Exotica magazine july 2015 by Exotica Magazine

EXOTICA

VOL 9 NO 9

JULY 2015

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EDITOR’S L E

rom Jalaluddin Akbar to Jawaharlal Nehru, rulers of India have been passionately in love with the Kashmir Valley, and for good reason. To call it Switzerland of the East not only betrays our pathetic Eurocentrism, but also does grave injustice to the unspoilt canvas of nature that lends Kashmir an ethereal touch. In fact, the couplet “Gar firdaus bar-rue zamin ast/Hamin ast, hamin ast, hamin ast” (If there be a paradise on Earth, it is this, it is this…)” is undoubtedly more apt to describe Kashmir than comparing it to Switzerland. I first set foot in Kashmir as a schoolboy, almost 50 years ago. India and Pakistan had even at that stage fought two wars, both specifically for control over the state. Then too it was a charming and verdant place and violence was unimaginable. I have since visited Kashmir many times, more often as a journalist covering terrorism and near-insurrection than as a tourist. Each time the state appeared peaceful on the surface, but it could take just one incident to trigger turbulence. A few years ago, the Shopian incident took place just as we were concluding an idyllic visit, which included picturesque Gulmarg and awesome Pahalgam. Next day, a bandh was called and our journey to the airport was tense as we drove through deserted streets, Army barricades everywhere, with the occasional vehicle set on fire. Last month, I returned to the magnificent Valley on a short business trip. Pleasantly surprised to have been accorded the status of State Guest by the ever-hospitable Chief Minister Mufti Mohammad Sayeed, I was accommodated at Hari Niwas, the state’s VIP guest house next to the sprawling Lalit Palace

E R

Dal Lake as seen from Hari Niwas

Chief Designer Anand Singh Rawat Senior Designer Santosh Kumar Yadav Pre-press Manager Syed Nawab Raza Production Manager Dhiresh Gaur Staff photographer Pankaj Kumar

[CHANDAN MITRA]

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Mumbai Office General Manager Devendra Adhikari 09867575933 Senior Manager Jaya Mokal Kolkata Office Vice President Suzanna Roy 09830197332 Chief Manager Arindam Gupta General Manager (Circulation) Rajeev Gautam

DISTRIBUTED BY: LIVING MEDIA INDIA LIMITED Printed and published by Chandan Mitra for and on behalf of CMYK Printech Ltd, printed at Lustra Print Process Pvt Ltd, Killa No. 51/21, Village: Rohad, District: Jhajjar, Bahadurgarh, Haryana and published at 2nd floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi 110002. Editor: Chandan Mitra. Entire Contents Copyright (C) 2006 CMYK Printech Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in any language in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Requests for permission should be directed to CMYK Printech Ltd. Opinions carried in Exotica are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CMYK Printech Ltd. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the return of unsolicited material or for material lost or damaged in transit. All correspondence should be addressed to CMYK Printech Ltd; 2nd Floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Phone: 23718296/40754136 Fax: 23755275 Email: exotica.pioneer@gmail.com

COVER PHOTO: RINKU GHOSH

Editor Chandan Mitra Editorial board Vice-chairman & joint managing director Amit Goel Chief Executive Officer Abhishek Saxena 09818600128 Editor-in-charge Rinku Ghosh Managing Editor Navneet Mendiratta Consulting Editor Ritu Pandey

STILL A JANNAT

Hotel where I have stayed on umpteen occasions. Hari Niwas, built under the tender, loving gaze of Maharaja Hari Singh for his queen is indeed a spectacular building overlooking the Dal Lake. The interiors, including the gigantic staircase, is entirely wood panelled and every piece of furniture in the palace spells luxury. It’s wonderful to scour the Lal Chowk area on a bandh-free day. Kashmiri shopkeepers are among the world’s most persuasive salesmen and rarely allow a customer to leave their premises without loading them with a host of purchases, many of which the visitors might not have wished to buy — such is the skill of their silken tongue! Just before the Shopian incident threw the Valley into a tailspin, Srinagar had become a bustling city. In fact, you could see young couples and even single girls walking about fearlessly. A coffee shop, Arabica, did brisk business and reminded me of the coffee houses of yore. Although that has shut, I was pleasantly surprised to find a Café Coffee Day outlet in the heart of the city with seating arrangements extending to its open-air lawn. The chief minister hosted a lavish dinner that night, sort of a mini-Wazwan. I found no trace of tension on the visage of the Mufti, who is walking a political tightrope, leading a government in alliance with the BJP. When I left his official residence, I realised I, too, had been touched by his abundant optimism for the state. Indeed, for India’s and Kashmir’s sake, I hope peace prevails and the spiral of violence comes to an early end. “Heaven of Earth” deserves to be a haven of tranquility and prosperity. And so will it be. Inshallah!

CONTENTS JULY

2015

VOLUME

EATOUT Seasonal fresh p22 Travel Silk Route to Yunnan p36

FEATURES:

Decor Touch of green p12

People Connected by the cause p34

Fashion Scarf ace p14

‘HEALTH IS A BIG Festivities Say thank you p16 Wellness Time to revitalise p20 Culture That 70s show p26 Studio Happy feet p30 Authorspeak Join the dots p32

FACTOR WHEN IT COMES TO PLANNING OUT MENUS. PEOPLE ARE CONSCIOUS ABOUT THEIR CALORIE IN-TAKE’ SUMIT GOYAL, GASTRONOMICA TOTAL NUMBER OF PAGES 92 INCLUDING COVER

OUR PARTNER HOTELS

Wideangle Dublin dazzle p66 Drinks White summer spirit p76 Gadgets Tech track p79 DocTalk Foods for gorgeous skin p80 Adventure Wheels & vista p86

INSHORT

ost-vacation hangover is making it difficult for a lot many of us to get back to routine. The heat and humidity making it worse. To allow your dream mode to last a little longer, in this issue, we treat you to some exotic travel tales from faraway lands. We bring you a culture story from Kunming in China as the country opens up its tourism bouquet to Southeast and South Asia; and a photo-essay from Dublin, the Irish capital that is effortlessly balancing its centuries-old history full of beautiful castles and cathedrals with its modern avatar. Taking you back to the 70s is our piece on how we are reviving the yesteryears nostalgia of individualism,

JULY JAM

NAVNEET MENDIRATTA navneetmendiratta@gmail.com

rock & roll and bell bottoms. In the real time, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to submit yourself to some more pampering (check out our wellness options), indulge in retail therapy (scarves, we tell you, are the new style statement) and eat your heart out at some exciting spaces. In our wellness segment, our guest doctors guide you to be beautiful inside out. Read their take on what foods to eat for gorgeous skin and how to manage your oral health. After all nothing can diffuse your worries faster than a killer of a smile. Sports enthusiasts have an adventure activity to participate in. Our shout out on the cycling event to be held end of this month. This, and a lot more in this issue. Happy reading!

O U R C O L U M N I S T S Education must arm youth with life skills to fulfill not only their own dreams but also that of their society and the world, says spiritual guru Sri Sri Ravi Shankar

EXOTICA / JULY 2015

Sommelier Magandeep Singh brings you a few lovely, bright (white) variants to help put the colour back in those cheeks

It is time you paid attention to the interplay between what you eat and how you look, says dermatologist Dr Kiran Lohia

THELITTLEBLACKBOOK F A V O U R I T E

H A U N T S

O F

S T Y L I S H

P E O P L E

I have a fetish for jewellery. I absolutely adore detailed and rare objects of art. I not only love designing them, I also love collecting and wearing them.

Sangeeta Dewan, Senior Design Consultant with ZOYA, a chain of luxury diamond boutiques from the House of Tata

Paris is a mecca for shoppers. Having lived there for long, I enjoy shopping in the city. Specially at Zara, which is chic, stylish and fashionable.

Fashion brand I like experimenting with different fashion brands because I love different looks and styles Accessory I am always surrounded by jewellery. So for me, the most important accessory has to be earrings.

Vacation spot Has to be Paris. I love it for its cosmopolitan and eclectic culture.

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Watches I love wearing Van Cleef and Arpels. They are absolutely gorgeous.

Winter brunch One great place for a winter brunch in Delhi is The Claridges hotel. In Paris, Le Fumoir is my favourite winter refuge.

I have the largest collection of... shoes. Mostly high heels. But I have no favourites. Comfort and style is what comes first.

DECOR

A touchof

green Planters add colour to dour corners of the house. But a little care and regular maintenance are a must

by BUBBLE BATRA

he best way to bring nature into your house is by growing a variety of plants. You can choose from a vast collection of planters available in the market in different shapes and sizes. These need very little maintenance besides regular cleaning. We give you some tips. o Care should be taken to take the plants out of the planters at least once a month and clean them inside out. Check for any dust lodged in the crevices. o Most planters have double potting with the drainage hole in the inner pot. Care should be taken not to water the plants in excess, which may result in the water leaking into the planter and making the wood damp and smelly. o If a planter is kept in a dark or dingy corner of the house, it should be inspected for unwanted growth of mildew and fungus. o In case there are any metal embellishments on the planter, they should be polished regularly to maintain the sheen. o If you have used pebbles and boulders in the planter, remove the plant once in a while and wash the decorations. o During monsoon, the plants have intensive growth spurts. Change the planter if necessary. Rains also bring along termites, cockroaches, and rodents. Make sure to clean the planters thoroughly and air them in the sun once in a while. With little care, an ordinary living space can be turned into an attractive one with just a dash of green. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The author is an interior designer and MD, One & Only Legendary Furniture

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Untitle

Untitled-1 13

02-04-2015 15:04:46

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14 EXOTICA / JULY 2015

WRAP AROUND: With a tank top, a big scarf tied around the waist works as a sarong when you’re out on the beach. WHO’S HUE? A scarf around the neck lends colour and distinction to a conservative business apparel. COVER UP: Throw a large, fringed scarf over your shoulders for the “just in case” layer should the temperature drop. CLASSIC CHIC: Bold sunglasses and a summer scarf over your hair is the perfect classic look.

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FESTIVITIES

DREE FESTIVAL: This agricultural festival of the Apatani tribe of Arunachal Pradesh is observed with sacrificial offerings and prayers to the gods who protect the crops. Womenfolk brew wine and visit homes of their relatives offering it as a gift. WHAT TO DO: Enjoy community feasts served with delicious rice/millet beer, folk songs, traditional dances, and other cultural performances. WHERE: Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh WHEN: July 4-7

SAYTHANKYOU Fasting and feasting, solemnity and celebration are the twin themes in July as you’re grateful for everything that you have in life

EID-UL-FITR: The end of Ramzan and the first day of the Islamic month of Shawwal marks the beginning of the next three days of thanksgiving. The festival begins with the sight of the new moon in the sky or chaand raat when people greet each other with “Eid Mubarak.” In the morning, mass prayers are held in mosques followed by family get-togethers over gifts and the customary feasting of sevaiyan. WHAT TO DO: Shop to your heart’s content and then try the lip-smacking Mughlai stuff at the all-night bazaars of Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi, Muhammed Ali Road in Mumbai, Aminabad and Chowk in Lucknow and Charminar in Hyderabad. WHERE: Across India, particularly in the Muslim- dominated cities such as Srinagar, Delhi, Meerut, Lucknow, Mumbai and Hyderabad. WHEN: July 18

FESTIVITIES

NABAKALEBAR RATH YATRA: The 12-day festival begins when Lord Jagannath, his elder brother Balabhadra and sister Subhadra leave their abode in Puriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jagannath Temple for an annual public appearance in towering chariots. This year, the festival is significant as the idols are being replaced with newly crafted ones (the last time this occurred was 19 years ago). WHAT TO DO: The Rath Yatra is the only occasion when non-Hindu devotees, who arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t allowed inside the temple, get a glimpse of the deities. Thousands throng the procession as merely a glimpse is considered auspicious enough to earn a passage to heaven. WHEN: July 18-30 WHERE: Jagannath Temple, Puri, Odisha

18 EXOTICA / JULY 2015

GURU PURNIMA: This full moon is the day of thanksgiving to anyone who has taught you something important in life. WHERE: All over India, particularly in spiritual centres such as Govardhan, near Mathura, and Sivananda Ashram, Rishikesh. WHEN: July 31

WELLNESS

YOUR TIME TO

REVITALISE What if you had a magic wand to rid you of your beauty woes? Here are a few therapies that offer more than just momentary relief, suggests NAVNEET MENDIRATTA

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WELLNESS

HAIRCARE

WORRY POINT: Frizzy hair THE THERAPY: Keratin Smoothening Treatment WHERE: Xpressions Salon, Delhi-NCR WHAT DOES IT DO: Have you been suffering frizzy hair for long? Keratin treatments available in the market are a great help when all your efforts to tame that mane with other products fail. This treatment brings to use Juvexin, a special blend of proteins and peptides optimised specifically to improve hair softness and reduce friction, enabling them to better withstand heat. In other words, it smoothens out curls to straight perfection so your hair looks visibly shinier and less damaged. Hate poker straight look? You can ask your stylist to give you a bounce at the crown and even get wavy effect minus the ironing. The stylists choose from two Keratin formulae (said to be formaldehyde-free) — virgin/ resistant and for chemicallytreated hair — to work out the best fix. Add to it the goodness of Moroccan oil and you walk out feeling like a diva. The treatment lasts anywhere between 12 to 36 weeks, depending on your hair quality. TIME TAKEN: Two-and-a-half to three hours.

FA C I A L R E S P I T E

WORRY POINT: Acne THE THERAPY: Advanced Acne Facial WHERE: Blossom Kochhar — Earth To Bottle Spalon, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi WHAT DOES IT DO: Dusty and muggy weather brings with it skin troubles, especially skin-break. So take a break from your regular moisturising formula when you go for facial and choose the one meant to provide relief to your troubled skin. This facial cleanses the acne/acne-prone skin using the advantage of specially designed aromatherapy products deep within and effectively treats breakouts, hyperpigmentation, pimples and scarring. It also helps clear the pores of excess oil and cellular debris and checks the formation of blemishes. Submit yourself to the expert hands of the therapist as she works this rich formulation of aloe vera juice, tocopherol, lavender, cucumber, neem, patchouli and tea tree on your face. The therapy is aimed at removing dead skin, soothing and hydrating it. You come back well-moisturised, brighter and restored. TIME TAKEN: One hour.

DESTRESS

WORRY POINT: Stress knots THE THERAPY: Aromatherapy Massage WHERE: Shvasa Spa, Hyatt Regency, Gurgaon WHAT IS IT: This is to smoothen out those stubborn knots in your back that have made home there thanks to all the stress you have been building inside your body, owing to cosmopolitan living. This therapy puts to good use the ancient art of aromatherapy and the healing powers of essential oils. Submit yourself to the therapist as she firmly kneads out stress from the troubled points of your body (especially shoulders and back) and activates its natural immune system. The aroma oil is especially formulated to uplift your senses with healing powers. This therapy is great for nourishing, soothing and purifying your body while creating a deep sense of relaxation. TIME TAKEN: One hour.

JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

With Delhi’s diners still favouring seasonal menus, it’s not yet goodbye summer in the Capital. Here’s a pick of those worth checking out by NAVNEET MENDIRATTA

RESH

A S E S

A L N F O INDIAN ACCENT THE MANOR

or long Chef Vivek Rana worked quietly with his mentor Manish Mehrotra, who took Indian fusion (and Old World Hospitality) to another level and carved a niche for himself in the global forum. And now when Mehrotra is busy setting up another Indian Accent in New York, Rana has made sure that the diners back home continue get the same experience. And accolades to him for bringing about a certain freshness to the menu. Rana has played beautifully with the seasonal and (as he puts it, wherever possible) organic ingredients and made sure that he tickles the palate in a beautiful manner. A note to those who find it difficult to choose from the exhaustive menu: ask for Chef ’s tasting menu paired with wines. Must try: Tamarind fish, coconut barley, cashew pakoda; stuffed morels, tandoori chicken, pink pepper malai curry; mashed new potato, black quinoa onion rings, boondi kadhi; the wasabi cucumber raita and yes, gobindo bhog kheer, nuts, sorbet, air-dried fruits. And, of course, there’s no way you can skip the mention of the fresh pomegranate and churan kulfi sorbet, served in a cute micro-mini pressure cooker. You so want to steal them and carry back home.

22 EXOTICA / JULY 2015

EATOUT

FIO COOKHOUSE & BAR EPICURIA, NEHRU PLACE ow they have come up with one creative menu that is beautifully spiked with seasonal summer fruits. Fio Cookhouse at Epicuria has played creatively with fresh ingredients and yet ensured that they remain light and do not bother the stomach in this drying heat. Interestingly, Fio has emerges as quite a favourite among diners at Epicuria â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a quick lunch place in the afternoon and a relaxed fine dining space by the night. To begin with, the drinks menu is a clever play of ingredients. How else do you explain a cocktail that mixes mango and pepper in vodka at

the same time or watermelon, midori and lime in rum? The food menu, too, is a fun mix. Salads that have hidden fruits in them, mains that surprise you with the fusion of vegetables cooked in Indian style and married to Mediterranean cuisine. The summer special dessert is another fruit treat. Must try: All. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a well-planned menu. We specially loved: Lettuce cup spiced pulled chicken, lychee and gorgonzola salad; bruschetta of raw papaya and mango salsa with shredded cheese; braised pommery mustard bitter gourd with rigatoni and mustard cream sauce; and green mango and mulberry cheese cake.

JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

EATOUT

SEVILLA THE CLARIDGES

GASTRONOMICA GREATER KAILASH-I ou know it’s going to be a special evening when the executive chef of a city’s leading five-star fine dining space curates the menu for you that is equally a teaser and a treat, playing even further with beautiful plating. But then, it is not for nothing that Sevilla at The Claridges earned for itself the tag of being the most romantic restaurant in India. The new Executive Chef Sahil Sabhlok has only made sure that the experience is a few notches higher. So apart from the regular menu, you now have a specially curated chef ’s menu that comes to you paired with a fine selection of wines. With ample choice for vegetarians, meat and fish eaters, each dish on this menu is designed such to capture an exotic range of flavours, textures and aromas from core ingredients. The menu is revised every month. We loved: watermelon, thyme smoked, dehydrated berries, goat cheese, balsamic caviar; White asparagus, truffled green asparagus foam, quail egg, pangrattato (served with Spanish Torres Vina Sol); heirloom tomatoes, gnochetti, sweet basil, black olive sponge; Himalayan trout, shrimp mousse, seafood nage (served with Italian Corte Giara Valpolicella) and summer berries, creme patisserie and mango.

24 EXOTICA / JULY 2015

his one comes from a man who is a great chef and a foodie. Gastronomica by Sumit Goyal is a great hangout place with an equally cool food and drinks menu in a buzzing market space. Cleverly designed using a lot of wood against bare brick walls interiors, a quiet little balcony space and comfortable seating, it’s the sort of place you’d want to head to for a lazy lunch or after work drinks. In short, unwind. The food menu’s also designed such — it’s a mix of Pan-Asian, European and Indian cuisine (confused sorts, take your pick). There is a clear focus on finger food and quick bites, so it’s easier for you

EATOUT

EMBASSY CONNAUGHT PLACE

n 1948, just a year after India got independence, friends PN Malhotra and GK Ghai, who arrived in Delhi from Karachi, set up in a small restaurant in Connaught Place, the heart of the city. With few places to entertain in the area back then, Embassy, as it was called, soon became a popular hangout, hosting everyone from the likes of Lord Mountbatten to the newly minted citizenry. Its business credentials too grew fast — regulars would put “9.30 a.m. to 11.00 a.m. Embassy Restaurant” on their visiting cards. Since 2014, when a fire gutted the place, it is managed by Kumar Savar Malhotra. And the third generation has ensured that the revamped Embassy harmonises its vintage warmth with a contemporary feel to appeal to both the regulars as well as the millennials. The menu retains old favourites like Dal Gosht — mutton pieces in dry urad dal with the strong taste of ginger; Tomato Fish with new innovations like Green Chicken (in cilantro-mint sauce). The sweet and sour tomato fish — sole fillet topped with tomato concasse sauce — is something one just can’t get enough of. The fish tikkas too are spicy and succulent. Especially recommended is Crème a la Embassy, a pudding filled with whipped cream, raisins, fruits and brandy. It’s a sinful pleasure. — Ritu Pandey

to handle your drinks and conversation even as you quell your hunger pangs. Must try: Quinoa Bhel, Tandoori Quail, Seafood Popcorn, Chipotle Chicken Tikka, Wasabi Chicken Tikka, handtossed and woodfired pizzas and pasta. The European options include Crepes, Veal Steaks, Lamb Chops and Tenderloin Medallions. Those who want something Oriental can ask for their special dimsum menu or order mains, including black pepper tenderloin and stir fried spring greens. And those who must have their daal roti can ask for a pot meal or a stuffed tandoori kulcha.

JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

CULTURE

That 70s’

show Individualism, rock & roll and bell bottoms — it’s back to the past once again by RITU PANDEY

n a bid to promote ecotourism in the temple town of Rishikesh, the Uttarakhand government is planning to renovate the town’s rundown Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram with a special focus on reviving its Beatles link. In 1968, the legendary pop band spent nearly two months at the ashram learning Transcendental Meditation from the Maharishi and used the experience to compose most of their White Album. However, the trip was a disaster and the ashram lies abandoned since. But that’s another story. Turns out Beatles weren’t the only English music legends strolling Indian streets around then. In 1972, Rock icons Led Zepellin performed at the now defunct Mumbai (then Bombay) bar called Slip Disc — making personal as well as rock history. Apparently, pleased at the relative

CULTURE

Beatles members with their wives and Mahesh Yogi in Rishikesh; Jimmy Page and Robert Plant perform

anonymity that the unfamiliar city afforded them, guitarist Jimmy Page and vocalist Robert Plant left their staid Taj hotel bar for a quiet drink at the neighbouring bar where “hippies were not allowed.” According to the incident that’s now Indian rock lore, they were taken in only at the insistence of a local. The duo sat there while a local band performed but soon took over the drums and the guitar and went on to jam for over an hour. The next night, there was a queue outside the bar but the musicians didn’t return. This apart, the rockers also used the trip to record Bombay Sessions, a fusion version of their songs Friends and Four Sticks with saarangi maestro Ustad Sultan Khan and flautist Pt Vijay Raghav Rao. The recordings, which were never released then, as they sounded “too stoned”, are now being officially released by the band on July 31 as part of the remastered versions of their final three studio albums: Presence (1976), In Through The Out Door (1979) and Coda (1982).

CULTURE

TWO WAYS ABOUT IT t could be a coincidence that two important musical events from a common time span are making reverberations today but few would disagree that other than the 40s — the decade of the freedom struggle — it’s the 70s that tug at the collective Indian imagination like no other decade in recent history. One may ask why. Globally, the 70s was a decade of the end of innocence, individualism and a naive burning desire to change the world. It manifested itself in women’s lib, hippies in search of nirvana, uninhibited sexual and fashion experimentation, drug abuse and rock & roll. For Midnight’s Children however, the process of self-discovery arrived amidst a war, mill closures, industrial strikes, labour unrest, supplies shortage, rising unemployment and the

Emergency. “For those who experienced it, it was a deeply traumatic period in Indian history,” said journalist Kuldeep Nayyar at the launch of journalist Coomi Kapoor’s The Emergency: A Personal History, coinciding with the 40th anniversary of what journalist Swapan Dasgupta referred to as a “watershed moment for India.” So even as youth elsewhere grew their hair, put on bellbottoms, got high and picked up guitars, in India the process of freedom from old values paved the way for student unrest and rebellious creative experiments. Rage became the national sentiment, captured well by both the mainstream and new wave cinema. The idealism of the freedom struggle gave birth to the idea of a vigilante hero who fought for the exploited and Amitabh Bachchan as the Angry Young Man became a youth icon.

The cover of Coomi Kapoor’s The Emergency: A Personal History; Amitabh Bachchan as the Angry Young Man

CULTURE

Stills from Khoobsoorat remake and the original; Models in jumpsuits at the NY Fashion Week

POP GOES CULTURE owever, for a generation born post-70s, the decade and its global connotations mean little. Here and there, elements of pop culture make an impression creating lasting nostalgia. Explains why Rock and heavy metal — byproducts of the 70s counter-culture in the West — have hardly lost favour despite all technological interventions. In India, the same holds true for the 70s music and cinema — both are said to have the “most loyal followers” who offer them regular tributes in the form of remakes (think Don, Sholay) and remixes (think RD Burman). A revival of sorts is also being seen of the 70s retro fashion. Sweeping bell bottoms, maxi dresses, harem jumpsuits, polka dots, fringe accents, cat eyes, which were first seen as a Fall/Winter 2015 trend at the NY Fashion Week, are making waves in India too. Lizzy Bowring of trend forecaster WGSN is reported to have told Reuters, “What you are seeing is the Bohemian side of the 70s. The look is much closer to the body, more streamlined and elegant than we’ve seen before.” Says Sandeep Khosla of designer duo AbuSandeep, who open the winter edition of Lakme Fashion Week 2015 from August 25. “Our opening line is all-white but has newer silhouettes

and innovations in embroidery. It’s very 70s-80s.” Lest you start looking for any profundity in this wistfulness, blogger Keki Doshi points out, “The nostalgia is only among the people who were a part of that period in some way. For the rest, the events of their own times are more interesting than things that happened 40 years ago. The past just offers good creative inspiration to sing, dance and look cool. An example of which is the remake of the 1980’s Khoobsurat. The original had the best of the 70s — Rekha, RD Burman and a smart and subtle analogy on the Emergency. But the makers of the Sonam Kapoor-starrer couldn’t get beyond the clothes, songs and the stars since they couldn’t fathom the ingenuity of the plot and its context.”

JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

STUDIO

HAPPY FEET Are you paying too much for sub-standard footwear? Designer RONNIE KHANNA lists the trends and tells you what to look for while buying by NAVNEET MENDIRATTA nyone with even a faint idea of styling would agree that shoes are an essential image tool that one can’t go wrong with. A good pair is the make or break factor of smart dressing. Interestingly, though India is one of the largest export hubs for shoe manufacturing, hardly any indigenous brand has a high street presence. But with the present governmen’t focus on Make in India, several home-grown players are trying to break out of that norm — if only in the domestic market. The brain behind one such brand, Saint G, Ronnie Khanna hands out tips to pick the right pair of shoes.

International trends, local flavour o for something that reflects local flavours. “The shoe buyers working in India pick up their styles from manufacturers at international shoe fairs and import designs. We instead pick up our own styles that suit the tastes of

STUDIO

MUST-HAVES IN YOUR SHOE RACK FLATS: Pick up an embroidered shoe to make a statement. Heat crystals are the next big thing.

the domestic market and customise them in terms of colour and comfort,” he says. At present, colours like aqua are in demand as are embroideries that reflect Indian sensibilities. The other big trend is shoes adorned with heat-pressed crystals that last.

More than a shoe that fits shoe must be comfortable. And that comfort comes from the sole. Many customers prefer to wear rubber for the sheer comfort it provides but the feel of leather is something else. Leather takes the texture of your foot and adapts beautifully to it. “I worked in the factory for two years as a merchandiser. That is where I learnt all about the shoes — from the sole to how the shoe is made, styling, coding and trends,” he says. Make sure to check the label. European standards make it mandatory for labels to mention the material used for upper, base and sole in clear terms. It would also help you know if you are paying the right

OXFORD SHOES: You may wear a pair once in a 100 days but it is a must for formal wear. DOUBLE-STRAPPED SANDLES: They make for great day-to-day wear. FUSE BED SHOES: Fuse beds are made for walking, especially in India. They are your perfect comfort shoes. HEELS: Choose a pair that suits your style. A pair of good heels is a must for your wardrobe.

WHEN BUYING A PAIR OF SHOES, LOOK OUT FOR A STICKER THAT DEFINES WHAT THE UPPER AND THE SOLE ARE MADE OF. ALWAYS LOOK AT IT AND THEN JUDGE THE PRICE

price for the right quality.

Price positioning good pair of Khanna’s kind of shoes costs anywhere between `2,500 to `5,000. “Our typical client is 25 plus. This is the group that shops for branded high street wear and appreciates international sensibilities,” he adds. The price tag is usually a combination of four key factors: materials, workmanship, supplydemand dynamics and psychology. Leather is costly because it is processed by hand at every stage of production. Not only is pure leather treated and dyed by hand, tanneries also use the most expensive and high quality dyes. Craftsmen use either full-grain (the entire thickness of the hide) or topgrain leather (the top layer of the hide). This results in a more durable shoe. At present, Khanna operates out of Delhi’s Hauz Khas Village but retails worldwide online.

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AUTHORSPEAK

JOIN THE DOTS s the designer of landmark buildings such as Delhi’s Akshardham temple, Patna’s Buddha Smriti Park and Sarnath’s Nichgatsuzan Horinji Buddhist Temple, Dr Vikram Lall has always had a spiritual leaning. But the Delhibased architect decided to delve deeper when a decade ago he set out to study the philosophical context of Buddhist monuments of yore. Travelling across Asia, Lall has spent the past several years researching Buddhist buildings. Early this year, he released Architecture of the Buddhist World: The Golden Lands, the first volume in his series of six books. THE RESEARCH My work tries to understand the utilitarian and aesthetic meaning of buildings and how it has been shaped by the philosophies and practices of Buddhism. It was more than just decoding individual monuments, it was like reading a novel. The idea was to bring to readers the narrative of the evolution of architecture, with plots and sub-plots. I intended exploring the origins of architecture in India and its travel to other countries along with the monks and recording

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Architect-author VIKRAM LALL reinterprets the esotericism of monasteries, stupas and pagodas in his latest book Architecture of the Buddhist World: The Golden Lands

by RITU PANDEY

the transformation and the changes in those countries. Along with the rebirths and reincarnations of the monks, as they say in Buddhism. So I also travelled like those monks to about 20 countries in the past 10 years, collecting and documenting architectural data on Buddhist monuments to understand the technique and philosophy behind their design and bring it all together in a comprehensive manner. But beyond my primary survey, I got to locate my work within the ongoing discourse on Buddhist philosophy and archaeology, which became a bigger learning for me. PARTS & PARCEL Buddhist thoughts and rituals have interacted with local traditions across Asia to produce masterpieces of religious architecture. But studying all these monuments together, which spanned almost 2,000 years, and understanding the narratives and mega narratives emerging from them for one book was not easy. So I’ve tried to do comparative studies over large terrains with a shared cultural heritage which are not constrained by nation-state boundaries. The studies of these cultural landscapes have been divided into six volumes.

AUTHORSPEAK

Architecture of the Buddhist World: The Golden Lands is the first volume and is based on Southeast Asian countries — Myanmar, Vietnam, Indonesia, Cambodia, Thailand and Laos. The second volume on China, Korea and Japan is in production. The third is on the Indic region, including India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Afghanistan and Sri Lanka. The fourth and the fifth volumes respectively are on the mountains and the Silk Route. And the last volume is on the modern world and the manifestations of Buddhism there. The Western world has adopted Buddhism aggressively and it is doing all kinds of things with it. In India, too, we see a neo-Buddhism emerging. I want to look at how these things manifest in architecture. TECHNICAL EDGE I’ve looked at the architectural dimensions of buildings not in terms of traditional drawings of planks, elevations and sections but by converting that data into real and live 3D architectural models with the help of drawings and photographs by the world’s top 10 photographers. So you can get a better understanding of the buildings and how they evolved from the mundane to a superstructure. The architectural details also trace the evolution of forms and spaces in response to

PHOTOS: PANKAJ KUMAR

geographical distinctions, changing ideas, material realities and building traditions of Southeast Asia. So you get to understand the Buddhist world within a holistic framework. DIFFERENCES IN ARCHITECTURE Buddhist architecture is different in different regions. That’s because Buddhist influences co-existed and synthesised with local traditions instead of imposing themselves to transform existing architectural norms into something else that would have been alien to that part of the world. This explains the vast differences in Buddhist architecture in various regions. HISTORY OF INDIA In India, most Buddhist monuments are in ruins. But fortunately, they have found a home in many Asian countries. And, therefore, to understand the history of architecture in India, you have to actually study them there. I remember once Dr Kapila Vatsyayan told the Vietnamese ambassador that the battle of the Indian identity is not going to be fought on Indian soil, it is going to be fought in Vietnam. And you can’t risk disagreeing with her when you see 400 monuments of Indian inspiration dotting the coastline of Vietnam or 4,000 monuments just in Bagan, Myanmar. Indians better wake up to this heritage. And I hope my book could play a small role in it.

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PEOPLE

Put together by four strong women, Purnam is doing more than just connecting people and creating employment avenues. They share their journey by NAVNEET MENDIRATTA very year, since 2006, Purnam has been putting together exhibitions that provide a platform to a mix of exhibitors — designers and brands that drive lifestyle trends along with artisans who may not have an organised means to sell — and open them to an unlimited number of buyers they would not meet otherwise.

How they met The four of us — Saroj Bhatia, Indu Gupta, Jani Dhingra and Sarita Baluja — met in 1994 at

Akshay Pratishthan. We have been active volunteers with the NGO and are responsible for putting together their fund-raising exhibitions and cultural programmes. Birth of a cause While organising the exhibitions at Akshay Pratishthan, we realised that we could take this initiative forward by putting together more such events that give others a platform to showcase their talent and grow their businesses. We had some time to ourselves and the ideas

CONNECTED BY A CAUSE

PEOPLE

Purnam co-founders Jani Dhingra, Sarita Baluja, Saroj Bhatia and Indu Gupta at work

were pouring in. An opportunity came our way from Ludhiana to organise something similar there. We did our first show from Purnam in 2006 at the Rotary Bhawan in Ludhiana. A part of the proceeds was donated to Nirdosh, a school for mentally challenged children. Not only was the exhibition a grand success, it created a lot of awareness on what the Inner Wheel wing of the Rotary Club does and led to large donations from corporate houses and individuals towards Nirdosh. We continued to hold these exhibitions in Ludhiana and spread out to Chandigarh and Jalandhar and were now also supporting more NGOs such as the Guild For Service and Sudhinalaya in Delhi. In 2010, we did our first exhibition in Delhi and in 2011 our first in Dubai. It has been an enriching journey so far. NGOs Purnam is associated with With this edition, we have on board three NGOs — Akshay Pratishthan, Guild For Service and Samast Samarpan Foundation — that will be putting up stalls. Akshay Pratishthan runs a school where an integrated group of children, able-bodied as well as differently abled, study and play together. The Guild For Service is a national

voluntary developmental organisation dedicated towards the empowerment of marginalised women and children and Samast Samarpan Foundation is an NGO working for the Gulgulia community of Jharkhand and West Bengal. A platform for exhibitors and artisans At Purnam, we put together lifestyle exhibitions that are a kaleidoscope of creative talent from all over the country — be it a known label from the metros or an artisan from a small city. At any given outing, we have at least 80-90 exhibitors. Purnam goes overseas It was in 2011 that we organised a very successful exhibition called “Fashionista” in Dubai. It was a beautiful learning experience. Two women from Dubai, who had been to our exhibitions here, approached us to organise one there. We thought it would be great for our exhibitors from different parts of India to be able to showcase their products on an international platform. It was like taking an Indian contingent of entrepreneurs abroad and that made us so proud. Our latest exhibition will be held on July 22, 2015 at The Ashok, New Delhi.

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k l i S e Th

o t e t u Ro

Yu nn an

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China is opening up its tourism bouquet to Southeast and South Asia. Kunming is a pivot of this larger cultural journey along its historic trade route of caravans and gems. RINKU GHOSH makes the pitstops

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pparently, Yunnan province, long held as the backseater in China’s gravy train of development, is mostly known for its cultural oddities. Some are known to everybody. Like tea sold as tablets, bamboo huts used as wok lids, cars being faster than trains and young girls being called “old ladies,” maybe out of affection or to ward off the evil eye. An oddball in this ancient seat of trade and learning, I find some of my own. A walk around the neighbourhood market district of Kunming reveals rows and rows of shops selling safes, some bigger than a double-door refrigerator. The roads — each making space for a two-wheeler lane — are full of the quirkiest e-bikes with sun roofs hoisted over them. Vendors sell insect repellant mixes and sachets with a loudspeaker fitted to the sidecar of a scooter (they still have the door-to-door hawker). People overdo some mushrooms to kill toxins, undercook others to stop the poison. And whether to cure your indigestion or give you one, there’s a toilet-themed restaurant (yes you sit on a designer poop bowl). But then there’s the cute love story in the speciality called cross-bridge noodles to work up your appetite. Once upon a time a scholar was studying hard for his exams on a small island. His wife would bring him his favourite noodles every day. Within a few days she found that by the time she had crossed the bridge to the island, the soup would turn cold and the noodles soggy. She then decided to fill a large earthen pot with boiling broth and a layer of oil on top to insulate and warm it. The noodles and other ingredients were kept in a separate container, and when she arrived, she mixed the two containers together for a warm soup. Oddities are not what you consciously look for when you are doing mainland China, so layered and complex behind all the showboarding of aspirational skylines, the dazzle of wealth and the lure of a tech-driven future.

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(Clockwise) The aspirant skyline of Kunming; the Green Lake, now an art and culture hub; a wood-carving artiste at work, e-bike with sun shade; the decade-lasting flowers by KIFA; elderly orchestra at Green Park

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But in a city like Kunming, rooted in the past and recast for the future, you not only cross bridges, temporal and terrestrial, you also cross cultures and sub-cultures. It continues into Ruili, the border boom town of Yunnan province that shares the fertile plains of Myanmar on the other side. We are served Emperor’s rice here, the best and the most flavourful there is. There are pickles and steamed delicacies enfolded in banana leaves, the rice absorbing their lush goodness and heat and for a moment transporting us to similar coastal and riverine food of our east. Imagine steamed spinach and pumpkin with a dash of oil. The Jingpo dancers entertain us with the clatter of their

metallic bracelets and neckpieces, their simple steps and colourful fans ultimately enticing us to join in. And suddenly, a motley group of guests from faraway lands joins the dragon tail of exuberance and forms a merry chain of revellers, drowning in the moment. “We have a folk dance where we form a ring around a fire and let it go round and round in circles with everybody joining in. That inclusiveness is our mantra,” says our local host. Inclusiveness is at the heart of China’s new gateway diplomacy, whereby it attempts to nullify the geopolitical clamour over borders and territorial might with a new borderless trade conglomeration that benefits

(Above) Crossbridge noodles and (below) a traditional tea ceremony;on the road to Ruili

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The food of Yunnan absorbs tropical influences from Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia. Pumpkin, corn and farm produce feature in every table. Then there are river fish and floral salads.

everybody including itself, by invoking the spirit of the Silk Route. China had four historical silk routes or corridors, both overland and maritime, whereby it traded silk, gemstones and all forms of portable resources (they even compressed tea into tablets) for other scarce necessities, through Eurasia, Southeast, South Asia and Africa. The early pioneers, particularly in combination with India’s own spice route, subsequently became a controller of the world economy by exporting its inventions such as paper, wheel barrow and farm tools. Modern China today, weighed down by its sluggish manufacturing engine, slow growth and a saturated economy, is looking to stay relevant in the race for economic imperialism by tying up with historical “friends and neighbours” once again. China claims that for thousands of years, the Silk Road Spirit — peace and cooperation, openness and inclusiveness, mutual respect, learning and mutual benefit, cultural enrichment of ideas — has been passed from generation to generation and promoted the progress of human civilisation, heightening prosperity and development of all countries along the trade corridor. It is resurfacing at Kunming.

THE CUP OF TEA SPILLETH OVER t is usual for Chinese cities to follow Beijing and Shanghai as a template. But be it in the architecture or the languid flow of life, Kunming shows it is different. Yes there are the tony shopping hubs, the outlandish skyscrapers and darting freeways. But in between are the quaint city forests, a green corridor with pebbled walkways, manicured gardens, pristine pergolas and still pools. These run unhindered and unfenced between blocks of upmarket housing and the main road, connecting multi-storeyed entities into a community of common citizenry. Go for a jog, and should you feel like picking up some stuff for the home, just head out of the exit gates hidden in Alice in Wonderland-like hedges, each of them neatly marked with pointers on the shortest walking route. These urban retreats are as much a haven for texting lovers as for elders watching their next move in mahjong. The inter-generational casualness is most visible at the Green Lake, a promenade around a 17th century water reservoir connected by traditional bridges. Strewn with cafes, makeshift bazaars, art hubs and an opera, it is a smart blend of tradition and modernity. Elders

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do the tai chi or play traditional musical instruments on the banks of the lotus pool, drawing inspiration from nature as it were. Youngsters, who find the tai chi too slow, have now switched over to flash dance and pop or rock. A few grannies do both, a delightfully heartwarming sight. But it is the tea-drinking which is still observed as a ceremony with gravitas. Tea drinking involves each of the five senses. The tea drinker savours the colour, fragrance and finally the taste of the tea, at the same time listening to the swirling of the brew in the cup and feeling the warmth of the filled cup. This heightened, almost meditative state of mind was the reason that teahouses began as sanctuaries for sharing ideas. We sit in the tea house, switching off mobiles and in absolute silence. The tea master walks in with serene grace, resting her porcelain hands on the table. And then she does her choreographed moves. She pours in the hot water over the long tea leaves, swirling it around, rotating a half-open lid above it. The porcelain glaze takes away the tannins while the controlled exposure allows the tea leaves to breathe. The tea masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hands shiver just a little. Brewing a perfect cup is akin to a birthing process; tea is born in that tiny white

Through the window of our SUV on the expressway to Ruili

bowl. In between her swirls, she smells the leaves to check for aroma. Once done, she pours the brew in a bowl to her right, which she again empties into a neat array of smaller tea cups. No matter what the number of cups, a good tea master will manage to fill all to the same level and not fall short! Before you sip, you are to tap the table lightly, acknowledging her expertise. And then have three rounds. The first sip is fragrant, subtle, smooth, happy and calming. The second

The business district, once bustling with caravans, inns and bazaars, as seen from the Ruili land port

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is bitter and stronger. The last is totally bland and tasteless. Then she speaks like a Zen master. “Tea drinking is nothing but a metaphor for the three stages of life. The first sip is about happiness and innocence, the second represents challenges and hurdles and the third equilibrium, where the taste is neutral.” It is after the third round that we are allowed to be human again, attendants lining up rolled rice pastries with shaved chestnut. And

while we come down to teatime as we know it, the tea bar opens, infusing tea with a host of floral jams and preserves. After leaves, we find virtue in flowers. Chenggong, once known as the flower county of China and nestled between a hill and lake, is a multi-level city with a subway beneath the road we are zipping on, belly-skidding its way downtown. The traditional pagoda marries modern facades to give this pilot project a bit of historicity while a designated green belt demolishes all argument that the environment is being compromised in this beehive move to urbanisation. The Yunnan flower, comprising a range of rose, aqua, Angelina, Baby Love, White Naomi, Déjà Vu and Glory Days (yes all patented names), is now a brand and registered under the trademark of KIFA (Kunming International Floral Auction). With its high quality cold chain, storage, packaging, logistics and service delivery system under one roof, it sells 200,000 flowers every day through a fair price auction. KIFA growers have developed a technique that preserves the aromatic freshness in dried flowers for ten years! And they have a floral tea for every ailment, even for lowering blood pressure. There are exotic seeds and plants to be carried

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back. And just in case walking around this gigantic flower market tires you out, just step into the 28th floor skyway restaurant next to Dianchi lake. And surrender to chef Sunil, a Nepalese trained in India, who worked quite a name in Singapore from where he was picked up for the top job. He can rustle up poppadums, dal, spicy fish curry and the works. THE GEM OF RUILI hina, for all its aggressive moves veering round growth and strategy, has bet big on the subtle and more internecine use of cultural diplomacy to win hearts. And minds. There are more pagodas on the Chinese side of the border than its neighbour Myanmar at Ruili, the border boom town of Yunnan. The ownership or appropriation of the Buddhist legacy is the

cornerstone of every cultural agenda. It begins with the architecture of every institution dotting the revived Silk Road. Be it offices, convention centres or terminals, each astutely incorporates features of ASEAN countries and symbolises harmonious ethnic groups, a sign of cultural contiguity that China is using to build goodwill. A Dai village on the Sino-Myanmar border at Ruili is the latest showpiece of China’s “peaceful borders with one village, one community,” a subtle way of covering up the conflicted territoriality that shared boundaries always throw up in the South Asian region. A common road runs through, people on either side get married to each other, participate in festivities, share the village well, exchange garden fruits and vegetables while children swing back and forth, touching the ground on the Chinese side for lift-off and arching

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(Clockwise) Jingpo dancers, building facades of Ruili keep to old world aesthetics, a culture show at Ruili and (below) the Menghuan pagoda lords over Mangshi city

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Ruili port with Myanmar on the other side, a Dai showcase hut and Wanding town

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their head backwards as they curve into the air over a Myanmarese barn. The PLA soldiers, too, shed their customary stiffness here and pose for a picture or two. This is a boutique village, with Dai wooden cottages, farmers’ paintings on facades, corncob clusters adorning bamboo poles, artisans carving wood and a 103-year-old woman wishing well for every visitor. “I have lived my life very well. Hope you live yours too,” she says, reclining on a couch with her family surrounding her. The Dais live very simply, usually sparse, but their kitchen is a room in itself. This is a sylvan agricultural setpiece, a deliberate construct respecting a traditional system of life, rather than supplanting its ethos or homogenising it with townhouses and electric bikes. It displays an “acquired” sensitivity that has been so far missing from China’s self-aggrandisement tendencies. The new thinking finds expression in the border book club in this village, which has books on functional subjects like agricultural techniques and industry in ethnic languages, even Lisu, known in some parts of northeastern India. The Dai peacock dance is now a cultural must-do with its oldest practitioner being given a resident celebrity status and visitors invited for lessons with him. The Dais speak a language akin to modern Thai and share Buddhist beliefs with ethnic majorities of Cambodia, Myanmar and Laos and are, therefore, seen as a bridge to build people-to-people ties first, and then, by extension, as purveyors of the commonality of acquaintance and acceptance for more ambitious and reassuring trade exchanges. For geniality, there is a teahouse next to a pavilion and a lotus pool right on the border. The golden pagodas, the jade showrooms and the gem market glitter in the border town of Ruili, just like they did in this cavalcade stopover of the old Silk route to Burma. The jade museum still reminds you of how Chinese merchants took over the auctioning of Myanmarese jade from the British colonists and how this town completed the “circle of trade.” The Ming emperors once said, “Lose everything but don’t leave your jade behind.” Ruili, sitting in the middle of jade country, is the real keystone to China’s opening up to the world and forging a common economic zone. And

TRAVEL it is certainly not left behind. Today, it is a modern trading centre replete with business parks, SEZs, duty-free zones, cross-border outsourcing and manufacturing plants, trade and customs facilitation and sizeable import and export hubs. But it is still the jade museum that you should opt for a history walk. Even if you cannot afford the jade. Conceived in an interactive, 3D format, and with a generous use of computer graphics, you journey through the volcanic rocks and crystals (feel the heat of the earth’s core as you pass through a recreated crater) to the mines and make the final cut. We though love the stories. In the days of the Silk Road, yearly tributes of white jade were made to the Chinese emperor’s court where it was fashioned into objects d’art by skilled artisans. It had a status higher than gold or silver. A Ming dynasty concubine popularised jade as a woman’s accessory. A fruitarian, she had a jade tooth implanted and wore a The 103-year-old Dai woman, a lotus pool at Hansha ethnic village near Ruili and a village-themed restaurant

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Artefacts on display at Ruili jade museum

necklace to beat BO! Smokers used jade pipes as breathing through jade is supposed to gift you longevity. It is considered a stone of harmony and balance while a red variant helps you overcome all fears. The best part about the museum though is to be found in the sculpted jewellery and figurines, from Buddha to the tree of life, even a military gun. They teach you how to identify jade, through the clink of a sound, transparency, light clarity and weight but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really a lab journal. If not here (pure jade is frightfully expensive), you can shop in the many duty-free outlets around the Ruili land port and the old bazaar for baubles and artefacts. Ruili is also emerging as a spa town for tourists given its hot springs. The five-star Jing Cheng Dehai Hot Springs spa retreat, where we stayed, is both pocket and customer-friendly. The last call for the pool is 10 pm while the spa therapy can be availed till 2 am! And for 130 RMB (Rs 1,400), you get a full body massage like no other. With a fruity spritzer. The fruits here are luscious and so large that you cannot have enough of them. But it is Mangshi town that surprises us more with its ease of daily living sprawled amid hills. People keep their establishments open well into midnight, most of them home enterprises. They hawk the goodness of Chinese herbal medicine, home kitchen restaurants, some spot spa sessions like a head, foot or back massage or a hairspa makeover with oil and shampoo wash. Else, you can just light an incense stick in tree trunk shrines to the Buddha and let it waft up your senses while counting beads on random stone sitouts.

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NATURE’S GEE SPOT t’s raining hard in the tropical rainforest of Moli, Yunnan’s latest eco-tourism hotspot with a cascading waterfall. But our hosts tell us we could make the one-hour climb through jagged canyons, sinewy ridges and gushing creeks simply because we would be following Buddha’s footprints. Legend goes that Buddha lived years here, taming wild elephants who dug out a pool for him. And before he left to save more disciples, he dug in his heels to leave a footprint on the rocks. Devotees stream into

Rain forest at Moli

The waterfall and (below) the rock with Buddha’s footprint

this hill shrine, dipping their hands in the pool for absolution. And people milk-feed fish (yes hungry mouths just suck it up) to do their bit for the animal world. Yet it is the climb that’s magical. The towering rubber trees block out the sun and funnel the rain, filtering and shushing them through the dense and big-leaved forest cover. Creepers and branches hold hands and claw their way up the red soil, gnarling and twisting themselves to cross a merry brook. The water whispers and whistles downstream, softening the roar of the waterfall above. The red bushes become brighter with the rain and run up the hilly slopes to daub a contrast with every shade of green. Moss and lichen carpet-bomb the craggy rocks as we cross rivulets over bamboo bridges. But it is the roar which draws you in — primeval, forthright

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The thick, rain-washed forest cover, a bridge over a brook and feeding fish

and a fountainhead of careless energy. It cascades down like a bee swarm, slaps the rocks in milky swathes, froths over boulders and then tames out to a purring, crystalline flow, nourishing everything along its way. Much like the ebb and flow of life itself, it never dries out, just rations and restrains its tempestuous and tortuous self to amble lazily into a juicy solitude. Flying over the golden pagoda of Mangshi, which has the Buddha in his four marble avatars lording over four directions, I wonder if he resides in the little termite mushroom, reared by micro-organisms inside their tiny hill and then, nourished, blooms with the rains. Is it coincidental that the biggest giant mushroom haul of Yunnan gets reported on the day we happen to fly out? I have had my share of enlightenment.

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A fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

love The laws of the jungle are so simple yet so absolute that they stun the intellect of wildlifers prone to conventions by NAVIN M RAHEJA

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WILDLIFE

y passion for wildlife has brought me face-to-face with several miracles of nature and yet, nothing could have prepared me for what I’ve witnessed at the reputed Ranthambore National Park. My team members and I have been filming this unique phenomenon that I have never witnessed in the past four decades of observing tigers anywhere in India. It was January 2011, when the park was teeming with visitors toting their cameras at the friendly tigers. Machli, the queen of Ranthambore, could be found ambling on her fixed route. Her daughter T17, the last remaining radio-collared tiger at that time, was happy cat-walking on the banks of Rajbagh lake but the big draw was a healthy tigress named T5 and her two young cubs. Every day, hundreds of tourists would enter the park with one fervent desire: to somehow spot the happy family of T5. In February, the then Rajasthan environment minister, Bina Kak, herself a keen wildlife enthusiast, spotted that T5 walked with an awkward limp. Her plight indicated that she was in pain of some sort. The forest department was quick to tranquilise the tiger and perform a surgery on her. For the next few days, it was assumed that T5 was on the path of recovery. Alas, it turned out to be a wishful thinking. On February 9, 2011, T5 died leaving behind two very young orphans. I later learnt that while breathing her last, the tigress let out a very strange moan which the guards had never heard before. The moan was probably a signal to the cubs of her death and to move to a safe den immediately as evening was falling. The cubs immediately ran away to the den while the tigress breathed her last. This was a mother’s final adieu.

ollowing T5’s death, her cubs were nowhere to be sighted. This was a period of great stress and anxiety in Ranthambore. A team of more than 50 forest guards combed the area where T5 had died but failed to locate them. Help was also sought from me; I accompanied the forest staff to Kachida area. From close quarters, I saw panic writ large on the face of RP Gupta, the then Field Director of Ranthambore, as all efforts went in vain. Old DVD recordings of the tigress calling for cubs, which I had,

NAVIN M RAHEJA, Chairman and Managing Director, Raheja Developers Limited, is a wildlife enthusiast and a passionate photographer. In the past 35 years, he has made several contributions in the field of conservation at various levels. A former member of Project Tiger’s Steering Committee, under the Ministry of Environment and Forests, he worked persistently to ensure that the big cats survive in India. He is also Chairman, Wildlife Conservation Society of India. One with a holistic vision, Raheja believes that development and protection of environment can happen simultaneously.

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WILDLIFE

were duly played on high pitch but the cubs probably recognised only their mother’s voice. They never came out. In any forest, a motherless tiger cub is the most vulnerable animal you can think of. With no means of protection from predators and without the necessary skills to hunt, it can starve to death. Even before it dies a natural death, a cub is likely to fall prey to leopards, bears and hyenas around it. And Ranthambore is full of such dangers. he next two days were harrowing for the forest department. Repeated search of the area showed no sign of cubs. No pugmarks, no sighting, not a slightest evidence that they were alive. A number of experts from reputed organisations such as the Wildlife Institute of India (WII) and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), too, reached the spot but the cubs outsmarted them all. Several traps and cages were put up in areas closed to tourists but the cubs were untraceable. About four days after T5’s death, the officials finally managed to spot them. They had been hiding in a crevice near Kachida forest chowki, 400 metres away from the spot where their mother had breathed her last. The cubs were still in a state of shock and bolted into a cave the moment they spotted the forest guards. Convinced that they were alive, monitoring was essential for their safety. As a first measure, camera traps were installed at different places around Kachida post which was made out of bounds for tourists. Dead meat and traps was also placed around the chowki for the cubs. But the tiger cubs turned out to be smarter than us. They would finish the food but never came anywhere near the traps and cages. Thanks to the video trap cameras installed in the area by the Ranthambore forest department, the cubs’ day-to-day activities no longer remained a mystery. The images also threw light on their

diverse personalities. While one of them was outgoing, impulsive and gave into curiosity, the other was content to take a back seat. While on the ground, two senior Ranthambore officials — Field director RP Gupta (and later, his successor Rajesh Gupta) and DFO Yogesh Sahu — were at the forefront of this operation along with a team of forest guards, AC Chaube, the chief wildlife warden of Rajasthan, was keeping an eye on the developments in Jaipur. Very rarely would one find so many senior officials working collectively for a single cause. ne day, the cubs managed to kill a goat, which the forest department had tied up near Kachida post. The officials heaved a sigh of relief. At least, the cubs now knew how to bring down a live animal although killing a wild animal was a different ball-game altogether. Only a tigress can teach her cubs the art of stalking a prey. And with mother nowhere on the scene, it was impossible for the cubs to learn on their own. Without this knowledge, they could not survive on their own in the competitive environment of the jungle where everyone was a potential enemy. The general consensus was that the cubs should be caught and dispatched to a zoo. That way, at least their lives would be safe. But Mother Nature decided to intervene for the benefit of the orphans. On March 14, the forest department’s trap camera near Kachida post captured the cubs with a male tiger. In the wild, an older male is a predator for cubs but things appeared slightly different here. A careful study of the photos confirmed that the newcomer was T25, the dominant male tiger of the area. Sensing that the

Ranthambore fort

WILDLIFE

T5 with ST10 and ST11

lives of the orphan cubs were in imminent danger, the tiger changed the natural course of things and decided to take the matter in his own powerful paws. He was presumed to be the cubs’ biological father but nobody was sure of it. Rajesh Gupta sent T25’s scat for forensic analysis to establish if he was biologically connected to the cubs. t was now fairly easy in Ranthambore to spot T25 with the two cubs. And looking at the juniors, nobody could guess they were the same cubs who were presumably doomed for an untimely death just a few months ago. Though T25 had taken their full responsibility, one of them seemed more attached to him. Often, the three would be seen patrolling the dirt tracks of Ranthambore, with not a care in the world. Interestingly, I found that the cubs not only accompanied T25 on his jungle patrols but also watched his actions intently. Some of these actions — like scent-marking at regular intervals to declare territory or scratching the paws on a tree trunk to keep the nails sharp — appear to be daily rituals crucial to a tiger’s survival. T25 was a doting father, there was no doubt about that. Though the cubs had been blessed with a tiger dad, their life was not a bed of roses. In the forest, every day is a new day. On one such day, the cubs realised that their lives were still at the tender mercies of chance. This was the day when one of the cubs, though now grown up to a young adult, had his first brush with death.

young tigress T17 was near a water-hole when she spotted one of the cubs some 300 yards away. A tiger normally doesn’t

tolerate the presence of another big cat in its territory. And T17 or Sundari, was no different. Crouching to the ground, she started eyeing the cub, who stood oblivious to the impending danger. This game would have been over in a flash but again, lady luck smiled on the young tiger. As T17 prepared for the assault, she stopped. She did not believe her eyes. A male tiger suddenly emerged from the grassland and was walking menacingly towards her. Within a matter of seconds, T17 went through three diverse emotions: aggression, confusion and submission. She realised she was no match for a much bigger and powerful T25 but nevertheless held her ground. The waving of her upturned tail signalled that she didn’t want a confrontation. Surprisingly, T25 didn’t intend to harm her either. He merely wanted T17 to stay away from his kids. He approached the tigress, brought his face near her and the two stayed locked in this position for about 10 seconds. Some kind of a message was definitely conveyed to T17 who didn’t like it. She let out a sudden roar but decided to stay away from the cub. Turning away from her, T25 calmly walked back to the cub and the two wandered off in opposite direction. Fortunately, we managed to record this encounter on our cameras and it throws a new light on the secret world of tigers. Life has come a full circle now. Having learnt hunting and surviving in the jungle, the cubs — named ST10 and ST11, have since been shifted to Sariska Tiger Reserve. They themselves have beautiful cubs and are teaching them the laws of jungle. T25 has proved himself to be an able father. T5, their mother, must be happy watching them from somewhere in heaven. (For already published stories and films on wildlife which have run on National Geographic channel, Doordarshan National channel and Doordarshan (India), please log on to www.rahejagroup.org)

‘Tourism has been the backbone of our economy’ Jammu and Kashmir Chief Minister MUFTI MOHAMMAD SAYEED, tells EXOTICA that his government is working aggressively to make people feel safe and attract tourists from across the world You have retained the tourism portfolio. That indicates your interest in this vital sector of the economy in Jammu and Kashmir. What are the new initiatives you have taken to promote tourism on a large scale? The floods of 2014 caused widespread damage to both public and private infrastructure. People lost their homes. The business community bore the brunt. I believe it is the tourism sector which can instantly provide relief to the people, most of whom are directly and indirectly related to the trade. We have taken several initiatives to promote tourism in all parts of the state. Kashmir is a well-known destination. We are promoting Jammu as an independent tourist hub. I was recently at Patnitop and then at Leh for Singhey Khababs function. Our state is a confluence of three distinct cultures, which is our greatest strength.

What initiatives did you take to change perceptions after the floods to woo back tourists? Tourism has been the backbone of our economy. Floods impacted the sector adversely. However, with the grace of the Almighty, we have been able to change the perception among people. But it has not been easy. I have travelled to Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Delhi to meet leading tour and travel operators and other stakeholders, including personalities from the film industry, to motivate them for travelling in the state. We have also started family packages and launched a ‘‘J&K Calling’’ package to attract visitors this summer. It is perceived that J&K is lacking proper infrastructure to cater to highend tourists. What is your Government planning to address this crucial area?

We are conscious of inadequacies in the available infrastructure. We are already working on increasing our high-end intake capacity. We want to establish five-star hotels at several places to attract top draw visitors. For this, we are in the process of finalising our master-plans so that planned development of well-known and new resorts can take place. You recently said that reopening the Kargil-Skardu Road would go a long way in boosting tourism. You are credited with starting cross-LoC trade and travel. Are you advocating promotion of tourism along the LoC? Cross-LoC trade and travel is by far the biggest CBM between India and Pakistan. Unfortunately, it has not progressed much over the last few years. I have pitched for taking the cross-LoC trade beyond ritual meetings of divided families and extending it to several

facilities like ropeways in Patnitop and Mantalai, golf course at Sanasar, water sports at Baghliar and Ranjit Sagar dams. I believe in a very little time, our steps will yield substantive results.

other sectors like tourism, education, health and culture. I have requested the joint secretaries of MHA and MEA to make cross-LoC trade and travel more vibrant by taking up the issues of banking and telecom facilities in the next joint working group meeting between the two countries. Last month, J&K Travel Mart was held in Srinagar after around 28 years, followed by International Buyer-Seller Meet. How has been the response? Huge. We have been able to change the perception of people about visiting Kashmir. We have gone through very difficult times and faced a number of challenges, floods being the latest. I am happy to tell you that we will turn the situation around for the better. The Travel Mart and Buyer-Seller meets have evoked great response and I am sure that many such events will be held in future also. A lot of foreign buyers, with whom I interacted separately, were riveted by the quality of our hand-made products like shawls, carpets and woodwork. Following media reports on another flood-like situation in March, the tourist inflow dwindled temporarily. What measures have you taken to make people feel safe? I must credit my administration in taking pre-emptive measures to thwart the damage of a second flood in March. We did flood drills, established control rooms and had a comprehensive evacuation plan in place. People felt scared when it rained but developed confidence in the administrative machinery once the necessary steps had been taken. The worst is past us now. But we need to take several steps to tackle calamities, especially floods. We want to have a strong disaster response team at our disposal. We are seeking expertise of the National Disaster Management Authority (NDMA) in preparing us better to deal with such emergent situations. On the security front, we are as peaceful as any other state in the country. There is no crime in our state. The media can help us in changing the negative perception.

We did flood drills, established control rooms and had a comprehensive evacuation plan in place. People felt scared when it rained but developed confidence in the administrative machinery once the necessary steps had been taken There are travel advisories by many foreign countries for their citizens on visiting the state. How are you advocating review of these advisories? Travel advisories are a real cause of concern for us. We have been raising this with envoys of those countries which have imposed such restrictions. We seek the intervention of the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) to convince such countries about the improvement in the overall security situation in our state. I am hopeful that we will be able to achieve positive results. Jammu is also coming up as a tourist destination. What are the focus areas in this region? I firmly believe that Jammu can be a major independent tourist destination, combining various elements of leisure, adventure and health tourism. It can also offer tremendous opportunities for weekend packages with conference/ meeting facilities. We are developing Patnitop in a big way. We are also bringing potential destinations like Mantalai, Sanasar, Baghliar, Jai, Badherwah on the tourism map. We are creating additional recreational

Your dream is to make J&K as top eco-tourism destination in the world. What are the measures taken in this direction while preserving the ecology and environment of the region? I have been very categorical in my objective of developing the tourism sector. However, no development will be allowed at the cost of ecology and environment of the region. We want to save this beautiful gift of nature for posterity. All steps to promote tourism will be in consonance with the norms prescribed by regulatory mechanisms of the Ministry of Environment & Forests. Are you optimistic that pilgrimage tourism will gradually help J&Kâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy? Pilgrim tourism is our unique selling proposition since we offer so many distinct cultures and religions on one platform. We live just like a bouquet of exquisite flowers, in complete harmony with each other. It is a rarity we are proud of. How is tourism going on Leh-Ladakh? Ladakh has been a huge hit with overseas tourists. Its unique culture and traditional values have attracted many inquisitive travellers. We are taking steps in promoting Ladakh as a mountaineering and trekking destination. Recently, I met the president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and discussed several steps in promoting adventure tourism there. Singhey Khababs is a regular affair now. Next year, the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, Leh, is organising a Mega Hemis Mela, which is expected to attract nearly two, lakh visitors from 76 countries. In Kargil, I have directed the tourism department to organise a Mega Kargil Tourism Festival and familarisation trip for tour and travel operators.

Take the challenge ammu and Kashmir has two natural advantages — its mountains, lakes and rivers. This variety of terrain puts this state at the top of all holiday destinations in India. Now, the state is expanding the scope of adventure sports and attracting a new crowd of adrenaline junkies from all over the world. Water sports: Jammu and Kashmir is home to some of the most swiftest rivers in the world. Cutting through high mountains, they ripple down furiously through the moonscape of Zanskar and Ladakh, creating the perfect setting for white water rafting. The best stretch for professionally guided

runs is on the Indus between Spituk and Saspol. Beyond Saspol, the river becomes difficult and requires technically skilled participants and careful organisation. Upward of Spituk, the Indus has the easiest stretch up to Karu, ideal for basic training and for day-return “scenic floating” for amateurs. Angling, too, is fast catching up with many lakes, especially around Pahalgam. To those of you who are passive by nature, hop on the narrow boats or

shikaras and sail down the heritage arc of old Srinagar with wooden structures and ornamental bridges. Trekking: Since most of the Himalayan range lies in Jammu and Kashmir, there are many exciting short and long trekking routes. One may go for a day or week-long treks. Like the popular Amarnath Yatra, where you walk till Chandanwadi, the second to Sheshnag and the third over the Mahagunas Pass to Panchtami. Gulmarg to Ferozepur Nala makes a memorable trek. With the help of a porter, you can explore the hamlets of Danwas, Tejjan and Samaidan. There is also a trek from Gulmarg to Tosamaidan. Either return from Riyar and Khag villages or continue south towards the Sunset Peak and then

Paradise regained Jammu and Kashmir is back on the vacation list. We recommend you to visit the state at least once in your lifetime and fall in love with mesmerising landscapes and mountains, adventure sports, good food and exquisite handicraft

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‘Kashmir is safe, secure and enjoyable’ SHALENDRA KUMAR, Commissioner/ Secretary, Tourism and Culture, tells KHURSHEED WANI that perception management on Kashmir is a must for tourism promotion towards Romushi Nala, which is connected to Srinagar via road. Sonmarg is the starting point of a major trek passing several mountain lakes — Vishansar, Kishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal. This trek leads to the Amarnath Cave. Recently, the tourism department in Jammu and Kashmir organised a rock climbing coaching camp for girls with an aim to popularise the sport among the youth. Aero sports: India is fast emerging as a major aero sports destination because of its long Himalayan range that offers a scope for para sailing, para gliding, hot air ballooning and para jumping. The location of a flat valley surrounded by high mountains is an ideal terrain for hang-gliding too. Paragliding is picking up fast in the Valley. People find it thrilling to glide over the green valleys and majestic mountains of Kashmir. Looking from above, you will find the sight of the valley almost breath-taking.

During the premiere of a Bollywood film in Srinagar, you spoke about perception management. What do you mean by it? It means there is a perception outside the state that there is nothing good here. Everyday bombs explode and encounters happen. In a remote Kulgam village, a gun-battle takes place and people feel the entire Kashmir is in a state of war. Flood hits a quarter of Kashmir and the message goes that every nook and corner is deluged. Here we require perception management. Most of the region is safe, secure and enjoyable. Do you think a campaign is perpetually required to reinforce positive messages? Absolutely and we need support of the media, the civil society, writers and perception managers. Has the state developed its infrastructure to accommodate a huge influx of tourists? Kashmir is a natural destination and everything here is original. We are also encouraging homestays as Kashmiris are known for their hospitality. The tourists must stay in eco log heads or tents to enjoy the best of the state. What is the progress on heritage tourism promotion? J&K has such a wide variety of heritage sites that date back to the Harappan civilisation. If a tourist comes for a three-day leisure trip, the projection of heritage sites can compel him or her to extend the stay. We can build circuits like Sufi circuit, Shiva circuit and Buddhist circuit. This is an

untapped area and going by the expanse of our heritage, this can become one of the major attractions for the tourists. Pilgrim tourism is another big attraction. The Mata Vaishno Devi shrine attracts more than one crore pilgrims annually. Then there are Amarnath and Khirbhawani. We also house famous shrines like Hazratbal, Makhdoom Sahib, Baba Reshi. If Ajmer can attract 50 lakh pilgrims, why not Kashmir? We are trying to attract more pilgrims. The flood devastated Sri Pratap Museum also. What is the status of the artefacts there and when is its new building being commissioned? Most of the artefacts are safe. The new building is now ready for commissioning. We have a great treasure of artefacts but so far we have not been able to showcase it in a befitting manner. Since 1989, while the world outside advanced at a tremendous pace, we were backward in many fields. Now, we have caught up and hopefully we will overcome most of the losses. The SPS Museum must be ready by the year-end. It will be one of the major attractions for heritage lovers. JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

Strike gold

olf tourism is one of the main attractions of the Kashmir valley. The peak season for golf in Kashmir is from April to November. Experts believe that the valley houses one of the best natural courses as the weather is moderate and the shade of the bordering chinar and pine trees gives players privacy. Gulmarg Golf Club The Gulmarg Golf Club has attracted many golfers for almost a century. It was established in the early days of the British rule by Sir Neville Chamberlain, KCB. The Club is surrounded by lush green trees, alpine flowers while snow-fed streams and rivulets criss cross through it. This golf course was redesigned by the famous golf architect, Peter Thompson. Today, its has a 6,760 yards, par 72, 18 hole. The highest golf course in the world also boasts of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest hole, a par five, 610 yards. Unlike most of the other par-fives on the Gulmarg course, the eighth plays much longer than its 610 yards because of the uphill factor.

The green course features not only rippling rivulets, streams and ponds, but also herds of sheep which rule out the need for lawn mowers and keep the fairways in excellent condition.

The Royal Springs Golf Club The Royal Springs Golf Course at Srinagar is one of the most scenic spots in Kashmir. It is spread over nearly 300 acres of rolling hills, natural marsh, native deciduous forest, lakes

Holy trip Vaishno Devi Temple: It is considered to be one of the holiest pilgrimages in India. It is believed that the goddess fulfills devoteesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wishes. The shrine is located in the folds of the three peaked mountain named Trikuta. Daily pilgrims exceed 30,000. In fact, the annual footfalls exceed a crore. Amarnath cave: As per legend, Lord Shiva had chosen this cave to describe the secrets of immortality and formation of the universe to Maa Parvati. It is located in a Himalayan glacial valley at a height of approximately 4,000m. The devotees go for the five-day trek to Amarnath, which is 40 miles back and forth and known for its uncertain climatic conditions. Hazratbal Mosque: One of the most revered Muslim shrines, Hazratbal is an epitome of the love and respect of Muslims for the Prophet. This 17th century mosque is situated in Srinagar on the western banks of the picturesque Dal Lake. Facing the beautiful Nishat Bagh, the mosque offers a spectacular view of the lake and the mountain afar. It houses the Moi-e-Muqqadus

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(preserved sacred hair) of Prophet Mohammad. The public display of the hair takes place only on religious occasions. Chrar-e-Sharief: At the holy town of Chrar-e-Sharief lies a sacred destination dedicated to sufi saint Sheikh Noor-ud-din Noorani. He was a benefactor saint of Muslims in Kashmir and produced a number of philosophical works in poetry, prose and verses after getting inspiration from historical events.

‘Bollywood is returning to the Valley’ Er Farooq Ahmad Shah, Managing Director, tells Khursheed Wani that the department is introducing world-class light and sound shows at Dal Lake and Hari Parbat Fort

and wilderness. Situated near the Mughal garden, Cheshma Shahi, at the foothills of Zabarvan hills, it overlooks the mesmerising Dal Lake. The credit of designing goes to famous golf architect Robert Trent Jones Jr II, who has designed about 500 golf courses around the world. This golf course was sliced off a forest which is why a wide variety of bird life can be spotted here. Pahalgam Golf Course Pahalgam has an outstanding 18-hole golf course. The breathtaking highlight of the course is the snow-capped hills. The course runs long and negotiate varied elevations that make for a dramatic game. Kashmir Golf Club The oldest and perhaps the first golf course of the Kashmir valley, this is situated on Maulana Azad Road near TRC ground. Built in 1887, this golf course with 18-hole and par of 70 is spread over 52 acres and is surrounded by mighty chinar trees on all four sides. It provides splendid views of Suleiman Hills and the Shankaracharya Temple.

How are you planning to attract tourists? Jammu and Kashmir is the crown of Incredible India. You name any tourism product and we have it — whether it is high-end, budget or cuisine. All three regions — Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh — have their own USPs. Our Chief Minister’s vision is to make this region the best tourism destination in the world. He is a visionary and passionate about this sector. We are adding world-class light and sound shows at Char Chinari (in Dal Lake) and Hari Parbat Fort. On the instructions of the Chief Minister, hoteliers and tour operators have offered special packages from July onwards. Bollywood is also showing interest... Bollywood is returning to the Valley. In the past, no film was complete without Kashmir. Last time, when I met Shahrukh Khan in Anantnag, he lamented how much Bollywood had missed Kashmir. The Chief Minister is very serious in getting the film industry back. Kashmir is often compared to Switzerland. Your comments. We are better than Switzerland as it lacks high-altitude lakes or natural vistas. Recently, the president of IMF was here and was surprised to know that we have 2,104 high-altitude lakes. Gulmarg is also the best skiing destination in the country and the most affordable in the world. Its quality of powdery

snow is considered the best. The weather conditions are unique, too. In winter, there are 20 days of sunshine every month. We have Gulmarg Gondola that takes the skier to the highest point, that is, 13,500 feet. In Europe, at Alps, you are not allowed to go beyond 12,000 feet. We also have good hotels. We are one of the most sought-after shopping destinations because unlike cities like Dubai, we sell our own products in handicrafts, agriculture and horticulture. How much did tourism suffer post the September floods? Some people have misconceptions that Gulmarg and Pahalgam were hit by floods. We are working to change that perception. Currently, we are getting 27 jam-packed flights every day. Some hotels are sold out for months together. We have no problems on the high-end front. We are adding some new features for entertainment too. JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

Live a lifetime

he beauty of Ladakh lies in its snow-capped peaks, clean blue sky and vistas of barren mountains broken only by blue meandering rivers. Since the 1970s, it has attracted the intrepid traveller across the globe. Because of its remote location and high altitude, Ladakh is not for those looking for a quick holiday. You need time on your hands and oodles of patience. Time, as you need a while to get acclimatised. Modernity is yet to reach the region which has helped preserve its natural and rustic splendour. If you come in through the SrinagarLeh Highway, you will see the landscape change after crossing Zoji La. If you come in through the Leh-Manali Highway, you’ll realise a dramatic change of backdrop after crossing the Lahaul Valley. The green suddenly disappears to give way to a barren terrain. And yet in those earthly tones lies an unearthly beauty. The terrain’s

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ruggedness and ruthlessness will mesmerise you as much as it would intimidate you under harsh conditions. Ladakh shares its eastern border with Tibet, Lahaul and Spiti to the south and Valley of Kashmir to its west. It is a favourite with trekking and mountaineering enthusiasts. The scenic beauty, rugged terrain, majestic mountains and the challenge of roughing it out have been a heady cocktail for

those looking for an adrenaline rush. Ladakh is not only known for its rich culture and tradition but adventure activities as well. Mountain biking will bring you close to nature as you pass by the world’s highest mountains, monasteries and religious abodes and towering sights of the snow-capped Himalayas. The best time to go for mountain biking in Leh Ladakh is from June to August.

Man-made marvels

ver the years, the craftsmen have mastered in making items like carpets, baskets, wall hangings, shawls and much more. Kashmiri shawls The delicate shawls are soft and comfortable to use and have a great demand in the international market. The making of these shawls is not an easy task as it requires a lot of concentration and patience. Most of these shawls are made of three fibres â&#x20AC;&#x201D; wool, pashmina and shahtoosh. Carpets The hand-made Kashmiri carpets are also world-renowned. The artisans use yarn that is mostly silk, wool or a combination of the two. The fine finishing and delicate work make them worthy the price. Papier mache It is made of paper pulp and adhesive. This 15thcentury old craft is made by soaking paper in water for days till it falls to pieces. Once done, this paper is crushed and mixed with an adhesive solution, which is then given different shapes over moulds. Later, this final product is dried, painted and polished before selling in the market. This popular craft comes in varied designs, colours and artwork. Wood carving The primary wood used for this craft is walnut and chinar.

Though expensive, the wood is known for its fine texture and pattern. Wood carving is done on furniture and decorative pieces like jewellery boxes, photo frames and so on. The carving and cutwork skill spans generations. Namdas Craftsmen weave magic in rugs or mattresses that are cheaper than carpets and are made up of cotton and wool. These fibres are manually pressed into shape. These rugs are used as floor covering and are adorned with chain stitch embroidery done with woollen and cotton threads. Silverware The silverware of Kashmir is highly sought after in the international market. Copperware is also popular in the valley. Craftsmen produce interesting cooking items like pots, tea kettles and so on.

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Secrets of the Valley

ashmir is called a heaven on earth not only because of its natural beauty but also for its wonderful Wazwan cuisine. The food combines influences of Hindus and Muslims as well as Persian and Afghan invaders. It is said that chefs from Samarkand were brought to Kashmir during the Timur invasion. They settled down and influenced the Kashmiri cuisine to a great extent. This culinary skill is popular even today. The style of preparation of Kashmiri Pandits and Muslims are radically different. Brahmins use generous quantities of curd along with asafoetida and ginger in their food, excluding eggs, onions and garlic. Muslims use onions, garlic and egg liberally in their food preparations. Saffron and Kashmiri chillies are common spices for both. Mutton (specially), fish and chicken

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are essential ingredients in Kashmiri food. Meat is prepared in a number of ways and is usually mixed with

vegetables and spices such as cinnamon, saffron, cardamom, cloves and so on. Some of the popular Kashmiri meat preparations are Kashmiri kebab, rogan josh, rista, kaleyji, methi keema and so on. From the kitchen of the Kashmiri pundits, savour dum aloo, red and yellow cottage cheese, tangy brinjals (chyok wangun), haakh (collard greens) and monje haakh (kohl rabi). While wazwan is renowned all over the world, Jammu cuisine is lesserknown. It is famous for its rajma chawal (kidney beans curry with piping hot steamed rice). Since it is close to Punjab, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find aloo kulcha (potato), chole kulcha (chickpea), nutri kulcha (soya chunks) and kalari kulcha. Along with the generic spread of snacks, Jammu offers kachalu which comprises arbi corms sliced and diced and marinated with tangy spices.

In full bloom

The garden was built around a fresh water spring that flows right through its centre and is the cause of the garden being named so. The garden has three terraces, an aqueduct, waterfalls and fountains.

he credit for developing the breathtaking Mughal gardens in Kashmir goes to three Mughal rulers — Akbar, Jehangir and Shah Jahan. The gardens count among the best picnic spots for the tourists. We list some of the most scenic ones: Shalimar Garden: Emperor Jehangir built this garden for his wife Nur Jahan in 1616. Covering an area of approximately 539 m by 182 m, the Shalimar garden offers an amazing view over the other gardens, lakes and shallow terraces. Also known as the “garden of love”, the garden has four terraces, rising one above the other. A sound and light show is held here every evening between May to October.

1633 AD. Within the garden are ruins of some of the buildings dating back to the Mughal period. One of them is a double storeyed pavillion enclosed on two sides by latticed windows. There is also a small spring behind the garden known as Gopi Tirth. It is a source of supply of crystal clear water to the garden.

Nishat Garden: It is the second largest Mughal garden in Kashmir located on the bank of the Dal Lake. The Zabarwan Mountains are its background and offer a magnificent view of the Pir Panjal mountain range. Asaf Khan, the brother of Nur Jahan, designed the Kashmir Nishat Bagh in

Chashmashahi Garden: Chashmashahi is the smallest of the three Mughal gardens of Kashmir. Meaning royal spring, this garden measures 108 m by 38 m and is above the Nehru Memorial Park. Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan set up the Kashmir Chashma Shahi Mughal Gardens in 1632.

Harwan: This beautiful and massive garden does not have the usual terraces, artificial fountains or like the other Mughal gardens of Kashmir. It has been deliberately kept devoid of these manmade contraptions. A canal, fed from a lake just behind the garden, passes through its centre. It also serves as a take-off point for visiting Dachi Gam wildlife sanctuary and is a starting point of a Mahadev mountain trek. Pari Mahal: Pari Mahal was initially founded by Dara Shikoh, Emperor Shah Jehan’s eldest son for his sufi teacher, Mulla Shah. Once dotted with numerous springs, which have dried up now, the Pari Mahal gardens are now the property of the state. It is bedazzling at night, and though located on the spur of a hill, can he seen from most places in Srinagar. Pari Mahal, once a Buddhist monastery, was converted into a school of astrology by Dara Shikoh.

JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

WIDEANGLE

With historic buildings of iconic Irish business houses such as Brown Thomas, Weir & Sons and Bewley’s Grafton Street Café, Grafton Street offers an unforgettable experience

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WIDEANGLE

DUBLIN DAZZLE The Irish capital effortlessly balances its centuries-old history full of beautiful castles and cathedrals with its modern avatar that flaunts chic stores, restaurants and pubs alongside an exotic mix of people, cuisine and cultures. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so much for both first-time tourists as well as frequent visitors. If Grafton Street is the nerve centre of the city, Merrion Square, Temple Bar, Kilmainham & the Liberties, North of the Liffey, Docklands & the Grand Canal are all neighbourhood gems waiting to be discovered. Even better, the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s small size allows you to explore all these on foot by ABHISHEK HAJELA

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WIDEANGLE

With a variety of retail stores, cafĂŠs, bars, restaurants and hotels that are known for good bargains, Grafton Street is also a shopperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delight

The chic Kildare Village is a beautifully designed shopping village with great deals on designer stores, uber cool coffee shops and upmarket restaurants

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WIDEANGLE

Along with centuries-old historic monuments, Dublin has more green spaces per square kilometre than any other European capital city, with 97 per cent of residents living within 300 metres of a park area

Crowded with street vendors like this one selling hats for St Patrickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day, Grafton Street is best enjoyed on foot

The Christ Church Cathedral is an important historic landmark and people have been coming here for worship for nearly a thousand years

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WIDEANGLE

(Clockwise) A father and daughter indulge in some family bonding on Grafton Street; stores selling scarves and jewellery at the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre. With its 40 shops, antique stores, restaurants, bars and great location, it is the ultimate shopping mecca, housed in a stunning Georgian building in the ever bustling South William Street; diners at a restaurant in the building

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WIDEANGLE

(Clockwise) The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first Irish Whisky Museum is a new addition to the city and is located just across Trinity College. Independent from the drinks industry, the museum allows visitors to taste the whiskys; a food preparation at a Powerscourt restaurant; salad greens at Kildare village

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GURUSPEAK

SRI SRI RAVI SHANKAR

Education must arm youth with life skills to fulfill not only their own dreams but also that of their society and the world t is a skill to bring up children who are creative, confident and emotionally mature. And then there a few influencing factors...

YOUTH Spiritual guru

here is an old Sanskrit saying. “When your sons or daughters turn 16, behave with them like a friend.” Don’t be their teachers; don’t tell them what to do or what not to. Just share their difficulties with them. If you relate as a friend with them and not as a parent, they will be more open with you. Youth usually face big highs and

too many lows and always seek instant gratification and solutions to their problems. And often a lack of understanding of issues drives them to extreme choices. Explains why the number of youth who are giving in to smoking, drinking, drugs and violence is at an all-time high. Inhibition and exhibition are two of the biggest problems of our youth today. They worry too much about what people will think about them. This severely affects their decisionmaking ability. From the smallest decisions like which clothes to wear, which mobile to buy to more serious

b a o l l c G

future of

n e s z i it

ones like which career to opt for; most decisions are taken based on the undercurrent of what others would think about them rather than rational and informed choices. But it’s foolish to be afraid of failures in life. Just accept: “Ok, I am going to fail. So what? I still want to do it.” It’s like a game you play, without the fear of winning or losing. Life is a mix of failure and success — they complement each other. If you fail, then you know the value of success, it is a stepping stone. You need to move forward. Ask yourself, what did I learn from the past and what is my vision for the future?

This will keep you going. Be a player and not the pawn. Our youth need to realise that they can be creative and productive without losing the humanness that they are all born with. They also need to realise that they have a huge potential and strength to achieve whatever they want. One of the key aspects of Indian spirituality is seva or service, which when made the sole purpose in life, eliminates fear, brings focus to mind, purpose in action and long-term joy. Remember life is much more than all that you can achieve and possess.

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EDUCATION SYSTEM s education only about getting good grades so that one can secure a good job later? Or is it about laying the foundation for long-term prosperity of the society as a whole? The basic human tendency to “give” is lost somewhere in the pursuit of an education that has a narrow vision and promotes selfishness and greed. Education must not only instill in students an appreciation for the sciences but also reflect today’s diverse cultural influences. A good system of education must imbue children with self-esteem and creativity and help nurture a free, un-obsessed, anger-free and relaxed mind. Today, media, Internet, movies and video games bombard children with information. This information overload affects the brain’s capacity to digest and analyse data and often results in health problems like Attention Deficiency Disorder. Creative methods of teaching can combat these issues and help children build healthy personalities. In addition to intellectually stimulating children, the

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GURUSPEAK

EDUCATION MUST NOT ONLY INSTILL IN STUDENTS AN APPRECIATION FOR THE SCIENCES BUT ALSO REFLECT TODAY’S DIVERSE CULTURAL INFLUENCES

education system must also include activities such as sports, meditation, yoga and pranayama to teach them how to manage their emotions. True education means a preparation for achieving life skills to attain not only one’s dreams but also build a safe and strong community. It’s absolutely critical that children get a multi-cultural and multi-religious education. This is vital to avoid fanaticism and religious terrorism in the world. If a child grows up with a sense of belonging towards everybody, he or she is ready to engage with communities in a meaningful way. And by the time he/she graduates out of college, he/she will be ready to embrace his/her duties towards himself/herself, the nation and the world. The function of education is to teach one to think critically — where intelligence comes with character. It is of no use if one acquires good education and then begins to look down upon others — or just engage in building wealth for oneself. A complete education is one which empowers an individual to play the role of a global citizen in making the local community stronger and the world a safer and happier place to live in.

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DRINKS MAGANDEEP SINGH

here is something to be said about summer and how in spite of being so bright, it manages to drain all the colour from our faces. The fatigue that uncontrolled sweating induces isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t remotely similar to the kind that is felt after a day of labour or finishing a long race. It is more lethargic than tiredness that one feels. Nothing to worry for the liquor cabinet has a cure for every ailment. In many cases it has a cure even when thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no ailment or symptoms thereof. Here then are a few lovely bright (white) spirits that will help put colour back in those cheeks, no matter how sweltering the sun. VODKA: Although, at the very outset, I must admit that this is my least favourite of white spirits, I still recommend it for the purity it promises. The more times it is distilled, the more neutral (and thus smooth) it can taste. This taste then makes for a lovely

T Sommelier

The

white summer spirit A few lovely, bright (white) variants will help put the colour back in those cheeks

DRINKS

base to garnish with any flavour and the fresh fruits of the season could make a worthy cause. Mango or peach pulp with vodka and lemonade/tonic to top, or maybe a litchi for garnish, the options abound. Either way, a vodka’s lack of inherent flavour makes it an ideal summer base for drinks. GIN: From absolutely neutral, we up the ante and see some pronounced flavour, still subtle but distinctly marked nonetheless. Gin is the stuff that acquired all the notorious monikers, from Mother’s Ruin to the instiller of Dutch Courage. All said, it is still one of the most flavourful white spirits and a personal favourite. The aromatics that are infused from the proprietary combination of botanicals, (herbs, spices, even flowers and fruits) that make up the flavour profile of a gin brand make for quite an interesting study. And these “studies” are best carried out with a long glass, ice, some lime wedges and plenty of tonic on standby. One such study will throw light on the classic Gin & Tonic (G+T): a cocktail which originated in India in an effort to protect the stationed British soldiers against malaria. Quinine, the only preventive measure against the deadly mosquitoes, was tough to down by itself but mixed with gin

DRINKS

and some soda, it was an absolute delight. And so was born what we know today as the G+T. MESCAL: Most people think Tequila and it makes them dry-retch. That’s the gag-effect of our teenage years that still catches up with us every time someone mentions the national drink of Mexico. Shame for it is a really lovely drink, provided we drink it responsibly and sensibly. But the very mention of Tequila seems to rule out that option, which is why I am mentioning Mescal. For long, this beverage, also made from Agave (but just not in the demarcated zone where Tequila is allowed to be made) was considered the lesser of

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the two: Tequila has purity and depth whereas Mescal was always considered a bit edgy and gritty to be a fine beverage. Today, good Mescal can give even the top Tequila brands a run for their money. WHITE RUM: The “rum” bit seems to be less of a problem when the word white precedes it, which can be useful for the summer. Most people can think of only one brand when the words “white rum” are mentioned. And frankly speaking, beyond another two or three names, even I would be hard-pressed to think of other brands. And yet, in spite of how little we may know of this category, some of the most popular summer cocktails are made using this spirit: Mojito, Cube Libre, Pina Colada, Daiquiri. In fact, what I like most about white rum is how it manages to be light and yet rich and textured at the same time. It can be enjoyed on the rocks and yet blends into drinks so seamlessly. It is no less potent than the others on the list and yet it shows more character than some of them. So now that you have a choice of four white spirits to turn to, it’s time to pick favourites. Don’t worry, nobody will judge you, as long as you invite them and are willing to share.

TECHTRACK FIVE APPS HELP THE TECH-SAVVY TRAVELLER PLAN AHEAD AND SAVE ON BOTH TIME AS WELL AS MONIES Travel, very often, is event-based. CRONOMIO is an event discovery platform that integrates with users’ calendars so that they can easily find and schedule events that align with their interests. The earlier a user becomes aware of an event, the better chance she/he will invest in travelling to get to it.

GODISCOVER calls itself “the tinder of travel,” in which users either accept or reject sites within a city to create a personalised map of the places that they’ve selected. A quick, if not lazy, way to plan a trip.

LYKE is a community-based app that gives users real-time feedback about where to go and what to check out in a new city. It shows areas where people congregate, points of interest and ratings for businesses.

Sharing costs has become an option for every piece of the travel experience. TRIPDA is an online ride-sharing marketplace for longdistance trips. The platform, available online and via iOS and Android apps, verifies drivers and passengers, offers “ladies only” cars and processes payments. Live in more than 10 countries in the Americas and Asia.

Outside of tapping into a Wi-Fi network, making calls internationally is an expensive deal. YALLO is an Android app that adds call features that become particularly helpful on the road. Currently available only in the US, UK, Canada, Singapore and Israel, Yallo allows users to make and receive international calls with their current phone number, access lower than standard roaming fees, or search and transcribe and annotate calls.

DOCTALK DR KIRAN LOHIA

FOODS FOR GORGEOUS Dermatologist

SKIN Want gorgeous skin from the inside? It is time you paid attention to the interplay between what you eat and how you look

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ncreasing data shows that specific food groups can cause skin ageing, pigmentation, sensitive skin, rashes and even acne. I spend time with each and every patient, going through their diet plan in order to balance their system so that it reflects on their skin. In this article, I am going to share insider secrets about what to have and what not to in your daily diet.

DIET NO-NOs No Dairy: Yes, you heard me right. Contrary to “milk does a body good” rule that we have heard while growing up, the reality is that it is more harmful than you think. Dairy items such as milk, cheese, ice cream and yoghurt are full of hormones. Acne, ageing and pigmentation are all caused or worsened by hormonal imbalance, so adding even more hormones from your food into the mix just aggravates or creates the problem. Nearly all dermatologists will tell their patients

to cut out the dairy products as much as possible in order to get rid of those extra hormonal pollutants. For those of you scared of not getting enough calcium, did you know that spinach has more calcium than milk? No Sugar: Just a spoonful of sugar may make the medicine go down but it sure doesn’t help your skin. Those innocent looking crystals can be the difference between a youthful glow and dull and aged skin. Sugar is known to cause something known as glycation of important proteins in the skin. Through glycation, these strength and youth-giving proteins become

DOCTALK

inactive, resulting in worsening sagging and wrinkles. Doctors and famous Hollywood and Bollywood celebrities will tell you that cutting out sugar can truly revolutionise your appearance in a short period of time. A word of caution for those of you with a sweet tooth: Substituting with sugarfree capsules is not the answer. Sugar-free options have a host of issues themselves and cause just as much as an insulin reaction as sugar does. For truly gorgeous, youthful skin, keeping it natural and without sugar is the way to go. No Artificial Ingredients: The fact is that there is not enough data to truly prove that artificial ingredients like food colours, sweeteners, artificial flavours, nitrates et cetera unequivocally harm you. But we do know that they can cause oxidative damage to your cells, aggravate internal diseases and many skin conditions. After seeing thousands of patients, I can honestly say that “cutting out the crap” and keeping it as natural as possible can only be good for you. Eating excessively processed foods with untested additives can only damage your system in ways that we are only just beginning to understand. So, while a burrito here and there won’t kill you, definitely try to keep your diet simple and true to nature at least 80 per cent of the time. It will make a big difference in your body and your skin. After all, you are what

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you eat! And you don’t want to be ketchup! No White Foods: So while a white dress code for a party might be de rigeur, maida, corn flour, cornstarch and white rice are not happening for your skin. White flour and cornstarch, present in everything from pasta to namkeen, are a huge cause of insulin dysregulation. These foods have no nutritional value — they just taste good. And in the process, cause your insulin to spike and stress hormones to skyrocket. You all remember what your skin used to look like a teenager before a test? Those pimples, that dullness and that skin sensitivity? Well that happens because your stress hormone, known as cortisol, has shot up through the roof. To stop your hormones from going crazy, avoid these white foods that have a high glycemic index, meaning that they cause sharp insulin spikes.

FOODS TO SAY YES TO ome foods are a great addition to your diet because they add so much value to your body both inside and out. These are listed below: Walnuts: This super food has ultra vital Omega-3 fatty acid, an extremely important lipid that is necessary to maintain the skin barrier, hydrate it and make it more supple and pliant. And, as an added plus, Omega-3 fatty acids are fantastic for your cardiovascular health and have recently been shown to reduce your risk of cancer! Have about 8-10 walnuts a day to get the benefits of this active ingredient, without having to worry about the extra calories. Kiwi: An unsung hero of vitamins, kiwis pack a powerful punch of Vitamin C that is more than any other fruit! Vitamin C is a vital active that is important in two functions.

DOCTALK

fats. These lipids help keep your skin hydrated so that you maintain your healthy glow. Avocados can reduce the damage that UVA and UVB rays cause to the skin. Containing Omega-9 fats like oleic acid, these actives also help regenerate damaged skin cells while reducing facial redness and irritation. Add it to your salads or sandwiches. Green Tea: Green tea is the ideal anti-oxidant boost for your skin. With natural catechins and free radical counteracting actives, this magical Chinese drink is probably the reason why Asians

First, it is needed for the production of collagen, which is a protein that keeps the skin tight and firm. Second, it is a potent anti-oxidant, helping to counteract all that damage your skin suffers from pollution, sun and the environment. Avocados: A favourite in Mexico, avocados are full of healthy fats known as monounsaturated

have naturally beautiful skin and hair. Drink green tea throughout the day to cleanse your system while also giving you that desired glow. Almond Milk: Cow’s milk is detrimental to the skin. Essentially, every dermatologist agrees that dairy is the worst for skin. Why is this? Cow’s milk, just like human milk, is full of hormones. Those hormones cause acne, pigmentation and can even worsen ageing! Instead almond milk is full of natural proteins and Vitamin E, ultimately giving you nutrition without the hormonal imbalance! — The author is MD and Medical Director of Lumiere Dermatology, New Delhi

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WELLNESS

POWER OF A SMILE

Your oral health is more important for you than you think, advises DR EKTA CHADDHA mile because it’s uplifting and contagious. It is as infectious as the flu. Think about this: Someone smiled at you today and you end up smiling through the rest of it. Across the world, cultures and languages, a smile is a given language of deep-felt emotions and thoughts. Explains the expression, “Smiling is universal.” It is the curve that sets everything right. And turns a trying day into one of cheer and solace. Psychological researches show a correlation between a smile and a happy state of mind and heart. It is more complicated than the simple communication of happiness. Through this one facial expression, one can communicate a wide range of positive emotions, depending

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upon their specific makeup. Researchers point that an average adult smiles only 20 times a day whereas a happy adult smiles 40-45 times a day. In the difference lies the verity — of confidence, innate ability and competence — of a human being. nd this also brings us to another study — that a white and evenly spaced set of teeth makes people more attractive. Teeth, as a study points out, are the human equivalent of a peacock’s tail — a sign of health and genetic quality designed to help us choose a mate. There also exists the kinship between smile and medical sciences. Smile has the ability to regulate our blood pressure, immune system, lower the risk of

cancer, increase our life by seven years and provide inner peace and satisfaction. rom a doctor’s perspective, it brings me to the most important factor — the importance of oral hygiene. Your oral health is more important to you than you might realise. And for those of you who travel frequently, it becomes all the more important that you take care of it. Keep your toothbrush dry and in a large enough container to provide air circulation. Often when we are travelling, stopping to brush our teeth just isn’t practical. In these situations, it is advisable to chew some sugar-free gum. It will help clean your mouth and freshen your breath.

Make sure you are travelling with a water bottle, as having a dry mouth can increase the amount of cavity-causing bacteria. ne should always avoid any major treatment just before a trip. And even if you’re in the middle of any treatment, ask your dentist for instructions on how to keep things stable while you are away. If you experience pain that does not go away or you notice swelling around the gums, you may be experiencing a more serious emergency dental situation. It is a good idea to see a dentist as soon as possible. Don’t let these situations overpower your smile. — The author is a Delhi-based dental surgeon and heads Smile Studio.

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ADVENTURE

As the Manali-Leh-Khardungla highway gets ready for the annual cycling championship from July 26, EXOTICA tells endurance cyclists what to expect in the race to the top

Wheels&vista ough! Tough! Tough! Hard as rock! But there is something in those magnificent mountains and hourlong climbs that make one enjoy the hardship. Just when you think it is difficult to go any further, the soul is pulled by yet another breathtaking view. Come prepared that it is going to hurt you. While unforgiving, the Himalayas are completely captivating.â&#x20AC;? This is

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how Nakul Singh, the fastest rider of the ManaliKhardungla Cycling Championship 2014, describes his experience of the inaugural edition. Cycling as an organised sport is still at a nascent stage in India. But the ManaliKhardungla Cycling Championship (MKCC) is trying to revolutionise things by getting endurance cyclists from India and abroad to compete against each other in what probably are

ADVENTURE PHOTOS: GAURAV SCHIMAR

Start of More plains on the Sarchu Rumtse stretch; winners Anil Uchil and Nakul Singh atop Khardungla

the most challenging conditions and terrain. The race commences on July 26 in Manali and ends on August 3 at Khardungla, the world’s highest motorable pass — at 18,380 ft. he 9-day Stage Race is designed especially for the longdistance endurance cyclists, who will race on a carefully charted route spanning terrains of varying difficulty levels. The parallel-running Ultimate Cycling Adventure Tour is designed for cycling enthusiasts who wish to ride on the world’s highest road at their own pace and experience the sheer brilliance and challenge of the terrain. The stages of the race have been designed to help the riders acclimatise to the rarefied conditions in a phased manner. Things are likely to be tougher this year with the Indian Army’s top mountain bikers competing in the race. Also participating is Laxmi Magar, three-time Women’s Mountain Biking National Champion of Nepal.

ver since the region opened up to travellers in the 1970s, the Manali-Khardungla route has been on the must-do list of every serious cyclist. The Manali-LehKhardungla highway stretches over 500 km of predominantly paved roads, with stretches of sand, gravel and rocky terrain thrown in for good measure. The race takes the riders through ever-changing and incredibly dramatic landscapes (the world’s highest passes, with five of them above 15,000 ft including Khardungla), while ascending and descending continuously. “The Manali-Khardungla route is highly inspirational for the global cycling community. It is not so much about physical capability, it is more of a mind game to be won,” says race director Anil Uchil. — For details log onto www.manalikhardungla.in

ANTHONY BRZESKI/WWW.MTBMAGINDIA.COM

ADVENTURE

(Top) Mesum Verma cycles downhill from a monastery; riding with the Ladakh range in the background

ATLEISURE

CULTURE CONNECT [CALENDER OF EVENTS]

AMARNATH YATRA 2015

BOOKWORM [WHAT THE TRAVELLER IS READING]

MIDNIGHT’S FURIES: THE DEADLY LEGACY OF INDIA’S PARTITION NISID HAJARI he Partition of India is horrific saga of unimaginable bloodbath, suffering and loss on both sides of the border. Arguably among the worst genocides of the 20th century, literary records of its causes and inevitability however, remain limited. In this book, former Newsweek foreign editor and now Bloomberg View Asia head revisits the effects of Partition “through personal stories and eyewitness accounts” and the “complex relationships” between the Congress, Muslim League and British leaders and, more importantly, how it “has given birth to global terrorism and dangerous nuclear proliferation (in Pakistan).” Hajari looks at the paradoxes — a non-religious Jinnah creating a theocracy and still remaining averse to mixing politics with religion; Gandhi, the apostle of non-violence settling for bloodshed if that was the cost of independence; and lastly the Partition, that was to ensure lasting peace in the region, leading to a spiral of violence here. But it is the top leadership on both sides that garners maximum rebuke from the author. Despite the reverence that they are held in, these leaders ultimately, were humans, says Hajari. And their human failings, are what India, Pakistan and their neighbours are paying for 70 years later. — Ritu Pandey

WORLD OF ART [WHAT TO SEE] rtworks showing Indian priests during the British Raj offering prayers in yoga postures, are on display at Kolkata’s Victoria Memorial Hall. Titled “Morning Prayers of Brahmins”, the exhibition coincides with the June 21 inaugural International Yoga Day, and features 15 lithographic prints (reproduced digitally on canvas) by 19th century English artist SC Belnos, who lived in Kolkata (then Calcutta). The prints were part of her celebrated 1851 album “Sundhya” with 24 plates depicting Brahmins paying obeisance to nature, their poses as well as accessories. On till July 21.

he annual pilgrimage to the Amarnath cave shrine on the challenging Himalayan terrain of Jammu & Kashmir to see an ice stalagmite (Shiv Linga) formed inside the cave. This year the journey commences on two routes on July 2 (Purshottam Purnima) and concludes on August 29, (Shravan Purnima). For details, log on to www.shriamarnathji shrine.com

WANDERLUST [FESTIVALS & HAPPENINGS] o Champakulam Boat Race The oldest snake boat race of Kerala. When: July 1 Where: Alleppey, Kerala. o Splash 2015 Monsoon is when Wayanad comes alive with rain and greenery. The town then becomes the hotspot for river rafting, mountain biking, mud football, crab catching and feasting on local savouries. When: July 10-12 Where: Vythiri Village, Vythiri, Wayanad, Kerala o Njangattiri Aanayoottu Elephants are usually seen decorated and paraded around during temple festivals in Kerala. However, this is festival when temple devotees feed the jumbos with sugarcane leaves, coconut and jaggery. The ritual aims to please Lord Ganesha, for fulfillment of wishes. When: July 17 Where: Njangattiri Bhagavathi temple, Pattambi, Palakkad, Kerala

JULY 2015 / EXOTICA

SIGNOFF

RADHA ON THE DANCE FLOOR trange things happen in strange lands. Stranger are friends gallivanting about in stranger lands and strangest are strangers behaving thick-as-thieves and attempting to break all rules in disciplinarian China. Well, simply put, a SAARC brotherhood developed in the far pavilions in true Bollywood style. It so happened that I was part of a media delegation of 14 South Asian and Southeast Asian countries to Kunming to understand China’s focus on gateway tourism. It all began with killing time in the team bus in between ceremonial rounds and back-to-back interviews, facts and figures buzzing like drones in our head, particularly by RINKU after heavy lunches at the ludicrous mid-morning hour of 11.30 am. Turned out Mustafizur Rahman, our colleague from Bangladesh, was a huge fan of Hindi film songs and Rekha. On one such afternoon, to look sharp and alert, he started playing music videos from his 150title archive on his flat screen device. “Yeh kahaan aa gaye hum,” trilled a pixellated Rekha. Our Sri Lankan friends jumped up in glee and the youngest among them and an avid follower of our edition of Coke Studio, Indika Sakaloosuriya, began crooning Kishore Kumar. That too, Kabhi kabhi mere dil mein. His colleague Nisthar Cassim showed off his collection of the 60s and 70s. Liladhar Upadhyaye from Nepal, an avowed Salman Khan fan, was the dancer among us, playing Munni badnam hui. We Indians (two of us), quick to seize the power of soft diplomacy, immediately took on the role of big brother and egged them on with lyrics etc, foxing our Chinese hosts completely. All our interpreter-guide Chang could say was, “The South Asian people know how

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to live life, there’s so much singing and dancing.” He was to eat his words a few hours later. Having bonded in the afternoon and tormented equally by the non-SAARC dinner time of 6 pm, sleeping or staying in was so not the done thing. Kunming itself is a very safe town, with working people getting home and establishments open well past 10 pm. But we had a curfew considering the 6 am wake-up call for the following day. The Southeast Asian journos were less intrepid. So we decided to have our own party in the porch of a wedding hall annexe next to our hotel. No Google or YouTube in China meant we would have to depend on whatever downloads we had. Somebody GHOSH decided to attach a jack to a laptop amplifier. But Cassim suggested we needed booze to amp up proceedings since a particularly pretty moon was hanging low in the night sky. We trooped into town, five men and one woman, got some Chinese vodka (the boys chose whisky), a local version of Seven-Up with hints of litchi and wasabi chips. We picked up the glasses from each of our rooms. And under a moon-lit sky, we lip-synched, our own version of karaoke, as Lila danced like Radha on the dance floor. India, Bangladesh, Nepal and Sri Lanka had struck common ground unlike any other. Till Chang showed up. Some guests had complained of late night revelry. Cassim bhai had a quick solution. “Switch off the phones but we can sing under the open skies. You see we are all artistes by night.” Rahman bhai chose a more simple route. He offered a glass to Chang. And there we were, a motley crowd who had managed to tame the Chinese on their own soil. In the spirit of bonhomie.

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EXOTICA

RNI NO. DELENG/2006/18084 POSTAL REGN. NO. DL (C)-01/1151/13-15 Posted at NDPSO on 10th, 11th & 12th of same month Published on 30th of Advance Month

VOL 9 NO 9 JULY 2015