SCIENCE OF HAIRCARE

BY JACQUI MCINTOSH

Our Columnist

JACQUI MCINTOSH IS A QUALIFIED EDUCATOR, A MENTOR, EDUCATION DIRECTOR FOR AVLON EUROPE, A SPECIALIST IN TEXTURE MANAGEMENT, AND A CERTIFIED TRICHOLOGIST. SHE TELLS US ABOUT THE IMPORTANCE OF HAIR HEALTH FOR ALL TEXTURES, AND WHY WHAT YOU PUT IN YOUR HAIR AND YOUR BODY MATTERS.

Why I got into Trichology.

I have always been intrigued by the science of hair and want to gain a deeper understanding of what impacts hair from the inside out. As hairdressers, we are constantly assessing our clients, both their mental health and hair health, and helping them to feel better, whether it is chatting with them through their problems, or helping them on their hair health journey.

This interest in learning more about the inner workings of hair was what naturally led me to study trichology. I wanted to have a deeper understanding of the impact of what I do as a hairdresser on the hair and scalp, and what sort of things my clients are doing that is causing effects as well. People often just think of trichology as just about hair loss, but, by the time that client comes to a trichologist, it is usually at such a late stage that a lot of the damage is already done. So, my goal was to educate myself to get that head start so that I could notice the signs of hair loss before they even start. To be preventative, rather than reparative.

What is a Trichologist?

As a Trichologist, you are the middle ground between a medical professional and a hairdresser. Hairdressers learn a little bit about hair loss during training, enough to spot the signs, but not enough to understand the internal causes behind it. On the other hand, medical professionals can take blood tests and understand what is going on in the body that is triggering the hair loss, but, let’s be honest, a GP isn’t likely to spend the time investigating those tests if there isn’t anything life-threatening going on. So, the role of the trichologist is to be that dedicated person who knows hair and scalp health inside out. We can look at blood results and help determine where the client is nutrient deficient, and what they need to do to help restore hair health.

My goal is to be able to stop hair loss before it even becomes irreversable. So, I recommend my clients in the salon to visit a Trichologist routinely, perhaps once a year, the way you see your optician. So that we can pick up issues at the root!

What is a hairdresser’s role in hair loss?

Hairdressers are the best route to noticing the signs of hair loss and investigating what might be the cause. The first thing you do in a hair service is a consultation. In the consultation you are naturally investigating their hair and scalp condition. Is the hair in a strong enough condition to color? What condition is the scalp in?

If the client is experiencing some changes in their hair condition you can ask, have they changed up what they’ve been eating or gone on a diet? Have they been experiencing an especially stressful time at work? Are they going through menopause? All of these things can trigger changes to the hair.

Hair loss can also be triggered by chemical damage and mechanical damage. Has your client been box-dying their hair? Have they been using a shampoo or conditioner with a pH that is too high? With textured hair, you need to be very careful when selecting products, as the hair can be very brittle. A shampoo that can be great on a type one or type two hair type, can cause a lot of damage to a coily hair type.The good thing is, when damage is caused chemically or mechanically, a hairdresser is the one to help the client get back on the journey to healthy hair.

What should you be looking for in products?

Choosing the right products for your clients is essential to good hair health. You need to be informed of the ingredients and processes behind the products you are using, and how they are going to work on a variety of hair types. Working with a brand like Avlon is great because you know that every product is backed by science, and the most innovative ingredients are being used.

Some ingredients I always suggest looking for ingredients such as Biotin (B7) which helps to stimulate keratin production, Ceramides, which help with hair strengthening, and restoring damage. Saw Palmetto which is used for its anti-inflammatory properties to reduce inflammation on the scalp, while strengthening the hair follicle, enabling help the hair to grow stronger and thicker. And Copper Tripeptide will act to increase follicle size, which gives your hair greater volume and enhances its thickness.

Knowing your ingredients and how they can help your clients is the best way that you as a professional can help support your clients and help them get on a healthier hair journey.