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EU R
ON
ITI ED AL OB GL
3
2017
T of et EN ze rk ES l si ma PR ea ss r i e w Th e S th
Chapter
1
EUROPE N°342 & INTERNATIONAL N°395 Two folios – Not sold separately
LESSONS OF
VOLUME BRANDS
We shed some light on the watchmakers who produce the vast majority of the 1.2 billion watches manufactured every year worldwide.
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06
FOLLOW THE SIGNS:
CASE STUDIES & INTERVIEWS They adorn the wrists of many: what can we learn from brands such as Swatch, Fossil, Guess, Timex, Hugo Boss or the pioneer of the fashion watch Gucci?
28
PAST PRESENT FUTURE
58
THE TRUE SIZE OF THE SWISS MARKET Everything you always wanted to know about the Swiss watch trade: a recent survey lifts the veil on this crucial market for the industry.
50 54
“THE WINNERS ARE INDEPENDENT HIGH-END BRANDS” Interview with René Weber on the latest Vontobel watch report.
DEALING WITH PROTECTIONISM Has protectionism been globalised too? And does watchmaking have the wherewithal to fight back?
SUBSCRIBE TO EUROPA STAR MAGAZINE www.europastar.com/subscribe | SUBSCRIBE TO THE WEEKLY NEWSLETTER www.europastar.com/newsletter | CHAIRMAN Philippe Maillard PUBLISHER Serge Maillard EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Pierre Maillard CONCEPTION & DESIGN Serge Maillard, Pierre Maillard, Alexis Sgouridis PUBLISHING / MARKETING / CIRCULATION Nathalie Glattfelder, Marianne Bechtel/Bab-Consulting, Jocelyne Bailly, Véronique Zorzi BUSINESS MANAGER Catherine Giloux MAGAZINES Europa Star Global (Europe & International) | USA | China | Première - Switzerland | Bulletin d’informations | Eurotec EUROPA STAR HBM SA Route des Acacias 25, CH-1227 Geneva - Switzerland, Tel +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, contact@europastar.com Copyright 2017 EUROPA STAR | All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of Europa Star HBM SA Geneva. The statements and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not necessarily Europa Star. Subscription service | Europa Star Time.Business & Time.Keeper | 5 issues | Worldwide airmail delivery CHF 90 | Subscription orders via: europastar.com/subscribe | Enquiries: contact@europastar.com ISSN 2504-4591 | www.europastar.com |
The New Europa Star All about watches… On sale now www.europastar.com/subscribe
COVER STORY
CARL F. BUCHERER, UNDER THE SIGN OF THE MANTA RAY Spotlight on the latest offering by the Swiss watch manufacturer, the Patravi ScubaTec Manta Trust.
PARAPHERNALIA
JEAN-MARC WIEDERRECHT Continually forgetting in order to start afresh…
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T AP CH
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OUR COVER
CARL F. BUCHERER PATRAVI SCUBATEC MANTA TRUST Elegant and mysterious: Carl F. Bucherer
TECHNOLOGY
QUARTZ: THE MOMENT OF TRUTH Once a pioneer, yet now decidedly run-of-the-mill, the quartz movement is approaching a crucial point in its history.
16
is launching a limited-edition timepiece dedicated to the Manta Trust, a charity active in the conservation of manta rays. Each watch is one of a kind: a unique engraving on the back of the case depicts the pattern on the underside of a specific individual manta ray. And its sales will help finance an entirely new kind of research expedition.
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PORTFOLIO
PORTRAIT
WRIST JEWELLERY Our selection of the most beautiful jewellery timepieces, or ”Swiss wrist jewelry”, as Americans call it.
XVINCENT CALABRESE The Neapolitan wanderer.
82
INDUSTRY
THE CLASP It says a lot about your watch.
76
MATERIALS
XWOODEN WATCHES Some watch brands have specialised in using wood to create timepieces. An introduction.
64 HISTORY
XWATCH AUCTIONS: THREE DECADES OF A LEGEND
60
INTERNET
52
DIGITAL BESPOKE More and more luxury brands are offering online customisation, but each in their own different way.
TRENDS
JEWELLERY AND THE NEW WAYS OF WEARING IT Now jewellery is everywhere, popularly occupying every square inch of our bodies.
PART I
SUBSCRIBE TO EUROPA STAR MAGAZINE www.europastar.com/subscribe | SUBSCRIBE TO THE WEEKLY NEWSLETTER www.europastar.com/newsletter | CHAIRMAN Philippe Maillard PUBLISHER Serge Maillard EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Pierre Maillard CONCEPTION & DESIGN Serge Maillard, Pierre Maillard, Alexis Sgouridis PUBLISHING / MARKETING / CIRCULATION Nathalie Glattfelder, Marianne Bechtel/Bab-Consulting, Jocelyne Bailly, Véronique Zorzi BUSINESS MANAGER Catherine Giloux MAGAZINES Europa Star Global (Europe & International) | USA | China | Première - Switzerland | Bulletin d’informations | Eurotec EUROPA STAR HBM SA Route des Acacias 25, CH-1227 Geneva - Switzerland, Tel +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, contact@europastar.com Copyright 2017 EUROPA STAR | All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of Europa Star HBM SA Geneva.
4
The statements and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not necessarily Europa Star. Subscription service |Europa Star Time.Business & Time.Keeper | 5 issues | Worldwide airmail delivery CHF 90 | Subscription orders via: europastar.com/subscribe | Enquiries: contact@europastar.com ISSN 2504-4591 | www.europastar.com |
The New Europa Star All about watches… On sale now www.europastar.com/subscribe