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BITE editorial Editor Jessica Bryce Young orlando weekly | bite 2019 | 9
Writers Faiyaz Kara, Holly V. Kapherr, Jenny De Witt, Jessica Bryce Young Photographer Rob Bartlett Designer Melissa McHenry
Florida Group Publisher Graham Jarrett Editor in Chief Jessica Bryce Young Editorial Staff Writer Xander Peters Calendar and Film Editor Thaddeus McCollum Music Editor Matthew Moyer Contributors Peg Aloi, Rob Bartlett, Jen Cray, Jason Ferguson, Maisie Haney, Liv Jonse, Holly V. Kapherr, Faiyaz Kara, Seth Kubersky, Bao Le-Huu, Anthony Mauss, Cameron Meier, Richard Reep, Steve Schneider, Madeleine Scott Editorial Interns Christian Casale, Clarissa Moon, Annabelle Sikes Advertising Director of Sales Jeff Kruse Senior Multimedia Account Execs Dan Winkler, Matt Whiting Multimedia Account Exec Scotty Spar Digital Media Specialist Colin Schotter Classified and Legal Rep Jerrica Schwartz Sales Department Administrator Rachel Gold Marketing and Events Senior Marketing and Events Manager Jessica Pawli Events & Promotions Coordinator Kelsey Stidham Marketing and Sales Coordinator Nathaniel Frecks Creative Services Art Director Melissa McHenry Production Manager Daniel Rodriguez Graphic Designer Justin “SKIP” Skipper Business Director of Operations Hollie Mahadeo Business Specialist Allysha Willison Circulation Circulation Manager Collin Modeste Euclid Media Group Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner VP of Digital Services Stacy Volhein Director of Digital Strategy Colin Wolf Regional Digital Director Fran DiCarlo Senior Marketing and Events Director Cassandra Yardeni Digital Operations Coordinator Jaime Monzon Controller Kristy Dotson euclidmediagroup.com National Advertising: Voice Media Group 1-888-278-9866, vmgadvertising.com Orlando Weekly Inc. 16 W. Pine St. Orlando, Florida 32801 orlandoweekly.com Phone 407-377-0400 Fax 407-377-0420 Orlando Weekly is published every week by Euclid Media Group
Front Cover: PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
11 ORLANDO WEEKLY BITE AWARD
We’re proud to present our annual award for contributions to the culinary community to Second Harvest chef Jill Holland.
FEATURES 15 ONE BUN LEADS TO ANOTHER
All the local bakeries where we get our fix of Asian pastries, cakes and rolls 17 GIMME ALL YOUR DOUGH
Five ways to know if your woodfired pie is the real deal 19 WHERE’S THE BEEF?
There are plenty of places in Orlando to try the newest faux-beef brands 23 NATTY WINES
We pop some bottles with natural wine expert Samantha Lawless
CHEFS + RESTAURANTS 25 CHEF JENN ROSS OF DAJEN EATS 26 Vegan and vegetarian restaurants 29 CHEF AIMEE RIVERA OF VICTORIA & ALBERT’S 31 Modern and creative restaurants 35 CHEF BRAM FOWLER OF THE OLD JAILHOUSE 36 Traditional American restaurants 41 CHEF RODOLFO GUZMAN OF JALEO 42 European restaurants 45 CHEF MARIA PALO OF STASIO’S ITALIAN DELI 46 Casual restaurants 49 CHEF BENNO DEIFEL OF BACKHAUS
50 Sweets, pastries and ice cream 53 VISHAL CHUNILAL OF OVIEDO BREWING CO. 56 Pubs, wine bars and taprooms 59 CHEF STEVEN RICHARD OF PADDLEFISH 61 Seafood restaurants 65 CHEF RIFAT ALTUNTAS OF THE H CUISINE 66 Steakhouses 71 CHEF RYAN MANNING OF MX TACOS 73 Mexican and Latin restaurants 77 CHEF LEWIS LIN OF SUSURU 78 Asian restaurants 81 JUSTIN XIONG OF LA KUMA COFFEE 82 Coffee bars and teahouses 85 CHEFS YOJAN GONZALEZ & LISA PLASENCIA OF A LO CUBANO KITCHEN 86 Food trucks 89 CHEFS VA PROPST & TRINA GREGORY-PROPST OF SETTE 91 Italian restaurants 95 CHEFS JASMEET KAUR & POOJA PATEL OF FOREVER NAAN 97 Indian restaurants 99 CHEF HAKAN OGUN OF CAFE 34 ISTANBUL 101 Mediterranean and Middle Eastern restaurants 103 FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS
Save the date! A calendar for foodies 104 NOTES
Keep track of all the restaurants in this magazine that you try
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Our price range designation generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect the cost for one item.
2019
Jill Holland
In recognition of her outstanding contributions to the local culinary community, Orlando Weekly is pleased to announce the recipient of our annual BITE Award: Chef Jill Holland. As an instructor at Second Harvest Food Bank of Central Florida’s Culinary Training Program, chef Jill Holland has been integral in providing disadvantaged adults with the practical knowledge and life skills to thrive in today’s bustling restaurant environments. Nearly 300 students have completed the 16-week course, which lays claim to 100 percent job placement of its graduates. The program mimics the first year of culinary school, but also teaches résumé building, interviewing skills, budget planning, personal finance and how to work with different personalities. “The students are so timid in that first week,” Holland says, “but on graduation day, they’re so confident that you can see them strutting to get their diploma.” Six months after Second Harvest opened its 100,000-square-foot facility in 2013, Holland was brought on to head up the full-service catering operation called Catering for Good, a pivotal revenue-generating piece of the food bank. “We’ve done everything from corporate retirement parties to wedding receptions to bar mitzvahs,” Holland says to underscore the fact that Catering for Good offers a high-end service. More importantly, it also allows graduates of the Culinary Training Program the opportunity to observe
the workings of the catering side, in addition to acquiring first-hand real-life experience. “As they work with me on Catering for Good, it gets them out of the bubble,” she says. “They see we have real clients with real expectations who want perfect food and perfect service. The students feel that crunch, and sometimes they’ll hear me saying that we need to create the dish again because it’s not right.” Invaluable schooling, no doubt, and best of all, all the revenue gained from the catering operation goes back into funding the training program. Holland has also been the primary chef for Dining in the Dark, a fundraising event for Lighthouse Central Florida at which guests are seated in a pitch-black room to eat a multi-course gourmet meal prepared by some of the city’s best chefs. Holland has brought in such notables as Kevin Fonzo and Kathleen Blake, both previous recipients of the BITE Award, as guest chefs for the event. Holland also helped launch A Spoon Full of Hope – a product line of soups, honeys and cookies – to provide additional sustainability for the Culinary Training Program. The products are available for purchase at Lucky’s Market, Gordon’s Food Service Stores and Cask & Larder, as well as online at aspoonfullofhope.org. “I’m the one who developed the tomato basil soup!” Holland says. “It’s so cool to have that out in the public, but it’s even cooler to see it support Second Harvest and our culinary training program.”
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AWARD
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One Bun Leads to Another All the local bakeries where Holly V. Kapherr gets her fix of Asian pastries, cakes and rolls in Orlando When Southeast Asian countries declared their independence, the baking and pastry traditions of their former colonizers remained – that’s why the banh mi is served on perfect French baguettes. Gorgeous pastries, expertly made breads and other luscious carbs are fully part of Asian culture now, melding the flavors native to tropical climates (like pandan and taro) with European techniques. Here’s where to sample some of the best Asian sweets in Central Florida.
PARIS BANH MI CAFÉ & BAKERY
1021 E. Colonial Drive, 407-866-2012, parisbanhmicafebakery.com
It’s impossible not to go overboard on the beautiful self-serve laminated pastries, classic opéra cakes and mille-feuilles, fresh baguettes and macarons, not to mention the layered entremets – pretty enough to serve at Versailles. Pair with an extra-sweet, high-octane Vietnamese iced coffee to counteract the sugar crash.
LE KY PATISSERIE
2411 Curry Ford Road, 407-413-5453, thehourglassdistrict.com Uyen Tran is a veteran Disney pastry chef who opened Le Ky Patisserie in the Hourglass Social House in March, sharing a space with the Tamale Co. Her technique is impeccable, but the flavors are ultimately approachable; think peanut butter and banana, raspberry and chocolate, and lemon meringue.
▲steamed cakes
SAIGON MARKET
1232 E. Colonial Drive, 407-898-6899, saigonmarket.co Head to the back of the market (unless you’re coming from the parking lot, in which case you’re already there) to sample some of the most traditional Vietnamese pastries and cakes in town. We love the pandan pinwheels, egg custard tarts and taro buns.
IFRESH
2415 E. Colonial Drive, 407-228-9899, ifreshmarket.com/en Hang a hard left when you walk through the automatic doors into this mammoth Asian grocer, and stock up on custard-filled golden buns, pillowy steamed cakes and coconut-pandan bar cookies. With deals like buy five, get one free, you can fill your Saturday breakfast table for a song.
sesame balls
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pandan buns
QI DRAGON BAKERY
7400 Southland Blvd., 407-816-3663, qidragonbakery.com When we’re in south Orlando, this Chinese bakery is our number-one stop for Hong Kong-style split buns filled with buttercream and dusted with powdered sugar, coconutfilled tarts, red-bean buns, sesame balls and honeydew-flavored cake rolls.
SUN PEARL BAKERY
5082 W. Colonial Drive, 407-299-3256, sunpearlbakery.com It’s easy to pinpoint the passion in Tzu-Yang Chiu’s breads and pastries at this West Orlando bakery. Eggy brioche-style breads are on deck here, studded with raisins, filled with cream, topped with sweet pork and caramelized pineapple.
approval to Neapolitan pizzerias serving up pies that project pure Italian pride. But here in Orlando, we’ve no such pizza police. Is that pricey oven in the back is really doing its job? Here’s how you can tell just from looking at your pie. — HVK
CHEESE
Traditionally, a woodfired Neapolitan pizza features two kinds of cheese – crumbled caciocavallo and torn or sliced fresh mozzarella. It’s easy to spot the mozz (you’ll see the melted rounds). The caciocavallo underneath is thin and almost translucent, so you can see the vibrant sauce.
SAUCE
CORNICHON
The crust of a woodfired pizza is called a “cornichon,” and the cornichon should have some serious bubbles, indicating that the dough is properly fermented and activated in the hot oven. Without those big bubbles, you can assume the dough needed more time to rise.
Assuming you ordered a pizza with a red-sauce base, that sauce should be thinly and evenly distributed, and it should be bright red with a slight acidic tang. The VPN requires that Neapolitan pizzas are made with a raw sauce of San Marzano tomatoes. Cooked sauces are generally sweeter and darker in color.
LEOPARDING
The deck of a woodfired oven should be a minimum of 750 degrees, which means any excess flour on the dough will char. If the oven’s hot enough, the bottom of your pizza should have stripes and spots (like a leopard – get it?) of charring. If any other flour other than 00 (aka “doppio zero” or double zero) is used, the char will be bitter. No buono.
TOPPINGS
For the last five to eight seconds of cook time, the pizza maker will “dome” the pizza, raising it up on the peel inside the oven to allow the flames at the top of the oven to act as a broiler, crisping up the toppings and fully melting the cheese.
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Five ways to know if your woodfired pizza is the real deal
Napoli has the VPN (Vera Pizza Napoletana) to give the stamp of
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WHERE’S THE BEEF? Central Florida hasn’t been granted access to the new Impossible Whopper at Burger King yet, but there are plenty of other places to try the newest fauxbeef brands – Impossible and Beyond – in Orlando.
HOT KRUST PANINI KITCHEN
8015 Turkey Lake Road, 407-355-7768, hotkrust.com Try the Impossible Burgerini, sandwiched with lettuce, onions and tomato served HK Style, Buffalo Style, Reuben Style or vegan.
BURGERFI
Multiple locations, deltaco.com Try the two new Beyond Burritos – the Beyond 8-Layer Burrito or Epic Beyond Cali Burrito – filled with Beyond plantbased protein. Beyond crumbles are also offered in a taco, topped with avocado or not.
Multiple locations, burgerfi.com This California-style burger chain places a Beyond Burger patty between their signature potato buns and loads it with American cheese, ketchup, mustard, mayo, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.
DEL TACO
PEPE’S CANTINA
Multiple locations, pepescantina.com All three locations can prepare any menu item that calls for ground beef with Beyond “meat.” The tacos with purple cabbage, avocado sauce, pickled red onions and cilantro are our favorites.
WAHLBURGERS
Multiple locations, wahlburgers.com Paul’s signature Wahl sauce tops the quarter-pound Impossible Burger patty along with smoked cheddar cheese, lettuce, caramelized onions and chili-spiced tomatoes.
UNIVERSAL ORLANDO
Multiple locations, universalorlando.com Theme park guests can find the Impossible Burger at three locations throughout Universal Orlando Resort: Richter’s Burger Co. at Universal Studios, Captain American Diner at Islands of Adventure, and Kohola Reef at Volcano Bay.
TGI FRIDAYS
Multiple locations, tgifridays.com Friday’s tops their Beyond Burger with Swiss cheese, kosher dill pickles, red onion, tomato and lettuce, and serves it with a pile of crispy seasoned fries.
PHOTO BY EDWARD GUK
BURGER 21
Multiple locations, burger21.com Burger 21 was one of the first chains to put Impossible’s plant-based protein on their menu. Their version of the Impossible Burger is topped with sliced red onion, lettuce and tomato between a toasted brioche bun.
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Eat ’em to beat ’em
Concerned about the impact of eating seafood? Jenny De Witt was surprised to learn that we can do our part for conservation by frying up a gorgeous venomous aquarium fish.
You’ve probably seen these spiky striped beauties known as lionfish floating around in tanks for years, but they haven’t stayed there. They were meant for aquarium life, but someone dumped a few of these slow-moving Asian fish into our coastal waters back in the ’80s. What happened since has been a serious invasion of our undersea real estate. Nonnative to this part of the world and lacking any natural predator, lionfish present the deadliest marine incursion to date. Females release 30,000 eggs at a time, and because the fish can stand a variety of depths, water temperatures and levels of salinity, they have become an ecological threat in the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean and into the Atlantic as far north as Rhode Island. They aren’t particular about what they eat, and their giant mouths hoover up sea creatures half their size, shells and all. The only way to control their numbers is by eating them before they eat everything else. It turns out that what’s an aquarium fish in our part of the world is a popular food fish on the other side of the globe.
The lionfish offers excellent quality meat. When cooked, its firm white meat tastes like snapper, black sea bass or grouper-light. It can be fried, boiled, baked, steamed or poached. Unlike Japanese fugu, which has poisonous internal organs, there is no internal part of the lionfish that is dangerous; once the venomous external spines are removed (or cooked in high heat), the entire fish is safe to eat.
You could go one step further and become a lionfish hunter. Because their population is out of control, there’s no minimum on size or closed seasons. You can use spears or nets and catch as many as you like, all year round. Filleting a lionfish is much like any other: Hold the fish by its gill area or side fins and avoid the 18 spines located on the backs and undersides. You can use puncture-resistant gloves or remove the spines before filleting. By the way, no one has died from a venomous encounter with a lionfish – it’s just really going to sting. If it happens, immerse the wound in hot water for 30-90 minutes and if it doesn’t subside, head to the doctor.
Just feed me! Aware of the devastating impact on our waters, Grills Seafood has launched a lionfish program to get us used to seeing this fish on more and more menus – there’s even a counter on their website (grillsseafood.com) of how many they’ve served. They have come up with a stunning and delicious presentation of lionfish they call “froiled”: It’s flash-fried with the spines on, then broiled until tender and glazed with a rich sweet and savory sauce. It’s important to note that the spines are no longer venomous when flash-fried – but you probably wouldn’t eat that part, anyway. Tiffins also has lionfish on their menu, served with fermented black bean sauce, Thai green papaya slaw and peanuts. It’s listed as “Whole Sustainable Fish” and hey, if Disney’s Animal Kingdom is serving lionfish for $45, you know it’s got to be tasty. Looking for local purveyors so you can cook up the little creeps yourself? Try Whole Foods Market’s fish department or Lombardi’s Seafood, but call before you go. Many seafood distributors have a hard time keeping lionfish in stock.
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POP BOTTLES It was in Paris two years ago that I first heard people talking about natural wines. Pét-nat was on the menu at many of the trendier places we went, but I never tried a glass. But when natural wines and pét-nat started popping up here back in the states, I figured it was time to give it a try. I’m certainly no wine expert, so I asked Samantha Lawless (motto: “pét-nats & pet cats”) to tell me what I needed to know. When she’s not petting cats, popping pét-nats or running the front of house at Market on South, Lawless is working on opening a natural wine-centric vegan restaurant, Curate: Art + Wine, with her partner, Shaun Noonan. –JBY
NATTY WINE …
Natural wines, also called raw wines, have no added ingredients: no chemicals in the vineyard or cellar, no filtering, no added sulfites. The natty wine movement is similar to what happened with craft beer – the flavors are fun and funky, not pretentious, but the winemakers are very serious and creative about their product.
PETNAT …
Pétillant-Naturel is ‘naturally sparkling’ wine. During fermentation, carbon dioxide is released. In a pét-nat, the wine is bottled while it’s fermenting – the CO2 is trapped inside the bottle, making the wine sparkling. Essentially, it skips a step (primary fermentation) used in Champagne. It’s basically the OG sparkling wine. These fizzy bottles are an awesome intro to natural wine (some people say it reminds them of kombucha).
CURATE: ART + WINE …
We are not yet open, but we’re currently operating a pop-up wine shop inside Eola General. I’m fairly confident it’s the largest selection of natural wines in town, and all of them are 100% vegan and sustainable as well! One of Curate’s go-tos available at Eola General is Joe Swick’s ‘The Beav’ using cinsaut, gewürztraminer, and riesling grapes. Besides our little operation, the best local spots to find pét-nat would be Pizza Bruno, the Strand, the Parkview or the Swirlery.
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Jenn Ross DaJen Eats 323 E. Kennedy Blvd., Eatonville
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
A self-described “happy, irie vegan,” Jenn Ross left Jamaica when she was 16, taught herself how to cook, then adopted a plantbased diet as a way to live a more compassionate life. DaJen Eats started as a pop-up, then moved into a Citgo gas station off North Orange Blossom Trail before finding a permanent home in historic Eatonville. How has opening a vegan restaurant in Eatonville changed the community’s perception of plant-based eating? The majority of our clientele comes into Eatonville. We are beyond grateful for that, but we still struggle with Eatonville residents simply not knowing we are there. (That’s partly because we still haven’t put up our building sign, though we’re working on it.) We went in knowing Eatonville is a food desert of sorts, and knowing some of the resulting health issues residents face. We’ve conducted cooking classes with Healthy Eatonville Place and collaborated
with Eatonville Community Heritage Foundation to bring free cooking classes. The interest is there, and residents are implementing what they’ve learned. As an immigrant chef, have you felt the need to compromise “authenticity” in order to satisfy a broader palate? In the beginning, the hard-core Jamaican flavors weren’t doing well. Our best selling breakfast was our chick’n biscuit, but our ackee and “saltfish” – Jamaica’s national dish – wouldn’t sell. Our best-selling lunch sandwich was our Buffalo chick’n. Neither biscuits nor Buffalo sauce is Jamaican. Then I realized … the average person walking through the door had no clue what ackee and “saltfish” was, so I started a social media campaign. Food is all about connection, so I shared a story of how I grew up eating ackee, how it feels like home, and how I just can’t wait to share a childhood favorite. It made a world of difference. People got that emotional connection with my food, got excited about trying it, and then loved eating it. Creating a connection with authentic Jamaican items and selling the “story” allows us to honor the traditional flavors with a
broader audience. Dahling, now we sell vegan ox tail (“hoax tail”) without much eye-batting! How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? We reuse items. For example, we garnish all of our bowls with the green part of the green onion, but we save the white to flavor our “rice and peas” and stews. Tomato ends that we don’t use in sandwiches get diced and added to our stews. Leftover “hoax tail” from Sunday gets ground and put in our “hoax tail” lasagna. At the end of each shift, we create freezer meals with the prepared food that didn’t sell. These meals go in our grab-and-go refrigerator and are good for five days; someone coming in for breakfast may grab a rice bowl from the grab-and-go refrigerator for lunch. Also, we changed our takeout bowl containers from Styrofoam to a molded fiber clamshell. Our cups are biodegradable and we use straws made from corn. These are far more expensive options, but they are good investments and a vote for the world we want to live in. (dajeneats.com) ▲
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CHAMBERLIN’S NATURAL FOODS The Winter Park Village location may have made way for an REI, but Chamberlin’s lives on at multiple locations in Orlando, Altamonte, Oviedo and Kissimmee. Healthconscious shoppers can find everything from organic groceries to pet food to beauty supplies to nutritional supplements festooning the aisles. Multiple locations, chamberlins.com
DAJEN EATS VEGAN CAFÉ & CREAMERY Jamaican vegan fare makes this Eatonville café a must-visit. Dishes ranging from rice & peas with sweet and spicy cauliflower bites and crispy fried chick’n seitan to “loona toona” sandwiches are offered, and eight different varieties of vegan ice cream fashioned from coconut milk are also sold. 323 E. Kennedy Blvd., Eatonville, 407-7755791, $
DANDELION COMMUNITEA CAFÉ Socially conscious teahouse is a gathering ground for nonconformists, neo-cons and everyone in between. A predominantly vegan menu of wraps, salads and an outstandingly hearty chili will satisfy even the most ravenous
of carnivores. Start with garlicky hummus with hemp seeds and finish with the fluffernutter sandwich – a sweet proposition. 618 N. Thornton Ave., 407-362-1864, $
ETHOS VEGAN KITCHEN Satisfying meatless fare is the norm at this all-vegan restaurant. Mac and cheese is gratifyingly gooey, and segues nicely into sheep’s pie with its generous heaping of fluffy mashed potatoes. The Winter Park space offers a sophisticated bar and a wideranging menu. Sunday brunch is a welcoming and tasty gathering for all palates. 601 S. New York Ave., Winter Park, 407-2283898, $
IFRESH MARKET iFresh took over the former Mia Supermarket, which itself replaced the Winn-Dixie at the corner of Colonial and Bumby. The rising Chinese supermarket chain offers up the specialty ingredients and flavors that you’d usually find at your nearby Asian market, but in a Westerner-friendly atmosphere. Don’t worry, though, there’s still plenty of culinary adventure to be had in the aisles. 2415 E. Colonial Drive, 407-2289899, ifreshmarket.com
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VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN
DaJen Eats’ jerk chick’n bowl, with thyme-infused rice and peas, jerk seitan chick’n, rainbow broccoli slaw and grilled pineapple. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
LOVING HUT AThe environmentally friendly Loving Hut offers a win-win proposition: Along with more classically healthy options like “noble rice” and “saintly stir-fry,” the menu is stocked with snacks like cheesecake, “golden nuggets” and “happy dogs,” but it’s all vegan. Don’t miss the lemongrass rice vermicelli or the taro “milk”shake. Closed Tuesday. 2101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-5673; $
to the couple’s casual (and uber-popular) Sanctum Cafe. The plant-based cuisine has a tonier touch than the Colonialtown eatery, but dishes like spicy makhani curry, beet tartare and chickpea fries prove equally gratifying. Don’t pass on the burgers – the yellow curry and kimchi version is east-meets-far-east remarkable. 155 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407543-8425, $$
MARKET ON SOUTH
THE SANCTUM CAFE
At this gathering ground for herbivores and omnivores alike, lines can run out the door for Valhalla Bakery’s delicious pastries and Dixie Dharma’s victuals – bowls, pulled jackfruit BBQ and fried green tomato sandwiches, for example – day and night. (The Tiki taco is a must-try.) Humble Bumble kombuchas are also offered, as are Quantum Leap wines and rotating draft beers. 2603 E. South St., 407-613-5968, $$
Plant-based eatery deftly disproves the antiquated notion that meatless and wheatless equates to tasteless with boldly flavored green, grain and pasta bowls. A kale Caesar is anything but one-dimensional, and the harissa-spiced “Mo’Rockin” bowl with cauliflower, beets, candied walnuts and sultanas is faultless. Smoothies and pastries are available for sating the sweet tooth; power shots soothe the ill, and beer and wine the stressed. Note: Dairy and gluten options are available. 715 N. Ferncreek Ave., 407757-0346, $$
PROPER & WILD Chelsie and Jamie Savage’s high-end veg restaurant makes the perfect complement
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Aimee Rivera Victoria & Albert’s Grand Floridian Resort, 4401 Floridian Way
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Puerto Rican-born chef and Johnson & Wales grad Aimee Rivera worked under the venerable Scott Hunnel at Victoria & Albert’s as a sous-chef before assuming the title of chef de cuisine. She’s now one of Orlando’s highestprofile female chefs, overseeing the culinary operations of one of the finest restaurants in the city. What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? Fortunately, at Victoria & Albert’s we offer a dégustation menu and source specifically for our dishes. We source sustainable seafood – currently at Victoria & Albert’s, our sustainable seafood items are the Patagonian toothfish from off of the coast of Australia and the abalone from Monterey, California. [Also] we have the benefit of being part of a multi-culinary operation, so in the rare case we cannot use something, we are able to share that product with any of our sister Disney locations. For the past 26 years, food items that are prepared but unserved are collected from Walt Disney World Resort kitchens by Disney Harvest and distributed to [the] local community through the Second Harvest Food Bank of Central Florida. From food scraps to cooking oil, we aim to get the most out of our waste and actually derive energy from it. Food scraps at
Walt Disney World get diverted from a landfill to Harvest Power, a facility that converts organic waste into renewable energy. As a chef, are there challenges when you run the kitchen but don’t own the restaurant? At Disney, culinary leaders and front-of-the-house managers are empowered to run the locations like they were our own. The Disney brand is already associated with excellence in food and service. Guests that visit us expect their experience to be unparalleled. What effect has your immigrant experience, or migrant experience seeing you’re from Puerto Rico, had on the restaurant’s evolution? The evolution of the restaurant and its menu is based solely on my drive as a culinary professional. What was your very first food addiction? My mother has always been an incredible cook and makes the best mofongo, a traditional Puerto Rican dish made out of smashed fried green plantains with the addition of salt pork and lots of garlic and served as an accompaniment to any meat or seafood. That was a staple in my home and by far the most addictive. (victoria-alberts.com) ▲
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MODERN RESTAURANTS
At Victoria & Albert’s, a poussin ballotine with ramp gnocchi and house-made ricotta. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
1921 MOUNT DORA Reflecting the culinary tradition of Florida old and new, 1921 dazzles with art, decor and menu focused on the flora and fauna of the Sunshine State. Dumplings filled with a mousse of spiny lobster and rock shrimp in a country ham dashi, or pan-roasted duck breast with mole poblano, or whole Cape Canaveral white shrimp with Anson Mills grits, spiced ’nduja vinaigrette and ramp butter spiked with pickled gooseberries – it’s all staggeringly good. 142 E. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora, 352-385-1921, $$$$
310 LAKESIDE 310 Park South’s sister restaurant eschews the trendy, people-watching scene for a more understated, leisurely pace. Well-executed dishes like pan-seared snapper with a magnificent fennel and olive tapenade garnish and beef tenderloin flatbread are as much a draw as the large outdoor patio. Desserts are revelatory. 301 E. Pine St., 407373-0310, $$$
BIRD OF PARADISE Emily Rankin, reigning queen of East End Marker’s farm-to-table concepts, has changed Florida & Co. over to Bird of
Paradise. It retains the focus on healthy, locally sourced offerings, but with a new emphasis on bright, tropical flavors and colorful drinks. 3201 Corrine Drive, 407790-7758, $$
BITES & BUBBLES The latest effort from restaurateur Eddie Nickell offers a melange of French-inspired fare, some quite good, like fried and raw oysters, simple raclette cheese potatoes, and bananas Foster. There’s a nice wine list (with some French bubblies) and a handful of caviars offered. 912 N. Mills Ave., 407270-5085, $$$
THE BOHEME Resplendent restaurant in the Grand Bohemian Hotel puts the “art” back in culinary arts, both in restaurant design and chef Laurent Hollaender’s creations. Escargots de Bourgogne play up Hollaender’s French heritage, but crispy fried smelt is the superlative starter. Mains change seasonally, but we were deeply impressed by a duck breast served with starfruit, spring forest mushrooms, Swiss chard and roasted marble potatoes on our last visit. 325 S. Orange Ave., 407-581-4700, $$$$
CASTLE HOTEL ANTLER’S LOUNGE Inside the I-Drive Castle Hotel (the one with the castle-like towers), you’ll find Antler’s Lounge. Known primarily for their craft cocktail menu and plush furniture, the food menu offers up plenty of Italian-inspired favorites like meatballs and baked ziti. 8629 International Drive, 407-345-1511, $$$
CANVAS RESTAURANT & MARKET Dishes like burrata with caramelized stone fruit, Floribbean grilled shrimp salad, and succulent apple-bourbon braised short ribs steal the scene. A burger fashioned from short rib and brisket is extraordinarily moist. A respectable wine list warrants careful perusal, and Key lime pie with toasted meringue is a must. 13615 Sachs Ave., 407313-7800, $$$$
CHROMA MODERN BAR + KITCHEN The modern kitchen anchoring Lake Nona Town Center’s ultra-modern landscape serves up some time-honored dishes courtesy chef Jason Bergeron. Succulent short-rib sliders, lamb ribs, littleneck clams and luxuriant bone marrow make sharing joyfully gratifying. Open daily. 6967 Lake Nona Blvd., 407-955-4340; $$
CRESS RESTAURANT Beard award-nominated mathematicianturned-chef Hari Pulapaka has the formula for success: fusing traditional and multicultural approaches with organic ingredients. After being a special-event-only space for a couple of years, the restaurant returns to regular service in August 2019. 103 W. Indiana Ave., DeLand, 386-7343740, $$$
LUMA ON PARK Chef Brandon McGlamery attracts all the glamorous foodies to his Park Avenue destination. There’s a great wine selection, a creative cocktail menu, and the smaller plates encourage sharing. Menus change daily and seasonally, but any fish entrée is always a fabulous and Florida-centric bet here. The atmosphere is lively, especially at the chef’s table. 290 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-4111, $$$
THE OSPREY TAVERN This handsome Baldwin Park boîte has taken flight with an attractive menu to match its equally attractive decor. The charcuterie plate is a highlight, as are succulent lamb ribs smoked with za’atar and honey. Florida black grouper with corn agnolotti is an absolute delight. 4899 New Broad St., 407-960-7700; $$$
PHARMACY Pharmacy places an emphasis on creativity in the kitchen, as well as behind the bar. Start with one of the many “elixirs” – stiff, handcrafted potions – before diving into such shareable options as roasted bone marrow with oxtail and chili-strawberry preserves or fried green tomato nuggets served over creamy corn curry. Mains vary by season. Dinner only. 8060 Via Dellagio Way, 407985-2972, $$$$
THE RAVENOUS PIG The frills are as sophisticated as the fare at this Winter Park gastropub. Scallops with caramelized cauliflower puree, roasted foie with cinnamon ice milk and rabbit rillettes with pea tendrils underscore creativity and talent in the kitchen, as do mains like a lamb trio of loin, bacon and sausage. Desserts are uniformly rich and rave-worthy. 565 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-6282333, $$$
THE RUSTY SPOON This gastropub brings a locavore credo to the downtown core along with an urbanfarmhouse vibe. The rustic menu focuses on locally farmed and raised ingredients, but not obsessively so. Best: tapenade-stuffed eggs, coffee-rubbed culotte steak and grown-up s’mores. There’s a decent selection of craft beers, cocktails and wines as well. 55 W. Church St., 407-401-8811, $$
SOCO Greg Richie’s imaginative versions of Southern classics have made Soco one of Orlando’s premier dining destinations, thanks to such renditions as cassoulet of duck confit with boiled peanuts, molassesglazed hanger steak with smoked brisket hash browns, and hot-smoked cobia with buttermilk potato cakes. 629 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-1800, $$$$
MARKET TO TABLE RESTAURANT
THE STRAND
There’s no questioning the skill and technique used to fashion the dishes served at this Winter Garden resto. Chef Ryan Freelove has the chops to pull off proficiently braised lamb shank over truffle gnocchi, and crackling golden tilefish with a succotash of corn salsa and spelt. The menu is seasonal, with a focus on fresh, local and sustainable ingredients (some grown on the roof). 146 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, 407-395-9871, $$$$
Cozy Mills 50 gem packs them in, thanks to a food-first ethic and dedication to local and seasonal sourcing. Enjoy a craft brew with the roasted red snapper hash, a breakfast item available as a dinner appetizer. More substantial items of note include a fried Cornish hen with mustard mashed potatoes and wilted greens. The olive oil cake with mascarpone cream is already a fan favorite. 807 N. Mills Ave., 407-920-7744, $$
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MODERN RESTAURANTS
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Bram Fowler The Old Jailhouse 113 S. Palmetto Ave., Sanford
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
South African-born chef Bram Fowler is no stranger to our dining scene, having wowed guests at his Longwood restaurant Journeys well before helming the kitchen at Sanford’s Old Jailhouse, a stunning restaurant specializing in “Sun Belt Cuisine.” As a chef, there are obvious challenges when you run the kitchen but don’t own the restaurant. How do you navigate your relationship with an owner? My owners give me the freedom to run the kitchen and menu as I see fit. I’ve had other owners at different establishments that liked to micro-manage. There was a restaurant whose owner wanted to tell me what menu items should appear on the menu because, he said, “people love that dish.” Well, that restaurant is no longer in business. I run the Old Jailhouse as if it were my own restaurant and, so far, it’s working out and my owners are very supportive. What effect has your immigrant experience had on the restaurant’s evolution? My mom is such a great cook, so my love of cooking came from her. I was fascinated that she could create anything from any restaurant and make it better, so I guess I started playing with dishes and
plating food at an early age. I believe my background coming from South Africa has helped me in my cooking career. I was brought up with so many different cultures who all “stayed in their own lane,” as it were, so when you ate at a Greek or Indian or even French restaurant, it was as authentic as it was in the home country. That’s what inspired me to cook world cuisine. I enjoyed blending the cuisines of different cultures that were so separated where I came from. How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? Using the right vendors who can get sustainable fish and local produce and meat is the key. We try using every part of the animals and or vegetables we get. I’m working with a local pig farmer and will be sending them some of our plate waste. The beef we use comes from Florida, the shrimp comes from the Gulf and so on. I like to use the Seafood Watch app and only get green or yellow options. I get my tomatoes from Waterkist Farm in Sanford. I believe that as a community we can work together on reuse and recycling. What was your first food addiction? Curry. I love it and ate it on a weekly basis growing up. (theoldjailhousesanford.com)▲
AMERICAN TRADITIONAL 36 | bite 2019 | orlando weekly French Quarter Bouillabaisse at the Old Jailhouse: Mussels, clams, shrimp, fish and scallops in tomato saffron broth with crispy fennel and ciabatta toast. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
CHEF ART SMITH’S HOMECOMIN’ Celebrity chef Art Smith returns to Disney with his aptly named restaurant showcasing all that’s good about Southern fare. His near-legendary fried chicken (get it with house-made doughnuts), shrimp and grits, fried catfish, chicken and dumpling soup, and pimiento cheese keep the masses at Disney Springs fat and happy. A few bites of that hummingbird cake will definitely slow the pace of your park perambulations. There’s a nice selection of moonshine cocktails, too. Disney Springs, 1602 E.
Buena Vista Drive, 407-560-0100, $$$
GARP & FUSS Winter Park restaurant in Park Avenue’s Hidden Garden pleases with its pub grub (great wings, burgers, boiled peanuts!) as well as more sophisticated gastropub fare like delicate crab cake bites or butternut squash ravioli with brown butter and fried sage. Handhelds range from fried chicken to Chicago-style Italian beef sammies. The Key lime pie in a jar is a worthy meal-capper. 348 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-9605560, $$$
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In a city with so much to see and do, a big attraction for locals as well as tourists is Hard Rock Café Orlando – the biggest HRC in the world. With statuesque pillars, it stands majestically as a Roman Coliseum of rock, and boasts more pieces of rock & roll memorabilia than any other location. The site includes not only a vast, multilevel café, but also Hard Rock Live Orlando, a 3,000-person concert venue – and it’s a winning combination. 6050 Universal Blvd., 407-351-7625, $$
HASH HOUSE A GO GO The hash slung at Hash House a Go Go will shock those not accustomed to colossal plates and cast-iron skillets full of country-style food. From the stack of fried green tomatoes to the stuffed meatloaf to the sage fried chicken Benedict, everything looks ample enough to satisfy a family of four. 5350 International Drive, 407-3704646, $$$
LUKE’S KITCHEN AND BAR There’s nothing so novel at James Beard Award nominee Brandon McGlamery’s Maitland resto, but there’s plenty that’s so, so good – from the design to the cocktail program to such dishes as diver scallop ceviche, flavorful bone-in ribeye, and stellar swordfish. Comfortingly, proteins are mostly
plonked atop starches and veggies here. More goodness: peppery (though expensive) crab cake and the au poivre burger, which is our new favorite. 640 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-674-2400, $$$$
MAXINE’S ON SHINE Neighborhood jewel offers an eclectic Italian-esque menu in a casual, intimate atmosphere. Pasta and fish dishes are deftly executed; the nutrient-rich kale in the Cobb salad offsets the decadent bacon, egg and blue cheese. Wine list is ample and studied, and a cocktail selection was just added. 337 N. Shine Ave., 407-674-6841, $$
THE OLD JAILHOUSE An ambitious restoration and renovation easily makes this restaurant the most stunning in all of Sanford. Chef Bram Fowler’s “Sun Belt Cuisine” highlights everything from Southern California to Louisiana to Lowcountry staples, like the bouillabaisse pictured on page 36. Cocktails are taken just as seriously here as the wine list. Don’t leave without a bite of the buttery bananas foster bread pudding. 113 S. Palmetto Ave., Sanford, 407-548-6964, $$$
Of note: luscious brisket and pork shoulder; smoked chicken wings; crispy Brussels sprouts; and the sausage hoagie. Cask & Larder brews, as well as a bourbon bar stocked with Pappy Van Winkle, will properly wet the whistle. Disney Springs, 1536 Buena Vista Drive, 407-938-7444, $$
the same could be said of his maque-choux and creamed corn. Biscuit sandwiches, like the BLT and chicken salad, are wholly satisfying. A scoop of house-made ice cream is the way to end.. 125 W. First St., Sanford, 407-942-3977, $$
RUSTEAK RESTAURANT & WINE BAR
The fare coming out of the kitchen of this lakeside bar/restaurant isn’t just a notch above its Julie’s Waterfront days, but downright impressive. Korean pork belly with house kimchi, sesame-crusted ahi tuna with seaweed salad, and tuna poké bring a faint Asian bent to the menu, yes, but fish camp classics like blackened catfish and stellar fish (haddock) and chips are the real deal. The cheeseburger is a knockout. 4201 S. Orange Ave., 407-866-0468, $$
Don’t let the scary-long menu fool you – most of the dishes created by the proficient kitchen of this gastropub are top-notch. If the lamb porterhouse is ever offered as a special, pounce on it. They also know how to cook fish to perfection. A highlight: the hefty half-pound RusTeak burger. 1568 Maguire Road, Ocoee, 407-614-3765; also 2625 Edgewater Drive, 407-540-1100; $$
THE WATERFRONT
THE TAP ROOM AT DUBSDREAD
WINTER PARK VILLAGE
Historic dining destination on the grounds of Orlando’s oldest public golf course offers simple, impeccably prepared dishes. Pot roast makes an ideal meat-and-potatoes nosh, fish and chips are simple comfort food, and homemade Key lime pie is a must. 549 W. Par St., 407-650-0100, $$$
Both a daily and a destination shopping and dining Mecca for Orlando and Winter Park, the Village boasts a wide range of entertainment options. Once you’re done shopping at the new REI or seeing a movie at the Regal Cinema, take your pick of nourishment from the high end (Ruth’s Chris Steak House) to the casual (Crispers, Menchie’s) to all the delicious in-between (Another Broken Egg, Brio, Cheesecake Factory, the Hangry Bison, P.F. Chang’s, Pizzeria Valdiano and Sakari Sushi). 510 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-5712700, $$
THE POLITE PIG
THE TENNESSEE TRUFFLE
Local notables James and Julie Petrakis of the RavPig are joined by James’ brother Brian to bring the flavor of proper Southern ’cue to the international masses at Disney Springs.
Southern fare and French technique fuse together at chef/owner Nat Russell’s downhome Sanford resto. His biscuits and gravy might be the best in Central Florida, though
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HARD ROCK CAFE
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Rodolfo Guzman Jaleo
Disney Springs, 1482 E. Buena Vista Drive
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
It’s true: Bolivian chef Rodolfo Guzman once laid tiles at the original Jaleo in Washington, D.C., then washed dishes, before rising through the ranks to become head chef at Jaleo Disney Springs. That José Andrés believes Guzman cooks better Spanish food than he does himself speaks volumes. What effect has your immigrant experience had on the restaurant’s evolution? When I came to the United States from Bolivia, I knew nothing about cooking and did not appreciate cooking as an art form. I was working in construction laying tiles for the first Jaleo in Washington, D.C., and José took me under his wing once the restaurant opened. He gave me a job as a dishwasher, which quickly transitioned into a line cook as I expressed my eagerness to learn. José introduced me to a whole new world of creativity. When I lived in Bolivia, I never cooked because my mother was the cook in the family and would make wonderful meals for me. While I still believe my mother’s cooking is amazing, I didn’t know how much more could be done with combining ingredients to make what we do at Jaleo. José taught me about being authentic to Spanish cuisine and being respectful of ingredients. I wanted to become the best and not let what I’ve always known limit my culinary imagination. Fortunately, José is an immigrant too and made sure I never stood in my own way. I worked very hard, continued to learn and expand my technique. José even took me to the famous
elBulli restaurant in Spain where I could learn from the best in the world. It was a very challenging environment, but one of the most rewarding experiences of my career, filled with knowledge and experimentation. I walked into elBulli a cook and walked out a chef. It has been over 25 years since my first day at Jaleo and I am very proud of my journey as a chef and as an immigrant. Cultural appropriation has become an increasingly sensitive topic in the world of food. As a Bolivian running a Spanish restaurant, what are your thoughts on food identity and food ownership? When I started to cook at Jaleo, I saw José’s dedication to keeping the ingredients and flavors as authentic as possible. Sure, we could get many of our uniquely Spanish ingredients domestically and it would be less expensive, but José is proud of his heritage and wants to showcase true Spanish ingredients delivered directly from Spain. This is why we don’t serve things like avocados or bananas at the restaurants. We’re advocates for authenticity. What was your very first food addiction? As I started working as a cook, José explained food with such energy and passion, it made me fall in love with all aspects of food. He showed me how to make our goat cheese endive, a dish that includes fresh oranges, almonds, goat cheese and a sherry dressing. With one bite, you taste sweet and salty flavors and smooth and crunchy textures. It was so simple and perfect – I was addicted. (jaleo.com) ▲
EUROPEAN RESTAURANTS 42 | bite 2019 | orlando weekly From Jaleo, chef Rodolfo Guzman’s favorite dish: endivias con quest de cabra y naranjas (endives with goat cheese, orange, toasted almonds and sherry dressing) (photo by Rob Bartlett)
ARARAT EURO FOOD & BISTRO Portions are generous and prices reasonable at Ararat, specializing in dishes from Russia, Armenia and all points in between. Specialties from the Caucasus region worth sampling are many, including Russianstyle dumplings (pelmeni) and baked buns (pirozhki). For mains, consider crispy butterflied Cornish hen and lamb kebabs. 7540 Universal Blvd., 407-351-3131, $$
BULLA GASTROBAR South Florida Spanish joint serves up some mighty fine tapas and tipples. Chef Felix Plasencia gets it going with marvy croquetas, stellar octopus salad, and pintxos of charcoal-fired cumin-marinated pork. For more substantial plates, consider the seafood paella, arroz marinero cooked with plankton, and the red snapper fired up in a charcoal oven. Torrijas (Spanish-style French toast) drizzled with honey and served with turrón ice cream is our choice to end the meal. 110 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-214-6120, $$$
creamy leek crêpes, steak frites and caramel crunch chicken and waffles. 2912 Edgewater Drive, 407-930-0473, $$
DOVECOTE It’s hard to find a clunker on this downtown brasserie’s menu of approachable French cuisine, whether you’re downing starters like French onion soup (a specialty), tomatowater risotto or Vietnamese seafood stew, or entrees like steak frites, moules frites or vermouth-braised pork cheeks. Partake in their progressive cocktail program, or enjoy one of the many French wines offered by the glass. 390 N. Orange Ave., 407-930-1700, $$$$
HOLLERBACH’S WILLOW TREE CAFE Homey gasthaus in Sanford’s historic downtown district offers bier, wursts, spaetzle, strudel and some of the finest sweet red cabbage you’ll eat, but the talent extends well beyond the food: Oompah music, dancing and downing “das boot” (about a yard of beer) are crowd-stirring must-dos. 205 E. First St., Sanford, 407-321-2204, $$
CAFÉ LINGER
JALEO
Coffee, breakfast and brunch with a Continental spin in a brand-new takeover of what used to be a College Park pizza joint. Virtuous overnight oats, house-made granola and avocado toast face off against decadent
Chef/humanitarian José Andrés brings his tapas concept to Disney Springs with much fanfare and it lives up to the hype. From sharable plates of pata negra and paella to grilled meats (the secreto is a must), the
LE COQ AU VIN At this South Orlando landmark, generations of Orlandoans have discovered and enjoyed classic French cuisine. The two dishes most worth trying these days: the namesake coq au vin, and canard done two ways – as a crispy leg confit and a sliced duck breast scented with lavender and honey. 4800 S. Orange Ave., 407-851-6980, $$$$
407-412-6979; also 1185 S. Spring Centre Blvd., Altamonte Springs, 407-960-2605; $$$
TAPA TORO Tapa Toro has the looks and the dishes to match, no bull. Expertly crafted Spanish fare makes it well worth the drive to sample vibrant gazpacho, perfect pulpo a la plancha, or pan rustico with a spread of Medjool dates and goat cheese. Plush skewers of beef tenderloin please and, apart from the lack of crusty socarrat, the paella with chicken, chorizo and lamb chops was utterly brilliant. 8441 International Drive, 407-226-2929; $$$
SANTIAGO’S BODEGA
VERANDA RESTAURANT
Key West transplant serves a bevy of panMediterranean small plates. Locals in the know cannot stop gushing over the fantastical brunch spread – giant crab legs, bottomless Bloody Marys, unforgettable French toast – and tapas like beef tenderloin carpaccio, yellowfin tuna ceviche, patatas bravas, and short ribs coated in a cherry-hoisin glaze. The extensive wine list impresses, as does the $28 carafe of red sangria. 802 Virginia Drive,
The veranda-less Veranda presents Eastern European cuisine from Moldova and Romania, from such peasant staples as mamliga (polenta cakes served with salty cheese crumbles and sour cream) to Ottoman-influenced meat rolls and mince patties. For the less adventurous, Italian dishes (think pastas and pizzas) are also offered. 1700 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-730-9190, $$
From Jaleo, ossejat negra: traditional paella of toasted pasta with shrimp, squid ink, sofrito and alioli (garlic mayonnaise) (photos by Rob Bartlett)
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food – much like the 22,000-square-foot restaurant’s avant-garde and expressionist design – is impressive. Two different chef’s tasting menus are offered, and worth the splurge. Disney Springs, 1482 Buena Vista Drive, 321-348-3211, $$$$
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Maria Palo & family Stasio’s Italian Deli & Market 2320 E. Robinson St.
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Maria Palo and her husband, Louie, moved to Florida with a newborn in 1984 and soon after opened Amalfi’s Italian Restaurant on Chickasaw Trail. Fifteen years and three children later, they sold Amalfi’s, then opened Carnevale di Amalfi on East Colonial Drive, which became Louie & Maria’s Italian Restaurant. Then Palo’s kids wanted an authentic Italian deli and thus, Stasio’s was born. What effect has your personal immigrant experience had on the restaurant’s evolution? I think our deli has evolved by going oldschool Italian in so many ways. This whole concept is new to this area and I feel that this has come about by my children and myself having experienced the immigrant way of living here in the U.S. For example, Stasio’s has an area like you’d see in Italy where people gather to have un caffè and a small pastry and chat at the counter. We’re a place where people can come to buy fresh sliced Italian cured meats and aged and fresh cheeses at the deli. And because it’s a whole family working here, I find the customer relationship is being built little by little, because they feel at home when they come in. The smells that are created by making bread in-house every day
also lends to the authenticity and the overall evolution of our “Immigrant in America” business. Have you ever felt the need to compromise in order to satisfy a broader palate? I did not. I cook the way I was taught growing up … We are full-blooded Italian, so we don’t have any formal [culinary] education! My husband Louie is a self-taught cook. How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? In trying to reduce food waste, we cook just so much of the fresh food and when it’s gone that’s it. We don’t make any more until the next day. As far as sustainability, we wrap all our sandwiches in paper, we buy from a produce company that buys fruits and vegetables from farmers close to Lakeland, and we also recycle. What was your very first food addiction? OK, so my all-time favorite addiction – because my mom always made it – is fresh bread out of the oven. In Italy with olive oil and in America with butter. My first food addiction in America was hot dogs with mustard and sauerkraut. I’ve never seen or heard of that in Italy. (Find Stasio’s Italian Deli on Facebook) ▲
CASUAL RESTAURANTS 46 | bite 2019 | orlando weekly A Stasio’s Sub and a Lou’s Special on house-made bread, and an antipasto platter with imported cured meats. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
AJ’S PRESS You’ll be, ahem, hard-pressed to find a better sandwich than the ones served up at the Longwood outpost of AJ’s Press. Mexican bolillo and telera rolls are weighty enough to hold the porky mélange of smoky ham, smokier Cantimpalo chorizo and slow-roasted pork in the Cuban; a less filling ham-and-cheese option is just as solid. Our fave: a beer-braised brisket sammie with pickled jalapeños. 182 W. State Road 434, Longwood, 407-790-7020, $$
BAD AS’S SANDWICH This Milk District sandwich joint gives lunch reason to live, thanks to chef-owner John Collazo’s mighty fine sammies – like the El Anormal #3 with adobo-roasted pork and peppery sausage gooeyed up with chipotle jack cheese on soft, subtly sweet egg bread. Simpler sandwiches, like the Mafioso with thinly shaved beef and the Ninja with crispy fried pork belly, shouldn’t be overlooked. 207 N. Primrose Drive, 407-757-7191, $
found at Chipotle. 12711 Narcoossee Road, 407-627-1990; also 1971 Aloma Ave., 407907-6577; $
BOXI PARK Lake Nona shipping-container food park houses numerous food concepts, from burgers and tacos to fried chicken and lobster rolls. Beer, wine and cocktails are also offered in addition to live music, volleyball courts, playgrounds and a dog park. Open Thursday to Sunday. 6877 Tavistock Lakes Blvd., 407536-9666, $
THE COOP Best bring a growling stomach to John Rivers’ shrine to Dixie dining, where you’ll feast on American-sized portions of fried chicken, meatloaf, pot pies, pork chops and the like. You’ll also find numerous sides – candied yams, creamed corn, stewed okra, fried green tomatoes and pimiento cheese, to name just a few. Save room for pie. 610 W. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-843-2667, $$
BOLAY
EOLA GENERAL
Fast-casual joint in Lake Nona and Winter Park (with another to come in UCF) lets guests build beautiful guilt-free and gluten-free bowls of deliciousness. Choose from nine different bases (everything from black rice and orange-basil quinoa to Asian sweet potato noodles and kale), layer on cooked veggies like ginger broccoli and smoky cauliflower, add some meat, other add-ons and a sauce, and have at it. Meats, btw, don’t suffer from the over-charring so often
Neighborhood general store by Sean Kelley (Henry’s Depot), Shaun Noonan (Dixie Dharma) and Joe Roberti (Grain & Ember) has plenty of good eats to go around, namely hearty sandwiches (get the French dip), boards (cheese, beef jerky, pickled veg and fruit) and breakfast items (bagels, sliders). You’ll find a nitro cold brew being poured courtesy of Wavelength Coffee and pastries by Buttermilk Bakery. 522 E. Amelia St., 407723-8496, $
LASPADA’S ORIGINAL CHEESE STEAKS & HOAGIES There are no frills at LaSpada’s, but you don’t need any. Their signature cheesesteaks may be the stars of the show, but don’t overlook their LaSpada’s Famous, made with ham, salami, capicola, prosciutto, soppressata and provolone. 1010 Lee Road, 407-539-0067, $
ORLANDO MEATS Part butchery, part eatery, this Virginia Drive meat house offers all the interesting cuts flesh-starved gastronomes crave, as well as a menu showcasing locally procured meats. Burger purists ought to try their hefty mediumrare burger (the juice will fly), while sausage hounds will have a field day with any of the available offerings, be it the currywurst, chicken nugget or, our fave, twin venison sausages stuffed inside a New England roll. 728 Virginia Drive, 407-598-0700, $$
PIG FLOYD’S URBAN BARBAKOA
THE HAMMERED LAMB A gorgeous patio with a full bar and 16 beers on draft offers views of Lake Ivanhoe on one side, and the roar of the train tracks on the other (but don’t worry, when the locomotive goes rushing by, the bartender hands out train shots). If you feel peckish while you party, there’s a menu full of creative sandwiches and wraps. 1235 N. Orange Ave., 407-704-3200, $
HINCKLEY’S FANCY MEATS Matt Hinckley, a champion of responsible agricultural practices, brings a wealth of experience to his East End Market meat shop, where his display case of smoked meats, terrines, rillettes and pâtés often stops folks in their tracks. Some mighty fine sandwiches can be had too, notably the crackling porchetta on ciabatta. East End Market, 3201 Corrine Drive, 786-671-1023, $$
ISLAND WING COMPANY Rising regional chain Island Wing Co. has opened locations in the Hunters Creek and UCF areas. Don’t let the name fool you, though. Sure, they offer baked wings in a variety of sauces, but their menu encompasses creative mac & cheese dishes, flatbreads, salads, burgers and tacos too. 2079 Town Center Blvd., 407343-5595; also 4100 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-287-6265; $
KINGS DINING & ENTERTAINMENT Known primarily for their high-class bowling lanes, Kings also offers a food and drink menu that goes far beyond the usual bowling alley offerings, including Nashville hot chicken, vegan meatballs and personal pizzas. But make sure to save room to top it off with
Pig Floyd’s brings a sense of humor and quality barbecue to Mills 50. Everything from luscious brisket to succulent St. Louis-style ribs impresses; even moist spice-rubbed chicken is worth coming back for. Given owner Thomas Ward’s Latin heritage, the sweet plantains, fried yuca, and rice and beans make sense (and don’t disappoint).1326 N. Mills. Ave., 407-203-0866; also 9680 Narcoossee Road, 407-730-7376; $$
POM POM’S TEAHOUSE & SANDWICHERIA Want interesting sandwiches (Mama Ling Ling’s Thanksgiving is a cult classic, and the yellow curry chicken salad is just plain classic), unusual tea (raspberry-rose, tiramisu rooibos) and a cheery, art-filled atmosphere? Find it all here at this Milk District pioneer. Open 24 hours Friday and Saturday. 67 N. Bumby Ave., 407-894-0865, $
STASIO’S ITALIAN DELI This Milk District gastronomia sells scores of Old Country finds, from cheeses and pastas to oils and flour. The cold case is chock-full of fresh-made sausages and antipasti, while the hot case showcases everything from stuffed pork chops to chicken San Remo. Housemade bread and fresh meats yield superb sandwiches, though don’t overlook strombolis and definitely don’t overlook the pastries – flaky, cream-filled sfogliatelle are outstanding. 210 N. Bumby Ave., 407-277-7755, $$
ZERO DEGREES Fresh-fruit slushies, teas and coffee are this Cali-based chain’s signature offerings, but Hispanic-Asian food offerings make ideal accompaniments to iced bevs like mangonada and spicy watermelon. Don’t miss the “chilotes,” elotes topped with crushed Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and chicharrones. 5282 W. Colonial Drive, 407-487-4597; also 1700 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-270-5164; $
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an overloaded sundae or shake. 8255 International Drive, 407-363-0200, $$
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Benno Deifel Backhaus 1213 N. Orange Ave.
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
German-born Benno Deifel and his wife, Heike, opened Backhaus in 2014, offering fresh-baked German breads, pastries and cakes. Their recipes emphasize authenticity, and most of their baked goods use ingredients imported from Germany. Have you ever felt the need to compromise authenticity in order to please a broader palate? With our German upbringing, and having intimate knowledge of the flavors and tastes of baked goods from our homeland, we’re able to bring authentic German and European flavors to our customers. It puts us in a distinct position in the marketplace apart from other domestic bakeries. The majority of our customer base are European immigrants, or were brought up by European immigrants, and we really cater to their tastes and palates. We get many tourists from Germany and Europe who drive to our bakery to try our cakes and pastries and they’re very appreciative of being able to obtain such baked goods in
Orlando. We also live a very health-conscious lifestyle and we want to serve the same quality food products to our customers that we would eat ourselves. In fact, most of our bakery items use less sugar than you would normally find at other bakeries. How are you reducing food waste and making the bakery more sustainable? We are extremely vigilant when it comes to food waste and don’t waste any of our food products at all. Fresh-baked products which aren’t sold the same day are sold at a 50 percent discount the following day. Anything left over is donated to various charitable organizations supporting less privileged people. We also make every effort to only bake as many items as we can sell the same day. What was your very first food addiction? Black Forest cake rolls and Black Forest cake. I’m very particular and prefer using kirschwasser from local Black Forest producers, which we bring back whenever we travel to Germany. (the-backhaus.com) ▲
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BETTER THAN SEX DESSERTS Dessert-only restaurant sexes things up with a menu of cakes, pies and beverages, most of which will have you moaning in satisfaction. Rimmed drinks, be they wine or coffee, can leave a sticky mess, while desserts like the “Cookie Nookie Pie,” “Morning After” and “Missionary Crisp” are meant to indulge. Chocolate lovers need look no further than the “Twist & Stout” – a girthy chocolate cake with a tart chocolate center and a glaze of dark chocolate stout. Reservations are strongly recommended, as seats fill up quickly. 1905 N. Orange Ave., 407-761-8949, $$
BUTTERMILK BAKERY Whether you’ve got a full set of sweet teeth or you’re a salt-and-butter fiend to the end, skipping a trip to Buttermilk Bakery would be a big mistake. The “morning buns” crafted by the Rebroff family turn any morning into a celebratory occasion – tipping-over tall and sticky with sugar granules, with a hint of orange or cardamom. Croissants are shatteringly crisp and insanely buttery, filled with sweet almond paste, rich chocolate or savory combos like smoked cheddar and charred jalapeño. 1198 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 321-422-4015, $
order (try the peanut butter cup cake). Get there before closing time; they sell out fast. East End Market, 3201 Corrine Drive, $$
THE GLASS KNIFE Luxe patisserie offers a gorgeous line of cakes, cookies, doughnuts and specialty pastries to satisfy the sweetest of tooths. Coffee from Onyx Coffee Labs (with whom they have an exclusive partnership) makes a perfect pairing, be it drip, pour-over, nitro cold brew or espresso-based. Savory items are served throughout the day – the cheddar biscuit sandwich and chicken pot pie prove gratifying. There’s a sizable covered outdoor patio, and it’s dog-friendly. 276 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-500-2253, $$
THE GREENERY CREAMERY Boutique ice cream shop offers intriguing flavors to vegans and dairy-lovers alike. Trendy black-ash coconut appeals to the former, while the latter can get their fill from super-buttery sweet cream and bold Guinness stout. Adorn your cones or cups with interesting toppings (hibiscus crystals, anyone?) and sauces (Mission fig, bourboncaramel). 420 E. Church St., 407-2861084, $
GIDEON’S BAKEHOUSE
JEREMIAH’S ITALIAN ICE
Over-the-top soft “cookies” are roughly a half-pound of cookie dough solidly bedazzled with chips, basic (chocolate chip) and not-basic (triple-chocolate salted Andes mint) varieties. Cake slices are also offered, and whole cakes are available by special
It’s like a sorbet, only more slushy. It’s not a snow cone, although it does come in a cup, in not-too-sweet and refreshing flavors such as mango, kiwi, tangerine, watermelon, red raspberry and passionfruit. Multiple locations, jeremiahsice.com; $
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SWEETS, PASTRIES AND ICE CREAM
At Backhaus, Benno Deifel shows off a Black Forest cake. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
KELLY’S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM
TOOJAY’S DELI
The brick-and-mortar version of the popular food truck now has outposts in Audubon Park and the Hourglass District, serving inventive ice creams like Mexican chocolate, maple bourbon bacon and sweet potato casserole. Can’t make up your mind? Indulge in a flight, a muffin tin filled with four waffle-cone dishes of whatever you like. 3114 Corrine Drive, 407-790-7257; also 1817 S. Ferncreek Ave., 407-601-6422; $
Gourmet deli holds its own with regard to tradition, doing justice to chopped liver, matzo-ball soup and cheese blintzes. But the dessert menu shines to a surprising degree – choose from rugelach, macaroons (not -rons), brownies, giant cake slices and more. We have it on good authority that it’s an actual sin to leave without a black-and-white cookie. Multiple locations, toojays.com; $
P IS FOR PIE BAKE SHOP
Celine Duvoisin’s crazy-popular vegan Valhalla Bakery at Market on South serves up butter tarts, cinnamon rolls, mini fruit pies, cookies and more. The famous vegan doughnuts are made over in her UCF Valkyrie shop these days, but you can still score one at Valhalla if you’re early enough, along with a baked treat to end a meal from market-mate Dixie Dharma. Valhalla also does a booming trade in special-order cakes. 2603 E. South St., 407-613-5968, $$
You won’t find Crisco, gelatin or any processed ingredients here. What you will find is strawberry-raspberry cobbler, chocolate peanut butter sea salt cuties, light and airy banana cream Mason jar pies, and their signature flaky-crust caramel pecan hand pies – all guaranteed to tug on your Southern heartstrings. 2806 Corrine Drive, 407-745-4743, $$
SE7EN BITES The brainchild of local chef Trina GregoryPropst, this bakery and eatery had to move to bigger digs a few years ago to meet demand. And once you taste their sweet and savory confections or rib-sticking comfort food, you’ll see exactly why they needed the extra elbow room. You haven’t lived until you’ve tasted the famous salted-caramel dark-chocolate hand pie. 617 N. Primrose Drive, 407-203-0727, $
VALHALLA BAKERY
VALKYRIE DOUGHNUTS Celine Duvoisin’s dairy-free empire expands into a new shop near UCF with a clean, minimalist and wonderfully Norse feel. Here she and her crew focus on the vegan doughnuts she’s known best for, along with soft-serve and a daily rotating milkshakepastry hybrid the store calls “$9 Bullsh*t Drink of the Day.” 12226 Corporate Blvd., valkyriedoughnuts, $$
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Vishal Chunilal Oviedo Brewing Co. 1280 Oviedo Mall Blvd., Oviedo
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Even success in the IT field couldn’t stop Vishal Chunilal, an avid home brewer with a passion for the craft of beermaking, from chasing his dream of opening a brewery. Along with partners Vishal Chawhan and Prajesh Mohan, he opened Oviedo Brewing Co. in the Oviedo Mall earlier this year. An Indian-owned and operated brewery is unique for the city, if not the entire Southeast. Has that posed a challenge to you in any way or presented any barriers? Truthfully, I never saw my background as having any bearing when it came to chasing my dreams. I feel that when you are really passionate about something, you have a focus and drive that is unstoppable. It was as though the energy that I felt was translated to those that I had come in contact with … this project is really a collaboration as we shared the same passion and universal language of beer and the art of crafting a robust tasting beverage from scratch. What effect has your immigrant experience had on the brewery’s evolution? If anything, being an immigrant and seeing how
hard my parents had to work to put food on our table and a roof over our head instilled in me the iron resolve to never give up and persevere in the face of challenges. There were many obstacles in planning and executing when we started with the idea. It took me four years to find the location and financing to make this happen. I almost gave up. As brewers, what are you doing to reduce waste, emissions and energy consumption? At present, we have stayed away from using petroleum-based, single-use disposable items and instead opted to use food-service packaging products made from renewable or sustainable resources. Although we would like to set up contact with a company that can help us send our compostable products into the correct waste stream, we are taking one step at a time to move in the right direction. What’s your go-to beer when work is done? Oh wow. If I had to choose, it would be the first beer we created, called Oviedo-Zen. For me, it does as the title suggests – puts me in a Zen-like state of being. It’s a Hefeweizen-style beer and it’s one of our most popular for how smooth it is and how clean the finish is. (oviedobrewingco.com) ▲
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BIG TIME STREET FOOD CO. Big Time Street Food shares an interior door with Burton’s, one of Thornton Park’s most popular watering holes, but whether you’re buzzed or not, this food is good. Not just good; it’s loud, brash and ultra-extra. The Holy Fried Chicken Sandwich is a sinner’s version of Chick-fil-A’s spicy chicken-on-abun, and the Chorizo Montoya burger is edible chef porn: a grilled chorizo patty on top of a regular burger, plus cheese, cubed avocado and fried onions. It’s excessive. It’s craveable. It’s the Cardi B of hangover snacks. 805 E. Washington St., 407-8015464, $$
course, though it’s more soupy than you’d expect. If you’re rolling in for a pint, consider snacking on sausage rolls or scotch eggs. 2421 Curry Ford Road, 407-895-1555, $$
DIGRESS WINE A pair of experienced wine distributors opened up their own spot, a wine bar and shop that sells artisanal bottles from around the globe. The casual, welcoming vibe extends from their mood-based system of recommendations to their embrace of fun food like barbecue, doughnuts and raclette served on the homey patio. 1215 Edgewater Drive, 407-426-7510, $$
BUSTER’S BISTRO
THE GNARLY BARLEY
Convivial Belgian gastropub in the heart of Sanford’s historic district has an amazing selection of Belgian brews on tap and by the bottle. Hearty dishes make fine accompaniments to all that beer, none more so than the short rib carbonnade. A deconstructed vol-au-vent’s got flavor, as does the poutine. Closed Mondays. 300 Sanford Ave., Sanford, 407-732-6880, $$
A roadhouse that just so happens to serve great food, the Belle Isle brew pub features 10 beers on tap and a menu full of hangover preventers (or cures) like the “Snack Attack,” a mound of kettle chips buried under shredded chicken, blue cheese and salsa, and the “Johnnie Mac ’n Cheese” sandwich, a bombshell take on the French dip. Closed Monday. 7431 S. Orange Ave., 407-854-4999, $
CLADDAGH COTTAGE IRISH PUB After being shuttered for nearly a year and a half, this traditional Irish pub with grub to match revived itself in the newly minted Hourglass District. You can’t go wrong with any of their pies, whether cottage, steak and ale, or chicken, leek and mushroom. Masala pasties can be had, as can Irish stew, of
MENAGERIE EATERY & BAR From the folks who brought you the Stubborn Mule and RusTeak comes the Menagerie, an eclectic joint with an equally eclectic menu that criss-crosses international culinary boundaries. You’ll find everything from Taiwanese Night Market chicken to curried
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PUBS, TAPROOMS AND WINE BARS
Oviedo Brewing’s “peanut butter & jelly wings,” with satay peanut sauce & chili red raspberry jam. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
cauliflower served with pisco sour relish to fried cod crusted in Frosted Flakes. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Sunday brunch until 3 p.m. 101 S. Eola Drive, 407-601-5219, $$
ORANGE COUNTY BREWERS The downtown craft brewery sets the bar high with a nice selection of beers (try the Green Tea IPA and Percolator Milk Stout) alongside a wild offering of Neapolitan-style pizzas by Orlando Meats’ Eliot Hillis, here cooking under the nom de cuisine Recess Pizza. 131 N. Orange Ave., 407-914-2831, $$
THE PARKVIEW While not as sprawling a space as the Wine Room, nor as packed as Luma, the Parkview has the unpretentious, comfortable air that its neighboring Park Avenue haunts lack. Plus, the menu goes well beyond boring charcuterie and cheese plates to create highly edible pairings – roasted bone marrow, braised beet carpaccio and more – to match an intriguing selection of wines. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday. 136 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-647-9103, $$
THE PORCH Winter Park sports bar can get cacophonous at times, but the crowd seems to enjoy it – and the fact is that the food here is more than
decent. Bison meatballs are nice for sharing, while hefty burgers served with even heftier onion rings are ideal booze sponges. For a more substantial nosh, consider their Sunday brunch, offering an all-you-can-eat sampling of their menu. 643 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-571-9101, $
ROCKPIT BREWING The explosion in Central Florida breweries over the past half-decade or so has certainly been welcome, but none of them have nailed atmosphere as well as SoDo’s Rockpit Brewing. The repurposed wood and tin – along with the warm, incandescent lighting – evoke the Appalachian coal country that the owners wanted to pay tribute to. The wide variety of house-brewed lagers, ales and sours on tap doesn’t hurt either. 10 W. Illiana St., 407-826-1773, $
SANFORD BREWING CO. Sanford Brewing has a creative food menu to pair with their wide selection of housebrewed beer. Highlights include the Steak & SBC Ale – sliced steak over fries with a house-made ale sauce – and the Make Your Own Mac & Cheese menu, offering a wide assortment of cheeses, proteins and toppings to create your own cheesy combination. 400 S. Sanford Ave., Sanford, 407-732-6419, $
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Steven Richard Paddlefish Disney Springs, 1670 Buena Vista Drive
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
As a Massachusetts native, some of Steven Richard’s earliest memories are of driving around with his grandfather sampling lobster rolls all over New England. No surprise that a career in the pharmaceutical industry eventually led to a career in culinary with stints at Wolfgang Puck Grand Café, Portobello Country Italian Trattoria and, now, as executive chef of Paddlefish. How are you reducing food waste? The most impactful thing restaurants can do to reduce waste is to engineer menu items with a keen eye on portioning. Managing how things are executed on a daily basis is also a big part of this. A big part of our culture at Paddlefish is frugality and respect for the products that we use and the people who produce them. We feed our team every day, producing as many as 100 meals for our “internal guests.” Our kitchen team is very careful and diligent to save and use all kinds of food products that cannot be used for menu items, including produce, poultry, fish and meat trim. All scratch kitchens produce a ton of this material. I have a group of cooks that are proud to use every viable item. I’m consistently amazed by the creativity and care that I see as these folks
cook for each other. As an example, I have a veteran cook who routinely makes delicious flavored waters from vegetable and fruit trim – material that in most kitchens would end up in the garbage can. I’m proud to work with these people. What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? Paddlefish sources seafood products with sustainability in mind using the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program as a guidepost. We are also converting our disposable items to greener options. As an example, we have eliminated plastic straws from our operation. What was your first food addiction? When I was a kid, my dad would take me to a hot dog place where they only served “Coney dogs” and nothing else. The dogs were done on a flat-top grill and served on a steamed bun with yellow mustard, diced onion and “sauce.” The sauce was nearly chili, but not exactly, and the recipe was a closely guarded secret. I’ve done my best to reproduce it in my home kitchen and in the restaurant. We recently celebrated National Hot Dog day at Paddlefish with my version of the Coney dog. Not bad, but the mystery still eludes me. (paddlefishrestaurant.com) ▲
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SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS
At Paddlefish, a seared sea scallop over cauliflower puree, with crispy Brussels sprouts and bacon. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
HOT N JUICY CRAWFISH Las Vegas-based chain has crustaceans in the bag – literally. Crawfish, crab legs, shrimp and more are available by the pound, steamed in a plastic bag and seasoned to your taste with one of five spice mixes. Ordering is simple and service is unwaveringly cheerful. You will get messy eating with your hands, though; bring your own wet wipes. 7572 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-370-4655, $$
LEE & RICK’S OYSTER BAR An unfancy place with 50 years of experience. The pound of hot or cold shrimp has a slightly spicy flavor, and the fish-dinner platters come with heaps of fries. But the fresh, sweet oysters (raw or steamed) are the focal point. For the full effect, sit at the bar and settle in with a bucket of them. If you find a pearl, it’s yours to keep. 562 Old Winter Garden Road, 407-293-3587, $$
PADDLEFISH This three-story floating fortress is the best place for seafood in Disney Springs, though the prices may have you abandoning ship. Still, the palatable fare – lobster corn dogs, fried green tomato crab cakes, striped bass en papillote, and delightful seafood
boils – makes the prices easier to stomach. Strawberry shortcake and a chocolatebourbon tart with candied bacon also help. Some rooms can be louder than others, so don’t hesitate to request a quieter spot if desired. 1670 Buena Vista Drive, 407-9342628; $$$$
REEL FISH COASTAL KITCHEN & BAR This steadily improving fish house has a lot going for it, notably owner Fred Thimm’s commitment to great service and zeal to make the venture a success. Also successful: a bracing ceviche of shark, snapper and hogfish; panko-breaded roasted oysters; and a quartet of fried green tomatoes atop zesty roasted pepper vinaigrette. There’s also plenty of fried goodness for the fish camp lover in you. 1234 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-543-3474, $$$
WINTER PARK FISH CO. The mostly-from-Florida seafood served here will get you hooked. They’ll make a gratifying fish and chips from scratch with almost any fish they’ve got in-house (your choice!), and fresh local produce is a nice healthy touch. Expect a bit of a wait. Closed Sunday. 761 Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-6112, $$
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Rifat Altuntas The H Cuisine 7512 Dr. Phillips Blvd.
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Istanbul native Rifat Altuntas honed his skills alongside some impressive culinarians in that magnificent city, many of whom went on to highprofile posts, including Julien Piguet (Brasserie Lipp, Zurich), Martin Satow (Grand Hyatt Seoul) and Fabrice Giraud (Maison Blanche, Paris). At the H Cuisine, an Orlando steakhouse with Turkish leanings, Altuntas applies the knowledge and experience he gained from working in Istanbul’s finest bastions of beef. As an immigrant chef, do you feel the need to compromise authenticity in order to satisfy a broader palate? There will always be compromises. The biggest one is that sometimes we aren’t able to get the ingredients traditionally used in Turkish cuisine. Either they are too expensive, or they’re unavailable. So, we’ve had to adapt in order to make our food taste as authentic as possible, and I think we’ve done a good job. In restaurant kitchens, you have to be flexible and produce the best food with the equipment and ingredients
you have. We are able to get the main Turkish spices – the ones that really make Turkish cuisine unique – and very good olive oil. These are perhaps the two most important elements of Turkish food. How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? We cook fresh food from scratch every day. We minimize food waste because our kitchen processes and recipes are developed in a way that maximizes the use of every ingredient. Food costs are obviously the most important reason for minimizing waste in a restaurant, so we take the time to choose seasonal ingredients that can be used in their entirety. What was your very first food addiction? Zeytinyağlı bamya, or Turkish okra in olive oil. I used to do my homework in the kitchen, and would watch my mother cook every day. Eventually, I started helping her, and learned to love the process of making delicious food. She made this okra dish that was particularly good, and that’s what I make when I’m missing home. (thehcuisine.com) ▲
STEAKHOUSES 66 | bite 2019 | orlando weekly At the H Cuisine, a Josper-grilled bone-in ribeye steak – 20 ounces, dry-aged 28 days. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
CAPA Sexy rooftop restaurant at the Four Seasons shows off its style with Basque- and Spanishinspired specialties and USDA Prime steaks. It’s hard to go wrong with any dish, but you’ll go right with hamachi crudo to start. If big beef is your craving, the bone-in filet is sublime, though it’ll set you back $69. Nice. Four Seasons Resort Orlando, 10100 Dream Tree Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-313-7777, $$$$
CHRISTNER’S PRIME STEAK & LOBSTER At this family-owned Orlando staple, there’s no confusion over what to order: USDA Prime steaks and chops and primo cold-water lobster, plus old-school steakhouse sides like potatoes au gratin and creamed spinach, all served in a delightful maze of dark woodpaneled rooms. 729 Lee Road, 407-6454443, $$$$
DEL FRISCO’S DOUBLE EAGLE STEAKHOUSE Be prepared to spend a little more on this experience. First, order the Wagyu tomahawk ribeye ($89). Next, allow a sommelier to help pair your beefy investment with a bottle worthy of it. Whatever you do, trust the chef when your server tells you he prefers to cook it to medium – it’s highly marbled and needs a moderate amount of cooking to melt that lusciousness into its full potential. The steak is 32 ounces, making it perfect to share, and quite a value once you start pricing out the other options. 9150 International Drive, 407351-5074, $$$$
FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR Fleming’s offers aged, hand-cut beef in huge, thick-as-a-brick servings and family-style side dishes, giant seafood entrees and enormous desserts. Big and beefy. 933 Orlando Ave.,
FOGO DE CHÃO BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE A shrine to beef. Juicy skirt steak, salt-crusted rib-eye and meltingly tender filet are standouts, but accoutrements like deep-fried polenta squares, bacon-studded rice and beans, and thick spears of chilled asparagus will also wow. The impressive wine list leans toward South American malbecs and rioja; the high ratio of staff to diners means service is equally impressive. 8282 International Drive, 407-370-0711, $$$$
KRES CHOPHOUSE Downtown chophouse brings an element other steakhouses don’t seem to have – Jazz Age flair and impeccable service. The prime cuts of meat are damn fine too, be they rib-eye steaks or foie gras-topped elk tenderloins. An in-house sommelier roams the space proffering sagacious wine advice. Desserts, like white chocolate bread pudding with whiskey sauce, also cater to epicurean sensibilities. 17 W. Church St., 407-4477950, $$$$
LA BOUCHERIE French steakhouse chain makes its U.S. debut inside the Bay Hill Plaza, offering tasty and accessible fare for meat-lovers.
Steaks, naturally, are the focus, including cuts like rump steak, top sirloin and various ground steaks. The “maquignon” – a burger with hashbrowns acting as buns – is an ideal lunchtime option. For starters, consider escargots, foie gras or a seasonal terrine. For the steak-averse, traditional preparations of pot au feu and blanquette de veau will give you all the French feels. There are 12 dessert options to choose from. 7625 Turkey Lake Road, 407-930-1708, $$$
LINDA’S LA CANTINA No matter how you slice it, Linda’s La Cantina serves a superb steak and has been doing so for more than half a century. Sit in the Fire Fountain Lounge sipping a grasshopper while you’re waiting for your checked-tablecloth table in the dining room – and keep in mind that on most nights, reservations are recommended. All steaks are cut in-house, including the monster 2-pound T-bone. Closed Sunday and Monday. 4721 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-4491, $$$
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Weighing in heavily on the masculine side of the top-dollar dining spectrum, the ambience here is powerful. The New Orleans-based chain serves only aged meats from cornfed Hereford cows, so tender a knife isn’t necessary. For expense accounts and special occasions. Multiple locations; $$$$
The H Cuisine: Josper-grilled Scottish scallop served with saffron pasta and black truffle. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
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Winter Park, 407-699-9463; also 8030 Via Dellagio Way, 407-352-5706; $$$
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Ryan Manning MX Taco
207 N. Bumby Ave.
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Ryan Manning ate tacos all across Mexico during his stint as chef de cuisine at the Ritz-Carlton in Cancun. He later staged a pop-up at the Mexican Embassy in Washington, D.C., prior to opening his unassuming Milk District taquería, MX Taco. Cultural appropriation has become an increasingly sensitive topic in the world of food. What are your thoughts on food identity and ownership? Just because someone is a native from a country doesn’t entitle them to the sole rights to a cuisine. I lived in Mexico for several years and had the chance to learn in professional high-end kitchens and worked with other culinary business owners in Mexico. In our short restaurant life, we’ve invested into the Mexican economy by supporting Mexican businesses (MX Taco’s uniforms are made by an entrepreneur friend of mine in Cholula) and Mexican charities (we’ve raised more than $1,000 in support of culinary education in Veracruz and have donated $300 to Huellas de Pan in Cancun, which supports abused women and their children). You’re not an expert in a cuisine because of your race. You’re an expert because of your passion, hard work, and drive.
What challenges have you personally faced as a nonMexican running an “authentic” taquería? In reality, not many. My food speaks for itself. I’m fluent in Spanish and speak some Mayan. Before opening, we were able to become culinary ambassadors for the Mexican government in the United States by doing pop-up events with them and supporting the Mexican Cultural Institute. We’re scheduled to join the Mexican Consulate of Orlando as caterers for their VIP event at the Consulate for Mexican Independence Day this September, and that’s a testament to the authenticity of our cuisine. How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? With our guisados style of cooking – a method of slow braised cooking – there is very little waste. We also use peltre, or metal plates, to avoid waste and breakage, and our to-go containers and bags are biodegradable paper. What was your first food addiction? Spätzle! My mouth waters just thinking about it. (mxtacorestaurant.com) ▲
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LATIN & MEXICAN RESTAURANTS
Chilaquiles at MX Taco: tortilla chips with salsa verde, carnitas, pickled onion, crema Mexicana, cotija cheese, avocado puree & cilantro. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
AGAVE AZUL The cool blue decor belies the spicy fare served here. Tequila is the aperitif of choice, but all good drinks lead to food, and the Tex-Mex dishes served here are done right. Chunky guacamole, plato grande (a hungry man’s dish of skirt steak, picadillo enchilada and a superb chicken tamale slathered in mole), and the pastel de piña are all recommended, as are reservations. 900 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park; also 4750 S. Kirkman Road, 407-704-6930; $$
BLACK BEAN DELI After dishing out homespun favorites since the mid-’80s, Winter Park’s Black Bean has gained a new vitality. Now there’s a Colonial Drive location, beautifully designed and offering beer and outdoor café tables. Lunch platters are a bargain; tender roast chicken has a citrusy tang, pork is marinated and slow-cooked and the avocado dressing is pale-green magic. 1835 E. Colonial Drive, 407-203-0922; also 1346 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park (opening soon); $
shoulder achiote with aji panca. The chocolate-chipotle flan will leave a lasting impression. 1323 N. Mills Ave., 407601-0994, $$
BORDER GRILL This MetroWest taquería is a real find, and once found, a treasure trove of tacos, tortas, gorditas, burritos and caldos awaits. Consider starting with fresh guacamole and ending with homemade flan, no matter how stuffed you feel. Salsas can be downright infernal, but Mexican Coca-Cola and various aguas frescas prove effective extinguishers. 5695 Vineland Road, 407-352-0101, $
CHELA TEQUILA & TACOS
BLACK ROOSTER TAQUERIA
Tacos are, of course, the main event, but we also liked shareable dishes like the roasted cauliflower with Indo-Mex flavorings and corn on the cob with a smoky, cheesy, peppery finish. Creamy guac is bright but not too bright, and the chicken-jicama slaw makes a worthy, if safe, main. If you must have dessert, choose the choco taco to close. If you want corn tortillas instead of flour, just ask. 183 S. Orange Ave., 407-985-5272, $$
Tacos at this Mills 50 taqueria are carefully constructed, with bracing epazote in the vegetarian taco, pickled chile poblano and Oaxaca cheese in the beef-and-bacon asada, and earthy achiote in the pork taco. A texturally brilliant kale salad is out of the norm, but well worth ordering, as is a stew of beef
Hourglass District taqueria brings a fine mix of Mexican street eats to the newly minted neighborhood, with tacos – al pastor, mahi and ground beef – worth ordering. Stellar burritos – the carne asada and carnitas in
CILANTRO’S TAQUERIA
particular – gratify, as does the grilled shrimp tostada. Corn tortillas are made in house; flour tortillas are not. 1427 S. Bumby Ave., 321-247-5665, $
COCINA 214 Haute-Texican cuisine gives good cause to visit this industrial-chic Park Avenuearea resto. From skillfully rendered shrimp piri-piri to pollo pibil to duck confit tacos, the kitchen employs a mix of traditional and contemporary methods. Brunch here is one of the few places in town you’ll find authentic migas and chilaquiles. 151 E. Welbourne Ave., Winter Park, 407-790-7997, $$
COCO COCINA MEXICANA Who knows whether serving regional Mexican fare in upscale digs is enough to reverse the curse of this South Eola space, but dishes like a bracing aguachile negro and crunchy/creamy chapuline-and-guacamole tacos give one hope. Weekend brunches are highlighted by $4 margaritas. 100 S. Eola Drive, 407-601-5750, $$
DON JULIO’S MEXICAN KITCHEN & TEQUILA BAR At first glance, Don Julio’s might seem like yet another also-ran in the bloated TexMex market, but both locations distinguish themselves with offerings like the flaming Don Julio Parrillada mixed platter, along with tacos made with beef lengua and nopales. 551 S. Chickasaw Trail, 407-930-3735; also 4275 W. Lake Mary Blvd., Lake Mary, 321-3630025; $$
GRINGOS LOCOS Downtown taquería is a boon for late-night revelers offering standard tacos, burritos, chimis and quesadillas. The sizable girth of the chimi and “1 Night Slam” burrito make them ideal alcohol sponges, and crisp, flaky empanadas are great grab-and-go items. Skip bland guacamole and overdone fish tacos. Multiple locations, gringoslocos.com; $
HUNGER STREET TACOS The gourmet taco trend gains traction at Hunger Street Tacos, named after the famed Mexico City strip. Brisket, chorizo and chicken tinga tacos are twice-tortillaed in proper fashion. Vegan (sautéed hibiscus taco) and vegetarian options (squash blossom quesadilla; vegetable tinga) will please the meatless crowd. Desserts like chocoflan and Key lime pie with toasted meringue are more than just mere afterthoughts. 2103 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 321-444-6270, $
MX TACO Taco stand in the heart of the Milk District adds to the city’s taco diversity, offering tacos from various states/regions of Mexico. Sure, you’ll find cochinita pibil and mole poblano tacos, but you’ll also find steak with sikil pik
(a pumpkin seed sauce), shrimp tikin xic (a marinade of achiote and bitter orange) and Michoacán carnitas of confit pulled pork. Don’t overlook quesadillas with Oaxacan cheese and chorizo, refreshing aguas frescas (made in house) or a dessert of avocado ice cream with candied pumpkin seed, Mexican chocolate and chile-spiced coconut flakes. 207 N. Bumby Ave., 407-730-5241, $
REYES MEZCALERIA True flavors from various regions of Mexico come out in such dishes as duck breast with mole negro, tostadas with yellowfin tuna or braised short rib, wonderfully moist tamales and fried yuca with carnitas. Don’t pass on veg chile rellenos stuffed with beans, queso Oaxaca and grilled corn, or red chile enchiladas with short rib and pumpkin. 821 N. Orange Ave., 407-868-9007, $$$
SUPER RICO COLOMBIAN BISTRO Colombian specialties fly onto your table at this newly expanded version of downtown’s best-kept secret. Beef and grilled oniontopped patacones (somewhat similar to tostones), pintxos (grilled meat skewers) and bright-yellow cheese empanadas are tasty; the arepa burger is not to be missed. 57 W. Central Blvd., 407-426-7007, $
TAKO CHEENA An eclectic offering of tacos, burritos and arepas stuffed with mostly Asian (but also Indian and African) fillings sets this taquería apart from the rest – along with the loud music and edgy art. Empanadas are a must to start, then dive right into the sublime pankocrusted cod taco. Burritos are substantial – don’t pass up the African braised beef, with corn, potatoes and quinoa – and the sauces, especially sweet chili with smoked ghost pepper, are sublime. Multiple locations, mytakocheena.com; $
TIN & TACO Hearty and filling tacos are the calling card for this bustling downtown taqueria. Eight bucks scores your choice of two tacos, or the same ingredients in a burrito, in a rice bowl, or tossed in a bag of Doritos. Stick to the tacos – the tortillas are sprinkled with cheddar and fried before being stuffed with sundry meats. A nice selection of craft beer and craft sodas keeps things appropriately crafty. 40 W. Washington St., 407-4254340; also 419 E. Michigan St., 407-7345988; $
ZAZA NEW CUBAN DINER Zaza serves affordable, bountiful dinner plates, perfect Cuban toast and some of the finest café con leche north of Key West. Flaky, buttery homemade guava-and-cream cheese pastries make a sweet finish. Multiple locations, zazacubandiner.com, $
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LATIN & MEXICAN RESTAURANTS
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Susuru
8548 Palm Parkway
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Lewis Lin transformed College Park mainstay Jade Sushi & New Asian into one of the better restaurants in the neighborhood, but his tourist sector gastropub, Susuru, offers a completely different experience – a whimsical, nostalgic and socially minded izakaya of the sort he frequented while living in Japan. Cultural appropriation has become an increasingly sensitive topic in the world of food. What are your thoughts on food identity and food ownership? Food, like language, exists as a vehicle for connecting people and expressing culture. I believe that it’s important for anyone who chooses to re-create any dish to understand the dish – its ingredients and history. Respecting a culture’s food is very important, so that it doesn’t lose its identity. It’s crucial we understand the importance of adaptation to local palates and customs. We do both – global and local – at Susuru in Orlando.
What effect has your immigrant experience had on the restaurant’s evolution? Susuru is a concept based on the many experiences that I had in Japan and my native country, Taiwan. Living so close to Japan growing up allowed me to visit the country frequently and immerse myself in its culture. Taiwan was also heavily influenced by the Japanese during the Shōwa era, so naturally many izakayas popped up in the country as well. I had the opportunity to learn from some of those chefs and my passion for the cuisine grew. The delicious skewers along with the lively and casual atmosphere that I experienced dining and drinking with friends in izakayas is the piece of Japan that I wanted to bring to Orlando. What steps have you made to make your restaurant more sustainable? We try our best to minimize food waste at Susuru. We make use of every part of the chicken. None of it goes to waste. We’ve even created dishes using parts of the chicken that many would think to just toss. For example, we focus a
lot on our skewers, specifically yakitori (grilled chicken skewers). Yes, we have the more common parts of the chicken such as the wing, breast and thigh meat, but we also use parts like the butt, heart, cartilage and knee! Our tsukune (chicken meat ball) is ground using remaining meat after our cooks hand-carve the meat for our skewers. The rest of the chicken is used in making our tori paitan ramen stock and our sous-vide chicken chashu. On top of that we are also working on sourcing our chicken from local farmers. That is something else that we are excited to bring for our customers in the future. What was your first food addiction? Dumplings. I loved them because they were delicious and they brought me back to my childhood. When I was a kid, I would be so excited when I woke up to see my mother making dumplings in the kitchen. When I was old enough, I joined her in making them. She patiently taught me how to perfectly pleat them, which was harder than it looked. I struggled as a child, but now it’s like riding a bike. (susuruorl.com)▲
ASIAN RESTAURANTS 78 | bite 2019 | orlando weekly At Susuru, chicken yakitori is grilled to order over binchotan charcoal and finished with aged tare. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
BAANCHAN THAI East Orlando Thai joint delivers a bit of the traditional (the pad Thai is solid) with a few dishes to lure the intrepid diner, like fried seasoned quail eggs; “Thai heaven beef,” aka fried beef jerky; and duck ramen in a lemongrass broth cloaking infernal red-hot chilis. Creamy Thai tea makes a great palliative. 10725 E. Colonial Drive, 407-2708448, $
BLENDED BISTRO & BOBA The denizens of College Park will surely appreciate the fact that they no longer have to trek all the way over to Colonialtown to get a decent banh mí, thanks to the newly opened Blended Bistro & Boba. Other faves on the menu include bao, pho and bun, along with the ever more ubiquitous poke bowls. 2306 Edgewater Drive, 407-868-9836, $
CHUAN LU GARDEN For those who prefer their Chinese cuisine on the invigorating side, Chuan Lu employs plenty of fiery stimulants in their authentic, realdeal Sichuan fare. An order of cumin lamb, laced with tien tsin peppers and aromatic Sichuan peppercorns, is a must. Mains are ample. 1101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-8968966; also 11891 E. Colonial Drive, 407282-3388; $$
shoyu, miso and curry ramen. But don’t overlook other soupless options like cracklinggood Korean fried chicken, rich uni pasta, and Sichuan cucumbers. 3201 Corrine Drive, 407-960-1228, $$
DOMU CHIBI Waits can get long at this “quick casual” offshoot of the highly lauded Domu, but you’ll get legit bowls of ramen for under $10. Noodles aren’t made in house (they’re from the respected Sun Noodle) as they are at Domu’s flagship, but the broths and bases, like the 18-hour tonkotsu, certainly are. Rice bowls and smaller bites like gyoza and fries are offered too. Open daily. 869 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-730-7260, $
JINYA RAMEN BAR Decor is minimalist and food comes out fast and piping hot at this Los Angeles-based chain ramen-ya. The signature Jinya Tonkotsu Black ramen, a flavorful pork broth accented by a slick of unctuous fat, is stuffed with nori sheets, tender seared pork belly, a whole seasoned egg, kikurage seaweed and fried garlic – and toothsome noodles, of course. Tokyo curry rice and crispy-creamy octopus fritters are also best bets, if you’re going broth-free. 8 N. Summerlin Ave., 407-7041825, $$
DOMU
JOYFUL GARDEN
Popular ramen joint lives up to the hype, offering near-perfect bowls of tonkotsu,
Those with a sense of the adventurous will dive headlong into the seafood-heavy
KADENCE From the trio that brought us Kappo comes Kadence, a nine-seat stunner serving superlative multicourse omakases. Ingredients are ever-changing and are flown in twice, sometimes thrice, weekly from Japan; what they do with them is why a visit here is a must for any Japanophile. Sushionly lunches go for $61-$75 and feature 12 pieces, soup and dessert. 1809 E. Winter Park Road, $$$$
KING BAO Soft, doughy buns stuffed with kimchi fried chicken, Korean short rib or braised pork belly – or tofu or sweet potato croquette, for the veggies – will induce cravings leading to multiple visits. 710 N. Mills Ave., 407-2370013, $
KABOOKI SUSHI From plating sublimely fresh cuts of sashimi to searing amazingly gratifying escolar splashed with kimchee vinaigrette, chef Henry Moso knows sushi; non-sushi items like crisp
hamachi collar and tender wagyu yaki are just as expertly rendered. 3122 E. Colonial Drive, 407-228-3839, also 7705 Turkey Lake Road, 407-776-2001; $$$
PETER’S KITCHEN CHINA BISTRO From the man that brought us Tasty Wok and Ming’s Bistro comes Peter Leung’s namesake house of Hong Kong delights. Dim sum carts are a popular draw on weekends, but dim sum can also be ordered daily for lunch: chicken feet, turnip cakes, custard buns or stellar eggplant stuffed with fried shrimp. Less adventurous palates will gravitate to the buzzy orange chicken. 3922 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-8174, $$
PHO 88 One of the first Vietnamese noodle shops in Orlando and one of the best, specializing in gigantic bowls of eerily delicious pho: very thin rice noodles and various cuts of beef submerged in delicately seasoned broth. 730 N. Mills Ave., 407-897-3488, $
STICKY RICE LAO STREET FOOD Within the spectrum of flavors at the city’s sole Laotian eatery, you’ll find the familiar flavors of sweet and spicy along with flurries of funky, fermented and fishy. Popular dishes include pork tapioca dumplings, sticky chicken wings and lemongrass beef jerky; the papaya salad offers a blast of umami courtesy of fermented crab, crab paste and shrimp paste more suited to advanced palates. 1915 E. Colonial Drive, 321-800-6532, $
SUSHI POP Don’t let the fuchsia hues and J-popthemed decor fool you – Sushi Pop takes its fare seriously. Stellar sushi and sashimi complement a variety of rolls, entrees and whimsical desserts flourished with notes of molecular gastronomy. Sake fans have the privilege of consulting an in-house expert. 310 W. Mitchell Hammock Road, Oviedo, 407-542-5975; also 115 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 321-203-2282; $$$
THE RAMEN
SUSURU
This humble ramen joint by Suichi Tanida, the former chef at Epcot’s Mitsukoshi Restaurant, gives downtowners a healthy dose of traditional tonkotsu, shoyu and miso ramen. Don’t overlook gratifying donburi rice bowls or takoyaki. A handful of vegan options are offered. 486 N. Orange Ave., 407-2334801, $$
The nostalgia-packed decor of this attractions-area izakaya dazzles as much as the brilliant menu. Of note are the skewered chicken thighs and chicken skin, as well as the tubular chicken meatball drizzled with your choice of five sauces. Short rib, Kurobuta pork-honey sausage and even Brussels sprouts benefit from binchotan grilling. Don’t
pass up the street corn nor the hamachi collar. Cocktails come camera-ready. 8548 Palm Parkway, 407-778-4813, $
TASTE OF CHENGDU Sichuan specialties keep things fiery at this comfy West Colonial Drive restaurant, but it’s the skill of chef-owner Xiong “Tiger” Tang, former executive chef of Zen at the Omni Orlando Resort, that has Chinese food enthusiasts abuzz. What to order? Really, anything – but the pan-fried pompano concealed under a heap of triple chili pepper, peanuts and a five-spice sauce, or the spicy whole lobster hacked and reassembled in its shell adorned in an alluring mix of chilies, peppercorns, garlic and cilantro are both great places to start. 2030 W. Colonial Drive, 407-839-1983, $$$
WA SUSHI One of the city’s best sushi joints sits in a strip mall in Casselberry – a bit of a surprise, but many culinary gems reside in nondescript locales. Weekly deliveries from Tsukiji Fish Market highlight the grand sashimi moriawase, a chef’s selection of 16 cuts. If you’re lucky, scorpion fish, goatfish and madai will make the list. Hushpuppy-like takoyaki and deconstructed sunomono are worthy options, but bluefin otoro flecked with gold leaf may be the ultimate indulgence. 1285 Seminola Blvd., Casselberry, 407-6363251, $$
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options at this West Colonial restaurant. There are live critters like crystal crab, lobster, baby pomfret, striped bass, eel and more for the taking, as well as plenty of Hong Kong-style fare. The menu is vast, but if you’re in a group, consider sharing a pricey portion of geoduck sashimi. 5210 W. Colonial Drive, 407-2708810; $$$
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Justin Xiong La Kuma Coffee 840 E. State Road 434, Longwood
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Coffee connoisseur and self-taught bean freak Justin Xiong not only wanted to share his passion for coffee with the masses, but, in his Longwood coffee house La Kuma, wanted to offer exacting and precise cups of coffee with Japanese flair. When did you have your first taste of coffee? I was 10 years old when I first tried coffee. It was bitter and unpleasant, because it was just burnt convenience store coffee. Then when I got into middle school, I was introduced to the “gateway drug” for a lot of the coffee drinkers – cafe mocha. At first, I only treated it as a liquid dessert because of how sweet it usually is. Then I discerned the lightly bitter element that balanced out the drink, and I was hooked on the taste of coffee. You’re a Taiwanese person running a Japanese coffee shop. What made you veer toward a Japanese-style cafe as opposed to, say, a Taiwanese-style cafe employing coffee beans from Taiwan? Taiwanese culture is heavily influenced by Japanese culture, especially over the past century or so. I was always
amazed by Japanese dedication to craftsmanship. The deeper I delve into the world of coffee, the more I am attracted by Japanese coffee culture and the way the Japanese treat their coffee. It is a balance of science and art. It is so precise and yet so elegant. All I had in mind was providing an intoxicating coffee experience with an affordable price. To bring the best experience, we actually source organic and freshly roasted coffee beans from a local roaster partner, Blessed Bean Coffee. We use top-quality, organic milk and milk alternatives to pair with our coffee. Then we brew the coffee with the right equipment, at an accurate water temperature using precise procedural and brewing methods. We take great care in offering a quality cup of coffee. What effect has your immigrant experience had on the restaurant’s evolution? American coffee culture is very different from what I am used to. Coffee here is more of a quick fix to the post-wakeup syndrome many people experience, instead of savoring the experience. Given my love of coffee, it’s quite difficult for me to see people just gulp it down instead of enjoying an intoxicating experience. So I made it my mission to preach about the Japanese coffee experience, which led to the creation of La Kuma Coffee.(lakumacoffee.com) ▲
COFFEE & TEA 82 | bite 2019 | orlando weekly A Kona pour-over at La Kuma. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
AUSTIN’S COFFEE After the sun sets, Austin’s is less about fair trade and fresh roasting and more about moderately expensive microbrews. Squeeze between anarcho-hipsters for live bands, independent film screenings, spoken word and stand-up comedy open mics. Free Wi-Fi is a plus, as are the wildly painted (by late local artist Morgan Steele) restrooms. 929 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-9753364; $
BUBBLE & CO. TEA BAR The decor at Bubble & Co. is super chic, but their menu – consisting of breakfast faves, refreshing bubble and milk teas, and sugarloaded waffles and ice cream sundaes – makes it one of the sweetest spots on I-Drive. 6400 International Drove, 407-751-7340, $
CRAFT & COMMON This coffee shop is more than just a place for great Instagram pictures (although it’s definitely that, with its cute neon sign and wallpaper). Specialty espresso drinks like
the Pacific Fog, with lavender, honey and pink salt, or the Wild Child, with rose syrup and cardamom, are a cut above. And after 4 p.m., you can enjoy beer, wine and stellar bar snacks like bacon-wrapped dates and truffle popcorn as well. 47 E. Robinson, 407723-8078, $$
DEEPLY COFFEE This peaceful downtown stop serves up all kinds of coffees from third-wave roasters, including King State, roasted in nearby Tampa. Stop by for a cup, a cold-brew or a cafe affogato, and pair it with one of their Belgian waffles. Or try one of their coffee elixirs, like espresso, lime and tonic. 111 N. Magnolia Ave., facebook.com/ deeplycoffeeco, $
DOWNTOWN CREDO Espresso drinks (lattes, macchiato, cappuccino), pour-overs and cold-brews are served in three different spaces – College Park, Florida Hospital and downtown’s North Quarter – all as sleekly simple as
LINEAGE COFFEE ROASTING The Lineage staff goes deep, experimenting endlessly with roast times and brew techniques to bring out the very best from each single-origin, limited-edition bean. When you outgrow caffeinated milkshakes topped with whipped cream, Lineage will show you how their passion pays off in the intense flavor and silky texture of the most cultivated cup of coffee Orlando has to offer. 3201 Corrine Drive, 407-205-8096; also 1011 E. Colonial Drive; $$
NEW GENERAL This modern, minimal coffee counter wedged into the front of an exquisitely curated general store is an utterly soothing space. Try the honey latte with oat milk and the adaptogenic of your choice. 155 E. New England Ave., Winter Park, 321-972-2819; $
OMELET BAR the menu. The pay-what-you-will model is intriguing, and it seems to be working out for them – it certainly is for us. Multiple locations, downtowncredo.com; $
DRUNKEN MONKEY COFFEE BAR Meat, though present on the menu, takes a backseat to healthy vegan and vegetarian fare at this urban coffeehouse. Chewy Anzac biscuits partner well with the Mojo Jojo, an instantly addictive coffee drink with cinnamon and sweetened condensed milk. Keeping it simple? Try a cup of their own roast, black, no sugar. 444 N. Bumby Ave., 407-8934994; $
FOXTAIL COFFEE CO. Nothing less than total world domination seems to be the goal of the rapidly expanding local coffee chain, and from the tiniest cortadito to the showiest siphon brew, Foxtail imbues its coffee with an appropriate level of drama. Foxtail roasts their own beans, and they serve the expected espresso drinks, as well as cold brew, pour-overs, presses and siphons; less expectedly, they offer as many as six different cold brews on tap, with at least one nitro at all times. Multiple locations, foxtailcoffee.com; $$
This UCF-area newcomer offers creative takes on more than just omelets – though that Bostonian omelet, topped with lobster bisque, is certainly a standout on the menu. You can also satisfy your sweet tooth with a variety of confectionery waffle arrangements. And an expansive drink menu makes this a hot spot for collegiate Sundays Funday. Open daily. 12250 Strategy Blvd., 407-704-1597; $$
STARDUST VIDEO & COFFEE Over the years, the Audubon Park stalwart has morphed to serve the changing desires of the community. Among its many functions (work and study spot, café, farmers market) and despite its ramshackle air, the ’dust is prized by anyone looking for a quality lunch, a late-night snack, or a nice buzzy glow, whether from caffeine or liquor. 1842 E. Winter Park Road; 407-623-3393; $
VESPR COFFEEBAR Across Alafaya Trail from the circus of Waterford Lakes Town Center is Vespr, a minimalist storefront peddling single-origin joe and using mad-scientist-worthy brew methods like the Japanese Hario siphon method, to produce the smoothest cup of java. 626 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-476-3093; $
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LA KUMA COFFEE While it’s definitely a temple of technique where any coffee snob will be satisfied, La Kuma is also extremely welcoming and homey. And it’s the only place we know of locally that makes cold-brew to order with the Japanese ice pour-over method. 840 E. State Road 434, Longwood, 407-960-8393; $$
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Yojan Gonzalez & Lisa Plasencia A Lo Cubano Kitchen
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Yojan Gonzalez is from Cuba, Lisa Plasencia is from Miami and, together, the husband-andwife tandem behind the A Lo Cubano Kitchen food truck bring a little taste of Havana’s Malecón and the flavor of Miami’s Calle Ocho to the streets of Orlando. What effect has your personal immigrant experience had on your business’s evolution? As an immigrant coming from Cuba where we didn’t have anything to the United States where I didn’t know the language and I didn’t have any money, it was a struggle. Not having anything, but having the opportunities, made me work that much harder. I pushed the envelope to be better and have a better life than where I came from. Working to be the best we can, and provide a better life for the future generations, is why we do this. Have you ever felt the need to compromise authenticity in order to satisfy a broader palate? As chefs, we try to stay true to our roots and culture. Being an immigrant chef and my wife
being a Cuban-American chef, we’ve been able to come up with a modern twist to our menu while staying true to the flavors we grew up with – creating a modern interpretation to a classic dish that we know everyone will love. How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? We really focus on trying to utilize our food and not waste anything. We put leftovers to good use by making specials for that week. For example, my wife will make guava bread pudding from any extra bread we have. I use escabeche for ropa vieja and chicken will be used to make croquetas. We have cultivated an organic herb garden as well so that we’re always using the freshest ingredients. What was your first food addiction? Being that I came from Cuba and my wife is from Miami, we had the same food addiction growing up – croquetas! You’ll never find frozen, store-bought croquetas at A Lo Cubano. They’re always made fresh and we’re constantly finding new ways to give them a twist! (facebook.com/ alocubanokitchen) ▲
FOOD TRUCKS 86 | bite 2019 | orlando weekly Ham and bacon croquetas with 305 aioli, at A Lo Cubano Kitchen (photo by Rob Bartlett)
ADAO PASTEL GOURMET Serving handmade stuffed pasteles, the Brazilian version of empanadas, Adao mixes it up with a combination of sweet and savory handheld treats. Each pastel is fried to order, so chomp at your own risk – we suggest biting off a tiny bit and letting the steam escape before going all in. Try pasteles filled with spiced shrimp, Brie and apricot, or dulce de leche with coconut. (facebook.com/adaousa)
A LA CART Orlando has had several “permanent food truck parking” spots over the years, but A La Cart is doing it better. Located in the Milk District, A La Cart hosts both long-term and a rotating cast of mobile food vendors every day, and the bar features a rotating draft list of 15 taps of beer, wine, cider and cold brew. (609 Irvington Ave., 407-776-4693, alacartorlando.com)
CARO-BAMA BBQ Caro-Bama is a blend of Carolina and Alabama style barbecue, and since it’s common knowledge that Southerners take
barbecue super seriously, it’s safe to say Caro-Bama does too. They’re best known for their five specialty sauces, which you can slather on any of their basic sandwiches. Their ribs aren’t so bad either. (facebook.com/ carobamabbq)
HOT ASIAN BUNS The sweet doughy buns come stuffed with all kinds of creative combos – brisket with kimchee and horseradish cream; pork asada with chicharrones, even a few vegan options. Just like in the good old days of Orlando’s food truck scene, these chefs are taking a humble street food and elevating it sky-high. (facebook.com/hotasianbunsfoodtruck)
KOREAN BBQ TACO BOX KBBQBox was one of the first food trucks to take off in Orlando, and it’s still one of the best. You never know for sure what you’re going to get with your order, but whatever they toss in the box to accompany your main dish of choice (soft tacos filled with lightly spiced pork, a galbi sub with sweet marinated beef short rib, or savory bulgogi with rice), it’s
LA EMPANADA This truck takes the canny approach of superspecialization. Empanadas are the only “main” they serve – some baked, some fried – filled with a smart mix of classic, sweet, and ever-moreinventive flavor combinations like chicken banh mi, sweet potato-and-chèvre and truffled mac and cheese, or dark chocolate with sea salt. A kale-and-apple side salad is a refreshing accompaniment to their rich stuffed creations. (facebook.com/laempanadafoodtruck)
MIDNIGHT SUN ICE CREAM SANDWICH CO. You think you know ice cream sandwiches? You know nothing, Jon Snow. Midnight Sun’s creations are unlike any ice cream sammie you’ve seen or tasted before – hefty handfuls of ice cream and pastry in ever-changing flavor combos like Parmesan-medjool date ice cream on walnut shortbread or miso butterscotch ice cream on black-sesame cookies. (midnightsunicecream.com)
PERU POWER / JAMA PERUVIAN STREET FOOD Two trucks, two different menus, one diverse food culture. These trucks are serving up fresh ceviche, lomo saltado tacos, rice bowls and Peruvianinspired burgers, all to be appropriately washed down with an ice-cold Inca Cola. (facebook. com/perupowerfoodtruck)
SWEDEDISH Sorry, IKEA, but SwedeDish’s Scandinavian savories beat yours into the dust. Viveca Averstedt’s traditional Swedish meatballs are topped with creamy gravy and sided with ultra-buttery mashed potatoes, lingonberry relish and a fragrant cucumber-and-dill pickled salad. The traditional Viking Dog is a messy-delicious assemblage of all-beef frank, crab salad and mashed potatoes, topped with crunchy fried onions and rolled up in a flatbread. Extra napkins advised. (facebook.com/swededishfoodtruck)
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sure to make dining here an adventure. (facebook. com/kbbqbox)
SUSHI AND SEOUL ON THE ROLL Sushi … from a truck … in Florida? Sounds like a dicey proposition, and it’s true that Sushi and Seoul is one of the few sushi food trucks in Florida. But skip their menu at your own peril, because it’s superior. Besides rolls, S&S also sells Koreaninspired eats like pork belly doughnuts, pot stickers, barbecue buns and the most amazing tempura avocado. (facebook.com/sushiandseoul)
TAMALE CO. MEXICAN STREET FOOD There’s nothing like a real, hand-made tamale (don’t even talk to us about those salt-lick monstrosities that come in a jar or can) and the Tamayos of Tamale Co. will do you right. Their sweet, steamed corn masa dough comes wrapped around any of a dozen fillings – including vegan ones, which are not so easy to find. (tamaleco.com; also found at Hourglass Social House, 2411 Curry Ford Road, 407203-6505)
A Lo Cubano Kitchen: tostones with mojo pulled pork, mojo aioli, chicharrones and microgreens (photo by Rob Bartlett)
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Va Propst and Trina Gregory-Propst Sette 1407 N. Orange Ave.
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
On the heels of their uber-popular Southern comfort spot Se7en Bites, Va Propst and Trina Gregory-Propst bring comfort Italian-style to Ivanhoe Village with Sette. Cultural appropriation has become an increasingly sensitive topic in the world of food. What are your thoughts on food identity and food ownership, especially considering neither of you are of Italian descent, yet are running an Italian restaurant? Trina Gregory-Propst: In this giant melting-pot world we live in, we believe that food and its history and origins create inspiration. All food has a history that surpasses our own beginnings as individuals, as a family, and even more so as a country that, itself, was created from other cultures. Sette is inspired by the food culture of Italy and its history, and while neither of us are of Italian descent, we don’t feel that the time, energy, passion and appreciation we have for the foundations of Italian cookery make us any less qualified to produce thoughtful and creative Italian “inspired” dishes. We are not trying to be something we aren’t. What we are is passionate about our food quality, diversity, our staff family, our community, our Orlando food scene and our own creative needs that are expressed through both of our restaurants.
How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? This is a practice for us that’s been in place from the beginning of Se7en Bites. We extensively plan all menu options and focus on how we can make the most of every morsel. We really drive this process home by producing small-batch items so that we use everything we make. Beyond food sustainability, we’ve also focused on reducing our footprint on physical waste, especially after moving Se7en Bites into our new space. We worked with the city to learn more about recycling and managed to reduce our actual non-recyclable waste to less than 10 percent. We put effort and thought into every choice we make about both Se7en Bites and Sette and the impact they have on our city and our neighbors. What was your very first food addiction? Va is now, and has always been, addicted to Slurpees, but the smile on her face after tasting a new pasta recipe that she’s been perfecting is what makes me smile the most. She truly is humble about her talent, but I’m so proud of the grasp she has on understanding flour and water and how it makes amazing pasta. She’s addicted to making perfect pasta, while I continue my quest to find the perfect potato chip. (setteitalian.com) ▲
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ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
At Sette Italian, the pot roast risotto may make you lick the plate. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
ANTHONY’S PIZZERIA Located in historic Thornton Park in a breezy building with a Tuscan atmosphere, the café’s two dozen tables – inside and on the courtyard – are a comfortable spot to enjoy traditional Italian subs, pizzas and pasta entrees. 100 N. Summerlin Ave., 407-6480009, $$
ANTONIO’S RISTORANTE This Maitland mainstay has been around for nearly three decades but it’s better than ever, thanks to creative and artistically plated dishes courtesy of executive chef Patrick Tramontana. Long-stem artichokes wrapped in crispy prosciutto and stuffed with goat cheese are as magnificent to eat as they are to behold. Entrée masterpieces include the braised lamb shank served with Parmesansweet pea risotto and oak wood-grilled mutton snapper with mushroom risotto and basil-pesto crème fraîche. 611 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-645-5523, $$$
ANTONELLA’S PIZZERIA Pizza and pasta house run by the daughter
of noted Italian restaurateur Stefano LaCommare is small in stature but grand in flavor. Traditional staples like the meatball parm and eggplant rollatini are plates of comfort, while New York-style slices are perfectly textured for the fold-and-scarf set. Stay for the cannoli. Closed Mondays. 360 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-6365333, $$
ENZO’S HIDEAWAY Roman-Italian underground speakeasy is possibly the most un-Disney of Disney restaurants – hidden, moodily lit, Decostyled and inviting. Starters like the veg agrodolce and arancini-like suppli’ are worth nibbling on, as is complimentary focaccia baked with cherry tomatoes. Beef eaters will certainly get their fill from the bistecca pizzaiolo. Disney Springs, 1560 E. Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407560-3696, $$$$
ENZO’S ON THE LAKE Beautiful and sophisticated, the lakefront setting is as much of a draw as the culinary
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excellence of this Longwood mainstay. Along with the buzzing ambience comes occasional service pauses, but the kitchen makes up for them with Italian delicacies including fresh pasta and the best carpaccio in town. 1130 S. Highway 17-92, Longwood, 407-834-9872, $$$
F&D WOODFIRED ITALIAN KITCHEN Sister restaurant to Lake Mary’s F&D Kitchen & Bar and F&D Cantina, F&D Woodfired Italian Kitchen serves a menu of Neapolitan-style pizza and hearty pastas (using local noodle maestros Trevi) to the delight of residents in the Hourglass District. Notable dishes: yielding meatballs of Italian sausage and pangrattato; thin-ribboned cacio e pepe with Italian pork; and a wild mushroom pappardelle in a lovely porcini cream sauce. Desserts (grandma’s cake and tiramisu) are worth a look. 2420 Curry Ford Road, 407-751-5697, $$
IL PESCATORE Former owner Stefano LaCommare and family have moved on, but in this simple atmosphere their dishes live on, true Italian through and through. Seafood specialties make this bustling spot unique; pizza makes it family-friendly. Choosing between all the huge pasta entrees is pleasingly difficult, but we’re partial to the boscaiola. 651 N. Primrose Drive, 407-896-6763, $$
LAZY MOON PIZZA Size matters, and Lazy Moon delivers with astronomically huge slices. They also meet the needs of the broke with the Boxcar Willy special – a giant slice of cheese pizza and a PBR – but better beers by far are to be had: 15 beers on tap and almost 50 more by the bottle, plus cocktails in the new Mills 50 location. 11551 University Blvd., 407658-2396; also 1011 E. Colonial Drive, 407-412-6222; $
THE MEATBALL STOPPE Small Azalea Park eatery serves up (what else?) meatballs in six different varieties, which can be enjoyed three different ways – on top of a starch, smashed inside a ciabatta roll, or “alone” (over greens). 7325 Lake Underhill Road, 407-270-6505, $
MIDICI National chain brings proper Neapolitanstyle pies to the Maitland City Centre, and they’re every bit as legit as they claim. You can’t go wrong with a classic traditional margherita, and downing a whole 12-inch pie by yourself is very doable. Specialty pizzas are reluctantly offered in the “New York style” for those who want them, but they’re more filling – though every bit as delish. Calzones, like the Angus meatball and provolone, are gratifying pockets.
Open daily. 171 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-790-4527, $$
PIZZA BRUNO Arguably Orlando’s most popular and buzzed-about pizzeria entices with “neo-Neapolitan” pies: fermented dough and creative flavor combinations fired in a Ferrari-red Pavesi oven. Traditionalists can have a field day here, for sure, but the adventurous can enjoy such ingredients as hot honey, charred peaches, blueberries, maple syrup and the like on their fastblistered pizzas. Garlic knots with “too much garlic” are practically a must. 3990 Curry Ford Road, pizzabrunofl.com, $$
PRATO You might have to battle crowds to get a seat at this Park Avenue “it spot,” but once inside, the rustic Italian creations will justify the body-checking. Start with house-cured bresaola, then indulge in Bolognese bigoli enriched with foie gras butter or simple oven-roasted yellowtail snapper. Italian wine aficionados will swoon over the list. Valet parking. Open daily. 124 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-262-0050, $$
SAPORITO ORGANIC BAKERY & KITCHEN While the restaurant hews to the Slow Food ideology in the kitchen, nothing about the front-of-house service at Saporito is too leisurely. The breads, pizzas and desserts make it clear there are some master bakers here, and finding a true bacon-egg-andcheese carbonara is ecstasy-inducing. But what really makes Saporito Organic Bakery & Kitchen special is the owners’ relationships with their customers; this place feels like home. 2759 Old Winter Garden Road, Ocoee, 407-554-2100, $$
SETTE This Italian concept by Se7en Bites owners Va and Trina Gregory-Propst offers plenty of rustic bites and comfort, be it housemade pastas like one-noodle lasagna and mushroom pappardelle or addictive arancini and “pot roast” risotto. Desserts, expectedly, are of the epic variety. 1407 N. Orange Ave., 407-704-7771, $$$
TREVI PASTA College Park Italian market serves as a one-stop shop for fresh-made pasta, piadina, gelato and sundry Italian imports (think truffles). Pasta, however, is their prized possession with a variety of cuts, flavors and types from which to choose. Sauces are expertly fashioned, from simple pomodorobasilico to creamy numbers with portobello, porcini and prosciutto. The gelato case is always a popular gathering ground for kids and adults alike. 2120 Edgewater Drive, 407985-2577, $$
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ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
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Jasmeet Kaur and Pooja Patel Forever Naan 4205 Curry Ford Road
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Forever Naan’s charming 20-something proprietors, Pooja Patel (pictured above) and Jasmeet Kaur (quoted below), could’ve been operating a gas station had kismet not intervened and presented them with the vacant space on Curry Ford Road in which they opened Forever Naan. The small curry shop is very much like the ones they often visited while living in San Francisco. You don’t often see women-run Indian restaurants. How have you been accepted in the community of IndianAmericans? We have received a lot of appreciation from non-Indian customers and while Indian customers enjoy our food, we often find that our Indian community is not familiar with our casual concept, nor are they as easily accepting of what we’re doing here as we’re not conforming to cultural standards. We’re often asked questions about why we are in a “service” profession rather than something like nursing or law. We’ve even faced questions from our own families as to why we want to cook rather than sit at a desk. It’s almost as if what we’re doing is inferior to the professions we are expected to be in as Indian women, but I also think it has to do more with different cultural views.
As well as handling questions of identity within your Indian community, do you ever feel the need to compromise authenticity in order to satisfy a non-Indian palate? We do get people that request certain types of changes to the recipe and, while we are happy to make those changes for the individual, we don’t often adjust the overall taste of our dishes. We like to keep them as true to our original recipes as we can – that is, bold, spicy and authentic. How are you reducing food waste? We only buy what we need. It’s that’s simple. We cook everything fresh, so we go and buy what we need as if we’re cooking for our own home. And when we run out of food, we run out. We like this approach particularly because we create minimal waste. After five months in business, we are still adapting to trends and trying to figure out when the restaurant is busiest. For now, it’s working and it’s safe to say we rarely have to throw anything out. What was your first food addiction? We both love Indian street food. I would have to say mine is chole kulcha and Pooja’s would be samosa chaat. Everything just tastes better in street food format! (forevernaan.com) ▲
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INDIAN RESTAURANTS
Forever Naan chef Pooja Patel’s favorite snack, samosa chaat. (photo by Rob Bartlett)
BAWARCHI BIRYANIS Heady rice dishes are the star at this international chain specializing in biryanis. There are 20 to choose from, with the temper goat biryani being the most infernal and the Vijayawada special chicken biryani being one of the more complex. Don’t overlook Hakka specialties like gobi Manchurian and tongue-piercing chili pepper corn. Tandoor and South Indian dishes can also be had. Closed daily from 3-5 p.m. 6315 International Drive, 321-400-5998; $$
BOMBAY CAFÉ This sanctuary of South Indian fare gives Woodlands a run for its money with infernal vegetarian curries, enormous dosas and comforting flatbreads. Chaats (crunchy snack mixes) offer textural diversity with varying levels of heat. Lunch thalis are available Monday to Sunday. 1137 Doss Ave., 407240-5151; $
FOREVER NAAN From-scratch curries highlight this small Curry Ford Road curry shop, though the samosas, delicately fried and not thick-skinned, deserve praise as well. Coming soon is an expanded menu of Indian street snacks (think pani puri and kebab rolls) and vegan offerings. Closed Mondays and Saturdays. 4205 Curry Ford Road, 407-601-0835; $
KHASIYAT Most people come to this humble vegetarian hideaway for the cheap lunch buffet – wellstocked with five different curries – but the real star is the selection of savory Indian snacks. Can’t-miss offerings: enormous, not-at-allgreasy dosai masala and addictive bhel puri. Wash it all down with a Limca, the official soft drink of the subcontinent. 852 W. Lancaster Road, 407-888-2147; $
MOGHUL INDIAN CUISINE Tried-and-true standards define Moghul’s kitchen, especially superb chicken tikka and
seekh kebabs. Ghee-slicked peshawari naan are buttery, nutty and delightfully sweet wonders. Beware, hotheads: “Indian hot” is truly infernal. 401 N. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park; 407-599-9001; $$
MYNT FINE INDIAN CUISINE Understatedly elegant Indian joint unexpectedly located in Hannibal Square. There are plenty of sophisticated versions of the classics on the menu, ranging from fish to lamb to chicken and vegetarian dishes. Tandoori dishes come out in clay pots. The lamb vindaloo is infernal, but creamy, subtly sweet lamb pasanda makes for easier eating, along with flaky lacha paratha. 535 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-7055; $$$
SAFFRON INDIAN CUISINE West Sand Lakers get their fill of South Indian staples in this stylishly decorated space. Salmon seared on a hot stone and tandoori lamb chops marinated in ginger juice and rum are among the more noteworthy dishes in the sea of standards. 7724 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-674-8899; $$$
TAMARIND INDIAN CUISINE Tamarind’s familiar, fiery and focused dishes are worthy of subcontinental food cravings. Samosas and sizzling tandoor-fired lamb chops are the way to start; end with exotic falooda kulfi, ice cream made of condensed milk, rose syrup and crushed pistachios. 501 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-2070760; also 12309 E. Colonial Drive, 407237-0920; $$
WOODLANDS Pure vegetarian Southern Indian delicacies hit every part of the tongue with equal splendor. Go straight for the thali specials for a bit of everything, or savor Tamil specialties like enormous, crispy, masala-stuffed dosas. Closed Mondays. 6040 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-854-3330; $$
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Hakan Ogun Cafe 34 Istanbul 8255 International Drive
PHOTO BY ROB BARTLETT
Hakan Ogun came to the United States from Turkey as an IT professional, but after 15 years in the field, he followed his passion for food and cooking – a passion instilled as a young boy in his mother’s kitchen – by helping close friend Jack Davis develop the menu and market restaurant/hookah bar Cafe 34 Istanbul on International Drive. As an immigrant chef, do you feel the need to compromise authenticity in order to satisfy a broader palate? When we were coming up with the menu, the main goal was authenticity and freshness. But with only so many ingredients we could import from Turkey, we were limited with what we could offer our customers and had to compromise a little. I don’t know if it’s the soil or pH balance of the water, but locally grown Mediterranean
produce, like tomatoes and green peppers, just taste better. For example, we offer babaghanoush and shakshouka on our menu, but because the eggplants are just different here, the dishes just don’t taste the same. Over the years, we’ve found a close match to the eggplants we get in Turkey from local farmers here and I think we’re about 90 percent authentic as far as taste is concerned on both dishes. How are you reducing food waste? What are you doing to make the restaurant more sustainable? We purchase and use the ingredients for that day so there’s no waste. If we run out of a particular dish on the menu, then it’s done. We’re not going to make a second batch because we can’t! We’re also in the process of analyzing our energy consumption. What was your first food addiction? Definitely Turkish white rice with butter! (cafe34istanbul.com) ▲
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MEDITERRANEAN AND MIDDLE EASTERN
Ottoman Pleasure mixed kebab platter at Cafe 34 Istanbul (photo by Rob Bartlett)
BOSPHOROUS TURKISH CUISINE
Bosphorous serves delightful fare with many lamb-, eggplant- and yogurt-centered dishes. Not only is the food superb, it’s also a nice place to sit while smoking scented tobacco from their water pipes or enjoying a glass of Turkish wine. Multiple locations, bosphorousrestaurant.com; $$$
CEDAR’S RESTAURANT
Their spin on traditional Lebanese food has a lightness of texture and flavor that is both refreshing and inviting. Use the hot, puffy house-baked lavash bread to scoop up babaghanoush topped with pickled walnuts and fabulously crunchy kibbeh. Top off your meal with a hookah on the patio. 7732 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-351-6000, $$$
THE GREEK CORNER
The view of the downtown skyline is spectacular from this nook on Orange Avenue across from Lake Ivanhoe. Dining outside is a must, as is the hearty meze platter, with a sampling of enough Greek specialties – baked feta, gyro meat, braised lamb and traditional salads melitzanosalat and taramosalata – to satisfy the gods on Mount Olympus. 1600 N. Orange Ave., 407-228-0303, $$
MARAYA AT SABRINA’S RESTAURANT
This gem by the Florida Mall doesn’t compromise on quality, and that’s reflected in the prices. All ingredients are brought from Lebanon. Don’t miss the off-menu labneh (Lebanese cream cheese), chicken with whipped garlic sauce and transcendent falafel with tahini sauce. 8100 Crystal Clear Lane, 407-856-8155, $$$
MEDITERRANEAN BLUE
Familiar South Orlando Greek spot has been spruced up a bit and stocked with eco-friendly wares. The menu is deceptively simple, but nearly everything is a winner. The Provence sandwich is a delicious trip across the salty-savory spectrum, and falafel gets extra points for fresh, soft pita and housemade tzatziki sauce. 435 E. Michigan St., 407-422-2583, $$
MEDITERRANEAN DELI
An oasis of authenticity, complete with odd decorations, exhilaratingly exotic smells and hearty but inexpensive meals. You’ll find perfect hummus, superior kibbeh and superb gyros, not to mention one of the best spinach pies around. A top spot to eat for $10 or less. 981 W. Fairbanks Ave., 407-539-2650, $
OH MY GYRO!
Family-run eatery in Longwood follows in the food-cart tracks of NYC’s Halal Guys offering platters of yellow turmeric-tinged rice with chicken, gyro, and falafel along with pita bits, salad, and a drizzle of the requisite white sauce (an infernal red sauce is also offered on the side). 1150 W. State Road 434, Longwood, 407-960-4496, $
SHIRAZ MARKET
Some mighty fine kebabs can be had at this Persian market and eatery in Longwood. Of note are ground beef koobideh kebabs, chicken kebabs of thigh and breast meat, and ghormeh sabzi, an herbaceous stew. Peruse the shelves of spices, oils and pickles, then make your way to the freezers for frozen desserts (get a tub of faloodeh and bastani). A display case of sweets is hard to overlook – grab a few Persian cream puffs to take home. 185 S. Ronald Reagan Blvd., Longwood, 407-951-8084; $
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delicious events
hosted by Orlando Weekly TACOS & TEQUILA
July 20, 2019 | Cheyenne Saloon & Church Street, 128 W. Church St., tacosandtequilaorlando.com Tacos & Tequila is Orlando’s biggest event celebrating the city’s latest, tastiest creative culinary creation: TACOS. Sample & vote on your favorite among competing food trucks, taco shops & restaurants.
ORLANDO TACO WEEK
Sept. 20-29, 2019 | multiple restaurants, orlandoweekly.com Similar to this year’s exceedingly successful Orlando Burger Week, multiple restaurants around town offer up special creative taco recipes at bargain prices for you to enjoy. Try to taste ’em all!
BIG GAY BRUNCH
Oct. 12, 2019 | The Abbey, 100 S. Eola Drive, biggaybrunchorlando.com Sponsored by the Omelet Bar and Orlando Immunology Center, Big Gay Brunch is the perfect way to kick off downtown’s Come Out With Pride celebration, with an amazing brunch spread, bottomless mimosas and Bloody Marys, plus DJs and surprises to get you in the mood for the parade.
ORLANDO BEER FESTIVAL
Nov. 16, 2019 | Festival Park, 2911 E. Robinson St., orlandobeerfestival.com The largest craft beer festival in Orlando features literally
hundreds of different craft beers from local and regional breweries, a wine and whiskey tasting experience, incredible live music, an adult play zone, food trucks and much more, making this the beer festival of the year!
SWEET & SAVORY
Dec. 5, 2019 | Location TBD Sip seasonal drinks including ciders, stouts, porters, cafe de olla, champurrado, spiked hot cocoa, hot toddies, teas, candy-rimmed cocktails and coffee. Feast on delights from Orlando’s best chocolatiers, bakeries and patisseries. Satisfy your sweet tooth with treats like macarons, churros, cookies, cakes, donuts, milkshakes, ice cream and more!
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Notes
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Notes DATE: RESTAURANT: OCCASION: COMPANIONS: BEST DISH:
DATE: RESTAURANT: OCCASION: COMPANIONS: BEST DISH:
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