Pick Your Pocket A pocket book by Eveline Keijser Gerrit Rietveld Academie 2011
14th century. One of the first pockets called pouch worn just below the waist as a bag outside of the garment.
Should the content of our pockets be visible? Over the years our pockets did not only change its shape dramatically, we could not decide whether to hide our pockets or have easy access to them. Starting with a bag hanging from a belt, to sewing the pocket secretly under our clothes after which women decided to start using the bag again. What do our pockets mean to us? Is it still the safest place to keep our valuables? Or do we need them to strike a pose? Either way, pockets nowadays sell a product. We need to be seen with our most precious belongings. We need pockets to polish our I Pod. Within my research I have examined the pocket thoroughly within its changing shape and appearance. A timeline has been made of illustration as seen on the picture beside.
15th century pouch worn outside of the garment on the waist level by women.
Pockets make posing easy.
16th century pouch worn outside of the garment on the waist level by men.
A very brief history of the pocket. To begin with, the definition of the word ‘pocket’ states that it is ‘a small baglike attachment’. The reason for this particular definition is that the pocket was not originally sewn into garments as it is today. In fact, the first pockets were actually small pouches that hung from the belt where one could carry valuables and coins. The word itself comes from the Anglo-Norman word pokete and traces its roots to the Germanic root word ‘bag’, which is like the Old English word pocca. Therefore, the definition makes sense. ‘Purse’ and ‘pocket’, incidentally, have the same root word, only one is plural and the other singular. In addition and worthy of note is the Scottish spor ran, which is that nifty purse worn at the front of the kilt in traditional wear. The word sporran itself comes from the old Irish word sparán, which traces its roots back to the Latin word bursa, or ‘purse’. The First Interior Pockets Since the pocket was on the outside of one’s clothing, it was unfortunately subject to thieves or, more appropriately, cut-purses. More cautious people realised that if they kept their purses inside their trousers1, it would deter the pickpockets by making the theft more difficult.
18th century pouch, often embroidered, worn by women underneath the apron in tear, oval or triangle shape.
But, there came a realisation: Although keeping one’s pouch inside of one’s clothes made it more difficult for thieves to get at the pouch, it also made it more difficult for the owner of the purse to get at the contents! And as the point of the purse in the first place was to make it easy to carry one’s money, making it impossible to get at without embarrassment was not the greatest of solutions. Imagine, there you are, in the common market, and you want to buy yourself an apple. In order to buy it you must drop your trousers and expose your buttocks to the entire marketplace! (Note: In that day and age, not only did people not have interior pockets, but they also did not wear undergarments!) The next step in the evolution of the pocket was what most people see them as today: a simple slit in the clothing. A slit cut into the side of your trousers (or by that time your skirt as well, as women have never been known for dropping their skirts in the marketplace... much) would enable you to reach into your purse with ease, while others would find it difficult to reach in without your knowledge and acquiescence. This development of the clothes slit caused a revolution in the shape and the angle of the opening in the purse, and it was around that time that they began to be called pockets.
1760-1775 pockets, also known as Side hoops. Worn by women round the waist.
I trust my pocket more then anything.
19th century waistcoat pocket with flaps.
1950 cargo pants pockets.
After interviewing several people about their pockets, it became clear that every person has a certain system in dividing the contents they carry with them. Even though it clearly differs which garment is used for the pockets, in general most people use the pockets for keeping safe their most precious belongings. Mostly we would be talking about keys, wallet, and phone. Females also often carry these objects in a bag. But if the ladies go for a good night out into town, you will find all personal belongings back in the pockets. Even the small watch pocket becomes useful at that point. Even though most people actually have no clue what this pocket is actually designed for. After all, we don’t carry around a pocket watch anymore. Remarkable is that in the interviews it became clear that the interviewees all said to always put certain objects in certain pockets. As you can see in table on the left page, this person has a clear preference in size of the pockets. And always uses particulair pockets for specific things.
20th century shirt pocket worn at breast height. Rounded pocket.
20th century shirt pocket worn at breast height. Flap pocket.
ACHTER
Laag +
KLEIN
ZIJ
VOOR
+
MIDDEL
+
GROOT
A
++
LEEG
VOL
++ LINKS
++ LOS
BYZONDER
A ONZICHTBAAR
+
RECHTS
++ VAST
+ + = Quantity, A=1
A
What is still unmentioned within this table, is the specific preferences in the system of using the pockets by this person. It is for great importance that the most precious valuables belonging to this person are always in the right side pocket. This being for strict practical reasons as we are talking about a left-handed person. Quoting from the interview; “ I, as a left handed person, use my left hand much more than my right, which means I will use my left pocket more frequent as well� Just because of safety reasons he does not want to take the risk of putting the valuables like a wallet or keys in the left pocket where the in and out going traffic of the hand will be greater then of that in the right pocket.
20th century jacket pocket worn just above waist. Slanted with flap.
A pocketless garment is useless.
Interview with Desiree van Regenmortel. What do you use your pockets for; Usually I use them to keep my money in, or keys. I also keep my public transport card in my pocket because then I can grab it quickly when checking in and out of the tram. Oh yeah, of coarse my cigarettes and lighter are in it as well, further more a lot of bits and pieces of paper. Wich pockets do you use most often? I usually don’t wear pants, mostly dresses and skirts, as they don’t have pockets I must say it will be the pockets of my coat I use most often. Most of the time everything is put into one single pocket. Do you have a preference in shape within pockets? I prefer pockets that at least will fit my whole hand in it. If I look at the shape or form I have to say I like pockets that are attached on the outside of garment. Do you sometimes use your pockets instead of a bag? Most of the times I will carry a bag but when I go out clubbing I prefer not to. Then I put my things I need into my pockets, like my ATM card. That usually stays in my right pocket. Did you ever find something back in your pockets? YES! I once found an amount of 60 Guilders back in my summer coat! I totally forgot about that after shopping the summer before. I also found a necklace back one time. Do you ever put something precious in your pocket? I carried a chestnut in my pocket for a long time, I heard one time it would help for rheumatism. A star sign stone has been in my pocket for a while too. And when I was younger I would always have crayons for street drawing in my pocket.
20th century jacket pocket worn just above waist. With gore.
“It is not helpful to help a friend by putting coins into his pockets, when he has got holes in his pockets.�
Elisabeth Bowen.
1950 Women’s jeans pockets.
20th century jacket pocket worn just above waist. Straight ticket.
Interview Mr. Amini. Have you ever carried something precious in your pocket? My catapult. As a young boy in Afghanistan my catapult meant everything to me. It was my most precious belonging. It was always with me in my pocket. With my trousers hanging to one side I would walk past my father with pockets filled with marbles I had won. The sound that the marbles made betrayed me even though I tried to hide them in my pocket. What else did you use to carry in your pocket as a child? I always carried a little pocketknife. As I could not life without my catapult I had te be able to make a new one as soon as the other one broke. And I had a special pocket for nuts. As a kid it was very important to have the biggest pockets to look tough towards the other boys. How do you feel when you have your hands in your pockets? When I’m in the street or a crowded market place or something I feel like I have more privacy when I put my hands in my pockets. Sometimes I even put my hands in my pajama pockets when I’m lying in bed! As an artist you sometimes are very much criticized or attacked, when I think about that I feel like protecting my hands. I feel much safer like that. Hands are identity and when you don’t see them you can hide your identity. Men especially carry lots with them in their pockets, sometimes their whole fortune! Actually, come to think of it; The worst feeling in the world is when someone would put his or her hand in your pocket.
1950 Men’s jeans pockets.
You can never lose a pocket.
In my quest to find out what the smallest pocket in our jeans is used for I received some various answers;
Matches House key A spare $50 I put coins in it Coat ticket Condom pocket Thumb Wrapped gum Chopstick. Wedding ring Pocketknife. Tampon Pocket watch Guitar picks Contact lens case A can of snuff Insulin pump Extra hair-ties Tokens Cologne Handcuff key. a folded $5 Pool Cue Chalk Pager I pod nano Silver dollar Usb stick Etc etc.
20th century pocket worn on men’s jacket. Seam pocket.
20th century jeans back pocket with embroidery.
“Empty pockets never held anyone back, only empty heads and empty hearts can do that.�
Norman Vincent Peale
21st century I phone pocket.