THE HEAVIEST CORNER ON EARTH

“The Heaviest Corner on Earth” isn’t really the heaviest corner on earth, of course. But it is a striking tribute to Birmingham’s miraculous growth in the early 1900s and an important legacy from the city’s formative years.

The Heaviest Corner on Earth refers to a grouping of four early skyscrapers anchoring the downtown intersection on 20th Street and First Avenue North. The structures heralded Birmingham’s coming of age at the turn of the century when the smokestacks of heavy industry belched the soot and grime of prosperity.

From 1903 to 1913 seven skyscrapers sprang up in the flourishing downtown district. The four at the main intersection created an unusual massing, setting the scale for their successors. The towering giants were monstrous in comparison to the delicate design of the 19th century buildings along First Avenue.

The residents of Birmingham were sure the dominance of these soaring structures made the intersection “the heaviest corner on earth,” and they proudly proclaimed it so.

When passersby through this busy intersection gaze upward, the massive group of buildings still has a powerful effect. Their contemporary counterparts just a few blocks away are, of course, much bigger, and more commanding than these turn-of-the-century skyscrapers. But standing at that intersection, surrounded by their compelling dignity, you can understand exactly why it once felt like the heaviest corner on earth.

12. Arlington Antebellum Home and Gardens

The city’s only antebellum home, the mansion is fully restored and contains a fine collection of antiques and decorative arts including 19th century furniture, textiles, silver and paintings. During the Civil War, Arlington Antebellum home was spared from destruction when Union troops used the home as headquarters. Open Tues – Sat, 10 am – 4 pm; Closed Sun (tickets sold until 3 pm) Admission. 331 Cotton Ave SW. 205-780-5656.

arlingtonantebellumhomeandgardens.com

13. Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum

Home to the world’s best motorcycle collection, the museum now has more than 1,600 vintage and modern motorcycles and race cars and the largest collection of Lotus cars as well as other significant makes. The museum is adjacent to Barber Motorsports Park, a world-class 2.3 mile road course and home to the Honda Indy Grand

Prix of Alabama. Museum Hours: April 1 – September 30, Mon– Sat: 10am – 6pm, Sunday: Noon – 6pm; October 1 – March 31, Mon – Sat: 10am – 5pm, Sun: Noon – 5pm. Admission. 6030 Barber Motorsports Pkwy. 205-699-7275. barbermuseum.org

14. Bethel Baptist Church

Included in the national monument district is Birmingham’s Bethel Baptist Church, credited with shaping the Civil Rights Movement here. Civil rights legend, the Reverend Fred L. Shuttlesworth, was pastor of Bethel Baptist Church from 1953 through 1961. The church often served as a gathering place for discussions of civil rights among Blacks, gatherings that angered white supremacists. In 1958, Bethel Baptist was bombed, though the church was empty at the time. The bombing cemented Shuttlesworth’s fiery determination to bring Birmingham to the center of the Civil Rights Movement. Open by appointment. Admission. 3200 28th Avenue North, 205.322.5360. thehistoricbethel.org

15. Birmingham Botanical Gardens

The glory of nature in the heart of the city— that’s the promise of the 67-acre Birmingham Botanical Gardens. The gardens are Alabama’s largest living museum with more than 10,000 di erent plants in 25 themed areas. The gardens also have more than 30 works of original outdoor sculpture and miles of walking paths. Birmingham Botanical Gardens also has the largest public horticulture library in the U.S., conservatories, a wildflower garden, two rose gardens and Japanese Gardens with a traditionally crafted tea house. Open sunrise to sunset daily. 2612 Lane Park Rd. 205-414-3900. bbgardens.org

16. Birmingham Civil Rights Heritage Trail

The Birmingham Civil Rights Heritage Trail winds through downtown, marking significant locations along Civil Rights march routes. Designed as a self-guided tour, the route includes signs marking actual civil rights events that occurred on the very streets that are a part of this trail. Beginning at Kelly Ingram Park, corner of 6th Ave N and 16th St. Follow maps on signs.

17. Birmingham Civil Rights Institute

Richly detailed exhibits in the Civil Rights Institute reveal slices of Black and white life in Alabama from the late 1800s to the present. A series of galleries tells the stories of daily life for African-Americans in the state and the nation and how dramatically di erent it was from the lives white people of that era took for granted. The powerful Movement Gallery presents the Civil Rights Movement from 1955 to 1963. Here a picture emerges of the bad old days of “Bombingham,” a reference to the relentless violence that rocked the city in the late 1950s and early ‘60s. In the final exhibits, the Processional Gallery uses life-size figures representing all ages and races to portray the “walk to freedom.” Open Tues – Sat, 10 am –5 pm; Admission. (Last admission one hour prior to gallery closing.)

520 16th St N. 205-328-9696. bcri.org

18. Birmingham Museum of Art

The Birmingham Museum of Art has one of the finest collections in the Southeast. More than 27,000 objects represent a rich panorama of cultures, including Asian, European, American, African, Pre-Columbian and Native American. 

Highlights include the museum’s collection of Asian art, considered the finest and most comprehensive in the Southeast, and its collection of Vietnamese ceramics, one of the finest in the world; a remarkable Kress collection of Renaissance and Baroque paintings, sculpture, and decorative arts from the late 13th century to the 1750s; the collection of 18th century European decorative arts, which includes superior examples of English ceramics and French furniture; and the museum’s world-renowned collection of Wedgwood, the largest outside of museums in England. Café is closed. Open Tues – Sat, 10 am – 5 pm; Sun, noon – 5 pm. Donations welcome. 2000 Rev. Abraham Woods, Jr. Blvd. 205-254-2565. artsbma.org

19. Birmingham Public Library

The main library is made up of two stunning buildings, the East Building with its dramatic atrium and the 1927 Linn-Henley Research Library with its beautiful wall murals. Hundreds of visitors come to the main library each year to access their extensive genealogical resources. Call for hours of operation. 2100 Park Place. 205-226-3600. bplonline.org

20. Birmingham Race Course Casino

A spacious pari-mutuel racing facility, the Birmingham Race Course & Casino is open year-round. Patrons enjoy simulcast events from the country’s top thoroughbred and greyhound racetracks. Open daily 11 am –1 am. 1000 John Rogers Dr. 205-838-7500. birminghamracecourse.com

21. Birmingham Zoo

One of the state’s most popular attractions, the Birmingham Zoo is an ever-evolving adventure. Visitors come from around the Southeast to see shows such as the Rhino Encounter, the Gira e Feedings, the Lorikeet Aviary, the Predator Zone and the Sea Lion Splash Show. Trails of Africa is a mixedspecies exhibit that includes a bull elephant herd, red river hogs, gira es, wildebeest, zebras and more. Concessions and dining on site. Open daily 9 am – 5 pm. Extended hours for summertime and special events. Admission. 2630 Cahaba Rd. 205-879-0409. birminghamzoo.com

Attractions

A Few of Our Favorite Things...

• BOTTEGA BOWLS bottegarestaurant.com

• BLOODY MARYS AT THE GARAGE 2304 10th Terrace S

• THE CITY SKYLINE FROM RUFFNER MOUNTAIN... AND FROM HIGHLAND PARK GOLF COURSE ru nermountain.org highlandparkgolf.com

• THE ALABAMA BOOKSMITH alabamabooksmith.com

• VULCAN’S UNABASHED BARING OF HIS BACKSIDE visitvulcan.com

• SOUL PIE AT SLICE PIZZA & BREW slicebirmingham.com

• THE HYDRANGEAS IN BLOOM AT ALDRIDGE GARDENS aldridgegardens.com

• THE BACKSTORY OF THE TEMPLE OF SYBIL birminghamal.org/listings/temple-ofsibyl

• EAGLE’S RESTAURANT eaglesrestaurant.com

• THE ALABAMA THEATRE’S DOWNSTAIRS LOUNGE alabamatheatre.com

• WEIRD AND RARE STUFF AT REED BOOKS jimreedbooks.com

22. Cathedral of St. Paul Church

Built as a church for Birmingham’s Catholic population, it became the cathedral of the Catholic Diocese of Birmingham in 1969. The Cathedral of Saint Paul – informally known as Saint Paul's Cathedral – was designed by Chicago architect Adolphus Druiding; the Victorian Gothic-style brick building was completed as a parish church in 1893. 2120 3rd Ave N., 205-251-1279; stpaulsbhm.org

23. City Walk BHAM

The newest addition to the exciting momentum in Birmingham, City Walk BHAM is transforming the area within the I-59/20 corridor into an environment that connects the city like never before. City Walk BHAM has something for everyone – from young to old and artists to athletes. The space, which spans 10 city blocks from 15th Street North to 25th Street North and is almost a mile in length, features playgrounds and pickleball courts, a skate park and a dog park, space for fitness classes, food trucks, and much more. Not to mention, the LED ribbon lighting certainly makes a Birmingham vibe. City Walk BHAM is located along 9th avenue north between 15th street and 25th street. It stretches underneath the I 59/20 interstate bridges through the central business district of Birmingham near the BJCC. Open daily 7 am – 11 pm; 205-458-8216. info@citywalkbham.com; citywalkbham.com

24. Eddie Kendrick Memorial Park

Honoring Birmingham native and Temptations lead singer, Eddie Kendrick, who traveled the world but never forgot his Alabama roots. Sculpted by Ronald Scott McDowell, the Kendrick statue captures for eternity the magic moves of his Motown music. Inlaid in a granite backdrop behind Kendrick, the four other Temptations energize the work with their fine-tuned choreography. Born in Birmingham in 1937, Kendrick and the Temptations hit the top of the music charts in 1964 with “The Way You Do the Things You Do,” the first of 37 career Top Ten hits. Eddie Kendrick Memorial Park is located at the corner of 4th Avenue North and 18th Street in Birmingham’s famed Civil Rights District, just a block from the Alabama. 1727 4th Ave N, Birmingham, AL 35203

25. Eternal Word Television Network – EWTN

One of the best-known religious sites in Birmingham is EWTN, the Eternal Word Television Network, founded by Mother Mary Angelica, broadcasting daily from the grounds of Our Lady of the Angels Monastery. Mother Angelica hosted “Mother Angelica Live!” on EWTN until she su ered a debilitating stroke in 2001. Today daily Mass, music, news, and devotionals are broadcast round the clock to more than 230 million television households in more than 140 countries and territories. Tours by appointment only. 5817 Old Leeds Rd, Irondale, 205-271-2900. ewtn.com

Calling All Cemetery Bu s

New Orleans is not the only city noted for its interesting cemeteries. (And by the way, if you think people aren’t interested in touring cemeteries, well, you’re dead wrong. Just ask the folks at the New Orleans Tourist Bureau or the Hollywood Cemetery.)

Birmingham’s first official burial ground, Oak Hill Cemetery, is the final resting place of most of the city’s founding fathers and their families. A piece of Birmingham’s early history is told here by very ornate as well as simple grave markers scattered across a hill just north of the Birmingham-Jefferson Convention Complex. Most of the burials were prior to 1930.

Elmwood Cemetery is another site of interest to cemetery buffs. Unusual markers include a giant Oriental mushroom alongside a bridge spanning the earthly life with the eternal. Graves of famous Alabamians include that of Coach Paul “Bear” Bryant, former coach of the University of Alabama’s famous Crimson Tide. The cemetery got so many requests for directions to Bryant’s grave that they finally painted crimson stripes to follow from the entrance to his burial site.

Also buried at Elmwood is Eddie Kendrick, founding member of the Temptations. The legendry Sun Ra, who died in 1993, was internationally famous for his wildly experimental jazz and claim that he was born in outer space. Only in death did Herman Sonny Blount, the name inscribed on his simple headstone, come home to earth to stay.

26. Heart of Dixie Railroad Museum

Alabama’s o cial railroad museum, the Heart of Dixie Railroad Museum has operating standard gauge and narrow gauge trains and two restored depots housing a good collection of railroad artifacts. Also on the grounds is a collection of railway cars, locomotives, and cabooses. Train rides available—call for dates and times. Museum open Tues – Sat, 9 am – 4 pm. Donations welcome. 1919 9th St, Calera. 205-668-3435. hodrrm.org

27. Kelly Ingram Park

Called a “Place of Revolution and Reconciliation,” Kelly Ingram Park in Birmingham’s Civil Rights District is adjacent to the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute and historic 16th Street Baptist Church. The park served as a staging area for demonstrations in the early 1960s, including the ones in which police dogs and fire hoses were turned on marchers. Images of those attacks haunted Birmingham in the decades that followed, but they were the same images that were instrumental in overturning legal segregation. An audio tour, available via your cell phone, takes you on a journey through the most dramatic days of the Civil Rights Movement in Birmingham. Bounded by 16th and 17th Streets and 5th and 6th Avenues North. nps.gov/nr/travel/civilrights/al10.htm

28. “Letter From Birmingham Jail”

Historic Marker

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. wrote his famous “Letter from Birmingham Jail” in April 1963 while he was incarcerated for violating an injunction that prohibited public civil rights demonstrations in Birmingham. He wrote it in response to a handful of Alabama’s leading white religious leaders who had issued a public statement questioning the motives and methods of the King-led demonstrations in the city. 425 6th Ave S.

29. Lyric Theater

Reopened in 2016 after a multi-million dollar renovation, the beautiful Lyric Theatre opened as a vaudeville venue with 1914. Stars such as the Marx Brothers, Mae West and Milton Berle played the Lyric. Today it hosts a range of performances of all genres. Designed with live entertainment in mind, the Lyric welcomes the best concerts, symphonies, theatre productions and live performances in the Southeast. 1800 Third Ave N. 205-252-2262. lyricbham.com

30. McWane Science Center

Four floors of hands-on exhibits and an IMAX Dome Theatre are all part of the fun of learning at McWane Science Center. Celebrating science and discovery, the exhibits include everything from dinosaurs to space travel. Play tunes with your feet on the Giant Piano and learn about gravity with a ride on the High Cycle. Pet the sharks and stingrays in the Shark & Ray Touch Tank and check out the Zoetrope for visual illusions of motion from still pictures. Closed Mon & Tues; Open Wed, Thu, Fri, 9 am – 5 pm; Sun, noon – 5 pm. Admission. 200 19th St N., 205-714-8300. mcwane.org

31. Mercedes-Benz US International Visitors Center

Mercedes-Benz US International (MBUSI) in nearby Vance, builds the M-Class, the R-Class and the GL-Class vehicles. The

FOR LOCATIONS SEE FOLD OUT MAP IN BACK OF GUIDE visitors center, the first one of its kind outside Germany, displays the star-studded history of Daimler-Benz. This architectural showcase brings to life the company’s long-held vision of producing the most excellent automobiles in the world. Much more than a museum, the visitors center moves people along a multimedia path through the past, present and future of automotive technology. Visitors Center opening June 2023. Admission for factory tours (available by reservation only). 11 Mercedes Dr, Vance. 205-507-2252. mbusi.com

32. Negro Southern League Museum

This interactive facility tells the story of the Birmingham Black Barons and other baseball greats who played at Birmingham’s Rickwood Field, the oldest ballpark in the country. Displays include the oldest Negro League trophy, along with uniforms and artifacts. Museum open Tues – Fri, 10 am – 4 pm; Sat, 10 am – 4 pm; Closed Sun-Mon. 120 16th St S. 205-581-3040. birminghamnslm.org

33. Oak Mountain State Park

Outdoor adventure can be found at Alabama’s largest state park. The 10,000acre park has a sandy beach area fronting the lake, rental boats and fishing equipment, an 18-hole golf course, and some of the best mountain biking trails in the Southeast. The Wildlife Center and Treetop Nature Trail give visitors up-close views of hawks and owls that cannot be released into the wild. Overnight accommodations also are available within the park. Open every day 7 am – 5 pm. Admission. 200 Terrace Dr. 205-620-2520. alapark.com/oak-mountain-state-park

34. Pepper Place Saturday Market

(seasonal) April – December

The Pepper Place Saturday Market is a much-anticipated weekly event, taking place Saturday mornings from early spring through late fall. The region’s farming families converge on a lot in the Lakeview District to sell fresh vegetables and flowers, freshbaked breads, cakes and pies, and even fresh honey. Local musicians and Birmingham’s finest chefs join the farming community and market patrons for entertainment and cooking demonstrations. A former Dr. Pepper bottling plant, Pepper Place is also known for its shops that have made it a premier design center. 2829 2nd Ave S. 205-802-2100. pepperplacemarket.com

35. Rickwood Field

Built in 1910, Rickwood Field is America’s oldest baseball park. During its heyday, Rickwood hosted baseball greats such as Jackie Robinson, Ty Cobb, Babe Ruth, Lorenzo “Piper” Davis, Willie Mays and “Shoeless” Joe Jackson. Friends and fans eagerly await the annual Rickwood Classic, a game that pits the AA Birmingham Barons against a regular Southern League rival. Team members dress in vintage uniforms, and people come from around the country to celebrate baseball history. The authenticity of Rickwood is being carefully preserved by the Friends of Rickwood Field. Check events schedule for expanded hours. Visit website for more information. 1137 2nd Ave W. 205-458-8161. rickwood.com

FOR LOCATIONS

SEE FOLD OUT MAP IN BACK OF GUIDE

36. Sixteenth Street Baptist Church National Historic Landmark

The Sixteenth Street Baptist Church is Birmingham' s most famous Civil Rights landmark. On a September Sunday morning in 1963, four African-American schoolgirls were in the basement of the church just prior to the worship service. A bomb set by Ku Klux Klansmen ripped through that side of the church, killing 11-year-old Denise McNair, Carole Robertson, Cynthia Wesley and Addie Mae Collins, all 14 years old. The bombing was a turning point in the status of race relations locally and nationally. Now a National Historic Landmark, the church is a reminder of man's inhumanity and his capacity for love and forgiveness. The sanctuary of the church contains a massive stained glass window of Christ, given in memoriam from the people of Wales following the bombing. Admission charged. Reserve tours by appointment online. Open Tues-Sat 10am, last tour begins at 3pm. 1530 6th Ave N. 205-251-9402 16thstreetbaptist.org

The parsonage next door, built in 1914, houses the Wallace A. Rayfield Museum. This exhibition honors the renowned Black architect who, designed the 16th Street Baptist Church, and other builders of the Black community who were at the forefront of reimagining. Open to the public 10am- 4pm. 1530 6th Ave N. 205-251-9402 16thstreetbaptist.org

37. Sloss Furnaces National Historic Landmark

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The All-in-One ticket is your pass to some of the best attractions in Alabama, all for one low price. With the All-in-One ticket you can enjoy admission once to all attractions listed on the ticket during the time span selected.

• Each ticket is a special grouping of attractions within areas of the state.

Scan this QR code for more information or visit alabama.travel

39. Tannehill Ironworks Historical State Park

With more than 1,500 acres for hiking and camping, Tannehill is well suited for outdoor recreation. The old ironworks and a collection of 19th century buildings give visitors a glimpse into life in Alabama in the 1800s. Steeped in history, Tannehill has a cotton gin, a pioneer farm, a working gristmill and a country store, along with the Iron and Steel Museum with artifacts from Alabama’s iron industry heritage. From spring through fall, visitors find blacksmithing, milling and many other activities underway in the park. The third weekend of each month, from March through November, shoppers and swappers come from near and far to Trade Days in search of quilts, clothing, jewelry, knives, furniture and other treasures. Open daily 7 am – sunset. Visitor Center open 10:00 am –4:00 pm. Admission. 12632 Confederate Pkwy. 205-477-5711. tannehill.org

40. Vulcan Park and Museum

38. Southern Museum of Flight

The Southern Museum of Flight is dedicated to investigating, preserving and promoting the rich stories of Southern aviation. Among the top exhibits are the Korean War jets, the Tuskegee Airmen diorama, the Lake Murray B-25, and the Vietnam War helicopters. Ship models and full-size aircraft carriers also are in the collection. Open Tues – Sat, 9:00 am –2:00 pm. Admission. 4343 73rd St N. 205-833-8226. southernmuseumo ight.org

Vulcan is the largest cast iron statue in the world and Birmingham’s city symbol. Standing high atop Red Mountain, the 56-foot-high statue has an observation balcony on its pedestal for a panoramic view of the city. Vulcan is patterned after the mythical Roman god of the forge, a nod to the city’s powerful position in the iron and steel industry in the first part of the 20th century. The statue was created as Birmingham’s exhibit in the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis and won the exposition’s grand prize. The museum at Vulcan has interactive exhibits and displays that portray the region’s history and progress. Museum open Mon – Sun, 10 am – 6 pm; Observation balcony open Mon – Sun, 10 am –10 pm. Admission. 1701 Valley View Dr., 205-933-1409. visitvulcan.com ❖

For more information, visit inbirmingham.com

Vulcan’s Love Interest

Everybody knows Vulcan. He’s modeled after the mythical god of the fire and forge. He’s Birmingham’s most famous landmark. He’s the largest cast iron statue in the world. He watches over the city from his post on Red Mountain. Hardly a visitor comes to Birmingham without stopping in to see Vulcan. Or at least to cast an interested gaze toward his prominent position on the mountain.

Vulcan’s sometimes checkered history is a fascinating story in itself, but Birmingham’s downtown also is home to other statues, less famous perhaps than Vulcan but interesting nonetheless.

Sometimes rumored to be Vulcan’s sweetheart, Miss Electra crowns the Alabama Power Company building on North 18th Street. The shapely 16 ½ foot, cast bronze statue, coated with gold leaf, weighs 4,000 pounds, a mere statuette compared to Vulcan’s 56-foot, 120,000-pound frame. Legend goes that when the downtown streets need paving, it is because the great Iron Man has lumbered down from the mountain, ripping up city streets in his nocturnal quest to see his beloved Miss Electra.

Edward Field Sanford Jr., a New York sculptor, designed Miss Electra, which was completed in 1925. She holds aloft sheaves of lightning bolts, symbolizing the progress of Alabama electrified. Miss Electra is one of only a handful of statues its size applied to American architectural design.