Swd cts articles 2014

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A few months down the line since the community group, Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society, had the good news of receiving funding from the Welsh Government towards the improvement of Twmbarlwm mountain, the area is starting to show the benefits.

The grant, which is part of the WG’s Tidy Towns initiative, supported by Caerphilly County Borough Council, is aimed to encourage community involvement and CTS volunteers come out in all weathers to lend a hand.

On the mountainside above Risca, contractors have all but finished the installation of nearly 1km of fencing which was designed to keep off-road vehicles and trailbikes off the Scheduled Ancient Monument and so prevent further damage to the iron age hill fort at the mountain’s summit. This is no mean achievement considering the amount of rainfall we’ve had in the last two months.

Volunteers from the society have been doing their bit too. On a cold wet weekend in January, a group donned their snazzy hi-viz vests and did a litter pick on the slopes of the mountain and gathered a large pile of rubbish into bags for the CCBC to collect later.

After the litter pick they went on to help haul timber from the forestry which had been prepared by Natural Resources Wales for use in the fencing project. Despite worsening weather conditions this stalwart group collected enough timber and brushwood to fill at least half the fencing completed so far.

Chair, Terry Evans, said “I am so proud of this group of people – to give up time for volunteer work like this is praise-worthy enough at the best of times – but in such wet, windy, freezing conditions like we had today it is above and beyond the call of duty” It was just as well that CTS members Sue and Gretta set up their “field-kitchen” because the hot drinks and hot dogs they provided were much needed to keep the cold at bay. PC Tump (Simon James), who has always been a great supporter of CTS, was also on hand to ensure that volunteers working at the top didn’t get lost in the mist.

Photos: Terry Evans

Beyond the Call of Duty

Contractors, with the help of willing volunteers, put the finishing touches to a run of fencing on Twmbarlwm

Over the next few months the society will be organising further volunteer work days to complete the “Tidy Twmp” project – this will include more litter picks, planting hedging into the fences and erecting signage. The society hope to involve other community groups too – if you or your group would like to offer your support, then please contact them through their website (details below).

CTS plan for most of this project to be ready before Good Friday (18th April) because that will be Twmbarlwm’s first major event of the year, “The Hot Cross Bun Walk” – that’s when, according to local tradition, people from miles around come to walk up the mountain just like pilgrims used to do hundreds of years ago. It’s always a great family day out and the society distributes hot cross buns to everyone who makes the climb.

OTHER CTS EVENTS CTS is a busy little society, apart from the major restoration and construction work on the mountain there is also a programme of talks and other events to entertain those who enjoy local history and interests. To date we have lined up talks on: • ‘Local Traditions and Customs: How far back do they go?’ Peter Brown, University of South Wales.

• ‘The Cistercian Grange Farms on Mynydd Maen’ Dr Maddy Gray, USW. • ‘Bringing the Ship to the Mountain’ - Newport Medieval Ship Project’s Toby Jones, Curator.

• ‘Pre-Roman road network in Iron Age Gwent’ (the Silures) by Paul Thomas USW. Dates and details of all events will be found on the website www.twmbarlwm.co.uk

Some of the work day volunteers are happy to line up with PC Simon James despite the wet and windy weather.

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March 2014

It is now almost four years since I wrote that fateful letter to the South Wales Argus proposing that we (i.e. local people) should form a society to restore and protect Twmbarlwm and its scheduled ancient monument so that future generations can enjoy it as we have. Uptake for membership to Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society was tremendous and since then a great deal has been achieved.

We have organised lectures on the geology and history of Twmbarlwm and Mynydd Maen; led walks in search of the pilgrims trail, lost farms and hot cross buns; attended meetings, pestered and won over Caerphilly County Borough Council and Gwent Police; built fences and picked litter all in the name of our “Tidy Tump”!

The result of all this activity is a very different landscape to what it was four years ago. However, at this point I have to ask myself has it all been worth it?

The answer to that question is obviously a very big YES – below are some of my reasons why I say this.

Photo: Terry Evans

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The “twmp” on Twmbarlwm viewed from the eastern side where CTS have recently built new pathways over the boggy landscape with a grant from the Welsh Government

Twmbarlwm – why is it so special?

Twmbarlwm, Twyn Barlwm, or Tumberlow, as it has variously been referred to over the years, is a very prominent landmark in south-east Wales – it is even visible from Brean Down in Somerset. It is significant historically in various ways and for a number of reasons.

The earliest physical remains on Twmbarlwm date from the Bronze Age circa 2100 to 750 BC. These remains are cairns, or carns in Welsh. Twmbarlwm appears to have been a part of a ritual landscape of tombs and earth works which may have been aligned to other prominent cairns and standing stones on Mynydd y Lan and Mynydd Machen and in more distant locations in the Gwent region.

Archaeologists will also tell you that the ridge that runs between Twmbarlwm and Mynydd Maen is rich in worked flint lithics that may date from this era. There is no natural flint occurring anywhere in south Wales so these appear to be the result of early man’s activities.

Following the Iron Age (circa 800 BC to 100AD) Twmbarlwm has been identified as a hillfort constructed by the Silures, a confederation of peoples local to Gwent and Glamorganshire, whose centre of power may have been Llanmelin Hillfort near the later Roman market town of Venta Silurum (Caerwent). There is no conclusive evidence of this, or of Roman activity, but there is little doubt that both peoples would have considered Twmbarlwm as strategically significant.

Other possibilities are that Twmbarlwm could have been a meeting place, a location for early horse or hiring fairs, a court of law or a religious site. It could even have been a fortified stockade where the local Silures’ herds of cattle could be protected from raiders.

The early Welsh and the Normans also considered the mountain strategic enough to build a wooden motte and bailey castle, or watch tower, on its summit, quite probably to show to all and sundry who controlled this part of Gwent. Again nothing really is known about this, 24

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there is no hard documentary evidence, and all we can do is make educated guesses. Although the society is actively engaged in research to discover the true significance of the mountain and the tumulus at its peak.

During the Elizabethan era, and up to the time of Napoleon, the summit of Twmbarlwm would have been an important location for a beacon fire which would have been lit when the nation was under threat. Later, the beacon on Twmbarlwm was fired up in celebration of the several jubilees of Queen Victoria.

More recently a beacon was lit at the time of the present Queen’s ascension to the throne in 1952 and, just two years ago, by our society in celebration of her 60th anniversary as monarch.

Many older readers will remember Twmbarlwm as the location for an annual Chapel walk from Risca and Newport on Good Friday.

There is little doubt that Twmbarlwm is significant in many ways… but so are so many other places in south Wales, yet very few are celebrated in the same way as our mountain.

What particularly strikes me about the mountain is the special significance attached to it by local people.

As an outsider, coming originally from Tredegar, what impresses me most is that people really do care about what happens on the mountain – almost as if it was an old friend or relative. They appreciate the spectacular views which are second to none in Gwent, the history, and the legends – but most of all Twmbarlwm holds a special place in their heart. It is their vision of home, their little piece of heaven. It is certainly mine. I hope it is yours too and that you will join us at one of our activities in the near future.

Rob Southall, Founder and trustee, CTS

CTS will be hosting a talk by Toby Jones, Curator of the Newport Medieval Ship Project at Crosskeys Rugby Club on 21st May at 7.30pm see details on our website – www.twmbarlwm.co.uk May 2014

Anyone who has been up Twmbarlwm in the last month will have seen the results of the work that was completed

by Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society over the winter months - thanks to a grant from the Welsh Government through their Tidy Towns initiative and with the support of Caerphilly County Borough Council.

Nearly a mile of double fencing was erected and almost 4,000 trees planted as well as installing 4 kissing gates and laying a 15 metre floating stone path. To round it all off an impressive stone cairn was erected to carry a “Welcome to Twmbarlwm” sign.

Now that we are well into spring it is wonderful to see that all the hedgerow whips that were planted are in full leaf and look as though they will become magnificent hedges in their new mountainside home.

Previous articles have outlined the progress of this project and regular readers will know that most of the work was completed by contractors but on occasion CTS organised workdays when groups of volunteers helped with some of the work.

However, don’t think the “Tidy Twmp” project has finished – the building of the fences and hedgerows was just the start – it is now up to CTS members to maintain and nurture what has been created – not just for now but for future generations.

To that end CTS have announced that the last Sunday of every month is going to be a Volunteer Day – when everyone will be welcome to meet at the car park (at the end of Mountain Road on the Risca side) and get stuck into whatever jobs are ear-marked for the day. This will generally be a litter pick of the area; walking the fences to check them and repair if necessary; checking the planted shrubs and beating down any bracken which may threaten the new hedging. There is always some little task needing to be done.

Photo: Terry Evans

Monument to a good winter’s work

The stone cairn on Twmbarlwm was a great collaboration of minds - from a scribbled concept by Howard Vicary, made into working drawings by Terry Evans and given life by the real craftsman, stone mason Ken Young.

The volunteer work days are generally announced through the Twmbarlwm website, direct email and the Facebook group and we are very grateful to those who turn up.

Once the work for the day is done we can all gather for a picnic and a chin-wag – we will provide tea and biscuits but if weather permits we may even organise a BBQ. The volunteer days in the winter months turned into fun social days despite the horrible weather conditions – so the summer events promise to be great days out – with the added bonus of knowing you have done some worthwhile work for the community.

MORE PROJECTS – MORE VOLUNTEERS Apart from the physical work on Twmbarlwm, CTS would also like to encourage more members and volunteers to get involved with other projects or even suggest new ones. For example we intend to have a stand at local fayres and carnivals – help there would be very welcome, check out the website for details.

Also, please look out for other events arranged by CTS. For instance over the next few months there will be illustrated talks by learned experts at Crosskeys RFC on subjects such as “The Iron Age Road Network of Gwent”, “Local Traditions and Customs”, “Lost Farmsteads of Twmbarlwm and Mynydd Maen” and on 28th June there is to be an organised “Walk to the Pool of Avarice” led by Rob Southall.

Find the information on www.twmbarlwm.co.uk

In time honoured fashion, local dignitaries were invited to help plant trees to mark the completion of the Tidy Twmp project.

From left to right: CTS members Rob and Sam Southall, Chris Evans MP and his assistant, Jocelyn Davies AM, Gwyn Price AM, Sue Evans, PC Simon James, Dave Parry and CTS Chairman Terry Evans.

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July 2014

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Another Year on

Twmbarlwm TEMPUS FUGIT - a Latin phrase everyone knows the meaning of, possibly because it is such a cliché. “Time flies” we all say, “especially when you’re enjoying yourself” - so the wag will pipe in, which is certainly true when you’re involved with Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society.

Next month (October 6th) will be the CTS AGM and leading up to that, as the chair, it falls to me to prepare a review of the year for inclusion in our Newsletter/Yearbook. But where do I start? What do I include? What articles do I spike?

The year was dominated by the fencing and planting work we have been doing with the support of a Welsh Government’s “Tidy Town” grant. Every stage of the work was documented and photographed so I have plenty to choose from there.

We have stories of busy volunteer workdays, which all seemed to take place in the foulest weather, and of group walks around the mountain.

We also have slices of local history to regale you with, in particular there’s an in-depth study of “Lost Farmsteads of Twmbarlwm and Mynydd Maen” by our founder Rob Southall.

Then there are the serious issues that concern the society, like the implications of the destruction of the evergreen forests in the area, due to the Phytophthora Ramorum disease affecting the larch trees.

Mynydd Twmbarlwm photographed by Heather Buckingham in 2010

The stories I really like are the personal memories and family links that local people have of the mountain.

Whatever gets past my editor’s pen, I’m sure the Newsletter will prove to be an interesting read. It will be published in October and available free to CTS members – if you would be interested in receiving a copy please contact us through our website www.twmbarlwm.co.uk To whet your appetite, below is an extract from a personal story by aviator and author Mike Buckingham which will appear in full in the Newsletter and which he has kindly permitted me to reproduce here...

Flight to the Enchanted Mountain I would have remembered the day even had it not been entered in my pilot’s log book conveying that the flight in Piper Tomahawk G-TOMS was on the 7th October 2010 (before CTS started its good works).

My destination was Mynydd Twmbarlwm – it took an hour to get from Swansea and back with me as captain and my wife Heather as ‘official’ photographer.

I had first seen the mountain which is southern Gwent’s defining landmark in the 1950s as in our 1939 Wolseley we made our way westward under what, quite unbeknown to me then was to be the reciprocal of my flight path more than half-a-century later.

I recall the skyline with its add-on Norman look-out reminding me of a reclining female nude but there might have been something Freudian going on as the Tump stole into my consciousness.

When flying in hills you add 300 feet to your height in order to clear obstacles such as radio masts and another thousand for luck. At 2,500 feet I banked to give Heather a good angle for her pictures.

The damage we surveyed was hideous and upsetting to Heather who remembered trips with other pupils of Newbridge Grammar School, converging on the Tump as dawn broke to view the splendour which cannot help 24

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but put one in mind of the Creation. The mountain and its Tump was a place of collection, and of recollection The soft tread of children and their chatter is now replaced by the tinny thrashing of motorcycle engines and the brutal scoring of knobbled cross-country tyres.

I could rage about the malignity and barbarism of those who have wounded the mountain but it won’t make any difference. They won’t be reading this or anything else.

They dwell in deserts of self-absorption and gratification devoid of reflection and creative thought.

The word is Manichean; the eternal battle between creation and destruction, good and evil, which even now is being fought over the Tump and all that is required for evil to triumph is that good men and women do nothing.

The picture above, taken by Heather from the air, is the evidence of this badness. Peaceful and innocent days will not return without an effort on the part of those who wish them. I want children to see the dawn and hear the exultant trilling of larks. We must do something.

May I suggest joining and supporting the Twmbarlwm Society is an excellent start!

Mike Buckingham’s latest novel Luck Be A Lady is published by GG Books at £8.95. Visit www.mike-buckingham.com for details.

September 2014

Last Chance to Capture

Twmbarlwm WHAT IS IT IN the human psyche that makes us want to struggle breathlessly to our nearest peak just to stand and stare at the scenery in the hazy distance? We love to drink in the landscape laid out before us and the more that the beauty intoxicates us the more it lifts our inner soul. For me a walk to the top of Twmbarlwm is a sure-fire cure for any melancholy or everyday stresses that may afflict me.

We are very lucky in Wales to have such a wealth of natural beauty around us – from the rugged coastline of the Gower and Pembrokeshire to the craggy peaks of the Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia.

The Wales Government through Visit Wales quite rightly utilise this wonderful and diverse landscape of ours to promote the country worldwide and encourage visitors to come and share in the good fortune bestowed on us by mother nature – and indeed by our ancestors who built the many castles of Wales.

Tourism is a vital part of the Welsh economy with latest figures showing that it contributes over £5.8 billion. The latest “Visits to Wales Tourist Attractions” figures also makes for interesting reading but don’t worry, I don’t intend to go into an in-depth analysis here.

However, what I find interesting is that our very own Cwmcarn Forest Drive was seventh in the list of most visited attractions in Wales with over 250,000 visitors in 2013. Beating Caerphilly Castle with 110,000 visitors and even the world famous Italianate village of Portmeirion in North Wales with 190,000 visitors.

The popularity of the Forest Drive owes a great deal, I believe, to our beloved mountain of Twmbarlwm, with its spectacular views over the densely wooded slopes of the Nant Carn valley towards Brecon, the Severn estuary, Cardiff and beyond.

It’s the surrounding forestry that enhances the views from the top, particularly so as autumn approaches. The predominant Japanese larch, which despite being described as an evergreen, turns to vibrant yellow and orange before shedding its needles to carpet the forest floor. Walk through the forest at this time of year and the

slightest breeze will shower you with the brightly coloured needles, this can be a spectacular sight when caught in the sunbeams coming through the trees.

Unfortunately this autumn may be your last opportunity to witness the forest in all its splendour because starting in November it’s all going to be felled. A dreadful disease called Phytophthora Ramorum has taken grip in the area causing National Resources Wales to make the controversial decision to close the Forest Drive to motor vehicles while the work progresses.

There have understandably been outcries from community groups against the decision but there is no getting away from the fact that larch disease is here and it is killing the trees. The disease is extremely virulent and being an air-borne infection it has been gradually spreading through the forests of south Wales for a number of years.

Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society is monitoring the situation and maintains a dialogue with the agencies involved. This is not the place to discuss the politics involved but, if like me you enjoy the spectacular scenery that we have on our doorstep I would simply encourage you to visit the Twmp and the Forest Drive and take as many photos as possible to record and show future generations what we once had. We are assured that the NRW has a comprehensive re-planting scheme planned, which will include more native broadleaf species, but it will take many years for the forest to return to its former glory.

During the drive’s closure, estimated at two years, you will still be able to walk to the top of Twmbarlwm from the Cwmcarn visitor centre – but don’t forget that the approach to Twmbarlwm using Mountain Road from Risca will not be affected by the Forest Drive closure.

Despite the felling of the trees I’m sure the views will always impress. In the meantime, if you do get out and take some stunning photos why not post them on our web-site for all to see – www.twmbarlwm.co.uk – which is also the place to go for directions how to get up the mountain, information on the society, its events and news updates.

Autumnal view into the Nant Carn forest taken from Pegwyn y Bwlch on Mynydd Twmbarlwm. Photographed by Terry Evans 2012

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October 2014

The Forest Drive to Twmbarlwm…

There is an Alternative It will be a few years before visitors will be able experience the Cwmcarn Forest Drive in all its autumnal beauty like this.

Photos by Terry Evans

“THE CWMCARN FOREST DRIVE will be closed for several years…” was the message in the last issue.

This was pretty bad news for Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society as we aim to encourage people to visit Twmbarlwm as much as possible, to enjoy the scenery and its history, and the Forest Drive provided easy access to our beautiful mountain.

Many visitors like to drive to car park 2, then walk across the relatively flat ridgeway to the iconic Tump. I regularly walk to the top of the Tump and often talk to those who have taken that route – and they look down the mountain and are surprised to see a car park on the common, just half a mile below them. I smugly explain it’s local knowledge how to get there – but with the closure of the Forest Drive the route from the Risca side of Twmbarlwm is the only alternative for those who prefer to drive the first part of the steep climb.

Indeed, it is now the only route for those who are less able – I’m the first to admit that since I developed “a bit of a bad-knee” I find it very convenient to drive up Mountain Road to the car park and it’s a relatively easy walk to the top from there. Visit our website to get directions and a sketch map of the route.

I must stress, however, that the route is a single track lane all the way with several passing places, so you need to take great care and drive slowly and sensibly along the lane and above all be courteous to other users you may encounter coming the other way, especially in deciding who should pull over into to the nearest passing place.

An ideal location to start your new get fit regime.

This route could also be a useful starting point for those who have made the New Year’s Resolution to get themselves fit and/or lose a few pounds. If you are a little unfit, the thought of running (or walking) up a steep mountain will fill you with dread and is probably not recommended. I suggest that you drive to the car-park and from there, the walk up the farm track is not too steep and will soon raise your pulse rate. Once on the ridgeway it’s quite flat and you can choose your own pace for a longer walk or run.

Personally I find it crazy that people pay an extortionate amount to join a gym just to walk on an electronic machine while watching MTV alongside other sweating, 24

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The winding Mountain Road to Twmbarlwm

panting individuals. When, for absolutely no outlay, you can get out into the fresh air with beautiful scenery all around and soft grass beneath your feet to walk or run as far as you want.

OK, you may need to get some decent walking shoes and a waterproof coat, but the rewards of walking our hillsides can be as much spiritual as they are physical.

Conquering the walk to the summit and taking in the views can fill you with a feeling of self satisfaction and achievement much more than a half hour on a tread machine.

And this is an activity the whole family can take part in. Take the kids with you – the younger ones will love splashing through the mud and puddles and searching out what wildlife they can, and I’ve even heard teenagers grudgingly admit that they’ve enjoyed a walk on the mountain.

Take your parents with you – they’ll say they used to come up here all the time as kids but haven’t been up there for years, and they will probably race you to the top when they get there. Or they can just sit in the car to wait for you while contemplating the view over Newport, the Bristol Channel and Cardiff.

CTS meet at the car park for a litter pick on the last Sunday of every month to which everyone is invited, it’s not hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find your way around up there. We organise walks up the mountain throughout the year (you’d be amazed how many different routes we know) so watch our website for details and come and join us some time.

We also plan to hold a “Bio-Blitz”, led by ecology experts, in late spring which will be both educational and great fun for kids of all ages, if you think your school or organisation would like to get involved in that, please get in touch through our website.

www.twmbarlwm.co.uk January 2015