Scene cityguide 2018 by Chava Communications

City Guide 2018

A handbook to the essential Cleveland experience

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Photo by Emanuel Wallace

City Guide 2018 2018

s the rest of the country — and world — has recently discovered, there’s never been a better time to explore Cleveland than right this minute. That goes for us, too. From food to the arts, from breweries to boutiques, something new and exciting is popping up around every corner. And chances are, even if you’re a Cleveland lifer, there are bits and pieces of the rich tapestry woven across Cleveland’s unique and diverse neighborhoods you have yet to experience. Our annual City Guide is a helpful reminder of just what you’re missing, a guidebook to the essential sights, sounds and tastes from east to west that deﬁne Cleveland. Get exploring.

DOWNTOWN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 DETROIT-SHOREWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Dedicated to Free Times founder Richard H. Siegel (1935-1993) and Scene founder Richard Kabat Group Publisher Chris Keating Publisher Andrew Zelman Associate Publisher Angela Nagal

VP Digital Services Stacy Volhein Digital Operations Coordinator Jaime Monzon

SLAVIC VILLAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

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COLLINWOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

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Editor Vince Grzegorek Editorial Music Editor Jeff Niesel Senior Writer Sam Allard Staff Writer Brett Zelman Web Editor Laura Morrison Dining Editor Douglas Trattner Stage Editor Christine Howey Visual Arts Writers Dott von Schneider Copy Editor Elaine Cicora Contributors Annie Zaleski, Billy Hallal, Philip de Oliveira Interns Michael Wu, Matt Poshedley Advertising Senior Multimedia Account Executive John Crobar, Shayne Rose Multimedia Account Executive Kiara Davis Creative Services Production Manager Steve Miluch Staff Photographer Emanuel Wallace Business Sales Assistant/Receptionist Megan Stimac Controller Kristy Dotson Circulation Circulation Director Don Kriss Euclid Media Group Chief Executive Ofﬁcer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Ofﬁcers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner

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Cleveland Scene 737 Bolivar Rd, #4100 Cleveland, OH 44115 www.clevescene.com Phone 216-241-7550 Retail & Classiﬁed Fax 216-241-6275 Editoral Fax 216-802-7212 E-mail scene@clevescene.com Cleveland Scene Magazine is published every week by Euclid Media Group. Veriﬁed Audit Member Cleveland Distribution Scene is available free of charge, limited to one copy per reader Copyright The entire contents of Cleveland Scene Magazine are copyright 2018 by Euclid Media Group. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. Publisher does not assume any liability for unsolicited manuscripts, materials, or other content. Any submission must include a stamped, self-addressed envelope. All editorial, advertising, and business correspondence should be mailed to the address listed above. Subscriptions $150 (1 yr); $80 (6 mos.) Send name, address and zip code with check or money order to the address listed above with the title ‘Attn: Subscription Department’

SHAKER SQUARE & LARCHMERE . . . . . . . . 17 WEST PARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 CLEVELAND HEIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 LAKEWOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 UNIVERSITY CIRCLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 TREMONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 OLD BROOKLYN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 CLARK-FULTON & THE STOCKYARDS . . . . . 38 ST. CLAIR SUPERIOR & ASIATOWN . . . . . . . 40 OHIO CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

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Photo courtesy Erik Drost FlickrCC

Downtown

East Fourth Street

leveland’s epicenter today would be unrecognizable to anyone who hadn’t seen it in ﬁve years. Development has arrived with great velocity and astounding results on just about every corner. From Heinen’s breathtaking renovation and the litany of posh apartments to East Fourth Street, a sparkling new Public Square, and the ever-burgeoning Flats East Bank, there’s never been a better time to live, work or play downtown. Some 20,000 now call it home, and thousands more ﬂock in for entertainment. A slew of bright, modern hotels welcome visitors drawn to the bustling district that is home to some of the city’s best restaurants, bars, theaters and attractions.

MUST SEE

MUST EAT

The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame might feel like one of those things Clevelanders take for granted. But we should all be paying more attention, and stepping through the doors. The Hall is oh-so-much more than a museum, which isn’t to knock its collection: Do be sure to check out the Beatles’ exhibit, the Rolling Stones exhibit and the Hall’s Right Here, Right Now! collection that showcases items from modern luminaries not yet eligible for induction. But the Rock Hall offers so much more. From concerts, talks, ﬁlms and interactive exhibits, there’s always something new, something to learn, something to experience. Don’t miss the Power of Rock, a spellbinding exhibit featuring video footage and sounds that make the whole room shake.

Cleveland barbecue? Yup, Cleveland barbecue. It wasn’t a thing until Michael Symon opened Mabel’s BBQ on East Fourth Street. Channeling Cleveland’s culinary roots into the immense, timeless and time-honored tradition of American ’cue, the Iron Chef crafted a menu with smoky tastes both familiar and new. There’s brisket, naturally, as well as ribs and chicken, but there are also Polish Boys, lamb ribs, beef ribs (note: Don’t miss the beef ribs) and assorted snacks made from just about every part of a pig that you can name. MUST DRINK

Craft beer fans know Shaun Yasaki from his days manning the brewhouse at Platform Beer, where he helped develop that brewery’s ﬂagship brands. Now they come for his creations at Noble Beast, the name of which is a reference to the style

of beers he likes to brew. Noble, classic styles from Germany and Belgium are countered by more beastly modern American styles. He works from a 10-barrel Portland Kettle Works brewhouse positioned squarely in the middle of the space, a wonderfully renovated two-story operation with a friendly vibe. You won’t ﬁnd dozens of beers on tap here, just a small but wonderful selection that showcases his technical prowess. Also, many of his beers are session-level, a welcome trend if we must say so ourselves. The small draft menu is complemented by a tight food menu from chef James Redford, who turns out nachos, corn dogs and sandwiches that rise above standard brewpub fare. MUST GO

It might seem obvious, but if you’ve never caught a show at Playhouse Square, read on. (Even if you have, read on!) The

impending Hamilton ticket blitz is getting all the word-of-mouth attention lately, but there’s so much more to our theater district. Playhouse Square is the nation’s largest performing arts complex outside of New York City, and the thrill of going to see a touring Broadway musical in one of its elegant theaters really never gets old. There’s something old-timey about it, you know: a night on the town. But it’s not just Broadway musicals you’ll ﬁnd at Playhouse Square. With nine distinct venues, programming includes (but is by no means limited to) comedy acts, variety shows, literary lectures, a summer cinema series and concerts. There’s something happening every night of the week, and with competitive ticket prices and discounted season bundles, seeing high-caliber performing arts has never been as classy nor as comfortable. Yes, and there’s a massive chandelier. SCENE | CITYGUIDE

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Photo by Emanuel Wallace

Detroit-Sh eway Detroit-Sh eway Nashville Hot Chicken at Chow Chow at the Parkview

ike many local neighborhoods, Detroit-Shoreway grew and evolved as immigrants moved into the area. Although settlers of Irish and German descent arrived first in the 1880s, a later influx of Italian immigrants had an even bigger impact. That heritage still has a strong influence in Detroit-Shoreway — the annual Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Church Italian Festival is wildly popular — today the neighborhood is an eclectic melting pot with thriving art, restaurant, theater and entrepreneurship communities. MUST EAT

By now, it’s a cliche to say that a restaurant operates as a farm-totable establishment. However, many of the ingredients for Spice Kitchen & Bar’s (5800 Detroit Ave.) dishes quite literally come from owner Ben Bebenroth’s 13-acre sustainable family farm, Spice Acres, or from other small family farms near Cleveland. That direct pipeline ensures that Spice’s food and cocktail menus are always being refreshed as soon as veggies, fruits and herbs come into season, making each visit a new and adventurous experience. MUST DRINK

The Happy Dog (5801 Detroit Ave.) is known for its loadedto-the-gills hot dogs, which can sometimes obscure the glorious diversity of its beer list. As with every bar in Cleveland, there’s an extensive draft list full of rotating seasonal faves. But the Happy Dog’s bottled options are equally impressive, what with the solid craft beer selections, an (appro-

priately priced) throwback beer section offering up retro brews such as Schlitz, Blatz and Strohs, and even a non-alcoholic beer option. Best of all, the bar’s prices won’t drain your wallet, leaving you with enough change left over for an order of booze-absorbing tater tots. MUST SEE

Although Cleveland Public Theatre (6415 Detroit Ave.) is committed to supporting homegrown artists and professionals alike, its dedication to fostering conversation and communication within the community at large is just as impressive. The theater’s programming is diverse and thought provoking, and aims to illuminate and examine pressing social issues, while its youth-geared programs offer cultural and personal enrichment. CPT’s ability to launch promising works by upstart playwrights is an asset that enriches (and emboldens) the local cultural scene.

MUST PLAY

Back in the ’80s, video game arcades were the hippest places in which to hang, as they were communal gathering places as much as they were gaming emporiums. That’s the vibe of Superelectric Pinball Parlor (6500 Detroit Ave.), whose rows of ﬂashing machines brighten the corner of West 65th and Detroit. In a nod to the owners’ reverence for pinball’s history and evolution, simpler older models — all of which have been lovingly restored to their original colorful glory — are as common as sleek new games. EAT

Chilling out at Toast (1365 West 65th St.) is a lot like kicking back in your living room. That’s partly because the wine bar is in a warm, inviting brick building that resembles an actual house, and partly because everything on the menu — from the shareable snacks to the pastas and bigger plates — feels like a satisfying

home-cooked meal. Don’t miss Toast’s brunch, either, which boasts hangover-ﬁghting small plates (gravy fries! overstuffed French toast!), and lighter offerings. DRINK

On its website, the Daily Press (6604 Detroit Ave.) clariﬁes that it’s “more than a juicery; it is a reﬂection of a lifestyle.” That’s truth in advertising: The menu hews toward healthy and delicious, what with its avocado toast, salad and panini options, as well as smoothies that mix fortifying ingredients with sneaky pops of sweetness. Of course, Daily Press’ array of organic cold pressed juices (which boast clever names such as the Spin Dr. and Kaleing Me Softly) are the real stars here. SEE

Tucked away at the back of the second ﬂoor of the 78th Street Studios is one of the best record stores in America. Think this is hyperbole? Think again: Bent SCENE | CITYGUIDE

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Crayon (1305 West 80th St.) stocks vinyl and CDs from the creme de la creme of experimental and independent labels and acts from around the world. Best of all, musical discovery is a snap here; chances are, you’ll walk out of each Bent Crayon visit with a great record (or two) from a new-to-you act. EAT

Some restaurants try to have a little something on the menu to please everyone. Banter (7320 Detroit Ave.) is not one of those places. The sleek spot has a very speciﬁc food focus — namely, poutine and sausage — and concentrates on developing robust variations on each. Banter’s obsession with unique craft beer and wine is also to our beneﬁt, as the space also offers some of the best imbibing options around.

opened up a bona ﬁde corner bar that sells their sugary wares along with coffee and tasty local brews. The concept is so Cleveland, it should come with a complimentary snow shovel. EAT

Late last year, Janet Jackson was spotted dining at Luxe (6605 Detroit Ave.) before her Cleveland show. If that’s not a ringing endorsement of the convivial Gordon Square bistro, we’re not sure what is — although it doesn’t hurt that the establishment’s extensive menu contains an abundance of indulgent Mediterranean-Italian fare. During the summer, Luxe’s lush private patio bursts with the sounds of local musicians or DJs, giving the space a relaxing vibe like what you might ﬁnd on a tropical vacation. DRINK

EAT

It’s difficult to find authentic Puerto Rican restaurants in Cleveland. Thankfully, Rincon Criollo (6504 Detroit Ave.) dishes up a well-curated menu of traditional fare, especially mofongo, a dish based around a heaping helping of fried plantains; and the restaurant’s famous jibarito sandwich, steak tips between fried plantains. And, of course, flan for dessert. SHOP

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The creative soul behind iLTHY (6602 Detroit Ave.), Glen Infante, is responsible for the gigantic Prince mural that greets people heading to the Flats West Bank. However, the owner of this self-proclaimed art company (the name stands for “I love the hype”) also keeps busy with his brick-and-mortar establishment in Gordon Square, which sells tees, hoodies, caps, bags and other ephemera inspired by pop culture and sports. EAT

Combining beer and donuts is such a brilliant idea, it’s hard to believe this fusion wasn’t a thing until Brewnuts (6501 Detroit Ave.) came along. In recent months, the company has stepped out of the kitchen and

Many coffee shops get antsy when people hang around for hours studying or chatting with friends. Not Gypsy Beans & Baking Co. (6425 Detroit Ave.), a friendly face at the West 65th and Detroit intersection. As its name implies, this corner storefront is a coffee shop with soul-warming soups and sandwiches, along with tantalizing desserts and baked goods. Charming little ﬂourishes, such as cheerful monthly drink specials, go even further to make Gypsy Beans a Gordon Square treasure. SEE

Going to a movie at the Capitol Theatre (1390 West 65th St.) feels like stepping through a portal to the past. Sure, the theater sells drinks, and the seats are cushy and comfortable, but the curling staircase and fancy decor give a hint of vintage Hollywood glamor. The Capitol programs a solid mix of blockbusters and indie ﬁlms, while its late-night retro ﬂicks (and Melt-associated sandwiches) are a nostalgic delight. EAT

The sister bar to Ohio City’s ABC the Tavern (get it?), XYZ (6419 Detroit Ave.) offers the best latenight noshing on the west side, as its kitchen is open until 2 a.m.

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(Added bonus: Their midnight grub menu includes gigantic slices of New York-style pizza.) Throw in more than 20 draft beers, a staggering array of whiskeys and bourbons, and some of the most underrated barbecue in town, and XYZ is an ideal destination any time of day. DO

Try to explain Dyngus Day to most people outside of Cleveland. (Go on; we’ll wait.) In a nutshell, it’s an annual Polish celebration that takes place the Monday after Easter (this year, April 2), that aims to help people blow off steam after Lent. For Clevelanders, it’s become a beloved local tradition centered at Detroit Avenue and West 58th Street (or “Cleveland Dyngus Headquarters,” as the ofﬁcial site says) that features beer, polka music and plenty of bacchanalia. DRINK

Stone Mad (1306 West 65th St.) certainly echoes authentic Irish pubs. Exhibit A: the ornate,

wood-paneled restaurant’s selection of Guinness-based pints and concoctions. (Try a snakebite or black velvet, and thank us later.) However, Stone Mad has much more in common with modern American gastropubs, in the way that the restaurant prioritizes quality scratch-made food with eclectic inﬂuences, and rousing entertainment. Expect sets from local artists, a killer overhead music mix, and room for the rowdy to blow off steam at the Italian bocce ball court. INDULGE

Build up a healthy appetite before visiting the old-fashioned dessert emporium Sweet Moses (6800 Detroit Ave.). The parlor offers up authentic pharmacy-era soda fountain drinks, phosphates, milkshakes, of course, homemade ice cream. (Don’t miss the list of specialty sundaes, most of which are drizzled with kettle-cooked hot fudge!) Plus, in the sneakiest move of all, patrons have to enter and exit right next to a display case full of mouth-watering

chocolate delights, making the chances of an impulse on the way out a good bet. SEE

Near West Theatre’s (6702 Detroit Ave.) mission is to “build loving relationships and engage diverse people in strengthening their sense of identity, passion, and purpose, individually and in community, through transformational theatre arts experiences.” In practice, that means the theater produces intergenerational musicals and plays (as well as ones featuring casts of kids and teens), and uses these productions to instill and reiterate core values (e.g., inclusion, activism, integrity) that will help make the world a better place. SHOP

The Black Market (5407 Detroit Ave.) lives up to its name — and that’s great news for us all. First and foremost, the store carries a well-curated selection of edgier ephemera: taxidermy, jewelry, music

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(cassettes, vinyl and CDs), art, apparel and books. However, the Black Market’s steady slate of decidedly alternative exercise classes adds a welcome, darker dimension to Cleveland’s activity landscape. There’s punk yoga; guided meditation classes sound-tracked by doom metal and drone; and even goth yoga done by candlelight. DRINK

One of the newer kids on the Cleveland brewery block, Terrestrial Brewing Company (7524 Father Frascati Blvd.) opened in 2017 in the converted powerhouse building next to the now-departed Cha. Brewer Ralph Sgro formerly worked at Platform Beer, which no doubt explains why Terrestrial’s concept is rooted in irreverent high-quality beer. After all, how many places decide to name a Scotch ale after the rock band Ween? That would be the Ween Heavy, with its tagline, “Paint the town brown. Sweet and toasty, with a blast of chocolate.”

Photo courtesy @Iheartswine

Slavic llage Saucisson, home to the lady butchers of Fleet Avenue

ne of Cleveland’s most historic neighborhoods was ground zero during the housing crisis, but Slavic Village is slowly but surely climbing out of the hole. It might not get the love that some of the other inner-ring neighborhoods get, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t a whole lot to love and discover. From the Metroparks, along with its Washington Golf Learning Center’s dynamite par-3 course, to delectable (and downright cheap) Polish eats at Seven Roses, old-time sausage purveyors like R&K and some of the best action for cycling in Northeast Ohio, there’s a ton to discover just minutes from downtown. MUST SHOP

MUST VISIT

MUST GO

MUST DO

The lady butchers of Fleet Avenue opened Saucisson just last year, but the shop already feels like an institution. Melissa Khoury and Penny Barend’s meat market offers a rotating selection of products like freshcased sausage, pates and rillettes, nitrate- and preservative-free deli meats like mortadella, and popular items like tasso, smoked chorizo, bacon, jerky, and chicharron. All are made with locally raised meat. Saucisson also offers a prepared soup, sandwich or other meal of the day. A freezer is stocked with soups and stocks, rendered lard, ground meats, soup bones and other items.

Whether it’s for bowling, a clambake, a pop-up comedy show or one of the many, many other events that go down within the hallowed walls of the Slovenian National Home, no one enters the Nash without remarking what a unique and great venue it is. The 100-year-old building, one of eight Slovenian centers that once dotted the city, has emerged into a new life, thanks to Anthony Trzaska who, like many growing up in the neighborhood, attended more ﬁsh fries and community events at the center that he can count. Declining membership and maintenance issues once threatened the life of the building, but since Trzaska’s broadened the Nash’s vision, it has become home to an eclectic mix of events (Hannibal Buress played a show there last year) that bridge Old World and New.

Now entering its ﬁfth year, the annual Rooms to Let exhibition in Slavic Village (usually in late spring) features art installations in vacant homes and empty lots throughout the neighborhood. It’s an ongoing and interactive conversation about neighborhood and housing transformation that lets artists tackle housing issues with temporary artistic creations. The weekend-long event also features live music and performance art. “We pay homage to the people and buildings that previously occupied our community, while describing what the future may hold for Historic Neighborhoods in Legacy Cities — especially at a time when new businesses are moving to Slavic Village and homes are being renovated for new homeowners,” says Christopher Alvarado, executive director of Slavic Village Development.

Sign up for beginners’ classes, available for both kids and adults, at the Cleveland Velodrome, an Olympic-style bike race track in Slavic Village. Yes, there’s an Olympic-style velodrome track in Slavic Village. It’s free — but make sure to sign up online — and you can use one of their track bikes while you learn about ﬁxed gear riding, stopping and starting, parts of the track, how to get on and off the track, how to ride a smooth line, what the different lines mean and basic track rules and etiquette. It’s a blast, and it’s the only place in the region to try it out.

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Photo by Bridget Caswell

Collinwood Good times and smiles at the Waterloo Arts Fest

uring the early half of the 20th century, Italian and Slovenian immigrants gravitated toward and settled in the industrial hub of Collinwood, creating an enclave with a vibrant culture. The neighborhood’s population evolved and changed post-World War II, as societal and employment shifts reverberated throughout Cleveland, although Collinwood emerged from decades of turmoil as a community that’s ﬁrmly on an upswing. In fact, the area’s tight-knit feeling has grown stronger than ever today, thanks to business district merchants, and a thriving arts scene, that support one another’s endeavors. MUST EAT

MUST DRINK

MUST SEE

MUST DO

The motto at Citizen Pie (15710 Waterloo Rd.) is “Pizza for the people,” although the slogan could easily be revised to “Perfect pizza for the people.” The cozy restaurant’s simple Neapolitan pies are created using traditional ingredients and cooking processes, which ensure they’re uncommonly decadent ’zas. Seating can be at a premium in the storefront, which is directly across the street from the Beachland, but nobody will judge if you stand around outside and dig into a slice while the pizza is piping hot.

Only in Ohio would a neighborhood bar take its name from a president of the United States, and a Whig Party die-hard at that, who only ascended to the position because Zachary Taylor died while in ofﬁce. But the 13th president actually doesn’t have a library of his own, making the Millard Fillmore Presidential Library (15617 Waterloo Rd.) — a musical mecca with open-mic nights, monthly vinyl spins and local bands playing on the weekends — something rather special indeed. Reasonable beer prices and a welcoming atmosphere make it a great spot for a pre-Beachland drink, or a low-key place to unwind and catch some tunes.

Neighborhood anchor Waterloo Arts Gallery (15605 Waterloo Rd.) isn’t just the biggest supporter of Collinwood’s growing arts district: It’s also a vocal champion for all of Northeast Ohio’s burgeoning arts scene. That’s obvious in the mind-expanding exhibits that cycle through the gallery in a given year — all of which encompass diverse mediums and approaches — and the community-oriented way it approaches operations. After all, few organizations would dare to combine their annual meeting with a Valentine’s Day card-making party — a welcoming, transparent gesture that makes the public feel connected to both the gallery and culture at large.

There’s no better way to get to know the ins and outs of the neighborhood than by attending Walk All Over Waterloo. Held the ﬁrst Friday of every month, even during the winter months, the event highlights what’s cooking in Collinwood: art gallery openings and shows, local musicians, new community initiatives, and retail shops. Think of Walk All Over Waterloo as a giant organized block party — only the entire city is invited.

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by Paula Vogel / Directed by Amy Bistok Five aging practitioners of the oldest profession, faced with diminishing clientele, increased competition and aching joints live out their stories with wit, compassion, humor and some pretty naughty songs as they struggle under the burdens of trickle-down economics.

March 23 – April 14

IN THE BLOOD by Suzan-Lori Parks / Directed by Cory Molner In a modern riff on The Scarlet Letter, Hester La Negrita, a homeless mother of five, lives with her kids on the tough streets of the inner city. While her kids fill her life with comical joy, the adults only hold her back. Nothing can stop the play’s tragic end.

May 18 – June 9

AND ALL THE DEAD LIE DOWN by Harrison David Rivers / Directed by Ismael Lara The story of a sero-discordant gay couple (Foss is HIV+, Alvin is not) dealing with their mixed status relationship, stigmatization, the importance of connection to family (or lack thereof) and their very different cultural backgrounds is brought to a head by an unexpected visit by Foss’ delinquent brother.

July 6 – 28

THE CASUAL TREE WARD by Robert Hawkes / Directed by Susan Soltis World premiere! The goddess Freyja (or is she?) is tending Yggdrasil, the World Ash Tree (or is it?), trying to protect it from increasing drought. An itinerant water-bearer tries to persuade Freyja to go with him to where water is plentiful. She refuses. Does the world really depend on this single tree, or is this a self-generating myth?

August 24 – September 15

THIS MUCH (or an act of violence towards the institution of marriage) by John Fitpatrick / Directed by Clyde Simon Mid-west premiere! Gar can’t decide between the man who plays games and the man on one knee with a ring. Every choice seems like a compromise. Everyone wants answers, but nothing lives up to the image he has in his head. Facades start crumbling as his world implodes around him, but Gar just wants to dance with his friends.

October 12 – November 3

RAPTURE, BLISTER, BURN by Gina Gionfriddo / Directed by Geoffrey Hoffman Ohio premiere! After grad school, Catherine built a career as a rockstar academic, while Gwen built a home with her husband and children. Decades later each woman covets the other’s life, commencing a dangerous game of musical chairs—the prize being Gwen’s husban. A comedy that’s an unflinching look at gender politics.

November 30 – December 15

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riginally a transportation hub between the suburbs and downtown, Shaker Square was built by the Van Sweringen brothers in the 1920s and was named a historical landmark in 1980. With some of the best restaurants in town, a movie theater and a farmers market, Shaker Square serves as the — very scenic — town center between the border of Shaker Heights and Cleveland. Just a stone’s throw away, Larchmere is known for its quirky charm and offbeat personality, exempliﬁed by its eclectic shopping scene that includes 40 shops and art galleries, all independent and locally owned, and its robust, diverse roster of restaurants. MUST EAT

MUST SHOP

MUST SEE

Doug and Karen Katz’s Fire has been a staple of Shaker Square since it opened in 2001, one of the ﬁrst restaurants that arrived after the square’s renovation. A cool vibe and a sizzling menu of attentively prepared American fare have turned this bistro into one of the city’s top restaurants. “Classical simplicity” is the watchword here, and when those classical techniques are applied to ﬁrst-rate ingredients, the results are often nothing less than astonishing. In addition to serving up dinner, the restaurant is also known for one of the best weekend brunches in town (the homemade sticky buns are a must). They also have an extensive wine list and homemade pickles by Katz’s father.

How can a bookstore that shares its space with a shop that sells antique Persian rugs not be a place you’d want to spend hours browsing around? Loganberry Books is the sort of warm, inviting new and secondhand bookshop now found only in college towns or the arty sections of a handful of major cities. There are some real gems to be found in its tall, closely packed stacks and rooms that seem to go on forever, including used and antique hardcover children’s books, an eclectic selection of ﬁction, and long-out-of-print volumes of poetry by the likes of Edna St. Vincent Millay, Kenneth Koch, and Anne Sexton.

Drive or walk just minutes away from the shops and restaurants of Shaker Square and you’ll be around the picturesque Shaker Lakes area, which features some of the most historic homes in the country. North Park and South Park boulevards are where you’ll see some truly beautiful and astounding houses, some built as early as the middle of the 19th century. Stop at the Shaker Lakes for a hike and some much needed tranquility. MUST SUPPORT

In 2013, Brandon Chrostowski opened Edwins Leadership Institute and Restaurant at Shaker Square. Not only is the French bistro one of the ﬁnest restaurants in town, it’s also

a nonproﬁt organization that hires and trains convicted felons to work the restaurant. Chrostowski started Edwins with the belief that, “every human being regardless of their past has the right to a fair and equal future”. Everything on the menu is superb, but we’re big fans of the burger that’s prepared tableside, as well as the duck, all delivered with top-notch service. DRINK

Larchmere’s Academy Tavern is one of the oldest drinking establishments, not just on the east side, but in all of Northeast Ohio. Like a well-worn couch, this vintage corner tavern may show its age, but its comfort is undeniable. For proof, just look at the diverse clientele. The tavSCENE | CITYGUIDE 17

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ern started serving cocktails just after Prohibition, in 1939, and has been a staple of the neighborhood since. The art-deco style and wooden bar makes this the perfect atmosphere to enjoy a beer from their superb draft list. Whether you want a quiet place to watch the Cavaliers’ game or want to see some local live music on Wednesday nights, this is the spot. SHOP

The Larchmere neighborhood is widely known for its extensive offerings of antique and art shops. American Crafts is known for their collection of contemporary ceramics, wood and glass made by American artists from around the country. John L. Young Inc. specializes in antiques and jewelry from Asia. Elegant Extras features antiques for entertaining, like porcelain, crystal, and ﬁne silver, and also has a wide selection of costume jewelry. Bingham’s Antiques has an eclectic mix of unique decorative arts from the middle of the 20th century. Marc Goodman’s Antique Mall contains six separate dealers of ﬁne furniture, artwork, glass, pottery, china, jewelry and more. EAT

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The cozy Felice Urban Cafe is tucked inside a restored Craftsman-style home. Awaiting diners is unfussy and affordable Mediterranean fare, much of it with a decidedly Spanish ﬂair. There’s grilled octopus, a braised pork belly sandwich, a chimichurri Berkshire pork chop and garlicky seafood stew, which all can be enjoyed on their beautiful outdoor patio and carriage house in the summer. Margaret Mueller founded Felice in 2008, and recently sold the restaurant to her grandson Jack, and his husband Paul Neundorfer, who have updated the menu to include more vegan and vegetarian options. EAT

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One of the only Brazilian restaurants in town, Batuqui ﬁts perfectly into the dining scene

of Larchmere. Set in a 120-year old Victorian, it feels more like you’re sitting in a home than a restaurant. Get your meal started with a traditional sweet, sugary Brazilian cocktail like a caipirinha or a Copa Kiss before diving in to some of the delectable small plates on the menu, like torresmo com mandioca, a bar snack of fried pork belly and yucca. For an entree, we recommend the feijoada. A Brazilian party dish, this stew is a mixture of black beans, locally sourced bacon, ham, beef, smoked porkloin, smoked kielbasa, and imported linguiça and is served with Brazilian rice, farofa, sauteed collard greens and tomato relish. EAT

When Phil the Fire closed in 2004, it left a void in the soul food department at Shaker Square. But in 2014, Zanzibar brought back that soul with a menu of upscale soul-fusion cuisine. Owner Akin Affrica, whose family runs Angie’s Soul Cafe, has not only spiffed up the notion of a soul food restaurant, he has spiffed up the notion of soul food. Expect shrimp and grits, catﬁsh Po’ Boys, and chicken and wafﬂes, all served up in a tasteful setting. Some of the recipes date all the way back to 1985, when they were used at Angie’s Soul Food in the now-defunct Carnegie Hotel. SEE

The North Union Farmers Market operates farmers markets all over town; Shaker Square’s market was the ﬁrst, in 1991. Every Saturday, starting on the ﬁrst Saturday in April and going all the way to the end of December, this market features something for every shopper, whether you’re looking for fresh produce, baked goods, art and jewelry or a hot lunch. They even have Geoff Baldwin, a sheep shearer, who shares stories with passersby while shearing his sheep. They also have the Chef at the Market program, featuring local chefs

Photo by Emanuel Wallace

teaching market-goers how to cook the latest seasonal recipes. The Spring Flower Market is also a must if you’re looking to add some plants to your garden. EAT

If you’ve never had an arepa before, you need to head to Barrocco ASAP. Arepas, which hail from Colombia and Venezuela, are grilled white tortillas stuffed with a variety of ingredients. The La Gringa, stuffed with braised beef, feta cheese, avocado, chimichurri, greens and mozzarella, and the Buffalo Chicken are two of our absolute favorites. Barrocco also has fantastic live Latin music three nights a week. EAT

Sasa, a sushi and tapas restaurant, introduced the concept of izayaka to Cleveland. Izayaka is a cross between a sit-down dinner and a night at the pub, and this spot is the perfect place to share sushi and small plates

Larchmere Porch Fest

like their award-winning tempura fries and their Kobe beef meatballs. The Sasa Fire Roll is ﬁlled with lobster, crawﬁsh, masago salad and Chinese broccoli, topped with shrimp, spicy mayo and unagi sauce, and then brought to the table and set on

ﬁre, making for one of the more fun dishes in town. EAT

The historic Popcorn Shop of Chagrin Falls opened all the way back in 1949; they ﬁnally opened their second location, Dewey’s

Popcorn, at Shaker Square in 2004. This old-timey shop features Euclid Beach custard from the gone-but-still-beloved Euclid Beach amusement park, along with local ice cream, old fashioned candy, and of course locally crafted popcorn and popcorn balls.

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Photo by Emanuel Wallace

West Park

Serving up comfort food at the Red Lantern

ocated just south of Lakewood and just east of Rocky River, West Park doesn’t possess any well-deﬁned boundaries. Originally, before Cleveland absorbed the independent “village,” West Park consisted of everything west of 117th Street to Rocky River Reservation. Today, locals consider it to be the territory that lies west of 130th Street. With its brick bungalow, single-family houses and easy access to the Rocky River Reservation, West Park feels more like the suburbs than the city, but that’s part of its charm.

MUST EAT AND DRINK

The collection of bars and restaurants clustered at Kamm’s Corners is a major draw. P.J. McIntyre’s Irish Pub is owned by Patrick Campbell and his wife, Rebecca Brady-Campbell, principal dancers from Lord of the Dance. No surprise it houses an Irish dance academy. Known for its Friday ﬁsh fry and its “perfect pint” of Guinness, the nearby Public House feels historic (it dates back to the 1920s), and both West Park Station and Back Stage Bar feature live bands and solid food. Ostensibly a biker bar (but the place welcomes anyone), Smedley’s Bar and Grille features jam nights on 20 SCENE | CITYGUIDE

Wednesdays, and the locals love the Sunday taco bar. Chef Ken Hatfield has raised eyebrows with the comfort food he serves up at Hatfield’s Goode Grub, and AThai adds an ethnic flair to the street.

in conferences. Geeks descend upon the place annually for Free Comic Book Day, which generally draws hundreds of comic book fans who line up around the block before the store opens.

MUST SHOP

MUST GO

For years now, Carol & John’s Comic Shop has remained one of the top comic book shops in the region. You’ll find thousands of comics meticulously sorted into labeled boxes. The shop also sells various figurines and toys. One of the best Facebook marketers in the country, co-owner John Dudas regularly flies to California to participate

Now in its 12th season, West Park’s mid-June to mid-October Farmers Market has steadily grown over the years. The market started with only 11 vendors but now boasts close to 30. The market, which takes place on Sunday mornings from 10 to 1 p.m. in the parking lot behind the Walgreens at West 168th Street and Lorain Avenue,

features live music and chef demonstrations in addition to an assortment of locally sourced fruits and veggies. MUST GO

Now in its ninth year, the Hooley is an annual West Park homecoming celebration. The festival came to fruition when the Kamm’s Corners’ street-scaping project was completed nearly 10 years ago, and the locals started clamoring for a festival that would deﬁne the neighborhood. The family friendly event takes place each May, featuring bands, vendors, and arts and crafts, and attracting thousands.

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Cleveland Heights Flavors of Ethiopia at Zoma

f Cleveland is your Paris, Cleveland Heights could be your Montmartre. Once an outpost of ’70s counter culture, today’s Heights is a somewhat more polished place where young professionals, students and hipsters mingle in cafes, dive bars and theaters. The Heights has evolved over the centuries; what began as log cabin wilderness is now one of the Top 10 largest cities in the Greater Cleveland area. It’s also one of the greenest, with more than 130 acres of parks. The Heights also has numerous claims to fame, from oil magnate John D. Rockefeller to Academy Award-nominated actress Debra Winger. MUST SEE

MUST EAT, SEE AND DRINK

MUST EAT

Most moviegoers tend to suffer in silence while some bro snort-laughs at the gazillionth explosion in the latest multiplex dreck. Clevelanders, though, take refuge at the Cedar Lee. With a history that goes back to the days of silent film, the Cedar Lee specializes in artsy films but does not shun the worthy mainstream stuff. The theater began as a single-screen room that could seat 1,100 people. By the time it hosted the first Cleveland International Film Festival in the late ’70s, the Cedar Lee had expanded to six screens. Each Monday, patrons can get a ticket for just $5 (except for the occasional 3-D showing) and purchase discounted concession items. On Mondays through Thursdays, the Cedar Lee offers discounted beer, wine and cocktail specials.

True to its name, Nighttown’s eclectic vieux temps decor is imbued with a smoky atmosphere that makes it one of Cleveland’s most evocative jazz venues. Nighttown’s home is a historic 1920s building full of memorabilia and accents from various decades. Former owner John Barr bought three adjoining storefronts later on to create the composite that is today’s popular restaurant and jazz club under the current ownership of Brendan Ring. Legends who have held the Nighttown stage include Benny Golson, TV host Dick Cavett, Esperanza Spalding, Maynard Ferguson, McCoy Tyner and Stevie Wonder. Executive chef Nathan Sansone is credited with keeping Nighttown’s culinary offerings up to date with his farm-to-table philosophy and streamlined kitchen.

Previously a stand-alone butcher shop, Mister Brisket now offers the full sit-down deli experience in its recently opened 1,000-square-foot dining area that seats about 25 guests. The shop was founded in 1974 by Mister Brisket himself, Sanford Herskovitz. Mister Brisket is famous for its corned beef, pastrami, steak, poultry, seafood and, yes, even pork. (Herskovitz reportedly doesn’t keep kosher.) Stepson Hank Kornblut has taken over the business, which goes back to Herskovitz’s father.

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MUST SEE

As one of the region’s preeminent full-time professional theaters, Dobama Theatre produces six mainstage plays each year. Productions tend to focus on pressing social issues. After a few years of instability, Dobama has found a permanent home

on Lee Road. Dobama specializes in Cleveland or American premieres of new plays. This spring, Dobama will produce the regional premiere of the Obie-winning play, “Appropriate,” by Branden Jacobs-Jenkins. DO

There are dive bars, and then there’s B Side Liquor Lounge and Arcade. The name itself hints at the bar’s alternative, indie atmosphere and clientele. Sitting just beneath the Grog Shop, one can pre-game or cap off an evening of music in glorious hipster fashion. Take in a B movie (usually Sharknado) on one of the TVs at the bar, challenge a group of friends to a pinball match, catch some impromptu karaoke, or hang out on the back patio on a balmy Cleveland summer eve. Oh, and don’t miss Mug Night: $2 PBR mugs every Wednesday.

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Th city-owned Cain Park, just eight miles east of Cleveland, boasts an outdoor amphitheater, dining options and an art gallery in addition to the usual amenities such as picnic areas and lighted tennis courts. The annual Arts Festival gives visitors a chance to purchase artwork from local, award-winning artists. This season’s performance highlights include Memphis: The Musical and a concert by the Monkees. DO

Eddy’s on Coventry Salon & Barbershop is legenday. The Eddy in the name is founder Eddy Maddox. Eddy’s has two locations in historic Coventry Village: a barnyard-chic salon and, just a few doors down, a barbershop managed by master barber Chuck Falk. Maddox, an Army veteran and boating enthusiast, opened his ﬁrst salon just up the street and has more than 25 years of styling experience. Men’s haircuts start at $25, while women’s start at $50. The salon also offers coloring services and eyebrow/lip waxing. DO

This grungy, intimate music venue is one of the remaining bastions of Coventry’s counter culture history. Grog Shop has hosted such acts as Elliot Smith, Sleater Kinney, Fu Manchu, Wiz Khalifa, W. Kamau Bell, and many others. On Euclid Heights Boulevard since 2003, Grog Shop has a large standing area and full bar with imported and domestic beers as well as local microbrews. Grog Shop holds its popular Silent Disco on the last Saturday of every month. Upcoming performances include Drake Bell, Floco Torres and an album release by Punch Drunk Tagalongs. SEE

The nonproﬁt Heights Arts gallery displays works by local and regional artists and hosts regular community arts workshops. Its galleries on Lee Road host ﬁve group exhibitions and six solo exhibitions each year. 24 SCENE | CITYGUIDE

Grog Shop action

Heights Arts also presents chamber music and community concerts at intimate venues around town. In the spring, Heights Arts will present an all-J.S. Bach concert featuring members of the Cleveland Orchestra, and a performance by Burning River Baroque. Works by ceramist Sharon Grossman and a host of materials-minded artists are on display through mid-March. EAT

James Beard-nominee, chef Doug Katz, is credited with raising the proﬁle of farm-fresh cuisine in Cleveland. The Katz Club Diner itself embodies sustainability, settled inside a repurposed metal dining car with that classic mid-century, quasi-surgical sheen. The metal car was originally found in Berwyck, Pennsylvania, and came to Cleveland Heights in 1997. It was then attached to another diner car from Atlantic City, New Jersey. Following a 2014 arson that caused $900,000 of damage, the diner car now exists as a pop-up restaurant and catering business.

EAT

An anchor of the historic Cedar-Fairmount district, Luna Bakery and Cafe is owned by pastry chef Bridget Thibeault. Luna adjoins an ofﬁce building, and equally accommodates onthe-go professionals and hearty brunchers in search of fresh pastries, crepes and sandwiches. A few doors down, Luna’s Cake Shop offers appointment-only confections for weddings and other occasions. Catering is also available. DRINK

La Cave du Vin, a cellar-inspired wine bar, is about as intimate as it gets. After walking in off the street and experiencing a variety of unpredictable odors on the way down the stairs, patrons enter an earthy yet cozy space where candles and luminescent baubles cast long shadows on the stone walls. Guests can pick out their own spirits from a well-appointed display at the far end of the main seating area, or order from a constantly changing selection of ﬁne wines at the

bar. La Cave offers $5 wineby-the-glass specials daily. It’s a dimly lit and romantic spot for a date, unless you ﬁnd yourself with the two-faced girlfriend from Seinfeld. DO

Quintana’s Barber & Dream Spa is something different depending on who you ask. To many, it’s one of the best barbershops in Cleveland. To others, it’s a stunning blastfrom-the-past speakeasy on the second floor of one of the best barbershops in Cleveland. The latter is right out of the movies: go up a narrow staircase, flip open a book on a shelf, push a small button, and step through a bookcase into the Prohibition era. Chilean immigrant Alex Quintana opened the barbershop with his wife Dawn in 2003, adding the speakeasy only a few years ago. It’s the first barbershop in Ohio to carry its own liquor license. Bartender Adam Acuff has expanded the speakeasy’s offerings from basic bourbon pours to a full bar.

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Lakewood Snacks and cocktails with attitude at LBM

his inner-ring westside suburb has always had an eclectic vibe, thanks to its bevy of independent shops and eateries; locally owned small businesses; and abundance of cheap, character-laden dive bars. Although the city has certainly evolved over the years — many of the grittier drinking establishments have closed or been transformed into nicer places, thanks to Lakewood’s booming restaurant scene — the community itself remains as vibrant (and diverse) as ever, thanks to an inﬂux of twentysomethings and young families. MUST EAT

The James Beard Foundation recently named Salt’s Jill Vedaa as a semiﬁnalist in the category of Best Chef in the Great Lakes Region. That prestigious designation was just conﬁrming what we in Northeast Ohio already know. The TLC that Vedaa puts into every item on Salt’s menu — which is precisely divided between veggie, seafood and meat small plates — has quickly made the restaurant a must-visit dining destination. A luxurious cocktail menu and carefully curated wine list also don’t hurt. MUST DRINK

Back in the day, Lakewood’s bars tended to lean toward the no-frills, shot-and-a-beer variety. Times sure have changed, as evidenced by new(er) kid on the block, LBM, which is billed as “your friendly neighborhood Viking cocktail bar.” In the hands of other proprietors, this conceit could be cheesy. At LBM, howev26 SCENE | CITYGUIDE

er, the Viking theme works like a roguish charm, in the form of an affordable, adventurous cocktail menu with unique spirits and concoctions. Who won’t feel like conquering the night after sipping on drinks dubbed the Wayward Souls and Crimson Seeds? MUST SEE

In the past few years, Lakewood Park has exploded in popularity. Sure, that’s because of the ongoing greatness of Foster Pool (another hidden gem in the city) and the kid-friendly playground. But the 2015 addition of the Solstice Steps cemented Lakewood Park’s reputation as a greenspace gem. The tiered, elevated steps offer a gorgeous view of the sunset, as well as a place to relax and soak up some rays during the all-too-rare warmer months. MUST DO

Going to Mahall’s is like stepping back in time. That’s a good thing: Although the 1920s-era al-

ley received some updates in the past few years, the bowling is still as old school as it comes. What’s new (and welcome) is how Mahall’s has become a much-needed westside entertainment destination. The complex now regularly hosts all sorts of events: DJ nights and dance parties, comedy shows, and concerts from local and touring pop, punk, indie and emo bands. Plus, the bar has a small but mighty beer list and food menu that’s perfect for latenight noshing. EAT

There’s a reason why Pier W (12700 Lake Ave.) has remained one of the area’s most beloved upscale dining destinations: Patrons can get ﬁrst-class service, seafood and steaks — and a ﬁrstrate view of downtown Cleveland — without completely breaking the bank. Just a word of warning: Although its bar happy hour tends to be jammed — its prices and tasty menu selections make it a go-to destination — during nic-

er months, Pier W’s relaxing deck happy hour isn’t to be missed. EAT

It’s a testament to how far Cleveland has come that there’s an all-vegan restaurant ﬂourishing in Lakewood’s main corridor. Cleveland Vegan’s (17112 Detroit Ave.) inventive menu encompasses a diverse array of breakfast and lunch dishes, delights including mocha overnight oats, raw walnut tacos and a healthy beet burger, as well as fortiﬁed smoothies and lattes, tea and coffee, and even decadent desserts. The shop has even started offering a personal chef service that provides six meals and one dessert per week, either via door-to-door service or at the cafe. DRINK

Many places call themselves “English-style pubs.” The Grifﬁn Cider House & Gin Bar (12401 Madison Ave.) is the real deal. An offshoot of the locally brewed Grifﬁn Cider Works,

this intimate pub carries the company’s tart (and powerful) ciders, as well as a selection of bottled ciders and beers, and a generous selection of gin. Their food selection is limited but dynamite — their ﬁlling Scotch eggs and Cornish pasties are the perfect things for soaking up a strong pint (or three). SEE

Northeast Ohio has no shortage of unique or under-the-radar museums. Lakewood’s Museum of Divine Statues (12905 Madison Ave.) might take the cake. Housed in the former St. Hedwig’s Church, the museum has a mission to “preserve Catholic history by rescuing, restoring and displaying ecclesiastical statues and other sacred artifacts in a reﬂective and respectful museum setting.” Accordingly, visitors can see all sorts of Catholic ephemera — including statues lovingly restored by Lou McClung, who owns the nonproﬁt

museum — during its weekend afternoon hours. DO

Who needs pricey movie theaters when Lakewood Public Cinema (15425 Detroit Ave.) exists? Every Saturday at 6 p.m., the Lakewood library opens its doors to the public and plays a classic movie, for free! Smartly, their version of “classic” is wide ranging and diverse, and caters to movie buffs of all ages. In the upcoming spring and summer session, selections being lensed include Amélie, 2001: A Space Odyssey, Mr. Smith Goes To Washington, and The Man Who Knew Too Much. EAT

It’s not a stretch to say that Root Cafe (15118 Detroit Ave.) is the heart and soul of downtown Lakewood. Good overhead tunes, a vegan-friendly (and gluten-free-friendly) menu with homemade dishes and baked goods, and tasty coffees and

teas make it a vibrant community hub. Sure, it’s sometimes impossible to ﬁnd a table or chair during busy hours, but there’s nothing quite like the creative energy coursing through the Root to provide a jolt of inspiration. DO

Home of one of the best used LP bins and some of the most loyal customers in town, My Mind’s Eye (16010 Detroit Ave.) is the area’s go-to record store for punk, metal, blues, rock and soul — and most things in between. Plus, owner Charles will special order (almost) anything he doesn’t have in stock — after he turns you on to something else that’s cool, obscure and in your sonic wheelhouse, of course. EAT

It’s safe to say that Yuzu (13603 Madison Ave.) dreams up the most creative theme nights in the city; Disney Princess Trivia Night or Blink-One-Eighty-

Tuesday, anyone? Still, these lighthearted gatherings are a good way to check out Yuzu’s izakaya-inspired menu, which features rice bowls, ramen and Korean fried chicken as well as yakitori. As an added bonus, Yuzu also has a dedicated menu for pooches — including an ohso-fancy dog biscuit ﬂight and dog beer! — which means you can party with your furry friends as well as your human ones. DO

This isn’t the Nintendo binge of your childhood. At the popular 16-Bit Bar + Arcade (15012 Detroit Ave.), patrons sip on boozy cocktails named after retro crushes — Molly Ringwald, Carrie Fisher, Patrick Swayze and Marky Mark, say — to earn free plays on a rotating list of old-school arcade games and pinball machines. Whether you’re an ’80s kid (Galaga, Asteroids) or a product of the ’90s (NBA Jam, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles), 16-Bit is sure to have a game for you.

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Clevelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s already-robust record store scene became even stronger in 2017 with the opening of Wax Bodega (13339 Madison Ave.), which, as its name implies, stocks plenty of new vinyl by up-andcoming indie, punk and emo bands. The minimalist store has also booked in-store performances and signings with touring acts, such as Roam, the Flatliners, and members of Modern Baseball, playing at nearby clubs, creating a mini musical corridor thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made Lakewood even more vibrant. DO

Proof positive that Lakewoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bar scene continues to become more diverse: The Side Quest (17900 Detroit Ave.), a self-proclaimed mecca for â&#x20AC;&#x153;geeks and nerds,â&#x20AC;? especially those who prefer to pair beer with board games. These games are available to rent at the bar for a nominal fee (or you can bring your own), although thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not all the bar has on tap, entertainment-wise. The Side Questâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weekly theme nights have a little something for everyone: Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an anime fan happy hour, a beginnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dungeons & Dragons night and even Mario Mondays. EAT

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In 2016, the westsideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s barbecue scene immediately received a bump after the Proper Pig Smokehouse food truck decided to open a brick-and-mortar establishment in Lakewood (17100 Detroit Ave.). The restaurant, which sticks to a central Texas barbecue approach, offers hearty offerings such as bacon on a stick (!), meats by the half pound and gargantuan sandwiches such as the Proper Slopper, which piles on chopped beef brisket, pulled pork, Texas hot link sausage and coleslaw. Bring your appetite. EAT

Lakewood has no shortage of sweet spots: Fearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Confections, Lala Custom Cake, Elmwood Bakery and, of course, a Malleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ice cream parlor. However, the emporium actually named the Sweet Spot (17806 Detroit Ave.) is an under-the-radar gem, scoop-

ing up nothing but delicious gelato. The store offers a generous, rotating selection of fruity, sweet and even savory ďŹ&#x201A;avors. Narrowing down which ďŹ&#x201A;avor to try is difďŹ cult, but if you must choose only one, go with Cookies Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Milk, which contains crumbly chunks of actual cookies. EAT

Anyone frustrated they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get a seat at Momocho, Eric Williamsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wildly successful Ohio City modern-Mexican restaurant, can ďŹ nd solace at its spacious sister, El Carnicero (16918 Detroit Ave.). The Lakewood locale of course has the beloved guacamole â&#x20AC;&#x201D; loaded or regular â&#x20AC;&#x201D; as well as the famed build-your-own taquitos. However, El Carniceroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s huge wraparound bar is also a great place to kick back and watch a game with friends, preferably while sipping on one of the barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many tequilas or tasty cervezas. EAT

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see why people are often lined up outside Peppers Italian Restaurant (12401 Detroit Ave.) waiting for it to open. (Hint: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not just because the old-school Italian joint is relatively small.) The restaurant has a small but mighty menu with nothing but classics (pastas, pizzas and select entrees), all whipped up with plenty of TLC. Be sure to leave room for one of Peppersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; decadent desserts, including a gigantic slice of tiramisu to the fall favorite grape pie. DRINK

The westside iteration of Bottlehouse Brewery (13368 Madison Ave.) opened in 2016 in the former Sullivanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Irish Pub and Restaurant. As with the Cleveland Heights location, patrons can bring in their own food, and hunker down in the tasting room to sample the Bottlehouseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own unique sour beers, meads, cider and other assorted IPAs and ales. For those who might need a caffeinated pick-me-up, Rising Star Coffee Roasters recently made their adjacent pop-up shop permanent.

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Photo courtesy Erik Drost/FlickrCC

University Circle

Wade Lagoon

ou may never guess from the name that University Circle isn’t just where co-eds from Case Western Reserve University hang out. It’s the de facto cultural hub of Cleveland, boasting the city’s ﬁnest museums, cultural institutions, performing arts centers, cafes and restaurants, most within walking distance of one another. University Circle serves as a yearround nexus for Cleveland’s arts and culture scene, welcoming more than 3 million visitors each year. MUST SEE

MUST SEE

MUST INDULGE

The Cleveland Museum of Art is one of the many remarkable cultural treasures in University Circle. It houses nearly 45,000 works spanning from 3,000 B.C.E. to the present. In the age of the selﬁe, the south galleries’ Armor Court is especially popular with tourists cheesing it up among the hollow plate and mail. The lofty atrium, conceived by Uruguayan architect Rafael Viñoly, hosts monthly mixers with live music, airy atmosphere and — of course — booze. The museum’s performing arts series showcases a range of artists in Gartner Auditorium and in the galleries themselves. Provenance Cafe contradicts the old saying about art in restaurants and food in museums. As one of the world’s top museums with free admission, it’s no wonder CMA is one of the most-visited, with more than 700,000 guests each year.

Severance Hall is synonymous with the Cleveland Orchestra, which has called it home since 1931. John L. Severance built the hall in memory of his wife, Elizabeth, whose personality and taste infuse the design by local architects Walter & Weeks. The building’s classic exterior complements the rest of University Circle’s cultural institutions. The interior is an explosion of art deco, classicism, Greek and Egyptian revival. The Cleveland Orchestra performs most of its regular season concerts in the main hall. The more intimate Reinberger Chamber Hall, just off the main lobby, is used for educational programs and chamber concerts. If orchestral music isn’t your style, you can still admire Severance’s eclectic architecture on a free public tour. Call the ticket ofﬁce to reserve a spot.

For those who prefer to pair French-quality baked goods with a smoky Bordeaux, Coquette Patisserie is the place to be. The variety of macarons alone rivals that of any French bake shop, with everything from amaretto and praline to cantaloupe-paprika and spicy Mexican chocolate. Coquette augments a selection of classics like brioche, St. Honores, eclairs, triomphes and tarts with seasonal specials. Chef Britt-Marie Culey, who has more than a decade of experience in the culinary industry, runs the show with verve and taste.

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MUST EAT

L’Albatros Brasserie + Bar, the tucked-away upscale restaurant on Bellﬂower Road, is chef Zach Bruell’s take on classic French cuisine. Once you’ve gotten the name down (the s is not silent, American Francophones),

you can take in the expansive menu featuring a selection of French staples, some of which come with an American twist. L’Albatros clearly puts quality and customer service over empty purism. Portions are generous by French standards. Servers are knowledgeable and able to clarify menu items in case you don’t quite remember what conﬁt is. There are also gourmet pizzas that play on traditional French ingredients, as well as vegetarian options. If your French is less than serviceable, the prices help distinguish between main plates and appetizers. Just don’t try asking about les à côtés at a typical French place; the waiter may not always infer you’re actually after an accompagnement. GO

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Photo by Emanuel Wallace

on certain rare days, cast that iconic Cleveland sunlight onto the street, blinding pedestrians and motorists alike (not exactly ideal when you’re about to go look at art). But Cleveland’s Museum of Contemporary Art’s bold new home is the first U.S. building — and the first museum — designed by Iranian-born British architect Farshid Moussavi. MOCA is one of a handful of museums that has no permanent collection. So while other museums promise something new with each visit, MOCA actually means it. The museum’s 6,000-square-foot top level functions as a versatile exhibition space and offers a view of the outdoor plaza below. This fall, look for a collection of murals and a documentary inspired by the Great Lakes, created by ecologically-minded artist Alexis Rockman. Starting in October, MOCA will host the first U.S. solo exhibition of Yugoslavian multimedia artist Aleksandra Domanovi. DO

From its modest 19th-century beginnings on Public Square, the Cleveland Museum of Natural History has grown into one of the ﬁnest natural history museums in the nation. CMNH is home to a staggering ﬁve million specimens and artifacts, numerous exhibits, and devoted researchers whose work goes far beyond just dinosaurs. The museum’s collections span a variety of natural disciplines including archaeology, botany, ornithology and climate science. The museum’s library contains upwards of 60,000 books and periodicals available for on-site perusal by appointment. The museum also oversees and preserves thousands of acres of land, including the 1.3-acre Singer Lake Bog near Green, soon to be the home of an 8-mile section of the controversial NEXUS pipeline. CMNH recently hosted the traveling exhibit, “The Bearded Lady Project,” which celebrates female contributions to the natural sciences. 32 SCENE | CITYGUIDE

Little Italy’s Feast of the Assumption

SEE

The nationally-acclaimed, nonprofit Cleveland Cinematheque offers screenings of alternative, independent, classic and foreign films nearly every week of the year. Film buffs can take in 16-mm and 35-mm films on a fairly regular basis, though most films are now shown in digital formats. The 300-seat theater resides in the relatively new George Gund Building in Uptown. It’s part of the Cleveland Institute of Art’s new $75 million campus, which turns 3 years old this year. You can’t miss it: Just look for the LED “media mesh” jumbotron as you drive east on Euclid Avenue. SEE

Karamu, a professional theater company named after the Swahili word for “a place of joyful meeting,” focuses on productions that illuminate the African-American experience. Founded by two white social workers, Karamu began experimenting with interracial casts in the early 20th century. Karamu claims the great poet Langston Hughes as one of its most illustrious alums. Karamu’s Performing Arts Theater is part of an artistic settlement that includes

an early childhood development center and a center for arts education. Karamu is listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. SEE

With its 10 acres of outdoor gardens and 18,000-square-foot greenhouse, the Cleveland Botanical Garden is a year-round escape from urban surroundings. Roughly 150,000 guests visit the botanical garden each year. The Eleanor Armstrong Smith Glasshouse focuses on plants and insects from Madagascar’s desert as well as Costa Rica’s tropical rainforest. The garden’s art gallery features nature-inspired works by local artists. The botanical garden is open Tuesday through Sunday; check online for hours. NOSH

It’s rare to ﬁnd exceptional coffee and pastries under the same roof in Cleveland. Fluffy Duck Cafe is one of University Circle’s newest cafes that manages to offer both. Marble surfaces, non-gender bathroom facilities and a bright color palette make for an inclusive and inviting atmosphere. Head baker Ben Woods, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, opened the

2,500-square-foot cafe with a gleaming kitchen as its centerpiece. Flaky puff pastry products steal the show in the cafe’s long, glass display case. Barista Emily Cain runs the coffee side of things, offering classic beverages such as brewed coffee, lattes, cappuccinos and espresso. SEE

There’s something about cemeteries called Lake View and famous people: Think of the Lake View cemetery in Jamestown, New York, where Lucille Ball was eventually moved after a few years in Hollywood. Our own Lake View is the resting place of such 20th century ﬁgures as oil magnate John D. Rockefeller, the untouchable Eliot Ness, Cleveland Orchestra founder Adella Prentiss Hughes, President James A. Garﬁeld, and Abe Lincoln’s former aide and U.S. Secretary of State John Hay. Lake View’s lush grounds are speckled with gravestones and monuments honoring more than 100,000 deceased. The Jeptha Wade Memorial Chapel features an interior designed by stained-glass legend Louis Comfort Tiffany. Docent-led walking tours are available for groups of 12 or more, with a registration fee of $5 per adult.

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Photo by Emanuel Wallace

Tremont

Taste of Tremont

his inner-ring neighborhood, once home to immigrants and steel workers, went through a first revival when artists scooped up spots with low rent and established galleries that turned Tremont into an arts destination. Then came the chefs: first, of course, Michael Symon, but then came Dante Boccuzzi and Rocco Whalen. Now, the neighborhood is awash in a bars and restaurants, keeping Cleveland’s nightlife bouncing and bellies full. You can still find good art, thanks to Doubting Thomas Gallery and the Paul Duda Gallery, as well as a lovely spot to while away an afternoon in Lincoln Park, perhaps after a good cup at one of the spiffy, relaxing coffee joints, like Beviamo, that dot the buzzing streets.

MUST EAT

MUST DRINK

MUST DO

MUST LINGER

Ushabu hasn’t simply become one of the best restaurants in Tremont in its brief history, it’s one of the best restaurants in the city. It brought an elevated, authentic Japanese hotpot joint to the neighborhood, sure; but chef Matt Spinner has also constructed a sharp menu drawing on Asian tastes that wows with its simplicity and depths of ﬂavor. We’d suggest making a reservation, as this cozy, lively spot ﬁlls up fast.

Will Hollingsworth is a student of the game, and by “game” we mean cocktails. He took a century-plus-old basement section of the Tremont Lofts and built, with a detailed eye, reclaimed wood and stained-glass windows, the beautiful Spotted Owl, a cocktail bar at once sophisticated and approachable, largely due to the convivial personalities of the staff. And then there are the cocktails, which change as the Owl debuts new menus throughout the year, and which are seriously and thoughtfully constructed.

Taste of Tremont is one of the most popular festivals on Cleveland’s summer calendar for a bunch of very good reasons. The culinary talents behind the city’s best dining neighborhood offer up street food; vendors line Professor Avenue with apparel, art and more; bands play to the beer garden in the Dante parking lot; and thousands descend to spend the day mingling with friends new and old, over bites and beers.

Amble anywhere near Loop and you’ll be awash in the irresistible and comforting smell of freshly roasted beans. It’s just a first taste of what you’ll find inside — dynamite coffee, fresh muffins and scones, showcases of local art, local comic books and ’zines, and an entire record store. Linger over today’s New York Times or Plain Dealer, meet a pal, do some browsing, pick up tickets to a Beachland or Grog Shop Show, all in one place.

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Photo courtesy This is Cleveland

Old Brooklyn

Taking in the view at the Cleveland Metroparks Zoo

his westside neighborhood has seen a resurgence in recent years. Younger Clevelanders, seeking an alternative to the Ohio City and Tremont neighborhoods, are turning to Old Brooklyn for more affordable living and a growing walkability scene on Pearl Road. While some stalwarts like the 80-year-old Sausage Shoppe will soon close, new places keep popping up, like the Old Brooklyn Cheese Company; Lucy, the ﬁrst Ethiopian restaurant on the west side; and the soon-to-launch coffee/bike/book shop called Coffee Coffee Coffee. The neighborhood, which sits between Brookside Park, the Cuyahoga River and Brookpark and Ridge roads, has long been a haven for immigrants, evidenced by its mix of ethnic restaurants. Ofﬁcially annexed by Cleveland in 1905, the spot has come a long way from its original farmland roots.

MUST EAT

MUST DRINK

MUST SEE

MUST DO

Cleveland has had no shortage of premium donut shops opening up in recent years, but let it be known that Jack Frost Donuts (4960 Pearl Rd.) was slinging the sweet treats well before it was a trend. Since 1937, the Old Brooklyn spot has offered up some of the best donuts in Northeast Ohio. From classic ﬂavors to donuts topped with pretty much any sort of sugar cereal, the shop offers more than 200 ﬂavors throughout the year. You especially can’t go wrong with anything called Death by Chocolate. Plus, with serious renovations to its building in recent years, the shop is as shiny and bright as its confections are delicious.

If it looks like you’ve stepped into an old gas station, it’s because you have. Yet Dina’s Pizza & Pub (5701 Memphis Ave.) is as cozy as a big, family-friendly sports bar gets. The original Old Brooklyn spot on Pearl was struck by lightning, so the business moved to the former Filling Station in 2000. But folks from the neighborhood and beyond continue to ﬂock to the spot for a pint or cocktail. If you’re looking for a good bang for your buck, go with the domestics, around $2. But the whole of the extensive drink menu isn’t that much more. So grab some friends, watch a game on one of their many TVs and don’t forget to score some thick slices of their signature cheesy pizza.

If there’s one thing Old Brooklyn is known for, it’s the Cleveland Metroparks Zoo (3900 Wildlife Way). Home to creatures of every shape and feather since 1882, the zoo is absolutely a must-see attraction for out of towners and locals alike. Especially since the zoo has been inundated with baby animals lately — including a rhino, otters, red foxes and a giraffe. Zoos are typically known for their family-friendly atmospheres, and this one is no different. Be sure to check out free Mondays between Memorial Day and Labor Day, available for all Cuyahoga County and Hinckley Township residents.

A surprise oasis of ﬂowers, vegetables and fruit lies behind Benjamin Franklin Elementary School, and it’s brought Old Brooklyn folks together since 1929. Yes, the largest community garden in all of Cuyahoga County, Ben Franklin Community Garden (1905 Spring Rd.), resides right here and is open May through October, weather permitting. For anyone interested in gardening, or who doesn’t have a yard, or doesn’t want to use their own yard, plots are available. The waiting list can be found at benfranklincommunitygarden.org. For those looking to support the garden in other ways, its Spring Fling 2018 fundraiser hits Sachsenheim Hall on April 14. Contact the Old Brooklyn Community Development Corporation at 216-459-1000 for more information.

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Photo courtesy Metro West CDC

Clark Fulton & the Stockyards

A scene from La Placita open-air market

lark Fulton and Stockyards are located just south of Cleveland’s “destination” near-westside neighborhoods, Ohio City and Detroit Shoreway. Stretching from West 25th to West 82nd, these pockmarked, train-tracked residential neighborhoods are bordered roughly by 1-90 to the north and I-71 to the south. Clark Fulton, named for the intersection of two prominent roads, is home to the city’s densest concentration of Latinos. Stockyards is named for the old Cleveland Union livestock yards located there back in the early 20th century, once one of the nation’s largest slaughterhouse and meatpacking operations. Though these blue-collar areas haven’t been known for luring much economic development, they are rich in culture, and boast some of the best mom-and-pop cuisine in the city.

MUST EAT

MUST DRINK

MUST GO

MUST EAT

The neon sign for Johnny’s Bar (3164 Fulton Rd.) is like a North Star along a stretch of Fulton Road hardly known for its ﬁne dining. Johnny’s is a Cleveland institution, having been around since the 1920s (though it was known as Louise’s Garden until 1952). Featuring upscale Italian dishes — the sea bass is the best we’ve ever had — an impressive wine list, and smooth jazz on the weekends, you can’t help feeling that you’ve stumbled onto the set of some Italian mob movie, or maybe just New York City. That said, this restaurant is as Cleveland as it gets.

If we were hosting our Bavarian friends or relatives, the ﬁrst place we’d take them would be Sachsenheim Hall (7001 Denison Ave.), situated, as we eloquently put it years ago, “on the warning track of Stockyards’ outﬁeld.” With big German beers served in big German glasses — including, yes, boots — not to mention a panoply of decadent fried goodies and one of the best taco Tuesdays in Cleveland, this place is a no-frills gem on Denison. Like many other Stockyards drinking establishments, Sachsenheim feels like it was conjured up from an earlier time, when beer and conversation were all you needed to pleasantly pass an evening.

The St. Rocco’s Festival (3205 Fulton Rd.), held every summer, seems almost humdrum in a city with other long-standing cultural festivals, — including Little Italy’s Feast of the Assumption Festival, and the Our Lady of Mount Carmel Festival in Detroit-Shoreway. But St. Rocco’s, which this year will hold its 103rd annual celebration Aug. 30 through Sept. 3, has a unique local tradition: the Greasy Pole Climb. If you haven’t seen this messy, glorious competition — or, better yet, participated in it — it’s a must. Teams of four try to reach the top of an old utility pole coated top to bottom in axle grease. It’s a weird Italian-American tradition, and St. Rocco’s is keeping it alive.

Caribe Bake Shop (2906 Fulton Rd.), an unassuming cafeteria-style restaurant that began as a bakery and now serves up the best Cuban sandwiches and Puerto Rican cuisine in town, shouldn’t be missed. It’s beloved by the neighborhood Puerto Rican community, but should be embraced by all lovers of bread and meat. Low-cost, low-stress, delicious eats — what more could you ask for? Stand in line, be sure to get an order of the blood sausage, and otherwise pick and choose from succulent Latin-American dishes.

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Photo courtesy Tom Hart FlickrCC

St. Clair Superi & Asiatown

Asiatown’s Night Market

f all Cleveland’s industrial areas, there are none that so freely mix factories and warehouses with housing as St. Clair Superior. These remnants of industry present one of the neighborhood’s major challenges to finding its footing in the 21st century. Slovenians settled in the neighborhood in the 1880s; the post-World War II years saw a new influx of Slavic peoples fleeing communist regimes. Though plenty have since moved to the suburbs, the Eastern Europeans who first peopled the neighborhood have left their mark in buildings like the gorgeous, Byzantine-style St. Vitus Church. Oppressive regimes also brought settlers from China, Korea, and Vietnam. That district, now known as Asiatown, is a hub for Asian groceries and restaurants. While St. Clair Superior is still seeking the same success as its west side counterparts, promising projects like Tyler Village and Hub 55 show that interest and pride in the neighborhood remains.

MUST EAT

When Superior Pho owner Manh Nguyen migrated to Cleveland from Vietnam in the ’70s, he had to drive up to six hours to find a good bowl of pho. So he opened his own restaurant. Named for the street it’s on as well as the quality of its product, Superior Pho was one of the first pho places in Northeast Ohio. It is also one of the best. Notoriously difficult to find — customers are likely to end up in rival shop #1 Pho by mistake — the steaming, complexly flavored broth of Superior makes it well worth the search. Do yourself the favor of patronizing this Asiatown treasure. And once you’ve slurped down your bowl, maybe you’ll have room for their explosively flavorful (and eminently affordable) banh mi.

Prohibition and the national giants shut local brewing down. The neighborhood had been sadly bereft of breweries until Goldhorn Brewery opened its doors in 2016. Occupying the intersection of 55th and St. Clair, Goldhorn is part of Rick Semersky’s Hub 55 project, which strives to reinvigorate neighborhood commerce through good food and beer. Goldhorn delivers on both those fronts. A mix of OldWorld ethos with new-brewery cool, Goldhorn embodies the best qualities of the Contemporary Cleveland Bar: a wide open, formerly industrial space with ﬂoor-to-ceiling windows for natural light. Even the name, a reference to a Slovenian folk tale, pays homage to the neighborhood’s roots. MUST VISIT

MUST DRINK

With its proximity to the lake, St. Clair Superior was the brewing hub of Cleveland before 40 SCENE | CITYGUIDE

It’s a safe bet that many Clevelanders weren’t aware we had an Asiatown (formerly called Chinatown) until a few years

back, when Night Market Cleveland began. Now, for one night each of the warmer months, the usually quiet neighborhood explodes to life on Rockwell Avenue. Inspired by various Asian celebrations, Night Marker draws Clevelanders from all sides of town to enjoy the food, live music, and vendors. With its Asian youth rock bands, Chinese dragons on stilts, and small eats from all over the Asian continent, Night Market celebrates not just Asian culture, but also the resilience of the neighborhood. It’s easy to draw comparisons to the Cleveland Flea, St. Clair Superior’s other monthly open-air event. But you can’t order squid on a stick at the Flea, so we know where our recommendation stands. To take in Asiatown on non-market days, we encourage you to buy something unfamiliar in the fragrant aisles of Tink Holl, one of several bustling indoor Asian markets in the neighborhood.

MUST EAT

Before Cleveland’s resurgence as a “Hot New Food Town,” Slyman’s was carving out a national niche of dining respectability. Slyman’s is as old-school Cleveland as its gets. Founded in 1963 by Lebanese immigrants Joe and Mae Slyman, it’s stayed a family business for over 50 years. Subscribing to America’s “bigger is better” philosophy, they piled their ruby-colored corn beef as high as they could manage. Clevelanders have been running to them ever since. “Bernie Kosar jerseys outnumber the business suits,” begins Esquire’s Best Sandwiches in America write-up. But while the contempt is barely disguised, it works as a portrayal of the deli’s egalitarian atmosphere. Slyman’s draws a truly diverse crowd, which can’t be said for many of our city’s much-hyped newer restaurants. Accept no suburban offshoot substitutes for the original: Take a seat at the counter and bite into Cleveland history.

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Photo courtesy Erik Drost FlickrCC

Ohio City The West Side Market at the heart of it all

ross the Hope Memorial Bridge from downtown into Ohio City and the contrasts are striking. At times, it feels like entering a different city altogether. Which it once was. Incorporated in 1836, the City of Ohio was settled largely by the working-class immigrants who’d built the Ohio and Erie Canal. Ohio City became natural rivals with the slightly more well-heeled settlers on the other side of the river in Cleveland. The two cities came to blows over the Columbus Street Bridge, which took travelers through Cleveland while bypassing Ohio City. No one was killed in what became known as the Bridge War, but we’d have to say the Cleveland side won: Ohio City was annexed by its east side neighbor in less than 20 years. As it continued to draw immigrants over the next century, Ohio City became known for the West Side Market and for its beautiful, Victorian-style homes. Historic restoration efforts from the 1960s onward helped pave the way for the neighborhood’s revitalization. Today, with its dining scene and proximity to downtown, Ohio City is one of the most desirable neighborhoods in Cleveland.

MUST EAT

Karen Small is the godmother of farm-to-table dining in Cleveland, and Flying Fig is her baby. She opened the Fig in 1999, when Ohio City was still largely ignored, if not actively avoided, by many. From its inception, the restaurant was committed to the idea of seasonal, locally sourced food, more than decade before that became a national trend. Her commitment to dining excellence shaped the dining scene of not just Ohio City, but Cleveland as a whole. While other 42 SCENE | CITYGUIDE

area restaurateurs have given in to the temptation to over-expand and compromise quality, Small has kept her operation tiny, manageable and consistently creative. The atmosphere is intimate, and the American fare keeps things simple but surprising, taking dishes like a conﬁt chicken thigh and adding cremini mushroom gravy. The drink menu is as sophisticated as the food, making brunch at the Fig a neighborhood staple. For those on the run, the attached Market at the Fig offers quality

local products and serves consistently great sandwiches. MUST DRINK

Once one of the city’s largest industries, brewing in Cleveland had ceased completely by 1988. That was the year the Conway brothers, Pat and Dan, decided to set up Great Lakes Brewing Company in Ohio City. Rather than alter or tear down the historic Elton Hotel where they began operations, the Conways elected to preserve it, a principle they held to as operations

expanded. Decades ahead of the modern craft brewing movement, the Conways grew their operation into the 21st largest craft brewery in the country. Today, it’s impossible to imagine St. Patrick’s Day without a Conway’s Irish Ale, or Christmas in CLE without the iconic Christmas Ale. And as long as the folks at Great Lakes continue to preserve the neighborhood while making great beer, we’ll never need to. You can get Great Lakes anywhere, but the Ohio City brewpub is worth a visit for the

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Photo by Emanuel Wallace

pub exclusives and the illuminating tours of the brewery. MUST SHOP

Under the open, Byzantine tile roof of the West Side Market, shoppers can ﬁnd food from Greece, Cambodia, the Middle East, and a whole host of Eastern European nations. The smell of cured meats and oils and cakes mingle in the air. Produce vendors shout out deals. Take out the parking and a visit to West Side Market is pure Cleveland food magic. The Market can trace its roots back to 1840, when former Ohio City mayors Josiah Barber and Richard Lord donated land to the city on the condition that the site always host a public market. The Pearl Street Market, named for the street that would later become West 25th, served the neighborhood, in particular the immigrant population, for 75 years. When the population grew too large for the market to adequately serve, construction began on a larger site across the street. Architectural ﬁrm Hubbell and Benes, perhaps best known for designing the Cleveland Museum of Art, helmed the project. In 2012, the Market celebrated its 100th anniversary, and shows no signs of slowing down.

Great Lakes Brewing Company

Victorian mansion at the corner of Franklin and West 44th actually haunted? Probably not. The original owner of Franklin Castle did experience a spate of family deaths, but some savvy PR probably accounts for most of the ghost sightings and stories. Should this deter you from trying to glimpse a spook in one of the windows? Absolutely not. EAT

MUST ATTEND

The belief of the Brews and Prose reading series is captured in its motto: “Literature is better with beer.” Hosted in the bottom floor of Market Garden Brewery the first Tuesday of every month, Brews and Prose strives to make poetry and fiction more accessible by pairing it with Market Garden’s craft brews. Readers have included novelists, poets, and memoirists both national and local, like Akron essayist David Giffels and Tampa author Alissa Nutting. Buying a book will get you a bookmark and a free beer, which may be, as series founder Dave Lucas often says, the best deal in town. SEE

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Cleveland has been blessed with a proliferation of artisanal ice cream shops, but Mason’s Creamery sets itself apart with its creative ﬂavors. Not only will customers ﬁnd ice creams like Sweet Potato Pie, Vietnamese Coffee and Vegan Vanilla with Sweet Sriracha Sauce, if they’re lucky, they can partake in one of the monthly ramen pop-ups. EAT

Before Ohio City became a foodie haven, Nate’s Deli was serving the best Middle Eastern food in the city. A small, family-owned restaurant, Nate’s is the “everybody knows your name” kind of establishment it’s hard to believe still exists. The tabouli and fattoosh salads are always made fresh, and it’s one of the only places in the city

where customers can order a plate of raw kibbee. VISIT

There’s a welcoming smell on entering Forest City Shuffleboard: sawdust mixed with fried food. It’s a charmingly retro establishment offering indoor and outdoor shuffleboard courts and tables. It’s friendly to all ages, and even if you don’t care for playing shuffleboard, there’s plenty of craft beer to choose from. DO

In an increasingly digitized culture, there is comfort to be found in the physicality of board games. That could be why Tabletop Board Game Cafe is so darn fun. With a warm, inviting atmosphere and a library of nearly 1,000 board games to choose from, Tabletop is a place to enjoy a childhood favorite or learn a completely new one. Some nice bites and beers will sustain you, and $5 will let you play all day. EAT

In 2014, executive chef Michael Nowak moved The Black Pig from the main drag on West 25th to a smaller, more intimate

location at 28th and Bridge. The move has paid off in spades: Nowak now quietly runs one of the best food and bar programs in the city. The food is seasonal, European-inﬂuenced, and places a heavy emphasis, of course, on pork. DRINK

Nearly ﬁve years since its opening, Porco Lounge & Tiki Room continues to bring its tiki vibes to Cleveland. It has won national awards for its drinks, and its recognition has helped raise the visibility of Cleveland’s formidable cocktail scene. The secret to its success? The atmosphere is fun, the decor is on point, and the drinks will knock you off your barstool. SEE

When you get a plate of veggies at The Flying Fig, chances are they were plucked from the ground just down the street that very day. Just behind the West Side Market, Ohio City Farm is one of the largest contiguous urban farms in the U.S. They provide grains for special Great Lakes beers, and their partnership with the Refugee Response provides a sustainable living for dozens of local families.

Â· GOOD SPIRITS Â· GOOD FOOD Â·

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Cleveland Museum of Art Cleveland Museum of Art Performing Arts Series Performing Arts Series Experience the ﬁnest in performing arts.

Third Coast Percussion: Paddle to the Sea The group presents a new score for the ﬁlm based on the classic children’s book, including works by Philip Glass and Jacob Druckman. Sunday, February 11, 2:00 p.m.

Special family & kids pricing

Oberlin Contemporary Music Ensemble Premiering chamber works by Henrik Hellstenius, Xue Ju, and Kaija Saariaho, featuring special guest Norwegian violinist Peter Herresthal.

Wu Man with Huayin Shadow Puppet Band Pipa virtuoso Wu Man joins the brilliant Huayin Shadow Puppet Band for an evening of Chinese old-tune traditional music with shadow puppetry.

Sunday, March 4, 2:00 p.m.

Wednesday, March 21, 7:30 p.m.

Tickets and more info at ClevelandArt.org/performingarts. ClevelandArt.org

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