Mag GLIMPSE En

GLIMPSE SALON INTE RNATIONA L DE LA LING ERIE

CELEBRATION: a powerful social indicator WHEN LINGERIE SHOWS ITSELF IN A NEW LIGHT

GLIMPSE N°4 3

EDITORIAL

4

THE SPRINGTIME WARDROBE

By Jennifer Cuvillie, the style director of Le Bon Marché

6

THE MEANING OF PARTIES

By Benjamin Simmenauer, philosopher and professor at the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM)

8

THIS SEASON’S BRANDS

12

OUR LINGERIE ENCOUNTERS An encounter with 3 designers who are breaking the rules of lingerie

16

FESTIVE ADDRESSES IN PARIS before/ dinner/ after

2

EDITORIAL

For a long time, it was considered a given.

Then, it was swiftly removed.

Finally rediscovered after lockdown, a taste for celebration was savored with fresh joy.

This desire to go out, the joy of getting dressed up, the desire to have fun, dance and simply be together will mark the coming Spring.

This will be true in people’s minds, which have truly taken a while to leave the withdrawal of these pandemic months behind, but also symbolically within wardrobes this new season.

Sequins, bright colors, miniskirts, the return of underwear as outerwear and a silhouette infused with Nineties glamour, whose sexiness is synonymous with female empowerment.

In this new issue of Glimpse, we talk about this desire to go out again, the best places to celebrate in Paris, this Springtime wardrobe infused with optimism, and this lingerie that we now wear the way we want to.

Long live Springtime!

See you soon at the Salon International de la Lingerie

3

THE SPRINGTIME WARDROBE As seen by Jennifer Cuvillier THE STYLE DIRECTOR OF PARISIAN DEPARTMENT STORE LE BON MARCHÉ OFFERS HER ANALYSIS OF THE MAJOR SHAPE TRENDS FOR THE COMING SPRING, WITH ITS CELEBRATORY MOOD AND DRESSED-UP LINGERIE.

HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE THE OUTLINES OF THE SILHOUETTE FOR THIS COMING SPRING?

This Winter, collections highlighted a wardrobe for a sort of “Wonder Woman”, with a metallic, sequined trend that conveyed this desire to go out again and wear pieces with a stronger visual impact. This phenomenon will reach its peak next Summer with very bold colors such as yellows and oranges, alongside some uorescent tones that oscillate between pastel and acid bright. This strong graphic palette will be worn in a monochrome fashion, from head to toe, even down to the accessories, or by focusing on surprising combinations such as mauve contrasted with a brighter green. The other major theme that will dominate the coming Spring will be the outdoor trend, this desire to get outside, which is illustrated through nature-inspired colors and utilitarian materials that have a military in uence, such as khaki canvas trousers worn with a printed blouse and Pataugas-style boots.

WHAT DO YOU SEE YOUR CLIENTELE WANTING TO WEAR POST-COVID?

We clearly sense a desire to change up one’s wardrobe, to buy new things, to refresh one’s wardrobe or at least wear things differently. All special-occasion pieces, notably formal dresses, started selling well as soon as restrictions were lifted. Alongside the desire to keep the comfort aspect we all got used to during lockdown, there is an appetite for a more chic, feminine way of dressing. Hence, we’re seeing stronger shapes than the soft trousers we‘ve seen these past few seasons, and the return of stiletto heels to replace sneakers. In addition, we can also see this re ected in the trend for ultra-structured garments with clean lines that take an architected approach to clothing. Such is the case with pieces featuring beautiful cutouts that reveal certain parts of the body, such as a wrist, calf or ankle.

4

WILL THIS SUMMER OFFICIALLY ENSHRINE THE INNER/OUTERWEAR CROP TOP?

This Winter, underwear was focused on comfort, with a

These “summertime bras”, as I like to call them, are one

cozy feel that featured natural support, a layered mood and

of the big trends for the coming Summer and are part of

soft shades of beige and grey. For the post-Covid Springtime

the crop-top category we’ve been seeing for a few seasons

wardrobe, we see a desire to dress up again, to get back

now. This is a shape that offers a more structured look,

into a business-like wardrobe, to look good for going out,

which we find at both sports and luxury brands. The bra

but also to put lingerie, and, in particular, camisoles, in the

top allows for the use of a variety of materials and a mix of

spotlight again. With classic colors such as red and black,

colors, and it can be worn underneath a jacket.

but also brighter and bolder tones. This goes perfectly with the ultra-feminine silhouette we’ve seen on the runways.

SWEDISH STOCKINGS UNDRESS CODE

JENNIFER CUVILLER

THE COLLECTIONS WE’VE SEEN ON THE RUNWAY SEEM TO SHOW MORE AND MORE LINGERIE. WHAT ARE THE MAIN TRENDS IN THIS RESPECT?

5

LE SENS DE LA FÊTE As seen by Benjamin Simmenauer THIS PHILOSOPHER AND PROFESSOR AT THE INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE REVISITS THE SYMBOLISM OF PARTIES POST-PANDEMIC AND ANALYZES THE WAYS IT SHOWS UP IN UPCOMING READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTIONS.

BENJAMIN SIMMENAUER

WHAT PLACE DO PARTIES OCCUPY IN OUR POST-PANDEMIC SOCIETY? The lockdowns cut us off from nightlife for the past yearand-a-half. Going out doesn’t seem like a given anymore.

It was something commonplace, but now it has become exceptional, so we want to enjoy it as much as possible.

With a certain nostalgia, we’re looking to rediscover this kind of carefree attitude. That being said, people are still cautious about getting together again. Sometimes, it even seems like a transgressive act to go out. It’s rather contradictory, but we’re doing it both more carefully and more intensely.

SOME PEOPLE HAVE REFERRED TO A CERTAIN SURGE OF EMOTION AND ENERGY, LIKE DURING THE ROARING TWENTIES THAT CAME AFTER THE GREAT WAR. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THIS? I don’t have a sense that we’re seeing the same type of frenzy that occurred after the War or after a serious crisis. Society in general seems more convalescent than electrified. When we talk about having fun, there’s also this idea of freedom of movement, this ability to travel, which is yet to fully happen, with health pass requirements and some borders that remain closed. The overall atmosphere is one that has not fully emerged from gloom, contrary to what we’ve seen at recent, extremely enthusiastic fashion shows. I have the impression that the optimistic projections of the fashion world are a bit premature.

6

THIS PAST YEAR HAS ENSHRINED COMFORTWEAR IN OUR CULTURE. HOW HAS THE NEW SILHOUETTE TAKEN THIS ASPECT INTO ACCOUNT?

We’re seeing a cultural shift, with increasingly casual garments. We’re not prepared to give up the comfort we got used to during lockdown. And so, the Spring/Summer 2022 collections re ect a merging of this desire for coziness with a more celebratory mood, hence the emergence of a new wardrobe that offers a combination of soft jogging suits and eveningwear that now adapts to our every move with exible comfort.

IN THIS NEW FASHION CONTEXT, DOES LINGERIE SEEM TO BE STRUTTING ITS STUFF AGAIN? Collections have highlighted the unbridled sexuality of the 2000s, with references to an objecti ed female archetype, yet which doesn’t have the same meaning at all twenty years later. We’re seeing a feminist reappropriation of sexualized apparel, especially since these ideas come from female designers. Visible lingerie, and high cuts or cutouts that reveal the body...What does this reappearance mean? It signi es designers’ desire to promote celebration, freedom and sensuality, but also to offer an antidote to doom and gloom.

SEQUINS, GOLD, EVENINGWEAR...WHY IS FASHION SO KEEN ON THIS DESIRE TO GO OUT AND CELEBRATE? It’s an industry that feeds on appearances, which means occasions to get dressed up. Therefore, it encourages us to go out by showing partylike scenarios, because if it sticks to a wardrobe for Zoom meetings at home, it loses all meaning. On the consumer side, this dressier wardrobe reminds us of this desire for a reawakening, a desire to reconnect with a more celebratory way of life that’s simply more enjoyable. It remains to be seen if we can still do it, because, at the same time, we can also see an opposing movement toward self-re ection, prudence and mutual distrust. It’s like the buzz around Kanye West’s balaclava, or the success of the Net ix series Squid Game, re ecting a society that still has trouble sharing or being

O PA A K

positive.

7

CALIDA

8 FITIA

SELIA RICHWOOD

CHANTELLE

K H AV E N

ARIANE DELARUE

SKINSWEAR

AT E L I E R A M O U R

THE UNDERARGUMENT

EMBODY

9

PLUTO

LE PETIT TROU

NAMUR

MEILA

SIMONE PERELE

10

C H A N TA L T H O M A S S

S C H O S TA L

LOV E O N T H E S N OW S T R AW B E R R Y S E C R E T

MEY

LAUREN PERRIN

YDUNN

N É N É S PA R I S

CCDK

11

AN ENCOUNTER WITH 3 DESIGNERS WHO ARE BREAKING THE RULES OF LINGERIE YDUNN

Ydunn SOMEWHERE BETWEEN LOUNGEWEAR AND READYTO-WEAR, THIS HIGH-END BRAND OFFERS LUXURIOUS PAJAMAS AND SILK KIMONOS IN ELABORATE PRINTS. ITS CO-FOUNDER JAKUB MUCHA EXPLAINS THIS INNERWEAR/ OUTERWEAR WA R D R O B E CONCEPT.

HOW DO YOU ENVISION YOUR COLLECTIONS, WHICH CAN BE WORN AT HOME OR OUT ON THE TOWN? During successive lockdowns, people were dressing differently. We committed to offering comfortable loungewear pieces that were also elegant and feminine,

ARE WE GETTING BACK TO A CELEBRATORY WARDROBE POST-COVID?

in bold styles that featured bright colors and lively prints.

By flirting with near-ready-to-wear, our pieces are just as perfect at home as for cocktails with friends. There’s no longer, on the one hand, innerwear, and on the other,

People have been traumatized by the pandemic. Today, they want to live more intensely, go out and have fun. The pandemic has been like life in wartime, obviously, but this

ready-to-wear; it’s all connected in a fluid manner. And, increasingly, lingerie brands are designing their collections with this idea in mind.

post-Covid period has some similarities to the boom period of the Roaring Twenties. This is reflected even in fashion, with an upcoming season marked by sequins, bright color, etc., symbolic of a desire to return to life the way it was before. And with the wardrobe to match.

IS THIS LINGERIE MOOD PART OF WHAT DEFINES “SEXY” TODAY? These are notions that evolve over time and have been opening up to new ideas in recent times. We’re deconstructing images of the past to create new ways to be feminine, sexy and powerful. This is emerging on fashion runways, as well as on the street, where you can wear things you never would have thought possible just a few years ago.

People are no longer afraid of sex appeal and of being comfortable in their skin, and now, they’re dressing up without thinking about what others think. They’re just doing it the way they want to.

12

Le Petit Trou

WHAT WILL IT BE LIKE TO GO OUT IN THIS POST-COVID ERA?

WHAT IS LINGERIE’S PLACE IN THIS NEW CELEBRATORY WARDROBE?

IS UNDERWEAR BECOMING VISIBLE ON THE STREETS ONCE AGAIN, AS WE’VE SEEN A LOT ON THE FASHION RUNWAYS?

We don’t hug or kiss each other like before.

Sometimes, it gives you a boost of

But, on the other hand, we have a greater

confidence, and other times, it’s just

appreciation for going out and being with

beautiful to look at. Our approach has

We’re increasingly showing off our lingerie,

others. What we used to consider a given,

significantly changed these past few years.

which is a sign that we feel more comfortable

like partying or just going out for dinner,

On the fashion runways, and on the streets,

with our bodies and that we accept them

now seems like something special and truly

we see that lingerie is an integral part of an

as they are. I can see this on social media,

celebratory!

outfit. It’s no longer just simple pieces on

where I pay close attention to the numerous

the one hand, and ultra-sexy ones on the

ways that clients make pieces their own.

other, for special occasions. Now, we’re

A bra worn under a blazer is no longer

focused on something that’s special, yet is

shocking, especially since designers like

easy to wear for everyday life.

Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent are including increasing amounts of lingerie in their collections. This is one way to be sexy, but, in the end, it’s not so much about clothing. What really counts is being

YDUNN

yourself and having confidence in yourself.

LE PETIT TROU

13

LE PETIT TROU

FOUNDED IN 2013 BY POLISH DESIGNER ZUZANNA KUCZYŃSKA, THIS BRAND OFFERS COLLECTIONS THAT MIX MINIMALISM AND SENSUALITY, WITH ITS STRUCTURED AND SEE-THROUGH EFFECTS. ITS FOUNDER TALKS TO US ABOUT HER INTERPRETATION OF CELEBRATION.

Love on the snow IN 2018, JOANNA KOŁODZIEJCZAK LAUNCHED THIS BRAND, FASCINATED AS SHE WAS WITH UTILITARIAN DESIGN AND FUNCTIONAL MATERIALS LIKE MERINO WOOL AND CALAIS LACE FOR HER WINTER COLLECTIONS, AND MICROMODAL AND SILK FOR SUMMER. SHE TELLS US HOW HER LINGERIE CAN BE WORN EITHER INSIDE OR OUT.

WHAT ROLE DOES LINGERIE PLAY IN THIS NEW SEXY, ULTRA-CONFIDENT SILHOUETTE?

HOW HAS LINGERIE CHANGED OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS? We’re now seeing the arrival on scene of several independent

Nothing is sexier than self-confidence. And lingerie can,

brands that offer new types of products. This provides a

precisely, make you feel good in several ways: It can keep

fantastic opportunity to find the right lingerie for any

you warm and keep you looking slim and confident for

occasion, such as athleisure and basics for working from

yourself and in the eyes of others. This is an essential point

home, including wire-free bras, and then, these see-through

in our collections because we have always considered the

pieces or bodysuits that are inspired by erotic lingerie yet

sexy side to be as important as the functional side, as

are supremely comfortable.

reflected in our slogan #warmisthenewsexy.

I’ve always been fascinated by useful materials, natural fibers, smart fabrics and the way they can make our lives

LOV E O N T H E S N OW

better. Our warm underwear has gotten me to love winter!

IS UNDERWEAR EMERGING TO SHOW ITSELF MORE CONFIDENTLY ON THE STREETS? This has always been the case for our products, mainly because our merino wool pieces with their thermal properties can also be worn outside; it all depends how they’re accessorized. Bras worn as tops have remained a major trend over the past two seasons. The same goes for lace nighties and camisoles designed as nightwear, but which are now worn in the daytime under a blazer or cardigan. Our merino wool and Calais lace pieces are selling like hotcakes. Our products are at a higher price point, but they’re multifunctional, so this is a great selling point!

LOV E O N T H E S N OW

14

S C H O S TA L

A different kind of evening in pajamas with Schostal FOUNDED IN ROME IN 1870, THIS FASHION HOUSE HAS BEEN COMMITTED TO DESIGNING A CHIC NIGHTTIME WARDROBE FOR OVER A CENTURY-AND-A-HALF AND IS FAVORED BY THE LIKES OF THE AGNELLI FAMILY AND AMERICAN FILM DIRECTOR WES ANDERSON. THEIR MANAGING DIRECTOR ANDREW BLOCH FIORELLI REVEALS THE NEW WAY TO WEAR PAJAMAS.

S C H O S TA L

HOW DID THE MAISON SCHOSTAL STORY BEGIN? Two Viennese brothers, Leopoldo and Guglielmo, opened the first shop in Rome in 1870.

Lazzaro Bloch, a close friend of theirs, quickly became its manager, then its director during the First World War period. His son Giorgio preserved the spirit of the brand. And today, I’m part of the fourth generation to carry on the same passion and determination.

HAS COVID CAUSED YOU TO CHANGE THE LOOK OF YOUR COLLECTIONS? We obviously continue to design the perfect pajamas for gentlemen, but after the first lockdown, we decided to create something new to brighten up the everyday lives of our clients who were stuck at home. We shook up our old habits by adding touches of color to our collection, with fabrics featuring bright shades, unique prints, and, particularly, strong visual contrasts, which are unexpected in pajamas. Like fuchsia with apple green, or orange-

HOW HAVE PAJAMAS BECOME PART OF OUR DAYTIME WARDROBES?

and-green stripes with pale pink…It was a risky proposition, but our clients have loved it.

We now take care to get dressed when we’re staying at home, and we no longer hesitate to wear these pieces when we’re out and about. We’ve noticed that our clients travel, go out to dinner and run around town while wearing our products. A pajama shirt with the sleeves rolled up can, for example, be worn outside, with a pair of jeans. The most important thing is to choose your accessories carefully to avoid looking like you just got out of bed. Adding a scarf, belt, bag or a pair of heels can easily transform a loungewear look into a dressier silhouette.

15

FESTIVE ADDRESSES Où passer la soirée à Paris

1. Limbar (Cheval Blanc) 8 quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris. @limbar.paris

BEFORE

2. Le Syndicat 51 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris. @lesyndicat 3. Little Red Door 60 rue Charlot, 75003 Paris. @littlereddoorparis 4. Coyo Taco Tequila Club 128 rue Réaumur, 75002 Paris. @coyotaco

1-

2-

3-

16

4-

1-

AFTER 1. 1905 25 rue Beautreillis, 75004 Paris. @1905paris 2. Tzantza Paris 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001 Paris. @tzantza.paris 3. Soho House 45 rue la Bruyère, 75009 Paris. @sohohouse 4. Raspoutine 58 rue de Bassano, 75008 Paris. @raspoutine.paris

3-

5. Moloko 26 rue Pierre-Fontaine, 75009 Paris. @molokoparis 6. Manko Club 15 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris. @manko_club

2-

4-

5-

6-

17

1-

2-

3-

4-

56-

18

7-

8-

DINNER

9-

1. Forest, 11 avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris. @____f_o_r_e_s_t_____ 2. Bouillon République 39 boulevard du Temple, 75003 Paris. @bouillonlinsta 3. Clamato 80 rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris. @septimeparis 4. Amagat 23 villa Riberolle, 75020 Paris. @amagat_paris 5. Mimosa 2 place de la Concorde, 75008 Paris. @mimosarueroyale 6. Voyage (La Samaritaine) 9 rue de la Monnaie, 75001 Paris. @voyagesamaritaine 7. Dalia 93 rue Montmartre, 75002 Paris. @dalia.paris 8. Twenty-Two Club 8 rue de Montpensier, 75001 Paris. @twentytwoclubparis 9. Silencio des Prés 22 rue Guillaume Apollinaire, 75006 Paris. @silenciodespres

19

A C O M P L I M E N TA R Y I N V I TAT I O N U S I N G THE CODE

EXPOSEDFR EE @ salondelalingerie @expo_sed_paris

saloninternationaldelalingerie.com

20

exposedparis.com