Orlando Weekly Bite 2017

T H E ULTI M ATE G U I D E TO O R L A N D O ’ S FOOD SCENE | FREE 2 017

W I N T E R PA R K FISH CO. MAHI AND SW E E T CHEDDAR GRITS W I T H CAJUN LOBSTER GRAVY

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Publisher Graham Jarrett Editor Jessica Bryce Young Editorial Staff Writer Monivette Cordeiro Calendar Editor Thaddeus McCollum Music Editor Matthew Moyer Digital Content Editor Colin Wolf Contributors Rob Bartlett, Abby Stassen

Spring tartine from osprey tavern

Butter chicken taco from Pig Floyds

editor’s letter

Next, commit to keeping up with the national trends – like upscale dining at the arena (page 17) and amenity-

After years of hard work by local chefs, restaurateurs, heavy grocerants (page 25). publicists and writers, Orlando is finally that vaunted

Last, think about what Orlando means to you –

thing: a food city. The accolades have poured in

what do you taste when you think of your favorite

from the New York Times, Washington Post, Wall

local dish? We asked some local tastemakers what

Street Journal, USA Today, Travel and Leisure, New

Orlando’s signature dish ought to be (page 15), and

York magazine, Eater, Zagat and countless blogs and

we interviewed the principals of 15 restaurants setting

websites.

the pace in Orlando right now to find out: Why are you

So now what?

here? Why do you stay? The answers are endless, but

Now that everyone’s looking at us, it’s time to do

the love is universal. They, and we, are here to stay.

a few things. First, give ourselves a pat on the back

—Jessica Bryce Young, editor in chief

– and give props to those who have gotten us here.

People like Kevin Fonzo, recipient of our very first BITE Award; check page 13 if you aren’t already aware of how very deserving he is. Take a look at page 18 for the

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jessica Bryce Young WRITERS Faiyaz Kara, Holly V. Kapherr PHOTOGRAPHER Robert Bartlett DESIGNER Chris Tobar Rodriguez

six annual food and drink festivals hosted by Orlando Weekly, which sell out every year. Kvell over our firstrate local doughnuts, kombucha and taco variations on pages 19, 20 and 21.

13 ORLANDO WEEKLY BITE

AWARD We’re proud to present our inaugural BITE Award to chef Kevin Fonzo.

features

15 TASTE OF THE CITY

28 OFF-MENU, ON-POINT

Don’t jump at the first thing you see – always ask for the secret menu 30 FOODIE DISTRICT FACE-OFF

It’s a tale of two neighborhoods as we pit Mills 50 versus I-Drive

We asked a dozen local tastemakers what Orlando’s signature dish should be

chefs + restaurants

17 GAME FACE

Colombian, Cuban, Mexican, Peruvian, Puerto Rican, Tex-Mex

What and where to eat when you’re taking in some sportsball 18 FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS

Save the date! A calendar for foodies 19 TACOS DE TODO

Tacos are king, but plenty of Orlando’s hottest spots put a new spin on the old favorite 20 SCOBY SNACKS

We’re feeling bubbly about local kombucha 21 DRIVING FOR DOUGHNUTS

So many good ones, all so far away

25 THE RISE OF THE GROCERANT

Wait, what the @!#$ is a grocerant?

27 NO MENU REQUIRED

Got terminal indecision? Sit back and let the chef drive

Advertising Director of Sales Jeff Kruse Major Accounts Specialist Leslie Egan Senior Multimedia Account Executives Debbie Garcia, Lori Green, Dan Winkler Multimedia Account Executives Scott Navarro, Scott Spar Classified and Legal Rep Jerrica Schwartz Advertising Coordinator Danielle Lebron

33 LATIN + MEXICAN

37 HEALTHY RESTAURANTS

Vegan, vegetarian, mostly plantbased, juice bars

63 AMERICAN TRADITIONAL

Comfort-food classics given the deluxe treatment 67 MEDITERRANEAN + MIDDLE

EASTERN RESTAURANTS Greek, Lebanese, Persian, Syrian, Turkish 71 CASUAL RESTAURANTS

Coffeehouses and teahouses

Chinese, Japanese, Sushi, Korean, Pan-Asian, Thai, Vietnamese

Euclid Media Group Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers hris Keating, Michael Wagner Human Resources Director Lisa Beilstein Digital Operations Coordinator Jaime Monzon euclidmediagroup.com National Advertising: Voice Media Group 1-888-278-9866, voicemediagroup.com Orlando Weekly Inc. 16 W. Pine St. Orlando, Florida 32801 orlandoweekly.com Phone 407-377-0400 Fax 407-377-0420

Orlando Distribution Orlando Weekly is available free of charge, limited to one copy per reader.

French, German, Spanish

79 INDIAN RESTAURANTS

83 STEAKHOUSES

87 SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS

Shells, fins and scales

91 PUBS, WINE BARS +

TAPROOMS Places where the food is just as compelling as the drink

55 SWEETS

95 SPECIALTY MARKETS

Cupcakes, doughnuts, cookies, ice cream and pie

Circulation Circulation Manager Collin Modeste

75 EUROPEAN RESTAURANTS

49 ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

Some specialize in pizza, some don’t

Business Operations Manager Hollie Mahadeo Business Assistant Allysha Willison

Orlando Weekly is published every week by Euclid Media Group

Meat, glorious meat 43 ASIAN RESTAURANTS

Creative Services Art Director Chris Tobar Rodriguez Production Lead Designer Melissa McHenry Graphic Designer Daniel Rodriguez, Ian Jones

Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, tacos

Specialties of the subcontinent 40 COFFEE + TEA

Marketing and Events Events Director Zackary Rowe Events and Promotions Manager Brad Van De Bogert Marketing and Events Coordinator Rachel Hoyle

Where to find that special something

59 MODERN RESTAURANTS

A creative spin on the plate, with a focus on local ingredients and innovative technique

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Copyright notice: The entire contents of Orlando Weekly are copyright 2017 by Euclid Media Group LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. Publisher does not assume any liability for unsolicited manuscripts, materials, or other content. Any submission must include a stamped, self-addressed envelope. All editorial, advertising, and business correspondence should be mailed to the address listed above.

Subscriptions: Additional copies or back issues may be purchased at the Orlando Weekly offices for $1. Sixmonth domestic subscriptions may be purchased for $75; one-year subscriptions for $125.

Periodical Postage Pending at Orlando, FL POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ORLANDO WEEKLY 16 W. Pine St. Orlando, FL 32801.

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$$$$ $$$$ $$$$ $$$$

$10 OR LESS $10-15 $15-25 $25 OR MORE

**The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree.

Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person.

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KEVIN FONZO ORLANDO WEEKLY BITE AWARD, 2017

In recognition of his outstanding contributions to the local culinary community, Orlando Weekly is pleased to announce the recipient of our inaugural BITE Award: Chef Kevin Fonzo.

H

e might be a New York City native, but chef Kevin Fonzo has been in an Orlando state of mind for nearly three decades. After graduating with honors from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Fonzo was part of the opening team at the Peabody Hotel on International Drive, and was quickly promoted to chef of the hotel’s Italian concept, Capriccio.

After a six-year run at the Peabody, Fonzo moved to Atlanta and worked at highly lauded restaurants Bistango and Ciboulette before returning to Orlando in 2001, when he purchased Cafe Allegre in College Park and changed the name to K Restaurant and Wine Bar. K became one of Orlando’s first chef-owned and operated restaurants, and Fonzo used it as a platform to showcase local ingredients and a daily changing menu. In 2007, Fonzo and his family purchased a second College Park restaurant and named it Nonna Trattoria ed Enoteca. He then decided to merge the two restaurants, which allowed him to focus energies on one restaurant, and to invest further in the community.

In 2010, Fonzo was nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef South and he has since been invited numerous times to cook at the prestigious Beard House in New York.

Always a staunch supporter of local farms and food sources, Fonzo is now focused on educating the youth of the city on sustainability, nutrition and food preparation through his Edible Education Experience at the Orlando Junior Academy. Fonzo volunteers his time at the Orlando Junior Academy in College Park and, during the 2010-2011 school year, worked in the cafeteria every day preparing lunches, while fostering a food

farming program at the school, which was awarded “Best School Garden for the State of Florida” by the University of Central Florida.

Fonzo’s work was also recognized by Michelle Obama as a part of her “Chefs Move to School” initiative, earning him an invitation to the White House. He now volunteers his time as an educator using cooking instruction as an integrated educational method for students to learn about nutrition, biology, chemistry and math, as well as the discipline necessary for a successful culinary career.

In 2017, the Emeril Lagasse Kitchen House & Culinary Garden, a partnership between Fonzo, Orlando Junior Academy, Florida Hospital for Children and the Emeril Lagasse Foundation, opened to Orlando.

“As long as I’ve lived in Orlando, Kevin Fonzo’s restaurants have been my go-to for seasonal, sustainable, celebratory meals,” Orlando Weekly editor Jessica Bryce Young says. “Not only is the food on the plate outstanding, it’s gratifying to know such a good heart underpins his technical skill.”

“Ten years ago, I approached Kevin about starting Orlando Restaurant Week. Without hesitation, he was the first on board.

Four years ago, I approached him again about re-concepting Restaurant Week to Bite30 and adding a chef showcase, Bite Night. He not only signed on immediately, he reached out to other high-profile chefs and got them involved,” says Orlando Weekly publisher Graham Jarrett. “If it’s good for the restaurant community, for the food scene, or just good for Orlando, Kevin finds a way to do it. Beyond his culinary skills, Kevin Fonzo is a true value to our community. He has not only achieved personal success and accolades, he has helped foster a community that has made Orlando one of the best up-and-coming food cities in the country.”

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THE TASTE OF THE CITY

There’s a movement afoot among some tourism and restaurant industry folk to name a “signature dish” for Orlando. Rock shrimp, stone crab and grouper sandwiches belong to the coast; Key lime pie to the Keys. So what does that leave for the City Tasteful – gator tail? Thanks, but nah.

So we asked a few trendsetters around town: If it were completely up to you, what would Orlando’s signature dish be? Some got saucy, but some took it seriously.

Here’s what they had to say.

Mark Baratelli

Ricky Ly

Hari Pulapaka

Owner, the Daily City Food Truck Bazaar “Our county has a very rich street food culture with some excellent food trucks run by professional local owners. If you come to Orlando you must get a taco from Tako Cheena, the Hula Hula chicken from Over Rice and an ice cream sandwich from Midnight Sun ice cream truck.”

Owner, Tasty Chomps Food Blog; civil engineer “I would vote for the King’s Feast at King Cajun Crawfish: boiled shrimp, crawfish, potatoes and corn all in a spicy sha-bang sauce. It’s Southern but with a Vietnamese twist – garlic, butter, spices and slices of citrusy orange and lemon – a humble dish with a lot of culture and kick, just like Orlando.”

Chef, Cress Restaurant; mathematician; sustainability advocate “Not-from-Florida, citrus-cured, don’tknow-where-this-fish-came-from served with roasted squash delivered from a big truck, Mexican-grown cilantro, and offseason, heavily subsidized corn.”

Emily Ellyn Food Network Star, Cupcake Warrior and Cutthroat Kitchen champ “Mamma feels we need to let that dish simmer a bit. As proud as I am of this big melting pot of a food city, we really don’t have our own dish yet.

Something like that needs to evolve organically.”

Matt Heafy Guitarist and lead vocalist, Trivium “Cuban bánh mì served with red beans and rice. Bam! Cuban. Vietnamese.

Caribbean/Haitian. That’s pretty representative of Orlando.”

Greg Richie Chef, Soco; partner, Thornton Park Restaurant Group “It seems to me that most regions that have a ‘signature dish’ have come by it organically. I think it’ll be challenging to conjure one up for Central Florida by design, but I think we can all agree that meatloaf is something most everyone can love. And who has better meatloaf than Soco, really?”

Art Smith Chef, Art Smith’s Homecomin’; author “Turkey leg from Disney. I think sheer volume wins out.”

Norman Van Aken Chef, Norman’s and 1921 by Norman Van Aken; author; bon vivant “Magic mushroom mousse!”

Matthew Peddie

Scott Maxwell Orlando Sentinel columnist “I’ve always said Orlando is a crock pot of cultures. So I reckon I’d go with that – a crock pot stew filled with mojito pork, gator sausage and Fleet-Farmed veggies, all served over an authentic Florida Cracker biscuit.”

Host of “Intersection,” WMFE-FM “Does Orlando have a signature dish?

No. But if I were to pick one food item that I associate with the City Beautiful, it would be the bánh mì. Pork, pâté, lime, cilantro, cucumber, jalapeños … jammed into a baguette. It’s a beautiful collision of flavors, somewhat like the mélange of cultures in Orlando. Plus you can eat it with one hand – perfect for driving on I-4.”

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GAME FACE:

WHAT AND WHERE TO EAT WHEN YOU’RE TAKING IN SOME SPORTSBALL

Typically, we’d advise dining before you dash out to see the Lions, Solar Bears or Magic — paying $12 for a Bud Light is a drag. But if you must eat and imbibe at the event, make a beeline for these in-house restaurants, kiosks and counters once they’ve scanned your ticket. —HVK DINE

NOSH

IMBIBE

Ballgames aren’t exactly where you’d think to find fine dining, but Jernigan’s Restaurant inside the Amway Center is just that. Make a reservation on the Amway Center website and be treated to a prix fixe meal in style while you watch our boys shoot threes. On the northwest corner of the Amway Center, where Church and Division meet, is Magic Grill, open before and during all games, concerts and other ticketed events; guaranteed, a giant burger at a comfy high-top in front of a giant flat screen is better than eating in the nosebleed seats. The Audi Sport Club at Orlando City Stadium is where season ticket holders can upgrade to a VIP experience – Kaká jersey and handshake not included. For the upgrade, you get unlimited domestic beer, plus carving stations, a charcuterie bar and upscale hors d’oeuvres.

Among the 12 permanent concession stands at the Orlando City Stadium, you’re going to want to head straight for the Cuban Bowls stand. Yellow rice is topped with adobo-marinated pulled roast pork, black beans and marinated tomatoes.

Or top your bowl with picadillo (spiced ground beef with olives and raisins).

Some of your favorite Orlando-area nosh pits opened stadium-sized versions of themselves in the Amway Center, so if you’re not cool with the uncertainty of something new, head for the old standbys: Bento Sushi and Black Bean Deli have kiosks on the Terrace level, and you can find Gringos Locos on both the Terrace and Promenade levels. Double Ds, anyone?

While the Amway Center does have full liquor bars on each level, the soccer stadium has the edge on cocktails – the Mason jar cocktails on the east end of the OC Lions’ home are worth the hefty price tag. The Kingston, named after the club mascot, is a combination of whiskey, vermouth, sherry, and chocolate and orange bitters. Still feeling like a winner after that loss? One80 Skytop Lounge at the Amway Center is where true ballers go to make it rain. This spot has the best skyline view in town, so we suggest stealing away before the game to catch the sunset reflecting off the SunTrust building while sipping a vodka martini.

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DELICIOUS EVENTS HOSTED BY ORLANDO WEEKLY

Tacos & Tequila July 15, 2017 | Cheyenne Saloon & Church Street, 128 W. Church St. | tacosandtequilaorlando.com Tacos & Tequila is Orlando’s first ever event celebrating the city’s latest, tastiest, creative culinary creation: TACOS. Sample & vote on your favorite among competing food trucks, taco shops & restaurants.

Big Gay Brunch Oct. 14, 2017 | The Abbey, 100 S. Eola Drive | orlandoweekly.com Before the Orlando Pride parade, come eat and drink with us and check out surprise performances.

Orlando Beer Festival Nov. 11, 2017 | Festival Park, 2911 E. Robinson St. | orlandobeerfestival.com Featuring 200 different craft beers from local and regional breweries, a wine and whiskey tasting experience, incredible live music, an adult play zone, food trucks and so much more, making this the beer festival of the year!

Orlando Chili Cook-off Feb. 17, 2018 | Festival Park, 2911 E. Robinson St. | orlandochilicookoff.com This event brings the heat with more than 100 different types of chili to sample, the World Chili Eating Championship competition, live music and more.

United We Brunch March 2018 | The Orchid Garden, 126 W. Church St. | brunch.orlandoweekly.com Orlando’s best breakfast and brunch spots come together to offer an array of delicious tastes paired with unlimited mimosas and Bloody Marys.

Whiskey Business April 2018 | Cheyenne Saloon, 128 W. Church St. | whiskeybusinessorlando.com At this upscale and sophisticated event, guests have the opportunity to sample their way across continents to discover the best scotches, bourbons and whiskeys and take their taste buds on an exploration of wheat and rye.

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Tacos de Todo

Mexican food – both upscale and casual – is definitely having its day. In just about a year, ciudad Orlando has gone from sporting chain Tex-Mex and hole-in-the-wall taquerías, with little middle ground, to flaunting innovative and authentic Mexican cuisine at all price points. And the buzz is undeniable.

Tacos are king, of course, but plenty of Orlando’s hottest spots put a new spin on the old favorite. —HVK

The Taste of Yucatan The Semoran Boulevard standalone features all sorts of traditional dishes from the Yucatan peninsula, but the Mayan ancestor of tacos, called salbutes, are a must-try. The handmade corn tortillas puff in the deep fryer and then are topped with onion and avocado, plus your choice of protein – cochinita pibil strongly suggested.

1375 S. Semoran Blvd., 407-704-2248; thetasteofyucatan.com

Black Rooster Taqueria Sopes are open-faced tacos with toppings perched on a crispy corn masa cake, thicker than a tortilla.

The Mills 50 taquería has a rotating selection of sopes; we’re partial to the house-made beef-and-pork meatball dressed with pinto beans, queso fresco, black mole, pickled cabbage, peanut and cilantro.

1323 N. Mills Ave., 407-601-0994; blackroostertaqueria.com

Tako Cheena While we patiently wait for the new location down the street to open, we’ll munch on one of the innovative flavor folds Edgardo Guzman’s team has dreamt up.

Late-night patrons scarf the spicysweet Korean beef taco, filled with bulgogi, kimchi and cilantro.

932 N. Mills Ave., 407-757-0626, also 4241 N. John Young Parkway; mytakocheena.com

Pig Floyd’s Urban Barbakoa

Hunger Street Tacos

Two words here inspire fervor – butter chicken. The vibrant orange Indian stew is a flavor-full fat bomb, and when stuffed into a flour tortilla with basmati rice, pickled jalapeños, toasted pepitas and a cooling dollop of crema, the combination is spicy, soft, savory and sweet all at once.

1326 N. Mills Ave., 407-203-0866; also 9680 Narcoossee Road, 407-730-7376; pigfloyds.com

Hibiscus flowers – known as jamaica (pronounced ha-mai-kah) – are a popular ingredient in central Mexico, especially in Mexico City, where tart, fuchsia hibiscus tea and aguas frescas are peddled in every bodega. Luckily, Florida is full of the flowers too, and Hunger Street Tacos in Winter Park has embraced this dual citizen for their guacamole and hibiscus flower taco. It’s a conversation starter.

2103 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 321-444-6270; hungerstreettacos.com

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SCOBY SNACKS Kombucha may not be Orlando’s favorite fizz yet, but trust: Its popularity is about to bubble over. Health fanatics love the fermented beverage for its probiotics and other healthful properties; foodies like the sweet-and-sour tang that offers a whole new palette of flavors to paint with (hello, cocktails).

The beverage is made by allowing tea and sugar to ferment until a thick leathery layer called a SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast) forms over the top. The yeast eats up the sugar and leaves behind delicious carbonation and active bacterial cultures – the good kind. Fruit or herbal flavors are added in the second fermentation.

Local ’booch specialist Humble Bumble, whose product has been snapped up around town since they started brewing, has even opened up their own freestanding store in Ivanhoe Village, making and selling their brew alongside baked goods and coffee.

It’s enough to make you wanna pop with pride. —JBY Humble Bumble Kombucha, 1231 N. Orange Ave., 407-694-4131, humblebumblekombucha.com

POP OFF! More local kombucha: Skyebird at East End Market is known for cold-pressed juices, but their starfruit kombucha is as light and delicately fizzy as champagne.

Living Vitalitea’s lemon-turmeric blend will knock a cold out of you, but it’s the most delicious medicine you’ll ever taste. And Mark Bevilaqua, one of the O.G. ’booch-brewers in Orlando, recently made a deal to sell his Farm Boy Produce kombucha on tap at all Florida locations of Lucky’s Market. Catch his brilliant-red strawberry kombucha when that fruit’s in season; find all of these brews at broad-minded establishments throughout Orlando.

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DRIVING FOR DOUGHNUTS We dream of the day when indie gourmet donut shops are as plentiful as Dunkins in this city, but until then we’ll have to keep catching them where we can: food trucks, far-flung shops and pop-up markets. —JBY

Bakery Plus This hard-working little Sodo bakery just off Michigan Street serves doughnuts and pastry of unparalleled quality. Guess that’s what happens when you do it for as long as they have. Don’t miss the Fruity Pebbles-topped glazed yeast.

915 E. Michigan St.

DG Doughnuts Damned good, obviously. The familyowned food truck recently made the leap to brick-and-mortar inside a Chevron station (with a drive-through window; they also offer delivery) wayyyy out west on Colonial. They’re still frying up small-batch classics like lemonblueberry and coconut cream.

16131 W. Colonial Drive, Oakland

Donut King If you really want a drive, check out their Clermont store, but the Donut King closest to us, on Howell Branch in Winter Park, is far enough. Classics like Boston cream, coconut flake and powdered-sugar jelly sit in the case with more outré flavors like maple-bacon, Oreo and Heath Bar. 3716 Howell Branch Road, Winter Park

Donuts to Go DTG does great things with fruit, as evidenced by their Key lime, apple pie and strawberry cheescake doughnuts, but purists swear by their square-cut glazed yeast version. And yes, they do cronuts.

1414 W. First St., Sanford

Joy Donuts The moist, light, fluffy cake doughnuts served from the little pink truck will make a believer out of raised-yeast doughnut loyalists. Try the blueberry dip or the vanilla crack and see.

Intersection of 441 and Wolf Branch Road, Mount Dora

Little Blue Donut Co. The truck roams mainly in the Windermere/Winter Garden/Lake Nona wilds, but can also be found at some Daily City Food Truck Bazaars and Tasty Tuesday events. The peanut-butter cup, Samoa (like the Girl Scout cookie) and salted caramel doughnuts will make your heart – and your fillings – sing. facebook.com/littlebluedonuttruck

Orlandough Doughnut obsessive Liz Doerr stopped reviewing dunkers and started making her own, turning her Orlandough blog into a craft doughnut biz by the same name.

Find her at the College Park Farmers Market on Saturdays or order by email. orlandough.co

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Lucky’s Market

THE RISE

OF

THE GROCERANT

You’ll never shop on an empty stomach again.

(Wait, what the @!#$ is a grocerant?)

First things first: “Grocerant” is a nifty little portmanteau combining grocery and restaurant. Whether you’ve heard the word before or not, doubtless you’ve noticed the inviting areas newer supermarkets have set up in which to enjoy their prepared foods: trendy tables and chairs, wi-fi, a constellation of condiments on demand. A market research study by the NPD Group found that in-store dining and takeout of prepared foods accounted for $10 billion of consumer spending in 2015, driven by millennials who rate grocerants higher than quick-serve restaurants on variety and healthfulness. Market research aside, no one can deny that stopping for a quick bite before hitting the aisles can prevent junk food from hopping into the basket, though carts equipped with pint-glass holders (like at Lucky’s Market) might put beer goggles on your grocery list, so shop carefully. —JBY cream and the signature hot and cold bars crammed with global cuisine.

1030 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-377-6040, wholefoodsmarket.com

Publix at Winter Park Village

Whole Foods Winter Park Both WFMs in town, the new one in Winter Park and the one on Turkey Lake, have eat-in options, but the newly opened store on Orlando Avenue at Lee Road takes your options to new heights, so bring your laptop, an appetite and mad decisionmaking skills. Options include: wood-fired pizza, sushi burritos, cold-pressed juice, mochi ice

Fresh off an expansion that added the new Publix Aprons Cooking School (we urge you to sign up for a class – they’re fun!), this flagship store’s aim is to make sure your two-birds, one-stone trip is worth every mile. Visit the Chinese takeout bar that also features sushi and noodle bowls, the prepared foods counter, or the new Starbucks Coffee. If you’re an early-morning shopper, don’t miss the mojo pork breakfast burrito from the deli.

440 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-1204; publix.com

Lucky’s Market If we could come up with a catchy term for a grocery-barrestaurant, Lucky’s would fall in that category. Every cart has a cup holder meant for a beer cup (in-store sip-and-shopping only). The chain’s roots are in Colorado, so this should come as no surprise. The market is filled with Lucky’s branded treats, too – it’s like a boozy Trader Joe’s.

11750 E. Colonial Drive, 321-354-1435; luckysmarket.com

The Local Market & Butcher The marquee still says “The Meat House,” but this Winter Park store is in the midst of a rebranding. Since opening, the butcher shop has transformed from selling just specialty meats and some local nonperishables

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to a veritable one-room food hall with the addition of a poke counter by Da Kine, a bakery and coffee counter, and a sandwich section, plus outdoor seating.

669 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-6328; themeathouse.com

Canvas Market When this Tavistock-owned restaurant opened, Lake Nonians rejoiced to have a scratch-kitchen restaurant and market under one roof.

The restaurant is sporting a new menu these days, and the market – stuffed full of an Anthropologie store’s worth of quirky-cute housewares and kitchen goods, serves breakfast, light lunches, wine and smoothies.

13615 Sachs Ave., 407-313-7800; canvaslakenona.com

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Urbain 40

NO MENU REQUIRED

Kabooki Sushi

To those of us who break into a sweat, offer to go last, and hope our dining partners have umpteen questions to ask before the server reaches us and asks for our decision, anyone who doesn’t have a hard time making a decision when it comes time to talk to the server is suspect. There’s one way to completely circumvent this crisis: chef’s tables. These menuless dinners eliminate diningrelated decision-making altogether, instead showcasing the whim of the chef. Here’s where stressed-out eaters can sit down and just let the food flow. —HVK

Urbain 40

Luma on Park

OMAKASE: THE RAW STORY

Chef Tim Keating isn’t yet quite sure what he’s going to do with the existing in-kitchen chef’s table at his new Dr. Phillips digs. We’re hoping he’ll turn it into a super-exclusive spot where his more “urbane” dishes can shine – see what we did there?

8000 Via Dellagio Way, 407-872-2640, urbain40.com

The Bentleys parked just outside might make your wallet quake, but for the seven to nine courses you can expect, Luma’s famous chef’s table is actually a bargain.

Expect to be surprised, but only pleasantly – the menu is seasonal but takes diners’ preferences into account.

290 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-5994111, lumaonpark.com

Chef’s Table at the Edgewater

Victoria & Albert’s

You can just walk in and eat at the Tasting Room in front of the restaurant, but the truly special stuff goes on in the back.

Make a reservation for the three-course prix fixe dinner paired with wine. Don’t scrimp; you’ll want the pan-seared foie gras covered in blueberry-lavender gastrique.

99 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, 407-230-4837, chefstableattheedgewater.com

If you’re popping the question or turning 40 or celebrating something equally spectacular, you can’t do much better than the chef’s table at Vicky & Al’s. James Beard-nominated chef Scott Hunnel will personally cook and serve your seven- to 10-course meal, with prices ranging from $250 to $355 per person with wine. There is a vegetarian option, too.

Disney’s Grand Floridian, 4401 Floridian Way, 407-939-3862, victoria-alberts.com

Desperate to offer diners something beyond bento boxes and outrageous custom sushi rolls, the success of Jiro Dreams of Sushi inspired many local Japanese restaurants to embrace the omakase – literally “chef’s whim.”

Morimoto Asia at Disney Springs offers the experience alongside executive chef and sushi savant Yuhi Fujinaga and runs $150 per person. Worth it, especially since there’s a chance the Iron Chef himself might be in-house (he loves Disney).

Kabooki Sushi on Colonial Drive isn’t anything to look at from the outside, but the creations coming from the counter are stunners. Henry Moso’s creations are nothing short of theatrical – appropriate considering the restaurant’s moniker.

Japanese visitors to Orlando generally seek out one of two ultra-authentic spots in town near the attractions, Hanamizuki and Sushitomi. If you’re lucky, you’ll be handed a modest slab of otoro, the fattiest underbelly of the tuna.

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OFF-MENU, ON POINT Don’t just settle for what’s right in plain sight, whether it’s on the wall or in the first menu they hand you. At some of Orlando’s restaurants, both the elegant and the everyday, options extend beyond what’s posted (think In-N-Out Burger’s “animal style”) and all you have to do is ask. As notorious foodlover Biggie Smalls put it, if you don’t know, now you know.

TRUE TAIWANESE

TA-TA-TACOS

BELLY BUSTER

SECRET SAMMIES

COOL HAND LUKE’S

Named after the supertall skyscraper in Taiwan, Taipei 101 is an East Orlando landmark for Taiwanese cuisine. The secret: You’ve gotta ask for the menu filled with authentic street food from the island. The stir-fried glass noodles with pork are downright addictive.

3050 Alafaya Trail, Oviedo, 407-542-1528; taipei101orlando.com

Late-night mainstay Gringos Locos is known for its queso-stuffed “Double Ds” – hard-shell tacos enrobed by a soft tortilla slathered with cheese sauce. If you ask nicely, you can increase the cup size to Triple Ds, and add yet another flour tortilla (and more queso) to those buxom bites.

22 E. Washington St., 407-841-5626; also 2406 E. Robinson St., 407-896-5626; gringoslocos.com

If there aren’t enough killer combos of smoked meat and sides on the 4 Rivers Smokehouse menus for you, ask for the “Belly Buster,” an off-menu hot dog topped with pulled pork, cheese, coleslaw, jalapeños and sweet barbecue sauce.

Multiple locations, 4rsmokehouse.com

There’s plenty to love about Teak Neighborhood Grill’s upscale-casual fare – especially the full Bloody Mary menu on weekends.

But there’s more to the menu than first glance would suggest. The standard menu lists 16 burgers, but there are 19 – yes, 19 – more. You just have to ask.

6400 Time Square Ave., 407-313-5111; teakorlando.com

Maitland newcomer Luke’s Kitchen and Bar, helmed by Luma chef Brandon McGlamery, sports an unadvertised land and sea “reserve card” full of top-notch items like a USDA Prime bone-in ribeye, swordfish and wagyu beef.

Forewarned: These hushhush delicacies don’t come cheap.

640 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-674-2400; eatatlukes.com

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FOODIE DISTRICT FACE-OFF:

MILLS 50 VS I-DRIVE Both neighborhoods are packed with restaurants, but which you choose has a lot to do with what you’re craving – hyperlocal flavor on the cheap or cha-ching! pampering. To the north, there’s Mills 50, a haven for mom-and-pop ventures, international eats and the hottest spots to find nom-nomnirvana on a dime. To the south, International Drive has transformed itself from a tourist trap to avoid into a restaurant hub worth frequenting, especially on an expense account. —HVK

MILLS 50 BAO CHICKA WOW You can eat an amazing dinner for less than $10 at King Bao. Two pillowy riceflour buns stuffed with Korean fried chicken, braised pork belly or lobster plus a soft drink will only set you back about seven bucks.

NEW + OLD If there’s one place on the Mills 50 strip for a fancy dinner, it’s The Strand.

The pocket-sized restaurant and bar specializes in small-batch classic comfort food with a contemporary twist, so it’s not too far outside the comfort zone for less adventurous diners. The waitstaff will steer you to a killer bottle of wine within your budget.

PHO SHO’ Sometimes only soup will do. Good thing Pho 88 has 40 different ones to choose from, all served in giant bowls with your choice of accoutrement – thai basil, bean sprouts, jalapeño slices and lime wedges.

Vietnamese parents all swear by a big bowl of bun bo hue, a steaming, lava-red bowl of beef and noodles, for whatever ails you.

A LITTLE OF A LOT When chef and TV host Andrew Zimmern came to Orlando, he couldn’t say enough

good things about Hawkers Asian Street Fare. Same goes for the small plates at Mamak Asian Street Food. At these two Mills 50 restos, it’s encouraged to order a bunch of things and order progressively from the menu until you’ve reached your desired satiety.

BANGIN’ BANH CUON It’s a tiny, tucked-away Southeast Asian spot on the south side of the street, but Vietnam Cuisine has killer banh cuon – slippery rice crepes folded over pork and shrimp – that belie the humble digs. Get you some with a Vietnamese iced coffee to shake off that hangover.

SUM-THING GOOD There’s no rule that says Saturday and Sunday mornings are just for bacon and eggs; Mills 50 folk go for dim sum instead.

Sit down at Lam’s Garden, Chan’s Chinese Cuisine or Ming’s Bistro – after you’ve waited in line a bit – to feast on dumplings, chicken feet and roasted pork.

HOT, HOT HEAT Orlando’s only authentic Sichuan-style restaurant, Chuan Lu Garden, started out as a run-of-the-mill hibachi hut, but soon the owners learned we couldn’t get enough of those numbing peppercorns and turned the whole place into a veritable sweat lodge where patrons slurp dan-dan noodles and spicy hot pots.

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TWO IN ONE Noodles, be they hot, cold, soupy or stir-fried, are the, ahem, mein attraction at this Mills Avenue resto – whether it’s ramen, udon, soba, pad thai, chow fun or lo mein that bubbles your bowl, you’ll find it all at Noodles & Rice. Or try the Hong Kong style barbecue (duck is surprisingly absent), or snag a hot pot table.

COUPLE’S COOKING John and Juliana Calloway created Black Rooster Taqueria to fill a need for an elevated, authentic Mexican taco stand.

Since the storefront opened in 2015, it’s become a neighborhood must-visit. Come for the tacos, but stay for the pork pozole verde and chocolate-chipotle flan.

QUEENS OF CANTON If you’ve ever walked Main Street in Flushing, Queens, you’ll recognize the roast whole ducks and five-spice aroma wafting from Tasty Wok. You can still find kung pao and orange chicken here (done better than most NY-style spots, too), but the stars are the whole sole with black bean sauce and beef with pickled vegetables.

DIY DINNER Shin Jung Korean Restaurant has been through several updates, but we think the most recent one, which added Korean BBQ grills to each and every table, is

long tables in restaurants. But for a fun and interactive chef’s table, sit around the half-moon paella “pit” at Tapa Toro, where executive chef Wendy Lopez and her crew fill pans with shellfish, seasoned shortgrain rice and saffron. Bonus: free parking at the I-Drive 360 garage.

LAVISH & LEGENDARY There are only a few temples of haute cuisine left in New York City, and one of them has made its way down to Orlando to set up shop on a new parking garage going up on Sand Lake Road and International Drive. Circo, the little sister of NYC legend Le Cirque, will open later this year between the neon Orlando Eye to the east and Universal fireworks to the west (though you won’t be able to see the show from the restaurant).

TURNING TABLES

just the tops. After you’ve wrapped your last bulgogi or slurped the last of your kimchi jjigae, don’t forget dessert: the epic patbingsu.

The food at Taverna Opa at Pointe Orlando, the street’s original dining and shopping destination, is beyond reproach – lemony grilled lamb ribs and braised lamb shanks are favorite plates – but it’s the nightly belly-dancing and napkin-throwing that have us coming back for seconds.

THROW A BONE MMMMMM … MUDBUGS A large number of Vietnamese refugees made the Southern states their home during the 1960s and ’70s, and adopted Cajun seafood as part of their culture. King Crawfish and L.A. Boiling Seafood are two spots to get your hands really, really dirty in Mills 50, elbows deep in crawfish, corn and melted butter.

Carnivores will cheer for the prime steak list at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse on the west side of I-Drive.

Oenophiles will adore dining in the private cellar dining room with wine “elevator” that plucks bottles from the two-story tower.

WINE DOWN

Tako Cheena, a bustling Latin-Asian burrito and taco spot, has reached certified local must-eat status. We can’t wait for it to move into new digs just down the street in the former Forbidden City building.

The menu at Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurant is lengthy, but not even as extensive as its wine list. Locals love the Waterford Lakes and Sanford locations, but the I-Drive version is walking distance to the Orlando Eye. If you loved your bottle, pick it up at the in-house wine shop for at-home imbibing.

DON’T-MISS MEATS

PROTEIN-PALOOZA

Until recently, when the Lake Nona outpost opened, Pig Floyd’s Urban Barbakoa on Mills Avenue was the only place to find the pork belly bánh mì – a Latin-Asian sammy that’s an ode to the ’hood – or the Matahambre, translated as the “hunger killer,” a monster layered with smoked brisket, chimichurri, mayonnaise, picked vegetables and an egg on toasted baguette.

Orlando gets enough Brazilian tourist traffic to justify an all-you-can-eat churrascaria chain on every corner. Texas de Brazil, on the north end of International Drive might be the go-to with its NASCARregulation oval buffet, but Fogo de Chão is equally delicious, and their gauchos ask (and remember!) what temperature you prefer your steak when they come around to slice.

I-DRIVE

EAT AT TONY’S

THE TAO OF TACOS

PAELLA PARTY Group dining isn’t a difficult sell on the I-Drive strip; conventions and family vacationers pack private dining rooms and

Don’t roll your eyes just yet. This ain’t the 1970s rib joint you remember. Tony Roma’s parent company is based right here in Orlando, and they’ve made the I-Drive location a flagship and testing ground for

new recipes and craft cocktails. The fare is still crowd-pleasing; just think less Brady Bunch and more Modern Family.

MEET AT THE MONKEY The last remaining vestige of the formerly vast Funky Monkey empire is located at Pointe Orlando, and has been the proving ground for many of Orlando’s top chefs, including Hell’s Kitchen alum Ashley Nickell.

SEE FOOD Throw on your most elegant frock, order a chilly dry martini and prepare yourself for classic seafood preparations at presentday prices at Oceanaire Seafood Room.

The oyster bar features 10 different oysters from around the globe, flown in fresh daily.

We’re almost certain the Oceanaire is the only place where baked Alaska is still a regular on the dessert menu.

MAMBO ITALIANO For plates piled high with pasta, you’ll want to head to Maggiano’s Little Italy at Pointe Orlando. Just north of Buca di Beppo’s price point, this carbo-chain is famous for family-style dishes of eggplant parmigiana and flash-fried calamari. These guys are used to crowds, too, so for a big party, service will be a cinch. Just call ahead.

DEEP SOUTH DISHES She-crab soup is what you should start with when you sit down in the upscalerustic digs at Itta Bena Food & Spirits on Pointe Orlando’s upper level. Get there early to taste your pick of dozens of bourbons at the bar while the pianist takes requests. Once you’ve dined, head across the sidewalk to Lafayette’s for live Dixieland, rock and jazz until the wee hours.

BEACH BITES The seafood-centric Tommy Bahama restaurant is a themed restaurant that tries really hard not to be a themed restaurant.

But you just can’t get around the khakiclad, island-shirted “adventure casual” crowd here. The Maui-inspired menu is anything but casual, though, sporting Kona coffee-crusted ribeye and macadamiacrusted red snapper.

CHOP CHOP What you won’t get at Spencer’s for Steaks and Chops at the Hilton Orlando: frills. What you will get: a damn good steak. The minimalist chophouse is favored for its aged, hand-cut Florida beef, but also flaunts lamb, pork and elk chops on its one-page menu. Steak sides are à la carte, and the celeriac au gratin shouldn’t be overlooked.

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Mexican & Latin

Jason & Sue Chin,

Reyes Mezcaleria

Jason Chin always wanted to open a Mexican eatery, but he wanted to open one that went beyond serving the standard, everyday Tex-Mex fare. For the longest time, Chin felt Orlando wasn’t quite ready for his type of Mexican joint, but not so anymore. Reyes Mezcaleria, his and wife Sue Chin’s latest restaurant venture, tests locals’ preconceived notions of Mexican food and drink.

“We felt the timing was right to bring this type of concept to our local community,” says Chin of Reyes Mezcaleria. “Our locals are eager to try new things and not be stuck in the past.

I don’t think that even a couple of years ago anyone would have thought to open a ‘mezcaleria’ for fear that people wouldn’t understand it, or give it a try, but now we can join the likes of Chicago, New York City, D.C., San Francisco and other foodie destinations that have enjoyed these types of establishments for years.”

Yes, these are certainly heady times for Orlando’s restaurant scene and the Chins see an opportunity to contribute by broadening the culinary landscape even further. “Because Orlando has matured as a food city, we can offer dishes and an overall style of cuisine that’s historically different than what people are used to seeing,” Jason says.

That maturation has fostered a spirit of embracing, not dismissing, food that challenges perceptions, and that spirit is what really gets the husband-and-wife team going. “Not everyone that comes through the doors is knowledgeable about mezcal, but almost everyone is eager to learn about it and give it try,” he says, then adds: “I’ve seen Orlando grow quite a bit since moving here in 1990, but I’m really excited to see what the next five years bring.” —FK

Reyes Mezcaleria 821 N. Orange Ave. 407-868-9007 reyesmex.com

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Mexican & Latin Bartaco Beach-themed taquería fuses Mexican tradition with Latin, Mediterranean and Asian flavors and, for the most part, does so successfully. Tacos are on the small side, but when corn tortillas are filled with such succulent meats as duck confit in tamarind glaze, rotisserie pork pastor, and soy-, sesame- and srirachamarinated Angus ribeye topped with kimchi, substance tends to trump size.

Vegetarian options (falafel, cauliflower, portobello) abound, but don’t overlook other items like grilled corn rolled in lime, cayenne and cotija. Cocktails please even when desserts don’t wow.

Open daily. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407801-8226; $$

Black Rooster Taqueria Tacos at this Mills 50 taqueria are carefully and authentically constructed, with bracing epazote in the vegetarian taco, pickled chile poblano and Oaxaca cheese in the beef-and-bacon asada, and earthy achiote in the pork taco. A texturally brilliant kale salad is out of the norm, but well worth ordering, as is a stew of beef shoulder achiote with aji panca. The chocolate-chipotle flan will leave a lasting impression. Closed Mondays. 1323 N. Mills Ave., 407-6010994; $$

Border Grill Fresh-Mex This MetroWest taquería is a real find, and once found, a treasure trove of tacos (pibil, chorizo and grilled chicken are our faves), tortas, gorditas, burritos and caldos awaits. Consider starting with fresh-made guac and ending with homemade flan, no matter how stuffed you feel. Homemade salsas can be downright infernal, but Mexican Coca-Cola and various aguas frescas (get the watermelon) prove effective extinguishers. Closed Sunday. 5695 Vineland Road, 407-352-0101; $

Black Bean Deli After dishing out homespun favorites since the mid-’80s, Winter Park’s Black Bean passed from aunt to nephew and gained a new vitality. Now there’s a Colonial Drive location, beautifully designed and offering beer and outdoor café tables. Lunch platters are a bargain; tender roast chicken has a citrusy tang, pork is marinated and slow-cooked and the avocado dressing is pale-green magic. 325 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-0294; also 1835 E. Colonial Drive, 407-203-0922; $

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Cuba Libre A festive Cuban restaurant and rum bar, serving all your favorites: ceviche, ropa vieja, corn cakes and more. Can’t decide what to eat? Try the chef’s tasting menu, featuring 15 items, including appetizers, entrees, sides and desserts, for $40 per person. Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive, 407-226-1600; $$$.

El Buzo Ceviche is the specialty of this tiny Peruvian cocina, but be sure to start with excellent mussels on the half-shell, dressed with a tangy salsa jacked with aji limo peppers. Grilled beef heart and traditional lomo saltado are worthy turf selections, if you’re not into surf. For dessert, soufflé-like bavarois de guindones is ethereal. 1436 N. Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 407-673-0237; $

Frontera Cocina Rick Bayless’ Disney Springs concept is a family-friendly affair with a safe offering of well-executed Mexican dishes, not least of which is the tortilla soup with red chile chicken broth. Vegetarians should sample tostadas heaped with grilled zucchini and strips of poblano rajas, while meat-eaters will relish the cochinita pibil torta. For dessert, give the fried plantains with ice cream and cajeta a go. 1604 E. Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407-560-9197; $$$

Gaviota Seafood & Fine Peruvian Cuisine Gaviota brings mighty fine Peruvian cuisine to a cursed location in Thornton Park. Starters like anticuchos (grilled beef hearts) and leche de tigre (ceviche of grouper) impress as much as superb (if pricey) lomo saltado and rice dishes like arroz con pato (duck), and arroz con mariscos (fresh seafood). Pisco sours here make ideal aperitifs, while creamy numbers like tres leches de lúcuma and suspiro de limeña are the way to end.

Servers are bow-tied and knowledgable.

Closed Tuesdays. 100 S. Eola Drive, 407428-4682; $$

Gringos Locos Downtown taquería is a boon for latenight revelers offering standard tacos, burritos, chimis and quesadillas. The sizable girth of the chimi and “1 Night Slam” burrito make them ideal alcohol sponges, and crisp, flaky empanadas are great grab-and-go items. Skip bland guacamole and overdone fish tacos. 20 E. Washington St., 407-841-5626; also 2406 E. Robinson St.; 407-896-5626; $

Hunger Street Tacos The gourmet taco trend gains traction at Hunger Street Tacos, named after the famed Mexico City strip. Brisket, chorizo and chicken tinga tacos are twice-

tortillaed in proper fashion. Vegan (sautéed hibiscus taco) and vegetarian options (squash blossom quesadilla; vegetable tinga) will please the meatless crowd. Desserts like chocoflan and Key lime pie with toasted meringue are more than just mere afterthoughts. Closed Sundays. 2103 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-545-5998; $

than restaurant, but there are pockets of goodness to be found on the mostly Tex-Mex menu. Tableside guac is tasty; chorizo, spicy beef and mushroom tacos are chomp-worthy; cheesy corn on the cob and pulled pork enchiladas warrant a try. 7468 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-2260550; $$

La Fiesta Mexican Grill

Saint Anejo’s south-of-the-border fare is better than your average Tex-Mexeria’s.

Two superbly flavored (and flattened) ribeyes in the carne asada, for example, or a sweet and smoky (but not too sweet and not too smoky) mole rojo, are populist favorites. A sizable selection of margaritas, sangrias, cervezas and cocteles are also offered. Open daily.

5248 Red Bug Lake Road, Winter Springs, 407-636-3600; $$

Within La Fiesta’s cozy walls, you’ll find a homey atmosphere and an emphasis on home-style Mexican cooking. The typical vast menu offers all the usual suspects, but executed with care; especially good are tangy enchiladas verde, goldenbrown shrimp empanadas and salty, chewy carnitas. Don’t miss the chilaquiles (daytime menu only), a comfort-food classic of sautéed corn chips, tomatillo sauce, pulled chicken and cotija. Beer and wine available. 3000 Curry Ford Road, 407-985-4340; $$

Saint Anejo Mexican Kitchen

Super Rico Colombian Bistro

The Rios family has laid claim to one of the best patios in Orlando, right on the shore of Lake Ivanhoe, and they’re serving not only tasty, authentic Mexican fare but also inventive and fresh cocktails – so take advantage. Valet parking available. 1414 N. Orange Ave., 407-9308000; $$$

Food truck fans may remember them as Que Rico Colombian Fast Food, but wheels or no, the Colombian specialties flying onto your table will keep you in your seat. Beef and grilled oniontopped patacones (somewhat similar to tostones), pintxos (grilled meat skewers) and bright-yellow cheese empanadas are tasty; the arepa burger is not to be missed. Closed Sunday. 57 W. Central Blvd., 321-345-7426; $

Oh! Que Bueno

Taste of Yucatán

A small Colombian café that specializes in protein: meat, chicken, sausages, seafood. And unless you count rice, corn and red beans, not a veggie in the place. The carneteria offers authentic traditional dishes done well, as well as enormous combination plates of beef, pork, sausage and the occasional egg.

1125 S. Semoran Blvd., 407-447-5026; $$

No-frills Mexican joint serves up a taste of Yucatán cuisine with a grand selection of tacos, salbutes (deep-fried tacos) and panuchos (salbutes stuffed with refried beans), as well as tortas, quesadillas and rice bowls. Fillings you’ll fancy: cochinita pibil, al pastor, barbacoa and vegetarian rajas poblanas. Closed Mondays. 1375 S. Semoran Blvd., 407704-2248; $

Mesa 21

The Peppy Bistro Mexican dishes comprise but a small part of a menu dominated by Italian and Spanish classics like seafood paella, and beefy meatballs. College Park imbibers have been known to rave about Peppy Bistro’s happy hour menu. 2611 Edgewater Drive, 407-420-1155; $$$

Rincon Cubano Cafeteria Down-home Cuban cooking awaits those who take the drive down Forsyth Road; Maria Alfonso brings her diner to life with welcoming exuberance. Empanadas are a must (if they haven’t sold out); meat-lovers will revel in the steak palomilla, churrasco and pork-topped mofongo. Breakfast and lunch only.

Closed Sunday. 3327 N. Forsyth Road, Winter Park, 407-679-5600; $

Rocco’s Tacos and Tequila Bar Top-shelf tequila and thumping music make this Dr. Phillips taquería more bar

Wall Street Cantina The slightly funky location at Orange Avenue and Wall Street rescues this streetside eatery from too-calculated hipness. Basic Tex-Mex fried favorites are heaped with pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream and are absolutely delicious. Salads and grilled sandwiches round out the offerings. 19 N. Orange Ave., 407-420-1515; $

Zaza New Cuban Diner The new location and name has proven to be just as popular as the original Yaya’s (now closed), serving classic renditions of Cuban comfort food in a tiny ’70s-style building. The kitchen serves affordable, bountiful dinner plates and some of the finest café con leche north of Key West. Flaky, buttery homemade guava-and-cream cheese pastries make a sweet finish. Multiple locations, zazacubandiner.com; $

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Vegan &

Vegetarian

Chelsie Savage, The Sanctum Café

Chelsie Savage started a nutrition consulting business to change people’s perceptions about healthy eating, but after witnessing food movements in major cities across North America, Savage felt a need to do more. “I spent a lot of time traveling – New York City, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Portland, Seattle, Austin, Vancouver, Boulder – and was super inspired by the movement around healthy food in these communities, so much so that I considered moving. But then I thought, rather than leaving and going to a city that inspired me, why not bring what inspired me to the community I love?”

And so went the genesis of the Sanctum Café, hands down the finest vegan/vegetarian restaurant in the city and

one that’s wowed many a meat-eater. Savage senses an “awakening” among food-conscious diners who demand more from restaurants than just food that tastes good, and Sanctum meets those demands.

“Our community is becoming healthier and they want to know where their food comes from, what it’s made of, and its impact on their health and the environment,” Savage says.

“They want to feel good about the choices they’re making, and that’s what they get when they dine with us.” It’s clear Savage holds herself and her patrons to a higher standard, and their overwhelming response serves as further affirmation that she’s found a need and filled it. —FK

The Sanctum Café 715 N. Ferncreek Ave. 407-757-0346 thesanctumcafe.com

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Vegetarian Vegan & Healthy Create Your Nature If health is uppermost in your mind, but deliciousness is right up there too, Create Your Nature is working to tempt you on both levels. The small L-shaped space serves açai bowls and oatmeal bowls with intriguing topping blends.

Açai berry puree can be topped with fresh whole fruits, nuts and seeds; oatmeal bowl options include sweet or savory takes. The health of the planet is considered here, too, with compostable to-go serveware. 1284 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-3001; $$

Dandelion Communitea Café More than 30 organic loose-leaf teas are offered at this socially conscious teahouse that’s become a gathering ground for nonconformists, neocons and everyone in between. A predominantly vegan menu of wraps, salads and an outstandingly hearty chili will satisfy even the most ravenous of carnivores. Start with garlicky hummus with hemp seeds, “roll or bowl” a variety of veggie-grain combos, and finish with the fluffernutter sandwich – a sweet proposition. 618 N. Thornton Ave., 407362-1864; $

Ethos Vegan Kitchen Creative, satisfying meatless fare is the norm at this all-vegan restaurant. Mac and cheese is gratifyingly gooey, and segues nicely into sheep’s pie with its generous heaping of fluffy mashed potatoes. The Winter Park space offers a sophisticated bar and a wide-ranging menu. Sunday brunch is a welcoming and tasty gathering for all palates.

601-B S. New York Ave., Winter Park, 407-228-3898; $

Loving Hut The tiny building is a temple of oddly delicious vegan dining. The environmentally friendly Loving Hut offers a win-win proposition: Along with more typical Asian options like “noble rice” and “saintly stir-fry,” the menu is stocked with snacks like cheesecake, “golden nuggets” and “happy dogs,” but it’s all vegan. Don’t miss the lemongrass rice vermicelli or the taro “milk”shake.

Closed Tuesday. 2101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-5673; $

Market on South Vegan fare: It’s not just for vegans anymore, as this gathering ground for herbivores and omnivores alike demonstrates. In the mornings, lines

run out the door for Valhalla Bakery’s delicious doughnuts and pastries, while visitors chow down on Dixie Dharma’s victuals – tasty tacos, BBQ pulled jackfruit and Georgia peach sloppy joes, for example – day and night. Humble Bumble kombuchas are also offered, as are Quantum Leap wines and rotating draft beers. 2603 E. South St., 407-6135968; $$

New Moon Market College Park has fallen hard for Jennifer Moon’s nourishing concoctions, salubrious snacks and bubbly band of “juice stars” – combos like “Good Vibrations,” a blend of watermelon, pineapple, basil and lime, and the “Lovely Day” with cucumber, pineapple, kale, ginger, lime and apple – and New Moon’s newest offering, superfood breakfast bowls, are all the rage. The “Very Berry,” comprising almond milk, banana, blueberry, strawberry and spinach, then topped with coconut flakes, granola and more blueberries, is the breakfast (bowl) of champions. 2314 Edgewater Drive, 407-440-8147; $$

Power House Café Founded in 1970, the simple eatery with an active lunch counter is what used to be called a “health-food restaurant.”

A Middle Eastern focus shows in the fattoush, tabbouleh and shawarma on offer, but the menu is mostly skewed toward healthy, natural proteins and salads, along with carrot juice and smoothies. Closed Sunday. 111 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-3616; $

The Sanctum Plant-based eatery deftly disproves the antiquated notion that meatless and wheatless equates to tasteless with boldly flavored green, grain and pasta bowls. A kale Caesar is anything but one-dimensional, and the harissa-spiced “Mo’Rockin” bowl with cauliflower, beets, candied walnuts and sultanas is faultless.

Smoothies and pastries are available for sating the sweet tooth, as are medicinal “shots” and soothing warm golden turmeric “milk.” Oh, and they can also pull a proper espresso. 715 N. Ferncreek Ave., 407-757-0346; $$

Skyebird Juice Bar & Experimental Kitchen Cold-pressed juice, kombucha and kale chips are just a few of the raw concoctions you’ll find at the Skyebird stall at East End Market – all made from organic, non-GMO produce. The starfruit kombucha is a favorite, as is the Thai Hot, a spicy green juice; don’t miss the avocado salad, served in Mason jars with a generous pile of the house-fermented kimchi. 3201 Corinne Drive, 407-7589311; $$

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Coffee

& Tea

Iain Yeakle,

Foxtail Coffee Co. Some cities have a coffee culture and some don’t. Iain Yeakle and Alex Tchekmeian, a couple of true coffee connoisseurs and proud Arabica snobs, are the brains behind Foxtail Coffee Co., which has quickly become ground zero for coffee-loving Starbucks-haters in the area. Pretty much every brew style – AeroPress, siphon, nitro, pour over, espresso – is offered, but even better, the on-site roasting facility allows the pair to experiment with taste profiles. Beans are ethically sourced from small producers in Honduras, Guatemala, Mexico and Ethiopia – an attribute Foxtail wants to be known for. ”Social and environmental impact awareness is really important to us,” says Yeakle. “We absolutely love seeing the emergence of sustainability-themed local businesses in the area.” But Foxtail is more than just a “bean-to-bag” operation.

Both Yeakle and Tchekmeian are out to educate patrons and are perfectly happy to talk terroir, moka pots, and the benefits of porcelain to any who’ll listen.

“We want to help our city grow!” Yeakle says enthusiastically, and growth certainly appears to be a part of their grander plans. Foxtail will open Foxtail’s Farmhouse later this summer and offer all sorts of classes to help you become a better barista. Plans also call for additional cafés to open near UCF and in the soon-to-open Hourglass Market on the corner of Bumby Avenue and Curry Ford Road.

“We’re grateful to everyone who’s welcomed and accepted us,” adds Yeakle. “With all the unique food options here, and the manner in which this city is growing, we’re just happy to be involved.” —FK

Foxtail Coffee Co. 1282 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park 407-951-7931 foxtailcoffee.com

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Coffee

& Tea

presses and siphons; less expectedly, they offer as many as six different cold brews on tap, with at least one nitro at all times. 1282 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-951-7931; $$

Austin’s

Lineage Coffee Roasting

After the sun sets, Austin’s is less about fair trade and fresh roasting and more about moderately expensive microbrews.

Squeeze between anarcho-hipsters for live bands, independent film screenings, spoken word and stand-up comedy open mics. Free wi-fi is a plus, as are the wildly painted (by late local artist Morgan Steele) restrooms. 929 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-975-3364; $

The gleaming white tiles and shiny coffee drippers lend Lineage, tucked into the back corner of East End Market, a laboratory atmosphere – which, given the seriousness of purpose displayed by those behind the counter, is not far from the truth. The Lineage staff goes deep, experimenting endlessly with roast times and brew techniques to bring out the very best from each single-origin, limited-edition bean. When you outgrow those whipped-cream-topped caffeinated milkshakes, let Lineage show you the way. 3201 Corrine Drive, 407-2058096; $$

Barnie’s CoffeeKitchen The flagship location of the longtime Central Florida favorite is still serving elegant coffee beverages as well as breakfast, lunch and brunch on Park Avenue. The pour-over station offers a smooth cup, and we come back for the truffled grilled cheese and shakshuka again and again. 118 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-0042; $$

Downtown Credo Espresso drinks (lattes, macchiato, cappuccino), pour-overs and cold-brews are served in four different spaces – College Park, Florida Hospital, North Quarter and downtown – all as sleekly simple as the menu. The erstwhile misnomer of a College Park café with “Downtown” in the name has been rectified with the addition of an actual downtown counter location in the Church Street exchange building. The pay-what-you-will model is intriguing, and it seems to be working out for them. Multiple locations, downtowncredo.com; $

Drunken Monkey Coffee Bar Meat, though present on the menu, takes a backseat to healthy vegan and vegetarian fare at this urban coffeehouse.

Chewy Anzac biscuits partner well with the Mojo Jojo, an instantly addictive coffee drink with cinnamon and sweetened condensed milk. Keeping it simple? Try a cup of their own roast, black, no sugar.

444 N. Bumby Ave., 407-893-4994; $

Foxtail Coffee Co. From the tiniest cortadito to the showiest siphon brew, Foxtail imbues its coffee with an appropriate level of drama.

It’s reflected in the space – between the exposed ductwork of the soaring ceiling and the polished concrete of the floor, Foxtail is appointed with marble counters, brass lighting fixtures, black subway tile, reclaimed barn wood, and a dozen other exquisite finishes and fixtures. Foxtail roasts their own beans, and they serve the expected espresso drinks, as well as cold brew, pour-overs,

Infusion Tea Some special places offer more than what’s on the table, and while the many, many teas and the creative snacks are wonderful here, just as much nourishment comes from the “third place” environment created by Christina and Brad Cowherd. If they’re on the seasonal menu, don’t miss cauliflower-chickpea tacos. 1600 Edgewater Drive, 407-9995255; $

Stardust Video & Coffee Over the years, the Audubon Park stalwart has morphed to serve the changing desires of the community. Among its many functions (work and study spot, café, farmers market) and despite its ramshackle air, the ’dust is prized by anyone looking for a quality lunch, a late-night snack, or a nice buzzy glow, whether from caffeine or liquor. 1842 E. Winter Park Road, 407-623-3393; $

Vespr Craft Coffee & Allures Across Alafaya Trail from the circus that is Waterford Lakes Town Center is Vespr, a minimalist storefront peddling singleorigin Joe and using mad-scientistworthy brew methods like the Japanese Hario siphon method, to produce the smoothest cup of java. 626 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-476-3093; $

Vita Luna Craft Coffee Bar It’s fitting that an operation dubbing itself a “craft coffee bar” would be located in a craft cocktail bar, as Vita Luna is for the moment – Danny Alvarez’s mobile coffee bar is ready to pop up almost anywhere at a moment’s notice, but he and his customers can be found seven mornings a week in Lil Indies, putting the cocktail bar’s comfy velvet sofas to good use. If you can’t linger, bringing your own mug is strongly encouraged. 1036 N. Mills Ave., 321-270-7410; $

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Asian

Sean “Sonny” Nguyen, Domu

“I want to put Orlando on the map with Domu,” says Sean Nguyen, the sanguine owner of the East End Market ramen-ya and pan-Asian hotspot.

As much as Orlando’s food scene has matured over the past few years, and as much acclaim as his restaurant has received, Nguyen is hungry for more and not one to rest on his laurels: “A lot of restaurateurs are taking more risks and pushing the boundaries of what Orlando is used to. We provide something raw and uncut when it comes to ramen and cocktails, and want to be the premier restaurant in Central Florida to offer in-house-made noodles and a unique bar program.”

Certainly Domu has established its ramen street cred amongst the city’s millennials and noodle cognoscenti, but Nguyen is planning more offerings – think perfectly blistered meats and vegetables over aramaru binchotan charcoal, and matcha softserve in house-made waffle cones. Says Nguyen: “Orlando has been home for me the past eight years, and the food scene is still young here, but that gives concepts like Domu a chance to really pave our own way, to go against the grain, take chances, and give people a unique experience.” Much is owed to the progressive denizens of the Audubon Park Garden District who’ve not only been agents for change, but instrumental in Domu’s success. —FK

Domu 3201 Corrine Drive 407-960-1228 domufl.com

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Asian

plethora of teas. 1050 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-733-3561; $

Chuan Lu Garden

Morimoto Asia

For those who prefer their Chinese cuisine on the invigorating side, Chuan Lu employs plenty of fiery stimulants in their authentic, real-deal Sichuan fare. An order of cumin lamb, laced with tien tsin peppers and aromatic Sichuan peppercorns, is a must. Mains are ample. 1101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-896-8966; also 11891 E. Colonial Drive, 407-282-3388; $$

Throngs clamor at this palatial Disney Springs resto for a Morimoto sighting, but ultimately settle for pricey, wellexecuted, pan-Asian eats. Rock shrimp tempura, braised black cod, duck ramen and Peking duck all wow. While sushi doesn’t have a starring role here, spicy yellowtail rolls and ethereal otoro are wonderful. 1600 E. Buena Vista Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-939-6686; $$$$

Domu Popular ramen joint lives up to the hype, offering near-perfect bowls of tonkotsu, shoyu, miso and curry. There’s an uni pasta for those who crave the richness of sea urchin, but don’t overlook other soupless options like crackling Korean fried chicken with Korean butter sauce, grilled octopus and Sichuan cucumbers.

3201 Corrine Drive, 407-960-1228; $$

Pho 88

Jimotti’s Restaurant

Arguably the best pho broth in town, family-owned SNG has all the usual suspects on the menu, but the bun bo hue (spicy beef noodle soup) is the stand-out favorite. Karaoke every night, too. 710 S. Goldenrod Road, 407-658-1967; also 101 N. Bumby Avenue, 407-532-7373; $$

Humble izakaya does its part to diversify and elevate the palates of the good folks of Sanford with trad renditions of Japanese classics. Kurobuta and Sakura sausages are nothing short of Japanese guilty pleasures and the genteel broth teeming with gossamer-green cha soba noodles is simply outstanding. 2545 S. French Ave., Sanford, 407-952-3329; $$

Joyful Garden Early adopters are already raving about this super-authentic, super-fresh Chinese seafood restaurant. Sample frog, eel, jellyfish, razor clam and other marine delicacies, or traditional Chinese specialties like black chicken, noodles with rabbit, or cauliflower sautéed with bacon. 5210 W. Colonial Drive, 407-270-8810; $$

King Bao Soft, doughy buns stuffed with kimchi fried chicken, Korean short rib or braised pork belly – or tofu or sweet potato croquette, for the veggies – are addictive. Side with “fire tots” for an unforgettable meal. 710 N. Mills Ave., 407-237-0013; $

Kabooki Sushi From plating sublimely fresh cuts of sashimi to searing amazingly gratifying escolar splashed with kimchi vinaigrette, chef Henry Moso knows sushi; and nonsushi items like crisp hamachi collar and tender wagyu yaki are expertly rendered.

3122 E. Colonial Drive, 407-228-3839; $$

KrungThep Tea Time Thai teahouse and sandwich joint has a stark, yet soothing, simplicity. The chicken gra-prow will be on your regular sandwich rotation, as will the gooey hotand-cold brick toast desserts and the

One of the first Vietnamese noodle shops in Orlando and one of the best, specializing in gigantic bowls of weirdly addictive pho: very thin rice noodles and various cuts of beef submerged in delicately seasoned broth. 730 N. Mills Ave., 407-897-3488; $

Saigon Noodle & Grill

Seito Sushi The Baldwin Park sushi joint is refreshed and revitalized, and their menu ever more Japanese. A weekend-only izakaya menu is worth a look. Ramen impresses, as does the chef’s selection of sashimi.

A roll fashioned from lobster, American wagyu and truffle aioli will cater to the bon vivant in you. 4898 New Broad St., 407-898-8801; $$$

Soupa Saiyan Dragon Ball Z-themed noodle house is a draw for the fandom, but noodle hounds will appreciate their attention to crafting a fine bowl. “Korean Fire Noodles” with fried egg and barbecue pork may not be a tongue-scorcher, but it’ll turn your chopsticks red. 5689 Vineland Road, Winter Springs, 407-930-3396; $$

Umi Winter Park Purists will appreciate the stellar sashimi and robata offerings, while contemporary diners will get a kick out of their takes on “Japanese fusion.” Servers are eager and knowledgeable. 525 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-960-3993; $$

Viet-Nomz Affordable pho, rice bowls and noodle bowls makes this small, trendy eatery a bastion for collegians attending UCF and Full Sail. While bao and spring rolls are serviceable, tacos and banh mi are surefire options. Open daily. 7581 University Blvd., Winter Park, 407-636-6069; $

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SPECIAL THANKS TO ALL OF OUR VALUED CUSTOMERS WHO MADE THIS HAPPEN! It is an honor for Saigon Noodle & Grill Bumby to be featured with

Celebrity Chef Guy Fieri, mayor of Flavortown on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives

MON - THURS 10:30AM - 9:30PM | FRI - SAT 10:30AM - 10:00PM | SUNDAY 10:30AM - 9:00PM 101 N BUMBY AVE ORLANDO FL, 32803 | (407) 532-7373 4 6 | B I T E 2 0 1 7 | O R L A N D O W E E K LY. C O M

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Italian/ Pizza

Bruno

Zacchini, Pizza Bruno

It’s a hard to come across an avid eater in the city who hasn’t been to Pizza Bruno, and it’s even harder to find someone who has anything bad to say about their magical Neapolitan-style pies. So when the inevitable question “Where should we go for pizza?” arises and “Pizza Bruno!” is the response, it really should be no surprise.

“Hopefully we’re one of those Orlando places that locals can show off to out-of-towners as a true taste of our city,” says chef and owner Bruno Zacchini. “My whole idea was to be able to say we have some world-class pizza being made in the Curry Ford neighborhood.”

That world-class pizza is a point of pride for all Orlandoans, bestowing Pizza Bruno with near-landmark status after just a year in business. And that pride ties into the strong sense of

community echoed by Zacchini and many other of the city’s chefs and restaurateurs: “It’s apparent how excited we are about all things Orlando, from soccer to food to, yeah, even theme parks, and I just really love how much the city has changed since I moved here in 2002.”

Zacchini went to culinary school at Valencia before starting Big Bruno’s Bites (a much-beloved food cart) and the highly respected Third Wave restaurant in New Smyrna Beach, but Orlando is where he wanted to be and it’s clear that Orlando felt likewise. Says Zacchini: “I mean I own the place, and I’m proud of it, but Orlando as a whole is, like, SUPER PROUD of this place and sings its praises to anyone who’ll listen.” If you haven’t yet sampled the pies at Pizza Bruno, you better listen up. —FK

Pizza Bruno 3990 Curry Ford Road pizzabrunofl.com

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Italian/ Pizza

The star is the Neapolitan brick oven, which churns out perfectly blistered pizzas, be it your basic margherita or carciofi con uovo. 1468 Tuskawilla Road, Winter Springs, 321-422-3600; $$$

Anthony’s Pizzeria

Buca di Beppo

Located in historic Thornton Park in a breezy building washed with bronze colors and a Tuscan atmosphere, the café’s two dozen tables – inside and on the courtyard – are a comfortable spot to enjoy traditional Italian subs, pizzas and pasta entrees. 100 N. Summerlin Ave., 407-648-0009; $$

If you want to have a quiet, relaxed Italian dinner for two, stay clear of Buca di Beppo – but we mean that in a good way. Diners are marched through the kitchen, where a tag team of chefs is in constant motion, turning out pizzas as big as countertops and meatballs the size of baseballs. The exuberantly decorated dining room is bright and busy, bustling with waiters. Florida Mall, 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-859-7844; also 1351 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407622-7663; $$

Antonella’s Pizzeria Pizza and pasta house run by the offspring of noted Italian restaurateur Stefano LaCommare is small in stature but grand in flavor. Traditional staples like the meatball parm and eggplant rollatini are plates of comfort, while New Yorkstyle slices are perfectly textured for the fold-and-scarf set. Stay for the cannoli.

Closed Mondays. 360 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-5333; $$

Bavaro’s Pizza Napoletana Not your average pizza and pasta joint, this Winter Springs hotspot draws them in for Neapolitan-style pies and housemade, hand-cut tagliatelle and ravioli.

Lazy Moon Pizza Size matters, and Lazy Moon delivers with astronomically huge slices. They also meet the needs of the broke with the Box Car Willy special – a giant slice of cheese pizza and a PBR – but better beers by far are to be had: 15 beers on tap and almost 50 more by the bottle, plus cocktails in the new Mills 50 location. 11551 University Blvd., 407658-2396; also 1011 E. Colonial Drive, 407-412-6222; $

Maestro Cucina Napoletana Rosario Spagnolo returns to Park Avenue in this joint venture with fellow Neapolitan Antonio Martino. Maybe better Neapolitan pizzas can be had elsewhere, but you won’t find a better space in which to enjoy a slice of pie, or antipasti, pasta con polpette or spezzatino di vitello. Open daily. 528 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-335-4548; $$

The Meatball Stoppe Small Azalea Park eatery serves up (what else?) meatballs in six different varieties, which can be enjoyed three different ways – on top of a starch, smashed inside a ciabatta roll, or “alone” (over greens). 7325 Lake Underhill Road, 407-270-6505; $

Pizza Bruno Arguably Orlando’s most popular and buzzed-about pizzeria entices with “neo-Neapolitan” pies: fermented dough and creative flavor combinations fired in a Ferrari-red Pavesi oven. Traditionalists can have a field day here, for sure, but the adventurous can employ such ingredients as hot honey, charred peaches, blueberries, maple syrup and the like on their fast-blistered pizzas.

Garlic knots with “too much garlic” are practically a must. Online ordering was

PASSION FOR PIZZA

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just added for those who’d rather not eat in. 3990 Curry Ford Road, pizzabrunofl.com; $$

Prato You might have to battle crowds to get a seat at this Park Avenue “it spot,” but once inside, the rustic Italian creations will justify the body-checking. Start with house-cured bresaola, then indulge in Bolognese bigoli enriched with foie gras butter or simple oven-roasted yellowtail snapper. Italian wine aficionados will swoon over the list. 124 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-262-0050; $$

Spoleto Italian Kitchen Fast-casual Italian joint offers “culinary freedom” to the noodle-loving crowds.

Pastas, focaccia flatbreads and salads can be customized with various fresh ingredients, sauces, dressings and notable upgrades, like tasty baked meatballs.

Multiple locations, spoletoitalian.com; $

Your Pie Artfully crafted, perfectly crisp pies emerge from the brick oven trailing smoky, earthy aromas. The peachprosciutto pie is an award-winner, and pairs perfectly with the wide selection of craft beers on offer. 335 N. Magnolia Ave., yourpie.com; $$

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Sweets

Buttermilk Bakery

As the saying goes, “Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working.” For Taissa Rebroff of Winter Park’s Buttermilk Bakery, the muse reveals itself every time she steps into Redlight Redlight, Lineage Coffee Roasting, or the Audubon Park Community Market. Those local successes, she says, “started small, then consciously took their time to grow all the while maintaining quality and consistency throughout.” That ethos pervades the boutique boulangerie she runs with her brothers Phil and Alex and her mother Lana, and it’s a quality patrons of Buttermilk Bakery take notice of.

“This community of local doers does a great job of showing people that there’s more out there than franchises and grocery stores,” says Rebroff. “Customers seek local because the quality is obvious, and there’s a real desire to support

businesses for the passion they have for their craft, rather than businesses whose sole desire is to make more money.”

While in New York pursuing a writing career, Taissa took a job at a Brooklyn bakery and got the idea of opening a similar operation with her family, who were living in South Florida at the time. But a bakery in South Florida was never an option – “we never felt a connection to South Florida,” she says. Having attended UCF, she got a sense of Orlando’s receptive food community and knew a bakery would make sense here.

“We love this about Orlando – everyone seems to have the same goal of supporting each other,” she says, “and our goal is to produce the absolute best we can, and to share new ideas and flavors.” I think Buttermilk’s patronage would consider those goals accomplished. —FK

Buttermilk Bakery 1198 Orange Ave., Winter Park 321-422-4015 buttermilk-bakery.com

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Sweets Better Than Sex Dessert-only restaurant sexes things up with a menu of double-entendre cakes, pies and beverages, most of which will have you moaning in satisfaction.

Desserts like the “Cookie Nookie Pie,” “Morning After” and “Missionary Crisp” are meant to indulge. Chocolate lovers need look no further than the “Twist & Stout” – a girthy chocolate cake with a tart chocolate center and a glaze of dark chocolate stout. Reservations are strongly recommended. 1905 N. Orange Ave., 407-761-8949; $$

Park serves inventive ice creams like Mexican chocolate, maple bourbon bacon and sweet potato casserole.

Can’t make up your mind? Indulge in a flight, a muffin tin filled with four waffle-cone dishes of whatever you like.

3114 Corrine Drive, 321-226-8685; $

Jillycakes Technicolor space punctuated by a counter inlaid with real sprinkles will get kids and adults excited for the sweets in the case. Two-time Food Network Cupcake Wars winner Jillian Kopke runs this sugar shop featuring innovative flavors like fig and goat cheese and cookie butter. 125 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 863-797-4233; $

Blue Bird Bake Shop

P Is for Pie Bake Shop

The bakers at Blue Bird use superior ingredients to create their amazing cupcakes, baked fresh in small batches every day. In addition to traditional faves, this shop also creates unique flavors: Try the chocolate Guinness or vanilla black pepper for a change of pace. Not a cupcake fanatic? Try the caramel brownie. 3122 Corrine Drive, 407-228-3822; $

You won’t find Crisco, gelatin or any processed ingredients here. What you will find is strawberry-raspberry cobbler, chocolate peanut butter sea salt cuties, light and airy banana cream Mason jar pies, and their signature flaky-crust caramel pecan hand pies – all guaranteed to tug on your Southern heartstrings. 2806 Corrine Drive, 407745-4743; $$

Buttermilk Bakery

The Pop Parlour

Whether you’ve got a full set of sweet teeth or you’re a salt-and-butter fiend to the end, skipping a trip to Buttermilk Bakery would be a big mistake. The “morning buns” crafted by the Rebroff family turn any morning into a celebratory occasion – tippingover tall and sugar-sticky with a hint of orange or cardamom. Croissants are shatteringly crisp and very buttery, filled with sweet almond paste, rich chocolate or savory combos like cheddar and jalapeño. 1198 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 321-422-4015; $

A rotating menu of flavors including mimosa, coconut-rum-chocolate, and Nutella with Cigar City Maduro Brown Ale makes it clear that the pop-crafters here (formerly part of the Hyppo chainlet) take fun seriously, and their commitment to organic and local ingredients where possible bears that out. 431 E. Central Blvd., 321-348-7677; $

Gideon’s Bakehouse Over-the-top soft “cookies” are roughly a half-pound of cookie dough solidly bedazzled with chips. Cake slices are also offered, along with iced coffees and, once in a while, ice-cream-topped warm cookies at the counter. Get there before closing; they sell out most days.

East End Market, 3201 Corrine Drive; $$

Jeremiah’s Original Italian Ice It’s like a sorbet, only more slushy. It’s not a snow cone, although it does come in a cup, in not-too-sweet and refreshing flavors such as mango, kiwi, tangerine, watermelon, red raspberry and passion fruit. Don’t skip the condensed-milk drizzle. Multiple locations, jeremiahsice.com; $

Kelly’s Homemade Ice Cream The brick-and-mortar version of the popular food truck now in Audubon

The Soda Fountain The vibe at this ice cream store – now serving Sanford-based Wondermade ice cream – is undoubtedly eclectic, and that’s precisely the intent of owners Brad and Christina Cowherd (who also own Infusion Tea). Patrons are encouraged to draw on the chalkboard walls as they enjoy their sundaes, floats, shakes and egg creams. 2525 Edgewater Drive, 407-540-1006; $

Valkyrie Doughnuts Celine Duvoisin’s UCF-area spinoff of her crazy-popular Milk District Valhalla Bakery has a clean, minimalist and wonderfully Norse feel. In the UCF shop, she focuses on the vegan doughnuts she’s known best for, along with soft-serve and a daily rotating milkshake-pastry hybrid the store calls “$9 Bullsh*t Drink of the Day.” At Market on South, the Valhalla satellite serves up doughnuts as well as butter tarts, cinnamon rolls, mini fruit pies, cookies, and more. 12226 Corporate Blvd., 407-986-9009; also 2603 E. South St., 407-613-5968, $$

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American

Modern

Norman Van Aken, 1921 by Norman Van Aken

We should count our lucky stars that culinary legend Norman Van Aken runs not one, but two restaurants right in our backyard. His latest, 1921 by Norman Van Aken, is an absolute stunner and, along with chef de cuisine (and legend in the making) Camilo Velasco, Van Aken says he’s on a mission to “give voice, flavor and setting” to cooking in modern-day Florida.

“I was in the middle of writing My Florida Kitchen, and I’d done a lot of research, travel and cooking to determine what that was to me,” Van Aken recalls. “Then we opened 1921 and, in large part, the new book became the template for our menus.”

If you’ve had the pleasure of dining at 1921, you’ll know those menus are deeply rooted in the history of Florida and explore the rich diversity of the Sunshine State. Van Aken came up with the term “fusion” a long time ago to give himself

clarity on how he wanted to approach cooking. In the 1921 kitchen, Van Aken and Velasco – the “Killer V’s” – marry what they describe as “astonishing” hyperlocal ingredients, then stamp their fingerprints of fusion on such remarkable dishes as Titusville spiny lobster and rock shrimp dumplings with country ham dashi; dazzling whole Cape Canaveral white shrimp with Anson Mills grits dashed with spiced ’nduja vinaigrette and ramp butter; or pan-roasted duck breast with duck confit, mole poblano and trumpet mushrooms.

Van Aken declares, “We wouldn’t be the restaurant we are without the partnership we’ve forged with many farmers, fishermen and artisanal suppliers.” No doubt Florida’s bounty of flora and fauna reigns at 1921, and it’s easy to see why Van Aken feels ever so grateful for that largesse as well as the procurers who help bring it to the restaurant’s splendid tables. —FK

1921 by Norman Van Aken 142 E. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora 352-385-1921 1921nva.com

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American

Modern

1921 by Norman Van Aken Reflecting the culinary tradition of Florida old and new, 1921 dazzles with art, decor and menu focused on the flora and fauna of the Sunshine State. A ceviche of cobia in passion fruit juice, or dumplings filled with a mousse of spiny lobster and rock shrimp in a country ham dashi, or pan-roasted duck breast with mole poblano, or whole Cape Canaveral white shrimp, Anson Mills grits and a fosse of spiced ’nduja vinaigrette and ramp butter spiked with pickled gooseberries – it’s all staggeringly good. 142 E. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora, 352-385-1921; $$$$

Artisan’s Table The breakfast and lunch scene is hopping at this downtown hub, but at dinnertime, culinary strokes of fancy take over in such dishes as General Tso-style calamari, mushroom Bolognese over coconut polenta, and short-rib poutine.

Stiff cocktails are also artistically crafted; menus change seasonally. 22 E. Pine St., 407-730-7499; $$$

Chroma Modern Bar + Kitchen The modern kitchen anchoring Lake Nona Town Center’s ultra-modern landscape serves up time-honored dishes courtesy of chef Jason Bergeron. Succulent short-rib sliders, lamb ribs, littleneck clams and luxuriant bone marrow make sharing joyfully gratifying. 6967 Lake Nona Blvd., 407-955-4340; $$

K Restaurant

to really showcase his personal style and brilliant technique. Dishes, for the most part, are creative yet approachable – be it a magnificent serving of grilled royal red shrimp with “punched” potatoes, or golden tile crested with fennel-citrusblueberry salad served over farro verde.

If you’re up for a fancified sharing plate, the tuna tartare with a grating of preserved lemon and cured yolk sided with Aleppo-peppered pork rinds over an avocado puree (whew) will do just fine.

4104 Millenia Blvd., 407-930-6206; $$

Pharmacy Pharmacy places an emphasis on creativity in the kitchen, as well as behind the bar. Start with one of the many “elixirs” – stiff, hand-crafted potions – before diving into such shareable options as roasted bone marrow with oxtail and chili-strawberry preserves or fried green tomato nuggets served over creamy corn curry. Mains vary by season, but what we ate – Swiss chard with sausage and pasta sleeves, and sea bass with a tableside pour of lemony Parmigiano broth – was superb. 8060 Via Dellagio Way, 407-985-2972; $$$$

The Ravenous Pig The frills are as sophisticated as the fare at this Winter Park gastropub; diners swoon over the gruyère biscuits. Scallops with caramelized cauliflower puree, roasted foie with cinnamon ice milk and rabbit rillettes with pea tendrils underscore creativity and talent in the kitchen, as do mains like a lamb trio of loin, bacon and sausage. Desserts are uniformly rich and rave-worthy. 565 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-2333; $$$

The restaurant tucked into a cozy bungalow reaches a grand level of food and service; chef and owner Kevin Fonzo (the “K”) creates dishes that are both simple and elegantly delicious, often using ingredients from the garden behind the kitchen. From salad to starter to main course, everything hits the right note, surpassing the restaurant’s already sterling reputation. 1710 Edgewater Drive, 407-872-2332; $$$

The Rusty Spoon

Luma on Park

Soco

Chef Brandon McGlamery attracts all the glamorous foodies to his Park Avenue destination. There’s a great wine selection, a creative cocktail menu, and the smaller plates encourage sharing. Menus change daily and seasonally, but the fish entrée is always a fabulous and Floridacentric bet here. The atmosphere is lively, especially at the chef’s table. 290 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-4111; $$$

Greg Richie’s imaginative takes on Southern classics have made Soco one of downtown’s premier dining destinations, thanks to dishes like cassoulet of duck confit with boiled peanuts, molasses-glazed hanger steak with smoked brisket hash browns, and hotsmoked cobia with buttermilk potato cakes. Bourbon hounds will appreciate the extensive selection, while those with a penchant for indulgent endings will appreciate house-made moon pies served with a vanilla RC Cola float. 629 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-1800; $$$$

Millenia 106 A focused menu of local, seasonal fare allows journeyman chef Bruno Fonseca

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Self-described “gastropub” brings a locavore credo to the downtown core along with an urban-farmhouse vibe. The rustic menu focuses on locally farmed and raised ingredients, but not obsessively so. Best: tapenade-stuffed eggs, coffee-rubbed culotte steak and grownup s’mores. There’s a small but decent selection of craft beers and wines as well. 55 W. Church St., 407-401-8811; $$

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American

Traditional

randon McGlamery, the James Beard-nominated wiz behind Luma on Park and Prato, welcomed a new addition to his restaurant family this year – Luke’s Kitchen & Bar. Not surprisingly, the restaurant’s “classic American cuisine” checks the “seasonal” and “responsibly sourced” boxes, and serves as an anchor for Maitland’s burgeoning restaurant scene. After all, McGlamery’s name resonates with Orlando’s food community and he’s often mentioned in the same breath as other stalwarts like Kevin Fonzo, James and Julie Petrakis, Scott Hunnel and others who helped establish Orlando’s culinary reputation. But there was a time when McGlamery viewed the city as a stepping-stone to greater things.

“I came to Orlando to help open Luma and, to be honest, I wasn’t planning to stay for the long run, but that clearly changed,” McGlamery says.

“I didn’t want to like Winter Park and Orlando as much as I did, but when I got out onto the lakes, and got to know our clients – many I now call friends – and saw an opportunity to raise a family here, well, it really changed my perspective.”

Lucky for us it did.

Brandon McGlamery, Luke’s Kitchen & Bar

McGlamery, like so many others, now feels invigorated by the city’s restaurant makeup and buoyed by how culinary talents are staying put to make their mark right here instead of heading off to larger markets. It makes McGlamery want to be a better chef and a better restaurateur. “We strive all the time to make our food better, to make our servers better and to be active participants in our community. It’s a fun city for those who really like to eat and, I can tell you, it’s good to call Orlando home.” —FK

Luke’s Kitchen & Bar 640 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland 407-674-2400 eatatlukes.com

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Chef Art Smith’s Homecomin’

Hash House a Go Go

Tampa-based boîte is the latest to make a go of this jinx spot. Wonderfully crisp fried green tomatoes with pimento, tomato jam and house bacon are an impressive starter, as is the farmhouse salad with greens grown right on the walls in the resto’s “vertical garden.”

Pan-seared wahoo over celery puree is a hit. Definitely don’t pass up fish specials – or dessert. 358 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-7022; $$$

Celebrity chef Art Smith returns to Disney with his aptly named restaurant showcasing all that’s good about Southern fare. His near-legendary fried chicken (get it with house-made doughnuts), shrimp and grits, fried catfish, chicken and dumpling soup, and pimento cheese keep the masses at Disney Springs fat and happy. A few bites of that hummingbird cake will definitely slow the pace of your park perambulations. There’s a nice selection of moonshine cocktails, too.

Open daily. Disney Springs, 1602 E. Buena Vista Drive, 407-560-0100; $$$

The hash slung at Hash House a Go Go will shock those not accustomed to colossal plates and cast-iron skillets full of country-style food. From the stack of fried green tomatoes to the stuffed meatloaf to the sage fried chicken Benedict, everything looks big enough to feed a family of four. 5350 International Drive, 407-370-4646; $$$

Canvas Restaurant & Market

Crooked Spoon Gastropub

The strokes aren’t always fancy at Canvas, but dishes like burrata with caramelized stone fruit, Floribbean grilled shrimp salad, oak-charred octopus and succulent apple-bourbon braised short ribs steal the scene. A burger fashioned from short rib and brisket is extraordinarily moist; accompanying fries are no afterthought. You won’t go wrong with an order of wood-oven-roasted whole fish. A respectable wine list warrants careful perusal, and Key lime pie with toasted meringue is a must. Open daily.

13615 Sachs Ave., 407-313-7800; $$$$

Crooked Spoon’s progression from food truck to brick-and-mortar has elevated Clermont’s dining scene, thanks to a steady focus on local sourcing and deft execution of down-to-earth gourmet dishes. Crunchy duck confit tostadas, Indian-spiced chicken and waffles and a manageable portion of bacon-wrapped meatloaf are pleasing enough to draw diners from Orange County. The burgers are just as good as they were in the food truck days.

200 Citrus Tower Blvd., Clermont, 352404-7808; $$

American Traditional Boca

Highball & Harvest The Ritz-Carlton’s farm-to-table joint caters to the millennials with Southern-inspired dishes using local, farm-fresh ingredients. While some flavor and texture combinations need to be worked on, you’ll mostly find competently executed plates of comfort food issuing from this kitchen.

You won’t go wrong with a starter of duck and andouille gumbo, followed by outstanding skirt steak, capped with sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

Don’t miss ham-hock-infused boiled peanuts. Ritz-Carlton Orlando Grande Lakes, 4012 Central Florida Parkway, 407-393-4422; $$$$

Hillstone A short menu compensates with huge portions, especially desserts. Pork ribs, steaks, chicken and a fish of the day

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(and a very popular grilled artichoke) are served in a wood-accented, masculine setting with a lake view from every seat. You’ll likely spend some time on the lovely tree-dotted lawn if you don’t make a reservation – but that’s OK. 215 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-7404005; $$$

Maxine’s on Shine Neighborhood jewel offers an eclectic Italian-esque menu in a casual, intimate atmosphere. Pasta and fish dishes are deftly executed; the nutrient-rich kale in the Cobb salad offsets the decadent bacon, egg and blue cheese. Wine list is ample and studied. Brunch is offered Saturday-Sunday; once in a while, the owner takes the mic for a song or two.

337 N. Shine Ave., 407-674-6841; $$

Metro Diner Comfort food chain replicates an oldtimey diner with its checkerboard floor, counter seating and Depression-era feel.

Breakfast (served all day) is the main draw, with griddled items like the nutty waffle and croissant French toast being highlights, though the mandible-testing Pittsburgh sandwich with pastrami and fried egg is worth a try. 985 N. State Road 434, Altamonte Springs, 407-9178997; $$

Nova

The Strand

Ivanhoe Village “it spot” talks the talk and walks the walk when it comes to local sourcing, and luckily for us, chef Val Domingo is as capable cooking those ingredients as he is sourcing them. Even a slight underseasoning couldn’t mar a wonderful (though pricey) chunk of duck fat fried chicken or fillet of grouper. Salads, like a refreshing heirloom tomato salad, shouldn’t be overlooked, nor should tacos filled with panang curry-braised short rib. Desserts procured from the Cake Factory on I-Drive make for gratifying endings. Open daily. 1409 N. Orange Ave., 407-745-4080; $$$

Cozy Mills 50 gem packs them in, thanks to a food-first ethic and dedication to local and seasonal sourcing.

Enjoy a craft brew with the roasted red snapper hash, a breakfast item available as a dinner appetizer. More substantial items of note include the fried Cornish hen with mustard mashed potatoes and wilted greens, as well as the grilled mahi atop roasted-vegetable tabouli. The olive oil cake with mascarpone cream is already a fan favorite. 807 N. Mills Ave., 407-920-7744; $$

RusTeak Restaurant & Wine Bar Don’t let the amazingly long menu frighten you – most of the dishes created by the proficient kitchen of these Ocoee and College Park gastropubs are top-notch. If the lamb porterhouse is ever offered as a special, pounce on it. They also know how to cook fish to perfection. Other highlights: Tuscan steak flatbread and the hefty half-pound RusTeak burger. Closed Sunday. 1568 Maguire Road, Ocoee, 407-614-3765; also 2625 Edgewater Drive, 407-5401100; $$

The Stubborn Mule The folks who brought us RusTeak are behind this casual Thornton Park eatery where dishes veer towards the weighty, and beverages toward crafty. Fried Wisconsin cheese curds and equally addicting pork belly slicked in an “Asian” sticky sauce make fine starters, while burgers, Reuben tacos, and the catch of the day make fine entrée choices.

Ending with a cronut topped with vanilla bean ice cream will only cement your decision to return. Closed Mondays. 100 S. Eola Drive, 407-930-1166; $$

Tap Room at Dubsdread Historic dining destination on the grounds of Orlando’s oldest public

golf course offers simple, impeccably prepared dishes. Pot roast makes an ideal meat-and-potatoes nosh, fish and chips are simple comfort food, and homemade Key lime pie is a must. A lively brunch scene heats up weekends. 549 W. Par St., 407-6500100; $$$

The Tennessee Truffle Southern fare and French technique fuse together at chef/owner Nat Russell’s down-home Sanford resto.

His biscuits and gravy might be the best in Central Florida, though the same could be said of his maque-choux and creamed corn.

Biscuit sandwiches, like the BLT and chicken salad, are wholly satisfying though be wary of palate-shredding, firm-textured biscuits. A scoop of house-made ice cream (brown butter and buttered popcorn specifically) is the way to end. Closed Sundays and Mondays. 125 W. First St., Sanford, 407-942-3977; $$

TR Fire Grill Craft cocktails and healthy portions of elevated comfort classics outline the menus of this Winter Park newcomer.

Share sangria muddled with local fruits, then order the brilliant oven-

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baked pizza dip, the smoked chicken mac ’n cheese or salmon with “zoodles.” End with the Chocolate Mayhem. 1035 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-708-3600; $$$

The Whiskey Gourmet burgers and craft cocktails are the name of the game at this Sand Lake road hangout – well, actually, whiskey is, and they can pour you 200 different kinds. If you’re more peckish than parched, 19 different burgers and sandwiches await – and the namesake Whiskey burger with smoked Gouda, bourbon bacon, whiskey onions and dill aioli is a knockout. 7563 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-930-6517; $$

White Wolf Café With its quirky, romantic setting and easy pace, this antique-marketturned-bar-and-café is a landmark hangout on the cluttered strip of Orange Avenue that’s called Ivanhoe Village these days. The menu is eclectic as well, with vegetarian burgers, Middle Eastern fare and flatbreads, as well as entrees like lobster mac and cheese and cedarplank salmon. 1829 N. Orange Ave., 407-895-9911; $$

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Mediterranean & Middle Eastern

Shiraz Market

Shiraz Market helped fill the void for Persian fare in Seminole County after Zora Grille shuttered in Altamonte Springs, and what’s offered from the market’s cramped kitchen is nothing short of remarkable. Owner Nas Rajabi, along with his wife and parents, fashions the finest Persian-style beef and chicken kebabs in town and, on any given day, will dish up such Iranian specialties as ghormeh sabzi (beef stew with herbs), khoresht gheymeh bademjan (eggplant stew) and fesenjan (chicken stew).

In fact, Disney tourists from Iran often make the drive to Longwood for a taste of home – a far cry from the fashion jewelry business the Rajabis ran in chilly Manchester, New

Hampshire, prior to coming to Orlando in 2010. “Orlando is a great cultural city and it’s the main reason, other than the weather, why we moved here,” says Rajabi.

Manchester’s loss is most certainly our gain. The culinary riches available at the market, from green almonds and Persian cucumbers to an assortment of cheeses and homemade bastani (pistachio ice cream) and faloodeh (frozen, rose-essenced vermicelli), easily makes Shiraz one of the best Middle Eastern markets in the city. Good thing for us, the Rajabis aren’t going anywhere. “In all honesty,” says Nas, “we plan on staying here until retirement!” And as long as we’re being honest, we hope they do. —FK

Shiraz Market 185 S. Ronald Reagan Blvd., Longwood 407-951-8084

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Mediterranean asian & Middle Eastern Bosphorous Turkish Cuisine Bosphorous serves delightful fare with many lamb, eggplant and yogurtcentered dishes. Not only is the food superb, it’s also a nice place to sit while smoking scented tobacco from their water pipes and/or enjoying a glass of Turkish wine. 108 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-8609; also 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-352-6766; $$$

Cedar’s Restaurant Their spin on traditional Lebanese food is a lightness of texture and flavor that is both refreshing and inviting.

Use the hot, puffy house-baked lavash bread to scoop up baba ghanoush topped with pickled walnuts; kibbeh are crunchy-fabulous. Top off your meal with a hookah on the patio. 7732 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-351-6000; $$$

The Greek Corner The view of the downtown skyline is spectacular from this nook on Orange Avenue across from Lake Ivanhoe.

Dining outside is a must, as is the hearty meze platter, with a sampling of enough Greek specialties – baked feta, gyro meat, braised lamb and traditional salads melitzanosalat and taramosalata – to satisfy the gods on Mount Olympus. 1600 N. Orange Ave., 407-228-0303; $$

Flame Kabob Tucked in a corner of the Dr. Phillips Marketplace, this humble eatery may not have the cachet of its neighbor Anatolia, but as a kebaberia, it more than holds its own. Excellent rice complements flavorful kafta kebab, shish tawook and rack of lamb.

Traditional starters are all good, but consider crunchy fattoush salad and pizza-like safiha for a change. Baklava is served cold, but Turkish coffee is properly steaming. 7536 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-248-2280; $$

JJ’s Grille Whether JJ’s brings a Med influence to fresh-Mex or a Mex influence to freshMed, most will agree that the burritos, rice bowls, pita sandwiches and tabbouleh bowls are equally worthy.

Our fave combo was a lentil rice bowl with tabbouleh, sautéed eggplant, grilled onions and peppers, feta and tzatziki. A gracious and welcoming staff not only makes the fast-casual experience tolerable, but enjoyable.

2950 Curry Ford Road, 407-8022947; $

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Maraya at Sabrina’s Restaurant This gem by the Florida Mall doesn’t compromise on quality, and that’s reflected in the prices. All ingredients are brought from Lebanon. Don’t miss the off-menu labneh (Lebanese cream cheese), chicken with whipped garlic sauce and be ready for transcendent falafel with tahini. 8100 Crystal Clear Lane, 407-856-8155; $$$

Mediterranean Blue Familiar South Orlando Greek spot has been spruced up a bit and stocked with eco-friendly wares. The menu is deceptively simple, but nearly everything is a winner. The Provence sandwich is a delicious trip across the salty-savory spectrum, and falafel gets extra points for fresh, soft pita and house-made tzatziki sauce. Closed Sunday. 435 E. Michigan St., 407-422-2583; $$

Mediterranean Deli An oasis of authenticity, complete with odd decorations, exhilaratingly exotic smells and hearty but inexpensive meals.

You’ll find perfect hummus, superior kibbeh and superb gyros, not to mention one of the best spinach pies around. A top spot to eat for $10 or less. Closed Sunday. 981 W. Fairbanks Ave., 407-5392650; $

Olea Mezze Grill Olea, a fresh-casual Greek joint, is part of the new breed of eateries bent on madefrom-scratch offerings and superior customer service. Start with grape leaves imported from Greece and end with heavenly baklava from Hellas Bakery in Tarpon Springs. In between, take your pick from rice or couscous bowls, salad bowls or pita sandwiches. The trick is to temper your desire to top your bowl (or stuff your pita) with any and all available items. 400 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-335-4958; $

Shiraz Grill Filet mignon and chicken kebabs steal the show, but perfumed plates of barberry-jeweled pilaf with luxuriant Persian stews are also outstanding. A smoky starter of pureed aubergines drizzled with cream of whey is as dipworthy as any hummus. Get closure with a glacial orb of syrupy-sweet falooda.

6427 Westwood Blvd., 407-284-1273; $$

Theo’s Kitchen Head into this tiny spot for the superbly seasoned fried chicken – everyone else does. But the lamb gyros, stuffed grape leaves, hummus, falafel and other Syrian/ Greek standbys are just as worthy.

Prices are dirt-cheap and everything is seasoned to perfection. 2952 Curry Ford Road, 407-849-0810; $

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Casual

John Collazo, Bad As’s Sandwich

Orlando’s thriving food truck scene is a sure sign of its gastronomic health, and when food truck proprietors like John Collazo get into the brick-and-mortar game, all the more so. At Bad As’s Sandwich, Collazo’s Milk District eatery, the fruits of his labor come in the form of monstrous, sometimes decadent, always inventive sammies.

“We’re located in an area where everyone is so creative that we have to continue to match that enthusiasm,” says Collazo.

“I love Orlando’s growing diversity, and like to visit new restaurants and local favorites for inspiration.”

And Bad As’s sandwiches are unquestionably inspired. Case in point: the El Anormal #3, packed with adobo-roasted pork and peppery cantimpalo sausage, garnished with chipotle jack

cheese, crispy onions, saffron aioli and a guava glaze. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more original sandwich in the city.

For Collazo, diversity was one of the primary reasons he made the move from Allentown, Pennsylvania, to Orlando 10 years ago. In his estimation, multiplicity in food perspectives doesn’t just unite and make this city better, it makes his restaurant better.

“We’re surrounded by so many great restaurants that we want to diversify our flavors to make our sandwiches a bit different,” he says. And clearly Collazo’s supportive customer base appreciates it. “Just knowing they’ve enjoyed what I created makes it all worth it,” he says, “because when they love you, they really show it.” —FK

Bad As’s Sandwich 207 N. Primrose Drive 407-757-7191 badasssandwiches.com

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Casual

Fuel BBQ

It’s all about the smoked-to-perfection Angus beef brisket at this popular Texasstyle smokehouse; be prepared to wait in line. Heady sides set this barbecue joint apart from the rest: smoked corn relish, sweet and meaty baked beans, and cream-cheese-stuffed jalapeños wrapped in bacon. Multiple locations, 4rsmokehouse.com; $$

Owners Chris and Michelle Johnson annexed the space next to their popular blues bar, the Alley, to house this comfy little pit stop knowing there’s no more natural a pairing for blues than barbecue.

The barky velour of the brisket is the undoubted star, but don’t pass on the ribs, pulled pork or burnt ends either.

Sides are no mere afterthought – great care has gone into perfecting the fried okra, collards, baked beans, and mac and cheese. 120 S. Park Ave., Sanford, 407328-4848; $$

Bad As’s Sandwich

Graffiti Junktion

This Milk District sandwich joint gives lunch reason to live, thanks to chefowner John Collazo’s mighty fine creations. Most sammies are served on a French roll, though the El Anormal #3 with adobo roasted pork and peppery cantimpalo sausage gooeyed up with chipotle jack cheese comes served on soft, flaky, subtly sweet egg bread.

Simpler sandwiches like the “Mafioso” with thinly shaved beef and the “Ninja” with crispy fried pork belly, shouldn’t be overlooked. 207 N. Primrose Drive, 407-757-7191; $

Prodigious patties for the post-grad set seems to be Graffiti Junktion’s function; the crowd is young and the digs run to squatter-chic embellishments. Skip the salad and chili and head straight for the beefed-up burgers, served on homemade buns. A full bar keeps the scene lively and the din uproarious. Multiple locations, graffitijunktion.com; $$

4 Rivers Smokehouse

Beth’s Burger Bar Being pigeonholed as a late-night pit stop is inevitable when you’re situated in the downtown core and stay open until 3 a.m. on weekends, but Beth’s Burger Bar is worth a visit even during sober daylight hours. Beth’s takes a down-toearth approach to patty-stacking, with a thousand toppings and a straight-up, old-school approach (plus old-school pricing to boot). Multiple locations, bethsburgerbar.com; $

The Coop Best bring a growling stomach to John Rivers’ shrine to Dixie dining, where you’ll feast on over-the-top, Americansized portions of fried chicken, meatloaf, pot pies, pork chops and the like. You’ll also find numerous sides and starters – candied yams, creamed corn, stewed okra, fried green tomatoes and pimento cheese, to name just a few. Not saving room for pie would be a dang shame.

Closed Sundays. 610 W. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-843-2667; $$

First Watch Popular with both the post-church crowd and the party-all-nighters, the three local branches of breakfast chain First Watch mostly offer a spread of breakfast and lunch classics – omelets, salads and sandwiches and the like.

But dig into the seasonal menus for new twists like a crab & asparagus omelet or a barbacoa benedict. Open daily. Multiple locations, firstwatch. com; $

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Hamburger Mary’s While diversity is key at this gay-friendly burger joint, the menu is unquestionably all-American. Hefty, gloppy burgers satisfy, as do triangles of addictive fried mac-and-cheese, and meatloaf is a must.

Desserts like fried Twinkies and Mary Tyler S’mores will test your ticker. 110 W. Church St., 321-319-0600; $

Hot Krust Panini Kitchen Humble panini kitchen forgoes processed meats for in-house roasting, making for some of the most succulent beef, chicken and turkey sandwiches to be found. Veggie options, like the hummusfilled “Alibaba,” are equally impressive.

Sides like sweet-and-spicy cactus chili and roasted sweet potato waffle fries are not to be overlooked. 8015 Turkey Lake Road, 407-355-7768; $

Hubbly Bubbly Falafel Shop Fast-casual College Park eatery places an emphasis on quality with a focused offering of falafel and spit-fired meats.

Rib-eye/lamb shavings are perfect in pita pockets, as is the turmeric- and paprikarubbed chicken, though both can be enjoyed in salad or hummus bowls; for the vegans, lentils with caramelized onions are a toothsome protein. Start with fried cauliflower in “Lilly” sauce; for a light capper, the lemon slushy is good sweet fun. 3405 Edgewater Drive, 407985-5841; $

Kona Dog Food Truck This fan-favorite food truck pops up around town to serve up Hawaiianthemed takes on hot dogs, sandwiches and fries. They also sponsor the popular Kona Food Truck Luau meetups throughout Central Florida. Visit their

website for times and locations. Multiple locations, gokonadog.com, $

Mark’s Caribbean Cuisine UCF-area jerk joint isn’t in the tidiest of strip malls, but the Jamaican fare is neato. Yes, the jerk chicken is top-notch, but the supremely tender oxtail stew is what regulars come back for. Plush cuts of goat in a heady curry are perfectly gratifying, as is traditional ackee and saltfish. 10034 University Blvd., 407699-8800; $

Omelet Bar This UCF-area newcomer offers creative takes on more than just omelets – though that Bostonian omelet, topped with lobster bisque, is certainly a standout on the menu. You can also satisfy your sweet tooth with a variety of confectionery waffle arrangements. And an expansive drink menu makes this a hot spot for collegiate Sundays Funday.

Open daily. 12250 Strategy Blvd., 407704-1597; $$

Pig Floyd’s Urban Barbakoa Pig Floyd’s brings a sense of humor and quality barbecue to Mills 50. Everything from luscious brisket to succulent St. Louis-style ribs to flavorful pulled pork impresses; even moist spiced-rubbed

chicken is worth coming back for. Given owner Thomas Ward’s Latin heritage, the sweet plantains, fried yuca, and rice and beans make sense (and don’t disappoint). Good beer selection. Open daily. 1326 N. Mills. Ave., 407-203-0866; also 9680 Narcoossee Road, 407-7307376; $$

Planet Hollywood You’ll be paying a premium for anything off the menu at this Disney Springs landmark, but think of it as admission to an impressive museum of movie memorabilia. So don’t forget to take a walk around the three-story observatory after filling up on burgers and milkshakes. 1506 E. Buena Vista Drive, 407-827-7827; $$$

Pom Pom’s Teahouse & Sandwicheria Want interesting sandwiches (Mama Ling Ling’s Thanksgiving is a cult classic, and the yellow curry chicken salad is just plain classic), unusual tea (raspberry-rose, tiramisu rooibos), killer desserts (lavender-peppercorn crème brûlée), and a cheery, art-filled atmosphere? Find it all here at this Milk District pioneer. Open 24 hours Friday and Saturday. 67 N. Bumby Ave., 407894-0865; $

Se7enbites The brainchild of local chef Trina Gregory-Propst, this bakery and eatery had to move to bigger digs last year to meet demand. And once you taste their sweet and savory confections or ribsticking comfort food, you’ll see exactly why they needed the extra elbow room.

617 N. Primrose Drive, 407-203-0727; $

Sonny’s BBQ A true Florida original, Sonny’s BBQ has grown from a single restaurant outside of Gainesville to a regional powerhouse boasting more than 150 locations across nine states. While the menu may be a little workmanlike compared to newer competitors, there’s nothing wrong with the simplicity of a good ol’ barbecue platter. Multiple locations, sonnysbbq.com; $

Tako Cheena An eclectic offering of tacos, burritos and arepas stuffed with mostly Asian (but also Indian and African) fillings sets this taquería apart from the rest – along with the loud music and edgy art.

Empanadas are a must to start, then dive right into the sublime panko-crusted cod taco. Burritos are substantial – don’t pass up the African braised beef, with corn, potatoes and quinoa – and the sauces, especially sweet chili with

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smoked ghost pepper, are sublime. 932 N. Mills Ave., 321-236-7457; also 4241 N. John Young Parkway; $

Teak Neighborhood Grill This chill MetroWest hang developed a loyal following for its hefty half-pound burgers and craft brews, and it’s no wonder. Purists can indulge in the “Plain Jane” with American cheese, Bibb lettuce and tomato on a brioche bun, while braver souls can feel the heat with the peppery “Wholey Hell!!!”. 6400 Time Square Ave., 407-313-5111; $$

Toasted Toasted deserves high praise for their braised brisket-and-fontina and fig-andgoat grilled cheese on artisan bread as well as for the house-made vegan cheese and burgers. 1945 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-960-3922; also 10783 Narcoossee Road, 407-930-8682; $

Yellow Dog Eats The popular Gotha eatery now has a New Smyrna Beach location, where they continue to serve their signature barbecue and unique sandwiches as well as tacos, nachos, salads and veggie items. 147 Canal St., New Smyrna Beach, 386-410-4824; also 1236 Hempel Ave., Gotha, 407-296-0609; $

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European

e’s worked with some legendary names – Boulud, Keller, Cardoz, Van Aken – and was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs of 2010 for his stint at D.C.-area hotspot Trummer’s on Main.

But all that national acclaim failed to have the desired impact and, after what Miller describes as being a “small fish in a big pond,” he was drawn back to Orlando for its emerging food scene, a scene he likens to Austin, Texas, and Nashville, Tennessee.

“I saw how my close friends Brandon McGlamery and James Petrakis were killing it and thought Orlando was ripe for the taking,” he says. So he did. At DoveCote, his nouveau downtown brasserie, the talented culinarian is making a name for himself right in the heart of the city – DoveCote was named Top Table of 2016 by Orlando Weekly – and seems impressed, even dumbfounded, by the increasing sophistication of DoveCote’s clientele.

Clay Miller, DoveCote

“You know what I can’t stock enough of?” he asks with child-like amazement.

“Chicken liver pâté! It outsells our shrimp cocktail by ten to one. I mean, chicken liver pâté! It really is a testament to the food culture of Orlando and the diverse community here.” It would appear Miller can look forward to being a big fish in an ever-widening pond for many years to come. —FK

DoveCote 390 N. Orange Ave. 407-930-1700 dovecoteorlando.com

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European Bulla Gastrobar South Florida Spanish joint serves up some mighty fine tapas and tipples.

Chef Felix Plasencia gets it going with marvy croquetas, stellar octopus salad, and pintxos of charcoal-fired cuminmarinated pork. For more substantial plates, consider the seafood paella, arroz marinero cooked with plankton, and the red snapper fired up in a charcoal oven.

Torrijas (Spanish-style French toast) drizzled with honey and served with turrón ice cream is our choice to end the meal. Open daily. 110 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-214-6120; $$$

DoveCote It’s hard to find a clunker on this downtown brasserie’s menu of approachable French cuisine, whether you’re downing starters like French onion soup (a specialty), tomato-water risotto or Vietnamese seafood stew, or entrees like steak frites, moules frites or vermouth-braised pork cheeks. Partake in their progressive cocktail program, or enjoy one of the many French wines offered by the glass. 300 N. Orange Ave., 407-930-1700; $$$$

Kokino Trendy tapas joint hopes to draw a late-night crowd to its stylish confines.

Oysters in the seafood canoe were remarkably fresh; small plates like lamb pops rolled in sofrito and plantains please, as does grilled asparagus topped with bresaola, smoked peanuts, grana padano and a poached egg. Be wary of greasy ribeye plancha, though a lavender olive oil cake makes a delightfully light ending. Dinner only, plus Sunday brunch.

7705 Turkey Lake Road, 407-270-9199; $$$

Hollerbach’s Willow Tree Cafe Homey gasthaus in Sanford’s historic downtown district offers bier, wursts, spaetzle, strudel and some of the finest sweet red cabbage you’ll eat, but the talent extends well beyond the food: Oompah music, dancing and downing “das boot” (about a yard of beer) are a crowd-stirring must. 205 E. First St., Sanford, 407-321-2204; $$

La Casa de las Paellas Seafood is actually most prominent on the vast menu, but paella fiends can choose from seven variations. Paella marinera teems with fish and shellfish, but we lamented the lack of the characteristic crisp bottom crust. Make it a point to start with crunchy, juicy chicharrones de pollo. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 10414 E. Colonial Drive, 407-736-9880; $$

La Merce Restaurant & Market A seafood-leaning menu at this Spanish resto off Park Avenue shows potential, but prices may be scaring off customers who’ll never get to try their excellent black seafood paella (with squid ink), octopus carpaccio, or grouper with clams. A proper-good flan will please the custard set, and service is as friendly as can be. 155 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 321-295-7611; $$$$

Le Coq au Vin Incredible French cuisine is the hallmark of this south Orlando landmark.

Graceful perfection distinguishes dishes such as “grouper bronzé aux dix épices,” a fillet encrusted with toasted pecans and spices and bathed in citrus beurre blanc, and the center-cut black Angus steak, served with a dollop of peppercorn sauce. Closed Monday. 4800 S. Orange Ave., 407-851-6980; $$$$

Santiago’s Bodega Key West transplant serves a bevy of pan-Mediterranean small plates. Locals who know cannot stop gushing over the fantastical brunch spread – giant crab legs, bottomless Bloody Marys, unforgettable French toast – and tapas like beef tenderloin carpaccio, yellowfin tuna ceviche, patatas bravas, and short ribs coated in a cherry-hoisin glaze. The extensive wine list impresses, as does the $28 carafe of red sangria. 802 Virginia Drive, 407-412-6979; also 1185 S. Spring Centre Blvd., Altamonte Springs, 407960-2605; $$$

Tapa Toro Tapa Toro has the looks and the dishes to match, no bull. Expertly crafted Spanish fare makes it well worth the drive to sample puckery gazpacho, perfect pulpo a la plancha, or pan rustico with a spread of Medjool dates and goat cheese. Plush skewers of beef tenderloin please and, apart from the lack of crusty socarrat, the paella with chicken, chorizo and lamb chops was utterly brilliant.

8441 International Drive, 407-226-2929; $$$

Urbain 40 French Colonial brasserie with a swingera vibe is a stunner, and the high price you’ll pay is well worth the wallet crimp. New chef Tim Keating (formerly of Flying Fish Café) is putting his own mark on the menu, but you’ll still find the mushroomy crêpe urbain reflective of owner Poinard’s native Lyonnaise cuisine.

Stellar bouillabaisse and duck three ways showcase serious kitchen chops.

The pastry menu does no wrong, be it macarons, truffles, tortes or potent baba au rhum. 8000 Via Dellagio Way, 407872-2640; $$$$

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Indian

Oh My Gyro!

While the fare served from halal food carts of the sort found on the not-so-mean-streets of the Big Apple veers toward Middle Eastern (and gyros, of course, are Greek), the quadrumvirate behind Longwood’s Oh My Gyro! couldn’t help but let a bit of their Indian heritage creep onto their menu of rice platters and pita sandwiches.

Milky chais, hearty lassis and fresh-squeezed sugarcane juice comprise the beverage portion of OMG!’s bill of fare, but veg, chicken and beef samosas are permanent Desi fixtures as well. The brothers Kermali, Husein and Abbas – along with their wives, Rukhsana and Tanaz – admit leaving New York was a tough decision for them, but like many a New Yorker, the slower pace and warmer weather beckoned. And like many a New Yorker, they perpetually longed for the very things from which they escaped.

“It’s a hard place not to miss,” says a wistful Husein Kermali, “so we decided to bring a taste of New York to Orlando and, I have to say, the street cart food we serve at Oh My Gyro! is the same that’s served in Manhattan.” The proud declaration isn’t without merit. Sure, the foil containers filled with chicken and gyro meat, yellow rice, pita bits and healthy drizzles of requisite white sauce and hot sauce pack them in during lunch and dinner hours but, for the Kermali gang, those vessels of comfort do one more thing – they bring back great memories. —FK

Oh My Gyro!

1150 W. State Road 434, Longwood 407-960-4496 ohmygyro.com

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Indian Aashirwad It’s hard to beat the cost and variety of favorite dishes in the daily lunch buffet, even if it’s not a quick stop.

Dinner is pleasant and highlights the Northern Indian cuisine, but this strip-mall eatery is for filling up, not atmosphere. 7000 S. Kirkman Road, 407-370-9830; $$

Bombay Café This sanctuary of South Indian fare gives Woodlands a run for its money with infernal vegetarian curries, enormous dosas and comforting flatbreads. Chaats (crunchy snack mixes) offer textural diversity with varying levels of heat. Lunch thalis are available Monday to Sunday. 1137 Doss Ave., 407-240-5151; $

Bombay Grill Inside one of the city’s most popular Indian grocers sits a grill serving up fresh-from-the-butcher meats at prices that can’t be beat. Grilled lamb chops are sublimely succulent, and plush beef kebabs and flavorful minced lamb are just as exceptional.

But there’s not much here for the meat-free crowd. 11741 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-856-1780; $

Gateway to India The distinctive roofline of a former Pizza Hut remains, but inside a world of Indian specialties awaits. Chicken tikka masala and malai kofta are creamy and mildly spicy; chili naan will make your scalp tingle. Soothe it all down with a dish of cardamom-kissed rice pudding. 790 E. State Road 434, Longwood, 407-399-9996; $$$

Khasiyat Most people come to this humble vegetarian hideaway for the cheap lunch buffet – well-stocked with five different curries – but the real star is the selection of savory Indian snacks.

Can’t-miss offerings: enormous, not- at-all-greasy dosai masala and addictive bhel puri. Wash it all down with a Limca, the official soft drink of the subcontinent. 852 W. Lancaster Road, 407-888-2147; $

Moghul Indian Cuisine Tried-and-true standards define Moghul’s kitchen, especially superb chicken tikka and seekh kebabs. Gheeslicked peshawari naan are buttery, nutty and delightfully sweet wonders.

Beware, hotheads: “Indian hot” is truly infernal. 401 N. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-599-9001; $$

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Mynt Understatedly elegant Indian joint brings standard curry house fare guised as haute cuisine to Hannibal Square. Flavors work for such dishes as uttapham sliders, but some of the plating makes for impractical eating.

There are plenty of options on the menu, ranging from fish to lamb to chicken and vegetarian dishes.

Tandoori dishes come out in clay pots.

The lamb vindaloo was infernal, but creamy, subtly sweet lamb pasanda made for an easier meal along with flaky lacha paratha. 535 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-6367055; $$$

New Punjab Indian Restaurant Authentic Indian standby on International Drive offers refuge from the bright lights and fast-food franchises. Take a tour through the classics – curries, fried breads, chutneys and tasty tandoori dishes.

7451 International Drive, 407-3527887; $$

Tabla Cuisine After an extensive renovation, a new menu and some new personnel in the kitchen, this revamped Indian restaurant hasn’t missed a beat.

It’s added a few, in fact, in the form of Chinese and Thai dishes. Skip tamarind-sweetened pad Thai, and opt instead for stellar gobi Manchurian and lemon-coriander soup. Kebabs, be they lamb, chicken or otherwise, are some of the best in town. Desserts can be hit or miss.

Closed Mondays. 5827 Caravan Court, 407-248-9400; $$

Tamarind Indian Cuisine Tamarind’s familiar, fiery and focused dishes are worthy of Subcontinental food cravings. Samosas and sizzling tandoor-fired lamb chops are the way to start; end with exotic falooda kulfi, ice cream made of condensed milk, rose syrup and crushed pistachios.

501 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-207-0760; also 12309 E. Colonial Drive, 407-237-0920; $$

Woodlands Pure vegetarian Southern Indian delicacies hit every part of the tongue with equal splendor. Go straight for the thali specials for a bit of everything, or savor Tamil specialties like enormous, crispy, masalastuffed dosas. The coconut chutney here is so good we once haggled (unsuccessfully) to buy a pint to go.

Closed Mondays. 6040 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-854-3330; $$

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Steakhouses

Christner’s

Prime Steak & Lobster

In the competitive world of high-end steakhouses, it’s rare (pardon the pun) to find a family-run chophouse like Christner’s Prime Steak & Lobster thriving, especially here in Orlando. Started by Russ Christner in 1993, who saw an opportunity in Orlando due to a “lack of competition and potential for growth,” the classic, wood-paneled steakhouse quickly gained acclaim for its high-quality steaks and Russ’ larger-than-life personality. An affiliation with the Del Frisco’s name came and went, but through it all, Christner’s cuts of USDA Prime beef, wet-aged for 21 days in-house, were unsurpassed.

After Russ passed away in 2005, the operation fell into the hands of his wife, Carole, his son, David, and David’s wife, Alice, who were charged with the task of introducing the excellence of beef to a whole new food-savvy generation.

“When we opened our doors in 1993, Orlando was anything but a food city,” says Alice Christner. “There were probably 10 independent fine-dining options, but now we have some incredible restaurants entering our food scene – so much so that any visitor would deem Orlando a foodie destination.” And Christner’s makes up a beefy portion of that scene. Next year, the Lee Road restaurant celebrates its 25th anniversary – a testament to the fact that, while trendy joints and foods come and go, there will always be a need for a quality steakhouse. —FK

Christner’s Prime Steak & Lobster 729 Lee Road 407-645-4443 christnersprimesteakandlobster.com

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Steakhouses Back Room Steakhouse Here you’ll find steakhouse classics like a perfectly built old-fashioned, oysters Rockefeller, shrimp cocktail and iceberg wedge salad – oh, and glorious red meat, of course. From tomahawk ribeye to petit filet, steaks are tender and carefully seared. 1418 Rock Springs Road, Apopka, 407-880-7832; $$$$

Capa Sexy rooftop resto at the Four Seasons shows off its style with Basque- and Spanish-inspired specialties and USDA Prime steaks. It’s hard to go wrong with any dish, but you’ll go right with hamachi crudo to start. If beef is your craving, the bone-in filet is sublime, even if it sets you back $69. Four Seasons Resort Orlando, 10100 Dream Tree Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-313-7777; $$$$

damn fine too, be they ribeye steaks or foie gras-topped elk tenderloins. An inhouse sommelier roams the space proffering sagacious wine advice. Desserts, like white chocolate bread pudding with whiskey sauce, also cater to epicurean sensibilities. 17 W. Church St., 407-4477950; $$$$

Linda’s La Cantina No matter how you slice it, Linda’s La Cantina serves a superb steak and has been doing so for more than a half a century. Sit in the Fire Fountain Lounge sipping a grasshopper while you’re waiting for your checked-tablecloth table in the dining room – and keep in mind that on most nights, reservations are recommended. All steaks are cut in-house, including the monster 2-pound T-bone.

Closed Sunday and Monday. 4721 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-4491; $$$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

There’s no confusion over what to order: USDA Prime steaks and chops and primo cold-water lobster, plus old-school steakhouse sides like potatoes au gratin and creamed spinach, all served in a delightful maze of dark wood-paneled rooms.

729 Lee Road, 407-645-4443; $$$$

Weighing in heavily on the masculine side of the top-dollar dining spectrum, the ambience, menu and service here are powerfully delivered. The New Orleansbased chain serves only aged meats from corn-fed Hereford cows, seared on an 1,800-degree grill – so tender a knife isn’t necessary. For expense accounts and special occasions. Multiple locations, ruthschris.com; $$$$

Choo Choo Churros

Shula’s 347 Grill

From empanadas to authentic opengrilled steaks, this is a good but unpretentious Argentine steak house in the shadow of the East-West Expressway.

Closed Monday-Wednesday. 5810 Lake Underhill Road, 407-382-6001; $$

Part sports bar, part trendy steakhouse, this hotel restaurant scores big with a small selection of steaks and fresh seafood. The scene and clamor may not suit all tastes, but the cowboy steak, a 16-ounce bone-in ribeye, certainly will. Same goes for the grouper, simply grilled and served with balsamic-drizzled asparagus and smashed potatoes. 2974 International Parkway, Lake Mary, 407531-3567; $$$$

Christner’s Prime Steak & Lobster

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar Typically wood and leather in styling, Fleming’s offers aged, hand-cut beef in huge, thick-as-a-brick servings and family-style side dishes, giant seafood entrees and enormous desserts. Big and beefy. 933 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-699-9463; also 8030 Via Dellagio Way, 407-352-5706; $$$

Fogo de Chão Brazilian Steakhouse A shrine to beef, with heavenly tableside service to boot. Juicy skirt steak, saltcrusted rib-eye and meltingly tender filet are standouts, but accoutrements like deep-fried polenta squares, baconstudded rice and beans, and thick spears of chilled asparagus will also wow. 8282 International Drive, 407-370-0711; $$$$

Kres Chophouse Downtown chophouse brings in elements other steakhouses don’t seem to have – Jazz Age flair and impeccable service. The prime cuts of meat are

Texas de Brazil One price buys overindulgence at this richly styled all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascaria, serving 15 cuts of charcoalgrilled meats on large skewers that are delivered to your table until you tell ’em to stop. The salad bar is a country in itself, with a wealth of fresh vegetables and Latin standbys, as well as gourmet specialties like shrimp salad, ceviche and artichoke-feta melange. 5259 International Drive, 407-355-0355; $$$$

Vines Grille Wine Bar Steaks and seafood straight from an open charcoal grill are what you’ll find in a surprisingly intimate spot in the heart of Sand Lake’s restaurant row. The upscale fare includes perfect tenderloins and crunchy flatbread pizzas, and there’s live music nightly. 7533 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-351-1227; $$$

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Seafood

Fred Thimm,

Reel Fish Coastal Kitchen

You have to admire Fred Thimm. The seasoned and experienced restaurant industry veteran, whose résumé includes executive stints at Palm Restaurants and Hard Rock International, opted to leave the corporate world behind to open a seafood restaurant in a space that previously housed one of the area’s most hallowed restaurants. No small task, that’s for damn sure, but Thimm has both the will and the wherewithal to make Reel Fish Coastal Kitchen & Bar a success in Winter Park’s competitive landscape.

“We’re very fortunate to occupy the former Ravenous Pig space,” says Thimm, “and we’re striving to complement Orlando’s, and Winter Park’s, status as a food city by celebrating fresh, sustainable, Florida seafood and the city’s

Southern culinary roots.” After serving as president of Stoney River Legendary Steaks in Nashville, Tennessee, Thimm and his wife moved here in 2012 and “fell in love with Orlando” for its diversity, lakes, water culture and proximity to both coasts which, naturally, helped his cause.

“Living here allows us to procure a wide variety of fresh seafood daily and introduce a diverse demographic of tourists, residents and students to traditional Southern flavors and Lowcountry offerings,” Thimm explains. After encountering a few hurdles early on, Reel Fish appears to be attracting that diverse demographic yet, still, Thimm remains cautiously optimistic. “We aspire to be everyone’s favorite local seafood joint,” he says, then adds: “and earn our way.” —FK

Reel Fish Coastal Kitchen & Bar 1234 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park 407-543-3474 reelfishcoastal.com

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Seafood Atlantic Beer & Oyster Adjacent to Boca, this beer-and-oyster bar suffers from sometimes lackadaisical service. Bluepoint oysters, as well as those from Texas and Louisiana, are the main attraction, but a trio of shrimp dishes, a salad and a burger are also offered. The smoky fish dip makes a worthy nosh alongside a beer, of which there’s a decent selection. 358 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-7021; $$

Blu on the Avenue Chef Tony Kreuger knows what he’s doing with such dishes as oven-roasted snapper and pan-roasted duck breast.

Owner Joanne McMahon is also an expert pastry chef, so don’t pass up sweet endings like peanut butter pie.

Reservations recommended. 326 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-960-3778; $$$

The Catfish Place of Apopka Florida-style fish house is the place to go when you’re in the mood for down-home fried seafood. The boneless catfish is superb; the house-special coleslaw is crisp, sweet and tart; and the service is warm. Closed Sunday and Monday. 311 Forest Ave., Apopka, 407-889-7980; $$

Eddie V’s Prime Seafood You get what you pay for and, for the most part, this pricey Dr. Phillips fish house delivers. Both the steak and lobster tartare and the jumbo lump crab make a splash as starters. Though it’s primarily a seafood place, you’ll be hardpressed to find a better steak than their 22-ounce USDA Prime bone-in rib-eye.

7488 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-355-3011; $$$$

Fish on Fire Part roadhouse, part fish camp, FOF offers Florida-style eating in a south Orlando neighborhood without many other options. You can’t go wrong with the barbecue, the fried catfish is a study in simple excellence, and the Key lime pie is very tasty. Cold beer and a pool table seal the deal. 7937 Daetwyler Drive, 407-812-6881; $

King Cajun Crawfish A host of seasoning choices, top-notch sides and cut-rate prices make this Cajun dive a real draw for diners craving crawfish boils. Other NOLA staples are hit (catfish po’boy) and miss (gumbo).

End with a strong cup of Café du Monde coffee. 914 N. Mills Ave., 407-704-8863; $

Lee & Rick’s Oyster Bar An unfancy place with 50 years of experience. The pound of hot or cold

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shrimp has a slightly spicy flavor, and the fish-dinner platters come with heaps of fries. But the fresh, sweet oysters (raw or steamed) are the focal point. For the full effect, sit at the bar and settle in with a bucket of them. 5621 Old Winter Garden Road, 407-293-3587; $$

Moor Fresh, sustainable food is what’s on tap at the Gaylord Palms’ newest restaurant.

Look for the 60-foot-tall sailboat mast to find this “harbor of hip,” which features New World Floridian cuisine served by a chef from Key West who brings an island-style atmo. 6000 W. Osceola Parkway, Kissimmee, 407-586-1101; $$$$

The Oceanaire Seafood Room A budget-busting bounty of unparalleled freshness awaits fish lovers at what is arguably Orlando’s finest seafood house.

Up to 25 varieties of fish, lobster, crab and mussels, and 12 varieties of oysters are flown in daily from around the world.

Family-style sides are available, though not necessary. Save room to share the enormous wedge of caramel brownie.

Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive, 407-363-4801; $$$$

Reel Fish Coastal Kitchen & Bar Steadily improving fish house in the former Ravenous Pig space has a lot going for it, notably a bracing ceviche of shark, snapper and hogfish; pankobreaded roasted oysters; and a quartet of fried green tomatoes atop zesty roasted pepper vinaigrette. There’s plenty of fried goodness for the fish camp lover in you, and if the whole roasted yellowtail snapper is available, get it. 1234 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-543-3474; $$$

Urban Tide Locally sourced seafood is now the focus inside the Hyatt Regency’s signature resto Urban Tide, formerly Napa. A salad of locally grown tomatoes topped with Thai basil sorbet makes a refreshing start; the blackened skin-on Florida yellowtail snapper an immaculate main; and the spice-roasted pineapple rum cake with coconut sorbet an ideal ending.

Service is stellar, and the wine list accommodating. 9801 International Drive, 407-345-4570; $$$$

Winter Park Fish Co. The mostly-from-Florida seafood served here will get you hooked. They’ll make a gratifying fish and chips from scratch with almost any fish they’ve got in-house (your choice!), and fresh local produce is a nice healthy touch. Expect a bit of a wait. Closed Sunday. 761 Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-6112; $$

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Pubs Wine Bars Taprooms

’m not flaunting my credentials,” says chef Harold Henderson of North Quarter Tavern as he rattles off a litany of top-notch kitchens in which he’s worked – K Restaurant, Luma on Park, Artisan’s Table, Citrus Restaurant, Crooked Spoon, Bar J Me. “My point is that I’ve been around Orlando’s food scene for a long time and can really appreciate it.”

Like many of us, Henderson has witnessed the evolution and revolution of Orlando’s dining scene with the rise of celebrity-chef-run Disney restaurants as well as local, community-inspired eateries and, like many of us, he’s just as amazed.

“I may be a bit biased, but I think Central Florida – Orlando, specifically – is the culinary hub of the most innovative and inspired food in Florida,” he says. Henderson credits folks like Kevin Fonzo and Brandon McGlamery for leading the charge.

As for NQT, Henderson sees it as part of the fabric of the community. “We don’t hold such a grand position, but taverns have historically been center points for communities, even used as courthouses and town halls in addition to just serving beer, and what we do is support the community, be it customer or purveyor.” Indeed, the North Quarter Tavern is an avid supporter of local businesses and farmers – which, Henderson hopes, offers patrons a sense of comfort and a sense of home.

Harold Henderson, North Quarter Tavern

“We have a dish – ‘Big Ed’ – which is named for a customer and his eating capacity; it’s a chef’s choice of gluttony. We have fun with food, but still hold firm to the philosophy that it’s a chef’s responsibility to nourish, be it body or soul.” —FK

North Quarter Tavern 861 N. Orange Ave. 407-757-0930 northquartertavern.com

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Pubs Wine Bars Taprooms

wrapped chorizo-stuffed porchetta sandwich. Sunday brunch offers a wildly popular Bloody Mary bar. 861 N. Orange Ave., 407-757-0930; $$

Oblivion Taproom

Unlike the scores of enomatic dispensers found at other wine bars, the 32 offered at this Oviedo drinkery keep the attitude to a minimum, while the kitchen delivers bar fare that’s well-executed. Canadians may scoff at the un-Canadian poutine, but anyone will relish the lamb burger and the octopus salad. 15 Alafaya Woods Blvd., Oviedo, 407-359-5016; $$

One of the city’s better beer bars sits, unexpectedly, on a forgettable strip of Colonial Drive, with 40 beers on tap, but the meaty bar bites, inventive burgers especially, are what sets this place apart from the rest. Don’t overlook crisp battered-and-fried items or tots with house-made ketchup. Vegan and vegetarian options are plentiful. Closed Monday. 5101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-8024800; $$

Firefly Kitchen & Bar

The Parkview

The former TAPS in Winter Park Village has since transformed into Firefly Kitchen & Bar with a still respectable list of brews as well as 48 wines available via dispensers. The kitchen keeps up with a stellar fried chicken and pecan pie and moonshine cake made using recipes from the owner’s grandmother. 480 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-6775000; $$

While not as sprawling a space as the Wine Room, nor as packed as Luma, the Parkview has the unpretentious, comfortable air that its neighboring Park Avenue haunts don’t. Plus, the menu goes well beyond the tried-and-true charcuterie and cheese plates to create highly edible pairings – roasted bone marrow, braised beet carpaccio and more – to match an intriguing selection of wines. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday. 136 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-647-9103; $$

DeVine Wine & Grill

The Gnarly Barley A roadhouse that just so happens to serve great food, the Belle Isle brew pub features 10 beers on tap and a menu full of hangover preventers (or cures) like the “Snack Attack,” a mound of kettle chips buried under shredded chicken, blue cheese and salsa, and the “Johnnie Mac n’ Cheese” sandwich, a bombshell take on the French dip.

Closed Monday. 7431 S. Orange Ave., 407-854-4999; $

The Hammered Lamb A gorgeous patio with a full bar and 16 beers on draft offers views of Lake Ivanhoe on one side, and the roar of the train tracks on the other (but don’t worry, when the locomotive goes rushing by, the bartender hands out train shots). If you start to feel peckish while you party, peruse a menu full of creative sandwiches and wraps. 1235 N. Orange Ave., 407-704-3200; $

M Lounge As yet the food offerings are slim at this brand-new College Park rooftop bar – a veggie antipasto plate or a charcuterie board – but the swanky cocktails and wide-ranging wine and beer list are already attracting the beautiful people.

2000 N. Orange Ave., 321-430-1140; $$

North Quarter Tavern This North Quarter restaurant brings a relaxed attitude, good service and a food-focused ethic to downtown. It’s all about ticker-testing comfort fare, like the poutine with duck gravy or the bacon-

The Porch Winter Park sports bar can get cacophonous at times, but the crowd seems to enjoy it – the fact that the food here is decent is a bonus. Bison meatballs are nice for sharing, while hefty burgers served with even heftier onion rings are ideal booze sponges.

For a more substantial nosh, consider the stuffing waffle topped with mashed potatoes, roasted turkey and turkey gravy. 643 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-571-9101; $

Sea Dog Brewing Company A Florida outpost of the popular Maine-based brewery serves a solid bar menu of wings, dips, nachos and flatbreads. As for the brews, apricot, blueberry, blood orange and açai are just a few of the fruits that find their way into your Sea Dog’s brewery tanks, to tasty effect. 8496 Palm Parkway, 321-329-5306; $

The Smiling Bison For the food-obsessed, Smiling Bison is a home where the gastronomes roam.

Meat matters to chef Josh Oakley, a fact made clear after just one bite of the bacon fat biscuits or the smoked kielbasa gnocchi. The deceptively substantial duck lovers’ pizza (with duck confit, duck ham and a duck egg) is not to be missed. There’s a great selection of craft brews and cocktails. 107 S. Magnolia Ave., Sanford, 407-915-6086; $$

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Specialty

Markets

Mia

Supermarket

Bumby Avenue has seen its share of ch-ch-changes over the last couple of years, finally reopening this spring after widening and repaving. But before all that, Winn-Dixie closed and Mia Supermarket took over.

For those devotees of Phuoc Loc Tho, Saigon Market, Dong-A Supermarket, Woo Sung Market and First Spring Oriental Market, Mia was another welcome addition to our Asian supermarket lineup. Inside the fluorescent-bright store, umpteen kinds of rice, fish sauce, frozen dumplings, seasoning pastes and more line the shelves. Around the perimeter, rows of bitter melon and bok choy. To the left side, a fish counter with whole and filleted sea creatures, as well as some delicacies best bought live, like giant bullfrogs and sea

cucumber. Love offal? Mia sells all kinds of nose-to-tail innards ready for a quick grill or a long braise.

But the highlight that sets this supermarket apart from the rest of our sensational Asian markets is the Formosa Bakery, just inside the automatic sliding doors to the right. The yeasty aroma of fresh-baked breads and buns and cakes wafts through the store and it’s impossible not to stop and at least look. From sweet to savory – Chinese sausage wrapped in fluffy brioche; taro-stuffed pineapple buns – these are some of Orlando’s most original and Instagrammable desserts. Channel your inner Zimmern and chow down on a durian custard tart: outstanding. —HVK

Mia Supermarket 2415 E. Colonial Drive 407-228-9899

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Specialty

Markets

International Food Club

Russian restaurant and grocer with the city’s largest caviar selection by far, as well as salted fish, cheeses, Eastern European wine and beer, plus vegetable spreads and appetizers. Open daily.

7540 Universal Blvd., 407-351-3131, ararateuro.com

A vast warehouse, the market (it’s not a club and you don’t need a membership to shop there, no matter what the moniker suggests) represents more than 20 countries. It can be a little — OK, a lot — overwhelming, but start perusing the aisles and you’ll end up with at least one bottle of Trini scotch-bonnet hot sauce or some Russian pickles just to start with.

4300 L.B. McLeod Road, 321-281-4300; internationalfoodclub.com

Artisan Alley

Middle East Market & Deli

Homemade products (of the food sort and otherwise), including cold-pressed juices, craft beer, organic coffee, pickles, plants, jams and fresh produce from local growers. Open 6-9 p.m. Fridays.

DeLand, 386-589-3118, mainstreetdeland.org

It’s a popular lunch spot (the shawarma sandwich is a must), but also the place to pick up sesame candies and other Lebanese groceries like tahini and olive oils straight from the source. Open daily.

8100 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-855-6555

The British Shoppe

Plant Street Market

Ketchup-flavored potato chips, lemon curd, clotted cream, Cadbury chocolates, tons of teas (but of course!), and frozen foods like puddings and meat pies. Plus, British kitsch to outfit your kitchen.

Closed Sundays. 809 N. Mills Ave., 407-898-1634, thebritishshoppe.com

Grab a java at Axum, then browse the Local butcher and market, brews from Crooked Can Brewing Company, juices from Press’D and teas from AntiquiTEAs, and many more. Hours vary. 426 W. Plant Street, Winter Garden, 786-671-1748, plantstmarket.com

Dong-A Supermarket

Paramount Butcher Shop

Mills 50 mainstay selling pan-Asian specialties and cookware like woks and steamers. The seafood counter is where live prawns hit the marketplace, and the extensive frozen section has all you’ll need for DIY dim sum. Open daily.

812-816 N. Mills Ave., 407-898-3807, dongacorporation.com

Halal butcher shop selling beef, veal, lamb and goat, plus more than 20 specialty halal deli meats that are certified free range, grass-fed, antibiotic/hormone-free. Open daily.

448 S. Alafaya Trail, 407-730-3198, paramountbutchershopusa.com

East End Market

There’s a whole wall of specialty meats, and two more walls full of deli items and side dishes to fill your buffet table. Go on a weekend and you might make it for a wine tasting. Pick up charcuterie and cheeses to pair with the vino. Closed Sunday. 2141 W. State Road 434, Longwood, 407-862-0400, pettysmeatmarket.com

Ararat Euro Food & Bistro

Organic produce from Local Roots, cold-pressed juice and vegan fare from Skyebird, cheesy comestibles from La Femme de Fromage, breads from Olde Hearth Bread Co., and Italian delights from Fatto in Casa. Open daily. 3201 Corrine Drive, 321-236-3316, eastendmkt.com

Europol Polish Deli Sausage is the main event. Ask for Polish sausage and be prepared for the follow-up question, “What kind?” Oldfashioned? Smoked? Beef? Pork? Made in Chicago, they’re sold by the stick and are all lean and delicious. Closed Sunday. 3090 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-678-0909

Food Factory Formerly known as Abu Maher International Grocery, this nook sells Mediterranean ingredients mostly hailing from Turkey and Greece. Find meats, cheeses, spices, condiments, stickysweet desserts and olives. Lots of olives.

Open daily. 6148 Hanging Moss Road, Winter Park; 407-677-8000

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Petty’s Meat Market

Phuoc Loc Tho Super Oriental Market All the ingredients you didn’t think you’d need and then some are at this massive Viet-owned superstore. Stock up on fresh lychee and longan in summer and a whole aisle of Japanese teas are at your fingertips. Open daily. 2100 E. Colonial Drive, 407-898-6858, superorientalmkt.com

Saigon Market Think you’ve seen pretty cakes? You ain’t seen không (Vietnamese for “nothing”) until you’ve spied this pastry case. Stock up on dried, canned, frozen and fresh ingredients, plus a wide selection of prepared foods. Open daily. 1232 E. Colonial Drive, 407-898-6899, saigonmarket.co n

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