CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS Winter 2010 by Europa Star HBM

2010

TRENDS & COLOURS International Jewellery - www.CIJintl.com

International Jewellery COUTURE 288/3 Designing the Trends 2010

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EDITOR’S LETTER

(RE-)INTRODUCING TRENDS & COLOURS More than a decade ago, International Jewellery/Couture published its first annual trends tracker guide, called Trends & Colours. Quite the pioneer in those days, we talked about the trends in jewellery and how fashion influences, to a degree, the world of fine jewellery. After an absence of a few years, we are delighted to bring you, our readers, a new and revamped Trends & Colours. During this time, jewellery’s connection to fashion has, if anything, become even closer since more and more designers are using jewellery—both fine and costume—to show off their creations. French couturier, Christophe Guillarmé, explains, “jewellery is clearly an obvious extension of an outfit and I use it on the catwalk to add fun and glamour to my creations. In some cases, we use extravagant and fancy jewellery to give a strong eye-catching look.” And the look is what it is all about. For the Spring/Summer 2010 collections, global runways were full of statement-making necklaces, stackable bangles, wide cuffs, and dangling hoops. But this is only part of the jewellery story for 2010. For a broader perspective of this year’s design directions, Trends & Colours presents the top twelve trends that consumers will be looking for this year. And, since colour is one of the main trends, we also include the opinions of several fashion designers on the use of colour in their 2010 collections. Some of the 2010 jewellery trends are not really that new. Rather, they continue to evolve with different colours or changes in texture, form, or styling. Others are more recent, since trends, by definition, are influenced by economic, social, and cultural factors. The openwork design direction, for example, is the result of the current economic malaise and the record-breaking prices of gold and platinum. The organic and eco-jewellery trends arise from changes in social and cultural attitudes. A visit to Córdoba’s state-of-the art jewellery school.

A trend of a different sort is the growing importance, and even necessity, for jewellers to have an Internet presence as a part of a balanced marketing program. The online consulting firm IC Agency, partner of Europa Star, examines the importance of social marketing for a selection of global luxury jewellery brands with lessons that can be applied to all businesses. In our Industry Focus, we travelled to Spain to visit the unique and remarkable Parque Joyero de Córdoba and its state-of-the art jewellery school, whose students will undoubtedly be part of the trendsetters of the future. From all of the team here at International Jewellery/Couture, we extend our best wishes for a happy and profitable 2010. Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief International Jewellery/Couture

16 East 52nd Street - Suite 701 New York, NY 10022 800-223-0774 www.gumu c h i a n . c o m

S P E C I A L TR E N D S & C O L O U R S 2010 TRENDS & COLOURS takes you on a visual journey through the worlds of fine jewellery, fashion, and top international design for 2010. It starts with the Cover Story featuring ASSAEL (6), one of the most remarkable pearl companies today, and its founder who restored the black pearl as the “Queen of Jewels.” The journey continues to the red carpet with IN THE PRESS (8). Since trends are so important, TRENDS & COLOURS showcases the TOP TWELVE TRENDS IN INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FOR 2010 (12) and its rainbow of jewellery colours with HOT RED (32), ENERGETIC ORANGE (34), NATURE’S GREEN (36), SHADES OF BLUE (38), PINKS & PURPLES (40), BLACK & WHITE (44), and a look at MULTI-COLOURED (48) jewellery from Italy. With Saint Valentine’s Day an important jewellery-giving occasion for the global industry, TRENDS & COLOURS pays homage to these PRECIOUS HEARTS (42), while looking ahead to the summer wedding season with the special bridal feature SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW (50), without forgetting what men will be wearing in 2010 in JUST FOR MEN (45). Where would the trends be without the fine designers who create them, such as PALMIERO (CII+52), GUMUCHIAN (3+13), THE FIFTH SEASON (CIV+28), RAMON (24), ANDREOLI (29), REBECCA (10), ZALEMARK (26), VIANNA (5), the lovely jewellery from Brazil represented by GINGA (17), BAPALAL KESHAVLAL (30), ROSATO (15) and all the other trendsetting designers featured in this issue. And, importantly, where would jewellery be without the GIA (73) certified gemstones and diamonds provided by industry suppliers such as ROSY BLUE (53), EUROSTAR (54), and ALPILEX (56). Another important element in the industry is protecting jewellery against risk, with insurers such as JEWELERS MUTUAL (77). What is the future of fine jewellery on the web? How can social networking affect businesses and brands? Learn more in the special feature SEARCHING FOR FINE JEWELLERY ON THE WEB (68). Last but not least, as an example of a unique venture in the global jewellery sector, Industry Focus visits the PARQUE JOYERO DE CORDOBA (74), an outstanding Spanish accomplishment. Our SHOWS & EXHIBITIONS section (78) lists many of the international events in 2010, among them, not to be missed, BASELWORLD (58), VICENZAORO (60), INHORGENTA (63), BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELLERY (66), IIJS SIGNATURE (69), OROAREZZO (CIII), and the Tucson AGTA GEM FAIR (71). One company, LUXURY JEWELS 24 (79), organizes online trade shows. TRENDS & COLOURS is designed to help you make profitable choices in your jewellery selections for the upcoming year. Enjoy the read, but your journey into fine jewellery does not end here. For daily updates on all the newest designs and the latest global jewellery industry news, 24/7/365, click on www.CIJintl.com! TRENDS & COLOURS 2010 is brought to you by International Jewellery Couture and Europa Star. Editor Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Rayan Innue, Alexandra Montandon • Graphic Design Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director Philippe Maillard • On the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com • Published by VNU Business Media - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2010 by Europa Star International Jewellery. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of International Jewellery.

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COVER FEATURE

ASSAEL INTERNATIONAL REDEFINES In ancient Tahitian lore, the God Oro touched the heart of his love with a magnificent black pearl. In modern Tahitian history, a mortal named Salvador J. Assael enabled millions of hearts to be touched by this extraordinary gem when he restored the black pearl to its rightful place as the “Queen of Jewels.” By Diana S. Zimmerman Salvador Assael’s story didn’t start with Tahitian black pearls. It dates back three generations to the early 1900s in Europe, where his family was in the precious gem business. In 1941, they relocated to the United States. Little did anyone know that in a mere five years, destiny would begin to play its hand for the younger Assael. Fate brought him to the world of pearls in 1946 when he bartered thousands of his father’s excess watches to post-war Japanese companies for cultured pearls—and so began his love affair with these precious jewels. Always seeking new markets, this brilliant young marketer and strategist would, in 1976, bring “The Tahitian Natural Colour Cultured Pearl” to the attention of the world. Assael’s plan included introducing the newly perfected Tahitian black cultured pearl to Harry Winston who, because of their remarkable beauty, instantly bought all the strands he offered. But instead of selling them as necklaces, Winston created spectacular diamond and pearl jewelry. Upscale jewellers everywhere quickly jumped on the bandwagon, in part due to Assael’s clever approach of allowing them to return any that didn’t sell. “None were returned,” he says, and by 1980, the Tahitian black pearl became the counterpart to the heavily prized South Sea white cultured pearls. Today, Assael International is the world leader in South Sea and Tahitian natural colour cultured pearls. Through its leadership and relentless efforts, these extraordinary gems have

THE PEARL

reached worldwide demand and prominence. No longer is the black pearl, with its bewitching magic, the exclusive domain of royalty. Stunning designs swirl diamonds around perfectly shaped pearls, or interlace them with exotic gems, and are worn by women the world over. Magnificent golds, enticing greys, seductive blacks, and lustrous whites are set with precious and semi-precious stones to create necklaces, brooches, and earrings that would make Oro himself jealous. Each pearl in an Assael necklace is carefully matched, marked, and graded by highly trained individuals with years of experience. Every strand is of the highest quality, and all Assael pearls, whether from Australia, Indonesia, Japan, or Tahiti, are guaranteed to be of natural colour and untreated. But spectacular jewels are not the only appeal of Assael International. The company’s handpicked staff is equally as exceptional. They are individuals and artisans who bring intuition and a lifetime of experience to each jewel. “Our experts travel the world to find the best quality cultured pearls and precious stones for our creations,” Assael proudly insists. “We demand the highest level of quality to assure a superior product.” This is evidenced by the fact that when the company participated in the most prestigious fashion show in Paris, all twenty-two models wore necklaces, earrings, and rings made by Assael. And no wonder, one look at the company’s new collections and it is clear that even the ancient Tahitian gods could not have created more seductive jewels. (www.assael.com)

IN THE PRESS

The â&#x20AC;&#x153;Million Dollar Platinum Shoe,â&#x20AC;? created by American shoe designer Stuart Weitzman using 464 Kwiat diamonds on a platinum mesh frame, was honoured with an official postage stamp from Spain, during an event in November, marking the 50th anniversary of the internationalization of the Spanish shoe industry.

For her wedding to Jared Kushner last October, Ivanka Trump, dressed in Vera Wang, looked no further than her own jewellery collection for her diamond earrings and hairpin, while she wore a vintage diamond bracelet.

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1. Chinese actress Bai Ling sporting various pieces of jewellery by Rebecca. 2. Mariah Carey wore Zorab chandelier earrings made of pearls, orange sapphires, and diamonds while filming her new music video “Obsessed” at The Plaza Hotel in New York City. 3. Phoebe Price, in a Christophe Guillarmé gown, wore the “S” Appeal ring by French designer Sandra Bérété, Ode Saint-Lys Joaillerie, at Cannes. 4. Cat Deeley wore platinum and diamond bracelet, earrings, and ring by Neil Lane at the 61st Emmy Awards. 5. Nick Cannon, the new host of NBC’s popular TV show “America’s Got Talent,” marked his debut wearing CliQ™ Links, micropavé diamond cufflinks, with diamond pushbutton technology. 6. AnnaLynne McCord wore the platinum “Shibuki” necklace by Yuka Kobayashi for Kuwayama, Japan, at the 61st Emmy Awards. 7. Actress Phoebe Price wore a selection of Tara Moor silver jewellery at Cannes. 8. Hilary Swank wore Le Vian chocolate diamond drop earrings and chocolate diamond paisley bracelet at the 13th Annual Hollywood Film Festival Awards Gala, where she was honoured with a “Hollywood Actress Award.” 9. Marisa Miller wore the $3 million Victoria’s Secret Harlequin Fantasy Bra at the brand’s fashion show in December. Created by Damiani, this bejeweled garment is an extraordinary feat of engineering, involving links of intertwining 18K gold set with 2,355 white and cognac diamonds for a total of nearly 150 carats. 10. Sandra Bullock wore 24K gold and silver “Wheat” earrings by Gurhan at the MTV Awards. 11. Glenn Close wore platinum and diamond earrings by Fred Leighton, at the 61st Emmy Awards.. 12. Legendary comic and actress, Carol Channing, wore Rhonda Faber Green’s signature Filigreen™ Heart© pendant to her landmark performance “The First 80 Years are the Hardest” in Hollywood.

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The Incredible Difference in Retail Business M agnificent, cutting-edge and breathtakingly beautiful best describe the fashion-forward, Italian Made jewelry produced by REBECCA, a division of Testi, SpA.

ADVERTORIAL

Currently celebrating its third year in America, the brand has taken the US market by storm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; offering retailers a grand alternative to expensive precious metals thanks to its innovative goldplated bronze and stainless steel jewelry. Savvy consumers and celebrities are donning REBECCA jewelry and keep coming back for more.

Cuff from Cleopatra Collection. Model wearing Cleopatra Collection.

Griffe Collection

“REBECCA is a must-have for any jewelry retailer who wants an easy multi-item sale. This line layers like an Italian wedding cake. Don’t be shy in suggesting 3 to 7-piece sales. It gives the client complete flexibility in wear, and her friends will definitely be following,” Armen Darakjian, President of Darakjian Jewelers in Southfield, MI.

he concept behind REBECCA, which was founded by Alessandro Testi in 1998 in Empoli, Italy, is to keep the quality, look and feel of Italian Made at the forefront, while offering innovative, glamorous jewelry to women in all walks of life. The REBECCA customer wants to look sexy, alluring and individualistic, and REBECCA answers her call. REBECCA also offers a striking men’s jewelry collection that is fast appealing to a discriminating male audience. REBECCA partners with its retailers, offering a strong mix of advertising, promotions, displays, POP materials, trunk shows, and innovative incentive programs. This dynamic brand will make a marked difference in one’s retail business.

“Finding great jewelry is so critical, and in today’s economy, REBECCA is especially important because it offers such a grand look at a great price,” Craig Husar, Chief Romance Expert and President of Lyle Husar Designs, Brookfield, WI.

REBECCA, TESTI USA Santa Monica, CA 310-319-9600 www.testiusa.com

ndeed, REBECCA is unlike anything else on the market. Giving customers million-dollar looks at incredible prices, REBECCA offers new collections every season, and adds to its most coveted lines so there is always something wonderfully fresh for followers to indulge in. Bestsellers include the openlinked Griffe hoop line, the bold and sexy Cleopatra series, modern Melrose line, and the romantic gemstone and bronze Roma and Tropezienne lines.

Tropezienne Collection

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T R E N D S

The Top Twelve Trends in Jewellery for 2010 In looking at jewellery trends, it is important to also look to the fashion world, where couturiers are increasingly using jewellery to show off their creations. For the Spring/Summer 2010 collections, runways were full of statement-making necklaces, stackable bangles, wide cuffs, and dangling hoops. But this is only part of the jewellery story for 2010, as International Jewellery presents its top twelve trends for this year.

By Cynthia Unninayar

COLOUR

In both fashion and jewellery, 2010 is heralding an optimistic new year with vibrant colours that add a sense of excitement to the colour palette. As in fashion, colour remains a strong trend in jewellery. Evoked with gemstones, enamel, and metals, colours range from subtle tone-on-tone and pastel shades to energetic jewel tones.

NATURE Paula Crevoshay

What could be more vibrant than Nature. It has and continues to serve as constant inspiration for jewellery designers. The most popular trends are flowers, butterflies, marine life, and snakes. In both stylized and realistic forms.

Tibi by Amy Smilovic, using Pantone Violet: We’re responding with colouring that is unabashedly happy and feminine with an edge, colours that evoke a new beginning and upbeat fresh start.

Rebecca Taylor, using Pantone Tomato Purée: We feel that “anything goes.” We are not feeling restricted. In times like these it is important to do what feels right and believe in yourself, and the customer will buy what excites her.

Vianna

Victor Mayer

Mathon Paris Calgaro Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2010.

The diamond studded prong collection designed by women for women 16 East 52nd Street - Suite 701 New York, NY 10022 800-223-0774 w w w.gumuchian.com

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Tschetter Studio Rina Limor

NEW METALS

Rebecca

As jewellers expand their repertoire—because of price, practicality, or design—they are looking at new metals and finishes. While gold and platinum remain the basis of fine jewellery, designers are using palladium, titanium, bronze, and steel. The latest material to hit the marketplace is Scott Kay’s SKCobalt, a special cobalt alloy called BioBlu™27. Strong, durable, and hypoallergenic, this white metal is a natural for bridal jewellery. Another strong trend is blackened metal—silver, steel and even gold— which offers a dramatic backdrop for diamonds or other materials.

Autore

OLD CUTS

As couturiers often turn back the clock to find inspiration in vintage clothing, jewellery designers also look to the styles of yesteryear. The revival of the rose cut is one example. Begun two years ago, it continues in earnest as more luxury brands incorporate this old cut into their pieces. Other shapes and slices of diamonds and gemstones, along with “raw” stones are also gaining in popularity as designers and consumers appreciate this more natural look. David Rodriguez using Pantone Fusion Coral: I am working very hard to keep the look exciting, but at a sharper price so that the customer will love the item and not have to think twice about purchasing it.

Peter Som using Pantone Turquoise: Each piece of clothing must be its own little special jewel. This happens through fabric, cut, detail and most definitely colour! Nina Runsdorf Scott Kay

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T R E N D S Ramon

Rosato

Bergio

HOOP EARRINGS

Hoop earrings continue to be seen everywhere, from Main Street to Wall Street, from the red carpet to the classroom. They come in a variety of materials and sizes. More recently, they are drawing from the past to find embellishment with gemstones, diamonds, and even little charms. As they evolve, they also are moving from round to oval to elongated or other shapes, some open, some closed. Tia Cibani using Pantone Tomato PurĂŠe: I feel that we need to evoke strong emotions with our consumers in order to convince them. A product must touch their senses, and colour plays a significant role in this!

Bangles and cuffs were one of the major trends on the runways this season. In a variety of forms and sizes, they ranged from stacked bangles, to solid exotic designs, to lacy and open cuffs. With a style to fit any wrist and any pocketbook, bangles and cuffs are must-haves for any jewellery wardrobe.

Dennis Basso using Pantone Violet: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important that this collection be exciting and, using colour, show the consumer something new that she will want to add to her wardrobe.

Jewelmer Alberian & Aulde

WRIST WEAR

Nowhere in the world is the impact of earrings better understood than in Brazil. Brazilian Earrings combine magnificent colored gemstones with the rhythm and movement of Brazilian culture and design.

Visit the Brazil Pavilion and discovery the best of Brazilian earring design.

Upcoming shows:

JWS Abu Dhabi Jewellery Arabia

For further assistance contact IBGM www.ibgm.com.br | phone: 00 55 61 3326-3926

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T R E N D S Tiffany Kunz

Jewellery Theatre

Toby Pomeroy

ORGANIC

Familiar stones such as rough and sliced diamonds are not the only organic shapes being used in fine jewellery. Metals are taking on textured looks and asymmetrical or fluid shapes in what can be described as organic design. As attitudes shift towards more “organic” in other spheres of life, it is not surprising that jewellery is following this trend. Catherine Malandrino using Pantone Tuscany: Everything that brings a smile to a face is valuable for me, so color in this present environment is essential.

Garavelli

ECO-JEWELLERY

With today’s concern for the environment, fair wages, and safe working conditions for miners, jewellers, and gem cutters, an entire movement has been created to offer jewellery made from recycled or ethically-mined gold, fair-trade gemstones, and conflict-free diamonds. A number of brands have gone a step further and donate part of their sales proceeds to environmental causes. A trend for now and the future. Reem Acra using Pantone Aurora: My collection will stay happy, vibrant and versatile with playful options to change the look completely. Accessories are a big part of this collection and they give another layer or dimension to the clothes.

Rodney Rayner

Manoel Bernardes

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Stephen Webster

Magerit Manoel Bernardes

Dior

SILVER

In ancient times, silver was worth more than gold. How times have changed! But silver has once again gained its noble status. Even designers who once ignored the shiny white metal, preferring gold or platinum, are now offering lower-priced pieces in sterling. Silver jewellery comes in a variety of designs and textures, with or without diamonds and gemstones. It can even be treated to come in any colour. The latest trend is blackened silver set with diamonds. Pamella DeVos using Pantone Eucalyptus: We recognize that consumers are being more careful with purchases, and they want perfect fit and real value. Our goal is to excite our customers with fabrics in beautiful new colors at sharper price points each and every season.

EDGY

From daggers to skulls, from barbed wire to bullets, there is a market for jewellery on the edge. Part of the urban chic, these pieces are made in a wide variety of materials and styles, from earrings to bracelets, pendants to cufflinks, for both men and women.

Lagos

Thuy Diep using Pantone Aurora: I exude optimism through quirkiness, confidence and individualism, embracing the future by defining it. Colours are key, not through over-indulgence, but through beautiful, understated sophistication.

eris Sabido & Basteris Maya Jewels

Vicolo dei sarmati, 1/A - 15048 Valenza (AL) - Italy tel. (+) 39 0131 946665 - fax (+) 39 0131 946095 e-mail: andreoli@andreoli-gioielli.com www.andreoli-gioielli.com Presenti alle fiere di: BASILEA - NEW YORK - LAS VEGAS (Couture JCK) - VICENZA

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Trésor Bapalal Keshavlal Scenario

Rosato

OPENWORK

The high gold prices have led designers to innovate. While much openwork is still done by hand, some designers are using new technologies to create inventive hollow and wire pieces, while laser cutting offers innovative solutions for exquisite openwork and lacy creations. Erin Fetherston using Pantone Pink Champagne: People need to be inspired, and colour creates excitement and desire. People are also looking for investment pieces that are seasonless and timeless. Neutral classic colours in combination with fresh and vibrant colours seem like a relevant direction in this time.

Roberto Coin

BEADS

“To bead or not to bead,” that is no longer the question. Today, bead bracelets are the hottest trend going. An extension of charms, they fulfil two needs: the desire to personalize one’s jewellery and the joy of collecting. Made generally in silver with gold or enamel accents and gemstones, bead bracelets generate traffic and create customer loyalty. Who can buy just one? Adrienne Vittadini using Pantone Amparo Blue: Colour is emotional and will be a very important mood lifter for spring 2010. This collection is based on bursts of colour and a mix of patterns with signature Adrienne Vittadini heritage.

Halia

Pandora

Chamilia

SPOTLIGHT

RAMON –

CRAFTING PERFECTION Headquartered in Barcelona, RAMON has taken its place among fine European jewellers. With a wide range of stylish jewellery, ranging from its elegant and sinuous gold and diamond pieces, to its bold gemstone collections, to its whimsical little animals, all of RAMON’s jewellery is meticulously designed to exacting standards of perfection. “Our focus has always been on providing high-quality jewellery with a global appeal,” stated some years ago Carlos E. Ramon, former chairman of the company, now run by his son, also named Carlos. “There are no preconceived rules in the design of our jewellery. The past and the present are the basis for the future. We try for acute artistic sensitivity, extraordinary creativity, as well as a search for perfection in each design, and we use only the finest quality materials.” These high standards led the brand, in 1961, to earn the coveted hallmark stamp number 17B of the Barcelona Professional Association of Jewellers. During the late 1960s, the brand began its international expansion, exporting pieces to Germany, Mexico, Puerto Rico, the USA, and the Middle East. This growth has placed the firm in a privileged position in the marketplace, providing it with tremendous prestige and appreciation by retailers around the world. Among the many retailers who appreciate the design and quality of RAMON jewellery is Lourdes Zeik, co-owner of New Jersey-based Leonardo Jewelers: “When we put Ramon jewellery in our showcases, its quality permeates through the glass. The designs are really quite distinctive, whether in the form of a link bracelet with diamond accents, a large diamond piece, bold gemstone rings, or graceful earrings and swirling pendants.” Nowadays, with more than 300 national and international customers, Carlos, the son, is following the path of excellence started by his father 60 years ago. He certainly has reason to be proud of the reputation that RAMON has earned for its timeless designs, high-quality pieces, and unwavering dedication to crafting perfection. RAMON +34.934.343.000 ramon@ramon.es www.ramon.es 24

SPOTLIGHT

ZALEMARK – BUILDER OF BRANDS “If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space.” - Steven Zale By Rayan Innue

Silver and gemstone ring by Seventeen.

The founder of Zalemark, Steven Zale may live on the edge, but his company certainly occupies a large space in the jewellery world. With a successful stable of brands, this visionary entrepreneur has definitely made his “mark” with Zalemark. “The name was inspired by my father,” he explains. “Before he passed away, he told me ‘whatever you do, leave a mark of quality.’ And, this has been my mantra ever since.” The mark of quality is apparent in all of Zalemark’s creations. But they go beyond being well crafted with quality materials. With a concern for fair working practices and environmental protection, the company uses “clean” gold, Fair Trade gems, and conflict- 18K gold, citrine, sapphire, tourmaline, and free diamonds. “We only work with materials tsavorite ring by Badgley Mischka. whose source we can verify,” he insists.

Silver and turquoise bracelet by B.Smith. Steven Zale

Right from the beginning, the award-winning Zale understood the importance of branding. He focused his efforts on creating and developing celebrityendorsed jewellery brands or those based on iconic personalities. He launched Demeter® in 2005 with supermodel Rachel Hunter as spokesperson. Featuring a range of colourful pieces in gemstones, diamonds, and 18K gold, it was named after the Greek goddess of the harvest. (demeterjewelry.com) Zalemark ventured into the youth jewellery market with the launch of Seventeen™ in collaboration with the magazine. This line offers playful pieces in quality sterling silver and gemstones. (seventeenjewelry.com) One of his other projects, B. Smith Jewelry, was created in partnership with B. Smith, a fashion model turned lifestyle expert, TV talk show host, author, restaurateur, and entrepreneur. The collection includes affordable and fun jewellery made in a variety of materials. (bsmithjewelry.com) More recently, Steven Zale has ventured into the world of bridal and high fashion with the Badgley Mischka line of fine jewellery. The design duo of Mark Badgley

18K gold, diamond, and pink tourmaline ring by Demeter.

18K gold bridal rings by Badgley Mischka.

and James Mischka has been hailed by Vogue as one of the “Top 10 American Designers” as well as the darlings of the Hollywood set. Having made their mark over the past two decades with glamorous, stylish and wearable evening wear, bridal gowns, and accessories, the team now partners with Zalemark for a line of couture bridal and fashion jewellery in 18K gold set with diamonds and gemstones. (badgleymischkajewelry.com)

Blue topaz and diamond earrings by Badgley Mischka.

As part of his desire to give back to the community, Steven Zale supports many charities but is particularly involved with Operation Smile, a nonprofit global organization providing surgery for children with facial deformities. A portion of total sales of the Demeter collection is donated to this worthy cause. Along with Zale’s transformation of Zalemark into a major product design and development agency have come a number of recognitions including “Forbes 2008 Designer of the Year,” 18K gold, diamond, and and the “2009 Best Jewelry Designers Award” given by the amethyst ring by Demeter. U.S. Commerce Association. But Steven Zale is not resting on his laurels. He continues to define the edge while searching for the next brand to build. (zalemark.com)

White gold and gemstone necklace by Badgley Mischka. 27

PROFILE

THE FIFTH SEASON Zest for life and the echo of a new dimension. By Rayan Innue

Gold Pearls

Pebbles

Afrika 28

The Fifth Season is a young company, both in spirit and in age. Created with an emphasis on being different, its collections are also in total harmony with current tastes and fashion. They include jewellery made of white, yellow, and pink gold, as well as platinum and silver in order to achieve unexpected and vivid designs. The result is a captivating collection epitomized by a strong figurative design, yet crafted in the tradition of fine artisanal workmanship supported by today’s most sophisticated technology. The pieces seem to change character when on the body, echoing the moods, personality, and behaviour of their wearer. They can be fascinating or formal, comfortable with daywear or elegant when framed by a beautiful evening dress. To please the young and Masai the young-at-heart, The Fifth Season is now presenting several new lines. In the Afrika Collection, one of the most representative, the flexible and light soul of Indian rubber meets the sublime splendour of gold and precious stones or diamonds. In some pieces, the black rubber marries beautifully with black rhodium-plated gold set with black sapphires. Close-fitting necklaces, exotic bracelets, earrings, and rings are magnetic tools for seduction dedicated to contemporary tribal queens. The Masai line offers a range of intricately woven pieces in yellow, white and peach gold with diamonds. From the coasts of Western Europe to New Zealand, from the shores of Bahrain to Southern California, beaches are layered with pebbles that have been caressed by the sea’s unending waves. Inspired by these natural shapes, the Pebbles Collection includes necklaces, bracelets, rings, and earrings made in precious electroformed 18K gold or varnished “pebbles,” strung together on gold chains. A classical and feminine collection, the Gold Pearls Collection offers delicate and slightly formed pieces that are created with an exclusive electroforming technique. Volume and lightness come together to give shape and body to a range of smooth and graceful beads evoking baroque pearls in different hues: white, rose, yellow and chocolate gold. A uniquely contemporary brand, The Fifth Season was born of a dream to create jewels capable of exciting real emotions and of interpreting the soul and the personality of the woman who wears them. It evokes a zest for life, and the echo of a new dimension. (www.thefifthseason.it)

PROFILE

ANDREOLI – DAZZLING TO DEMURE While remaining true to its classic roots, the Italian brand is expanding into the world of tantalizing titanium. By Alexandra Montandon

Valenza-based jeweller Andreoli enjoys a welldeserved reputation for its high quality haute joaillerie pieces made of exquisite diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds set in platinum or gold, and many of these one-of-a-kind pieces adorn the necks and ears of royalty around the world. The pieces are distinguished by their profound originality and have led the brand to international recognition in just a few short years. For some time now, however, owner Jack Hadjibay has been experimenting with other gemstones and metals, inventing looks that remain true to Andreoli’s classic feel while becoming more playful and youthful. One of these new looks involves the use of titanium. An ultra-light metal that is half the weight of gold, titanium is also very difficult to work with. “We are not breaking the mould with titanium,” says Hadjibay with a smile, “because there is no mould to break. This is really quite new.” The advantage of titanium’s lighter weight is offset by the extreme difficulty of setting precious gemstones into the metal. “It took our designers a full year of intense experimentation to achieve the desired effect,” he adds. And the desired effect is stunning. They range from extraordinary brooches in the form of resplendent butterflies or flowers made of coloured layers of titanium and gemstones to the more classical gem-set rose earrings and rings made in this versatile metal. Amid all the inventive techniques and unique designs, Jack Hadjibay always keeps one thing in mind for his pieces. “I want women to feel comfortable in my jewellery. I want them to love the piece and to love themselves in it.” He also insists on excellent quality and craftsmanship, which are readily apparent at first glance for all Andreoli’s jewellery, from the dazzling to the demure. (www.andreoli-gioielli.com) 29

SPOTLIGHT

BAPALAL KESHAVLAL – REFLECTING FEMININE EMOTION A pioneer in luxury jewellery revisits its raison d’être – and comes out illuminated. Why are we in the jewellery business? What was the need for our origin? Whom do we truly serve? The family that runs Bapalal Keshavlal asked itself these very questions during a recent period of introspection and planning. Established in 1939, Bapalal Keshavlal is acknowledged as a pioneer in luxury jewellery and recognized as one of India’s top exporters. Its image is one of a by-appointment-only jeweller, with exclusive designs, manufacturing muscle, and high quality standards. At its core, this is a company that is mesmerized by beautiful things. Its design orientation is the nucleus from which it reaches out, in blind faith, towards Beauty. To represent its new identity, it has chosen a circular radiating symbol inspired by the cosmos and the origin of all things. It denotes a creative spirit moving unfettered toward its ultimate potential—an emotion that desires consummation. Bapalal’s jewellery reflects the wonderfully complex world of feminine emotion. After all, doesn’t jewellery bring out a woman’s emotions? Be it an aged widow lending beauty to her life with a serene solitaire, or a blushing bride bedecked in bangles. All answers converge on the woman. The process that led to this change of identity and focus has been unfolding for the past five years. From being a quality-conscious manufacturer, the company has transformed itself into a luxury designer for the world’s most elite jewellery stores. From simply utilizing its manufacturing facility of 250 craftsmen to maximum efficiency, it has created a design house whose jewels serve the seminal beauty of femininity. What makes Bapalal’s designs so unique is the source of inspiration and resulting distinctive combinations. For one, its Indian heritage is an endless reservoir of ideas. Yet, the company is also sensitive to trends influencing the international market. The multi-layered contributions of the 21st century woman imply a metamorphosis. Bapalal delightfully represents this new age intricacy through designs, in top quality diamonds and 18K gold, whose only common denominator is the intimate feel of luxury. In recent years, with the Auratam collection, Bapalal celebrates the spirit of the engraver, with gold as his mode and femininity as his muse. The designer uses state-of-the-art engraving-by-layering technology to create pieces that exhilarate in mosaic chiseling. Aurum is Latin for gold and Aurat is Hindi/Urdu for woman. Auratam is thus an ode to femininity that emerges, layer by luxurious layer, enraptured in gold. Sources of inspiration are therefore both personal and eclectic, while selling has always been considered secondary. Bapalal Keshavlal will continue to create beautiful jewels that enhance the inner lives of women and grace a realm of private feelings and unexpressed intimacies, where value is often unconsciously perceived. Bapalal Keshavlal T: 92.22.2368.4578, 2369.5248 - F: 92.22.2363.1678 E: luxury@vsnl.com - www.bapalalkeshavlal.com 30

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C O L O U R S

RED HOT

Red is the one colour that evokes extreme emotions, with symbolism that goes from one extreme to the other. Red is power. Red is passion. To celebrate, we paint the town red. Special occasions are red-letter days. To honour someone, we roll out the red carpet. Or, better yet, we give them a red jewel.

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1. Outfit by Tommy Hilfiger, S/S 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 2. 18k Gold and diamond round sunstone cocktail ring by Erica Courtney (USA). 3. Gemstone and diamond earrings in yellow gold by Fiamma (Brazil). 4. Gemstone and diamond earrings in yellow gold by FR Hueb (Brazil). 5. Red enamel, smoky quartz, diamond, and yellow gold ring by Carrera y Carrera (Spain). 6. Gold and gemstone pave ring by Rodney Rayner (Britain).

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7. Gemstone and gold “Fire” earrings by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 8. Rhodolite and diamond necklace in white gold by Vianna (Brazil). 9. Gemstone and diamond ring in pink gold by Magie Preziose (Italy). 10. Ruby, diamond, and gold bracelet by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 11. Rhodolite and diamond earrings in yellow gold by Brüner (Brazil). 12. Gemstone, diamond, and gold ring by De Grisogono (Switzerland). 13. Outfit by Zac Posen, F/W 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week).

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ENERGETIC E

ORANGE

Halfway between the fiery hot of red and the mellow warmth of ye yellow, orange is a dynamic tone that commands attention. It is a power colour, a healing colour, associate associated with endurance and vitality. Evocative off the orang is a colour on thee edge, between the heat of changing seasons, orange summer and the co etween opposites. Its warm cool of winterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a bridge between tones are fou etting sun, and, of course, in found in autumn leaves and the setting se pages. the fine jewellery on these 1. Gold, diamond, and Murano glass pendant by Fatimah Sewani for F.S. S. Designs (USA (USA). 2. Outfit by Cho Cheng, F/W 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 3. Gemstone and nd gold ring by B.Smith/Zalemark Smith/Zalemark (USA). 4. Gold and diamond ring by Natalie K (USA). 5. Sapphire and diamond pendant endant by Jacobâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jew Jewelry (Thailand). 6. Gemstone and pearl pendant by Autore (Australia).

7. 18K gold andd diamond Mandar Mandarin Garnet et Goddess Earrings by Erica Courtney (USA). 8. RRing in 18K rose gold with an orange heart-shaped eart-shape 3.08-caratt diamond and diamond diam melee by Rahaminov Diamonds (USA). 9. Ring in 18K gold with citrine and diamonds diam by Brüner (Brazil). 10. “Gomitolo” 85th Anniversary sar ring in sapphires,, diamonds, and 18K 18 gold by Damiani (Italy). 11. Bi-colour 75-carat Imperial topaz by Constantin Wild (Germany). 12. Citrine, diamond, and 18K gold earrings by Talento Jóias (Brazil). 13. Outfit by Carolina Herrera, S/S 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 14. “Clash” bracelet in sapphires, diamonds, and 18K gold by Valente (Italy).

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GOING GREEN N The colour of nature and the life force, green is the most restful of all the colours. It represents wellness and self-respect. Green is the color of balance and order. It is said that green gemstones can attract prosperity and wealth. Among the more popular green jewels, in their many shades, are emerald, tourmaline, peridot, jade, beryl, garnet, malachite, and topaz. 1. Carved Imperial jade pendant with diamonds by David Lin Jades (USA). 2. Outfit by Georges Chakra, S/S 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 3. Peridot and diamond “Malibu” earrings by Antonini (Italy). 4. Brooch made of peridot, lemon citrine, and diamonds by Bielka (USA). 5. Lemon quartz “Roma Aphrodite” ring with diamonds by Casato (Italy). 6. Peridot and diamond pendant by Sethi Couture (USA). 7. Emerald and diamond “Bovary” earrings by Zydo (Italy).

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8. Tsavorite and diamond earrings by Goldesign (Brazil). 9. Emerald and diamond earrings by Suna Bros (USA). 10. Green leather handbag with pearls and citrine by Utopia (Italy). 11. Tourmaline and gold pendant by Tamara Comolli (Germany) 12. Diamond and gemstone â&#x20AC;&#x153;Primaveraâ&#x20AC;? brooch by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy). 13. Mint green tourmaline and diamond earrings by Tamir (USA). 14. Ring in white gold and diamonds with green tourmaline and Paraiba tourmaline by Mathon Paris (France). 15. Outfit by Pamella Roland, F/W 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week).

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WEARING THE

BLUES 6 5 One of the most versatile colours in the jewellery world is blue. A calming colour, many believe blue is the colour of inspiration and spirituality. Shades range from the deep blues of sapphire, lapis lazuli, and topaz to the purplish blue of tanzanite, to the more greenish tones of aquamarine and turquoise. 7 1. Dress by Terexov, F/W 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 2. Earrings made of special cuts of blue gemstones and gold by Mattia Cielo (Italy). 3. Turquoise and granulated gold earrings by Zeira (USA). 4. Blue topaz and diamond earrings by Badgley Mischka/Zalemark (USA). 5. Sapphire and diamond ring by Jack Abraham (USA). 6. Aquamarine and sapphire ring by Elke Berr (Switzerland). 7. Turquoise and crystal â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hazeâ&#x20AC;? bracelet by Stephen Webster (Britain).

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8. Titanium and gemstone pendant by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 9. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Staurino (Italy). 10. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Waskoll (France). 11. Blue topaz â&#x20AC;&#x153;Urban Chessâ&#x20AC;? ring by Vianna (Brazil). 12. Tanzanite and diamond ring by Forum Design (USA). 13. Turquoise and silver bracelet by B.Smith/Zalemark (USA). 14. Hammered gold and gemstone ring by California Designs (USA). 15. Dress by Rebecca Taylor, S/S 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 16. Turquoise and gold earrings by Pamela Froman (USA).

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& PURPLES

6 5 The colour of universal love, pink is a quiet colour, associated with relaxation, calm, and contentment. Purple is the colour of royalty, imagination, and inspiration. Alone or together, pink and purple gemstones bring positive energy to any piece of jewellery.

1. Outfit by Amelia Toro, S/S 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 2. Pink quartz and rhodolite ring with diamonds by Brumani (Brazil). 3. Gemstone and gold earrings by DeGrisogono (Switzerland). 4. Rough tourmaline pendant by Elena Votsi (Greece). 5. Pink and purple sapphire and diamond brooch by Mathon Paris (France). 6. Gemstone and diamond ring in gold by Elke Berr (Switzerland). 7. Kunzite, diamond, and sapphire â&#x20AC;&#x153;Shangri-Laâ&#x20AC;? ring by Green G (Hong Kong).

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14 13 8. Amethyst, diamonds, and other gemstones in gold ring by Bellarri (USA). 9. Amethyst and diamond pendant by Color Story (USA). 10. Amethyst and pearl ring by Mimi (Italy). 11. Amethyst and diamond earrings by Christian Tse (USA). 12. Amethyst and diamond â&#x20AC;&#x153;MeStessoâ&#x20AC;? ring by Roberto Coin (Italy). 13. Pink portable leather jewellery case by Wolf Designs (USA). 14. Morganite and diamond ring set in white and pink gold by Makur (USA). 15. Outfit by Zac Posen, F/W 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week).

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PRECIOUS HEARTS 6

Among the most prominent symbols of romance and love is the celebration of Saint Valentine’s Day. And, what better way to celebrate the day of lovers than with a heart of fine jewellery. From traditional to evocative, heart designs all share a loving symbolism that goes far beyond their mere physical beauty. They are indeed precious hearts. 1. Outfit by The Heart Truth’s Red Dress Collection, F/W 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 2. “Romantica” diamond heart set in white, pink, and yellow gold by Chimento (Italy). 3. Diamond heart pendant by Chad Allison (USA). 4. Diamond and gold heart bracelet by Gumuchian (USA). 5. Silver heart pendant by Nina Ricci (France/Germany). 6. Blue sapphire and diamond heart pendant by Preziose (Brazil). 7. Sapphire and diamond heart pendant by Leo Pizzo (Italy).

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12 8. Diamond and gold heart pendant by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 9. Gemstone and gold heart pendant by Swarovski Enlightened (Austria). 10. Gold and black heart bracelet by Orianne Collins (Switzerland). 11. Diamond heart and gold ring by Comete (Italy). 12. Gemstone and gold rings by Vancox (Brazil). 13. Pink gold and diamond heart ring by Salvini (Italy). 14. Diamond and rock crystal â&#x20AC;&#x153;Toujoursâ&#x20AC;? heart pendant by FR Hueb (Brazil). 15. Diamond and gold heart pendant by Nanis (Italy). 16. Diamond and gold heart ring by Joia (France).

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BLACK &WHITE 5 6 One iss the th total absence of all colour. The other is the presence of all Bla is evoked with black diamonds, dia colour.r. Black sapphires, onyx, jet, and pearls. White dazzles with diamonds, sapphires, quartz, and pearls. Black stones are thought to have protective energy, while white gems symbolize purity and clarity. Together they form the polarities of Black and White, one of the most popular trends for 2010.

1. Outfit by Carlos Miele F/W 2010. (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week) 2. Black and white diamond brooch by MVee (Hong Kong). 3. White diamond, onyx, and gold ring by Carla Amorim (Brazil). 4. Black and white diamond ring by Rhonda Faber Green (USA). 5. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ballerinaâ&#x20AC;? ring in South Sea and Tahitian pearls by Schoeffel (Germany). 6. Ring in white and black diamonds and white gold by Picchiotti (Italy). 7. Blackened gold and diamond earrings by Jewellery Theatre (Russia).

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8. Jewellery in the form of writing instruments as in this diamond and gold pen by Favero (Italy). 9. Two large black diamonds surrounded by white diamonds in this ring by Diamond Shadows (USA). 10. Pendant in black sapphires, white diamonds, and white gold by Al Coro (Germany). 11. White diamond, onyx, and gold earrings by Danielle (Brazil). 12. Ring in white gold and diamonds by Ramon (Spain). 13. Black and white diamond ring by Noah (Spain). 14. Pendant in white gold and diamonds by Luca Carati (Italy). 15. Outfit by Venexiana S/S 2010. (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week)

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JUST FOR MEN 1

Not too long ago, the well-adorned man limited his jewellery to a watch, tie tack, and cufflinks. Today, he has added masculine bracelets, pendants, rings, belt buckles, and for some, even earrings. Coming in a wide variety of materials and colours, masculine jewellery ranges from the simple to the sophisticated, and is always in style.

1. Outfit by Calvin Klein, F/W 2010 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 2. Leather belt with black and white diamond buckle by Bachet (France). 3. Steel pendant by Andreas Daub (Germany). 4. Stainless steel, titanium, and purple anodized aluminium “Jupiter” ring by Chimento (Italy). 5. Black ion-plated stainless steel cufflinks with yellow ion-plated cable by Stuller (USA). 6. Pink gold cufflinks by Breguet (Switzerland). 7. “Midnight in Paris” cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels (France).

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8. Blue enamel and gold cufflinks by Victor Mayer (Germany). 9. “Evil-eye” cufflinks in gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Judith Ripka (USA). 10. Men’s “Rapture” jewellery in Black TiTM titanium, with sterling silver and diamond accents by Edward Mirell (USA). 11. Cufflinks in yellow gold with blue sapphires by Carrera y Carrera (Spain). 12. “Calatrava Cross” cufflinks in white gold by Patek Philippe (Switzerland). 13. White gold and black diamond “Flex-It” bracelet by Fope (Italy). 14. Cushion lapel pin in platinum, gold, and sapphire by Steven Kretchmer Designs (USA).

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ITA L I A N

ST YL E

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MULTI-COLOUR, ITALIAN STYLE Colour was on the catwalks at Milan Fashion Week for the Spring/Summer 2010 prêt-à-porter women’s wear collections, with lots of multicoloured flowers and geometric prints recalling the 1970s. Jewellery designers continue this trend with fresh and sunny jewels that can be worn for any occasion, with designs to meet nearly every budget. 1. Armchair by Cappellini. 2. “Rainbow” earrings in pink and white gold with diamonds and gemstones by Ninetto Terzano. 3. “Century” bracelets set in gold with diamonds and precious stones by Zydo. 4. “Alba” rings in gold with diamonds and gemstones by Calgaro. 5. Multi-coloured pendant by Mattia Cielo. 6. Outfit by Moschino, S/S 2010.

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7. “Clash” ring in gold and sapphires by Valente. 8. Flower earrings in white gold with coloured stones by Staurino Fratelli. 9. Multi-coloured “Bonbon” ring by Nanis. 10. “Marquise” multi-coloured ring in pink gold by Chimento. 11. Micro-mosaic & gold pendant by Le Sibille. 12. Multi-coloured “Malibu” necklace by Antonini. 13. “Black Lines” ring in gold with diamonds and sapphires by Palmiero. 14. Outfit by Krizia, S/S 2010. 15. Gemstone and gold rings by Casato.

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SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW. . .

This sums up current bridal trends since vintage styles are as popular as the most contemporary looks for today’s engagement rings and bands. The materials are also both old and new. Traditional platinum and gold are joined by palladium, titanium, and cobalt alloys, among other contemporary metals. For a bolder look, fancy colour diamonds and sapphires in all shapes and sizes add to the elegance of today’s wedding jewelry. 1. “Eriskay” diamond ring in pink gold with heart-shaped platinum shoulders by MaeVona (USA). 2. Wedding dress by Badgley Mischka. 3. Diamond and gold band by Benchmark (USA). 4. White gold ring with the new princessasscher cut diamond by AcP/Quadamas (USA). 5. Diamond and gold ring by Lovemark (USA). 6. Palladium and diamond ring by Novell Design Studio (USA). 7. White gold rings with a band of ruthenium plating by Breuning (Germany). 8. Yellow and white diamond and platinum “Halo” ring by Gumuchian (USA).

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9. “Deco” three stone gold ring with Royal Asscher cut center stone and side diamonds by Royal Asscher (USA). 10. Diamond and gold rings by Badgley Mischka/Zalemark (USA). 11. White gold rings set with diamonds and blue sapphires by Kirk Kara (USA). 12. Men’s band made of a new cobalt alloy in the SKCobalt collection by Scott Kay (USA). 13. Diamond and gold ring by James Kaya (USA). 14. Gold and diamond rings by Favero (Italy). 15. Platinum and diamond bands by Christian Bauer (Germany). 16. “Naked Diamond” gold band set with white and yellow diamonds by Peter Storm (USA).

PROFILE

PALMIERO JEWELLERY DESIGN

Feathers

Jewellery projected into the future, before the future has been imagined. By T. R. Flora

Arabesque

Fire

Fiocchi 52

In the panorama of fine jewellery, one of the most imaginative, ingenious, and appreciated brands is Palmiero Jewellery Design. Started more than thirty years ago by artist extraordinaire, Carlo Palmiero, the Valenza-based company has since been designing unique and unusual creations for discriminating women around the world. Palmiero jewellery communicates with the language of sculpture using the designer’s own personal vocabulary of precious stones, pearls, and gold. He shapes these materials and gives them life. “Jewellery must have certain very definite characteristics,” explains Carlos Palmiero. “It must have soft lines, sinuous and streamlined, yet it must also be wearable. It must be a harmonious blend of colours and stones.” Each year, Palmiero Jewellery Design creates numerous new models that join the others in a catalogue of timeless styles, projected into the future even before the future had been imagined. Among the latest additions is the new Fiocchi Collection. “During these times of global crisis, we decided to propose the theme of the bow, representing the Gift, a gesture that evokes love, warmth, and selfless giving,” says Palmiero. Whether in soft pink gold and diamonds or in cool white gold with contrasting black and white diamonds, the Fiocchi collection will delight the wearer. Among the brand’s many other lines is the timeless Arabesque Collection, offering a play of transparency and lightness, with delicate graphic designs that appear to be embroidered on a shimmering sheet of silk and diamonds, creating delicate floral arabesques with a hidden inner light. Also evoking playful movement, these fanciful swirls of creativity provide balance, at times with symmetry, at times with asymmetry. The Nature-inspired collections of Flower, Feathers, and Fire have become classics in the world of fine jewellery. All Palmiero pieces are original since each piece is made with different combinations of stones, making them personal and unique. A Palmiero jewel not only expresses shapes and colours, it transmits emotion. It frees the passion of its creator, its giver, and its wearer. (www.palmierogioielli.com) Flowers

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Keeping true to our values has earned us the trust of the world’s most prestigious watch and jewellery brands, along with the accolade of being named Belgium’s #1 value-adding diamond company for six consecutive years. To explore and develop brilliant partnership opportunities with the potential to light up your future, visit eurostardiamond.com. Eurostar, Trusted by the World’s Most Prestigious Watch & Jewellery Brands

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SPOTLIGHT

ALPILEX DIAMOND MANUFACTURING When looking for diamonds, make Alpilex Diamond Manufacturing your first stop.

For over 27 years, Antwerp-based Alpilex has been supplying diamonds in all qualities, sizes, and shapes, in both white and fancy varieties, to discriminating buyers around the world. Alpilex was founded in 1982 by Alexander Piller, who had been active in the diamond trade since 1918, but who came out of “retirement” at the age of 81 to create the company along with his two grandsons, Vincent Gabel and Marc Ender. Today, the company is run by Vincent and Marc, who are following in their grandfather’s tradition of supplying excellent goods and excellent customer service. Since July 1, 1999, this two-man business has been located on Antwerp’s prestigious diamond bourse.

“Our loyal customers include some of the most exclusive jewellery and diamond manufacturers worldwide,” says Vincent Gabel. “We also team up with our customers to create new markets, thereby letting us grow with them,” explains Marc Ender, adding, “We also act as buying agents and technical consultants (cutting, re-cutting, etc.) for our customers.” Ordering from Alpilex Diamond Manufacturing is easy and orders can be made by mail, fax, phone, or email, and all orders are guaranteed and returnable. Alpilex Diamond Manufacturing Pelikaanstraat 78, Bus 140, Room 605 - 2018 Antwerp, Belgium T: +32 (0)3 233 9160 - F: +32 (0)3 225 1281 Email: alpilex@telenet.be

Alpilex Diamond MFG. BVBA Pelikaanstraat 78, Room 604-605, Box 140 2018 Antwerpen - Belgium Tel. +32 3 233 91 60 • Fax +32 3 225 12 81 alpilex@telenet.be

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SPOTLIGHT

BASELWORLD THE WORLD WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW Where Business begins and Trends are created.

Discovering innovations, pinpointing trends, and forging valuable personal contacts — BASELWORLD offers the ideal platform for all of these. The biggest and most important event globally in the watch and jewellery industry is being held from March 18 to 25, 2010 in Basel, Switzerland. The key players of the global watch and jewellery industry meet up once a year at BASELWORLD. Decision makers and eminent figures from the exhibitor companies, as well as buyers and the media, appreciate the unique business atmosphere that prevails at the World Watch and Jewellery Show. Over a total of eight days, about 2000 companies from the watch, jewellery, precious-stone and related sectors present their new products and the innovations of the year. Occupying a surface area of 160,000 square meters — in multi-storey stands in some cases — the exhibitors present impressive brand worlds at the topmost level, showcasing the full range of their knowhow and their enormous creativity at BASELWORLD. Attracting more than 90,000 visitors, BASELWORLD constitutes the biggest networking platform in the sector. It provides an opportunity to foster existing relationships and to forge new, personal contacts. Buyers from all over the world come here to gain an overview of everything that is on offer in the watch and jewellery industry. The outstanding importance of the event is borne out by the presence of 3,000 media representatives from all the different continents. Alongside the customary extensive range of products, the sophisticated infrastructure, and the professional services provided, there will also be a number of innovations awaiting the visitors. The unique atmosphere that prevails at this globally leading event constitutes a true experience for all guests: enjoy the exceptional ambiance at BASELWORLD and combine the fascinating world of watches and jewellery with business success. www.baselworld.com 58

MARKETPLACE

vicenzaoro

Choice

Woven leather men’s bracelet by Brosway.

Shows Positive Signs Gold and diamond flower pendant by Annamaria Cammilli.

When the final results were tallied, there was good reason for cautious optimism at this September’s “Choice,” the third in the trilogy of jewellery trade shows held in the historic Italian town of Vicenza. By Cynthia Unninayar

Pink gold and black diamond ring by Bonato.

“Tondo Cesari 2009” plate with 2,000 carats of gemstones, crafted by Milanese artist Bruto Pomodoro, on display in the Gem World section of Vicenzaoro Choice.

According to show management, the show’s final numbers exceeded all expectations during these difficult times for the Italian—and global—jewellery sector. The most positive sign was the 28 percent increase in buyers compared to the September 2008 event. The show registered an attendance of 9,413 from Italy and 4,257 from abroad, for a total of 13,670 buyers who came to see the products offered by some 1,400 exhibitors (75 percent Italian, 25 percent from around the world). “We are satisfied with the result,” commented Domenico Girardi, the General Manager of Fiera di Vicenza, “bearing in mind that the buyers at the September fair traditionally come from Italy, in particular, and from Europe, in general. These are the markets that order quantities ahead of the end-of-year festivities. Compared with Choice 2008, the European nations with the highest number of buyers this year included Spain (an increase of 7.4 percent), France (up 43 percent) and Germany (up 9.74 percent). The Greek presence was also highly significant.” Girardi added that, for confirmation of the reawakening of the sector, it would be necessary to wait for the performance of Vicenzaoro First, which will begin on January 16, 2010. With an emphasis on the Made in Italy label, Italian designers have been facing the challenges of the current economic downturn with determination, thanks to a wealth of new products, innovative marketing strategies, and new technologies. Yet, one of the main variables on which the sector’s performance depends is the price of gold. “In general, rather than the absolute value of the precious metal, it is its volatility that generates difficulty for production companies in managing their supplies and pricing,” explained Girardi.

Pearl and diamond rings by Yoko London/Euro Pearls. 60

“Infinity Ribbon” earrings in pink gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Io Si.

Design Directions The price and volatility in gold prices has led to an increased number of lightweight designs. New technologies permit jewellers to create innovative hollow and wire pieces, while laser cutting offers solutions for innovative open work. In this way, a bigger but stylish look can be obtained for a smaller price. Another consequence of the volatile gold market is the use of mixed media combining, for example, wood, leather, bronze, and multi-coloured titanium with diamonds and coloured gemstones to create original and contemporary styles. Silver has regained its royal status and has been adopted by many upmarket brands, which are creating fashionable designer collections in the white metal. In terms of style, the brands at Choice exhibited many design directions. Necklaces tended to be long, loopy, and layered, with lots of links. Stackable bangles came in a variety of colours and designs, but wide airy cuffs were also present. A perennial favourite, the hoop earring was seen in its pure round form as well as in modified shapes set with gemstones and diamonds. Also seen at this year’s Choice were the contrasts of sombre, less ostentatious pieces—recession oblige—with brighter more colourful pieces that symbolized renewed hope for the future. Jewellery featuring rough diamonds, textured designs, and organic and freeform shapes, as well as various uses of circles and ovals, were also in evidence. In terms of colour, many Italian designs incorporated gemstones, of all sorts and hues, into their creations, in gold, platinum, and silver. Quartz, citrine, amethyst, onyx, topaz, tourmaline, and agate were used in a wide variety of designs, while the more traditional emeralds, sapphires, and rubies were present in elegant and sophisticated models paired with the sparkle of white and fancy diamonds. Gem World and Glamroom For the first time, the fair dedicated a special Diamond, gemstone, section to gemstones. Called “Gem World,” this new and gold “Jaipur” bracelet by Marco area, established in cooperation with Assogemme Bicego. Association, grouped together a number of gem dealers from around Italy and the world who showcased a wide variety of colourful jewels. One of the star attractions was the special display of a large aluminium plate faced with quartzite, painted and decorated with a micro-mosaic of precious stones, which epitomized a marriage of jewellery and contemporary art. Organized by Italian gem dealer Cesari & Rinaldi, this work of art, entitled “Tondo Cesari 2009,” was crafted by Milanese artist Bruto Pomodoro. To create this jewellery art masterpiece, Pomodoro used a total of 2000 carats of gemstones. The stylized and colourful plate is valued at €400,000 (approximately $600,000). This year, also for the first time, Glamroom was held inside the main fair next to the prestigious Hall B1. Present were a number of local and

Flex-It bracelets in gold and gemstones by Fope.

Silver bracelet by Nuovegioie.

Gemstone and diamond “Ninfea” ring in pink gold by Favero.

“Royal Star” ruby earrings with diamonds, white gold, and a line of blackened rhodium by Picchiotti. 61

MARKETPLACE “Pomegranate” gold and diamond earrings by Nanis.

foreign designers and artists who presented a wide range of innovative and colourful products made in a variety of materials. Among them was Italian designer, Raffaella Mannelli, with her collection of stunning pieces made of polished black ebony and gold, while, at the other end of the colour spectrum, German brand Bastian displayed a selection of modern silver creations. In keeping with the recent move towards sustainable and ecofriendly jewellery, a new Italian company, EcoJewel, showcased its pieces made from precious, recycled materials (gold and silver from old jewellery and manufacturing scraps) and Eco-Gems (synthetic products from Switzerland with the same physical and chemical characteristics as natural stones). The company says that its activities have Zero Impact® on the environment, certified by LifeGate.

“Butterfly”pendant in sapphires, diamonds, and gold by Miiori/ Jacobs Jewelry.

Gioiello Italiano During the Choice event, the Italian Association of the Chambers of Commerce (Assicor) presented a project called Gioiello Italiano, a strategic integrated communications plan to support and enhance the entire Italian jewellery industry. This important initiative has two specific objectives: 1) to present a coordinated image that will promote the values of Italian-made jewellery in foreign markets, and 2) to create and design new promotional tools in order to stimulate jewellery sales in the domestic market. The next fair, Vicenzaoro First, will start January 16, 2010 as the jewellery industry continues to look for positive signs.

Diamond and gold “Daphne” earrings by Casato Roma.

“Magic Snakes” ring in diamonds and gold by Staurino.

e by Raffaella Mannelli.

Ebony and gold necklac

Earrings made from recycled silver by EcoJewel. 62

Silver pendants by Glamroom exhibitor Bastian.

www.inhorgenta.com

EMOTIONAL TIMES – CREATING MARKET VALUE MUNICH, 19 – 22 FEBRUARY 2010

37th International Trade Fair for Watches, Clocks, Jewellery, Precious Stones, Pearls and Technology ORGANISER: Messe München GmbH HOTLINE: (+49 89) 9 49-1 13 98 info@inhorgenta.de For trade visitors only.

SPOTLIGHT

Zooms in on good and innovative design From February 19 to 22, 2010 inhorgenta europe will once again open its doors at the New Munich Trade Fair; this edition marks the 37th year. Despite the difficult global economic conditions, visitors to the EU’s largest trade exposition for watches, jewellery, gemstones, pearls, and technology can look forward to another exciting show and an extensive product selection, as seen by the positive registration numbers. Close to 1,200 exhibitors from 45 countries will participate. In addition, like last year, Messe München GmbH expects approximately 30,000 international trade show visitors. These visiting industry professionals will be able to get up close and personal with the latest innovations in six halls spread over a total of 64,500 square meters of exhibition space at inhorgenta europe. Thanks to its early date, this exhibition is considered a key barometer for the future development of the demand for watches and jewellery for the entire year. The upcoming inhorgenta europe will focus on ”Design.” There will be special exhibitions, such as the famous Antwerp “Silver Museum Sterckshof” in Hall C2, where visitors will also find the new areas of “Design Porcelain” and “Silver Objects.” Furthermore, the hall has been redesigned, with a new concept for the “Designer Avenue.” A platform for the Innovation Award competition, the centre of the hall will host not one but two marketplaces. The goal is to further improve networking among jewellery creators, manufacturers, retailers, and customers. Armin Wittman, Exhibition Director of inhorgenta europe, underlines the significance and topicality of good design: “Today’s customer sets great store by the option of expressing one’s own personality with jewellery. Excellent design has become the pivotal point for jewellery retailing. Even traditional manufacturers are increasingly starting to combine their technical expertise with innovative design.” The topic of design has been one of inhorgenta europe’s particular strengths for a long time, and not just in the “Design Hall” C2, which has become an international hallmark for this exhibition. This platform is unique throughout the world for distinctive designer jewellery and jewellery design, where more than 300 exhibitors show their pieces over 10,000 square meters of exhibition space. The international jewellery scene is very familiar with the Innovation Award by inhorgenta europe, a competition showcasing the new generation of jewellery designers, presented annually since 2000. On the occasion of the award’s anniversary, there will be a “virtual exhibition” parallel to inhorgenta europe, with an online presentation of the award-winning pieces by jewellery designers from the last ten years. The Innovation Award has established itself as one of the world’s most important honours: close to 200 designers from all over the world are planning to enter the competition endowed with 2.000 in the anniversary year. The award will be presented in the categories Jewellery, Platinum, and Silver Objects. 64

Hall A1 at inhorgenta europe proves the exposition’s great expertise in the area of watches and clocks. Fashion and lifestyle watches, classic manufacturers or high-end, high-quality watches, as well as watch bands are found in this area. The central highlight of this hall is ”Brand Avenue,” where brands such as Casio, Fossil, Sector, Skagen, and many more will exhibit their products, including manufacturers such as Dugena under new management by Nova Tempora, or Esprit with the Marlox Company. Another company to return to inhorgenta europe is the Festina Group with its brands. In addition, the “Forum German Zeitgeist” will present an impressive exhibition by manufacturers of mechanical watches, among them many small, yet sophisticated watchmaking companies. Hall B1 hosts the Platinum Forum in an exclusive ambiance. This exclusive market segment has its own, unique platform in this area. More than 20 top manufacturers from all over the world present their collections. This hall is also the location for other manufacturers of particularly valuable jewellery, such as the Meister, Schoeffel, Frey Wille, or returning Niessing. Hall B1 also hosts estate jewellery. In addition, watch manufacturer Junghans will considerably increase the size of its booth in this hall. Hall B2 focuses on popular jewellery brands. Here is where the visitor will find such well-known companies as Pandora, Trollbeads, and Monomania, some with considerably enlarged booths. A new exhibitor in this area is renowned crystal jewellery manufacturer Swarovski. Hall C1 offers a comprehensive exhibition of gemstones and pearls. The trade show management expects more than 200 exhibitors, among them renowned names such as Groh & Ripp, Ph. Hahn Söhne, and Wild & Petsch from the gemstone segments, as well as Otto Blumenschein or Hashimaru from the pearl segment. Furthermore, visitors can look forward to the special exhibition “150 Years German Gemstone Museum,” featuring extraordinary specimens from the long precious stone history of the city of Idar-Oberstein. The gemstone design competition for newcomer talents “mineralART” will again be held, this time with the motto “Adventure Jasper.” Creative design with gemstones is also the central topic of the special exhibition ”Stone Matters” by the Universities of Trier (Germany) and Lappeenranta (Finland). Hall A2 will present key innovations from the technology sector. Experts from the areas of machining, tooling, inventory management software and security technology, as well as jewellery packaging, store design, display and packaging concepts will present their products and services. The multi-faceted side event program of inhorgenta europe offers practical seminars, panel discussions with high-calibre participants, and interesting special exhibitions. It is a definite must for any visiting industry professional. Topics include “Shop Design” and “Improving Sales – Tips and Tricks for Jewellers.” To complement the key topic of “Design,” the seminars include “Fashion and Jewellery – Trends 2010” and “Strategic Design – Industry and Retail Management for DemandOriented Business Operation.” All presentations are in German with simultaneous translation into English. For more information, please go to www.inhorgenta.com 65

INTERNET

Searching for Fine Jewellery on the Internet

Piaget’s “Limelight” earrings made of two round-cut aquamarines, two oval-cut aquamarines, two cushion-cut mint tourmalines, and two briolette green tourmalines.

Van Cleef & Arpels “Fairy” clip featuring a large aquamarine and other colored gemstones.

Finding information on just about anything has never been easier since the advent of the Internet. At its entry point are a number of search engines such as the very popular Google, which is utilized by more than one billion Internet users around the world, often on a daily basis. Every sector of the economy is affected by the World Wide Web, and this includes, of course, the jewellery industry. By Florent Bondoux, IC-Agency

Integrating the Internet into a company’s commercial policy has strategic advantages for all brands, and the jewellery sector is no exception, as Jean-Christophe Bédos, CEO of Boucheron, indicated in Business Montres & Joaillerie (July 2009): “Retail and the web are the best channels for attracting new clients.” Social networking websites such as Facebook—now the world’s fourth largest site with 250 million users around the globe—are also places where important interactions occur among individuals. Sixty percent of wealthy consumers in the United States are members of at least one social networking or community website such as Facebook or LinkedIn. One-third read blogs. A recent survey by Jewelers of America (JA) indicated that “jewellers went through a period of growth in Internet usage for their jewellery business, but the data shows that the Internet’s full potential is still not being capitalized on by many retail jewellers.” According to the same study, “28 percent of the respondents claimed that they use the Internet for promotion and sales, and 48 percent stated that they use it only for promotional purposes.” This means that 76 percent of the respondents use the Internet for their jewellery business in some way. As these numbers demonstrate, the Internet has become a supplementary sales channel, both direct and indirect. Today, before going into a store or making a jewellery purchase, a growing number of consumers are spending several hours on the Internet in search of information about a product as well as to compare prices. Importantly, they also seek out the opinions of other users in order to help make their final choice. This observation is even more understandable in periods of economic downturn where every dollar counts. New advertising opportunities Fortunately, the Internet is known for its measurability. Thus, the number of searches and sites visited by users can be tracked and analyzed in order to better understand the online behaviour of today’s consumers. Each keyword in a search engine leaves a trace, and it is possible to “listen” to conversations between Internet users regarding any particular brand. This offers a unique opportunity for a

INTERNET

brand’s management to adapt its strategy as a result of these findings, and thus to attract both a clientele ready to purchase a river of diamonds and a younger target audience looking for an engagement ring. This measurability is summed up by Philippe Maillard, publisher of Europa Star, “On the vast oceanic surface of the Internet, surfers crisscross in all directions but their paths can be traced from wave to wave. It is a little like a GPS satellite making a complete map of their travels.”

Cartier’s “Inde Mystérieuse” earrings featuring aquamarine, morganite, ruby, pink sapphire, peridot, mandarin garnet, amethyst, tsavorite, rubellite, and kunzite.

A look at fine jewellery online Using technological tools developed for the WorldWatchReport, IC-Agency, the leader in luxury digital marketing, has decoded online searches for some of the world’s most prestigious global jewellery brands. This report is available exclusively to the readers of International Jewellery. Internet searches carried out over the last twelve months were examined by IC Agency for eight brands—Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Chopard, Harry Winston, Piaget, Tiffany & Co, and Van Cleef & Arpels—in seven countries (China, Japan, United States, United Kingdom, Germany, Italy, and France). Information was gathered only for jewellery searches; other data relating to searches for these same brands’ perfumes and watches, for example, were excluded. Europe: uncontested leader in jewellery searches The four European countries combined accounted for 53 percent of searches, ahead of the United States. France had the most, with 15 percent of total searches, indicating that French consumers were most inclined to use the Internet to learn more about their favourite jewellery brands—Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard, and Cartier, all emblematic of French chic and savoir-faire. Chopard and its Palmes of the Cannes Festival, Cartier and its Foundation for Contemporary Art, and Van Cleef with its new “A Day in Paris” collection only serve to strengthen their francophone roots with consumers around the world. Elsewhere in Europe, German consumers seem to have a strong affinity for Bulgari and Tiffany, which received 19 percent and 28 percent, respectively, of total searches in that country. For Italian web users, Bulgari and Piaget are clearly the preferred brands. On the contrary, however, the relatively consistent share of searches coming from the United Kingdom—between 8 percent and 15 percent for all the brands—did not allow for specific trends to be determined for English consumers. These observations are even more interesting if we look at searches for watches. According to the WorldWatchReport, searches for Bulgari watches in Germany were less than those in the UK. It would thus seem that German consumers have a clear preference for the Italian brand’s jewellery products over its timepieces.

White and black diamond brooch in 18K white gold by Chanel.

A growing China overtakes Japan With five percent of total searches coming from China compared to three percent from Japan, the enormous potential growth of the Chinese market is obvious. Even though access to the Internet is relatively less developed, Chinese web users

T U C S O N

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INTERNET

“Happy Diamonds” heart pendant in 18K white gold and diamonds by Chopard.

Emerald, sapphire, and diamond necklace by Bvlgari.

still number about 300 million—approximately equal to the total population of the United States. Due to the vast expanse of China, and the multicultural diversity in the fast-growing affluent regions, it is difficult to draw up a standard profile of the typical Chinese consumer with regard to demand for luxury goods in general and jewellery in particular. Wealthy Chinese consumers are much younger than their foreign counterparts: 80 percent are under 45, compared to 30 percent in the United States and 19 percent in Japan. They are more interested in functionality and quality, yet they are also more apt to search for brand names rather than models and collections, mainly because of translation issues. Overall, they spend a large amount of time surfing the Internet. The American market in search of new life The most important single nation for online jewellery searches is the United States, with 37 percent of the total reflecting all brands combined. [As an aside, the search numbers for fine jewellery in this market differ markedly from those for luxury watches. According to the WorldWatchReport 2009, the USA accounts for 43 percent of the world’s watch searches.] In terms of jewellery, brands such as Harry Winston and Tiffany account for 74 percent and 48 percent, respectively, of searches originating in their country of origin. Encouraging domestic demand is obviously strategically important. In this context, what are some of the ways to stimulate growth in a nation where signs of the recession are still present? With a highly connected population, the American market seems to have all the prerequisites for successfully embracing innovations in digital marketing by luxury brands: ultra-targeting of online ad campaigns; surveillance of users’ opinions of brands; intelligent presence on new media such as Facebook; advanced multi-channel branding using brand ambassadors; and development of digital conversations on all official communications supports. There are as many avenues to explore online as there are opportunities to create new ways to communicate with current and future clients. The most agile and daring brands in the digital domain will have the competitive edge, which will strengthen their market share in the years to come. About IC-Agency

“Quatre” ring in white, rose, yellow and chocolate gold set with diamonds by Boucheron. 72

Created in 2000, IC-Agency is a leader in luxury digital marketing. Based in Europe (Switzerland) and in North America (Canada), IC-Agency provides its clients with services such as analysis, promotion and protection for their brands, products and services. Among IC-Agency's clients are many independent luxury brands, as well as brands belonging to groups such as Swatch, Richemont, LVMH, and PPR/Gucci. In partnership with Europa Star, IC-Agency releases each year at Baselworld the WorldWatchReport, a reference market study that deciphers queries entered into search engines throughout the Internet from millions of prospects for 25 luxury watch brands in seven key export markets. (www.ic-agency.com, www.worldwatchreport.com)

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Parque Joyero de Córdoba Córdoba has 500 years of jewellery history in addition to its architectural splendour.

Located in southern Spain, Córdoba is perhaps best known for being a World Heritage site, with its long and vibrant history and spectacular architecture. Yet, it is also known for its five-hundredyear old history in jewellery making. It is not surprising then that this Andalucían city is home to the unique Parque Joyero de Córdoba, an impressive complex that houses not only the largest concentration of jewellery and watch companies in Europe but also a modern jewellery school and a large exhibition centre, hosting the region’s major trade show, Joyacor. By Cynthia Unninayar

Parque Joyero is home to 129 companies.

Many jewellery and watch products are displayed in the entrance hallway to the Parque as well as in independent showrooms.

The Córdoba region is home to some 1,100 jewellery companies, ranging from small artisanal workshops to mid-sized enterprises to major brands, active primarily in gold and silver. Employing more than 12,000 people, the sector accounts for 43.7 percent of Córdoba’s total economy and represents 60 percent of Spain’s total jewellery production. Living up to its nickname as the jewellery capital of the nation, Córdoba has created a remarkable centre that groups together manufacturers and wholesalers who can take advantage of collaborative technology, shared security, a central business location, and showrooms. While similar models exist in a handful of other countries, Córdoba has taken this concept to another level.

Security for Parque Joyero’s 148 manufacturing units is very high. At left is Irene Trujillo López of Extenda (Trade Promotion Agency of Andalucía) with José Manuel Rodríguez-Carretero Márquez, the Parque’s assistant commercial director. 74

The Parque Joyero de Córdoba Unique in Europe, and even the world, Parque Joyero de Córdoba opened its doors in 1998 as a complex to house companies involved in the jewellery and watch sector as well as related industries and services. Today, 129 companies have space in the Parque, including 89 leading companies in the jewellery and watch sector, 21 in related activities (gemstones, pearls, machinery, metal production) and others in related or unrelated services (banking, sales, insurance, software, photography, couriers, etc.). All together, the facility employs more than 2,000 people. The 140,500 square-meter compound includes 148 manufacturing units in a mix of companies focused on jewellery and watches, including precious jewellery, costume jewellery, silverware, and watches. These firms range from wholesale manufacturers to private label firms to upmarket jewellery brands. The Parque also includes 8,300 square

Pedro Alvarez rivera, still working at the bench, created isual in 1963. now joined by his son, the factory is located in Parque Joyero, where it makes branded and unbranded karat gold and silver jewellery and findings.

Bird’s eye view of Parque Joyero de córdoba.

meters of commercial space divided into 202 commercial outlets, where both manufacturers and wholesalers display their products to visitors in a permanent showroom. Other showcases are located in the Parque’s entrance hall. of fJt, a maker of unbranded and private label jewellery, “Parque Joyero de Cordoba is an owner with a specialty of small traditional bells called Llamador de Angeles, innovative space that was designed to Jose Manuel Villafranca explains some of the equipment in his be the perfect location for all commercial factory at the Parque. relations between the manufacturers/wholesalers of jewellery, silverware, and watches and their customers,” explains José Manuel Rodríguez-Carretero Márquez, assistant commercial director for the Parque. “In just one convenient area open throughout the year, customers have access to a wide range of products from around 100 companies providing a high level of quality and service. Visiting firms have a global platform where they can create new and long-term commercial relationships and consolidate existing ones.” The management of Parque Joyero is not resting on its laurels, however, and it continues to develop its services. In 2007, a technician from RETA (Red de Espacios Tecnológicos de Andalucía) began working at the Parque as a consultant for the jewellery sector, advising about grants and technological development. In 2008, the Parque became the “Parque de Innovacion Empresarial” (Park for Enterprise Innovation), a term coined by the Andalucía regional government in acknowledgement of the Parque’s efforts in actively promoting innovation in the industry. With this new status, the Parque is implementing many new projects to bring more and better services to the established firms and visitors. (www.parquejoyero.es)

córdoba-based cresber is one of the major brands with a factory in Parque Joyero, producing branded upmarket gold and diamond jewellery.

studies at the jewellery school include computer modelling and prototype making in addition to artisanal techniques.

School of jewellery making and design One of the unique features of Parque Joyero, and one that sets it apart from other jewellery manufacturing/business complexes, is the jewellery school. Sponsored by the Regional Government of Andalusía (Junta de Andalucía), the Consorcio Escuela de Joyería de Cordoba offers complete and state-of-the-art education for students from Spain and around the world. It also has exchange programs to send students abroad for additional study. The program focuses on design and product development, artisanal fabrication, and industrial production. Courses include traditional techniques of design combined with cutting-edge technology using the latest software to refine designs and create prototypes. In addition to computers used in design and manufacturing, the school 75

industry focus is equipped with the latest equipment for the other processes involved in making jewellery, including the ability to cast platinum. Demand for admission is high but space is limited to 90 students per year, thus the selection process is rigorous. Candidates must pass a series of exams and interviews before being accepted into the two-year program. The school also works with local manufacturers that provide internships to the students. “The sector realizes the importance of design training and it supports us in a number of ways, including an internship program,” explains Julio Pastor Valverde, chief of student programs. While the two-year degree program is the main focus of the school, it also offers training to professionals who want to learn new skills or improve existing ones. Its technical office provides consulting services to the jewellery sector. (www.cejcordoba.com)

Rafael Rodriguez Aparicio, executive secretary of Joyacor standing next to the poster depicting the fair’s 25th anniversary.

José Armenta Tena, owner of ñdiseño, a brand making designer silver jewellery, at his stand at Joyacor.

Córdoba-based Diseños Josephine makes traditional jewellery in the Andalucía style, including large hair combs. 76

Joyacor Another facility that makes Parque Joyero unique is its large 30,000 squaremeter exhibition centre. Used for a variety of events, it also hosts Joyacor, the most important jewellery trade show in southern Spain and a key event for the Córdoba economy. Organized by the Córdoba Provincial Association of Goldsmiths, Silversmiths, and Watchmakers, the fair was created in 1984 as one of the main projects to promote the local jewellery industry. Over the last two and half decades, Joyacor has undergone many changes. During its first five years, it was held at Merced Palace, a beautiful setting but too small for the growing number of exhibitors. It then moved to two other venues before finding a permanent home in the large and modern exhibition centre in Parque Joyero. Traditionally held in March, this year’s show took place from November 12 to 16. Approximately 66 percent of Joyacor’s exhibitors are from Córdoba, while 19 percent come from other provinces in Spain (mostly Barcelona, Madrid, Granada, Seville, Bilbao, Malaga, and Valencia), with the remaining 15 percent from other countries in Europe. In terms of products, 68 percent are in gold or silver while 32 percent use other materials. “This year, Joyacor reached a milestone, its 25th anniversary,” proudly states Rafael Rodriguez Aparicio, executive secretary of the fair, “and it continues to grow, attracting a range of exhibitors from Spain and abroad.” The 2009 edition welcomed buyers from many countries in Europe, as well as Bolivia, Venezuela, Israel, Holland, and the United States. “Joyacor promotes the participation of small and medium companies,” adds Aparicio. “We also encourage innovation and design for the industry and the creation of new companies.” Among the products seen at this year’s Joyacor Joyacor holds a jewellery competition to encourage innovation. were the traditional designs of Andalusía, This silver decorated shoe was one of the entries. including elaborate hair combs, brooches, and ornate earrings with matching necklaces. While some of these designs were in silver and diamonds, others were made in base metal and cubic zirconia. Some filigree work was seen in jewellery, minaudières, and other decorations, although this trend seems to be fading. Plain gold and silver jewellery, mostly unbranded, made up the majority of the collections displayed, either plain or set with coloured gemstones. Most designs in gold and silver were intended for the mass market, while a few had more substantial and original pieces. (www.joyacor.es)

Michele Kwiat Siegel, Sheldon, Steven, Greg, Russell, and Lowell Kwiat

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2 0 1 0 i n t e r n a t i o n a l S H O W S & E X H I B ITION S C ALEN D AR INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY CHINA (IJC) Hong Kong (S.A.R) 05.01 – 08.01 2010 AMERICAN GEM EXPO Atlanta (USA) MACEF AUTUNNO / PRIMAVERA Milan (Italy) 15.01 - 18.01 2010 MODA SALONICA Thessaloniki (Greece) 16.01 - 18.01 2010 T-GOLD Vicenza (Italy) 16.01 - 21.01 2010 VICENZA ORO - FIRST Vicenza (Italy) 16.01 - 21.01 2010 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE (SIHH) Geneve (Switzerland) 18.01 - 22.01 2010 MIAMI BEACH ANTIQUE JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW Miami, FL (USA) 21.01 - 25.01 2010 GJIIE CHENNAI Chennai (India) 23.01 - 25.01 2010 ECLAT DE MODE - BIJORHCA Paris (France) 23.01 - 26.01 2010 IJT - INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO Tokyo (Japan) 27.01 - 30.01 2010 PRINT’OR Lyon (France) 31.01 - 02.02 2010 CENTURION Tucson (USA) 31.01 – 02.02 2010 AGTA GEM FAIR Tucson (USA) 02.02 – 07.02 2010 JUNWEX-PRO ST.PETERSBURG St. Petersburg (Russia) 03.02 - 07.02 2010 IBERJOYA Madrid (Spain) 04.02 - 08.02 2010 SEBIME - EUROBIJOUX & ACCESSORIES Madrid (Spain) 04.02 – 07.02 2010 JEWEX Izmir (Turkey) 04.02 – 07.02 2010 SPRING FAIR BIRMINGHAM Birmingham (UK) 07.02 - 11.02 2010 PALM BEACH JEWELRY & ANTIQUE SHOW Palm Beach, FL (USA) 12.02 - 16.02 2010 AMBIENTE Frankfurt (Germany) 12.02 – 16.02 2010 GOLD & JEWELLERY EXHIBITION Mishref (Kuwait) 15.02 - 21.02 2010 GOLD ISTANBUL Istanbul (Turkey) 18.02 – 21.02 2010 INHORGENTA EUROPE Munich ( Germany ) 19.02 - 22.02 2010 IIJS SIGNATURE GOA Goa (India) 19.02 - 22.02 2010 SIBJEWELRY Novosibirsk (Russia) 25.02 - 28.02 2010 BEAUTY MOLDOVA Chisinau (Moldova) 25.02 - 28.02 2010 BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR Bangkok (Thailand) 26.02 - 02.03 2010 JA NEW YORK WINTER SHOW New York, NY (USA) 28.02 - 02.03 2010 ELITEXPO Lviv (Ukraine) 04.03 - 07.03 2010 MILLIONARE Istanbul (Turkey) 04.03 - 07.03 2010 GOLDIST Istanbul (Turkey) 04.03 - 07.03 2010 CARAT Budapest (Hungary) 04.03 - 07.03 2010 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Hong Kong (HK) 05.03 - 09.03 2010 AMBERIF Gdansk (Polski) 1.03 – 13.03 2010 MIJF - MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) 12.03 - 15.03 2010 JAA AUSTRALIAN JEWELLEY FAIR Brisbane (Australia) 13.03 - 14.03 2010 ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Istanbul (Turkey) 13.03 -17.03 2010 MJSA EXPO NEW YORK New York, NY (USA) 14.03 - 16.03 2010 BASELWORLD Basel (Switzerland) 18.03 - 25.03 2010 MIDEAST WATCH & JEWELLERY SHOW Sharjah (UAE) 30.03 - 03.04 2010 PERU MODA Lima (Peru) 28.04 – 30.04 2010 MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL GOLD & JEWELLERY FAIR Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) 10.04 - 13.04 2010 OROAREZZO Arezzo (Italy) 10.04 – 13.04 2010

JEWEL FAIR KOREA Seoul (Korea South) 29.04 - 02.05 2010 MOSTRA EUROJÓIA Batalha (Portugal) 07.05 - 09.05 2010 JOAILLERIE SAUDI ARABIA Riyadh (Saudi Arabia) 09.05 - 12.05 2010 JEWELLER EXPO UKRAINE Kiev (Ukraine) 13.05 - 16.05 2010 IJK - INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY KOBE Kobe (Japan) 13.05 - 15.05 2010 SALON OF ACCESSORIES & FASHIONABLE ADORNMENTS Kiev (Ukraine) 13.05 - 16.05 2010 JEWELLER MASH EXPO Kiev (Ukraine) 13.05 - 16.05 2010 NEW RUSSIAN STYLE Moscow (Russia) 13.05 - 16.05 2010 ABOUT J Venice (Italy) 19.05 - 21.05 2010 VICENZAORO - CHARM Vicenza (Italy) 22.05 – 26.05 2010 ZAK JEWELS EXPO Chennai (India) 25.06 – 28.06 2010 AGTA GEM FAIR Las Vegas (USA) 03.06 – 07.06 2010 LUXURY & PREMIERE Las Vegas, NV (USA) 01.06 - 03.06 2010 COUTURE Las Vegas, NV (USA) 03.06 - 07.06 2010 THE JCK SHOW – LAS VEGAS Las Vegas, NV (USA) 04.06 - 07.06 2010 EPHJ Lausanne (Switzerland) 08.06 - 11.06 2010 HYDERABAD JEWELLERY, PEARL & GEM FAIR Hyderabad (India) 18.06 - 20.06 2010 CWJF - CHINA WATCH JEWELLERY & GIFT FAIR Shenzhen (China) 01.07 – 04.07 2010 IIJS MUMBAI Mumbai (India) 19.07 – 23.07 2010 JOAILLERIE LIBAN Beirut (Lebanon) 20.07 – 23.07 2010 JA NEW YORK SUMMER SHOW New York, NY (USA) 25.07 - 28.07.2010 JOVELLA Tel Aviv (Israel) 06.07 - 07.07 2010 IIJS - INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Mumbai (India) 19.08 – 23.08 2010 IJF - JAA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR Sydney (Australia) 29.08 - 31.08 2010 ORHOPA Paris (France) Sept. 2010 (TBD) JAPAN JEWELLERY FAIR Tokio (Japan) 01.09 – 03.09 2010 MACEF Milan (Italy) 03.09 – 06.09 2010 MIDORA LEIPZIG Leipzig (Germany) 04.09 - 06.09 2010 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON London (UK) 05.09 - 08.09 2010 JUNWEX MOSCOW Moscow (Russia) 11.09 - 16.09 2010 VICENZA ORO - CHOICE Vicenza (Italy) 11.09 – 15.09 2010 PORTOJÓIA Porto (Portugal) 22.09 - 26.09 2010 MILLIONAIRE FAIR Antwerp (Belgium) 23.09 – 26.09 2010 WATCHES & JEWELLERY - HODINY A KLENOTY Prague (Czech Republic) 29.09 - 02.10 2010 INTERGEM Idar-Oberstein (Germany) 01.10 – 04.10 2010 VALENZA GIOIELLI Valenza (Italy) Oct. 2010 (TBD) ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Istanbul (Turkey) 09.10 – 12.10 2010 KOSMIMA Thessaloniki (Greece) 22.10 - 25.10 2010 JA NEW YORK DELIVERY SHOW New York, NY (USA) 24.10 - 26.10.2010 INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY DUBAI Dubai (UAE) Nov. 2010 (TBD) TOP MARQUES - SHANGHAI Shanghai (China) Nov. 2010 (TBD) WATCHES & JEWELS Bratislava (Slovakia) 04.11 - 07.11 2010 MILLIONAIRE UKRAINE Kiev (Ukraine) 04.11 - 06.11 2010 FACET Colombo (Sri Lanka) 08.09 – 11.09. 2010 GEM EXHIBITION Tampere (Finland) 19.11 - 21.11 2010 JEWELLERY ARABIA Manama (Bahrain) 23.11 - 27.11 2010

This list has been prepared with information available at the end of December 2009, however, before planning to attend one of these shows, it is advisable to verify the dates and place with the individual fair organizers. A good source for checking dates and place of international shows in the industry is the following website: www.eventseye.com

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editorial & advertisers index A AcP/Quadamas 50 AGTA Tucson 71 Al Coro 44 Alberian & Aulde 16 Alpilex 56, 57 Andrea Daub 46 Andreoli 21, 29 Annamaria Cammilli 60 Antonini 36, 49 Assael C1, 6, 7 Autore 14, 34 B B.Smith/Zalemark 26, 34, 39 Bachet 46 Badgley Mischka/Zalemark 26, 27, 38, 51 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 66, 67 Bapalal Keshavlal 22, 30, 31, 33, 43 BaselWorld 58, 59 Bastian 62 Bellari 41 Benchmark 50 Bergio 16 Bielka 36 Bonato 60 Boucheron 72 Breguet 46 Breuning 50 Brosway 60 Brumani 40 Brüner 33, 35 Bvlgari 72 C Calgaro 12, 48 California Designs 39 Carla Amorim 44 Carrera y Carrera 32, 47 Cartier 70 Casato 23, 36, 49, 62 Chad Allison 42 Chamilia 22 Chanel 70 Chimento 42, 46, 49 Chopard 72 Christian Bauer 51 Christian Tse 41 CliQ 9 Color Story 41 Comete 43 Constantin Wild 35 Cresber 74 D Damiani 9, 35 Danielle 45 David Lin 36 De Grisogono 33, 40 Demeter/Zalemark 26, 27

Diamond Shadows 45 Dior 20 Diseños Josephine 76 E, F, G EcoJewel 62 Edward Mirell 47 Elena Votsi 40 Elke Berr 38, 40 Erica Courtney 32, 35 Eurostar 54, 55 Favero 45, 51, 61 Fiamma 32 Fope 47, 61 Forum Design 39 FR Hueb 32, 43 Fred Leighton 9 FS Designs 34 Garavelli 18 GIA 73 Giovanni Ferraris 37 Goldesign 37 Green G 40 Gumuchian 3, 13, 42, 50 Gurhan 9 H, I, J, K, L Halia 22 IBGM/Ginga 17 IIJS Signature Show 69 Inhorgenta 63, 64, 65 IoSi 61 Ivanka Trump Jewelry 8 Jack Abraham 38 Jacobs Jewelry 34 James Kaya 51 Jewelers Mutual 74 Jewellery Theatre 18, 33, 44 Jewelmer 16 Joia 43 Judith Ripka 47 Kirk Kara 51 Kuwayama 9 Kwiat 8 Lagos 20 Le Sibille 49 Le Vian 9 Leo Pizzo 42 Lovemark 50 Luca Carati 45 Luxury Jewels 24 79 M, N MaeVona 50 Magerit 20 Magie Preziose 33 Makur 41 Manoel Bernardes 18 Marco Bicego 61 Mathon Paris 12, 37, 40 Mattia Cielo 38, 48 Maya Jewels 20

Continued on

www.CIJintl.com

Miiori/Jacob’s Jewelry 62 Mimi 41 MVee 45 Nanis 43, 49, 62 Natalie K 34 ñdiseño 76 Neil Lane 9 Nina Ricci 42 Nina Runsdorf 14 Ninetto Terzano 48 Noah 45 Novell Design Studio 50 Nuovegioie 61 O, P, Q, R Orianne Collins 43 OroArezzo C3 Palmiero C2, 49, 52 Pamela Froman 39 Pandora 22 Patek Philippe 47 Paula Crevoshay 12 Peter Storm 51 Piaget 68 Picchiotti 44, 61 Preziose 42 Raffaella Mannelli 62 Rahaminov Diamonds 35 Ramon 16, 24, 25, 32, 45 Rebecca 8, 10, 11, 14 Rhonda Faber Green 9, 44 Rina Limor 14 Roberto Coin 22, 41 Rodney Rayner 18, 32, 39 Rosato 15, 16, 22 Rosy Blue 53 Royal Asscher 51 S, T Sabido & Basteris 20

Salvini 43 Sandra Bérété 8 Scenario 22 Schoeffel 44 Scott Kay 14, 51 Sethi Couture 36 Seventeen/ Zalemark 26 Staurino 39, 49, 62 Stephen Webster 20, 38 Steven Kretchmer Designs 47 Stuller 46 Suna Bros. 37 Swarovski Enlightened 43 Talento Joias 35 Tamara Comolli 37 Tamir Designs 37 The Fifth Season 28, C4 Tiffany 68 Tiffany Kunz 18 Toby Pomeroy 18 Trésor 22 Tschetter Studio 14 U, V Utopia 37 Valente Valente 19, 35, 49 Van Cleef & Arpels 46, 68 Vancox 43 Vianna 5, 12, 33, 39 Victor Mayer 12, 47 W, X, Y, Z Waskoll 39 Wolf Designs 41 Yoko London/Euro Pearls 60 Zalemark 26, 27, 34, 38, 39, 51 Zeira 38 Zorab 8 Zydo 36, 48

Afrika Collection