poutine plate, we’ll see more places try this cousin of chili cheese fries — but they won’t measure up to Firebird’s without some serious effort: a simply exquisite short-rib gravy — rich, smooth and flavorful — and creamy cheese curds make the humble plate of fries into a savory, near-decadent experience. The Franklin Grill 32760 Franklin Rd., Franklin; 248-865-6600; thefranklingrill.com: This grill and tavern is housed in a blacksmith shop built back in 1840. It adds to the rustic yet modern charm of the restaurant that’s quite the hidden gem. Franklin does upscale classics right, from lamb chops to filets to whitefish, all in a cozy atmosphere that’s as welcoming as it comes. Frita Batidos 117 W. Washington St., Ann Arbor; 734-761-2882; fritabatidos.com: Downtown Ann Arbor’s best fast casual restaurant and bar for Cuban-inspired food and cocktails. Chef Eve Aronoff’s award winning restaurant has so many amazing picks ... a frita — “a Cuban burger made from spicy chorizo served with shoestring fries on top in a soft egg bun” — and batidos — “tropical

milkshakes made with fresh fruit, crushed ice and a drop of sweetened milk.”

Golden Fleece Restaurant 525 Monroe St., Detroit, 313-962-7093: Authentic Greek cuisine in the heart of Greektown. The best Gyro in town! Gratzi 326 S. Main St., Ann Arbor; 734663-5555; gratzirestaurant.com: Great Italian cuisine served in the former Orpheum Theatre. Metro Times Best Italian Restaurant Winner 2015. Green Lantern 28960 John R, Madison Heights and 15505 15 Mile Rd., Clinton Twp.; greenlanternlounge.com: As in most older pizza palaces, the kitchen first made thin-crusted round pies and only added the deep-dish variety around seven years ago. Both come in four sizes from 10 inches ($5.35-$5.95) to 16 inches ($10.50-$11.95) with the 10-inch mini suitable for two. The price structure here and throughout the menu is quite reasonable, another explanation for the Green Lantern’s popularity. The Grille Midtown 3919 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-832-0892; thegrillemidtown.com: Casual upscale American restaurant mingling a modern interior with exposed brick and offering soups, salads, burgers, seafood, cocktails and more. The Hill Seafood & Chop House 123 Kerchaval Ave., Grosse Pointe Farms; 313-886-8101; thehillgrossepointe.com: Many of the Hill’s “signature dishes” cater to a Reagan-era notion of good eating — surf and turf, lots of blue cheese and bacon in the house salad. Seafood is a strong point. The Hills Bar & Grille 6810 N. Rochester Rd., Rochester; 248-652-4455; thehillsbar.com: Spacious American bar and grill with two-story fireplace, 30-foot-high ceilings, pizza, burgers, pasta, Southwestern dishes, salads, and soups. Try the Piedmontese burger.

Hippies Pizza 121 E. 13 Mile Rd., Royal Oak; 248-733-1111; eathippiespizza.com: With more than 40 pizza toppings, 65 specialty pizzas, multiple awards under their belt (several bestowed by this very publication) and gluten-free options, this pizza-and-more institution is both a fantastic healthy alternative to your traditional pizzeria and a plain-olddelicious pizza joint. Also, they’re open until 3 a.m. on the weekends, just in case you need to get your pizza fix late at night. Hudson Café 1241 Woodward Ave.; 313237-1000; Hudson-cafe.com: Awardwinning food awaits at this perennial favorite for updated brunch fare in a contemporary setting, complete with a coffee bar and fireplace lounge. Ichiban Japanese Bistro 44955 Hayes Rd., Sterling Hts; ichibanjapanesebistro. com; Ichiban Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar 43750 Ford Rd., Canton; ichiban-hibatchi.com: Two locations, slightly different offerings, but both serving up fun, flavorful hibachi meals, where half the experience is enjoying the performance with others, and irresistible sushi. Imperial 22828 Woodward Ave., Ferndale; 248-850-8060; imperialferndale.com: Billed as a combination of “joint, roadhouse, honky-tonk, or tavern,” Imperial is somewhere you’ll always find a cold can of beer, enjoy a great whisky or tequila and if you’re in the mood, Bajastyle tacos on small corn tortillas with ingredients like braised beef barbacoa, queso, chipotle salsa, guacamole, and pickled red onion. Iridescence 2901 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-237-7711; motorcitycasino. com: Iridescence takes 4-diamond dining to new heights. Perched high atop the MotorCity Casino Hotel tower, the restaurant is pure luxury. From the sweeping city views, to the winning entrées, experience true fine dining as the chef prepares your contemporary American and fusion dishes in their open kitchen. The restaurant menu is designed with an eye toward organic and sustainable products. Ironwood Grill 200 N. Main St., Royal Oak; 248-414-1005; ironwoodgrill.net: Serving up some of the best barbecue in the area, with additional locations in Plymouth and Birmingham, Ironwood Grill dishes up comfort food done right whether it’s barbecue or burgers or nachos, and where else can you find all that and bowling? J’s Bar and Grill 2859 Coolidge, Berkley; 248-547-1892; jsbars.com: Yes, PBR is on tap at this neighborhood sports bar. Food menu features sliders, wraps, nachos, burgers, sandwiches, wings, salads and more. Joe’s Hamburgers 3041 Biddle Ave., Wyandotte; 734-285-0420; joeshamburgers.net: This full restaurant offers tasty old-school


sliders, fries, hot dogs, soup, chili and a poutine our readers declared the Best of Detroit. The joint also has brand-new draft systems, with 19 taps to enjoy. They even serve nitro coffee. Johnny Noodle King 2601 W. Fort St., Detroit; 313-309-7946; johnnynoodleking.com: Delicious Asian noodlehouse from restaurateur Jacques Driscoll. Highly lauded ramen spot also features bacon fried rice, shoyu pork belly, sake and more. As a bonus, head over to Driscoll’s Green Dot Stables and try the sliders as well. KouZina 121 N. Main St., Royal Oak; 248629-6500; gokouzina.com: Transport yourself to Greece thru the culinary portal of delicious Greek street food in downtown Royal Oak. KouZina’s simple and simply amazing menu features: homemade pitas, pork, lamb, and chicken gyros, spinach pie, lemon rice soup, and more. La Dulce 115 S. Main St., Royal Oak; 248-268-1719; ladulce.com: Royal Oak welcomed this bright, modern Spanish tapas bar this year and the collective culinary scene is already calling it one of the best new restaurants in Detroit. Small plates for sharing or snacking include authentic takes on Spanish tapas and spins on the classics. La Feria Spanish Tapas Restaurant 4130 Cass Ave., Detroit; 313-285-9081; laferiadetroit.com: Things are bustling at this Midtown gem, which offers authentic small plates Spanish cuisine in a historic Detroit atmosphere. Patatas bravas, skewers, hot and cold tapas, montaditos and more. Whatever you’re ordering, add a pitcher of sangria. Lakes 5500 Crooks Rd, Troy; 248-6467900; lakestroy.com: New to Troy, formerly Northern Lakes Seafood Co., offers fish fresh from the Great Lakes. Seafood flown in daily from Boston, Florida, Hawaii and points beyond. Crisp vegetables hand-selected from local farms. All infused with unique flavors and prepared to perfection by Executive Chef Mike D’Angelo and his skilled culinary team. Add a fine wine of the Leelanau Peninsula, Napa Valley and vineyards around the world, selected by an experienced sommelier, and your meal ascends from excellent to exemplary. Little Z’s 22428 Greater Mack Ave., St. Clair Shores; 586-585-1000; littlezsbbq. com: For some juicy barbecue and a homey feel, this is the place to be. Try some succulent ribs, which fall off the bone, or pulled pork to satisfy your needs for some real comfort food. Logan 115 W. Washington St., Ann Arbor; 734-327-2312; logan-restaurant. com: At Ann Arbor’s Logan you will find knowledgeable “foodies” and the adventurous enjoying this brightly decorated bistro for wildly eclectic and elegant fare. Voted “Best Ann Arbor

Restaurant” in the Metro Times Best of Detroit poll, Logan is “worth a special journey” for Metro Detroiters who want an exceptional culinary experience. Luciano’s 39091 Garfield Rd.; 586-2636540; lucianosfinestitaliancuisine restaurant.com: Located in a prosaic strip mall, Luciano’s is opulently decorated and big enough for an Italian wedding party. Pasta specialties average around $16, and come with soup or salad. The respectable wine list is a mix of Italian and New World vintages. Maccabees at Midtown 5057 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-831-9311; maccabeesdetroit.com: American deli located inside beatufiul Art Deco building next to the Detroit Public Library. Standouts include corned beef, potato pancakes, BLT, surf n’ turf and more. Majestic Cafe 4140 Woodward Ave, Detroit; 313-833-9700; majesticdetroit. com: Situated inside the Majestic Theater complex, this popular spot is known for fresh, seasonal and Detroitlocal ingredients. Pizza, burgers, lobster mac and cheese, beer and more. Plus, their Sunday Brunch features endless mimosas and Bloody Marys. Mario’s 4222 Second Ave., Detroit; 313832-1616; mariosdetroit.com: One of the last of the old-line Italian eateries in Detroit, Mario’s has offered that classic supper club dining experience since 1948: white tablecloths, formally attired servers, valet parking, and everything from soup to nuts. Expect hot and chilled appetizers, salads, pasta, beef, lamb, and veal, seafood, poultry, and house specialties, as well as a full bar and wine list. Mezzevino 120 East Liberty St., Ann Arbor; 888-456-3463; mezzevino.com: Offeres imaginative cuisine, wine and cocktails influenced by the traditions of the Mediterranean. To them, the word mezze means an array of small plates placed before guests creating a display of colors, flavors, textures and aromas. Enjoying mezze may be as simple as sampling small plates or making an entire meal of our creative cuisine. MGM Grand Palette Dining Studio 1777 Third St., (inside MGM Grand Detroit); 313-393-7777; mgmgranddetroit.com: Indulge your creative side at Palette Dining Studio. Created by our awardwinning chefs especially for our allyou-care-to-eat gallery, these inspired creations are a delicious canvas of color, texture, and flavor. Mimi’s Bistro 15318 Jefferson Ave., Grosse Pointe Park; 313-922-4085; mimisonjefferson.com: Small intimate European cafe, bakery and restaurant. Serving breakfast and lunch, Mimi’s is known for its German potato pancakes, Caprese panino, salads, house-made gnocci and more.

The Mirage Banquets & Catering 16980 18 Mile Rd., Clinton Twp.; 586228-2222; themiragebanquets.com: Elegant banquet and catering facility offering Italian staples, meatballs, chicken, and more. Mudgie’s 1300 Porter St., Detroit; 313961-2000; mudgiesdeli.com: People swear by Mudgie’s, and with good reason: Their grass-fed brisket that melts in your mouth, and their famous $45 Mudgie Sandwich which could feed a family for a week. If you like deli meats and sandwiches, Mudgie’s is one place that you shouldn’t pass up. Nero’s Steakhouse @ Caesar’s Windsor 377 Riverside Dr. E., Windsor; 800-9917777; caesarswindsor.com: Upscale gourmet fine dining on the Detroit River. Dry-aged USDA prime beef, steaks, seafood, bison tenderloin, crab cakes, soup, salad. Plus a 1,000-bottle wine cellar and amazing view of the Detroit skyline. Nick’s 22nd Street Steakhouse 48900 Van Dyke Ave., Shelby Twp.; 586-7313900; 22ndstreetsteakhouse.com: Cozy full-service American-Greek steakhouse known for their steaks, prime rib and delicious cherry bread with house-made butter. Wine and spirits also abound. Nico & Vali 744 Wing St., Plymouth; 734-207-7880; nicoandvali.com: Italian restaurants don’t always offer fare as creative as Nico & Vali. The lunch menu is lighter, with pasta and panini, but both begin with a vegetarian-friendly selection of small plates. The dinner menu offers heartier, creative fare, such as prosciutto-wrapped monkfish, Piedmontese beef braciole, and cinghiale, stewed wild boar in tomato sauce. It all comes with the promise that they’ll treat you “as if you were one of the family.” Northern Lakes Seafood 5500 Crooks Rd., Troy; 248-646-7900; lakestroy. com: Upscale American seafood, pasta, gourmet sandwiches and Michigan wine. Fresh fish from the Great Lakes and seafood from abroad are flown in daily. Novi Chop House at Crowne Plaza Detroit-Novi, 27000 Karevich Dr., Novi; 248-305-5210; novichophouse. com: At Novi Chop House, you get more than the atmospheric setting in a upscale hotel. You can expect, exquisite service, an award-winning wine list, and everything from burgers and sandwiches to surf and turf: steaks cooked to order, served with your choice of béarnaise, horseradish, or Detroit zip sauces, as well as Alaskan king crab, lobster tails, and seared scallops. Old Shillelagh 349 Monroe St., Detroit; 313-964-0007; oldshillelagh.com: There’s nothing like a multi-level Irish pub in Greektown! This famed and iconic St. Patty’s Day hotspot is good all year round for Guinness on tap,

shepherd’s pie, Irish stew, and live music from house band Black Mist. Try the 17 local draft beers that rotate daily, and the new food menu. Om Cafe 23136 Woodward Ave, Ferndale; 248-548-1941; omcafe.com: Vegetarian, vegan and macrobiotic deliciousness. It’s under new ownership since last year, and the kitchen’s dedication to providing healthful and flavorful fare is as strong as ever. Palio 347 S. Main St., Ann Arbor; 734930-6100; palioannarbor.com: Named for the famous horse race that runs yearly through Siena, Italy, Palio is a rustic country Italian restaurant featuring authentic Italian cuisine. During summer, enjoy Palio Del Sole, Ann Arbor’s largest and most popular rooftop patio. Parks and Rec Diner 1942 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-446-8370: parksandrecdiner.com: This cozy, sitdown and carry-out diner aims to amp up your breakfast, and that means more than the obligatory brioche French toast. You can expect a mix of such classics as corn cakes, yogurt and granola, or popovers, or such innovations as smoked leek strata or a crêpe with meat and pickles. As much of it as feasible is locally sourced and house-made. Pickles & Rye Deli 6724 Orchard Lake Rd., West Bloomfield; 248-737-3890; picklesandryedeli.com; $$: Jewish deli food done right. Latkes, corned beef, lox, matzo ball soup, corned beef hash omelets, etc. Extensive menu. Plaza Deli 29145 Northwestern Hwy., Southfield; 248-356-2310; theepicureangroup.com; NYC-style deli known for its corned beef, hot pastrami, fresh turkey and more. Polish Village Cafe 2990 Yemans St.; 313-874-5726; polishvillagecafe.us: During peak dining hours, there’s a steady flow of waiting customers first lining up at the bar and sometimes winding up the stairs and out the door. In a space with old-style character, Polish Village serves a few pages of meat-and-potatoes Polish dishes and their accompanying sides. Most entrées run around $8. Prism 555 E. Lafayette St., Detroit; 313-309-2499; greektowncasino.com: Elegant contemporary dinner spot inside Greektown Casino. Steaks, pasta, seafood, lobster bisque, jumbo lobster tail, filet mignon, rib-eye and more mouth-watering goodies inside. Public House 241 W. Nine Mile Rd., Ferndale; 248-850-7420: Ferndale’s Public House wins with a combination of stylish ambience, a low-priced menu of nostalgic snacks and sandwiches, a friendly staff, and a selection of backward-looking, fashion-forward cocktails. 2015 | eat | metrotimes | 79




Real Seafood Company 341 S. Main St., Ann Arbor; 734-769-5960; realseafoodcoannarbor.com: Fresh seafood from the Great Lakes and New England. It’s a perfect restaurant for birthday celebrations or a night on the town. Red Ox Tavern 3773 E. Walton, Auburn Hills; 248-340-7070 and 45411 Park Ave., Utica; 586-726-7070; redoxtavern.com: Large sports bar with over 50 high-def televisions to catch all the games on. Burgers, pizza, pasta, cold Michigan beer and martinis will help delight your night. Re-inventing Eve 300 S. Thayer St., Ann Arbor; everestaurant.com: Celebrated chef Eve Aronoff is ever so close to opening her new restaurant. Eve, of course, was beloved but closed up four years ago. She’s on the verge of a new Eve on South Thayer in the Bell Tower Hotel that is sure to be just as beloved. We’ll all get to experience it soon. The philosophy of Eve Aranoff’s newest restaurant centers around the nurturing, celebratory spirit of conviviality which is central to the Slow Food Movement - the idea of the warmth shared around cooking and eating together. Eve’s menu revolves around the seasonality of ingredients, working with local farmers and purveyors, making food from scratch and sharing in the process of cooking and dining together. Republic Tavern 1942 Grand River Ave., Detroit; 313-446-8360; republictaverndetroit.com: From its historic setting in the Grand Army of the Republic building to its farm-to-table menu of house-made everything, from major protein plates to condiments. Small plates range from lavender green to house cheese to duck liver mousse and potted rillettes. Larger dishes can run the gamut from stuffed local peppers to seafood cassoulet. Republica 1999 Coolidge Highway, Berkley; 248-268-3175; republicaberkley.com: There’s something for everyone here and it’s all done the right way. From burgers to sandwiches to small plates, Republica pumps out dynamite food and complements it with a great roster of craft cocktails and brews. Rockefeller’s Oyster Bar & Grill 15402 Mack Ave, Grosse Pointe Park; 313626-5000; rockefellersoysterbar.com: Upscale oyster bar known for oysters, calamari, lobster mac and cheese and their new feature: Sunday Brunch with bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas. New lunch hours. The Royal Eagle 18745 Old Homestead Dr., Harper Woods; 313-521-1894; theroyaleagle.com: Extremely unique Russian restaurant housed inside St. Sabbas Monastery and staffed by monks! Cozy atmosphere, bi-weekly

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Russian high tea ceremony and great food like borscht, garlic soup, fish, etc. Optional BYOW: bring your own wine. Rubbed 2015 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-265-3684; rubbedindetroit. com: Corktown sandwich shop and charcuterie. Small, casual, hip, delicious. Tons of amazing sandwiches, small plates and dry salt-rubbed meat platters. Sardine Room 340 S. Main St., Plymouth; 734-416-0261; thesardineroom.com: This Plymouth bistro does it all. The menu embraces the classics, serving sirloin, pork chop, turkey leg, burgers, and a raw bar that may offer everything from New England lobster to Manila clams to oysters. But it also leans toward the more adventurous, offering sweetbreads, rabbit, frog legs, foie gras, and roasted bone marrow. The emphasis on cocktails seals the deal. Selden Standard 3921 Second Ave., Detroit; 313-438-5055; seldenstandard. com. The Standard has been solidly packed since it opened, and with good reason. It’s as great a place to dine with a large group as it is to go on a date. They offer seasonal, locally sourced small plates and craft cocktails in a stylish setting. Sweet Lorraine’s Cafe 29101 Greenfield Rd.; 248-559-5985; in the Livonia Marriot Hotel, 17100 N. Laurel Park Dr., Livonia; 734-953-7480; sweetlorraines. com: Casual, fun and sophisticated, award-winning chef Lorraine Platman’s fusion joint has not only marked 25 years, it has prospered and grown. Sweet Lorraine’s Fabulous Mac N Cheez! see macncheez.com for full list of locations: Sweet Lorraine’s extended its brand to include this new enterprise dedicated to the comfort food of all comfort foots: macaroni and cheese. From the classic to the createyour-own, taste their inspiring flavor combinations. Everything, including our mac n’ cheese is made-fresh-to-order in only three minutes. Sy Thai Café 459 E. Big Beaver Rd., Troy; 248-817-2694; sythairestaurant. com: With additional locations in Birmingham, Detroit and St. Clair Shores, Sy Thai’s authentic Thai food is close to just about everyone in the Metro area and worth the drive for those that aren’t. Thai staples served with love in contemporary spaces. Three Blind Mice Irish Pub 101 N. Main St., Mt. Clemens; 586-961-6371; threeblindmiceirishpub.com: Traditional Irish fare as well as some American favorites like burgers fill the menu of this classic pub that also offers more than 200 beers. Toast 23144 Woodward Ave., Ferndale; 248-398-0444; eatattoast.com: Toast opened in 2001 with great fanfare.

“Toasters” love the creative omelets such as the Petosky with brie cheese, caramelized onions, dried cherries and bacon and the Garnda Marnier French Toast, made with cinnamon challah, orange liquere, orange segments, toasted almonds and brown sugar. Open for breakfast and lunch, its Birmingham location (203 Pierce St., Birmingham; 248-258-6278) is open for dinner. Toast Birmingham 203 Pierce St., Birmingham; 248-258-6278; toastbirmingham.com: American brunch spot with something for everyone. Toast’s scrumptious and sumptuous offerings include: homemade hash browns, banana coffee, apple streusel French toast, eggs benedict and more. See the above listing for their second location in Ferndale. Toasted Oak Grill & Market at the Baronette Renaissance, 27790 Novi Rd., Novi; 248-277-6000; toastedoak. com: A hotel restaurant that’s a cut above, such charcuterie as terrines, patés and rillettes are excellent, served among bare tables, a mirrored ceiling, vintage signs and posters. Tony V’s Tavern 5756 Cass Ave., Detroit; 313-833-5595: New tavern in Midtown with a great craft beer selection, specialty pizzas, salads and sandwiches. Karaoke Friday’s with the local Wayne State University crowd are also quite memorable. Top of the Pontch 2 Washington Blvd.; 313-782-4313; topofthepontch-hub. com: The cover of this magazine showcases just what you can expect at Top of the Pontch, a scenic destination serving the best of upscale new American fare with some of the best views in Detroit. Now open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Trattoria Da Luigi 415 S. Washington Ave., Royal Oak; 248-542-4444; trattoriapizzeriadaluigi.com: Sicilian wood-burning oven pizza, wine, garlic bread and more are some of the many offerings at this cafe and wine bar in downtown Royal Oak. Open 4-10:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Union Woodshop 18 S. Main St., Clarkson; 248-625-5660; unionwoodshop.com: Slow-smoked authentic BBQ pumped out of the smoker in the backlot. Union Woodshop also offers tantalizing wood-fired pizza and an array of craft brews in a hip setting. Vicente’s Cuban Cuisine 1250 Liberty St.; 313-962-8800; Vicente.us: A family run affair known for its lively salsa dancing nights and authentic Cuban cuisine, Vicente’s brings the heart of Havana straight to Detroit. Villa Penna 43985 Hayes Rd., Sterling Heights; 586-566-9900; villapenna.

com: Radiating retro charm, this circa 1968 casual Italian family restaurant and banquet hall offers pasta, bocce ball, stracciatella soup, steak empanada and an excellent 12-ounce filet mignon. Vinsetta Garage 27799 Woodward Ave., Berkley; 248-548-7711; vinsettagarage. com: This Berkley hot spot has become a perennial favorite on the Detroit dining scene since opening in an old garage. The menu is inventive -- tikka fries and modern bar starters; eclectic and delicious pasta bowls, to-die-for sammies and burgers -- and the space is as vibrant and fun as you could want. The Whitney 4421 Woodward Ave., Detroit; 313-832-5700; thewhitney. com: With its 52 rooms, 10 bathrooms and 20 fireplaces, the three-story pinkgranite edifice built for a lumber baron in 1894 has been one of Detroit’s most celebrated restaurants since 1986. Wild Red Wings & Sandwiches 30124 Harper Ave., St. Clair Shores; 586-5418401; wildredwings.com: When you’re craving chicken wings, crispy or gilled, there is no substitute. Try the signature hot sauce, waffle fries and house-made fried mac and cheese bites as well. Specializing in gluten-free. Wright & Co. 1500 Woodward Ave, 2nd floor, Detroit; 313-962-7711; wrightdetroit.com; $$: Beautiful new American gastropub and wine bar in downtown Detroit with cool tin ceilings and ambiance. Small plates, cocktails, Michigan beer, sea scallops, pork belly sliders, tuna tartare, etc. The Wurst Bar 705 W. Cross St., Ypsilanti; 734-485-6720; wurstbarypsi. com: The Wurst Bar is a swanky hip Gastropub in Ypsi that literally serves up a tantalizing “sausagefest.” But these aren’t your uncle’s brats; expect vegetarian hot seitan, spicy rattlesnake chorizo, alligator and crawfish budin, cheddar summer sausage, and bison and lamb merguez, as well as a host of craft beers and cocktails to wash them down with. The owners are devoted to locally sourced foods. Drive the distance for this one. Ye Olde Tap Room 14915 Charlevoix St. Detroit; yeoldetaproom.com: Around the world in 250+ beers … this is Detroit’s “Libation Ground Zero.” Here is where good friends meet great beer. If selection is what you’re looking for, head to this little beer room on Charlevoix. It’s small, dark and offers more than 200 beers, including Belgian ales and other foamy delicacies. Zef’s Coney Island 4160 Woodward Ave., Detroit; From morning coffee, breakfast to lunch, Zef’s is the place. Corporate and private catering available. Patio opening in spring 2015.




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