RFT Food Lover's Guide 2023

Publisher Chris Keating

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A FOOD SCENE WITH DEPTH

When you think of a neighborhood restaurant, what words come to mind? Consistent, perhaps. Inviting. Established. An anchor of the community. A place for a weeknight dinner when you don’t want to cook. Somewhere that would change the essential character of the environs should it close its doors.

There is no specific set of requirements a place must meet in order to be considered a neighborhood eatery; it’s more a feeling — one that is difficult to define but you feel the moment you walk through the front doors. Dig into these characteristics, though, and you get the sense that in order for a restaurant to be considered a vital neighborhood spot, it has to have been around for time immemorial.

There is some truth to that. For a place to gain entry into the hearts and souls of its neighbors, it must establish trust, which can only be built over time. Relationships are im-

portant, and they are only built by repeated interaction.

However, every place has a beginning. This year, our annual neighborhood-based celebration of the restaurants that define the St. Louis dining landscape puts the spotlight on 10 newer places that are already destined to become the classics we will be talking about for years to come. In their short time in business, these eateries have solidified a place in the hearts of regulars and erased the memory of what the dining landscape was like before them.

As we celebrate St. Louis restaurants that have cemented their legacies, we are also excited about the ones that are working hard to make sure they, too, leave a lasting mark. Sorted by neighborhood and personally vetted, this curated list of the area’s essential dining spots will give you a comprehensive picture of the city’s exciting dining scene — one whose solid foundation is being continually reinforced, one great place at a time.

—Cheryl Baehr

City The

DOWNTOWN

Cinder House

At Cinder House (999 North Second Street, 314881-5759), acclaimed chef Gerard Craft has created a menu of dazzling South American-style dishes inspired by his Brazilian “Dia,” or childhood nanny. Small plates such as crab ceviche or crispy shrimp and squid evoke a Brazilian beachside barbecue, while entrees are one masterpiece after another. The five-star rendition of feijoada is a must-try, and meats grilled over a wood fire are as good as the offerings at any steakhouse in town. The food is made more thrilling by the stunning setting; the view from the eighth floor of the Four Seasons is simply awe-inspiring. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 8 a.m. Rooftop patio open daily from 2 p.m. to close.

Havana’s

After beginning as a stall at the Soulard Farmers Market, Havana’s (1131 Washington Avenue, 314-449-6671) became a food truck during the pandemic and, two years ago, a cheerful brickand-mortar on the western edge of downtown. The wait was worth it. The Cuban sandwich is justifiably owner Tamara Landeiro’s signature, but she proves time and again she can make anything magical between two slices of bread, including the pan con lechon, with succulent, slow-cooked pork atop Cuban bread, and even a ropa vieja sandwich. And it’s not just sandwiches — Landeiro excels with empanadas and croquettes. $. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Kimchi Guys

Located in Laclede’s Landing, the fast-casual Kimchi Guys (612 North Second Street, 314-7664456) serves Korean fried chicken along with

dumplings, sandwiches, Korean BBQ bowls and a host of Korean/Mexican fusion items like the Korrito (a burrito stuffed with kimchi-fried rice plus your choice of protein). Vegans aren’t ignored, with both bowls and “takos” available with spicy, marinated plant-based chicken. Thirsty? Kimchi Guys serves not only soda and water but the Korean beer Hite and soju, the vodka of Korea. $. Opens at 11 a.m. daily, with service until 8 p.m. Tuesday through Wednesday until 9 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

Rooster

Since taking over culinary operations for Bailey’s Restaurants in 2021, veteran chef Cassy Vires has left her mark on daytime mainstay Rooster (multiple locations including 1025 Washington Street, 314-241-8118), infusing the menu with her talented, homestyle touch. Adhering to a farm-to-table model and sourcing local ingredients, Vires’ menu offers a modern take on breakfast, featuring crêpes, scrambles and breakfast sandwiches, including vegan options. Settle in for a bountiful brunch at an eye-catching and practical community table that creates a beautiful centerpiece in a serene Downtown space while enjoying traditional coffee beverages, or branch out with a matcha mint latte or a Dreamsicle smoothie. If you need a little something spicy with your scrambled

A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2023

eggs, opt for a cocktail. $. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

LAFAYETTE SQUARE/SOULARD

The Bellwether

The main dining room at the Bellwether (1419 Carroll Street, 314-380-3086) is downright sexy with luxe velvet seating, brocade tapestries and Moroccan-inspired hanging lanterns. It might put you in the mood for indulgence, which is perfect because you’ll never want to stop eating the restaurant’s exquisite dishes. Entrees like venison osso bucco, braised in juniper and red wine, and shockingly fresh seafood ravioletti offer a modern take on elevated, globally influenced American fare. Also on offer is a list of delectable cocktails and a wonderfully curated wine list, filled with lesser-known varietals. Order something for yourself or your date and see where the night takes you. $$$. Sizeable rooftop patio. Open daily from 5 to 9 p.m. and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for brunch Saturday and Sunday.

Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse and Bourbon Bar

Hamilton’s (2101 Chouteau Avenue, 314-241-2333) is a high-caliber steakhouse, but it has a cozy, neighborhood feel to it — it’s the sort of place you’d go with business partners to celebrate closing a deal rather than the pretentious place you’d take a new client to seal it. Still, the menu hews to the template, with a show-stopping dry-aged ribeye and a terrific Kansas City strip. Unlike corporate steakhouse chains, Hamilton’s includes your choice of side dish with each steak. Get the roasted-garlic mashed potatoes. When the juice and rendered fat of that ribeye mingle with these garlic-laden beauties, you hear the angels sing. $$$. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Jack Nolen’s

For some top-notch smash burgers, look no further than Jack Nolen’s (2501 South Ninth Street), which serves its crispy-on-the-edge, meltyin-the-middle patties on potato buns. Owner Jim Grindstaff has been studying burgers for a while — even blogging about them — and has perfected a blend of chuck, short rib and brisket to create a quintessential burger patty. You can stack it up with a triple cheeseburger or get spicy with a Firecracker Burger complete with jalapeño relish. Not into meat? Check out the pesto grilled cheese or plant-based chicken nuggets. Or order the fries, which are a meal in their own right. We recommend the Bluetine Fries, a play on Canadian-style poutine. These are still covered with brown gravy, but instead of cheese curds, you get blue cheese crumbles on top. The no-frills Soulard establishment doesn’t have a phone, but you can order takeout online or dine in person. $. Closed Monday. Open Tuesday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sundays 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub and Garden

For 44 years, John D. McGurk’s (1200 Russell Boulevard, 314-776-8309) has been giving local bargoers an authentic taste of Ireland in the midst of St. Louis’ French quarter. Dimly lit and filled with exposed brick and dark wood, McGurk’s sprawling interior offers the preeminent place to experience a pint outside of the Emerald Isle — unless it’s a lovely autumn day, in which case you should enjoy that pint next to the fountain in the stunning courtyard. It’s no wonder Esquire named McGurk’s one of the best bars in America. A full menu of stickto-your-ribs food offerings pairs perfectly with the environment. $-$$. Gigantic patio. Opens at 4 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 11:30 Friday through Sunday.

Mayo Ketchup

Mandy Estrella, a.k.a. Plantain Girl, made her name holding pop-ups all over the metro with dishes from Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. That success led her to open a brick-and-mortar in the heart of Lafayette Square four years ago in the sunny storefront that old-timers remember as Arcelia’s. Mayo Ketchup (2001 Park Avenue, 314-696-2699) is extremely efficient — you can order on your phone or at the counter, and the takeout operation runs like a well-oiled machine (a very good thing during a global pandemic). But don’t mistake efficiency for soullessness; whether it’s a sampler full of treats like empanadas and fried plantains, or heartier offerings like rice bowls or sandwiches, the food here is lovingly prepared and graciously served. Linger over a cocktail or bring the kids for an early dinner; you’ll see plenty of regulars doing both. Sidewalk seating. $. Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Planter’s House

Planter’s House (1000 Mississippi Avenue, 314696-2603) is St. Louis’ temple to the cocktail. Together with his wife and fellow bartender

Jamie Kilgore and their partner Ted Charak, acclaimed mixologist Ted Kilgore has parlayed his expertise into the gold standard for bars in St. Louis: friendly staff serving up absolutely terrific cocktails in two of the handsomest rooms in town. The kitchen, captained by chef Sam Boettler, makes it possible to go to Planter’s House for a dinner of Moroccan-spiced rack of lamb or duck carbonara and leave satisfied even without having a cocktail. But this is Planter’s House; why on earth would you want to do that? $$. Patio. Open 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday. Open until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Polite Society

Sitting either at the attractive bar or in the dining room of Polite Society (1923 Park Avenue, 314-325-2553), you’ll feel like an invited guest in someone’s stylish Lafayette Square home. The menu has as much to offer someone looking for a cocktail and quick bite as someone looking for a multi-course dinner. Add to the mix a thoughtful beverage list and servers who provide easy hospitality and, well, let’s just say

that if the world was more like Polite Society, we’d all be happier. $$$. Open daily 5 to 9 p.m., with brunch Saturday and Sunday.

The Wood Shack

Chef Chris Delgado has imbued his quick-service restaurant the Wood Shack (1862 South 10th Street, 314-833-4770) with the sort of swagger typically reserved for more upscale establishments. From a cozy space on a tree-lined Soulard street, he smokes his own meats and serves top-notch sandwiches including the Soulard Primer, a prime rib sandwich that puts to shame every roast-beef sandwich that came before it. Meanwhile, the Three Cheesy Pigs is a pork lover’s dream, pairing peppery, thicksliced bacon with pulled pork and smoked ham on a French baguette with luscious comte cheese, pickled okra and pungent Champagne mustard. The standout side is the mac and cheese, a velvety concoction of corkscrew noodles and three-cheese sauce, its richness cut with crushed black peppercorns. $. Limited seating inside; picnic tables out front. Opens daily at 11 a.m.

NOTABLE IN BENTON PARK

Arzola’s Fajitas + Margaritas

If you’ve ever suffered through the dried-out, jerky-like strips of meat all too often passed off as steak fajitas in lesser Tex-Mex joints, you may bristle at the suggestion that the form can result in anything else. Arzola’s Fajitas + Margaritas (2730 McNair Avenue, 314-226-9672) will change your mind thanks to a pedigree that goes back over four decades to Austin, Texas. There, patriarch Eddie Arzola got his start in the restaurant business grilling meat on a pushcart in the city’s bustling entertainment district. He brought that experience with him to St. Louis, where he ran one of the area’s most beloved restaurants, Chuy’s Arzola in Dogtown, for 20 years. Now, nearly 15 years after that eatery closed, Arzola’s son Coby is carrying on the family’s legacy in Benton Park. At his year-old restaurant, he and his father

take the original as a jumping-off point to elevate the Tex-Mex experience. Together with Coby’s husband, Derek Fatheree, and chef Tanya Key, the younger Arzola has created an outstanding neighborhood restaurant filled with delights including mojo shrimp as fresh as if you were dining oceanfront, stunning burritos, outstanding overstuffed quesadillas and a large list of creative margaritas and craft cocktails. However, if you eat one thing at this gem of a restaurant, it has to be the steak fajitas. These tender petals of perfectly charred yet impossibly juicy flap steak are cooked atop lava rocks so that the fat renders, hits the rocks, then bastes the meat from the bottom. It’s a meaty masterpiece that will leave you realizing that you have never had a steak fajita until you’ve had one at Arzola’s.

MABEL SUEN

BENTON PARK & ITS NEIGHBORS

Benton Park Cafe

Last year, Benton Park Cafe (2901 Salena Street, 314-661-2368) regulars Elicia Eskew and Gavin Haslett took over the 15-year-old breakfast and lunch spot from co-founder Jessica Lenzen with an eye to carrying forward its legacy. The cafe got some light renovations before reopening with largely the same menu and the same coffee supplier. The morning menu holds a variety of standard breakfast pleasers — omelets, pancakes and whatnot — and a wide range of specialties such as the McGrittle This (a pancake egg sandwich) or the Chairman of the Board (steak, eggs, carb of choice). Lunch fare includes pizzas, soups, salads and a variety of themed sandwiches. Naturally, there’s a good espresso menu and other beverages. $. Open Monday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Blues City Deli

Since 2004, owner Vince Valenza has been the de facto ambassador of Benton Park, serving his impossibly good sandwiches to a crowd that turns this little stretch of south city into an impromptu street party any time the weather is good. Blues City Deli (2438 McNair Avenue, 314-773-8225) prides itself on having the feel of a “big old house party,” one where you’re likely to find yourself out back playing washers. Beer

only. $. Sidewalk seating. Open 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge

Chef/owner Frazer Cameron’s cooking strikes a balance between contemporary style, market freshness and good ol’ American comfort. The menu features steak, salmon and other popular dishes, but regulars know to check the chalkboards outside the kitchen for the specials: multiple catches of the day, a king crab boil, pork schnitzel — who knows, really? The cocktail list, too, is endlessly changing, with four seasons’ worth of selections in addition to a roster of classics. Few places are more fun to drink than the bar at Frazer’s (1811 Pestalozzi Street, 314-773-8646), which has not only excellent cocktails but a snazzy mid-century modern vibe. $$-$$$. Patio. Opens at 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Station No. 3

At Station No. 3 (1956 Utah Street, 314-925-3883), owners Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff tapped years of culinary cleverness developed at Frida’s and Diego’s to put together an ideal menu for plant-based eaters and omnivores alike. Set in a former gas station, the Benton Park spot delivers elevated American pub fare/barbecue: nachos, popcorn chicken, burgers, brisket sandwich. Most of it is vegan but so convincing in its meat mimicry you might never realize it. There’s also a small menu of flex items

containing animal proteins — a turkey burger or sandwich, a barramundi sandwich — so everyone in the party has something for them. Highlights include the vegan burnt ends, the Station Burger and the luscious soft serve. $$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from noon to 9 p.m.

Little Fox

When Craig and Mowgli Rivard moved from Brooklyn, New York, to Craig’s hometown of St. Louis in 2019, they imagined themselves opening a modern interpretation of the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. They found the perfect space in Fox Park, partnered with a prominent architecture and design firm, and put together a vibrant menu, exciting beverage program and a hospitality ethos that would become the lovely Little Fox (2800 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-553-9456). The pandemic blew up their ideas about what the place could be, but the husband-and-wife team clawed their way back up the cliff through innovation, adaptation and a refusal to cede their dream. The result of their tenacity is a Little Fox that feels even more vital to the neighborhood than it did before — and even landed a spot on the 2021 New York Times Restaurant List. $$-$$$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.

Lona’s Lil Eats

Owner Lona Lao hails from the remote south-

Mayo Ketchup. MABEL SUEN

western part of China — closer to Laos and Burma than Beijing — and her mother is Thai, and her father is part of the Lao Lao tribe, which boasts a rich barbecue culture. Lona’s Lil Eats (2199 California Avenue, 314-925-8938) draws its inspiration from her paternal heritage, but those other influences are woven into its fabric as well. Lao and her partner, Pierce Powers, opened their fast-casual restaurant in 2014 and have been wowing diners since. The menu is simple: dumplings, wraps and plates. But Lao’s flavor combinations are so unique and multilayered, your mouth will be dancing long after you finish your meal. $. Sidewalk seating. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Lucky Accomplice

When Logan Ely announced the opening of Lucky Accomplice (2501 South Jefferson Avenue, 314-354-6100) in 2020, he said he wanted a friendly neighborhood gathering place that his then-restaurant, Shift, could not fully be. He achieved that, and then some, without dimming in any way the luster he first brought to Shift. Dining at Lucky Accomplice will make you think differently about food even though it resists the pomp and circumstance of fine dining. Expect something soulful yet refined, like grilled pork collar with bok choy and crispy rice or Roman-style fermented potato gnocchi, as well as a top-notch cocktail list. $$$. Open Wednesday through Saturday for dinner and cocktails. Catch brunch from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and dinner from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Sundays.

Milque Toast Bar

More an open-faced sandwich shop than a fancy toast spot, this cozy McKinley Heights gem will make a believer out of even the most trend-averse skeptic. The “topped toasts” at Milque Toast (2212 South Jefferson Avenue, 314833-0085) — slathered with an ever-changing roster of toppings such as goat cheese covered with truffled mushrooms, or a luscious blue cheese version spiked with Louisiana hot sauce — are simply delicious, with soups, stews and a few sides completing the menu. Smoothies, malts and fun drinks like a hibiscus fizz change with the seasons. $. Patio. Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.

Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

For his sophomore effort, Sidney Street Cafe executive chef Kevin Nashan transformed the former Niche space in Benton Park into a whitewashed beach shack with the freshest seafood in town. Diners can feast on everything from lobster and crab boils to oyster po’boys to freshly shucked oysters and peeland-eat shrimp. The signature dish at Peacemaker (1831 Sidney Street, 314-772-8858) is its lobster roll. Served either Connecticut style, with drawn butter, or Maine style, with mayonnaise, the shockingly fresh meat is wrapped in a bun that is half brioche, half Texas toast. Meat lovers should not shy away from Peacemaker; its brisket sandwich rivals those served at the town’s best smokehouses. Boozy slushies add to the summer vacation vibe. $$$. Sidewalk seating. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Sidney Street Cafe

Chef Kevin Nashan’s cuisine is defined less by a particular genre than by a feeling — a sort of refinement of texture and flavor that comes from the hand of a master (is there a better seafood chef in town?). It’s no wonder that he’s achieved national recognition for his work, including the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest in 2017. The vibe at Sidney Street (2000 Sidney Street, 314-771-5777) is romantic, with exposed brick walls, a dark bar and knowledgeable servers who know their way around a wine list. You can get adventurous with an Asian-inflected appetizer from the ever-changing chalkboard list or order a steak with béarnaise. Either way, rest assured it’s been given Nashan’s Midas touch. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 5 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.

CENTRAL WEST END/ CORTEX

Bowood by Niche

In 2006, Bowood Farms set up shop in the Central West End, an outpost of its rural operation in Clarksville. The result was an urban oasis, complete with a charming cafe that celebrated the farm’s bounty. More than a dozen years later, acclaimed chef Gerard Craft took over the since-shuttered cafe and transformed the space into a culinary destination — with food as stunning as its environs. Set amid the foliage and botanical decor of the surrounding nursery, the new and improved Bowood by Niche (4605 Olive Street, 314-454-6868) is a gorgeous

Bowood by Niche. MABEL SUEN

sight to behold. But it’s not just the setting that makes it so magnificent. The restaurant boasts a menu of elegant breakfast and lunch fare — think cacio e pepe eggs and best-in-class egg salad — that has turned the eatery into a neighborhood essential. The nighttime menu, too, celebrates the season’s bounty with an ever-changing selection of flawlessly prepared dishes and wood-fired pizzas that are elevated, yet somehow feel like a warm hug. $$-$$$. Open for brunch Monday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Thursday through Monday for dinner from 5-9 p.m.

Brasserie by Niche

Gerard Craft’s take on a classic Parisian brasserie has become a mecca for St. Louis’ favorite French dishes, from a cheese-crusted crock of onion soup to a killer cassoulet. The emphasis at Brasserie (4580 Laclede Avenue, 314-454-0600) is on good ingredients prepared with skill and care, and while that doesn’t come cheap, the payoff is worth it. The roasted chicken, served with shiitakes and dripping jus on its thick-cut bread base, is a masterpiece. And don’t even

think of starting dinner without an order of gougères. $$$. Sidewalk seating. Dinner daily; brunch on Sunday.

Juniper

When you hear the name Juniper (4101 Laclede Avenue, 314-329-7696), the first thing that comes to mind is likely fried chicken. That’s for good reason. The restaurant has established itself as the city’s go-to for the Southern-style bird and has even earned national acclaim as the best place for fried chicken in Missouri. However, Juniper is no one-trick pony, also offering a sophisticated take on Southern cuisine ranging from the more traditional shrimp and grits to the upscale petite tender serving of beef. Sides are a must, and you’ll struggle to choose among the mac and cheese, collard greens and cornbread. A variety of bright cocktails accompanies the inspired menu. The restaurant just expanded its brunch hours, so you can now feast on its comforting fare Wednesday through Sunday days. $$-$$$. Seated dinner service 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday, with Friday

NOTABLE ON THE HILL

Sado

Since returning to St. Louis in 2017, Nick Bognar has made an indelible mark on the area’s food scene, beginning with his parents’ now-shuttered Nippon Tei, which he transformed from a classic Japanese eatery into an extraordinary sushi powerhouse. Two years later, he opened Indo, which fused his Thai heritage with the Japanese cooking that had made up a significant part of his culinary career. James Beard nods came, and the national press took note. Bognar’s sophomore spot, Sado (5201 Avenue, 314-390-2883), quickly became the area’s most buzzed-about restaurant even before it opened this past March. Just a couple of months in, it’s clear the hype is real. Located in the former Giovanni’s in the heart of the Hill,

Sado is a revelatory amalgam of Bognar’s culinary background, focusing mostly on his undeniable talent for sushi. At Sado, Bognar takes what he began at both Nippon Tei and Indo and runs with it to create the region’s definitive sushi program. However, he does not rest on his sushi skills alone but instead creates dazzling dishes using a variety of techniques, such as dry-aging his fish and cooking on a special yakitori grill. What makes Sado so special, though, is that — despite its dazzling sushi, thrilling cold appetizers and incredible beverage program — the restaurant aims to be as lighthearted and fun as it is serious about food, meeting diners where they are while also taking them to new heights. That Bognar and team can navigate this delicate balance shows their mastery.

and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Retreat Gastropub

Retreat (2 North Sarah Street, 314-261-4497) hits that sweet spot between an upscale bar that serves food and a full-fledged restaurant. It’s a trendy place that somehow never feels like it’s trying too hard. Credit goes to co-owners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins, who hit all the right notes in a menu that includes everything from a top-notch burger to braised pork gnocchi to smoked salmon dip. The cocktails are not simply exceptional — they come from Wiggins’ deft hand, which helped spur the city’s thriving cocktail movement. $$. Screenedin sunroom and sidewalk seating. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; opens at 4 p.m. all other days.

Scottish Arms

Scottish Arms (8 South Sarah Street, 314-5350551) owner Ally Nisbet, a native Scot, has created an invitingly dark and welcoming pub, perfect for downing pints or attempting to down haggis (which is actually good!). The fish and chips are the best in town; the bangers and mash will warm your belly. But it’s not all classics; the restaurant’s take on seasonal, modern cuisine shows an equally deft hand. There’s a great scotch and whiskey list and also a superior draft beer selection. $$-$$$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.

Pi Pizzeria

Pi Pizzeria (400 North Euclid Avenue, 314-3674300) offers an upscale setting with dim lighting, a classy vibe and a large bar, perfect for sampling its great cocktails. At this popular eatery, you can choose between thin- or deepdish-crust pizzas — both with the restaurant’s signature cornmeal dusting — with an array of toppings including fontina cheese or fresh basil. Or try the namesake pizza, the Central West End, which includes mozzarella, Volpi prosciutto, goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, red onions and arugula. Gluten-free crust, vegan meat substitutes and vegan cheese are available on all pies. $$. Sidewalk seating. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.

Vicia

Vicia (4260 Forest Park Avenue, 314-553-9239) feels like a contemporary farmhouse, with whitewashed exposed brick, pale wooden tables and white-framed windows that separate the bar from the dining room. A large woodfired hearth is where much of the cooking takes place — and it’s absolutely transcendent. The “vegetable-forward” dishes on Chef Michael Gallina’s tasting menus are stunningly composed and imbued with intention. His Berkshire pork may have you wondering whether you’ve ever eaten pig before, just as his chicken-fried carrots will have you questioning whether you need meat at the center of the plate at all. No wonder the national press named Vicia one of the best new restaurants in the nation. $$$$. Enclosed patio. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

IZAIAH JOHNSON

Yellowbelly

Located in the ultra-sleek Citizen Park building on the corner of Lindell and Euclid, Yellowbelly (4659 Lindell Boulevard, 314-499-1509) has the feel of a boutique hotel in present-day Waikiki. You could call it “modern Hawaiian chic,” but Yellowbelly is not a Hawaiian restaurant. Instead, it takes the 50th state as a jumping-off point for dishes that include Spam-fried rice or Hawaiian roll sandwiches. Other offerings have a broader seafood focus, though the burger is also divine. However, the real star of Yellowbelly is mixologist (and co-owner) Tim Wiggins, whose beautiful, modern tiki cocktails anchor the concept. The menu includes world-class renditions of such quintessential rum-based concoctions as painkillers and daiquiris. You’ll be pleased with Yellowbelly’s food; you’ll be blown away by its drinks. $$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, with additional hours on Saturday.

MIDTOWN/ GRAND CENTER

BLK MKT Eats

This hip counter-service spot was the first in St. Louis to offer the sushi burrito. But that’s not all it’s serving. Like Chipotle and its many imitators, the various proteins at BLK MKT Eats (9 South Vandeventer Avenue, 314-391-5100)

can be prepared in a few different styles: a sushi burrito, wrapped in nori and packed with sticky rice; a poke bowl, with white or brown rice; an arugula-based salad; or nachos, with crispy fried wonton triangles as the base and garnished with a variety of toppings that include avocados, arugula, sesame seeds, shallots, scallions, tempura crunchies and the signature OG Fire sauce. It’s a messy masterpiece. $. Very limited seating. Open Monday through Saturday from noon until evening.

Bulrush

Enjoying a meal at Chef Rob Connoley’s Grand Center eatery feels like getting both dinner and a show — without any cheesy dinner theater vibes. At Bulrush (3307 Washington Avenue, 314-449-1208), you’ll dine on a tasting menu of dishes using only ingredients native to Missouri before the railroads made it easy to bring in foodstuffs. Then, armed with videos accessible via the menu’s QR codes, you’ll also hear Connoley’s tasting notes, which might incorporate diaries from the 1860s or research into native plants. With dark wood tables arranged in a rectangle around the open kitchen, and diners seated to face the action instead of across from each other, the focus is on the food and the charmingly erudite chef, who made his name foraging in New Mexico but has since become synonymous with the hitherto underappreciated cuisine of his native Ozarks. Pre-paid tick-

ets are required and, at $115/person, include tax and gratuity. $$$$. Open 5 to 10 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.

Food Hall at City Foundry

The excitement that continues to surround the ever-expanding Food Hall at City Foundry (3730 Foundry Way) is understandable: After all, why go out to eat at just one restaurant when you could visit more than a dozen in one shot? The Food Hall is the home to 17 different St. Louis dining establishments, including such gems as Kalbi Taco Shack, Hello Poke, Fordo’s Killer Pizza, Chicken Scratch Rotisserie and the only place in town solely dedicated to the mighty t-rav, STL Toasted. Disagreements over where to dine out become a thing of the past, and picky eaters pose no problem here, as cuisines from around the world are on offer all under one roof. With its elevated food court vibes and chic industrial styling, the Food Hall truly has something for everyone. $-$$$. Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Tuesday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Fountain on Locust

Long before the city’s nouveau ice cream shops started offering boozy flavors and ice cream cocktails, Fountain on Locust (3037 Locust Street, 314-535-7800) was on the scene, blending ice cream with alcohol for a cool dose of yum.

Bulrush.

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The city’s OG ice cream parlor offers a voluminous menu of ice cream martinis, which go down smooth but also carry quite a kick. A roster of well-executed retro cocktails, from the rusty nail to the sazerac, also feels just right in the high-spirited, Art Deco environs. Because dessert isn’t everything, Fountain on Locust also offers down-home entrees, including an outstanding French onion roast beef melt and an addictive dill-pickle soup that is much better than you’d ever dream. $. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesdays through Fridays.

Pappy’s Smokehouse

Since opening in 2008, this Midtown counter-service eatery has set the standard for ’cue in the Lou, thrusting St. Louis into the conversation as one of the best barbecue cities in the country and attracting visits from just about every rock star and pro athlete passing through the city. Credit goes to cofounder and pitmaster emeritus Mike Emerson, who as the face of Pappy’s turned what he anticipated would be a simple smokehouse into a place that regularly sees lines snake around the block. Pappy’s (3106 Olive Street, 314-535-4340) has become such a phenomenon that you might wonder if the fanfare is nothing but hype. Quite the contrary. Pappy’s delectable smoked meats, in particular the dry-rubbed apple- and cherry-wood smoked ribs, leave no doubt that this is the real deal. $$. Opens at 11 a.m.; closed Monday and Tuesday. Frequently sells out. No alcohol.

Saucy Porka

At first, when news broke that Chicago-based Saucy Porka (3900 Laclede Avenue, 314-8182700) planned to open a location in Midtown, St. Louisans didn’t quite know what to think. Our melting pot of a city boasts several culinary niches but … Asian Latin American fusion? Saucy Porka showed us what’s up. Its menu is a thrilling blend of culinary traditions that somehow makes sense. The restaurant first launched in Chicago in 2013 after chef Amy Le and then-collaborator Rafael Lopez discovered their respective cuisines — hers Asian and his Puerto Rican — had similar and complementary flavors. Lopez has since pursued a career outside of the industry, though Le continues what they started with Saucy Porka’s location in St. Louis, which she runs with her brother, Phil Le. Thank the culinary gods they did. Where would we be without chorizo egg rolls and Nutella doughnut bites? $. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Small Batch

Restaurateur David Bailey takes the whiskey-bar trend in an unexpected direction with his vegetarian eatery Small Batch (3001 Locust Street, 314-380-2040). Bailey doesn’t bill the place as a crunchy vegetarian spot; instead, he hopes diners will enjoy the vegetable-focused concept so much that they fail to miss the meat. The mind-blowingly flavorful gemelli pasta, tossed with tomatoes, eggplant, capers, Szechuan sauce, chili oil and Calabrian chiles, proves that it’s not an impossible dream. Small

Batch’s bourbon selection and creative cocktails are also impressive, and the gorgeous vintage setting provides an ideal spot to indulge in Prohibition-era drinking. $$. Open 4 to 11 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

Southern

Southern (3108 Olive Street, 314-531-4668) is the undisputed champion of the hot-chicken genre in St. Louis — if not anywhere (shhh, don’t tell the folks in Nashville), a reputation solidified by its impossibly juicy, so hot it will make you hiccup, deep-fried bird. It’s so good it’s almost masochistic — the heat stings your throat and makes your eyes water, but the chicken is so damn flavorful you don’t want to stop. And it’s only part of Southern’s story. Catfish, biscuits and mac-and-cheese casserole make this wonderful Midtown spot much more than a hot-chicken restaurant. $. Opens at 11 a.m.; closed Monday and Tuesday. No alcohol.

Turn

A former DJ, Turn’s chef/owner David Kirkland says cooking is a lot like spinning music — the physical movements, the energy, the constant pressure to be on top of what comes next. At his delightful Grand Center cafe Turn (3224 Locust Street, 314-240-5157), Kirkland may as well be Beethoven, concocting a symphony of flavors that has us dancing in our seats. An expert at infusing his dishes with local, seasonal ingredients, Kirkland shows a restrained hand on even traditionally heavy offerings like biscuits and gravy or chorizo-covered arepas. His flavors are refined and impeccably presented in a light, airy eatery that looks like a modern museum cafe. It’s a fitting setting for such artful food. $-$$. Opens at 9 a.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

THE GROVE

Chao Baan

There’s such a diversity of regional cuisines on

the menu at Chao Baan (4087 Chouteau Avenue #5, 314-925-8250) that it’s hard to believe such a restaurant could exist. It’s owned by the Prapaisilp family, and the menu showcases the food that the family cooked and ate at home, a fusion of northern and southern Thai representing lesser-known regional flavors of the country’s diverse culinary heritage. Dishes such as the appetizer mieng kham green leaf wraps with toasted coconut, dried shrimp, lime and fiery chile dazzle. There’s also a smoky take on gaeng sum, a spicy and sour green curry soup featuring white fish and papaya. In a modern but welcoming space in the Grove neighborhood, Chao Baan is one of the most thrilling — and unlikely — Thai experiences in town. $$. Opens at 4 p.m. daily.

Confluence Kombucha

Confluence Kombucha (4507 Manchester Avenue, 314-833-3059) sits on the western edge of the Grove, a plant-based serenade in a neighborhood known for its pulsing beat. Though the restaurant is primarily a kombucha bar, its dishes offer funk, tang, sweet, crunch and chew — a complex symphony of flavor, texture and color so unlike anything you’ve previously experienced that they fill the mind as fully as the stomach. The commitment to vegetable-forward cuisine does not limit what is offered, but rather delivers innovation, whether through transcendent tempeh, Thai green curry stew, chickpea tofu or the several kombucha flavors, which feature everything from local Missouri paw paw to Asian pear. Diners don’t need to be hippies or vegetarians to thoroughly enjoy the experience. $$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Thursday through Sunday.

DuckBill at Platypus

What do you get when you cross two of St. Louis’ top cocktail artists with one of the city’s hottest up-and-coming chefs? Why, it’s Platypus (4501 Manchester Avenue, 314-448-1622), of course, the Grove hotspot for sophisticated

Saucy Porka.

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drinks, live music and, through its DuckBill food concept, some of the tastiest small bites in town. Acclaimed bartenders Meredith Barry and Tony Saputo helm Platypus’ bar side, with the integrated DuckBill concept coming via chef Grant Heman, whose outstanding popcorn chicken makes a strong case for being some of the city’s best fried bird. The food counter may be humble, but Heman puts his heart and soul into his chicken, as well as delicious fried tofu, caramelized brussels sprouts and housemade dipping sauces. As dazzling as the bar side is, DuckBill makes an equally compelling case for being one of the neighborhood’s essential eateries. $. Kitchen open from 4 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. daily. Bar closes at 1:30 a.m.

Everest Cafe & Bar

At Everest (4145 Manchester Avenue, 314-5314800), you’ll find a mix of Nepalese, Korean and Indian dishes prepared with fresh, healthy ingredients. Chef/owner Devi Gurung States earned his doctorate in public health, and the menu is chock-full of organic vegetables, with no processed foods, butter or heavy creams. Choose from the simple pleasures of momos (steamed pork dumplings from Tibet) or the complex interplay of meat, vegetables and spices that fill daal bhat tarkari, a complete Nepalese meal with lentil soup, rice, meat, vegetables and spicy achars. $-$$. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Monday for dinner, with a lunch buffet from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Grace Meat + Three

A glance at the menu of good ol’ country cooking at Grace Meat + Three (4270 Manchester Avenue, 314-533-2700) might lead you to believe that chef/owner Rick Lewis cut his teeth in the kitchen of a homestyle cafeteria — not in some of the city’s finest white-tablecloth establishments. However, when you taste Lewis’ cooking, you’ll quickly realize that behind his self-described “blue-collar” dishes lies the refinement and skill of a great culinary talent. It’s a marriage of haute blue-plate specials and down South after-church fare wrapped in bacon and sopped up with a biscuit. Counter service. $-$$. Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

The Gramophone

When the Gramophone (4243 Manchester Avenue, 314-531-5700) announced several years ago that it was switching gears from being a music club to a “sandwich pub,” music fans were seriously bummed out — but they shouldn’t have been. The sandwiches here are simply spectacular, with creative combinations of quality ingredients piled high. Add a side of loaded mashed potatoes or broccoli salad, and you’ve got a solid base to soak up no small amount of booze. Which is a good thing, since the vibe here remains distinctly conducive to drinking. It’s a great combo. $. Patio. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m.

Pie Guy Pizza

Pie Guy Pizza (4189 Manchester Avenue, 314899-0444) isn’t much bigger than a garage,

with one metal communal table in the center and a counter separating the kitchen from the rest of the restaurant. It serves pizza and pretty much only pizza. Yet it’s well-worth a visit. Co-owner Mitch Frost uses a sourdough base that’s been cold-fermented for three days. The thin crust is crispy and full of flavor, with big slices that can be folded in the classic New York style — a true taste of the Big Apple’s most delicious export. $. Open Wednesday through Sunday.

Songbird

The lovely Songbird (4476 Chouteau Avenue, 314-781-4344) , located just blocks from the Grove on the northern edge of Forest Park Southeast, is a perfect reason to get up for breakfast after a wild night out in the bars down the street — or a reason to call it a night early. The food is locally sourced and lovingly prepared, and the thoughtful service is a far cry from what you’ll get at high-volume breakfast spots. Mains include several breakfast sandwiches — the must-try Classic put the restaurant on the map — a

kale frittata and a breakfast tamale. Or try an entree-sized salad; offerings change with the seasons but are never less than delicious. $. Open Thursday through Monday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Sultan Mediterranean

Kurdish immigrants Akram Saeed and Jenar Mohammed are serving the food of their homeland in a striking space, with large windows overlooking Manchester and charming accents that reference the family’s heritage. The colorful chandeliers are from Turkey; the golden-hued tea sets displayed on a shelf near the dessert counter came directly from Kurdistan. House specialties include the Sultan Pilau, a Kurdish pastry that wraps lamb, rice, almonds and chickpeas in layers of phyllo dough. And instead of merely serving the stuffed grape leaves familiar to American diners, Sultan (4200 Manchester Avenue, 314-3902020) stuffs zucchini, tomato and even eggplant. $-$$. Open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday. No alcohol.

NOTABLE IN BRENTWOOOD

Maize & Wheat

Acomputer programmer by trade, Claudia Niswonger got drafted into the restaurant business after her daughter volunteered her mom to make her outstanding Colombian-style arepas for the local Hispanic festival circuit. When her handiwork sold out early on her first outing, Niswonger realized she was on to something. She quit her full-time job to devote her energy to bringing traditional South American specialties to St. Louis, dreaming all the while with her son about one day opening a brick-andmortar restaurant. After her son’s unexpected passing in 2019, Niswonger channeled her grief into making their dream a reality, opening the Colombian cafe Maize & Wheat (1912 South Brentwood Boulevard, Brentwood;

314-749-4778) in November of 2021. Here, Niswonger dazzles diners with her excellent arepas, thick and fluffy discs of white corn stuffed with ingredients such as cheese and shredded beef as succulent as pot roast. Her empanadas are equally outstanding. Their flaky shells and mouth-watering fillings make it clear why Niswonger garnered a reputation for her wares on the festival circuit, while dishes like Colombian sausages, shrimp ceviche and chicken soup straight from a grandmother’s South American kitchen show her range. Niswonger has an even bigger vision for the restaurant and talks of putting in a coffee bar and launching a frozen food line. With food this good, there’s no limit to what she can achieve.

MABEL SUEN

SHAW/BOTANICAL HEIGHTS

Elaia

In November 2012, Ben Poremba descended upon a forgotten swath of the city called McRee Town and opened a small, fiercely ambitious restaurant in a former drug house. With a menu of elegant, Mediterranean-inflected cuisine, a world-class wine list and impeccable service standards, Elaia (1634 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-932-1088) quickly landed in the pantheon of the city’s best restaurants. Since then, Poremba has launched a mini-empire of restaurants that represents the best of the city’s dining scene, and McRee Town (now called Botanical Heights) has become a major dining destination. Through it all, Elaia has remained his flagship, a gallery of culinary elegance. The à la carte menu, served alongside the restaurant’s traditional tasting menu, only serves to make that elegance more approachable. $$$$. Opens at 5:30 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.

Indo

Headed by James Beard Award semifinalist

Nick Bognar, Indo (1641D Tower Grove Avenue, 314-899-9333) combines his stunning command of sushi with the Thai cuisine that is his heritage as the son of Nippon Tei owners Ann and Mike Bognar. Offering Hot and Cool Tastings, larger shareable plates and an impressive nigiri selection, Indo’s menu respects tradition without being married to it. Instead, Bognar uses classic techniques and recipes as a jumping-off point for exploration, whether with candied pine nuts in lamb laarb or a rice flour and water “lace” that lies atop two flawlessly cooked gyoza. Though Indo offers an indulgent omakase, as a whole it’s not a fine-dining restaurant, despite being thoroughly luxurious. Rather, it’s a revolution. $$$. Opens at 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

Nixta

Nixta (1621 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-899-9000) has seen significant change since its debut, switching chefs a few times as well as regional focuses. But the restaurant still remains true to its original vision: to be a forum for exploring upscale Mexican cuisine that causes American diners to check their preconceptions. An ethos like that transcends individual plates — and results in transcendent food. Don’t miss the crispy octopus, which has become Nixta’s signature dish. A mezcal focus keeps the cocktail list as smokily sexy as the low-lit bar area. $$$. Patio. Opens at 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Olio

It’s no surprise that Ben Poremba’s Israeli-inflected wine bar Olio (1634 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-932-1088) serves up great food. Poremba, after all, is one of the city’s most acclaimed chefs. What might be surprising to first-time visitors, though, is just how much it retains its bar feel, even though the menu items it’s serving are good enough to carry a restaurant. Located in

a renovated Standard Oil filling station, the quarters are close, lending an intimate vibe. Poremba’s food is a stunning reflection of his Israeli-Moroccan heritage, like hummus studded with almonds, pine nuts and braised lamb shoulder, and egg salad that has become legendary in the metro area. $$-$$$. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

SweetArt

For 13 years, owner and baker Reine Keis has been sharing her culinary talents with guests at her beloved Shaw neighborhood cafe SweetArt (2203 South 39th Street, 314-771-4278) in the form of some of the area’s most delicious and artfully presented baked goods and daytime fare. Originally envisioned only as a pastry shop, SweetArt has evolved over the years into a full-blown breakfast and lunch spot; now completely vegan, it appeals to plant-based eaters and omnivores equally, in part because of the food (that buffalo cauliflower!), but also because of the warm, welcoming environment guests feel the moment they walk through the front door. $. Open Wednesday through Saturday from 8 a.m. until 4 p.m.

Union Loafers

The lunch menu at Union Loafers (1629 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-833-6111) is simple — a ham-and-cheddar sandwich, chicken-andrice soup, even a humble PB&J — but it’s the best version of simple food you will ever have. There is also what may be the best salad known to man, the Little Gem, a mix of lettuces, herbs, breadcrumbs and buttermilk dressing that is so transcendent you’ll wake up in the middle of the night craving it. Indeed, once you’ve ordered it, this salad will be the first thing that comes to mind any time someone mentions Union Loafers — the city’s best bread shop. This doesn’t just say a lot about the Little Gem; it speaks volumes to just how much care head baker Ted Wilson and company put into everything they do. $-$$. Patio. Lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday with an entirely different pizza-based menu from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

DOGTOWN

Hi-Pointe Drive-In

Mike Johnson made his name with the Sugarfire chain, but Hi-Pointe Drive-In (multiple locations including 1033 McCausland Avenue, 314-3492720) proved he’s much more than a one-trick pony. The modern counter-service diner offers a mouthwatering mix of burgers, shakes (boozy and un-), sandwiches and salads. While you could order a salad, this is no place for restraint. The burgers here are over-the-top decadent — and also over-the-top good, with a perfect mix of brisket, chuck and short rib that glistens with rendered fat, served on a soft potato bun. Why not order a double — or get one piled high with bacon? $. Sizable patio. Opens at 11 a.m. on weekdays and 10 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday.

Mac’s Local Eats

Mac’s (5656 Oakland Avenue, 314-393-7713) won’t let you eat any old cow (or pig). Living up to its name, the restaurant works with local farms that humanely pasture-raise their animals. Then Mac’s uses the whole cow, not just offcuts, and dry ages its beef for 28 days. The result is in the taste, with lacy thin patties that pack a wallop of hearty flavor that pair amazingly well with the restaurant’s signature Rip Fries, hand-cut french fries dusted in Red Hot Riplets seasoning. After years as a food counter in other establishments, Mac’s has happily settled into permanent digs — a fitting setup for an iconic St. Louis burger joint. $. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Michael’s Bar & Grill

Fan favorites at Michael’s Bar & Grill (7101 Manchester Avenue, 314-644-2240) include the gyro salad and the wings. That’s right, it’s a Greek and American tavern where you can get saganaki, dolmades and spanakopita alongside New York strip steak, a burger or steak fries. The concept began in 1979, when Greek immigrant Michael Malliotakis bought a place called Nick’s Little Pebble. It had belonged to his then-father-in-law, who had just found out he had cancer and needed to step away from the business. Nick’s was “rough,” according to Katina Malliotakis, the current proprietor of Michael’s Bar & Grill. But through four decades of careful stewardship (and a name change), the place is now a St. Louis mainstay. $$. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Patio seating.

Nomad

Tommy Andrew’s stylishly modern counter-service restaurant connected to the Tamm Avenue Bar serves what critic Cheryl Baehr calls “unarguably the best pastrami in town — if not the state, or even the entire planet.” But that’s not the only thing to eat at Nomad (1221 Tamm Avenue, 314-696-2360). Try sandwiches that include a cauliflower gyro, sides including kimchi brussels sprouts or arancini, or even a ridiculously decadent pastrami poutine, which tops french fries with white gravy, molten Provel, scallions and crumbles of pastrami. No matter what, you won’t leave hungry. $-$$. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

The Pat Connolly Tavern

Opened in 1942 by an Irish immigrant, the Pat Connolly Tavern (6400 Oakland Avenue, 314-647-7287) is the canvas on which much of Dogtown’s green, white and orange history was painted. Over the decades, the venerable bar and grill has mastered the classic Irish pub formula: a down-to-earth atmosphere, friendly service and cold Guinness, and a menu of classic pub food that harkens back to its mid-century origins. The famous fried chicken remains among the best in town; a kids’ menu means this is the rare pub where you really can bring the whole family. $. Closed Monday and Tuesday; opens every other day at 11 a.m.

Southwest Diner

If you think Southwest Diner (6803 Southwest Avenue, 314-260-7244) is named after the street on which it resides, you haven’t had the New Mexican Breakfast Burrito, a green-chile-infused fire bomb of a breakfast that will make you think you’re at a roadside shack outside of Santa Fe rather than a diner on the western edge of St. Louis. This beloved daytime spot serves up Southwestern-inflected specialties to bleary-eyed customers who are not afraid of heat. If you are spice averse, stay as far as you can from Jonathan’s Famous Fiery Scramble, a cheesy egg concoction filled with enough heat to make you break a sweat. $. Opens at 7 a.m. on Monday, Thursday and Friday and at 8 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.

TOWER GROVE SOUTH AND EAST

Basil India

Madan Chhetri, one of the best chefs in St. Louis, spends his days and nights preparing the curries, noodles and various other Indo-Chinese, Thai and Indian dishes featured at Basil India (3183 South Grand Boulevard, 314-428-9711)

The place is owned by the team behind the Delmar Loop Indian restaurant Turmeric and offers dishes such as Tangra-style chili paneer, a flash-fried corn-cake appetizer and a luxurious Bombay curry. The butter chicken is rich,

with tender chunks of chicken swimming in a tomato-based sauce seasoned with fenugreek, giving it a deep, maple-like flavor. Similar dishes can be found at other restaurants, but every dish at Basil India makes you feel like you are experiencing it for the first time. $-$$. No alcohol. Opens at 11:30 a.m. Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Opens at 9:30 a.m. Saturday. Closed Wednesday.

Black Sheep Whiskey & Wine

Owners Zach and Mary Rice’s Black Sheep

Whiskey & Wine (3153 Morgan Ford Road, 314772-9800) offers a sophisticated but casual, dimly lit but family-friendly atmosphere in what used to be Three Monkeys, a longtime Morgan Ford favorite. Black Sheep is great for date nights or family dinners out. Offerings range from the high-concept to classic fare. The Bloody Mary deviled eggs feature a creamy yolk mixture that tastes exactly like the classic brunch cocktail with notes of celery salt. The classic smash burger is exactly what you want at your local watering hole, while elevated offerings like pan-seared trout or braised short ribs give guests the chance to make it a special occasion spot. $$. Open Wednesday through Saturday from 4 to 11 p.m.

Brasilia

The lounge at Brasilia (3212 South Grand Boulevard, 314-932-1034) is a bossa-nova-inflected dream world. “The Girl from Ipanema” plays

on a loop while reed-fashioned hammocks hang from the ceiling and a giant mural of Christ the Redeemer takes up an entire wall. After two of Brasilia’s stiff caipirinhas, you might be convinced you’re viewing the famed statue from a spot on Copacabana Beach. A solid set of entrees includes vatapa de frango (a boneless, skinless chicken breast with traditional cashew nut gravy) and beef acebolado, Brazil’s version of skillet steak, flecked with coarse black peppercorns and served sliced with onions and peppers on a searing hot castiron skillet. $$. Open Wednesday through Sunday for dinner. Lunch buffet Sunday.

Grand Pied

What began as owners Tony Collida and Jaimee Stang’s love letter to New Orleans has evolved, as Grand Pied (3137 Morgan Ford Road, 314-974-8133) has weathered COVID-19, the flu and even losing its bar. After all that change, the MoFo eatery has become an ode to perfectly executed brunch-tolunch staples inflected with flavors from the Big Easy. Those dishes range from some of St. Louis’ finest pancakes — which sport a crisp, golden, nutty crust that gives way to a custard-like interior — to baby beignets, dusted with butter and cinnamon or served with sausage gravy, to a slinger that balances restraint and indulgence. The bistro only serves tables of two or four, and ordering is done through QR codes at each table. BYOB. $$. Patio. Open Thursday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Black Sheep Whiskey & Wine. MABEL SUEN

Pizza Head

A no-frills counter-service spot, Pizza Head (3196 South Grand Boulevard, 314-266-5400) seems to turn any high-falutin’ notions of the “art” of pizza-making on its head. Purchased by Dylan Dodson and Sam Driemeier in January 2022, Pizza Head can cater to anyone — omnivores, vegetarians and vegans — though the proprietors promise to expand their vegan options and charitable donations in the future. The transcendent slices begin with a rich, chewy crust that has the subtle tang of sourdough and ends with a journey through a delightfully greasy mozzarella or cashew-alternative topping. Beer and wine only. $. Opens at noon Thursday through Monday.

Salve Osteria

St. Louis mourned when South Grand’s Cafe Natasha’s closed, but now the city has reason to rejoice again: Salve Osteria (3200 South Grand Boulevard, 314-771-3411) is a new Italian, Spanish and Mediterranean-inspired restaurant that occupies its former home. A complement to the Gin Room, which also operates in the space, the restaurant has a harvest-centric menu that pairs well with Gin Room cocktails. Get your G&T with bacon-fat carrots or have a negroni with lamb arancini. Not into gin? There’s also an extensive natural wine list. $$. Patio. Open Thursday through Sunday 3 to 10 p.m.

Sheesh Restaurant

Brother and sister Safa and Zaenab Marmarchi spared no expense in opening this Turkish restaurant on South Grand, bringing in chefs from their motherland in addition to striking copper tables and colorful tapestries. That care also shows in the food, which is executed with precision. The lamb biryani’s soft meat almost falls off the bone, its bed of rice studded with raisins, chickpeas and subtle spicing. Order the hummus appetizer, and you won’t just get the usual mass-produced pita bread.

Sheesh (3226 South Grand Boulevard, 314-8334321) serves it with a giant, lightly charred puff, perfectly baked so there’s just a fine layer of crisp around the warm center. No alcohol. $$. Open daily from 5 to 10 p.m.

Terror Tacos

Brothers and longtime vegans Bradley Roach and Brian Roash created the type of irreverent, loud, in-your-face vegan restaurant they always wanted to eat at when they debuted Terror Tacos (3191 South Grand Boulevard, 314260-9996) in March 2021. The restaurant’s interior, with its punk-rock music and graffiti-style décor, speaks to that vibe. So does the menu, which is filled with sassily titled dishes such as the Carnage Asada Burrito and a flight of tacos named Basic Witch. Terror Tacos taps veggie proteins from tofu to seitan and transforms them into flavorful fare packed with all the hallmarks of the best Americanized Mexican restaurant. There is also a full menu of cocktails, beer and seltzers. $. Sidewalk seating. Open Monday through Thursday from noon to 9 p.m. Open Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Tree House

Bay Tran first opened Tree House (3177 South Grand Boulevard, 314-696-2100) a decade ago with numerous vegetarian menu items that could be modified as vegan, but the vegan offerings proved so popular she’s now made them the default in many cases. In a stylish dining room overlooking South Grand, she’s serving a menu with highlights including a fried beet appetizer, thickly sliced into a French-fry-like shape with a crisp outside and a coating of sea salt and togarashi. The brussels sprouts salad is also beloved, with red and green cabbage joining shallots, fresh herbs, jalapeño and sweet chile vinaigrette. Weekend brunch is a highlight; the ambitious cocktail program proves that organic and sustainable don’t preclude fun. $$. Patio. Open Wednesday

through Sunday for dinner, with brunch Saturday and Sunday.

THE HILL & ITS NEIGHBORS

Anthonino’s Taverna

For nearly two decades, Anthonino’s Taverna (2225 Macklind Avenue, 314-773-4455) has been serving St. Louis diners a taste of Anthony and Rosario Scarato’s joint Greek and Italian heritage in a setting as warm and family-friendly as the brothers’ home. Dolmades and pizza, chicken Parmesan and gyros, pastas and sandwiches all beg you to play favorites, but the toasted ravioli is the must-order on this menu. $$. Sidewalk seating. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Carnivore

The Hill’s first steakhouse, Carnivore (5257 Shaw Avenue, 314-449-6328) offers a more reasonable price point than the national chains, and each cut comes with a salad or your choice of side. The dining room has a more modern vibe, too, with a colorful mural of the neighborhood on one wall, white-painted brick and big windows facing Shaw Avenue. But Carnivore is not lacking for decadence; top your steak with a house butter, including garlic and herb, blue cheese or garlic Parmesan. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Gioia’s

An institution since 1918, Gioia’s Deli (multiple locations including 1934 Macklind Avenue, 314776-9410) began its life as a grocery store but is now a sandwich shop with four locations. The original is on the Hill, a friendly counter-service shop named an “America’s Classic” by no less than the James Beard Foundation. Gioia’s is most famous for its hot salami, or Salam de Testa: a thick, soft salami made from beef and — yes — pork snouts. The flavor is rich, earthy and delicious. Try it on its own or in the Italian Trio with mortadella and Genoa salami, peperoncini, onions and cheese on toasted garlic bread. Gioia’s salsiccia is tasty, too, especially smothered with melted mozzarella cheese. $. Patio. Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Farmhaus

No chef is better at capturing the spirit of Midwestern fine dining than the multiple James Beard nominee Kevin Willmann, whose beloved Clifton Heights restaurant is a comfortable setting for enjoying the area’s bounty. Any chef worth his or her salt these days uses local, seasonal ingredients, but at Farmhaus (3257 Ivanhoe Avenue, 314-647-3800) these are less components and more the restaurant’s entire reason for being. You see elements of Willmann’s upbringing on the Gulf Coast in his seafood dishes, but the restaurant remains all Missouri — and this place has never tasted so good. $$$$. Open Wednesday through Saturday

Terror Tacos.

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from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

O’Connell’s Pub

If you think they don’t make them like O’Connell’s Pub (4652 Shaw Avenue, 314-773-6600) any more, you’re right. The nearly 100-yearold restaurant is appealingly dim with a tin ceiling, dark wood bar and some surprisingly ornate chandeliers. The kitchen serves up the prior century’s greatest hits without irony — you can get a cup or bowl of chili, a chicken breast sandwich topped with Swiss and grilled onions, a house salad with iceberg lettuce. The big draw is the burgers, cooked to order. Get a basket of onion rings on the side or fried mushrooms. $. Open 11 a.m. to midnight, Monday through Saturday.

Pizzeria da Gloria

There’s no shortage of good Italian food in St. Louis’ Hill neighborhood, but Pizzeria da Gloria (2024 Marconi Avenue, 314-833-3734) stands out in a tough market. Located by St. Ambrose Catholic Church and the fabulous Piazza Imo, Pizzeria da Gloria occupies a prime slice of neighborhood real estate. The crust on its 12inch wood-fired pies is fantastic: Light, crispy and with just a bit of char. Don’t miss out on the classic margherita, which is perfection, but also make sure to try some Pizzeria de Gloria specialties like the Bonci (thinly sliced roasted eggplant, garlic chili oil, parsley) and the Marinara (tomato sauce, thinly sliced garlic, chili flakes, extra virgin olive oil). $$. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Open 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 9:40 p.m. on Friday and noon to 9:30 p.m. on Saturday.

Rock Star Tacos

A few years ago, chef and guitarist Wil Pelly was hanging out with his bandmate Matt Arana after a gig. A couple of hours and several shots of brown liquor later, the two hatched a plan to open a music-inspired taco counter out of a concession stand in New Town St. Charles. The concept was a hit, so much so that the operation eventually moved to new, larger digs in the Hill neighborhood, bringing Rock Star Tacos (4916 Shaw Avenue, 314-625-7508) to life in the Gaslight building. Pelly draws on his decades of experience in St. Louis’ food scene — he’s worked in several of the area’s prominent kitchens, including the Libertine, Nudo House and Boundary at the Cheshire — to deliver Tex-Mex fare with Cuban influences that looks simple but is anything but. One bite of his whimsically named and musically themed dishes — Skinny Puppies, Street Korn, Shrimp Bizkit — and you’ll agree: This place rocks. $-$$. Open from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed on Sunday and Monday.

NORTH HAMPTON AND SOUTHAMPTON

Himalayan Yeti

Chef/owner Dipak Prasai is serving top-notch Indian and Nepalese cuisine at Himalayan

Yeti (3515 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314354-8338) out of a former Long John Silver’s. During lunch hours, the hostess will likely assume you’re there for the standard (albeit excellent) buffet in the corner of the room. It’s a great deal, but you’ll find magic in the à la carte offerings, including revelatory versions of Indian classics such as chicken tikka masala and chana masala. More adventurous diners will thrill to the lamb sekuwa, with its shockingly tender spice-rubbed meat, and the standout goat curry. $-$$. Patio. Open 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily, 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Knead Bakehouse

Co-owner AJ Brown got his start baking bread, but Knead Bakehouse (3467 Hampton Avenue, 314-376-4361) offers much more than that. In fact, it’s one of the city’s top daytime spots. The exceptional egg, sausage and cheese sandwich presents like a breakfast burger stuffed with soft-scrambled eggs, smoked cheddar, aioli, sliced tomatoes and greens. Brioche French toast, meanwhile, is so pillow-like you’d be

forgiven for trying to nestle your face into it. Topped with sweet strawberry preserves, it’s a masterpiece. Counter service, with limited communal-style seating inside as well as limited outdoor seating. $. Opens at 9 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Menya Rui

At Menya Rui (3453 Hampton Ave, 314-601-3524), they make noodles. Quite literally, that’s what “menya” means in Japanese: noodle shop. Chef-owner Steven Pursley, a St. Louis native, lived in Japan for three years, where he studied ramen and worked in multiple noodle shops. When he returned to St. Louis, he started a pop-up shop, Ramen x Rui, and eventually turned it into a full-scale restaurant. Outside of housemade cucumbers pickled in rice vinegar and Japanese fried chicken, the entire menu is completely composed of noodle dishes, thin and thick, ranging from ramen to tsukemen to mazemen. Lines often stretch out of the door before they even begin serving, but this ramen is worth the wait. $$. Open Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m.

NOTABLE IN CLAYTON

Bar Moro

Ben Poremba has spent the past decade exploring different parts of the Mediterranean — North Africa and Israel in particular, which comprise his dual heritage and are reflected in his excellent restaurants Elaia, Olio and the Benevolent King. With his latest effort, Bar Moro (7610 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-296-3000), Poremba heads further west, basing the restaurant not on Spanish cuisine per se, but on a feeling. He captures the essence of what it means to dine in Spain in all of its rustic, sexy glory. In bringing to life Bar Moro, Poremba concerned himself less with cookbooks than with the region’s history, politics, movements and art; as a result, the Wydown eatery feels utterly transportive. Poremba’s knack for

creating stylish spaces is on full display at Bar Moro, which features a black-on-black color palette, dim lights, gem-studded fishing nets and a surrealist mural from local artist Edo Rosenblith. However, a leg of jamon, set into a stand and prominently displayed on the bartop as the restaurant’s focal point, shows he has put every bit as much care into the food as the aesthetics. Gazpacho, served with shot of gin, is complex; eggs and caviar embody his penchant for luxury; squid-ink rice porridge and pan-roasted sturgeon evoke seaside dining; and his selection of tinned seafood makes you wonder if you’ve stepped through a wormhole to San Sebastian. It’s all delicious — and you’d expect no less from one of St. Louis’ most talented chefs.

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Russell’s on Macklind

Trained as a pastry chef, owner Russell Ping has created an impossibly cozy bistro — exposed brick, low ceilings, mismatched wood furniture and a vintage fireplace. In the evening, Russell’s (5400 Murdoch Avenue, 314-5539994) is lit by votive candles, making it an intimate spot to nosh on Ping’s signature upscale comfort food. On a nice weekend morning or afternoon, the large, tree-covered patio is the place to be, as neighbors pop in and out to grab a coffee and pastry and just say hello. It’s a true neighborhood gathering place. $$-$$$. Patio. Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday and weekend brunch.

Trattoria Marcella

When it first opened, Trattoria Marcella (3600 Watson Road, 314-352-7706) didn’t have two things: t-ravs and lobster risotto, now among its most popular menu items. The t-ravs were at first eschewed because who needed another place that sold t-ravs? Then proprietor Steve Komorek, who owns the restaurant with sisters Jamie and Christine, went to Italy to train under the Slow Food program and learned that each Italian family makes the classic, popular dishes with their own twist. So Trattoria Marcella started making its signature t-ravs. The lobster risotto was a one-night-only New Year’s Eve special, but the dish received such a warm reception that they kept offering it as a verbal special. The additional offerings sum up how Trattoria Marcella has prospered since 1995: by offering its own take on modern Italian cuisine but keeping it unique to St. Louis. $$. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 8:30 p.m. and Friday through Saturday from 5 to 9:30 p.m.

CHEROKEE STREET

Fattened Caf

Fattened Caf (2724 Cherokee Street, 636-498-4240) cofounders Charlene Lopez-Young and Darren Young are the ultimate turnaround team. The two launched their Filipino barbecue brand as a popup that drew hundreds, pivoted to takeout ready-to-eat meals during COVID-19 and then began selling their longganisa sausages and sauces in grocery stores. Finally, in 2022, after a series of pop-ups, the duo launched regular hours within Earthbound Beer, with dishes that highlight their masterful grilling, smoked meats and Filipino flavors. The menu, written on a long chalkboard, is variable. But whether it holds sweet chicken longganisa, Pinoy pork steak BBQ or chicken sisig silog, eaters are sure to be delighted — especially if they finish with gooey butter cake flavored with ube, a purple tuber with a vanilla taste. $. Patio. Open Thursday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday also has lunch hours from 12:30 to 3:30 p.m.

The Taco & Ice Cream Joint

A long-abandoned department store in the heart of Cherokee Street has been turned into a massive, Technicolor restaurant that makes Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory look subdued. The Taco & Ice Cream Joint (2738 Cherokee Street, 314-224-5799) has an ice cream counter that runs the entire length of a very deep space, overflowing with flavors both traditional and unique, candies, sprinkles, bacon, exotic fruit and anything else you could imagine for toppings. Popsicles with hunks of fresh fruit, waffle cones coated in sugary glaze and a chocolate fountain that seems to run just for the spectacle of it sit behind the glass. The savory menu

(ordered at a separate counter) is every bit as worthy. The restaurant offers a dozen different taco fillings, all served à la carte and completely undressed. This presentation allows diners to choose their own accouterments from a salsa bar that offers everything from pickled onions to fiery mango salsas. No alcohol. $. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Sunday.

Taqueria El Bronco

You won’t find many decorations inside this narrow storefront; Taqueria El Bronco (2817 Cherokee Street, 314-762-0691) is all about the food. The menu features standard taqueria fare, though a few larger entrées are available. On both Saturday and Sunday, menudo and posole are on the menu, along with brunch-friendly egg-based items such as huevos rancheros and huevos con chorizo. A michelada is the obvious hair-of-the-dog choice, but other options include margaritas, buckets of beer or tequila. $. Open Monday through Thursday from 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Friday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

La Vallesana

La Vallesana (2801 Cherokee Street, 314-776-4223) has been serving a rainbow of ice creams with flavors that range from the standard (chocolate, coffee, strawberry and vanilla) to the wild but wildly delectable (pine nut, rose petals, chocolate with banana, curdled milk), as well as paletas (popsicles) in an array of equally tempting flavors. The savory side of the menu is just as appealing with familiar classics such as burritos and quesadillas. However, offerings that may seem more far afield to the uninitiated also shine: Check out the tortas, which can

Chicken Seven. MABEL SUEN

be filled with ham, breaded steak, or chicken — or grab a street taco filled with cow head, cheek or tongue. $. Patio. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Tuesday.

SOUTH OF MERAMEC

Chicken Seven

At Chicken Seven (6312 South Grand Boulevard, 314-354-6349), Korean fried chicken has been elevated to high art. The golden batter that encases the plump, searing-hot drumstick is as crunchy as a kettle-cooked potato chip, yet also somehow impossibly light, wrapping the juicy bird in a layer of savory flavor so crisp you can hear someone bite into it halfway across the dining room. Still not persuaded to give it a try? Well, Chicken Seven also serves a Yum Yum sauce, a brown-sugary nectar laden with soy, garlic and medium-hot red chiles. It’s a perfect glaze (though not its only one) for the fried chicken. No alcohol just yet, but a liquor license is in the works. $-$$. Open Thursday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m., Sunday 1 to 8 p.m. and Monday 4 to 9 p.m.

The Drawing Board

With a pool table and stable of craft beers, at first glance, the Drawing Board (4123 Chippewa Street, 314-899-9343) may seem like your average bar in Tower Grove South. But if you look

a little closer there’s something unique. Maybe it’s the chalkboards that line the restaurant or the mural of the St. Louis skyline that covers a wall. Or maybe it’s the menu, with jambalaya balls, falafel sliders, smash burger, grilled PB&J and Gooey Babies — its version of gooey butter cake. Or maybe it’s the activities — the darts, the Bimini ring toss, the live music, the trivia and the karaoke. Really, there’s something for everyone at the Drawing Board. $. Open 4 p.m. to midnight Tuesday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to midnight Saturday and Sunday.

Gooseberries

Have you ever heard of a pizza with a giant egg foo young patty, mayo, lettuce, onions and pickles? Or a fried tofu pizza with pickles? Or a fried bologna sandwich or a bacon-jelly cream cheese sandwich? Well, they’re all menu items at Gooseberries (2754 Chippewa Street, 314-5776363), a beloved south city restaurant and gathering place. Owner Kim Bond calls the menu “weird.” You could also call it creative, original and a vegan haven. The selection is comprehensive and eclectic. You’ll find dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner that include omelets, carrot cake pancakes, hand-pies and pizzas. Not only are Bond and her partner, Ross Lessor, beloved for their delicious food; they have been a source of support for their south city neighbors throughout the pandemic, showing their regulars what community means. $-$$. Open Thursday through Saturday from 4 to 10 p.m.

Majeed Mediterranean Restaurant

Opened in January 2018 by Syrian refugees, Majeed (4601 Gravois Avenue, 314-282-0981) offers not only terrific bargains but some of the best Middle Eastern food in town. Beef kefta, so often a dried-out, lackluster kabob choice, here is as juicy as a composite of slow-cooked pot roast. The meat pulls apart at only the slightest prodding; each bite is verdant with fresh parsley and garlic. Served over a platter, it is wonderful; wrapped in pita and covered in garlic sauce, it is sublime. The hummus is sumptuous and velvety; the chicken shawarma is transcendent. No alcohol. $. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Stacked Burger Bar

The inventive burger creations at this friendly Patch bar and grill are pretty fantastic. However, the “Think You Could Do It Better?” buildyour-own menu is what sets Stacked Burger Bar (7637 Ivory Street, 314-544-4900) apart from the rest. Diners devise their own one-of-akind creations from 72 options. Patties include ground chuck, chicken breast, black bean, local grass-fed beef, Sriracha burger and turkey. The lengthy toppings list includes bourbon-bacon maple jam, fried pickles, guacamole, sauerkraut, sautéed mushrooms, barbecued brisket and a fried egg. Could you do better? Maybe not, but you’ll sure have fun trying. $.

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Open for lunch and dinner on Mondays as well as Wednesday through Saturday (closed Tuesday), with Sunday hours from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m

Stellar Hog

Chef and pitmaster Alex Cupp is dishing up some quintessential St. Louis barbecue at Stellar Hog (5623 Leona Street, 314-481-8448, and other locations), which is where dive bar Super’s used to be. The pulled pork is infused with fruitwood smoke that underscores its sweetness, and you can add a smoky, mustard-forward Carolina-influenced sauce with a tang that cuts through the pork flavor. The ribs are fork-tender and slide off the bone with almost no prodding, dressed up in a rub that is simple and slightly sweet with a touch of warm spice. You really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, but if you had to choose just one thing, it comes down to Cupp’s brisket or, when they’re available, beef ribs, which are the best the town has to offer. If we had friends come in from out of town who wanted St. Louis ’cue done right, we’d take them here and order one of everything. $-$$. Patio. Open Wednesday

through Sunday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Tacos La Jefa

Nearly two decades ago, Heriberta Amezcua started selling birria out of her house. She set up shop at Mexican festivals in town and held cookouts in her backyard. Amezcua was one of a few people in St. Louis who made birrias, the Mexican meal that takes crispy corn tortillas and envelopes them around meat that has been cooked for hours. Then in 2020, she opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant, Tacos La Jefa (3301 Meramec Street, 314-845-4248). Sadly, Amezcua passed away only a few months into her business, but her family keeps her legacy alive, offering just two meals: the matriarch’s signature birria and quesobirria — a birria with melted cheese inside. Located inside Dutchtown’s Urban Eats small food hall, Tacos La Jefa is open only on weekends (check hours because they are known to fluctuate). But when open, it’s not uncommon for the restaurant to sell out before the day is over. Just don’t forget to dip the birrias into consommé, the broth — not sauce, you’ll be reminded — that tops off

NOTABLE IN UNIVERSITY CITY

the meal. $. Open Saturday and Sunday for lunch.

Tiny Chef

Tiny Chef (4701 Morgan Ford Road, 314-8329223) is an unlikely bastion of Korean cuisine inside Bevo Mill neighborhood pinball bar the Silver Ballroom. From a small takeout counter in the back of the space, owner Melanie Meyer fulfills her dream of connecting with her Korean heritage through food with delicious results and has built a group of loyalists who are always eager to taste what she is cooking on any given day. Her offerings are creative, such as amazing tteokbokki to Carbo noodles that have people clamoring for more despite the heat. If you’re lucky enough to snag one on the rare occasion she still offers it, Meyer’s Korean-style seafood boil is one of the most exciting takeout items in town. $-$$. Open Fridays from 6 to 10 p.m., Saturdays from 5 to 10 p.m., Sundays from 5 to 9 p.m.

NORTH CITY

Crown Candy Kitchen

A beloved Old North landmark for more than 100 years, Crown Candy (1401 St. Louis Avenue, 314621-9650) serves up a mean BLT and makes some of the sweetest candy in the city. The scoops of rich ice cream can be ordered in a malt, a sundae, a Newport (a sundae with whipped cream and nuts) or banana split, or just go with a scoop. There’s also the legendary milkshake — if you can drink five in half an hour, they’re all free. But more than the treats, it’s the old-timey feel at Crown Candy that will put a smile on your face. There’s often a line around the block on Saturday; why not visit on a weekday? $. Open 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Gregg’s Bar & Grill

Lousies on the Loop

As a young boy growing up in Bowling Green, Missouri, Day Boyer would regularly travel the area with his dad, gobbling up loose-meat sandwiches from Maid-Rite and falling in love with food in the process. After culinary school and a successful career in upscale New Orleans kitchens, Boyer returned to the Midwest in 2021 with his wife, Kelle, intent on opening a casual spot to pay homage to the sandwiches of his youth. That restaurant, Lousies on the Loop (567a Melville Avenue, University City; 314696-2002), is an unexpected thrill, balancing the easy nostalgia of Maid-Rite-style sandwiches with his undeniable culinary talent. You see this in the small details; Boyer grinds his meat fresh, then cooks it with seasoning

and finely diced onions that soak up all of the beef’s flavor. The result is a dish that gives you the flavor of a diner smashburger with the satisfaction of crispy meat edges in every bite. However, Lousies is much more than a loose-meat sandwich shop, a fact that becomes apparent in Boyer’s thoughtful side dishes, such as blue cheese coleslaw with pickled beets, dressed sweet potatoes and a host of rotating specials that are a nod to his time in New Orleans. If he’s serving it when you are there, make sure to finish your meal with his bread pudding, a scone-like pecan-and-raisin-flecked concoction that is one of the best versions in town. That such a masterpiece of pastry is served out of a humble loose-meat storefront says all you need to know about Lousies on the Loop.

One of the few sit-down restaurants in the industrial north riverfront, Gregg’s (4400 North Broadway, 314-421-1152) is a realm of beer and burgers, of generous fish sandwiches and perfect onion rings. Gregg’s attracts diverse characters and old friends, everyone from cops to construction workers to nearby neighborhood residents. You can get chili or fried chicken or a burger, but you can also get a 13-ounce New York strip, along with dinner salad and baked potato, for $15.95. It’s that kind of place. $. Full bar, patio. Open 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Thursday and 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday.

Playboy Cappuccino Lounge

Seafood is the name of the game at Playboy Cappuccino Lounge (8500 North Broadway, 314-869-4098). But the real specialty is the shrimp and not just any kind of shrimp: jumbo, golden, fried shrimp. Regulars say it’s the best in the city. Located in a tan brick building in Baden, this spot is loaded with all kinds of seafood options, including catfish nuggets, jack salmon, jack filet and tilapia. With colorful cocktails, a lounge area, a jukebox and dart boards, Playboy’s offers a hopping bar scene to complement its food. $$. Open daily at 11 a.m. but closed on Monday and Sunday.

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County The

SOUTH COUNTY J’s Pitaria

Like blintzes made from phyllo, Zamir Jahic’s pitas are stuffed, rolled and baked so that the exterior gets golden and flaky while the interior remains gooey and tender. Ordered by the pound rather than by the piece, the pitas come both sweet and savory. The latter include a simple cheese version, which oozes with mild and gooey kajmak, a housemade buttery spread that is like the lovechild of feta and boursin cheese, making for a pillow-soft, cheesy version of a fried spring roll. More traditional sandwiches at J’s Pitaria (91 Concord Plaza Shopping Center, 314-270-8005) include a wonderful doner kebab and a Bosnian-style chicken panini. No alcohol; counter service. $. Open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Liliana’s Italian Kitchen

The intoxicating scent of garlic, Parmesan and dough that greets you upon arrival to Liliana’s (two locations including 11836 Tesson Ferry Road, 314-729-1800) is a precursor for what’s to come, which really ought to begin with an order of cheese garlic bread. At this charming, oldschool Italian joint, chef/owner Tim Pieri dips crusty Italian bread into a concoction of melted butter, garlic and Parmesan, then covers it in mozzarella cheese before placing it in the oven. The result is a cheesy, butter-saturated wonder. Housemade meatballs and eggplant lasagna are equally dazzling, while the St. Louis-style pizza may well be the best in town. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Drivethrough window for pizza.

Nubby’s BBQ

What started as an unlikely bastion of barbecue at the All American Sports Mall in south

county has become one of the area’s most delicious smokehouses. There have been some changes over the past year. Nubby’s BBQ (6030 Telegraph Road, 314-293-9686) now boasts a standalone second location on Telegraph and has new owners after founder Matt Hines took over longtime south county institution Roberto’s. One thing that hasn’t changed, though, is that Nubby’s continues to serve up top-tier barbecue and delicious deep-fried finger foods, like a handmade crab Rangoon that is rolled up like a taquito. The brisket, the pulled pork and the Texas-style burnt ends will have you coming back for more, but the sleeper hit just might be the pizza, which has nearly eclipsed the barbecue — a major feat considering how delicious that ’cue is. $$. Opens 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

Twisted Tree Steakhouse

Anything you might presume about Twisted Tree (10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills; 314-3943366) based on its location in a Holiday Inn parking lot will get checked at the door, as the fast-food joints and chain stores of Sunset Hills give way to a sophisticated bar that could be a million light years away — or at least several miles to the northeast in Clayton. Dim lighting and sleek, backlit finishes illuminate a lounge packed with would-be patrons waiting

A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2023

Average price of a complete meal, including tip:

= $25 and under

$ = $25 to $40 $ $ $ = $40 to $55

$ $ $ = $55 and over

upward of two hours for a table. It’s not just hype; Twisted Tree’s food is worth waiting for. The onion rings are famous, the steaks are expertly cooked and the batter-dipped lobster tails are terrific. Even the salads (made tableside to your specifications) are seriously good. The service, too, is impeccable. $$$-$$$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Yolklore

Owner Mary Boehne could have done just about anything in the food world, but she chose to focus on breakfast and lunch for her first restaurant, Yolklore (8958 Watson Road, Crestwood; 314-270-8538). At this counter-service spot, you’ll see the same thought given to bacon and eggs as you’d see in an entrée special at a trendy evening bistro. This results in innovative dishes, such as Yolklore’s signature Nest Egg, a biscuit-like shell filled with eggs, bacon, cheese, pickled onion and preserved lemon, and a frittata with goat cheese, mushrooms and tomato jam. Don’t let the innovative menu items fool you, though. Yolklore is equally the place to go for the old-fashioned comfort of biscuits and gravy or a slinger. No matter what you choose, you can be in and out in a flash — or simply head through the drivethrough for the best fast food you can get. No alcohol. $. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday — and 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekends.

MARYLAND HEIGHTS

DD Mau

The name DD Mau (11982 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights; 314-942-2300) roughly translates to “hurry up” or “let’s go.” But for all its speed, the counter-service spot takes no shortcuts. Owner Julie Truong’s food is both innovative and fiercely authentic, customizable yet appealing to fans of traditional Vietnamese food.

A vermicelli bowl features such traditional accouterments as crushed peanuts, cilantro and pickled vegetables, but it can be tossed with a dressing, such as the funky Vietnamese vinaigrette, which infuses it with depth and heat. All bowls come with your choice of protein. Spring rolls, pho and banh mi round out a perfectly executed menu. No alcohol. $. Open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Closed Sunday.

El Morelia Supermercado

On the surface, El Morelia Supermercado (12005 St. Charles Rock Road, Bridgeton; 314-2090014) is an expansive Latin-food grocery store where customers can find anything from crispy bolillos to mortars carved from volcanic stone. But on the weekends, El Morelia Supermercado transforms into a pop-up taqueria. Ricos Tacos stand sets up inside and serves up fare that will spoil all other tacos for you. Protein offerings include steak, marinated pork, carne asada, lengua (cow tongue) and more. Plus, there’s a bar with fresh salsas and toppings, so you can curate each bite to your liking. Take a break from shopping to enjoy some of the most authentic street tacos in the St. Louis area or go to Bridgeton solely to enjoy El Morelia’s food. Either way, city dwellers will find its worth the drive. $. El Morelia Supermercado is open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday but closes an hour early on Sunday. Find tacos from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends.

Serra’s Pizzeria

St. Louis-style pizza is one of those polarizing points of discussion — you either love it or you hate it. But at Serra’s Pizzeria (12218 McKelvey Road, Maryland Heights; 314-739-0881), you’ll love it no matter your stance. Tucked into an unassuming building next to a strip mall off a busy Maryland Heights street, the pizzeria specializes in our beloved thin-crust pie. Each ’za is made with Provel cheese, the St. Louis way, and the list of toppings is neverending. But the menu doesn’t begin and end with pizza. With sandwiches, pasta, burgers, salads, eggplant or chicken Parmesan, fish filet and more, there’s something for everyone within the bounds of Serra’s menu. $. Closed Monday. Open Tuesday through Thursday, as well as Sunday, from 4 to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. to midnight.

Westport Social

The massive, 12,500-square-foot Westport Social (910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights; 314-548-2876) is sleek and stylish, with two rooms featuring everything from foosball tables to bocce courts to full-size basketball pop-a-shot setups. Food and drinks match the modern vibe, nodding at classic bar food but transcending the baseness often associated with the genre. The pizza and burgers are both solid choices, and if the nachos show that the kitchen can elevate classic appetizers, the wings prove they can put them on a jewel-crusted pedestal. The plump drummies and wings are smoked, infusing the juicy meat with

flavor without overtaking it. $-$$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.; open until 1 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 p.m. Sunday.

FERGUSON, FLORISSANT, HAZELWOOD

Cathy’s Kitchen

Inspired by her culinary trips around the U.S., Cathy Jenkins opened Cathy’s Kitchen (250 South Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-524-9200) as a way for diners to eat their way around the country without ever leaving north county. Her menu is divided not by starters, entrees or sandwiches but by state, each category filled with the specialties she enjoyed from each place. Look for Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches, New Orleans jambalaya and Memphis-style pulled pork on this edible road trip in the heart of Ferguson. $. Outdoor seating. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Hendel’s Market Café & Piano Bar

The Old Town Florissant digs housing Hendel’s (599 Saint Denis Street, Florissant; 314-8372304) have a colorful past: The century-old storefront used to be a grocer. But there’s nothing old-fashioned about the food. Try the German potato soup with its zippy hint of vinegar or the smoked shrimp en croute; there’s also a full menu of steaks, chicken, fish and pasta. Other perks include enthusiastic, rosycheeked service; a comfy dining room; and outside seating in a serene garden. Kids’ menu. $$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Kaslik

Chef and co-owner Wesam Hamed, whose résumé includes such notable spots as Ranoush and Layla, has been cooking his delicious Palestinian fare in north St. Louis County since 2013, first opening Kaslik (7847 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Hazelwood; 314-972-8282) in Floris-

NOTABLE IN CLAYTON

Bistro La Floraison

Restaurateurs and accomplished culinarians Michael and Tara Gallina understand that luxurious French decadence may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of their brand. After all, the pair have made a name for themselves through Vicia, their from-theearth, plant-centric temple of elevated dining that asks diners to rethink the center of the plate. However, before Vicia, before their tenure at New York’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, the Gallinas were aspiring chefs inspired by their passion for classic French cooking. It was the spark that lit their careers and the inspiration they drew upon when they had the opportunity to take over the beloved French bistro Bar Les Frères from retired St. Louis restaurant icon

Zoë Robinson. Under their stewardship, the space has become Bistro La Floraison (7637 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-725-8880), a celebration of the quintessential Parisian dining experience in both form and substance. Set against elegant cream and blushhued decor, Bistro La Floraison leans into the classics of French cuisine in dishes such as fluffy gougères served alongside silken molten gruyere, caviar with crème fraîche on a potato waffle, chicken cordon bleu and braised short ribs with rich bordelaise. Add to this an impressive French wine list (and an even more impressive beverage team to assist your selections) and you realize that the versatile Gallinas are not only carrying on the Bar Les Frères legacy; they have made it their own.

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sant before moving to its current home. The place is a charmer, with thoughtful touches throughout and equally good food. Hamed’s signature shawarma remains excellent. Likewise, the lamb chops, falafel and hummus are so authentic you might be convinced you’re sitting on the eastern Mediterranean rather than in the middle of north county. Don’t miss the baklava. No alcohol. $$. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

The Kitchen

At the Kitchen (14065 New Halls Ferry Road, Florissant; 314-831-9292), there are only four tables and an order counter. The intimate dining room almost ensures you’ll feel like family, which may be why proprietors Mary Nguyen and Kristin Liu named the restaurant what they did — to evoke feelings of home. The sisters grew up in the restaurant industry after their parents opened Chinese Gourmet in Florissant in 1984. Now a portion of the Chinese Gourmet location is the Kitchen, a new take on fast-casual Chinese American cuisine. But the sisters still include some favorites from Chinese Gourmet, such as the hot braised chicken wings. Another dish is the yang chau fried rice, made with Chinese sausage, whole shrimp, pork, onion, carrot and green beans, all on a bed of yellow-tinted rice. The dish is traditionally served at Vietnamese and Chinese weddings, a fitting offering for a restaurant that celebrates family. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Tuesday through Saturday.

Pearl Cafe

From a contemporary storefront in the heart of north county, Pearl Cafe (8416 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-831-3701) consistently offers what’s arguably the best Thai food in St. Louis, with a voluminous menu of noodles, fried rice, curries and noodle soups. Innovative chef/owner Scott Truong is always looking for ways to reimagine Thai cuisine through dishes like the Phorito or Thai Burger. Add in an extensive beer selection and 150 single-malt scotches, and you’ll see why Pearl Cafe is so much more than your usual Thai spot. Kids’ menu. $$. Patio. Opens at 10:30 a.m. weekdays and at noon Saturday.

Pirrone’s Pizzeria

For more 40 years, Pirrone’s Pizzeria (1775 Washington Street, Florissant; 314-839-3633) has been serving up quintessential Sicilian American comfort food in the form of deep-fried cannelloni bites, cheese sticks and salads that consist of little more than iceberg lettuce, Provel and a heavy-handed dousing of dressing. The big draw, however, is the pizza, a rectangular riff on the St. Louis-style cracker crust with cheese just a little bit gooier and sauce a little bit sweeter than the norm. Get it with pepperoni, Italian sausage or hamburger, and revel in the delight of a vibrant orange cheesy greaseslick that pairs perfectly with a frosty mug of

draft Bud Light. $$. Opens Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and Sunday at noon. Lunch buffet available weekdays.

Thai Kitchen

The menu at Thai Kitchen (8458 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-695-5039) consists of familiar Thai dishes, though the recipes are uniquely Andie Ongartsutthikue’s, having been passed down through her mother’s family for generations. Her version of the northern Thai noodle soup khao soi, for instance, is spicier than others. The warm heat is more haunting than assertive, sneaking up on the back palate and lingering. Meanwhile, a tangier, more tomato-forward presentation of curry is the base of the gang quah shrimp, a rich, brothy concoction meant to be served over rice. The star ingredient is pineapple, cut into chunks and warmed by the broth. $-$$. Open for lunch and dinner every day but Tuesday.

OVERLAND/ ST. ANN

Chuck-A-Burger

The menu at Chuck-A-Burger (9025 St. Charles Rock Road, St. John, 314-427-9524) may be filled with delectable American classics like burgers, fries and malts, but the most wonderful thing served at this north county institution is pure nostalgia. For more than 50 years, the

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restaurant has existed as a living slice of history, maintaining the tradition of the quintessential 1950s soda fountain down to its car hops, old-school jukebox soundtrack and classic car cruise nights. This is the culinary version of poodle skirts and saddles shoes, yet it’s anything but passé. Fashions may have changed since Chuck-A-Burger opened for business, but its greasy-spoon diner classics have stood the test of time. No alcohol. $. Curb service in addition to inside seating. Opens daily at 11 a.m.

El Guanaco Taqueria & Pupuseria

If you’re looking for a taste of Central American cuisine, El Guanaco Taqueria & Pupuseria (10633 Page Avenue, 314-274-8022) is a top destination. Serving food from El Salvador, Honduras and Mexico, El Guanaco keeps the menu fairly traditional, offering classic versions of empanadas, pupusas and menudo (Mexican tripe soup). If you just want a basic quesadilla or taco, you can get that, too, making the restaurant a great place to try new things while still finding something for your picky children to eat. Located near the intersection of Page Avenue and Highway 67, El Guanaco offers fancy vacation-quality food in a casual location. $$. Open from 10 a.m. until 9 p.m. daily.

Fire Chicken

Located in a shoebox of a building off Page Avenue in Overland, Fire Chicken (10200 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-551-2123) seems unassuming until you taste the food. Based loosely on traditional Korean fried chicken, Fire Chicken is the brainchild of husband and wife Min and Michelle Baik, two industry veterans who, after years of running restaurants focused on Japanese cuisine, are now proudly showing off their Korean culinary heritage. The restaurant’s namesake dish, a sticky sweet and searing-hot concoction of deep-fried boneless breaded chicken akin to the hot braised chicken you’d find at an American-style Chinese restaurant, is something Min has been perfecting for years. Noshing on this masterpiece, you can tell that time and care have paid off. $-$$. Open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4 to 8:30 p.m., open Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Haveli

A nondescript building on a nondescript stretch of Page Avenue is home to an Indian restaurant whose food is anything but nondescript. Haveli (9720 Page Avenue, Overland; 314423-7300) offers a wide selection of chicken, lamb and vegetarian dishes, with lists of specials for both omnivores and vegans. Goat curry is a standout, rich and gamy, while navratan korma is a complex vegetable dish capable of winning over the staunchest carnivore. Lunch and dinner buffets. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Nick and Elena’s Pizzeria

Regulars will swear that their beloved Nick and Elena’s Pizzeria (3007 Woodson Road,

Breckenridge Hills; 314-427-6566) serves the best St. Louis-style pizza in town. We have to hand it to them: With a flavorful crust that’s always crisped up just a little more golden brown than the town’s other squares beyond compare, these cracker-thin pies have that ever-so-slight bit of extra heft that makes a St. Louis pie go from good to great. You need that sort of architecture when you’re looking to pile on the pizzeria’s homemade, fennel-kissed Italian sausage — the more the better. $. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and weekends. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday.

Sides of Seoul

If you’re looking for the gold standard of traditional Korean food in the bi-state area, look no further than Sides of Seoul (10084 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-942-8940). Each menu item attracts a loyal following for good reason. The spot offers a fluffy masterpiece in the form of its kimchi pancake, while its kimchi jjigae is liquid gold. We could go on and on. The robust menu offers Korean food at its finest. $. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 7 p.m.

MAPLEWOOD Acero

Long before Maplewood was a dining destination, back when St. Louis’ Italian restaurants were mostly limited to “white sauce or red?” there was Acero (7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-644-1790). Jim Fiala’s flawlessly executed spot served nothing like the city had ever seen. More than a decade in, Acero feels as stylish, and essential, as ever, with menu items that include a seafood crudo and prosciutto-wrapped pastries called gnocco fritto as well as the expected pasta, fish, steak and rack of lamb. Do not skip the egg raviolo! $$$-$$$$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m.

Asador del Sur

After moving to St. Louis from Miami, Maria Giamportone and Daniel Gonzalez opened Asador del Sur (7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314-802-8587) to be a traditional South American-style grill, a place that honored their respective Ecuadorian and Uruguayan heritages. Both food and setting are luminous, with meat, seafood and wine not typically seen on St. Louis tables. Offerings include a selection of flawlessly grilled skirt steak, terrifically tender langostinos and some of the best empanadas in town. $$$$. Opens at 11:30 a.m. Wednesday through Friday, 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday and 4 p.m. Monday.

Benevolent King

From a tiny kitchen on a charming block, restaurateur Ben Poremba is reclaiming his identity as a chef with his most personal concept to date, one that draws its inspiration from his Moroccan-Israeli heritage. The falafel and chicken-filled Moroccan “cigars” are thrilling, while larger plates like the incredible lamb meatballs will blow you away at Benevolent King (7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314899-0440). With a creative cocktail list that offers some of the most thoughtful libations in town, what’s in the glass stands shoulder to shoulder with what’s on the plate. Small bistro tables evoke a Moroccan beachside cafe, while the shiny tiled floor and bar tops give off a swanky vintage feel. $$$$. Open from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, with an extra hour Friday and Saturday.

Pizza Champ

Once just a pandemic project of Elmwood’s Chris Kelling and Adam Altnether, Pizza Champ (2657 Lyle Avenue, Maplewood) has firmly established itself as a true neighborhood pizza joint. From its tiny brick-and-mortar location adjacent to Side Project Brewing’s sister concept, Shared Brewing, Pizza Champ invites

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diners to grab a pizza to go from the drive-thru or enjoy it on the patio. However you enjoy it, Pizza Champ delivers an outstanding experience thanks to specialty pies like the buffalo-fried chicken, which pairs tomato sauce and mozzarella with fried chicken tossed in buffalo sauce, celery and blue cheese; the legendary taco pizza; or classics like a world-class pepperoni offering. Whatever your order, Pizza Champ promises to hit the spot. $-$$. Open Wednesday and Thursday from 2 to 8 p.m. and Friday through Sunday noon to 8 p.m.

Thai Table

The pad Thai at Thai Table (7403 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-449-6919) offers an umami bomb of soy and the complex funk of the fish sauce — just one delight in a parade of dishes that will make you rethink Thai food. The green papaya salad som tum is positively electric, while vibrant lab kai is wipe-yourforehead spicy, with flavors so addictively sour you won’t be able to stop eating it. And if the noodles are excellent, the curries are positively ethereal. You simply can’t go wrong on this

menu. No alcohol, though there is boba tea. $$. Lunch and dinner daily (closed on Tuesday).

KIRKWOOD/ WEBSTER GROVES

Balkan Treat Box

The brick-and-mortar offshoot of a wildly successful food truck, Balkan Treat Box (8103 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-733-5700) offers fast-casual food from not only Bosnia but also its neighbors. Highlights include somun stuffed with Sarajevo-style cevapi, which looks like a breakfast link but tastes more like Middle Eastern kefta. Chef/owner Loryn Nalic cooks the meat over open flames, encrusting it with wood smoke to give it a slightly crisp texture even as it remains so juicy you’d think it’s been bathed in its drippings. Her Turkish pide, too, is a show-stopper, with glorious, spongy bread speckled with char, fashioned into the shape of a boat and stuffed with meat or cheese. After tasting this masterpiece, you’ll understand why Balkan Treat Box consistent-

NOTABLE IN ST. ANN

Sabroso

The cochinita pibil at Sabroso (1146 Old St. Charles Road, St. Ann; 314-9185037) is one of the most delicious foods you will eat in the St. Louis metro area. Seriously. This porcine masterpiece is so tender you could spread it on a cracker. Its rendered fat, kissed with just a whisper of citrus, serves as a glorious sauce that drips down your hands and past your wrist when you try to contain it in a house-made tortilla. Chef Miguel Pintor, the artist behind this outstanding dish, has spent his entire culinary career cooking for others, but with his debut restaurant, Sabroso, he finally gets to show St. Louis diners the traditional recipes he inherited from his family in Mexico City and Tabasco. He does so out of a humble St. Ann storefront, where the cochinita

pibil is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to his culinary talent. Tamales, made from impossibly creamy masa and filled with green chiles and cheese, evoke the warm comfort of an elevated jalapeño popper. A machete stuffed with char-kissed carne asada, onions and cheese, is a mouthwatering mash-up of a quesadilla and a Philly cheesesteak. Birria, stuffed onto a housemade torta, evokes a Mexican French dip. For years, Pinto has been dreaming of bringing the cuisine he grew up on to St. Louis diners, hoping to educate his guests on the different regional specialties that define his native country’s rich and multi-faceted culinary tradition. When you taste his food, you understand that Sabroso is not only his dream come true; it’s St. Louis restaurant-goers’, too.

ly receives national acclaim. No alcohol. $-$$. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

Chiang Mai

Chef Su Hill started Chiang Mai (8158 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves) as a homage to her late mother, a revered home cook who’d meticulously instructed Hill on preparing traditional Thai cuisine. The result is a menu that’s full of revelatory delights that comfort and light up the palate. A small plate of house-made sausages are stuffed full of rustic cuts of pork mixed with fresh herbs and spices. Tender baby back ribs called gra dook moo are roasted with a sweet and earthy glaze, while gaeng hung lay, or succulent braised curry pork, is Hill’s ultimate testament to her mother. Whatever you order, you will get not only outrageously good flavor but also a meaningful experience. $$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from noon to 8 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from noon to 9 p.m.

Frisco Barroom

Frisco Barroom (8110 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-455-1090) is a modern American tavern that is nice enough for date night but not so nice that you have to call a sitter. The restaurant is positively handsome, outfitted in exposed brick, black slate paint, wrought-iron chandeliers and a black tin ceiling. The menu, which includes boards, sandwiches and a few well-thought-out entrees, is interesting without ever venturing from being accessible. $$$$$. Rooftop dining and a back patio. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

Honey Bee’s Biscuits + Good Eats

The biscuits at Honey Bee’s (200 North Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314-650-0762) are fluffy, golden and so gilded with honey, they glisten in the sunlight. They taste even better than they look: The shortbread-like exterior gives way to an almost cake-like interior with a subtle sweetness that’s underscored by the honey glaze. Since June 2020, married couple Michael Shadwick and Meredith Gibbons Shadwick have been serving their signature biscuits both as standalone offerings and as the base for a variety of sandwiches and toppings. Their new-ish storefront means you no longer have to stand in line at the Kirkwood Farmers Market to partake. $. Open 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

Olive + Oak

Now that Olive + Oak (216 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-736-1370) is firmly established in its new, larger home, we can finally get a table. This is a wonderful development, as this new Webster Groves classic has endeared itself to area diners as one of the area’s most essential restaurants. Owner/general manager Mark Hinkle and chef Jesse Mendica spent a good part of their restaurant careers at Annie Gunn’s and brought with them the west county landmark’s refined approachability to this stylish-yet-warm neighborhood eatery. Ol-

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ive + Oak is the type of restaurant where you can don jeans and a T-shirt and settle into a burger and fries or dress up for cocktails, oysters and a cowboy ribeye for two. It’s all flawlessly executed by Mendica, who has quickly become one of the city’s biggest culinary stars. $$$-$$$$. Patio. Opens at 4 p.m. daily.

O+O Pizza

Do not get confused. In spite of its name, O+O Pizza (102 West Lockwood Ave, Webster Groves; 314-721-5422) is not just a pizza joint. Part of the Olive and Oak family of restaurants, O+O Pizza is Italian food done right. It’s even earned some famous fans like St. Louis Blues Captain Ryan O’Reilly, who loved the eggplant Parmesan so much that he had two pans of it shipped to Canada so his parents could try it. The man behind the dish is chef Mike Risk, who previously worked for 12 years at Italian favorite Trattoria Marcella. The secret at O+O is simple ingredients cooked to perfection. The thin, crispy Neapolitan-style pizzas are woodfire speckled and offer a delicious, flavorful bite even when only adorned with the restaurant’s rustic tomato sauce, Fior di Latte (a type of mozzarella) and pecorino cheese, as is the case with the O+O Original. For the Casarecce cacio e pepe pasta dish, the pasta is tossed with pecorino, Parmesan, garlic and black pepper

— just a few simple ingredients that add up to something special. $$-$$$. Open daily at 4 p.m.

RICHMOND HEIGHTS/ BRENTWOOD

Farotto’s

An OG St. Louis-style pizzeria, Farotto’s (9525 Manchester Road, 314-962-0048) has been serving square-cut slices since 1956, eight years before Imo’s. Anchored by its pizza, red sauce and signature salad dressing, Farotto’s has helped to define the St. Louis Italian subgenre for generations of diners. Appetizers include stuffed risotto cakes, bruschetta and, for true St. Louisans, Provel sticks. It also offers lunch combos, sandwiches, burgers and pasta. Other than pizza, the dinner menu includes pasta, pistachio-encrusted salmon, chicken saltimbocca and a stuffed pork chop: 12 ounces of pig stuffed with portabella mushrooms, onions and blue cheese crumbles and then topped with apple-walnut chutney. With its extensive list of coffee cocktails, Farotto’s makes for a great escape on a chilly night. $$. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, with an extra half hour on Friday and Saturday.

Frank Papa’s Ristorante

Frank Papa’s Ristorante (2241 South Brentwood Boulevard, Brentwood; 314-961-3344) is so welcoming and serene you’d never know that it was located just south of the fourth circle of hell (the Brentwood Promenade parking lot). The cozy restaurant is an oasis of good Italian food and service. It’s white-tablecloth dining but without pretense. The restaurant is known for giving you a family-style welcome and for serving a pasta dish with sauce so spicy that it’s been rumored to induce labor in people at the end of their pregnancy. Now referred to as the “Eviction Notice” special, the penne amatriciana has become a traditional late-pregnancy meal among St. Louisans who are ready (and eager) to pop. $$$. Open daily except Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m.

Katie’s Pizza and Pasta Osteria

The first location of Katie’s Pizza and Pasta Osteria (multiple locations including 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314-942-6555) is a stunner, embodying eponymous owner Katie Lee Collier’s keen eye for design. But Katie’s has substance, not just style, serving thoughtful, approachable food with near-flawless execution. Katie’s Famous Fried Artichokes dazzle, while brussels sprouts are perfectly charred and glazed in an Italian sweet-and-sour sauce balanced with salty pancetta. While the pizza

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is very good, Collier could teach a master class in pasta. $$-$$$. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. weekends.

Mai Lee

Located in a nondescript strip mall in the shadow of a Home Depot, Mai Lee (8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood; 314-645-2835) nevertheless packs in not only hungry diners but also some of the city’s top chefs and restaurateurs. Credit founder Lee Tran’s flawless Vietnamese food, which includes a repertoire of approximately 200 dishes, each better than the next. Tran originally opened Mai Lee as a Chinese spot in 1985 but earned acclaim after she began introducing the cuisine of her homeland to curious local diners. Tran and her family, including her son and hospitality pro Qui, have garnered a legion of loyalists who appreciate the way the kitchen balances authenticity with accessibility, making everyone feel welcome — from the most experienced noodle slurper to a pho novice. $$-$$$. Patio. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

CLAYTON/LADUE Almonds

For 25 years, Almonds (8127 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-725-1019) has continued to thrive because of its dedication to customers. Tony and Kelli Almond have built relationships with their patrons since Almonds first opened

its doors in 1997. Maybe it’s the Southern hospitality. The Almonds have roots in Louisiana, Arkansas and Texas. Their upbringings are reflected not only in their personal warmth but also in their food. On the menu, find sauteed crawfish tails salad, chicken and sausage gumbo, Cajun shrimp and blackened tilapia. Expect a casual and comfortable dining experience enhanced by a sophisticated, white-tablecloth atmosphere. $$$. Open 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Open Saturday from 6 to 10 p.m.

Akar

Bernie Lee’s intimate Akar (7641 Wydown Blvd, Clayton, 314-553-9914) is a deeply personal restaurant — one that explores the chef’s roots going all the way back to his childhood in Malaysia. With a stunning interior space that seats only 14 (there’s room for more on the lovely patio as weather permits), Lee is able to treat Akar like a dinner party in his own home, which means he can do what he wants just because he wants to do it. That means true fusion, with offerings such oolong tea-brined duck breast and char siu chicken joined by lobster rangoon ravioli and gnocchi in Malaysian curry. It’s likely the best dinner party you’ll ever get invited to. $$$-$$$$. Patio. Open 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

Casa Don Alfonso

You don’t have to leave St. Louis to be whisked to the Amalfi Coast. With its gleaming marble

table tops, lemon trees, hand-painted tile walls and blown-glass wisteria leaf decor, Casa Don Alfonso (100 Carondelet Plaza, inside the Ritz Carlton, Clayton; 314-719-1496) evokes the sort of ease you’d feel sipping aperitivo on an outdoor terrace in Sant’Agata. And the authentic food will truly transport. This is a “franchise,” so to speak, of Don Alfonso 1890, a 100-yearold restaurant on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. St. Louis is the storied restaurant’s first location in the United States and uses the same recipes and techniques that gave Don Alfonso 1890 its staying power. Here you can get delectable beef carpaccio, burrata or even Grandma’s Ziti, a rustic pasta made with blistered cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced cloves of garlic, chile peppers and parsley. It perfectly blends the exotic with the familiar, the elevated with the comfortable, just like Casa Don Alfonso. $$$$. Open for breakfast a la carte Tuesday through Saturday and a breakfast buffet Saturday and Sunday. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

The Crossing

Opened in 1998, the Crossing (7823 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-721-7375) has stood the test of time — remaining not only relevant but holding its own in the city’s crème de la crème. The restaurant owes its staying power to owner Jim Fiala’s beautiful fusion of French and Italian cuisine and his prowess with classical techniques, exemplified by dishes like his luscious three-cheese egg ravioli or pan-seared foie gras with berries. Fiala was doing “farm

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to table” long before it was a buzzword. $$$$. Opens weekdays at 11:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. on Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Half & Half

At Half & Half (8135 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-725-0719), Mike and Liz Randolph bring to breakfast and lunch the same level of care, quality and service typically reserved for evening restaurants — and fine-dining ones at that. Half & Half keeps it approachable with classics such as biscuits and gravy, French toast and blueberry pancakes — only they’re the best versions of each you’ll find anywhere. Add top-shelf coffee offerings and thoughtful service, and it’s early morning bliss. $-$$. Opens 7 a.m. Wednesday through Friday and 8 a.m. weekends; closes at 2 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Patio.

Herbie’s

Herbie’s (8100 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314769-9595) move to Clayton was more of a merger than a simple relocation — which is why loyalists of both the original Herbie’s as well

as Cardwell’s will feel nostalgic when they step inside 8100 Maryland Avenue. Chef Bonzo still stands at attention at the front door, and those vintage posters from Herbie’s are here; the difference is that they hang on walls in a room that is laid out exactly like Cardwell’s. With talented chef Bill Cawthon now leading the kitchen, the restaurant has taken on the vibe of French bistro meets modern seasonal American eatery. Gluten-free and vegetarian menus available. $$$$. Sidewalk seating. Opens at 11 a.m. on weekdays and 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Louie

At Louie (706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314300-8188), Matt McGuire has created the sort of restaurant where everyone wants to eat — which makes it an incredibly difficult reservation to score. The small, shotgun dining room, simply appointed with wooden tables, exposed ductwork and a wall of striking, floral-print wallpaper, fills quickly. If the dining room is lovely in its simplicity, the food is even more so. A relatively compact menu of Italian-inflected

NOTABLE IN CLAYTON

Wright’s Tavern

It’s hard to imagine a more impressive dream team than Matt McGuire and Carey McDowell. Between the two of them, they’ve run some of St. Louis’ most ground-breaking and beloved restaurants, worked alongside acclaimed chefs (including McDowell’s time with Daniel Boulud) and been instrumental in setting service standards for the area’s hospitality community. Wright’s Tavern (7624 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-390-1466), which McGuire owns and where McDowell is executive chef, is the culmination of this experience and, unsurprisingly, an utterly exceptional restaurant. Wright’s delivers this level of dining with a restraint honed by the confidence that comes

from being a master of one’s craft. It is a classic steakhouse. As such, Wright’s serves steakhouse classics — a flawless Caesar salad, ridiculously fresh oysters, an impeccably seared ribeye — in their most essential, perfect forms. No dish exemplifies this ethos better than the crab cake, a stunningly simple assemblage of colossal crab meat so fresh, it tastes as if it was plucked out of the sea moments before it landed on the plate. It’s accented with a touch of cracker crumbs and cream that serve more as gentle nudges than actual binders. This is the definitive crab cake in St. Louis, which shouldn’t come as a surprise considering it comes courtesy of the city’s definitive restaurant duo.

cuisine anchors the restaurant, with pizza, pasta and simple roast chicken executed flawlessly. Bar reserved for walk-in diners. $$$-$$$$. Open 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Pastaria

Acclaimed chef Gerard Craft turns his attention to Italian cuisine at Pastaria (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-862-6603), a large, bustling restaurant in downtown Clayton. The cuisine is simple and outrageously good. Pasta, made in-house, stars in dishes both simple (the sublime chitarra aglio e olio) and sexy and sophisticated (the luscious pistachio ravioli). Pizzas, on a thin crust, are akin to Neapolitan style. You can opt for an American-style pepperoni pie, its meat cured by the restaurant, or a more ambitious pizza with bechamel and roasted mushroom. Save room for dessert, especially the gelato. Family friendly. No reservations; expect a wait. $$$. Open 4 to 9 p.m. daily.

Pastaria Deli & Wine

An elevated deli from the mind of acclaimed chef Gerard Craft, Pastaria Deli & Wine (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, 314-773-7755) is a companion to Clayton mainstay Pastaria. The deli was tailor-made to complement the popular pizza and pasta eatery with carryout-friendly items like sandwiches and salads that could be enjoyed in a park or in the backyard with friends. But just because the items are offered to go does not mean any quality or care has been sacrificed. The standout chicken-salad sandwich comes dressed in aioli with pepperoncini, celery, chives, oregano and Castelvetrano olives. Definitely don’t sleep on the mouthwatering chocolate chip cookie made with brown butter. $$. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Peno Soul Food

Like Italy’s “dirty south,” Peno (7600 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-899-9699) is brash, casual and infused with the flavors of the ocean. While the menu changes daily, expect dishes you’d be served if you were a guest in someone’s Calabrian beach house. Chef Pepe Kehm has boldly crafted a menu of traditional southern Italian dishes like anchovy and calabrian chile toast, braised octopus and spaghetti with clams. It’s a far cry from the red-sauce joints that the city often mistakes for Italian cooking — and that’s exactly the point. $$$. Opens Tuesday through Sunday at 5 p.m.

Tony’s

You’ll have great food at Tony’s (105 Carondelet Plaza, 314-231-7007). You’ll eat carpaccio kissed with truffle that melts on the tongue and lingers like a lover’s embrace. You’ll have life-changing risotto or a black-pepper-rubbed prime strip steak. There is also great wine, desserts and everything in between. But perhaps Tony’s biggest accomplishment is making a refined, upscale experience feel lighthearted and easy. Servers, assistants and maitre d’s have all mastered the art of making every last person

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feel like a VIP in on a secret as they whisper clever asides to the table or laugh amongst themselves as they prepare the antipasti — in a way that always lets you in on the joke. You feel less like their esteemed guest and more like a friend by the time dinner ends — something you’ll pray never has to happen. $$$$. Open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Tuesday through Saturday for dinner at 5 p.m. Dress code (no shorts).

Truffles Restaurant

Chef Brandon Benack’s oft-changing menu fuses rustic northern Italian cuisine with the local, seasonal produce of the Midwest. At Truffles (9202 Clayton Road, Ladue; 314-5679100), the pastas are exquisite and appetizers like roasted bone marrow and housemade burrata will make it difficult to save room for the main course, but with such good seafood and meat options (including a full roster of steaks, served black and blue, Tuscan style or à la Oscar), you must. The adjacent Truffles Butchery is strictly a grab-and-go operation, offering not just a line of sandwiches but also soup, freshbaked bread and takeaway pot pies. Wine list has received numerous awards. $$$$. Open 5 to 8 p.m. daily.

THE LOOP/ UNIVERSITY CITY/ OLIVETTE

Cate Zone Chinese Cafe

The Hot Crisp Fish at Cate Zone (8148 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-738-9923) is one of those dishes that makes you fall in love with a restaurant. Whole peppers accompany hunks of panko-breaded whitefish, staining the breadcrumbs bright orange. Sichuan peppercorns — all five types — speckle the vibrant red chiles coating your mouth with a menthol-esque tingle. It’s just one of the show-stopping offerings at this modern Chinese restaurant. The cumin lamb is dazzling; the Honey Crisp Sweet Potatoes are a majestic, cotton-candy-like concoction of spun sugar; and the Korean cold noodle soup is so funky with bean curd it could’ve been made by George Clinton. No alcohol. $$. Open from 11 am to 3 pm and 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

ChiliSpot

A relative newcomer to U. City, ChiliSpot (7930 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-925-8711) is a worthy addition to the phenomenal Asian cuisine options along Olive Boulevard. The comprehensive menu makes this the ideal place to come with a group of friends and sample several entrees and even more sides. For the spice lovers, the Chongqing spicy popcorn chicken is a modern twist on a classic, and the Szechuan spicy wonton is a classic dish done to perfection. But don’t worry, there are also plenty of options for diners who don’t like heat. $$. Open for lunch and dinner daily except Wednesday.

Corner 17

Corner 17 (6623 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-2402) is a U. City staple. Bubble tea and freshly made noodles are served at this beloved spot, as well as plump baos and satisfying soups. Immigrant owned and run, Corner 17 puts its chefs front and center, literally. The focal point of the dining room is a window into the noodle-making station. Watch cooks stretch and slice the dough as you settle into the space. You might want to be prepared to wait, though. Lines to get in snaked down Delmar after a social media influencer tried to diss the restaurant last year, and what followed was a show of fierce support from the rest of St. Louis. $. Open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Frank & Helen’s Pizzeria

Less a restaurant than an institution, Frank & Helen’s Pizzeria (8111 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-0666) has been firing up its charcoal broiler since 1956, solidifying its place as the go-to spot for three generations of University City families. You’ll find the same cheesy-baked pastas, the same char-grilled ribeyes with sides of fettuccine and, of course, the same broasted chicken — a special way of pressure-frying the bird that results in impossibly succulent meat and a crispy, non-greasy coating. But if there is one thing you must order at Frank & Helen’s, it’s the pizza, one of the best St. Louis-style thin-crust pies in town. Beer and wine only. $-$$. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 4 to 9 p.m. and 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Friday.

Fork & Stix

Tucked in a small storefront off a side street on the eastern edge of the Loop, Fork & Stix (549 Rosedale Avenue, 314-863-5572) focuses on food from Thailand’s northern “second city,” Chiang Mai. That includes the fiery nam prik num, a chile dip served with vegetables and rice, and the lovely, lemongrass-perfumed pork sausages called sai oua. Every last dish is prepared with the same care you’d find in the area’s top fine-dining restaurants, but if one thing stands above the rest, it’s the khao soi, a yellow curry egg noodle soup so revelatory it’s haunting. No alcohol. $$. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and for dinner only on Sunday.

Frida’s

Thanks to a newly expanded kitchen and a standalone bar concept, there are even more reasons to love Frida’s (622 North and South Road, University City; 314-727-6500). The original restaurant in Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff’s mini-empire (which now includes Diego’s and Station No.3) has transformed over the years from a vegetarian deli into a sophisticated pescetarian restaurant, complete with stylish design touches and a menu of fare as healthful as it is delicious. $$. Sidewalk seating. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m. and 4-10 p.m., Friday from 11:30 a.m.

until 2 p.m. and 4 to midnight, and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. until midnight.

Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum

The grand entrance sets you up for what follows at Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum (8224 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-3108); what awaits you at this festively decorated University City institution is no less than a multisensory feast. Lu Lu is fiercely authentic. The restaurant has four chefs from four different regions in China and one chef dedicated solely to dim sum, resulting in dishes that are created by experts in the cuisine of their origin. Yet as traditional as Lu Lu may be, what sets it apart is a welcoming spirit that embraces first-timers as warmly as regulars. Lazy Susan tables make exploration particularly easy for big parties. $$$. Opens at 11 a.m. to 9:30 Sunday through Thursday with an extra half hour on Friday and Saturday. Cart service on Saturday.

Mission Taco Joint

Inspired by spots in San Francisco’s Mission District, brothers Adam and Jason Tilford opened the first Mission Taco Joint (multiple locations including 6235 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-932-5430) on the Loop in 2013, bringing a breezy, West Coast-style street-taco shack to St. Louis. Mission Taco Joint begins with a respect for traditional tacos, then infuses the form with culinary creativity, resulting in offerings like slow-roasted duck with ancho chile glaze, wood-fired portobello mushrooms with goat cheese and succulent beef-brisket birria. And did we mention the margaritas? $-$$. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday with an extra hour on Friday and Saturday.

Soup Dumplings STL

After making a name for himself with the now-shuttered upscale restaurant Private Kitchen, chef Lawrence Chen has found lasting success with its offshoot, St. Louis Soup Dumplings (8106 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314445-4605). The restaurant is entirely dedicated to the handmade, liquid-filled Shanghai-style dumplings that have sent Chen’s guests into a frenzy since he began serving them at Private Kitchen, and it’s easy to understand why. Though this is a casual concept, the dumplings are serious business, filled with either chicken, pork, fish, shrimp, beef or vegetarian-friendly fillings. That such a tiny, delicate package can contain so much juice, filling and flavor is an impressive feat, and only possible from someone as skilled as Chen. $. Open every day except Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Salt + Smoke

Salt + Smoke (multiple locations including 6525 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-7270200) serves the best brisket in town. That’s not controversial. What may be a little more contentious, though, is an even bolder statement — Salt + Smoke serves some of the best brisket in the country. Tom Schmidt opened this full-service, bourbon-centric barbecue

spot in 2014, a time when every food publication in town was noting the over-saturation of the barbecue market. But Schmidt knew he was onto something, and his killer ’cue proves his point. From the type of wood used to smoke the beef (post oak, of course) to the 18-hour smoke time, Salt + Smoke is the real deal — one reason it’s successfully expanded its footprint across the region. If you’re not a barbecue person, order a dish of the white-cheddar Cracker Mac and try not to fall in love. $-$$. Sidewalk dining. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday with an extra late hour Friday and Saturday.

Seoul Taco

Seoul Taco (6665 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-863-1148) has gone from a wildly popular food truck to a tiny brick-and-mortar to a much bigger one — with locations from Columbia to Champaign to Chicago. The flagship is a low-lit, street-art-infused spot on the Loop, with modern Korean-inflected fusion fare served from a counter to the neighborhood’s young, hip denizens. If you’ve ever had the bulgogi burrito, packed with mouthwatering kimchi-fried rice, you’ll see how a humble truck built a Midwestern Korean-Mexican empire. $. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Sugarfire Smoke House

Sugarfire Smoke House (multiple locations including 9200 Olive Boulevard, Olivette; 314-9972301) is a perennial readers’ choice favorite for best barbecue, as well as a strong contender in the increasingly crowded fast-casual category. And rightly so: What could be faster or more efficient than going through Sugarfire’s cafeteria-style line and choosing among the numerous cuts of smoked meat and creative sides? The only thing that might slow your journey toward overeating is the way Mike Johnson’s growing chain comes up with new and intriguing options on every visit. The Olivette flagship is surprisingly big and often busy, but don’t worry: The line moves fast. $$. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.

Taco Buddha

When Taco Buddha (7405 Pershing Avenue, University City; 314-502-9951) first opened in 2017, customers poured in, tempted by delicious tacos and margaritas. Still, owner Kurt Eller knew the restaurant was capable of more and, over the past couple of years, he and his team have turned the casual eatery into a topnotch dining destination. The menu contains dishes full of bold, international flavors, like the Thai taco, made with Thai braised and griddled beef with red onions, cabbage and cotija cheese, all wrapped in a flour tortilla. Plus, don’t miss the delicious margaritas, just the thing to cool you down while sitting out on the restaurant’s airy and spacious patio in the summer. $-$$. Covered patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Tai Ke Shabu Shabu

The first restaurant in St. Louis dedicated solely to Taiwanese cuisine is anchored by “street snacks,” tapas-sized items intended to be eaten with your hands as you walk around Taipei’s Blade Runner-style night markets. Tai Ke originally opened in University City, but the nearby Costco development forced business partners Alu Sun and Calvin Koong to move to Olivette. With an expanded space, they were able to add shabu shabu, an individualized Taiwanese hot pot, to the menu. Tai Ke Shabu Shabu (9626 Olive Boulevard, Olivette; 314-801-8411) still offers the Taiwanese snack food that made it so popular. Small plates like Sticky Rice Cube, a platter of congealed pieces of pork blood interspersed with rice to form a handful of gelatinous cakes, are surprisingly approachable. Among entrees, Three Cup Tofu, with pillow-soft squares of bean curd tossed in a mouthwatering sauce that is equal parts rice wine vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil, redefines comfort food. $$. Closed Tuesdays. Open daily at 11 a.m.

U-City Grill

From the outside, this University City classic looks like any other greasy spoon, but when you head inside U-City Grill (6696 Enright Avenue, University City; 314-721-3073) and read the posted menu, you don’t see burgers, slingers or french fries. Instead, you can get bulgogi beef with rice and bean sprouts, Korean hot soup, kimbob — a Korean-style vegetarian roll — or just a side of kimchi. The unassuming exterior has probably fooled many passersby; don’t be one of them. $. Open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Wonton King

The dim sum spread here is one of the best in town. However, there is so much more to Wonton King (8116 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-567-9997) than what rolls by the table every Saturday and Sunday. The Hong Kong-style eatery boasts a menu of expertly prepared dishes, including traditional congee made with everything from preserved egg to pork to kidney; fiery hot pots; and Hong Kongbraised noodles. The true mark of this restaurant’s greatness is the whole roasted duck, a feat of culinary prowess that combines crispy skin with incredibly juicy meat. The only thing better than this delectable dish is pairing it with an array of dim sum selections for a feast that is fit for a king. Beer and wine only. $$$$$. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Cart service Saturday and Sunday.

WEST COUNTY

Annie Gunn’s

More pub than club, Annie Gunn’s (16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield; 636-5327684) is not the kind of place you get dressed up for. Still, the food is as good as it gets, with an on-site SmokeHouse Market, where meats are cured, dry-aged and hand-cut. If you don’t have a reservation, securing a table

might take as long as three hours. But when you sink your teeth into Chef Lou Rook III’s grilled-to-order ribeye and get your mitts around a glass of red from the 700-bottle list, you’ll forget all about the wait and begin hatching a plan to come back again ASAP. Not into steak? Burgers, sandwiches and specialties like smoked shrimp are all excellent choices. $$$-$$$$. Patio. Opens daily at 11 a.m. Closed Monday.

China Bistro at Pan-Asia Supermarket

Tucked next to an Academy Sports in an unassuming Ballwin strip mall sits Pan-Asia Supermarket — one of the area’s largest Asian grocery stores. Yet even more deceivingly lowkey is a tiny Chinese eatery located off to the side of the supermarket’s sprawling aisles of every imaginable Asian product. China Bistro (14246 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-220-9999) will serve you some of the most authentic, delicious Chinese food in St. Louis. Our favorites include the Singapore sweet rice noodles, stir-fried rice with barbecue pork and eggplant with garlic sauce. China Bistro tends to be busy during lunch and dinner hours. If you plan on doing some shopping, we recommend placing your order before perusing the store. $. Open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Curry Club

Indian restaurants are a frequent lunch favorite, but it’s hard to say who does midday better than Curry Club (1635 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield; 636-778-7777) , which bills itself as a fast-food takeout place for Indian food lovers. The lunch special (vegetarian or not) contains two curries of choice plus rice and naan. Its popularity is only rivaled by the restaurant’s extensive dosa selection, all of which are grilled behind the counter in view of customers — a sight that makes the savory crepes hard to resist. But Curry Club offers much more than these two genres: the menu sports a plentitude of curries, biryanis, apps, snacks, beverages and specials. $-$$. Open Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.

El Toluco

Since opening as a grocery store in 2016 (the inhouse taqueria opened about six months later), El Toluco (14234 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-686-5444) has become a gathering place for St. Louis County’s growing Latin community. The restaurant is bare bones, but guacamole and various handcrafted sauces, ranging from mild to fiery, are prepared daily. Tacos, burritos, chile relleno and other Mexican favorites are all available at shockingly low prices. The grocery stocks Mexican delicacies, including meats, juices, desserts, produce and Mexican Coke. Beer and wine only. $. Open Tuesday to Thursday and Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Friday from 10: 30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience

An intimate restaurant with an equally small menu, Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience (15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville; 636220-8514) is rooted in history: The menu is based on the old family recipes of matriarch Doña María Gutiérrez Molina. Let the space take you on a journey through regional Mexican cuisine while the food changes your perception of the typical Tex-Mex dish with offerings like the rich mole ozumbeño. The restaurant honors dishes from Mexico City on Mondays and does an authentic taco night on Tuesdays. A blink-and-you’ll-missit spot, Malinche is one you want to keep your eye out for. $$. Open Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m.

Nudo House

Behind the fast-casual model at Nudo House (multiple locations including 11423 Olive Boulevard, Creve Coeur; 314-274-8046) is a decidedly slow-food ethos, with broths and meats simmering and marinating for days to maximize flavor. The restaurant’s signature Classic Nudo shows how much beauty can come from taking so much time and care with food. Tender slices of pork belly marinate for two days and are then braised before being allowed to grace the masterful pork tonkatsu broth, which tastes as if the entire essence of pork has been distilled into one spoonful. Vegetarians, meanwhile, should thrill to the Shroomed Out. It has the luxurious texture typically reserved for cream-based soups, with a deep umami taste that mimics the satisfaction of beef stew. With ramen this good, it’s no wonder Nudo House has been positively packed since its opening. $$. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

The Tavern Kitchen and Bar

In Valley Park, the Tavern (2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park; 636-825-0600) does American comfort food, but elevated. You can get shrimp and grits, Spanish paella or a surf-and-turf tasting board. While the name may make it sound like a humble joint to hoist a few with friends (and you can do that), you’d be missing out if you didn’t try the food. Those with dietary restrictions rejoice; there is a gluten-free and vegetarian menu. $$$-$$$$. Covered patio seating. Open at 5 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.

The Village Bar

Burgers and beers have soothed generations of regulars at the Village Bar (12247 Manchester Road, Des Peres; 314-821-4532). The beloved local watering hole has been in business since Manchester was a dirt road. Not a hole-in-the-wall by any stretch of the imagination, the tavern boasts staying power that has made it a multigenerational center of the Des Peres community, even if Des Peres didn’t exist at the time the Village Bar served its first beer. Though it’s changed hands over the years, its essential character has not: It remains a laid-back place to sit back, relax and enjoy a hearty burger. In

addition to above-average bar food, the Village Bar sets itself apart with its distinct red-andwhite pinstripe exterior. It’s impossible to miss when driving along Manchester. $. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.

Westchester

Approaching Westchester (127 Chesterfield Towne Center, Chesterfield; 636-778-0636) in its Anywhere, USA, strip mall, you might start to get nervous. Don’t be: The minute you enter the restaurant, you enter a wormhole into a gilded, speakeasy-style dining room you’d find in 1920s Detroit. Chef Matt Glickert’s fare is equally transportive and mashes up the farmto-table dining aesthetic with elevated classics. That means that the roasted beet salad — delicate local greens, beets medley, pickled onions, goat cheese — sits with equal status next to standouts like a herb-marinated filet mignon and a roasted chicken that rises above other roasted birds thanks to locally raised chicken. That this can happen in such an unexpected

place is not just good restaurant know-how — it’s magic. $$$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Wudon

Since opening in 2016, Wudon (1261 Castillons Arcade Plaza, Creve Coeur; 314-628-1010) has developed quite a following among the area’s Korean community. The crowd means you’ll be bumping into other patrons, hovering over the tables as others eat and risking a burn as servers rush by with searing-hot griddles. This bustling scene, however, contributes to Wudon’s festive atmosphere. Guests are treated to a kaleidoscope of impossibly fresh banchan — crisp cabbage kimchi, snappy bean sprouts, ginger-scented root vegetables, funky fish cakes. But only a fool would fail to save room for the barbecue. Cooked tabletop to your specifications, it’s absolutely delicious. You might also want to try the kitchen’s transcendent osam-bulgogi or spicy squid and pork belly. $$-$$$. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

NOTABLE IN OAKVILLE

Cellar House

For several years now, chef Chloe Yates has been sharing her talents with St. Louis diners in various ways. There was her time at OSP Tap House, which earned her a reputation for her wonderful beer dinners and landed her a spot, as her alter ego “the Pin-Up Chef,” on Guy’s Grocery Games. From there, she worked alongside pre-Mayo Ketchup Mandy Estrella at the short-lived Alphateria at Alpha Brewing Company, did her own events under the Pin-Up Chef brand after Estrella left Alpha, and eventually went on to launch the food truck Red Dirt Revival with then-business partner Ben McArthur. Through it all, Yates has seemed poised for her big break but was just waiting for the right spot. That happened in February of last year, when her friend and owner of

Cellar House (5634 Telegraph Road, Oakville; 314-846-5100) in Oakville, Patrick Ahearn, needed a chef on the fly. Yates was available, and before she knew it, she’d become general manager and executive chef of the restaurant, finally finding a venue to showcase her talents. Yates has bloomed in this environment, showing off her masterful cooking, knack for multi-layered flavor, talent for knowing just what to do with seasonal ingredients on dishes such as a flawlessly cooked bone-in pork chop accented with chile-pistachio pesto or beautiful scallops served with avocado butter cream, pork belly and fava beans. With Yates at the helm, Cellar House has transformed itself into an essential neighborhood eatery — and Yates has transformed herself into the chef she was always meant to be.

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Beyond And

ST. CHARLES COUNTY

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas

Set in a historic home just off the cobblestone streets of Old Town St. Charles, Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas (325 South Main Street, St. Charles; 636-724-3434) charms diners with its cozy atmosphere, which includes both exposed brick and a fireplace. The menu is an eclectic array of Spanish-style small plates, such as chorizo-stuffed dates, fried calamari and spicy pork and beef meatballs. Bella Vino also offers several pastas and flatbreads; try the excellent seafood risotto for something different. Desserts are made in-house, and the gooey butter cake is a standout. $$$. Patio. Opens Tuesday through Thursday at 4:30 p.m., Friday at 3 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday at 11 a.m. Closed Monday.

Jalea

On Main Street St. Charles you can get a taste of Peru at Jalea (323 North Main Street, St. Charles; 314-303-0144). Many may only know one Peruvian dish, ceviche, and yes, the citrusy seafood melange is on the menu. But Jalea can do more to transport you, offering Peruvian nonalcoholic beverages, such as a fermented barley drink; tiradito, a sashimistyle ceviche with a rotating selection of fish; or jalea, a fried seafood dish that includes flounder, shrimp and calamari and comes with plantain chips. $$-$$$. Open Wednesday through Friday 5 to 9 p.m., and Saturday noon to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m.

Loaded

For the past five years, Brandon Holzhueter and Brad Merten have approached just about every dish they encounter with one simple question: Can this be turned into a nacho? It wasn’t just a thought experiment. The pair were engaged in some serious business, test-

ing the limits of the form so they could launch their restaurant Loaded (1450 Beale Street #130, St. Charles; 636-202-0841), which expands and elevates the snack-time staple from chips and cheese to just about whatever your heart desires. Though a restaurant built entire-

A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2023

KEY

Average price of a complete meal, including tip:

$ = $25 and under

$ $ = $25 to $40

$ $ $ = $40 to $55

$ $ $ $ = $55 and over

ly around nachos might sound gimmicky, Holzhueter and Merten have nailed the tone, thanks to thoughtful offerings created with the same level of care you’d find at an upscale dining establishment. From toasted ravioli to crab Rangoon to gyros to Philly cheesesteaks to jerk chicken, Loaded proves that when it comes to nachos, if you can imagine it, you can do it. $-$$. Open Sunday through Monday from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday through Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Noto

During a trip to the Amalfi Coast, Kendele and Wayne Sieve fell in love with Neapolitan pizza and returned home determined to recreate the classic pies. That passion became a popular food truck that morphed into Noto (5105 Westwood Drive, St. Peters; 636-317-1143), the only restaurant in the area to serve piz-

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za certified by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana. Noto also serves south Italian aperitivo (pre-appetizer small bites), starters, salads, pastas and mains, as well as excellent desserts, like otherworldly tiramisu, that draw on Kendele’s extensive experience as a pastry chef. But that pizza — one bite of Noto’s leopard-spotted crust with its excellent pull and chew transports diners straight to Naples. $$$-$$$$. Open Wednesday to Saturday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Prasino

A bastion of eco chic in the middle of the streets of St. Charles, Prasino (1520 South Fifth Street, St. Charles; 636-277-0202) offers hormone- and antibiotic-free meats, sustainable seafood and organic produce. The ambitious menu changes seasonally and offers everything from sushi to tacos to a pork steak smothered in Fitz’s Root Beer barbecue sauce. Drinks boast a farm-tobar philosophy as well, though the bar is better known as the place to see and be seen in the St. Charles area. $-$$$. Opens weekdays at 11 a.m. and weekends at 8 a.m.

Tony’s on Main Street

St. Charles mainstay Tony’s on Main Street (132 North Main Street, St. Charles; 636-940-1960) is equal parts steakhouse and Italian restaurant — the sort of place where you can get a juicy, perfectly cooked ribeye with a side of fettuccine and an order of cheese garlic bread. For years, this Main Street spot has been welcoming in crowds for its grilled meats — some of the best in the area — topped with a signature steak butter that’s so good, they sell it by the container. Located inside a dark, woodadorned historic storefront, Tony’s on Main is the undisputed place for steaks in St. Charles County. $$-$$$. Open Tuesday to Thursday 4 to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 3 to 10:30 p.m., and Sunday 4 to 8:30 p.m.

METRO EAST

Bakers & Hale

Chef Kelsi Baker Walden, a veteran of 360, Basso and Boundary, opened this spot with her former boss and mentor, acclaimed chef Rex Hale. He’s since shifted to a consulting role, but his touch lives on in the “American comfort food” menu at this farm-to-table spot. Reasonably priced options at Bakers & Hale (7120 Montclaire Avenue, Godfrey, Illinois; 618-433-9748) include tacos, pizzas and sandwiches, as well as creative small plates for sharing. An expert cocktail list and solid choices for both local beer on tap and wine by the glass add to the fun. $$. Patio. Opens at 11 a.m. daily. Closed Tuesday.

BEAST Craft BBQ

Is the best barbecue in St. Louis actually in Belleville? When the RFT’s critic raised that question in 2015, it may have felt like heresy, but in the years since, as St. Louis food lovers have steadily made pilgrimages east to see for themselves, the theory has gained numerous converts. At BEAST (20 South Belt W, Belleville,

Illinois; 618-257-9000), David Sandusky is running a casual, counter-service smokehouse with exacting standards and only the finest products — Compart Farms’ Duroc pork, Wagyu beef from Snake River Farms. The result: a pork steak that’s become the standard upon which all other pork steaks are judged, transcendent pork belly and brisket so good you simply can’t stop eating it. “I want to be the best in the nation,” Sandusky says. It’s not out of the question. Beer and wine only. $$. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Cleveland-Heath

Founders Jennifer Cleveland and Ed Heath are no longer at their namesake restaurant, but the food remains stellar, from the best cheddar biscuits you’ve ever had to a succulent pork chop as juicy and flavorful as a dry-aged steak. Oh, and the steak (served with cheddar-mashed potatoes and glistening with marrow butter) is pretty sweet, too. Don’t let the unpretentious vibe fool you: Like the food, the service and at-

tention to detail at Cleveland-Heath (106 North Main Street, Edwardsville, Illinois; 618-307-4830) are top-notch. No reservations; prepare to wait. $$$. Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Fast Eddie’s Bon Air

Fast Eddie’s (1530 East Fourth Street, Alton, Illinois; 618-462-5532) may or may not be, as one of its brochures boasts, the “No. 1 volume bar in the world.” Nonetheless, this 80-year-old, 400seat institution is almost always packed. Here you can get filling, if not elaborate, meals for just a couple of bucks as long as you’re willing to buy a drink while you’re there and retrieve your own meal from the counter. The menu has a total of seven items, the most expensive being a beef-tenderloin kebab called a Big Elwood on a Stick, topping out at a whopping $5.99. The half-pound Fat Eddie hamburger is a steal at $3.99. Live music keeps things noisy. 21 and older. $. Huge patio. Open 11 a.m. to midnight daily.

NOTABLE IN BELLEVILLE

Clara B’s Kitchen Table

As a little girl growing up in Texas, Jodie Ferguson was enraptured by the way her late grandmother, Clara Bloodworth, held court in her kitchen. Perched on Clara’s hip, Ferguson developed a curiosity for cooking that would become a passion and inform her own journey as a chef. After losing her job with the Ritz-Carlton during the pandemic, Ferguson again looked to her grandmother for culinary inspiration, this time as the driving force behind Clara B’s Kitchen Table (732 South Illinois Street, Belleville, Illinois). Clara B’s began as a food truck but expanded to a brick-andmortar storefront in February of 2022, quickly gaining a legion of loyal followers and critical acclaim for its outstanding, Southern-inflect-

ed daytime fare. Ferguson’s biscuits have become the stuff of legend: golden and flaky on the outside, cloud-like on the inside and so rich you can taste the butter with each bite. They serve as a delectable canvas for a variety of excellent biscuit sandwiches, including the Spicy Honey Chicken, which pairs sweet local honey with Ferguson’s subtly funky secret hot sauce. Already grown out of its digs, Clara B’s has partnered with the Belleville roaster LongStory Coffee and will soon be moving into its recently remodeled space. The expanded kitchen and dining area will afford Ferguson the increased kitchen capacity she’s been dreaming of since first launching Clara B’s, which means there will soon be even more reasons to love this gem.

MABEL SUEN