PARADISE FOUND Discover double the bliss at these two luxurious island retreats
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’m an island aficionado, a chump for any floating landmass ringed by powdery white beaches and turquoise water. There’s nothing like lolling on an isolated patch of sand with exotic birds flying overhead, a breeze that never disappears and the sound of steel drums somewhere in the distance. Recently we escaped reality on Paradise Island. Since we couldn’t decide between two unique resorts, we spent a few days at each one.
The One&Only Ocean Club
Friends in-the-know who fre-
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quent the Caribbean raved about The One&Only Ocean Club on Paradise Island. The low-key, bi-level resort with just 105 rooms and three villas is spread out on 35 acres with three miles of unspoiled beach. And gorgeous terraced gardens that extend a quarter of a mile on seven levels. Never mind that the Bahamas are in the Atlantic, not the Caribbean, as most people think. Why quibble about semantics when the Bahamas have the same clear blue water, cerulean sky and pristine beaches? Even better, it has this remarkable resort with a wonderful
sense of place and a unique history. In 1939, a wealthy Swedish industrialist discovered what was then known as “Hogg Island” while on a world cruise aboard his private yacht. He bought the island, which he christened Shangri-La, and created a private estate on it. In 1959, he sold Shangri-La for $9.5 million to Huntington Hartford II, grandson of the founder of the Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company (A&P). Hartford’s first order of business was to change the island’s name to Paradise Island. He added a hotel, exclusive cottages and a golf course, and then dubbed the ex-
ESCAPES ESCAPES isting resort The Ocean Club. A proverbial playboy, Hartford hobnobbed with glamorous movie stars and New York socialites of that era. William Randolph Hearst, dukes, earls, ambassadors and a string of celebrities attended the grand opening in 1962. Hartford adored the property and continued to enhance it, spending a fortune on importing marble and bronze statues from Europe and expanding the elaborate gardens he modeled after Versailles. The garden’s centerpiece is a 12th century French Augustinian cloister, which was originally purchased in France by William Randolph Hearst and sold to Hartford. Today the cloister is a jaw-dropping backdrop for des-
tination weddings, birthdays and anniversaries. While the resort attracted jetsetting vacationers, Hartford preferred the role of host to that of hotel manager, resulting in a depletion of his fortune and the sale of the property in 1966. After a few more changes in ownership, in 1994, Kerzner International, a company that also owns the nearby megaresort, Atlantis, and other One&Only luxury hotels worldwide, purchased it. Our room is a knockout. Walls as white as chalk are offset by lustrous Brazilian cherry floors and a palette of coral, orange and blues in our British Colonial-inspired oceanfront room. Want a laptop to check
email? Just ask. The resort’s seamless attention to detail is reflected in Frette linens, a marble and mosaic bathroom with chin-deep tub and louvered doors that open to an oversized balcony. A butler offers to unpack our bags (we decline) but we gladly accept the champagne and chocolate-dipped strawberries that are delivered daily at 6 pm. In need of pampering, I head to the spa. Cocooned in a lush garden, I fall into a blissful trance before Jacqueline, my masseuse, delivers a pot of hot ginger tea for me to sip and fresh fruit to nibble in a space that’s far from an ordinary treatment “room.” I am in a private, secluded spa villa. Six pretty pink hibiscus flowers dance around my body in Continued on pg xx
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the warm bubbly water of my outdoor jacuzzi. Overhead, a Balinese woodcarving prevents even a sliver of sun from intruding. Ahh, paradise... No vacation is complete without golf and Tom Weiskopf designed a beaut—a 7,159-yard par 72 course with spectacular views of the Atlantic. (It’s consistently ranked one of the top five in the islands.) Five tee box choices mean a duffer like me can enjoy a round while my low handicapper husband is challenged. Weiskopf’s clever design even took the wind into consideration; it’s different on every hole. The sea must have inspired Weiskopf, too. Greens are as wavy as the nearby ocean. The cuisine in all three restaurants wakes up our taste buds. Sitting atop a white sand bluff overlooking the sea, Dune, the beachfront restaurant and bar, offers a heavenly place for a martini. French-Asian selections on the menu are the creation of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the legendary New York chef. The décor is stunning, too. Designed by French interior designer Christian Liaigre (he did Valentino’s apartment), the space is casually classy. The subtle blue illumination, oversized overhead lighting fixtures, contemporary music and mélange of cumin, coriander or cilantro aromas wafting from the open kitchen result in a feast for every sense. Our entrees—roasted grouper for me and mahi mahi crusted with nuts for my husband—are so scrumptious we want to order the same thing the next night. But that would mean we’d miss dining al fresco unXX
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ESCAPES ESCAPES der a canopy of stars at the romantic Courtyard Terrace where we are seated next to a reflecting pool surrounded by illuminated palm trees and order more Cabernet than we should. The ambiance and food are world class; it’s hard to beat the lobster with white asparagus. Even the golf club restaurant excites our palates. Memories of the light lemony dressing on my grilled tuna salad linger much longer than my suntan. We keep our eyes peeled. The place is a magnet for celebs and other high-end clientele. Word is that Oprah and Sharon Stone were guests. But the discreet staff is mum when it comes to name dropping. Daniel Craig may be the one exception. Scenes in Casino Royale, the last James Bond film, were filmed here. But a stay at The Ocean Club isn’t about ogling the stars; it’s about sharing their lifestyle. There’s no glitz. No gimmicks. Just a tranquil atmosphere in which to enjoy the island at its most refined. After three gloriously serene days, we’re ready for a change of pace. And we get it.
The Cove
We love The Cove for what The Ocean Club lacks: buzz. Thirtysomething women in short skirts and six-inch high heels wait for a taxi at the entry, which is the polar, or in this case, the tropical opposite of the Ocean Club where the Lacosteshirt crowd prevails. We ooh and aah our way through a series of open air walkways, casContinued on pg xx
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For more info:
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cading waterfalls and lagoons filled with exotic fish. Copper cylinders suspend from the entry’s 35-foot ceilings. White travertine marble fountains change colors depending on the time of day. Walls of bamboo, mosaic tile floors, mother-of-pearl counters and more orchids than a tropical rainforest vie for our attention as we meander to the reception desk for the Club Floor where perks include complimentary breakfast and evening cocktails in a private lounge. No need to sweet talk our way into a larger room with an ocean view. Every room in the hotel is a suite with a jaw-dropping view of the sea. The place exudes contemporary elegance without pretensions. While the 600-room Cove is part of the massive Atlantis complex, it’s set apart. A short complimentary shuttle ride transports us to the water slides, aquarium, dolphin experience and other attractions. Serenity may be the mantra at the Ocean Club, but at The Cove’s adults-only pool and adjacent 20 cabanas energy prevails thanks to a DJ playing contemporary music all day long. Persimmoncolored daybeds (some with canopies) are dotted alongside as well as in the pool itself, making an afternoon nap irresistible. When the sun goes down, Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill delivers heat with his spice rubbed Bahamian lobster tail and red chili-coconut sauce. Nobu provides an Asian alternative and a short walk takes us to Carmine’s, one of only three offshoots of this New York classic outside of the Big Apple. When we tire of the beach, pool and water sports, a stylish casino offers an entertaining diversion. With 1,000 machines and 100 table games, it is the largest in the Caribbean. The Las Vegas-ish design even includes several Dale Chihuly glass sculptures. Ahead by $100, we declare ourselves winners and call it a night. Two distinct resorts; both exude restorative powers. No wonder this place is called Paradise.
Mary Ann Treger is a freelance writer who regularly contributes to BC The Magazine.