EuroBerge Issue 10

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Hitting the Baja Trail Putting Baby to Rest Semis Hauling Minis


Photo by:Alex Martinez Camera: Canon Rebel XS Aperture: f/5.6 Shutter Speed: 1/30 sec Focal length: 20mm ISO: 200


Staff Richard Melick Editor in Chief Erik Melander Photography Editor Aaron Crooks Design Editor Mike Selander Photographer Alex Martinez Photographer Brendan McDonald Detailer Ryan Schnell Contributing Writer Ian Cole Contributing Writer Kellin Goldsmith Business Managment Roland Haas Forum Marketing Contributers Jeremy Nelson Yalla Yalla


Contents Winter 2011 :: Issue 10

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Finally | FIAT 500 6

the editor’s words

Automobile Transportation 10 semis hauling minis


Yalla Yalla 16

a mini approach to Colorado

Hitting the Baja Trail 24

awd buggie adventure

Pro Winter Detailing 33

cleaning up after CDOT

Flash to Pass 38

expert driving etiquette

Waiting for Spring 44

racers in hibernation

Know Your Rights 50

all about the copyright

Photo by: Mike Selander Camera: Nikon D200 Aperture: f/2.8 Shutter Speed: 2sec Focal length: 24mm ISO: 100


W

elcome back Fiat. We have missed you and your little cars quite a bit. Yes, I know it will be a while until we actually see you in show rooms, with March being the newest announced release month. But, until then, I will continue to play with the configuration, building a whole slew of varied setups and designs. Granted, I have not seen one of these cars in person, and will attempt to keep my excitement to a minimum, but the thought of these little cars hitting the American pavement really hits the right tone for our evolving market. I am glad to see that we as a country are beginning to accept these smaller cars as a legit part of the market and not just a fad for ‘hot little hatches’ as we have seen in the past, and that with this transition, the European designed little cars are finally being sought here in the states. So what am I most excited about? Honestly, the prospect of putting some bags in the back and going on a road trip across the states in a little Italian beauty like this, hitting up all the major attractions in this itty-bitty car. Yes, this is a little bit of a lofty goal of mine, and while it was not originally set up specifically for this car. So why do I want to take this new little hatch on a road trip? Well, I cannot think of a better vehicle to explore the country than what is becoming the future of motoring. Maybe it is out of respect for Fiat and their buying of Chrysler in a time of need, or the fact that the company needed no modification of its business plan to meet the new US standards of fuel economy. Or maybe it is the fact that this economical little Italian hatch is going to become the forerunner of the new small car revolution, just as the Volkswagen GTI and Honda CRX did decades ago. This little car is not only showing other manufacturers that safety does not mean bigger cars, but is showing that driving can be fun again. Yes, this is not the most glamorous of little cars, and probably is not the best performing when compared to the MINI Cooper S, but it will make its place on the American roads. This lack of performance should also be rectified with the introduction of the Albrath in the coming year. Gone is the whole idea that with each new safety feature, a car must get bigger, which we have all seen in everything from the Audi A4 to the Toyota Camry, and now we see that we can have safety in a package that has barely changed since its original version. So here we go, and while it will be a few months until we will see if this is even possible, I will continue to make some plans for this little hatch, and hopefully it will arrive sooner than later.

Richard Melick Editor in Chief

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Photo by: Erik Melander Camera: Canon Eos 40D Aperture: f/4.0 Shutter Speed: 1/15sec Focal length: 113mm ISO: 640

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MINI

Auto Transp

AUTO T

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port

TRANS.

Photos & article by Erik Melander In my recent dealings with an out-of-state vehicle purchase, it brought headaches in trying to get the new toy home in one piece. Through the experience of learning the auto-transport business, there were a lot of hidden clauses that were not fully disclosed, and to clear up the muck from the every expanding industry, the following provides details on what to expect and what to look for when moving your prized possession. In the industry of automotive transportation there are two major categories: brokers and carriers, the differences of which are explained to bestow detail on how the process is operated. Brokers are representatives that post to the National Transportation Board that public truck drivers communicate several different load-types, and have the availability to pick-andchoose their cargo accordingly. The brokers post the value of the load, which signifies the cash-on delivery required payment to the driver; it is based on distance traveling and weight of vehicle being carried. Drivers then can pick their loads accordingly to their choice of route, value, pick-up and drop-off locations. Once a driver agrees to the broker’s shipment, the broker is informed and then the vehicle owner is notified of being claimed by a driver. The brokers add on a certain percentage or flat rate commission on top of the delivery cost since they are the communicating middle-man between the owner and the driver. Carriers are a private company that owns their own rigs and equipment, eliminating the use of a broker and the use of the National Transportation Board. Truck and rig-equipment are typically owned by the driver and traveling family, but report earnings to the company versus under-the-table cash-in-hand transactions. Depending on size of the carrier, scheduling can have a slight waiting list depending on truck-locations, routes and cargo loads. Pricing compared to a broker and independent driver is typically higher, however service is usually exceptional since the drivers work directly to a company name and logo that takes pride in caring for automotive investments and high-end clientele. With a carrier, you’re in direct contact with the company’s dispatch and sales and able to negotiate a price limit and smaller pick-up and drop-off window. Regardless of broker or carrier, there are a few legal items to address and research before picking an auto-transport company to use. Check for current licenses to carry vehicles both on class-loading by the federal government and state-to-state border crossing. Remember drivers are responsible for weight limit fees and fines; not the vehicle owner. Verify that the transport isn’t running up a tab to be pushed off and paid by the owner. Bonded drivers and companies mean that they have been thoroughly investigated and heavily background checked by a bonding company to show they are in-standing in the industry to touch and transport high-dollar items with little or no complaints or claims. Lastly is insurance; simple, yes, but the fine lines of where their coverage ends and yours should begin lie in a large gray area. winter 2011

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s r e t in o p g Cost Savin

rrier have If the driver / ca - rt or local loadan in-town hub, po e vehicle there; ing yard, bring th another clients’ or meet them at stop if convenient sportation Set-up the tran - veral weeks beearly, at least se l possible fore hand if at al s, be flexIf schedule allow - -up and drop-off ible on the pick s increase if you dates; price rate or drop-off guarneed a pick-up c day(s) anteed on specifi

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car, is it Be true to the - er where coverjust a daily driv be extensive, or age isn’t need to car handling? does it need show


Know the terms and situations if a dent occurred from human interaction, a scratch from outside environmental factors, or if heaven forbid a total loss occurs. Numbers are thrown around on insured value, but pay attention to what that includes for your specific vehicle, not the total value of the drivers entire cargo. Do the leg-work to pick the company and driver of choice that fits specific needs, and don’t be afraid to ask the tough questions to get the answers you need. Coinciding with company choice, transport type is the next decision; as in whether and open or enclosed trailer will be used. Open units are just how they sound, where the trailer is an integrated wheel rail system and there are no sides or covers over the loaded vehicles. Enclosed trailers are fully encased on all sides to protect vehicles from the elements like inclement weather, road-grime and debris. Open trailers are the most common and less expensive option, however the flip-side is the risk of weather factors and what’s on the road. Knowing the route the transport company will take during the shipping season should determine the choice of trailer. Many high-end vehicles have been shipped in open transports to and from sunny regions of the United States without a ding or paint scratch. But there have been documented cases of heavy weather damage onto vehicles that have fought against mother-nature; those owners have definitely kicked themselves for not choosing an enclosed trailer. Pick the transport type accordingly based on route traveled, weather season and vehicle worth. After doing all tis research, the final step is to contact the transport company of choice and coordinate the dates and locations of pick-up and drop-off for the vehicle. Many of the companies prefer setting up a transport two week prior to such. Reason being, they are trying to coordinate a full-load and make it cost-effective to the end consumer. However since the truck drivers are coordinating several vehicles, standard operating window of a pick-up can be at least 2-3 days, and can be as long as a week. Drivers can expedite the pick-up or decrease the window time of pick-up opportunity but usually a higher charge ensues. This can be a big deal breaker for the end consumer especially if the vehicle owner’s schedule is crunched for time and need to be elsewhere in a reasonable manner. So with the rig-type is picked, the window of pick-up is given, …now what? Easy, hurry up and wait. Typically, the driver that will come claim your vehicle for transport will be there as soon as possible, but many factors come into play with showing up. Road conditions, load time of other customers’ vehicles, and traffic all play into whether the trailer-rig will be on the early side of your window versus the latter. Remember to be patient but ready when the driver calls you to inform he’ll be at your doorstep at a certain time. It’s highly recommended by the industry, that if all possible, the owner should supervise and watch the vehicle being loaded. Attention to specific details may be only known by the owner, and not regarded for by other handlers. Before the driver takes temporary possession, the vehicle is inspected by the pick-up contact and the driver to document current condition. Upon inspection completion, the driver places the vehicle on the trailer-rig and properly secured. For delivery, the same procedure is reverse; vehicle is unloaded and the drop-off contact and driver complete another inspection comparing it to the signed bill of lading documents as filled out by the pick-up contact. Payment at time is usually required to the driver at the time of delivery in the form of certified funds, unless other arrangements have been made with the transport company. When shipping of your personal vehicle may be dictated by job relocation or some other life-changing event outside of your control, scheduling can be pinned down for when you need the vehicle. However if you can avoid the typical move dates during the spring and fall season of when the “winter bird” owners shift from their summer home to winter home, that will alleviate problems with lack of availability, pricing and options of drop-off. Mid-April through the first part of May, and late-September into middle of October are some of the heaviest times when owners want their hot-rod relocated. winter 2011

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Photo by: Erik Melander Camera: Canon EOS 40D Aperture: f/5.0 Shutter Speed: 1/15sec Focal length: 35mm ISO: 400


YALLA YALLA ‘10

Photos by Mike Selan Written by Jeremy N

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nder Nelson

Y

alla Yalla, the name brings to mind strong feelings in anyone who has been to one before. Not always pleasant ones at that, often fear, horror, and revulsion spring to mind. For those that haven’t been, the question is always, “just WHAT is Yalla Yalla??? “. Well, as is so often the response, the fun is in finding out. After attending the event for the first time last year, and having the distinction of being the only people to get lost, my devious mind immediately started churning on new ideas for this year’s Yalla Yalla.

A

long with the intent to confuse, confound, and in general sow a sense of wonderment, I wanted to take out the paperwork mountain of mass quizzes and add a physical and mental element that couldn’t be easily figured out simply by utilizing one’s smart phone. In this regard we started brainstorming “Minute to Win It” type games, or things that could be transformed into challenges that would face our attendees with only having 60 seconds from start to finish. Along the way, a massive list of inspiring and challenging games were either reproduced, or modified, some were discarded, and in the end we had I believe seven or eight games.


. . . g n i g Challen . . . g n i d n Confou o d a r o l o C

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ace the Cookie, from MTWI fame, was the funniest to watch, I tried to get Chuck to do it, but he refused, perhaps fear of blackmail photos was his crutch. Yet, everyone had a good time, much like a group of school children around a recess fight, laughing, prodding, and cajoling each new participant in the challenge. The overall theme this year was “Food”, and the minimal quizzes we did were focused around that, as well as the CD which featured not one, but two songs by my arch nemesis. We provided a fully catered meal at the end of the day from Famous Dave’s BBQ, at a minimal cost to those that attended to help defray the damage to the clubs coffers. A veritable slew of companies in the food and beverage industry were contacted, and a small handful responded. Our sponsor’s however came through huge for the club.

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he sponsor’s for the eighth iteration of Yalla Yalla were Old Chicago, Prima Car Care, Garbanzo’s Mediterranean Grill, Coors, Mini of Loveland, Advance Auto Parts, Tokyo Joes, Motoringshirts, Winter Park, Rallye Coach Works, Xing Tea, Original Wraps, Jaguar Denver, combining for nearly $2500 in prizes for the 22 cars that participated in winter 2011

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this year’s event. Every single car, if not person, walked away with a prize. On top of that, each car was given a free gift certificate for an area restaurant, making everyone a winner before the day even began.

F

inally for all their help and support in organizing this year’s bash, a profound and heartfelt expression of gratitude to Chuck Maybee, Joseph and Cristina Konrad, Whitlow Wong, Robert Montoya, Stephanie Lemcke, Kim Stone, Teena Craighill, Don Suiter, and Rick Gonzales.

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Photo by: Erik Melander Camera: Canon EOS 40D Aperture: f/2.8 Shutter Speed: 1/30sec Focal length: 20mm ISO: 100


Photos and Article by Ryan Schnell

The plane tickets are booked, hotel reservations are finalized and your significant other just finished buying the last of the numerous “must haves� before you depart for your long awaited beach vacation. For months you have saved, planned, organized and daydreamed about sitting on the beach while sipping your favorite ice-cold cocktail. For car guys, you leave your beloved toys sitting alone in the garage, or even worse, airport parking lots, as you temporarily leave your automotive passion behind. I mean, what automotive fun could you possibly have on a beach vacation in Mexico? Reading the latest copy of Autoweek is the closest you will come to burning rubber while sitting by the pool. No track days, no F1 on early Sunday morning TV, no weekend wrenching sessions in the garage and certainly no spirited driving. Right? Wrong. Enter Wide Open Excursions. Wide Open Excursions, based in Irvine, California, has been providing one of the most unique and challenging adventure tours since 1997. They offer 1, 3 and 7-day


tours, out of Nevada, Baja North or Baja South. The tours give you the rare chance to experience high performance, off-road driving in an authentic Baja 1000 racecar. The vision of company founder and off-road racer Todd Clement was to let the world in on what he experienced while racing in the legendary Baja 1000. How cool is that? My first exposure to offroad racing was when my par-


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ents gathered up the family for a vacation to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Walking Main Street in downtown Cabo, I’d stop to admire a shiny, mysterious buggy that was parked cubside. I would look at my Dad and curiously ask why this racecar looked so different from the ones I was accustomed to seeing at Indy or Pikes Peak. He said, “It looks different because it’s built for the desert”. Inevitably, my second question was “can I drive it?” After some years past, I finally fetched a yes to my childhood question. My wife and I ventured south of the boarder for a week to Cabo San Lucas and arranged a one-day Wide Open tour called “Baja South”. We arrived in the morning at the Wide Open offices and we were quickly introduced to our guides for the day, Andrea & David, and settled in for an introductory video. After the video, we loaded

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up and headed twenty minutes outside of town to Wide Open’s beachside Motorsport Ranch. Grinning from ear to ear, I stepped out and was greeted by the sight of three mean Baja racecars parked side by side with the dark blue Pacific Ocean in the backdrop. I was stunned at the machinery and scenery that stood before me. Our lead guide, Andrea, passed out balaclava’s and helmets before he sat us down for a safety briefing. The “break it, you buy it” speech was effective and got me thinking about what kind

of obstacles I could potentially encounter while I was flat out in fourth gear – cows, horses, ranchers and the occasional dirtbiker were all possible to graze our path. After selecting our car we loaded up, snapped a few pictures and belted ourselves into the car. My co-driver was on photo, video and radio duty for the day. We hooked up our nifty air-ventilation systems into our helmets and plugged in the intercom – we were ready. First gear engaged, eased off the clutch and we were off. Immediately, I could feel the Fox Racing suspension soaking up the terrain with ease. I went up and down the gearbox as we tore through sections of open road. The rear mounted, Subaru flat four provided great low end torque, but I couldn’t resist winding it up to redline. The first, lush green mountain climb was a riot. Flicking the car corner to corner and hearing that flat four singing its raspy melody was intoxicating. My wife shrieked and I smiled every time the car started to drift sideways. We were driving on roads that were made famous by the legendary Tecate SCORE Baja 1000. I was captivated by the fact that I was driving a real-deal, Baja 1000 racecar on the very same roads that have been attacked by leg-


ends such as Parnelli Jones, Ivan Stewart, and Larry Ragland. My appreciation for the untamed Baja Peninsula grew deeper and deeper after seeing each breathtaking view over the steering wheel. Our lunchtime destination was the sleepy, seaside village of Todos Santos, but this was one lunch I didn’t mind being late for. We pulled into Todos Santos and discovered that we were in for another treat. Wide Open strives to provide great hospitality and delivered with a great lunch at the Eagles’ favorite accommodations – The Hotel California. Smoked Marlin quesadillas and lamb burgers with caramelized onions satisfied our adrenaline-induced appetite. After a brief tour of the hotel lobby and gift shop we began our return trip to Cabo. Within minutes of departing Todos Santos we were back attacking the Baja. My wife was expertly calling out the hazards ahead as she listened to the lead car call them out. We hit a fast section of road and I pointed my right foot to the floor. Suddenly, she yells “Slow down, horses!” I locked the brakes up for a good twenty feet before narrowly avoiding a herd of horses that decided to play chicken at the last minute. Car still in one piece? Check. We set off again after catching our 30

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on booking For more information pen Excura tour contact Wide O baja.com sions at www.wideopen . or call 1-949-635-2292

breath and began to traverse a few more switchbacks. One of the most amazing parts of the day was witnessing the close relationships that our guides had developed with local farmers and their families. The group was greeted by bright smiles and waves as our lead tour guide stopped to pass out candy to the local farmers children that had heard us coming from miles away. In short, Wide Open offers one amazing experience. You get to see and taste a side of the Baja that I never knew existed. Everything from the cars you get to drive to the sights you get to see is awesome. My wife and I walked away knowing that we had just experienced an amazing adventure and immediately started planning the next trip. The next time I check my bag at the airport, I no longer have to check my automotive passion along with it.


Photo by: Mike Selander Camera: NIKON D200 Aperture: f/5.0 Shutter Speed: 1/13sec Focal length: 50mm ISO: 100


The winter time is the hardest season on a car for two reasons. First, the conditions; snow, ice, and freezing rain can wreak havoc on a cars paint and plastics. Second, the neglect; more often than not, people neglect their cars during the winter due to the pains of cleaning in cold temperatures. Barring constructing your own detailing wonderlands, the best way to keep your car in top shape come spring time requires a few ounces of prevention now. By protecting your cars paint, door jambs, wheels and plastics, you will be able to worry a bit less about the punch mother nature and CDOT pack. Also, a good coat of protection means when the warmth does come getting your car looking in tip-top shape will be considerably easier. Let’s start where we left last time with a freshly clay barred car (see issue 9 for full details). Your cars paint is perfectly clean, free of the dirt removed in washing and the paint contaminants picked up by the clay. Leaving your car after claying is like leaving it nude; there is literally nothing between the clear-coat and the atmosphere.

Article and Photography by Brendan Mcdonald

The door jamb is the first thing you see when opening your car door; clean it and protect it and your car will seem much more clean. Dust and exhaust particles settle on the rear of the car, and less attention in the winter time. Protect the paint and plastics near the trunk when prepping the car for winter.

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A good coat of wax or sealant is vital to protect your paint from the elements. Before applying wax, wipe-down each panel with a 1:1 mix of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. This insures there isn’t any residue from our clay lubricant or oils on the paint. A perfectly clean panel means a perfect bond between wax and paint, and longer lasting protection. Apply a small amount of wax using a microfiber or foam applicator. Bear in mind you are letting this dry on the car, then buffing it off; don’t overdo it. Many waxes are best spread thin, and it is a waste of product and time if you have to buff off a thick layer of wax. Move panel by panel, starting at the roof to avoid bumping into panels you’ve just worked on. Perform a swipe test to see when the wax is ready to be removed: swipe a bare finger across the paint. If the wax smears, it’s not ready. When it doesn’t smear, the wax has dried and it’s time to remove any excess using a microfiber towel. Depending on the wax, work environment, and temperature, this time could be a matter of minutes to an hour and a half. Now that the majority of the car’s paint is protected, it is time to focus on the smaller parts. Recalling the cleaning and detailing engine bay article in issue 8 (July 2010 release), we can protect the engine’s plastic and rubber components. Using a protectant like 303 Aerospace Protectant, wipe-down as much of the engine bay as you can. 303 is an incredible 34

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Door sills require protection not just on the plastic (or carbon) plate, but on the rubber seals which surround the door. Grime likes to build up here, leading to cracking and discoloration.


A cleaned and protected MINI engine bay; spring cleaning will be a breeze.

Protect all aspects of the engine bay, paying close attention to plastic and rubber seals and hoses. Any carbon fiber or painted surfaces should be protected with a high quality wax/sealant.

product and will noticeably seal your plastics, causing them to bead water just like your paint. Not only is that protecting your engine bay, but it makes cleanup in the spring a lot easier. Use 303 or your protectant of choice to prepare all of your cars exterior plastics as well. Focus on the areas below your windshield, where ice is likely to buildup, as well as any plastic around wheels and in the trunk area. Door jambs typically get ignored in the winter season. By waxing your door jambs just like your exterior, you can protect the part of the car most often ignored. I typically pay special attention to the jambs in the winter because that’s where dirt and de-icing chemicals build-up and become trapped. Plastics in the door jambs should receive the same treatment as the engine bay and exterior plastics. Protecting your wheels is the last step to prepping for winter time. Wheels take a beating and need to be protected from road chemicals and brake dust. I like using a sturdy, wheel-specific wax like Wheel Armor by Denver company Prima Car Care, or Collinite no 845. Wax will also make cleanup later a breeze, but expect to reapply often; heat and brake cleaners often affect the durability of any wheel wax. winter 2011

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Photo by: Aaron Crooks Camera: Canon EOS 20D Aperture: f/4.5 Shutter Speed: 1/160sec Focal length: 50mm ISO: 100

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Flash to Pass

Article and Photos by Erik Melander

Raise your hand if you’ve been in the situation where your left-lane tempo doesn’t match the car in front of you. Now, raise your hand if the driver ahead of you is oblivious that you’re creeping on his tail. Familiar situation is it not? Unfortunately it is highly repetitive on the narrows of I-25 and I-70 outside the city limits of Denver. The main arteries in Colorado that feed a high majority of traffic up, down and through the Front Range are becoming clogged with left-lane pacers. A typical “pacer” is easily identified as a driver that has absolutely no acknowledgement that they are blocking normal flow of traffic behind themselves. Virtually all of us have been the cause or the victim of such, so there is no winner to pointing fingers of who’s at fault. However, the proactive antidote to the pacing zombies is as easy as a courtesy flash with the headlights. Headlight usage in the colonies has been dwindled down to none other than to simply illuminate the road a driver is heading during night. It’s an obvious tool; lighting a clear path is necessary. There would be no other reason for them if the sun never set, right? Yet the headlights, and more directly, the high-beams are bright communication instruments for drivers that are not actively watching their rear view mirror. When an approaching vehicle comes to a slower vehicle in the passing lane (US’s lefthand lane), the upcoming driver can toggle the high-beams to signal his position and intent. This signal is recognized as a polite request to have the slower vehicle move to the driving lane allowing the faster vehicle to safely pass without being held up. The acceptance of the ‘flash-to-pass’ understanding application is broadening to motorists throughout the United States. In several countries outside the US, specific laws express a driving lane and passing lane, where the passing lane is forbidden to loaf in. More states are adopting the traffic law of Rechtsfahren (which means ‘drive right’ in English) from countries like Germany. Typically the ruling and consequence is stricter across the Atlantic pond, where on the Autobahn, Rechtsfahren favors the approaching vehicle and forces the lead vehicle to move the hell-outta-the-way in fear of being stopped and ticketed. Colorado in particular has enforced passing-lane pacers holding up traffic and handed drivers a moderate fine ($41.20 penalty, plus 3 points reduced from license) for such an infraction. Known as the “Left Lane Law” [42-4-1013 (1)], it took into effect dating back to July of 2004 and it states: “a person shall not drive a motor vehicle in the passing lane of a highway if the speed limit is sixty-five miles per hour (65mph) or more unless such person is passing other motor vehicles that are in a non-passing lane…” Can that same approach of yield to driver behind you be applied to the US highway transit 38 euroberge


f

“...on the Autobahn, Rechtsfahren forces the lead vehicle to

move the hell-outta-the-way in fear of being stopped and ticketed.�

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system? No doubt; the Left Lane Law for Colorado overturns the old-fashioned idea of the car ahead of you has the right-of-way. As a disclaimer to the reading audience, using the flash-to-pass technique may not be appropriate for all drivers. Bear in mind that some may assume the action as a threatening re-

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mark and may retaliate. Pay attention to other driver’s characteristics and use good judgment to whether or not to flash headlights. Responsibility of being an attentive and humble motorist lies within us all. There are some simple give-and-take criteria that are required by both the lead driver and the following driver. The approaching vehicle may trigger a flash-to-pass request several hundred yards away to allow lead driver time to react and properly move. Avoid flashing headlights when in close proximity to the upcoming vehicle. Give adequate room for safe braking and don’t tailgate in effort to push the leading vehicle; that can cause anxiousness for the driver. Re-

main patient and calm letting the lead vehicle to clear traffic and correctly move over. When the pass is wave, don’t forget to thank your fellow driver to clear the passing lane. When you find yourself as the lead driver in the passing lane, avoid lingering or pacing the same speed as the driving lane. This is one of main causes for traffic clusters which increase the risks of multi-car accidents. Additionally, local officers are paying more attention to left-lane abuse which can result in a traffic violation ticket and fine. When signaled by a flash from a behind motorist, quickly and safely clear slower vehicles in the driving lane and merge over to allow faster traffic to pass. Do not try to be a keeper or enforcer of speed limit laws – many don’t know what prerogative or urgency the fellow driver behind you has. If there are dangerous situations where vehicles appear reckless in manner, dial *CSP (non-emergency dispatch line for Colorado State Police) and report them. Allow

Flash to Pass karma and good driving practices do the rest. Extend that practice to reduction of negative connotation hand-gestures if there’s someone that just needs to get by you. A simple flash-to-pass is a courteous way to letting a driver know you are gently wanting around slower traffic. Allowing faster traffic to move pass does permit normal traffic patterns to operate smooth on the highway. It reduces the congestion around naturally slower vehicles, and reduces the risk of multicar accidents created by groupings. Don’t be offended getting flashed, it ultimately makes for a brisk clogfree commute that makes happy drivers during journey to their destination.

EriksNotes | Driving Etiquette Following Vehicle Lead Vehicle •Give a fair warning flash several hundred yards away •Adequate room between vehicles – do not tailgate in order to “push” the lead vehicle •Be patient – lead vehicle does has right of way

•Avoid lingering in the left-lane; it is designed for passing •If you are flashed, do not brake check the person behind you •Quickly and safely move out of traffic’s way

Benefits •happy drivers •allow traffic to operate smoothly •lessen traffic congestion around naturally slower vehicles •less multi-car accidents due to reduced size of vehicle packs


Photo by: Brendan Mcdonald | Camera: Canon EOS REBEL t1i | Aperture: f/5.0 | Shutter Speed: 1/8sec | Focal length: 39mm | ISO: 1600


Photo by: Brendan Mcdonald | Camera: Canon EOS REBEL t1i | Aperture: f/1.8 | Shutter Speed: 1/125sec | Focal length: 50mm | ISO: 400


Waiting g n i r p S For Written by Ian Cole er Photos by Erik Meland

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As the race season winds down, for those of us in less temperate climes, the need to store a racecar or dedicated track car becomes apparent. Storing these specific duty types of vehicles requires a bit more effort than just parking it on the side of the house and throwing a tarp over it, even if that is the end state. Freezing temperatures can damage tires, hoses and belts, and can ultimately destroy an engine. Taking some simple steps can mitigate these issues and

make the race to the start of the next season much easier. Furthermore, performing these steps provide for the opportunity to conduct a thorough inspection of the car and develop a plan for off-season changes and repairs. In the development of this plan, including estimations of time will help the owner determine which changes and repairs can be made in the off season. First Steps – All Cars The very first step in preparing any car for storage should be a good wash. This needs to be a very thorough wash, not just a run through the automatic car wash. A high-pressure

wand wash, where the water can be directed into tight and hidden areas, is vital. A thorough wash will remove captured caustic fluids and other materials (brake dust), as well as remove grime that can contain moisture. Moisture held against metal parts promotes oxidation and rust, which can lead to premature failure of parts, which will undoubtedly occur at the most inopportune time. The next consideration is a tuneup. While this step is not vital, changing the oil should be a consideration. Trapped contaminants (water) in the oil left over the winter can lead to corrosion within the engine block and other systems, and can lessen the lifespan of the powertrain. Other tune-up activities, like changing the spark plugs and air filter, can be postponed until later in the off-season, when the preparations for the start of the season begin, however doing these activities now will not hurt. The final activity in preparing for winter storage for all cars is a full inspection. Inspect all wiring for cracking insulation and developing corrosion at mounting and connection points. Check all belts for missing teeth, cracks, and fraying edges. Inspect hoses for tears, cracks, seeping or leaks. In addition, check hose clamps for tightness and hose connections for corrosion that may lead to leaks. While finding an issue here, immediate repair may not be necessary. Annotate any found issues on the off-season change/repair plan. Temperature Controlled Storage Preparation winter 2011

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Warmer climes or temperaturecontrolled storage requires less preparation than racecars that will be stored in sub-freezing temperatures. Nonetheless, some preparation will extend the life of vital components, minimize costs, and makes preparation for the start of the upcoming season easier. These steps should be taken after full wash and visual inspection has been completed and the car is physically in the position where it is to be stored for the off-season. First, support the car on jack stands. The jack stands should be placed on pinch welds, frame rails, or other non-moving components as approved by the vehicle manufacturer. Ideally, the suspension should be allowed to droop, decompressing springs and shocks. This will also remove pressure from the tires, keeping them from deforming during storage. As the car is lifted into the air, watch for overextension of brake lines, wiring for wheel speed sensors, and other components, which can hang up on a bolt head and break due to overextension. Once the car is in the air, use a large expanse of cardboard, like a refrigerator box, placed underneath the car to catch any drips or leaks. This can provide guidance for any needed repairs. Once the car is in the air, spin the wheels. While spinning, check the wheels for roundness, listen for interference rubbing, and listen for bearing wear. Bearing wear can also be checked, along with tie rod play, by testing for wheel play. Grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock, wiggle the wheel back and forth. Any play can indicate a failing bearing. Grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock and wiggling can indicate a failing tie rod. Finally, having the tires off the ground makes it easier to check for damage and uneven wear. Finally, disconnect the battery. A word of caution here: some ECUs require the use of a code to reactivate the 46 euroberge

system following an extended disconnect. Confirm the requirements and availability of necessary tools or equipment before proceeding with this step. If the car is equipped with a battery cutoff switch, using this is sufficient for this step. Otherwise, disconnect the battery (negative first), then clean any corrosion from the battery terminals and connectors. Once disconnected, attach a battery tender or trickle charger – most have some sort of maintenance mode – following battery manufacturer recommendations (e.g. open vent caps). Once these steps have been


completed for cars being stored in temperature controlled storage, or locations that will not experience sub-freezing temperatures, the storage preparation is complete. Throw a tarp or car cover on and head for your favorite beverage. If, on the other hand, the car will be stored where temperatures will dip below freezing, additional steps are required. Sub-Freezing Storage Preparation Storage in sub-freezing requires special considerations for fluids used in track-only vehicles. In addition to the

above activities, many tracks do not allow the use of glycol-based coolant, so many racers use straight water or wetting agents like WaterWetter™ in their cooling system. WaterWetter™ will provide no greater freezing protection than water itself. Either completely drain the system, to include draining the block, or switch to a standard coolant that complies with your system’s requirements. If you plan to start the car periodically, consider switching to light-weight oil for the winter. Check oil weight temperature ranges and use an oil weight appropriate to the expected winter 2011

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temperatures. Finally, if any other systems use fluid that has high water content, such as water in the windshield washer system, drain the system. Expanding water in lines will cause burst line failures. Freezing can do a lot of damage to the battery, regardless of the battery type. To avoid having to purchase a new battery every year, remove the battery from the car and relocate to a warmer location. The location needs to be well ventilated, and do not place the battery directly on concrete. As with above, use a battery tender to maintain the life of the battery. Cold can significantly affect tire longevity as well. To protect tires, remove wheels (do not necessarily need to dismount the tires) and store in tire bags (available from local independent and chain tire retailers). Store bagged tires in a warm, dry, and dark location, stacked on their side. Avoid storage near electric motors. Some tire manufacturers recommend removing the air from the tires during long storage periods. Do not use any chemical treatments as they can damage the rubber compounds. Taking a little time to properly store your vehicle, taking into consideration the type of storage to be used, will ultimately save a lot of time at the start of the next season, and can reduce financial impacts because of failed components. Working through the steps above will also provide an opportunity to develop a comprehensive plan of attack for off-season repairs and setup changes, and can lead to being ahead of the game for the first event of the next season.


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Basics of the Š

Article and Photos by Mike Selander

Knowing Your Rights


PHOTO If you’ve ever been cruising the Internet or looking through a magazine and find that one of your photos has been stolen, you know it’s not a fun experience. You might not know who it is that stole your photo, when it happened, or even how to get a hold of them, but your property has been stolen. It’s extremely important to know how to protect them from thieves and ignoramuses who grab photos like online candy. Copyright and fair use law can be particularly muddled, but knowing how to keep your work safe will drive up its value and could mean the difference between a sale and a site view. First off, if you take a photograph, that is: click the shutter on a photographic instrument with some composition, you own that photo. With the exception of taking a photo of an existing photo or being contractually “on the clock”, you own the full copyright of that image and all details thus entailed. A copyright is automatically given to the image as soon as the shutter is released. It may be that no one but you knows of it, but it exists and full protection is offered. If you wish, you may register it with the US Copyright Office but it is not necessary unless published. A photograph is not a physical good that can be held or touched, but it is personal property just the same as your cell phone or vehicle. It has monetary value, just as the written word and films do. “A work is “created” when it is fixed in a copy or phonorecord for the first time; where a work is prepared over a period of time, the portion of it that has been fixed at any particular time constitutes the work as of that time, and where the work has been prepared in different versions, each version constitutes a separate work.” Circular 92 – U.S. Copyright Law I cannot nail this into your head enough. If you take a photo of someone’s particular vehicle, you own the full 100% right to produce, reproduce, print, publish, or otherwise do with it as you wish. If you take a photo of someone’s home (in public view unless otherwise prohibited by law) you own every single right associated with that copyright, they own nothing. Photographing people however winter 2011

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is an touchy subject and will not be covered for the purposes of this article; a good general rule of thumb is to keep in mind that you are not allowed to invade privacy or embarrass a typical person. Copyright law prevents anyone from copying, retransmitting, translation, or likeness resembles your images without your express permission, be it digitally, print, video, etc. This includes printing, downloading, claiming as their own, and any other use without you knowledge and permission. You have the right to seek reasonable compensation or demand that they cease using your image immediately if you find someone in violation. Some will work with you, but expect the majority to stonewall, threaten, and deny that it’s your photo. While the best option when this happens is to consult a knowledgeable copyright attorney, you have two basic options when it comes to infringement. First is to send a fairly priced invoice for the price of use of your photograph. The second is a polite cease-and-desist letter asking the guilty party to stop using your photograph. There are several ways to prevent your photo being stolen or misused without your consent. The most common are contracts, watermarks, Internet security measures, and artist’s “mistakes”. Contracts are the most sure-fired way to ensure that your photo doesn’t get stolen by a client or sold without your permission. It is vital that you outline the usage permitted of the photo and rights retained by the client and photographer. If these are not outlined before the shoot, the legitimacy of your case can be compromised. In writing such a contract, it is important to lay out the following factors above all: - Usage: Will be the photography be for personal use, commercial, or publication? If personal, will the client be able to re-print themselves? If commercial (such as an advertisement in a magazine) how many readers, how many times, how many places, etc. If publication, where, when, how many times, how many copies, etc. - Copyright: Do you or the client retain copyright? - Exclusitivity: Will you allow this image to be used by one or more organizations at the same time? - Payment: Price for said usage and agree permissions use. Keep in mind that there are a lot more parts of a contract that must be laid out, but the above points are the most important for maintaining your copyright protection. Semi-translucent watermarks are easy to make which are added to your photos and can provide a professional touch to your image. Keep in mind that having a watermark that takes up half the image can be a huge turnoff to potential clients and people simply wishing to view your photos. There are also numerous features on photo hosting websites and portfolio sites that offer protection for you image via the form of a transparent .gif overlay, “right-click-save-as” protection, and other anti-theft deterrents. Many photographers also put an “artist’s mistake” in their photos in order to prove that it really is their photo if stolen. This is usually a very discrete change such as changing the direction of an arrow on 52

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PHOTO a tire so that no one but you will notice the difference. If you so choose, you can also add a copyright statement to your photos, but it must be in the following format: © 2010 Mike Selander Photo competitions are yet another pitfall to watch out for. While there are a few reputable competitions out there, the vast majority require you to sign over all rights to your photographs in exchange for a one in a million shot of winning a relatively small prize. The full rights to your photographs are, in almost all instances, worth thousands perhaps even millions of dollars. You should NEVER give away these rights as the contracts involved usually involve you giving up the right to reproduce your images personally. However, clicking the “I agree” button constitutes you signing a contract. If you want to submit a photo for a contest, do read all the fine print and don’t be afraid to negotiate terms of submitted work. Make sure all the details are in writing and agreed upon before submitting any images. Keep in mind that there are multiple caveats with each of these laws and basic rules; we have only skimmed the surface of many of these topics. I highly suggest you do more reading on the laws involved in photography if you are interested in protecting your work. Unfortunately the Internet is never 100% completely safe. If someone is determined enough, there’s always a way to winter 2011

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PHOTO

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steal your photo no matter what you do to protect it. It is up to you to pursue action if your photos end up stolen. If there is one thing that I hope that you’ve gotten out of this article it’s that your photos are worth something of value. Be it money, access, or publication, your work IS work and it’s up to you to protect it and yourself. Even if you don’t protect it for yourself, please do it for photography as a whole. With each photo stolen or arbitrarily given away, photography as an occupation and living is degraded. While you may not be making your living off of your photos, there are those who are and allowing your work to be given away for nothing is making it harder for these folks to support their families.


Photo by: Erik Melander Camera: Canon EOS 40D Aperture: f/3.2 Shutter Speed: 1/40sec Focal length: 20mm ISO: 320

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Photo by: Erik Melander Camera: Canon EOS 40D Aperture: f/2.8 Shutter Speed: 1/6sec Focal length: 20mm ISO: 400


Calendar of Events: January - July BMW CCA - Rocky Mountain: Annual Ice Gymkhana January 23rd, 2011 Ravenhill / Georgetown Lake - Georgetown, Colorado http://www.rmcbmwcca.org/ USAudiClub - Ice Driving January 29th - February 1st, 2011 Bridgestone Winter Driver Facility - Steamboat Springs, Colorado http://usaudiclub.com/steamboat2011.html USAudiClub - Ice Driving February 13th, 2011 Georgetown Lake - Georgetown, Colorado http://usaudiclub.com/georgetownlake2011.html SCCA RM Solo - Winter Series #5 February 20th, 2011 World Arena - Colorado Springs, Colorado http://rmsolo.org/schedule.html SCCA RM Solo - Winter Series #6 March 12th, 2011 (tentative) Dick’s Sporting Goods Park - Commerce City, Colorado http://rmsolo.org/schedule.html NASA Rocky Mountain - Event #1 March 19th + 20th, 2011 High Plains Raceway (HPR) - Byers, Colorado HPDE / TT / Comp School / Instructor Clinic / NASA Racing http://www.nasarockymountain.com/nasa_forums/forumdisplay. php?f=94 Denver Auto Show March 30th - April 3rd, 2011 Denver Convention Center - Denver, Colorado http://www.paragonexpo.com/index.php/DE-General/ Metrodubs: April Pulls April 2nd, 2011 Carz Performance - Lakewood, Colorado http://metrodubs.com/forums/showthread.php?2167-April-Pulls-2011! NASA Rocky Mountain - Event #2 April 16th + 17th, 2011 Pikes Peak International Raceway (PPIR) - Fountain, Colorado HPDE / TT / NASA Racing http://www.nasarockymountain.com/nasa_forums/forumdisplay. php?f=92

NASA Rocky Mountain - Event #3 May 14th + 15th, 2011 Pueblo Motorsport Park (PMP) - Pueblo, Colorado HPDE / TT / NASA Racing / Nostalgia Racing http://www.nasarockymountain.com/nasa_forums/forumdisplay. php?f=95 Volkswagens On the Green (VWotG) 2011 May 22nd, 2011 Jefferson County Fair Grounds - Golden, Colorado http://www.vwec.org/ AutoMezzi XXI June 5th, 2011 Location TBD http://www.automezzicolorado.org/ NASA Rocky Mountain - Event #4 June 11th + 12th, 2011 Hallett Motor Racing Circuit (HMRC) - Jennings, Oklahoma TT / NASA Racing w/ NASA Texas division http://www.nasarockymountain.com/nasa_forums/forumdisplay. php?f=96 Pikes Peak International Hill Climb 2011 June 26th, 2011 Pikes Peak Mountain - Manitou Springs, Colorado http://www.usacracing.com/ppihc NASA Rocky Mountain - Event #5 July 2nd + 3rd, 2011 Pikes Peak International Raceway (PPIR) - Fountain, Colorado HPDE / TT / NASA Racing / Endurance Racing http://www.nasarockymountain.com/nasa_forums/forumdisplay. php?f=93 Austin-Healey Colorado Conclave 2011 July 3rd - 8th, 2011 Colorado Springs, Colorado http://www.austinhealeyconclave.com/ USAudiClub - Drivers Education July 23th - 24th, 2011 High Plains Raceway - Byers, Colorado http://usaudiclub.com/eventcalendar.html

For updated events, please check the calendar at EuroBerge.com

Legal: Although the information on this Internet site and publication is presented in good faith and believed to be correct, EuroBerge makes no representations or warranties as to the completeness or accuracy of any information. In no event will EuroBerge be responsible for any damages of any sort, including indirect, incidental, or consequential damages, arising out of the use of its publication or website or reliance on the information available in its publication or website. The information in the EuroBerge publication may be protected in the United States and internationally by copyright, trade dress or intellectual property laws. No use of any information may be made without the prior, written authorization of the owners. You may not use EuroBerge’s name or any material contained in the EuroBerge publication to imply endorsement, sponsorship, or affiliation with EuroBerge in any manner without prior written authorization. You should not construe the information

in the EuroBerge publication as a recommendation for the use or manufacture of any product, process, equipment or formulation. EuroBerge makes no representation or warranty, either express or implied, that such use or manufacture will not infringe the property of another. EuroBerge provides links to other Web sites solely for your convenience, as pointers to information that may be useful to users of the EuroBerge readers. If you access the links posted in EuroBerge, said publication makes no warranties concerning the content of those sites, that those sites are free from claims of copyright, trademark, or other infringement, or that those sites adhere to an appropriate privacy policy. EuroBerge does not endorse, sanction, or verify the information that is provided on linked sites. Unless otherwise specifically indicated, EuroBerge has no affiliation with any other organization mentioned or described in the EuroBerge publication.

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