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FROM THE EDITOR
Editor-in-Chief CHANDAN MITRA EDITORIAL BOARD Vice-Chairman & Joint Managing Director Amit Goel Chief Executive Officer Abhishek Saxena 09818600128 EDITORIAL Editor-in-Charge Rinku Ghosh Feature Writers Devi Singh Priyanka Joshi Chief Designer Anand Singh Rawat Senior Designer Santosh Kumar Yadav Pre-press Manager Syed Nawab Raza Staff Photographer Pankaj Kumar SALES & MARKETING General Manager Kumar Gurudutta Jha Senior Manager Madhukar Saxena Managers Bharat Singh Sajwan & Prabhakar Pathak Senior Marketing Executive Komal Sharma Media Coordinator Srinija Chakraborty GOVERNMENT & PSU General Manager Tapan Ghosh Assistant Manager Neeta Rai MUMBAI OFFICE General Manager Devendra Adhikari KOLKATA OFFICE Vice President Suzanna Roy General Manager (Circulation) Rajeev Gautam Printed and published by Chandan Mitra for and on behalf of CMYK Printech Ltd, printed at JK Offset Graphics (P) Ltd, B-278, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, New Delhi-110020 and published at 2nd floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi 110002. Editor: Chandan Mitra. Entire Contents Copyright (C) 2006 CMYK Printech Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in any language in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Requests for permission should be directed to CMYK Printech Ltd. Opinions carried in Exotica are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CMYK Printech Ltd. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the return of unsolicited material or for material lost or damaged in transit. All correspondence should be addressed to CMYK Printech Ltd; 2nd Floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Phone: 23718296/40754136 Fax: 23755275 Email: exoticapioneer2016@gmail.com
HOTELS WITH HISTORY
RECENTLY
I came across a newspaper article extolling hotels with history. There were certain glaring omissions in the listing. While The (Oberoi) Grand in Kolkata rightly figured right on top, surprisingly Mumbai’s iconic Taj Mahal hotel did not get pride of place. But an interesting addition to the list of hotels was The Strand in Rangoon. Some of these hotels have great backgrounds and nowadays their managements take a lot of pain to emphasise the historicity of the buildings and anecdotes associated with these heritage properties. India is replete with magnificent palaces of former kings and princes, which have been taken over by leading hotel chains, restored to their pristine glory through extensive renovation with all modern creature comforts thrown in. This is a trend worldwide and many discerning travellers opt for them to savour a bit of that heritage. Even not-so-famous minor palaces and abandoned forts have been converted to luxury hotels attracting a big clientele, such as the Neemrana Fort in Rajasthan. Personally I love spending a few days in such places to allow imagination take flight to the days of yore. The Taj at Madurai, where I have stayed twice, is such a heritage hotel. Originally the Director’s Bungalow of Madura Coats, a British-owned company, the hotel is located atop a hillock with sprawling lawns and gardens covering several hundred acres. The bustling city of Madurai, with the famous Meenakshi Temple at its centre, lies below the hill. On both occasions that I stayed here, my mind was transported to the distant past trying to reconstruct what life must have been when the British “nabob” lorded over the palatial structure built at several levels. Or take Noor-us-Sabah (The Light of the Dawn) Palace hotel in Bhopal. It is not comparable in size to any big palace but it encompasses great history from the days of the opulent Queens of Bhopal. Some of its heritage suites have been preserved with loving care, complete with four-poster beds, ornate furniture and wrought iron chairs placed on the balconies. Similarly, the Taj Group’s properties at Chennai and Bengaluru, The Connemara and West End, respectively, encapsulate big slices of colonial history. The Rambagh Palace in Jaipur is internationally famous for being the home of the kings of Jaipur, just as Umaid Bhawan in Jodhpur was built by the last Maharaja in the 1930s to provide his subjects an employment opportunity in the face of severe drought. Hotels in Delhi do not have such lovable antiquity as it is a relatively new city, which became the Capital of the Mughals only in the dynasty’s declining decades. British Delhi (which was commissioned barely 100 years ago), hardly has hotels of historic lineage, although Oberoi Maidens on Alipur Road has been around even before New Delhi came into existence. The only other hotel that comes close is The Imperial on the fringes of Connaught Place. Once it was New Delhi’s only stylish hotel where the ballroom came alive with desi sahibs and English memsahibs every weekend. Filmmaker Manoj Kumar has a fetish about this as I came to know while organising the premiere of his Roti, Kapda Aur Makaan as Secretary of my College Students’ Union way back in 1974. The actor-producer always camped at The Oberoi when in Delhi but on the day of the premiere invariably shifted, bag, baggage and retinue to The Imperial just for that day. He explained he used to stay there earlier because it was New Delhi’s most famous address till the ’60s. So, when Upkar, the first film under his own banner released, he was lodged there. The film went on to become a superhit and “Mr Bharat” has been very particular about staying at The Imperial for all his film launches ever since. And all of them have been huge commercial successes!
[CHANDAN MITRA] Editor-in-Chief
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I N S I D E NOVEMBER 2016 VOLUME 11 NO 1
[p74] LITTLE BLACK BOOK [p19] Monica Dogra: A quick peek into her style file FOOD TRAIL [p20] There’s always place for another meal: Taiwan food diary Q&A [p36] Mind over matter: Radhika Apte ROOT MUSIC [p44] Symphony of the sand: Rajasthan International Folk Festival AFRICAN SAFARI [p54] Earth from space: Experience the African animal kingdom from a hot air balloon
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COVER PHOTO: OIJO JODHPUR RIFF/CITY CONCERT AT JODHPUR RIFF 2016
CONTRIBUTORS Sri Sri Ravi Shankar [p90] GURUSPEAK: Let go Bharat Thakur [p92] FITNESS: Bring it under control Magandeep Singh [p94] BLITHE SPIRIT: Bring home the memories Kushan Mitra [p96] HOTWHEELS: A Swedish dream Sanjay Jumaani [p104] NUMBER GAME: Count your fate
HILL HIKE [p62] Prism of hues: Spot the winterline in Mussoorie HERITAGE WALK [p66] Be a new Mughal: Dharampura Haveli LIVING HERITAGE [p74] Karnavati’s Pride: French Haveli in Ahmedabad LIFE CALL [p78] Lost in Amazon: Yossi Ghinsberg shares his survival tale LEGACY HUNT [p82] The epic makers: The Mewar Ramayana STARGAZE [p85] Style statement: Check out what these celebs wore and where CRUISE CHIC [102] Soak up: Laze in beachboho resort wear
TOTAL NUMBER OF PAGES 108 INCLUDING COVER
OUR
PARTNER
HOTELS
Send us your feedback at exoticapioneer2016@gmail.com; Facebook: www.facebook.com/Exotica-394686670715776
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EVENT CALENDAR
SWEETNOVEMBER Your bizzare guide to cruise through the whacky days this month
3RD NOVEMBER
4TH NOVEMBER
[CLICHÉ DAY]
[COMMON SENSE DAY]
11TH NOVEMBER [ORIGAMI DAY]
The word cliché is derived from French. It was originally an onomatopoeia describing the sound of a printing plate.
It was established by Bud Bilanich, a career mentor with a reputation for focussing on being The Common Sense Guy.
The folded paper crane is an international symbol for peace. It’s all about the art of paper folding and showcasing incredible creations.
17TH NOVEMBER
13TH NOVEMBER
15TH NOVEMBER
[WORLD KINDNESS DAY]
[CLEAN REFRIGERATOR DAY]
[UNFRIEND DAY]
The day became a reality when several humanitarian groups came together on November 13, 1997 and made a declaration of kindness.
The day was started by Whirlpool Corporation. It’s a great reminder though that to function effectively, our kitchen appliances should be cleaned out once in a while.
On this day just remove someone as a ‘friend’ on a social networking site such as Facebook. Find a reason if you don’t have one already.
24TH NOVEMBER
26TH NOVEMBER
29TH NOVEMBER
[UNIQUE TALENT DAY]
[SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY]
[SQUARE DANCING DAY]
Take the opportunity to share your unique gifts with friends and colleagues on this day. After all it’s all about being creative and unique.
The day encourages people everywhere to shop from small businesses for one day, and do their bit in bringing about a change.
This fun, healthy and simple form of dance with a long history definitely deserves a holiday of its own, and it has one and how.
EXOTICA [8] NOVEMBER 2016
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TRAVEL NEWS
NEW INNINGS
TAJ
Hotels Resorts and Palaces recently celebrated the launch of Taj Bangalore, the latest addition to the Taj hotels luxury portfolio and the sixth hotel in the garden city of Bengaluru. At the forefront of global styles and evolving architectural trends, the chic, spacious and contemporary Taj Bangalore offers a
window into the progressive spirit of the city. Located strategically adjacent to the Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru, the 154-key hotel offers guests world-class luxurious experiences, designed especially for entrepreneurs, business professionals and leisure travellers.
DECCAN ODYSSEY
DECCAN
Odyssey, the award-winning luxury train operated by Cox & Kings, the outsourced partner of The Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC), has extended the date for its attractive companion offer until December 31. You can book a cabin and avail flat 25 per cent discount for your companion for journeys. They can now travel with you onboard the royal journey for price starting $7,338 instead of $8,386 for Deluxe Cabin on twin- sharing.
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GASTRONOMY GETAWAY
ACCORDING
INDULGE YOUR SENSES
THE
holistic concept room, designed to help guests “live it well”, was unveiled recently at Swissôtel Zurich where visitors can revitalise body, mind and soul. Swissôtel has partnered with a magazine to showcase the first dedicated Vitality Room at Swissôtel Zurich. The new Vitality Room — a serene and stylish sanctuary with bespoke wellness features to help guests maintain their mental and physical health while away from home — builds on Swissôtel’s exceptionally well-received Vitality Programme, an integrated approach to supporting guests by focussing on their general well-being and quality of life.
to a recent survey, 34 per cent Indians frequent restaurants twice a month with gastronomy on top of their mind when going on vacations. Gastronomical getaways are an emerging trend among Indians where for 51 per cent of people, dining out and restaurant selection is important for their overall trip experience. Seventy-three per cent have either planned or intend to plan a gastronomic getaway soon to a destination specifically to try the food it is famous for and 67 per cent have plans to visit a particular restaurant. In fact, 63 per cent of Indians will plan a gastronomic getaway in 2017.
TACT AND TASTE
NINETY
-six per cent Indians tip according to a hotel etiquette report whereas 34 per cent of them book hotels with a purpose of getting intimate with their partner. Thirtyfive per cent used a laptop or computer while booking followed by mobile app used by 29 per cent of people. Eighty-nine per cent Indians consider hotel reviews as very important while choosing one. As Indian travellers are evolving, 77 per cent consider the ability to earn and redeem reward points on their bookings as important. Ninety-four per cent of Indians prefer a free Wi-Fi connection at a hotel.
EXOTICA [12] NOVEMBER 2016
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TEMPLE RUN
The legend of Konark One of the most stunning examples of temple architecture in the world, the Sun temple is Odisha’s pride
KONARK
also known as ,Konaditya, is derived from the words ‘kona’ meaning corner and ‘arka’ meaning the sun. Situated at the north-eastern corner of Puri or the Chakrakshetra, Konark is also known as Arkakshetra. One of the most stunning monuments of religious significance — a true masterpiece of architecture — it proudly stands in the form of Sun Temple. A culmination of Oriya architecture, the temple is a wonderful place as the language of stone defeats all forms of human expression. Built in 13th century by King Narasimhadeva, the temple is designed in the shape of a colossal chariot with seven horses and 12 wheels, carrying the Sun god or Surya across heavens. The Sun god worshipped in “ark kshetra” is called Konark. Legend says that after killing the demon Gyasur, Lord Vishnu placed his belongings at several places to commemorate his victory. This was one of them. Surya has been a popular deity in India since the Vedic period and his description can be found in Rig Veda. The ruins of the temple were excavated in the late 19th century. The tower over
GETTING THERE The nearest railheads from Konark are Bhubaneswar and Puri. Nearest airport is Bhubaneswar. It is 65 km from Bhubaneswar, 35 km from Puri and 85 km from via Pipli. Best time to visit is from October to March.
the Garbagriha is missing, however the Jagmohana is intact, and even in this state, it is awe-inspiring. It is said that the temple was not completed because the foundation was not strong enough to bear the weight of the heavy dome. Local belief has it that it was constructed in entirety. However, its magnetic dome caused ships to crash near the seashore. The dome was removed and destroyed and the image of the Sun God was taken to Puri. The Konark temple is widely known not only for its architectural grandeur but also for the intricacy and profusion of sculptural work. The entire temple has been conceived as a chariot of the Sun god with 24 wheels, each about 10 feet in diameter with a set of spokes and elaborate carvings. The mandir in front of the Jagamohana is also intricately carved.
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SWEET HOME CALLING
HANOI
welcomes Asia Pacific’s first Novotel Suites with rooms which accommodate up to four people, coming with a kitchenette and several amenities. The debut property, Novotel Suites Hanoi, presents a new option to travellers in Vietnam’s capital who desire the services of a hotel with amenities and privacy of an apartment, offering a choice of 87 spacious studios and apartments. The culinary options at Novotel Suites Hanoi also set it apart from other serviced apartments boasting of Food Exchange, the all-day-dining restaurant. A fitness centre, heated outdoor pool, private library lounge and kids’ playground assure that Novotel Suites Hanoi offers all the comforts of home.
COSY TIME
INDIANS
no longer look for a special occasion or holiday to travel. A travel aggregator has conducted a survey where 33 per cent young Indians travel for relationships and distance gaps to meet their partners. Eighty-three per cent of respondents revealed that they do not worry about the distance of the travel destination. This suggests that logistics are no longer seen as a barrier and travellers now like to go with the flow.
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WINTER ADVENTURE
MANDARIN
THE LOVE NEST
ANDREAS
Caminada, the Swiss three Michelin-starred chef and Badrutt’s Palace Hotel have teamed up for a new venture. IGNIV by Andreas Caminada in Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is all about innovation and a fine-dining sharing experience. The brand IGNIV, Rhaeto-Romanic for “Nest”, is being expanded with a new restaurant on December 21. A perfectly matched couple, Andreas Caminada, the multiaward-winning top chef from Graubünden in Switzerland, and the “Grand Dame” of the Swiss luxury hotel world and landmark of St Moritz, Badrutt’s Palace Hotel form a partnership of equals.
Oriental Hyde Park, London will welcome the much loved bear Winnie-the-Pooh this winter. The Pooh Bear package invites little ones to discover Winnie at one of the most iconic buildings in Knightsbridge. Overlooking Hyde Park, the hotel is near the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain and a short walk from Harrods. The Pooh Bear package is priced from GBP 1,000 including English breakfast, 30-book box set and cuddly Winnie-the-Pooh teddy on arrival and Pooh Bear afternoon tea.
NOT ENOUGH PLAY
NEW
findings highlight the impact of work during family breaks and why travellers should be doing more of what they love. Fourty-one per cent in India have cancelled or postponed a break for work while 22 per cent can’t remember a holiday that was uninterrupted by work and less than 10 per cent in India have taken a holiday uninterrupted by work. Many of us are spending our holidays working instead of relaxing with our families, a regional survey has found. Only 1 in 10 are able to completely ‘turn off’ from work during a break. Key findings indicate that in today’s ‘always on, always connected’ world, travellers find it challenging to truly disengage from work.
EXOTICA [16] NOVEMBER 2016
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Currently I’m reading The Girl with a Lower Back Tattoo by Amy Schumer.
In shades I like the classic Raybans. FAVOURITE HAUNTS OF STYLISH PEOPLE
My prized possession would be a piece by Philip Lim. And I also love Nor Black Nor White and 11O11.
I love to wear sneakers by Adidas. I don’t have any heels in my closet.
The last vacation I had was in London. I would love to go to Bali to learn surfing.
MONICA DOGRA is an American singer and actress of Indian origin. She is a member of the electronic rock duo Shaa’ir and Func. She has made appearances in Bollywood movies
EXOTICA [19] NOVEMBER 2016
My playlist is eclectic. I have James Blake to Sohn playing on loop right now.
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FOOD TRAIL
meal There’s always
place for another
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A series of food experientials has been developed in Taiwan over the past few years and most hosts, including restaurants, have a cooking instructor explaining ingredients and cooking methods used for each dish tasted. The country, which has had a civilisational benchmark when it comes to ceramic ware, has taken its culinary experience to another level with dramatic, colourful and stylish utensils and cookware for each meal or beverage. DEEPAK KUMAR JHA turns gastronome
Sticky rice cooked in bamboo; (bottom) pearl milk tea
AMONG
the most famous Taiwanese species of fauna is the Formosan landlocked salmon. It is believed to have been trapped in the mountain lakes of central Taiwan during the last Ice Age when ocean levels dropped dramatically and the salmon could no longer migrate back and forth between fresh and salt water. Today the endangered species is being nurtured carefully at the Formosan Landlocked Salmon Refuge, which was established in the upper reaches of the Dajia River in Shei-pa National Park. So why talk of salmon when ostensibly the brief is to talk about Taiwan? But in a maze of Oriental sameness, one of the best things about Taiwan is it being a generous host to the gastronomy of the entire Asian continent — Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Thai, Indonesian, even Westernised preferences — and its home-grown, coastal obsession with sea food. It seems people live to eat in Taiwan. There are snack shops and restaurants located within convenient walking distances in every town and city. However, it is Taiwan’s native cuisine that I find unforgettable and has now gained worldwide attention. Try it once and you’ll remember it forever. My favourites
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(Clockwise) Danzai noodles; coffin sandwich; braised pork rice; boiled vegetables with spinach
include pearl milk tea, Danzai noodles, shrimp pork soup, oyster omelette, meat rice tamales, stinky tofu, Taiwanese meatballs, coffin sandwiches, vegetable and meat wraps, oyster vermicelli, steamed sandwiches and crushed ice desserts. Before this trip, I had dismissed my friends’ claim that I would be blessed with a merry girth. But with four meals a day, perhaps the only country in the world with such a diet grammar, I must admit tilting the scales. A series of food experientials has been developed over the past few years and most hosts,
including numerous restaurants, have a cooking instructor explaining ingredients and cooking methods used for each dish tasted. The country, which has had a civilisational benchmark when it comes to ceramic ware, has taken its culinary experience to another level with dramatic, colourful and stylish utensils and cookware for each meal or beverage. Taiwan’s food history is greatly entwined with China, culminating in the immigration of the Chinese Nationalist government to Taiwan in 1949 after communists took over mainland China. So
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(Top to bottom) black beans; chilli; traditional meals are mostly seafood owing to the vast coastal waters surrounding the country
Taiwan’s cuisine is very similar to that of Fujian province in southern China. However, it is also partly influenced by the Japanese and the longstanding traditions of indigenous tribes in the area and the Hakka people. All these combine to form what is known today as Taiwanese cuisine. The characteristics that probably best describe Taiwanese dishes are their simplicity in terms of presentation and the surprisingly complex tastes. Though influenced by China, Taiwanese had to adapt their dishes to the lack of resources in the country. Thus, unlike China’s elaborately prepared and arranged dishes, those of Taiwan’s are simpler and make use of what is readily available. This simplicity in aesthetics is balanced by the complex flavours that are a product of the different seasonings and spices taken from different cultures such as soy sauce, black beans, rice wine, sesame oil, pickles, chilli, mustard and parsley. Traditional meals are mostly seafood and fish-based owing to the vast coastal waters surrounding the country. This is paired with steamed rice and cooked very quickly in order to save energy. Other meats such as pork and chicken are also consumed although some regions have reservations about eating beef, because of the Buddhist reverence for the animal that they depend on for agriculture. Rice is the staple food in the country, but is compensated in some areas by sweet potato and taro roots. The rice is cooked in a variety of ways ranging from fried rice, rice with topping, rice noodles and rice vermicelli. Just like Japanese and
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(Clockwise) The Jiufen Old Street Market; the Shinlin and Rahoe Night Markets; jellyfish with shredded chicken; fried vegetable with mushrooms
Chinese practices, rice is made into snack as well in the form of mocha and a New Year’s cake. I particularly like the combination foods, especially barbeque and cold cuts with duck, chicken, jellyfish, herring, or for that matter fried shrimps with pepper, sauteed squid with garlic, simmered tiger prawn with eggplant, stewed frog with curry sauce, fried or roasted crab and sweetened sago rice along with coconut juice. The menu at one food outlet never repeats at any other restaurant. Even the at-home main course involves a balanced mix of flavours and nutrients, fried duck and Taros, fish cooked in Xo sauce, sauteed surf seafood with broccoli, fried vegetable with mushrooms, salted fish and chicken fried rice, the ultimate comfort food in chicken hotpot and dessert surprises in threaded turnip pancakes and red bean cake with sweet potato milk tapioca. For me the best combination though is that of sauteed Taiwanese cabbage, King oyster mushroom with egg yolk and boiled goose and Guangzhou Fried Noodles. Vegetarians need not get disheartened. The Hot Pot in main Taipei serves you some steamy
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readymade, spicy soup which the guest has to prepare on its own dining table equipped with a conduction heater and green vegetables. Sliced meat and sausages are made available to you on your table should you want them. While rice is a sticky affair here and really goes well with yoghurt (for vegetarians), flour is a distant delicacy. Instead refined flour (maida) is used in its dumplings, reminiscent of our own
obsession with momos back home. Pearl Milk Tea, made from a mixture of black tea, milk and sago pearls, is a fragrant and refreshing beverage that perks you up even in your lowest moments. The first thing to know about Taiwan's Danzai noodle soup or “wooden-stick noodle soup” is that it is not the crunchy Hakka variant. This dish was created by southern Taiwanese fishermen during the off-season, who would carry a wooden stick across their shoulders with pots suspended, peddling noodles instead of fresh seafood to customers. It was a resourceful way of making it through the slow season, which is maybe why there’s only one shrimp atop each bowl. Today, the dish is experiencing a resurgence in Taiwan, thanks to restaurants that have fondly recreated it on their menus. Like many dishes in Taiwan, this one incorporates both meat and seafood. The broth is often infused with the flavour of the sea by simmering shrimp heads and shells in a basic pork stock. Then, the noodles are topped with a longsimmered pork meat sauce that’s often served with rice or noodles. Slightly thick, chewy wheat-based
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noodles are the most common kind used. Before serving, the soup is given a kick of acidity from deep and unctuous black vinegar that’s drizzled over each bowl. This noodle soup is commonly eaten as a small snack, rather than as part of a multi-course meal for a group. Many traditional vendors grate a small amount of fresh garlic on top of each bowl, then place the shrimp on that. When stirred in, this addition balances the somewhat strong shrimp flavour of the dish, and is a signature flourish. Like most noodle soups in Taiwan, you can add optional stewed eggs, pickled radish, or other vegetables as garnishes, as well as fresh herbs like scallions or cilantro. With seas on all side, Taiwan enjoys a bounty of seafood that is served up in a wide variety of snack foods that have become ingrained in the culinary tradition of the island. Shrimp pork soup is one of these dishes that has become a night market mainstay. This dish is made mostly of shrimp potage flavoured with stewed pork and a thickening dash of potato starch to add body and chewiness. Add a splash of black vinegar to complement the sweetness of the soup and make this tasty dish even more delicious. Talking of night markets and street food, how can one miss the Oyster omelette? Unlike the western style, which relies only on beaten eggs to make a pancake, this one uses a flour and water mixture, which is about half of the material in the omelette itself. The oysters are coated in potato starch and tapioca. Eggs and
(Clockwise) king oyster mushroom with egg yolk; pork stock; meat tamales; stinky tofu
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leafy vegetables are added to the mixture, which is skillet-fried over a high flame. They top it with vegetables and finish with a special sauce. Similarly, the stinky tofu or fermented tofu may put you off but have it fried, boiled or served in a soup, with cabbages and sweet chilli sauce on the side, and you have an instant bowl of wholesomeness. Folk stories have it that the recipe was discovered during the Qing Dynasty by Wang Zhi He, a scholar who went to Beijing to take the Imperial examination. He failed. So he opened a tofu shop in town to keep going. One day, he had a stock of unsold tofu that he decided to keep longer. He cut them into square chunks, sprinkled salt on them and let them dry in the sun. After a while, the fermented tofu got a greenish colour. Wang Zhi He tasted it and found it unexpectedly good despite the odour. Excited, he even offered it to the Emperor as a gift. The Empress so appreciated it that she named it the “green imperial cube.” Nowadays, the stinky tofu recipe is still evolving and is often mixed up with spices. Of course, I have a special thing for leaf wraps, coming from the eastern part of India. Meat tamales, as they are called in Taiwan, are made of glutinous rice, mushrooms, peanuts, egg yolks and pork, all wrapped up in bamboo leaves, which impart their subtle flavour. Originally eaten only during the Dragon Boat Festival, this dish has become a year-round attraction at night markets throughout Taiwan. I recommend vegetable and meat wraps to the
familiar spring roll lovers, each wrap skin packed with goodies, including boiled cabbage, bean sprouts, sliced fried egg, barbecued pork, peanut powder and powdered sugar, and served warm. But how can a night crawl end without a touch of horror? So the speciality called Coffin Sandwich turns heads for its very unusual name. The sandwich is a thick slice of bread with a hollow centre filled with a mixture of chicken meat and liver, shrimp, carrots, potatoes and milk. The filling is then covered with another piece of bread and cut into four pieces. Best when eaten hot. The Jiufen Old Street Market and the Shinlin and Rahoe Night Markets are the best hubs for street food, traditional sweets and snacks amid rows of bazaar that peddle chic wear and styles at price points that align with the needs and desires of everybody. Most people enjoy three meals a day: breakfast, lunch and dinner. But the Taiwanese people love food so much, some of them eat a fourth meal called “xiao ye.” This is often compared to a midnight snack but is in reality a complete experience that you have to make space for.
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CKS Memorial drill
WHY INDIANS LOVE TAIWAN
TAIWAN
is one of the safest countries in the world. The culture is a blend of the modern and traditional, national and international, unique and universal. The influences of Taiwan’s complex political history, its indigenous peoples’ culture, Confucianism, Japan and
Western civilisation can all be seen at the same time. Of late, Indian students have been pouring into Taiwanese institutes, saying they rank as high as those in educational hubs like Singapore or Malaysia. Pursuing a course here is quite affordable even when compared to Indian private universities. Besides, these centres offer a host of
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opportunities as they have tied up with international universities. Many Indians are now settled across the provinces of Taiwan and have picked up Mandarin. “I came here to study management and have been staying here for the past five years,� says Leo Antony, a sales executive with the international tyre brand Maxxis. Leo, who hails from Chennai, has just been given the task to
represent the company in its upcoming manufacturing unit in Sanad in Gujarat which would be part of the Make in India initiative of Maxxis Tyres. To promote and to host students from India, the Taiwanese government has been offering scholarships and conducting higher education expositions across cities. Kalpana
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Senthamarikannan from Puducherry, who is pursuing a PhD in social network at the prestigious National Tsing Hua University (NTHU), says, “This country is very close to India, has very high benchmarks for education and has an absorptive culture.� Taiwan is a top draw for quality of life, healthcare and personal finance indices, No wonder Krishan Kumar Modi, a savvy businessman and one of the richest Indian entrepreneurs in the Forbes list, had chosen Taiwan to celebrate his grand super birthday. It has just been ranked first among 67 countries as
the best place for expats in 2016 by the International surveyor Expat Insider. For the birthday boy, it was not only one night to remember but nights and days to remember as he got in a group of dancers from Bollywood. The party had more than 350 guests, apart from 50 staff members and 30 chefs from India. The guests enjoyed their food and drinks at the Grand Hyatt Hotel located in the centre of Taipei. The Indian chefs were given an exclusive kitchen. In the Working Abroad Index, over one-third of expats in Taiwan (34 per cent) are completely satisfied with their jobs, more than double the
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(Clockwise) innovative culinary; Taipei street; aerial view of Taiwan
global average of 16 per cent. For overall satisfaction with life abroad in Taiwan, 93 per cent voice their general contentment. It comes as no surprise then that a majority of expats in Taiwan (64 per cent) plan to stay there longer than three years; with more than half of those (36 per cent in total) even considering staying there forever. Further, nine in ten expats give the friendliness of local residents towards foreigners a positive rating, compared to only 65 per cent worldwide. In the words of Chung Kwang Tien, Taiwan’s ambassador to India, Taiwan is not far from India and it can be reached in less than six hours by a direct flight from any Indian metropolis. “Taiwan, sabse accha desh for tourism. What are you waiting for?” he asks.
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MUST SEE SUN MOON LAKE
takes almost two-and-a-half hours, which
Famous for its clear, sparkling blue water set
involves zipping across a 12.7 km tunnel.
against a picturesque mountain backdrop in
The road gives you the glimpse of the calm,
Nantou county it can be reached by Taiwan’s 300
pristine and vivid blue Pacific ocean for almost
kmph high speed rail and some distance by
an hour.
road. This is the largest lake in Taiwan and a
HEHUAN MOUNTAIN
traditional spot for newly-weds.
In the winter, you can watch the snow fall on the
TAROKO
slopes of the mountain and then further travel 200
Situated in Hualien county, you can enjoy food
km to the balmy Pingtung county for reef dives.
at gourmet restaurants here happily situated in
The smaller islands, meanwhile, have their own
the lap of mountains. Travelling from Taipei
unique features, such as the basaltic pillars on
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(Left to right)Hehuan mountain in Nantou county; Beitou
the Penghu islands and the marine hot springs
It became a hot spring haven for the
along the shore of Turtle island.
Japanese common and elite during their
BEITOU
occupation of Taiwan. The Japanese harnessed
It is one of those places you cannot believe
the hot sulphur spring water, which literally flows
actually exists in Taipei city. Via the MRT, you can
underneath the area and emits a sulphur hot
leave the downtown bustle and noise and soak in
spring aroma wherever you walk, and opened
hot springs surrounded by a lush green park full
countless hot spring bath houses. It is a great
of Taiwan and Japanese history. Beitou district is
stop for the day or an overnight.
situated over the Datun volcano group. Even
You can also choose from some of the
though dormant, volcanic activities such as hot
popular and scenic national parks include
springs are still moving underneath the area.
Kenting, Dongsha Atoll and Taroko.
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FINER SIDE
PALLAVI SONI, Director, Loupe, talks about the brand building its niche in the luxury segment
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How do you define luxury? We believe that luxury is a feeling that is sensed. For some luxury might mean grandeur while for others it might be simplicity. It all depends on how luxury is perceived. What’s your jewellery philosophy? Loupe is all about translating a design from a sketch to a wellresearched handcrafted piece of art, one that is cherished by our valued customers for its contemporary and timeless quality. Each piece tells the tale of the expert artisanal quality and unparalleled design that translates it into a work of art. Where do you get the creative inspiration from? How do you approach a new collection? Each collection comes with a unique story. While the techniques and aesthetics are important, it’s also essential to have a story to tell and with our each collection. We design with a narrative in mind, drawing inspiration from life, art or tradition. Our inspiration lies in everyday life, ranging from history to art. With each collection, the idea is to recount a story to our customers and viewers. What is the specific about the brand and your jewellery? We always aim to imbibe finesse in our work, be it the brand or accessories. Being a one stop destination, from the inception to the making of the final product, we do not pursue trends but rather create
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them through our unique storytelling. Any trends to predict? What type of a woman do you have in mind when designing a certain line? In an industry like ours, trends are ephemeral. Rather than following them diligently, we always try to create trends through our collections. Our muse is an independent, free woman with contemporary and edgy taste. She is alluring not only because of her confidence and belief in liberty but also for her strength and unique perspective towards life. How big is the accessory business today from when you started? With the digital age at its prime, the accessory and jewellery business has evolved a great deal over the years, the growth being almost 50 per cent since we first started. The most valuable lesson you have learned? Dedication, consistency and love for one’s work and brand are of utmost importance which is something that translates in our work too. What materials and techniques do you favour? We accept the modern techniques and inculcate them in our work process, just as we value the ageold crafts and artisans who create wonders with their work.
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Q&A
over
Mind
matter
Never the one to mince words, the earthy enchantress and feisty actor RADHIKA APTE talks about dealing with controversies and standing for what she believes in. By UNNATI JOSHI
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From Rakhta Charitra, Shor in the City to Badlapur and Parched, you’re being recognised as a serious actor. There has been a sudden uncovering of Radhika Apte, people are talking about you more. My time is still to come. This is just the beginning. It took me a while to feel focussed about what I wanted to do in life. I did Shor in the City without thinking much. Back then I didn’t really know if this is what I wanted but now I am more at home with acting. It was only three years ago that it occurred to me that acting should be my career. So here I am, working hard towards my goal. Every step is a prayer. Your latest movie Parched was critically acclaimed globally. In India it majorly made headlines for its nude scenes. How do you process all this? Do you think such reactions reduce us to a bunch of prudes? I don’t need to process all this. I don’t make
controversies and I don’t react to them. It’s people who make them up. Everybody has a way of tackling ups and downs in their lives. Similarly, I have learned to handle controversies with ease. I take it with a pinch of salt. One person will pass a nude clip to another and that’s how a chain reaction starts. Where am I in all this? What’s my role? I’m not even a part of it. I think people in this country need to focus on positive things, issues which really need to be addressed. Also if people are curious about nakedness then I would suggest them to open up about their own bodies first and then look at others. We need to appreciate art, and the fact that I’m an actor means I would do anything my role demands from me. Realistically and not out of context. What appealed to you in Parched? I play Lajjo, who is an uneducated young girl and is
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married off very early. Her universe revolves around thinking that the sole purpose of her life is giving her husband a child. And when she finds out that she is infertile, her world comes crashing. She feels worthless and thinks her existence is of no use. She doesn’t want this life of denial. It’s a very strong role I feel and I really enjoyed playing it. It’s basically her journey to self-discovery. You went to London to learn movement analysis soon after Shor in the City, what was the thought behind the move? And how did it help you in your craft? I used to be a Kathak dancer and I got introduced to contemporary dance by Gauri Vanarase in Pune. I used to learn from her for a long time. I always wanted to go out to learn dance but I never had the time. I was over committed in theatre and had five productions going on. I had a year off later which was the right time for me to take the plunge, I thought. And it changed my life completely, in every way possible. My personal life, my point of view, how I feel about work, everything has changed now. We have mostly seen you in regional movies. Do you consciously want to stay away from mainstream cinema? No, not at all. I get a lot of scripts, both from regional and mainstream films. I’m not taking them all. Obviously can’t. I don’t know which project I will take up next. But I don’t discriminate between commercial and regional cinema unlike what people think. That’s not how I choose. There was never a conscious decision to do regional cinema only. I never thought I will do films in seven languages. When a script comes to you, you have to decide on the basis of the content and I do exactly that. For me it’s the script, not the region it’s coming from or the language it will be made in.
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Your role in Ahalya grabbed quite a few eyeballs. Did you ever expect a short film to get such an overwhelming response? Honestly I never thought about the critical acclaim the movie got. I did it as a fun exercise because Sujoy and I wanted to work together. He’s a good friend and he said, ‘Let’s spare three days and shoot, there will be good food’ and so I went and had a great time but didn’t expect a response like this. Sujoy is great at his craft and knows what he’s doing. He’s a magician. It feels great to have worked with him. You are known for your understated sensuality. Do you feel somehow that reflects in the characters you play onscreen or do you choose to play such roles? I don’t know, it’s upto the audience. I think every person has some sensuality in them. We all do to an extent, just that we need to grow on it. If the character is not supposed to be sensual but still I’m portraying it like that then that’s wrong. It means I’m a bad actor then.
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Except Rajnikant, what made you give a nod to Kabali and was it any different essaying the role of Kumudhavalli with him? I had already given a nod because of Rajinikant. How can you say no to a film with God? But the bonus I got was the director Ranjit. He has a very different way of looking at work. And I had a good part. Kumudhavalli has a very particular set of values. In the film, there are a lot of flashbacks where he (Rajinikant) draws inspiration from her dialogues. So she acts like a muse to him. What are your upcoming projects? Do we see you in Bollywood masala anytime soon? Masala, I don’t know. I think what I do is quite masala, it’s just a perspective. I recently did three films Bombairiya, Ashram and Ghoul which will hit the screens soon.
Any actor you would want to do a movie with? Lots. Newbies, well established, superstars. I have no dream. I’m open to anything and anyone. I don’t have much restrictions. What’s your fashion mantra? If you ever meet me anywhere, you would find me wearing the most loose and airy outfit that I can slip in very easily and comfortably. Which is why when it comes to wedding or Diwali you will never see me wearing anything heavy because I just can’t carry such outfits. I always want to feel like I’m on a holiday. Breezy and light. It’s a state of mind more than anything else. Also, to tell you honestly, I am not somebody who spendthrifts. I have never been like that, I think that’s how my upbringing has been. I wouldn’t go and spend a bomb on a dress ever. I prefer simplicity and comfort over avant garde fashion.
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T R A V E L TA K E
City
of
dreams SHAHNAZ HUSAIN reveals why she loves holidaying in London
I HAVE
travelled extensively but London with its old charm is my favourite for business, relaxation and sightseeing. It is actually a home away from home. I love everything about it especially the long walks in beautiful Hyde Park — an epitome of peace and tranquility. The Speaker’s corner provides a deep insight on diverse topics in its unique amusing style. Serpentine lake has these beautiful swans, a sight to behold and a truly memorable experience! Covent Garden is also a favourite. It bustles with street entertainers, local visitors and tourists. There is a bit of fun for everyone. I find myself taking a childlike delight, watching the aweinspiring performances by acrobats and jugglers. And this is one place where I am transported to my
childhood days, enjoying the merry-go-round and stunt performances. I also love Oxford Street and Carnaby Street, with their world class stores. I go there to shop. Handbags are a favourite with me and during my recent trip I bought several. They are a compulsory accessory for me. Having globe-trotted a great deal, one of the most important tips that I can give to prospective travellers is to take care of their travel documents and passport. I remember an incident where my husband and I had just landed in Paris and found to our shock that one of our bags was missing. It contained all our documents. With the smattering of French that I knew, I explained to Starbucks why I couldn’t pay for my coffee! We then took a taxi to the Indian Embassy and I spoke to the Ambassador and borrowed money to pay the fare. Phew! I’ll always remember that night.
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LIKE UNLIKE
People BHAVYA KOHLI and MANHAR OBEROI have come up with WakoW — an app to help people connect with each other based on shared interests
IT’S
no denying that all social circles reach a point of saturation. Meeting like-minded people and finding a community to share your hobbies and interests is something that many of us find a little tough. Those of you looking for a target audience for business have your own share of
hassles. Not anymore. With an aim to revolutionise the way people connect and discover each other, WakoW App Technologies has launched the “Wakow” application in India. Available on Apple iOS app store and Google Playstore, Wakow is targeted towards People who want to connect with like-minded people in their vicinity.
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The app tracks the geographical location and interests of the users and suggests the most suitable people thereby. It works at a global level with connections made primarily through geo-tagging and checkins. Once you check into a place, you can automatically see which friends of yours are close by. The app offers a robust and extremely dynamic set of categories for people. Whether it’s gathering your local RWA, arranging play-dates for your child, finding people to cycle or even carpool with, it has it all. It also has segments for physically challenged people, divorcees, LGBTQ and others which include finding dog mates, a panic button to send distress signals to people around you. Another unique feature of the app is that it can connect people based on their nationality. For example, if you’re in Spain, you can log onto Wakow and find fellow Indians. Also, it allows you to “wish list” a partner. If you want a jogging partner who’s not necessarily in your existing circle of friends, Wakow can help you find one. It also has a dating feature called “personals”. There are only a few apps in the market that give such a huge room to wiggle around. There are apps for sports, carpools, dating and education but Wakow allows the user to play god with a greater level of flexibility. “We are not competing with any app in particular, we are just making our users aware that Wakow will do away with the need for multiple apps. Wakow is a one-stop solution. We are looking to hit 50,000 users in next six months,” said Bhavya Kohli. “Shuru” — Wakow’s upcoming category — allows startups to use the app as a platform to announce and promote their new products and services free of cost. It also welcomes events and experiential companies to share their portfolio. The current version of the app is just a tip of the iceberg, it has tonnes up its sleeves. Added Manhar Oberoi, “The Indian market has not yet matured for these kind of applications and we are sort of leading the way to develop such a market. But we are happy with the response so far.”
BHAVYA KOHLI is the mind behind Wakow. He is the one with the responsibility to ensure that it is constantly innovating and evolving into an app which revolutionises the way we live and do business.
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MANHAR OBEROI is the co-founder and is involved with the buzz creation of the app, so that maximum people benefit from Wakow. He is also responsible for monitoring the financial credence of the company.
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ROOT MUSIC
Symphony of the
sand
Mehrangarh Fort turned into a melting pot of vibrant cultures as leading musicians across the globe gathered at the Rajasthan International Folk Festival. By JIGYASU JOSHI
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AFTER
tuning his oud, a pearshaped string instrument from Greece, Taxiarchis Georgoulis shows off his skills to the musically-blessed Manganiyar kids. One of them starts crooning a folk number in sync with the sound of the instrument. Backstage, rehearsing right before his performance, Georgoulis is soon joined by lyra players — Kelly Thompa and Ross Daly. The jamming session in the 10x10 room picks up tempo when Australian drummer Ben Walsh joins the team. Ben, who makes a drum out of a plastic water barrel, is excited about the impromptu orchestra. Unrehearsed. Yet so palpable.
As soon as Ross, Kelly, Georgoulis and Ben leave the room, a next set of artistes fill in. Jeff Lang is practising his slide guitar with Asin Khan Langa, an artiste from Rajasthan. As part of Maru Tarang — a collaboration comprising Bobby Singh (on tabla), Asin Khan Langa (Sindhi sarangi and vocals) and Bhungar Khan Manganiyar (on khartal) — Jeff is perhaps the most talkative of the group, frequently cracking jokes as they rehearse. This is the fifth year of the collaboration and the members feel that there is still a long way to go. Taking a break from rehearsals, Jeff stretches his back and says, “Bahot acche,” eliciting a rip-roaring laughter from his Indian counterparts. Under the open sky, amid the
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sands of time, they connect over universal melody. Timeless and eternal. Mehrangarh Fort, looming over the city on a stark hillside, comes to life during the brightest full moon of the autumn. Starting just before dawn and continuing well into the night, Rajasthan International Folk Festival showcases singers and musicians drawn mainly from Rajasthan and elsewhere in India. Some are well-known on India’s music scene; others have rarely performed outside their own communities and, in this respect, RIFF is helping to reinvigorate centuries old yet long-faded tradition of artistic patronage. Jeff is one of those artistes who believes that the beauty of music is felt the strongest when people connect even without understanding the language. “It’s been five years now since we started collaborating and I’m sure that it’s the magic of
music that has kept us whole for so long,” smiles the guitarist. Sharing his experience of working with the folk artistes, Jeff believes that there are many things which he has learnt through his collaborations. “It’s just how much more I have got to go with my instruments. It shouldn’t be like I’m really struggling to keep up. You can always hear someone who will inspire you to improve and feel good about it. There’s always room for me to improve and learn while playing with these people,” he says. Jeff Lang is many things to many people and has many aspects to his music but for his fans it’s his virtuoso performances on the lap steel guitar which make him a tour de force amongst all the musicians. He also shares that there are times when he thinks that it is not happening and he is lagging behind when Asin, Bhungar or Bobby
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would come and motivate him. “I’m sure they are just being nice to me,” adds Jeff.
THE TORCHBEARERS
AS
Lakha Khan Manganiyar comes on the stage to present his folk culture to the patrons of music, he first raises his hands to greet the Maharaja of Jodhpur expressing his gratitude for being invited to perform. He mesmerises the audience with his three back-to-back performances and goes backstage in a thunder of applause. He speaks of a bygone era when his father Tharu Khan urged him to continue his legacy long after he was gone. Like an obedient son and a faithful pupil, Lakha Khan strictly adhered to his teachings on how to hold tones and internalised the stories behind ragas. “When I was
eight years old, I would have my meal next to my father while he played. I wasn’t learning to play at that time but I loved what he played. It was when I turned 11 that my father started teaching me how to play the Sindhi sarangi,” he tells us. It is an interesting string instrument made of seesham wood with 26 strings wherein four main strings are tied with moranas in which two strings are prepared by goat’s intestine and the rest from steel. Now in his 70s, Khan is the seventh generation in a family of musicians who have been carrying forward the tradition of Rajasthani folk and sufi music whose legacy is said to date back almost 400 years. He reminisces the time when he first went for his international performance. “I was wondering the whole time whether the foreigners would understand the music and the language of
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it. It was very confusing to me. However, after every song we performed, the audience applauded us. It was then that I understood that it was not the lyrics but the universal language of music which was keeping us intact,� shares he. A recipient of the Sangeet Natak Akademi award, Lakha Khan is one of the last in the Manganiyar lineage to have mastered the Sindhi sarangi.
THE STORIES OF THE PAST Gathered at the Chokelao Bagh under a large tent, people are ready to listen to an artiste from the
tribal community of Mewat. He is a little apprehensive about playing the instrument as he thinks that the sound emanating from it might not seem melodious to all. The instrument he represents is made out of bamboo wood with buffalo horn attached to the end — acting as a sound enhancer. The bass sound at first feels heavy but gradually turns mellifluous. And he is happy seeing people enjoying the sound. Travelling to the depths of Rajasthan, Bhagwandas Solanki was the one responsible for finding out rare folk instruments and tribes who play them.
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“It is tough to travel far inside the villages and trace the roots of folk music and culture. But once we find it, it is very important to make people aware about these instruments. It’s all about their preservation,” he says. In the following session, Dr Vijay Verma enlightens everybody on aero-phonic folk instruments. Verma, along with the players of the instruments like murla, algoza, been, narh, surnai and many others, demonstrate them through several odd performances as the audience gapes at the structure of some of these instruments and the different sounds they
could produce. Explaining about the instruments, Verma goes on, “It is a sad fact that folk instruments are vanishing rapidly. The origin of some of the instruments goes back to 300 years and today there are very few people who are still holding on to these.” Calling these instruments ingenious, he says, “Folk music is something magical. It is not about what sound is coming from the instrument. It is about how by using things around us, we can create not just sound but music. This is magic and primal for me.”
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Pempa Khan Manganiyar, who plays and represents surnai and murli believes that with collective efforts, it is possible to save the dying art and instruments. “One interesting thing about these instruments is that they are made at home by the people who play them. So there is a natural bond between the instrument and the player since the very beginning. I think that is the reason why these instruments are still surviving,” says Pempa.
IN THE DUSK Come sundown, Meherangarh Fort is cleared of visitors. We make way to Rao Jodha Park outside the fort in almost pitch darkness. With the stunning fort as the backdrop, a small group of dark-skinned men in red turbans command attention from a low platform rendering soulful music. Sitting in the audience is Davy Sicard with his wife. The multi-instrumentalist, singer and songwriter is relaxing after his much power packed performance for the Moody RIFFS. He says, “It is not just about the music these artistes play but the depth of their vocals and the honesty which they show towards art that sways me.” While being a part of this musical fiesta, we feel that RIFF is not only a music festival but a heady mix of root textures, contemporary arrangements and global rhythm.
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HYDRO POWER
Building a
better future
NHPC is generating power for the nation and spreading its wings globally
SINCE
its inception in 1975, NHPC has been the flag bearer of hydropower development in India. It is a multidisciplinary organisation having expertise and state-of-the-art technology for investigation, planning, designing and executing hydropower projects. The technical and engineering proficiency and experience of NHPC places it in a leading position in the field of hydropower development. It contributes around 15 per cent of total hydropower installed capacity in India. Today, NHPC has installed capacity of 5,147 MW on standalone basis and through its subsidiary NHDC, a joint venture with Government of Madhya Pradesh, NHPC further contributes 1,520 MW of capacity to the nation’s hydro kitty. The average annual profit of NHPC for last five years is more than `2,100 crore and average annual capex of the company during this period was `3,100 crore. A BSE and NSE listed company, NHPC has excellent operating margin of more than 65 per cent and has not taken equity support from government since 2007-08. NHPC follows “Employee Empowerment” approach to leverage the potential of its employees. Generation from NHPC power stations is showing steady growth. NHPC power stations generated 23,683 MUs in FY 2015-16 against MoU target of 22,000 MUs. Cumulative PAF of NHPC Power Stations during FY 2015-16 was 81.6 per cent.
KM Singh, CMD, NHPC CAPACITY ADDITION PROGRAMME Three hydropower projects with total installed capacity of 3,130 MW are under construction and a wind power project of 50 MW in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan is ready for commissioning as PPA has been signed with Government of Rajasthan and Inox Limited. NHPC has already added 1,372 MW capacity in 12th plan. The corporation is expecting to add another 330 MW of installed capacity by commissioning Kishanganga Project (330 MW) in this financial year. Also, 100 MW each is expected to be added from wind and solar power projects. NHPC aims to commission these projects as early as possible and become a 10,000 MW company.
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(L to R) 120 MW Sewa II Power Station (Jammu & Kashmir)-Dam; 160 MW TLDP IV Power Station (West Bengal)-Dam
MoU has been signed with Government of West Bengal and West Bengal State Electricity Distribution Company Limited for development of four hydro projects with total capacity of 293 MW by NHPC on Build, Own, Operate and Maintain (BOOM) basis. MoU has also been signed with Solar Energy Corporation of India for development of 250 MW Grid connected Solar Power Projects. NHPC alongwith JKSPDC and PTC has formed a JV Company, CVPPP Limited for implementation of PakalDul, Kiru&Kwar Projects in Chenab River Basin with total installed capacity of 2,164 MW. GLOBAL VENTURES AND NETWORK NHPC has spread its foot print in international arena also. Some of the important overseas assignments include DPR for Chamkharchhu-I (770 MW) alongwith PFR for KuriGongri Basin Projects for Royal Government of Bhutan and Government of India. To explore and avail business opportunities in the field of hydropower projects in overseas market, a MoU has been signed with BHEL wherein BHEL will undertake electromechanical package and NHPC will undertake civil and related works of the hydropower projects. EXPANDING HORIZON In order to avail maximum opportunities in power sector as well as for diversifying its business portfolio NHPC has also ventured into solar, wind and thermal sector. 50 MW wind power project in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan is likely to be commissioned shortly. Another MoU has been signed with Government of Kerala for development of grid interactive wind power project in Palakkad district with a potential of 82 MW. NHPC has also signed agreement with Teesta Urja Limited for providing
consultancy services for Project Construction Management for 1,200 MW Teesta-III. COMMUNITY INITIATIVES NHPC has always been a socially conscious organisation and is proactive towards uplifting life of community in and around its projects, power stations and units. It has undertaken a number of CSR initiatives like Swachh Vidyalaya Abhiyan wherein NHPC constructed more than 7,000 toilets in government schools in eight states. During the financial year 2015-16, NHPC invested more than `72 crore towards CSR initiatives. NHPC is laying emphasis on using sustainable, renewable resources of power generation to meet the increasing demand for energy. Hydropower is the best and dependable renewable energy technology.
STEADY FINANCIAL PERFORMANCE
NHPC has authorised share capital of `15,000 crore. It has paid up capital of over `11,000 crore and its current investment base is over `50,000 crore. NHPC registered a 15 per cent growth in the standalone net profit at `2,440 crore in the FY 2015-16 as against `2,124 crore for the corresponding period during last fiscal year. Sales for the FY 2015-16 also rose by nine per cent to `7,347 crore compared to `6,737 crore for the corresponding period in the last fiscal year. A final dividend of `1.50 per equity share for the year 2015-16 has been paid which comes out to `1,660.60 crore against total dividend of `664.25 crore for the year 2014-15.
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A F R I C A N S A FA R I
Get up, close and personal with the African animal kingdom experiencing aerial views on hot air balloons. By M MADHUSUDAN
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Earth from space
ANITA
Babbar, reads the nameplate of the lady who welcomes and greets us with a smile as we arrive at the Mabula Game Lodge (MGL) in Limpopo province, two-and-a-half hour’s drive from Johannesburg. Yes, Anita is an Indian, with roots in Kerala and Goa. “It’s been 17 years for me here,” she tells us. Pretty long time in the wild, we say. The polite lady is the housekeeping head of the luxurious MGL that hosts tourists from across the world at
this private game reserve spread over 12,000 hectares and home to around 60 mammal species including the Big Five of Africa besides some 300 bird species. If an exciting encounter with the Big Five — elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, lion and wild buffalo — is the main attraction that pulls tourists in droves to South Africa, then MGL’s great hospitality —with Anita’s personal attention to us—in thatch-roof suites with luxury finishings amid picture-perfect settings makes the trip a lifetime experience.
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The reserve is divided into two. The Mabula Lion pride lives in the Madjuma section. And in the foothills of the Waterberg Mountains a familyfriendly, malaria-free safari can be experienced. There are open vehicle safaris, guided bush walks, horse trails and eco-adventure quad bike trails. You can even witness a reptile demonstration and learn about stars or for that matter, even archery. Chris, the ever-smiling, cheerful, young and lanky ranger, meets us and we are off on an open-vehicle safari in the Mabula wilds. It’s around 4 in the evening. In the next two hours, we are fortunate to have sighted up and close three of the Big Five, with the leopard being elusive and a ride
to Madjuma, where the lion pride is, being scheduled for the morning after. A herd of African elephants, busy among themselves, slowly advances towards us and makes it known we should be better off than disturb them; the wild buffaloes pay little heed to us, though we are told by Chris that they are the most “unpredictable” ones; and the rhinoceroses — a couple of them with their new born calves — give us side glances as they walk past us. Giraffes, zebras, wild hogs, kudus, elands, deer and baboons make for the rich fauna that Mabula boasts of. But amidst them is a single ostrich that catches our attention. Chris informs us its other four companions have been hunted down by the leopard.
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Chris was born in South Africa and lived here for three years before moving to Australia. Having spent around two decades there, he is back in his country of birth to be a Ranger, one whose keen interest in avian species is evident as he informs about each bird we sight during our two-hour stay at MGL with the same spirited enthusiasm. Lilac-breasted roller, yellow and red billed hornbills, the African grey hornbill, fork-tailed drongo, crested barbet and predator birds such as the lizard buzzard, they are all there. Early morning on Day Two, we set off for our most anticipated encounter with the resident lion’s pride. With the cold morning wind kissing our
cheeks, the vastness of MGL sinks in as we travel for around an hour, stopping briefly at times to witness some herds’ and birds’ movements, to reach where the pride is, soaking, lazying and enjoying a siesta in the sun after a good feast. It was perhaps a rendezvous with the King of The Jungle, as we did not have to wander around much looking out for them. But the leopard remained elusive, though it was sighted by a group only a couple of days ago. If the adventures throughout the day make you tired, you can soothe your weary muscles in the large stone bath at the suites or indulge in the Mabula spa. MGL boasts of 47 elegant bedrooms, in bushveld colours and an African flavour.
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It is renowned for its ethnic cuisine and variety of unusual dining venues with guests having a choice of dining in the lodge restaurant, or a candle-lit Boma dinner under an African sky accompanied by the spectacular trademark African entertainment.
The Indian touch MGL has a special treat for the Indians, who throng here during the summer vacations when the schools are closed. There’s a specialist Indian chef available on-site, to provide a range of delectable traditional Indian dishes, from lamb masala to
moong dal, freshly prepared rotis to pooris and poha. The presence of Indian origin hospitality staff on the property makes us feel at home.
Balloon Safari It’s sunrise and we are at the field for Bill Harrop’s “Original” Balloon Safari. The calmness of the cold morning at the flights operation base is only punctuated with either the occasional blast of the powerful burners — as the balloons are getting readied — or the excited banter of the bunch of passengers/tourists who are here to experience the thrilling one-hour adventure. But before that, you
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are served tea, coffee and biscuits. In fact, there’s also hot “out of the oven” muffins. Bill Harrop, the 74-year-old Englishman who is the owner of the Safari, would be our pilot. Bill is also an examiner of tests for aspiring pilots. The emphasis on Original in his company’s name is because he was the pioneer in hot air ballooning in South Africa, where many other companies offering similar services have cropped up over the years. It’s his family business and he has been running it since 1981. The balloon field is located in the Magalies River Valley in the region of Cradle of Humankind
World Heritage Site, which showcases the dramatic discoveries that have changed the way we view humanity through scientific exhibitions at the Sterkfontein Caves. In Maropeng, one can indulge in star-gazing. The Caves are one of the key fossil sites of the Cradle of Mankind and the exhibitions show the finds of Hominin Fossils such as ‘Mrs Ples’ and ‘Little Foot’. A set of drills and instructions done, we ascend gradually and drift majestically high above the Magaliesberg Mountain Range and enjoy the vast expanse of fields with asparagus cultivation in some stretches and water bodies or small dams at
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some, birds flying parallel to us, cattle herds down below looking like miniatures and of course, the cool breeze. Bill points to a dilapidated roofless house to inform us the British invaders had taken it over and captured its inhabitants. It remains unoccupied since then. The region has one of the best ballooning weathers in the world and Bill and his team operate six large balloons that can carry between six and 18 passengers each. With such captivating beauty all around, we are clueless that it’s over an hour and it’s time for our descent. It’s a deftly coordinated and manoeuvred landing, which we make on a pick-up truck of Bill’s company. The landing is “celebrated” with some sparkling wine, soft drinks and champagne, before we move to the
Clubhouse Pavilion Restaurant at the property for a sumptuous breakfast. It is here that we have the icing on our adventure cake. Bill and his team announce the award of certificates or citations for each of their passengers amid applause. And the citation does make an interesting read — “It is hereby confirmed that (passenger’s name) had the courage and fortitude to ascend (as few other earthly mortals would dare) unto the aether, and thus joined the great and daring intrepid Aeronaut explorers who have been transported in an Aerostat floating on the gentle zephyrs over the vast continent of Africa — Thus done and signed by me, Captain.” Post-descent, this citation takes you higher than the balloon did!
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TRAVEL TIPS
Bonvoyage! Avoid weekends Avoiding the weekends can make a huge impact on the price of flights. Why not compare travel from a Wednesday to Wednesday rather than a Friday to Friday? Fly indirect Indirect routes to your destination will cost much less and will even give you time to explore more than one destination. Thus you can make the most with the least. Mix and match Using a combination of airlines can also prove to be an effective cost-saving strategy. Different airlines charge differently on similar routes. Mix and match the airlines to find the best price. Alternative airport Even though there may be an airport at the doorstep, don’t rule out the possibility that it may be cheaper to fly from one slightly far away.
Here are a few things to make your next trip hassle-free
Beat the baggage fee If you’re worried about excess baggage charges, why not wear your extra items instead of cramming them into your case? Weigh your bag before leaving home. Save on accommodation Try websites that allow locals to rent out their apartments. Have the comfort of staying at ‘home’ even on a holiday. Eat like a local Not only is tasting new cuisines part of the joy of travelling but you’re likely to eat far better as well. Locally sourced produce is tastier too. Another top tip is stocking up from the hotel buffet breakfast and shopping in local supermarkets for lunch. Save on foreign currency exchange Most banks will charge for each cash withdrawal on top of a commission fee. Take out larger sums so you’re charged less frequently.
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HILL HIKE
Prism of hues Spot the rare winterline as Mussoorie gets ready to embrace the white season. By ANUPMA KHANNA
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keen traveller is an artist,who paints the canvas of his memory with the kaleidoscopic palette of his setting and experiences. And at this time of the year, the stately hill station of Mussoorie, glistening in the afterglow of intense rains, presents itself as a wanderer’s perfect muse. Bathed and nourished by the monsoon, Mussoorie will look like a gorgeous, fresh bride come November. This, undeniably, is the time to honeymoon with the ‘Queen of hills’. November celebrates the arrival of winter in Mussoorie in full
glory. With a fond adieu from torrential showers cascading down its sublime slopes, the popular holiday town is covered in lush greenery that kisses a translucent azure sky, as the golden sun smiles at the beauty with its balmy rays. While tourists flock to Mussoorie during summers to beat the heat of the plains, for those who fancy living the most magical magnificence of mountains now is the time to arrive. Mussoorie’s most precious jewel is the Winterline — the one attraction that alone makes a stay in the hill town an affair not to be missed.
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Not many people know that Mussoorie, situated in the north Indian state of Uttarakhand, is the only place in the world other than the Burn Valley in Switzerland where the natural wonder called the winterline occurs. From November till around the end of January, the sky in Mussoorie takes on a magical appearance at twilight with the natural formation of a mesmerising band of striking hues — a brilliant red, orange, yellow and mauve, that looks as if the heavens have descended to mingle with the sky. As the sun sets behind a false horizon, a fabulous band of molten gold segregates the sky with yellow and orange daubs at the upper end of this strip. These hues darken as the winters turn crispier. It is an unforgettable sight. But what causes this mysterious marvel? According to experts at
the Winterline Foundation at Woodstock School, it is the refraction of sunlight at a particular angle in the skies of Mussoorie, most discernible when the sun sets over the Doon Valley. ‘The warm smog, which is laden heavily with carbon molecules, acts as a dark screen and bounces the hues of yellow, orange, red and magenta which emit from the red setting sun. The vast variation in the elevation from the Valley to Mussoorie enables such a sight,� says one of the experts. Interestingly, the winterline in Mussoorie is said to be even more vivid and captivating than the one that adorns Switzerland. The variation in the elevation in Switzerland is not that vast as that of Mussoorie and even the horizon there is not as wide as Mussoorie. The winterline can be seen from the entire south face of the Mussoorie ridge including
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PHOTOS: BHUMESH BHARTI
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the popular Mall Road. For those who fancy the best view of this rare magical phenomenon, Landour Cantonment, Gun Hill and Radha Bhawan Estate are some of the best locations. November is also the time for Mussoorie’s biggest cultural festival — the annual Winterline Carnival. Spread usually over a period of four days during month-end and organised by the Government of Uttarakhand, the carnival offers everything from music, art and food to outdoor adventures like nature walks and biking expeditions. And even for those who make shopping a big part of their holiday, there are sales galore. Winters in this part of the country are also the ideal time for a rejuvenating holiday for its cleaner, quieter roads, unlike the summers when the place is chock-a-block with sundry tourists. Given lesser traffic and crowd, one gets to enjoy story-book like serene pleasures — the sweet singing of birds alighting on the branches of tall trees standing ceremoniously, the crisp mountain wind caressing the face, the comfort of the winter sun and a lot more. So visit this hill city in its full glory and sigh not even if you can’t make it to the top for as said beautifully by Mussoorie’s very own Ruskin Bond, “It doesn’t matter, the long walk has brought its own sweet rewards; buttercups and butterflies along the way.”
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H E R I TA G E WA L K
The restored Dharampura Haveli is a boutique experience in the heart of crowded Chandni Chowk. Just as it was meant to be centuries ago. EXOTICA does a walkthrough
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“IF
the world is a body, Delhi is its soul,” wrote legendary poet Mirza Ghalib. Vidyun Goel would have dismissed such paeans to the passion and imagination of Old Delhi’s most famous resident had it not been for her visit to the Dharampura Haveli. “Once I wanted to see the Taj Mahal but my father (Sports Minister and Chandni Chowk conservationist Vijay Goel) brought me here and told me that if restored, this place would revive the Mughal aura and grandeur of Shahjahananabad and recreate an era of life as it was
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through the old walls. A few metres from Jama Masjid, the restored haveli sits between temples. Did you know that this mansion was called Dharmapura because of its proximity to different religious shrines, a secular confluence of ideas and art? “Hindu and Muslim mansions had little to differentiate them, even as the owner’s perception of life and his beliefs mostly influenced haveli architecture. It was not screaming your identity but your understanding of aesthetics,” says Vidyun.
BUILT
PHOTOS: PANKAJ KUMAR
lived. This would be more than a mausoleum or a monument. He vowed to restore the haveli though I had written it off as wishful thinking then. Now that it has opened its doors to a new generation, there’s hope in the ruins of a Mughal past,” she tells us. The late afternoon sun streams in through the jharokas and stained glass windows, bouncing off the flourishes on decorated balconies. You can almost hear court dancers practising for the evening and strains of classical ragas seeping
during the late Mughal and colonial periods, the haveli facades are magnificently carved in buff and red sandstone. The fronts are decorated with floral patterns, sculptures and fluted designs. The interiors have a central courtyard around which rooms are built in what is known as the central courtyard plan. One side usually has a small stone stairway leading to the first floor. The distinguishing features are the grand old wooden doors with iron or brass and copper fittings with intricate designs on them and arched niches. The wall, the rooms, the arch-vault jack roofs and arcaded verandas are said to represent colonial features. Beautiful jharokhas (windows), chattris (umbrellas), small decorative balconies, fluted columns, well-designed chabutras (platforms), traditional baithaks (drawing rooms) and marble floors are features of the Mughal architectural styles. The havelis are set on a high platform above street level. Fine and detailed fluted designs depicting different themes adorn the interiors. The use of stained-glass windows, generally associated with churches, is another special feature. Most havelis have a distinctly marked outer area. The nobleman or owner conducted his routine work and attended to official business here. The inner area constituted the personal living space. The central portion of the building, the diwankhana, acted as the drawing room. As imitations of imperial constructions, havelis also had a profusion of gardens, fountains and fruit trees.
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CROWNING GLORY
DELHI
went into something of an eclipse from the time of Humayun to the accession of Shahjahan, the great Mughal builder who in 1648 built Shahjahanabad, the seventh city of Delhi. The haveli is attributed to the late Mughal era, though a part of it is a later addition in the 20th century. During the Mughal and the late Mughal periods, courtiers and noblemen announced their proximity to the emperor and the worth of their counsel by building havelis. Historical references suggest that construction of the Dharmapura haveli dates to 1887 AD. It was originally designed to have a mixed-use pattern for both residential and commercial purposes. Shops on the lower ground floor opened towards the street while the remaining floors were designed in an insular pattern to ensure privacy. The ground floor and the grand entrance and the first floor were constructed in the same period. The second floor
clearly seems to be a later addition, perhaps in the mid-20th century. The havelis were not built at random spots, but in suitable surroundings. The terraces were planned with a sense of purpose, apart from providing privacy. Khus (aromatic grass) screens, kept constantly moist, helped keep the summer heat away while the fine stone screens with beautifully worked geometric patterns served as ventilators. Some of the large rooms had fireplaces; the smaller ones were heated with sigris (charcoal braziers) full of red-hot coals. Patterned stonework embellished the ceramic tiles but these are rarely seen now. Clearly, the owner of Dharampura haveli wanted to make a statement. Which is why one of its approaches is through Dariba Kalan, the famous jewellery market, and the Kucha Seth, which was magnificent and historic Jain temples with beautiful carvings, almost flowing into the interiors.
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OLD
NEW
A FEAT CALLED RESTORATION
TIME,
irrelevance and negligence took their toll on the haveli, which was reduced to an ordinary run-down structure with unrecognisable spaces and falling plaster. The structure was overloaded with several ad hoc and inappropriate additions on every floor. The rooms were badly organised and divided into smaller rooms to accommodate toilet, kitchens of every claimant and stakeholder. The service connections, including open pipes and hanging wires, added to the chaos, waiting for calamity to happen any time. The doors and windows were blocked, the walls
had large patches of dampness and long vertical cracks. Decorative plaster work was hidden due to multiple coats of lime wash. Stone columns were painted with thick coats of synthetic paints without obliterating the details. The original glass pains were either missing or broken. With no precedence of restoration in Shahjhanabad or elsewhere in Delhi to fall back upon, restoration architects took nearly six years, 50 odd workmen and artistes working 24/7 under regular and personal supervision to achieve the desired result. “This was a big challenge for us. We decided not to damage anything and restore each and every part as it was. Architect Kapil Agarwal helped us preserve the old and create new spaces to make it a viable unit of homestay heritage,� says Vidyun.
NEW
OLD
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NEW
All conservation work followed basic principles such as minimum intervention in the historic fabric and respect historic evidences adopted in various international charters for the conservation of heritage sites and monuments. All new repair followed traditional methods of indenting, replacing damaged stone with new in same material with same carving and refitting undamaged stone in its original location. The goal behind renovating this haveli was to engage traditional ways of construction with modern knowledge. Protection of the potential archaeological deposit in the land was always a priority. At all times, drawings and photographs of archival quality were maintained. All the old furniture found before renovation have been carefully preserved and new ones designed keeping in mind the elegant, period style. Extra vegetation growing in the haveli was removed with necessary herbicides approved by the conservation architect. Says architect Kapil Agarwal, “Our first task
OLD was to hold the building to retain its original structure. To keep the originality, we sourced raw materials from various parts of the country. We hired specialist labourers from different states. For instance, the cast iron railings were replicated by artisans in Jaipur, the entrance wooden door was carved in Shekhawati, brass came from Moradabad and glasswork from Firozabad.” Getting the ratios right for the lime plaster was the second challenge. “We used the same composition. We buried the original lakhori bricks, small bricks which could be used easier for design moulding purposes, under layers and waterproofed them so that they would hold good for a good many years. Cleaning and polishing some of them, we recreated a dining hall,” adds Aggarwal.
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BE A MUGHAL AGAIN
THE
team retrofitted newly-created spaces like restaurants, a museum, shops and different types of rooms. The main structure was strengthened by epoxy grouting, FRP wrap addition and columns, while all the slabs were repaired and micro-concreting was done at places. For two years, the work centred only on strengthening foundations, putting up iron scaffoldings and chipping away layers of paint. Doing up the interiors took four years. Now the original 60 rooms have been repurposed into 13 grand rooms to sell a boutique Mughal experience. Each guest room on the first floor is named after a Chandni Chowk bazaar, be it Kinari Bazaar, Meena Bazaar, Dariba Kalan and so on. The second floor rooms are named after gates, Kashmiri, Turkmani, Ajmeri and more. “We have translated our understanding of old Delhi architecture and not something that looks like a Rajasthani haveli. Delhi’s grammar is minimalistic,” says Agarwal. Each floor has a distinct character, winding staircases and hidden tahkhanas or secret rooms. The third floor-cum-terrace area is the major highlight feature, sweeping across a panorama of the majestic Red Fort, Jama Masjid and other landmark locations like Sis Ganj Gurudwara and Shankaracharya/Jain Mandir. A huge jharoka on the third floor conceals a corridor and is embellished with laser-cut stone patterns. This is an amalgamation of Rajasthani and Jain flourishes in a largely functional space. Imagine the rooms of yore, richly furnished with imported Persian carpets, silk curtains, chandeliers and mirrors. The halls, vaunted and arched with high ceilings and beautiful paintings. Then there was the courtyard with stone sitouts, elegant perches, fountains and pavilions. During your stay at Dharmapura Haveli, you not only share space and time with history, you become a part of history yourself.
LAKHORI While the restaurant offers classics like galouti kebabs and chicken tikkas, its top draws are mutton korma and kofta dogala which is the most seamless blend of tomato and cashew gravy. Sign off with beetroot and date kheer.
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L I V I N G H E R I TA G E
Karnavati’s
A den for culture vultures, the pol house in Ahmedabad called the French Haveli inspires and influences artists. By NAYAN DAVE
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ONE
cannot think of the old town of Ahmedabad without its unique community system called the pol. Or the traditional havelis or mansions, the legacy of a rich mercantile community which moulded and built this city, encoding its DNA. So it is a bit of a surprise when you see the French Haveli in the middle of a town square. Particularly when it takes you back to the time when caravans passed through clusters and rows of houses joined by labyrinthine streets, which in turn veined out to sub-lanes called khadki and squares called chowks. It was the talk of the town in the days when Ahmedabad was known as Karnavati. The French Haveli is Gujarati soul with French expertise. In other words, it is a restored wonder, an art that the French specialise in when it comes to authenticity and discretion. And it is a homestay under Gujarat Tourism, which means the nomenclature is aimed at drawing the Western
traveller. It is the result of 48-year-old real-estate developer Rajiv Patel’s passion to convert the 150year-old structure into a living heritage. He and his friends founded an organisation, City Heritage Centre (CHC), which has restored 15 heritage properties situated in pols of old Ahmedabad, prevented them from damage and land sharks, and
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made them worthwhile. “It doesn’t end with restoration. We have to draw up economic sustainability plans for their revitalised heritage,” he says. Supported by a group of like-minded entrepreneurs, he got in French architects and experts. “The French Haveli commemorates the first of its kind Indo-French joint effort to revitalise the old city. The French architects gave lots of inputs to restore the dilapidated mansion without disturbing its heritage value or its basic structure.” With the adaptive reuse of this house, Patel skillfully converted this into a boutique homestay. The interventions have been very sensitively done by adding five new bathrooms, reviving the old “tanka” (water tank) for water storage and ensuring it is pumped up to the bathrooms. The central court opens to a sky which can be covered with a retractable roof in the monsoon. The interiors are a subtle mix of contemporary and tradition.
Patel believes that the most exciting place and soul of the haveli is its courtyard, which gets optimum air and light. It is dotted with jhulas (traditional Gujarati style swings) where guests can relax and lounge. Keeping with the boutique homestay concept, the architects have maintained the privacy of guests through a series of rooms around the courtyard which is a central community space. This one has a chabutaro (bird feeder found in most pols in old Ahmedabad) and a century-old heritage Jain temple. Each room at the French Haveli has been given typical Gujarati names — chabutaro, malo (nest), ordo (room), agaashi (terrace) and mahajan (great man) suit room. Chabutaro and malo are single occupancy rooms, while ordo and agaashi are double occupancy rooms. The suites are called mahajan meaning “a great man.” “The history of Ahmedabad shows all the
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mahajan (big businessmen) communities to be philanthropic in nature. The Mahajan Suite gives the luxury of a private terrace with a gazebo, a private sit-out and a large king-size bed. The large bathroom has a dressing area fitted with Indian marble and traditional furniture. Guests have an option of adding an extra bed to this suite room,” says Patel. But the most charming aspect of the Mahajan suite is that it opens into a small cosy library and has access to the roof courtesy the old stairwells. While the haveli has its individual charisma, its food is to die for. Every guest gets a complimentary traditional breakfast with vegetables and ingredients sourced from nearby markets situated on the historic Manek Chowk.
WHEN TO VISIT Occupancy at the French Haveli is full from December to February end, the peak tourist season in Gujarat. But on the day of Uttarayan — the festival of kites — the French Haveli and many such old structures in pols are rented out to kite enthusiasts at premium rates. The two day package — on Uttarayan and the following day (VasiUttarayan) — for only terrace use are `1,00,000 and `50,000. “The atmosphere during the two days becomes electrifying in old Ahmedabad with colourful kites dotting the skyline. Staying in the French Haveli during the period is a real treat as you feel the festivities of Uttarayan with typical cuisine — undhiyu, jalebi, lilava ni kavhori, puri, chikki and much more,” says Hemant Bhavsar, an NRI based in Baltimore, Maryland in USA, who visits Ahmedabad during Uttarayan every year.
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LIFE CALL
Lost in Amazon
“IT
was a roller coaster ride which lasted for 20 minutes. All I could do was to keep my head above water. When I finally arrived on the shore, I had a moment of complete exhilaration that I had survived. A few seconds later came the first feeling of disaster and despair. Even then, I thought it would only be a few hours until I get connected with the group again. The toughest moment was after a few days, when I realised that I was
completely alone,� shares Yossi Ghinsberg recalling an incident where he fell down a waterfall. Yossi is an Israeli backpacker, who got lost in the Amazon jungle for around three weeks in the year 1981. He survived near drowning, venomous snakes, starvation and extreme pain. Now, he has gone back to the rainforest, not only to conquer his demons but to restore and revive its pristine worth. He runs eco-tours in the Amazon and has emerged as its biggest brand ambassador.
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The deadly forests of Amazon are known to engulf its hapless victims. YOSSI GHINSBERG, now a green activist, shares his tales of survival in the mighty jungle with ANKITA JAIN
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Yossi, who was 22-year-old back then fresh from his military service in the Israeli navy, explains why he chose this trip. “I wanted to be like the heroes of the books I read. I wasn’t interested in danger from the adrenaline aspect; I was more interested in the romance of it all.” “It happened almost like a novel. The start of the story was when I met fellow traveller Marcus on a trip over a lake. Then there was Karl, a larger than life Austrian. I believe he picked me because of my naiveté. He was experienced in jungle travel and told me about this great adventure we could have through the rainforest to discover a hidden tribe,” he adds. Eventually, there were four of them. Karl, Marcus, Yossi and an American called Kevin. They formed a group. Four different nationalities, four distinct cultures and four different personalities. Surely, they were set for a clash. Yossi recalls, “The environment was harsh. There was tension, the food was basic — we shot and ate monkeys, raw
eggs, among other things. At first, I was cursing myself for my stupidity and wanted to go back, but then I adjusted.” However, the disagreements led to the group breaking up. What started as a great adventure soon turned into an incredible survival story when the men agreed to separate. Ghinsberg and Kevin decided to leave Marcus — who had developed trench foot — with Karl and attempt to find their way out of the jungle on a rickety balsa raft. Everything was going as planned until Yossi went careening down a rushing waterfall and the two men lost each other. “We built a raft to travel down the river. It was dangerous. Disaster struck when we lost control of the raft as it neared a huge waterfall. Kevin somehow scrambled to shore but I was thrown over the waterfall,” says he. Being left alone wasn’t the only challenge, he also survived a late-night encounter with a jaguar by improvising a flame thrower — he set light to an insect-repellent spray. He lived on raw eggs
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and once attacked a snake for snatching a fruit from a tree. “I discovered my own power and I didn’t want to give it up. The desire to survive was all I needed and the rest is miraculous. At one point, I didn’t even want to be rescued any more. It was intoxicating.” But his optimism did not last. “During the last week of my trip, there was a terrible flood. I was almost drowned, and then on two occasions nearly sunk in a bog. It was the toughest week because I was physically drained. I didn’t eat anything for five days continuously. I was just skin and bone left. There was no food left to scavenge and I couldn’t walk because my feet weren’t in the condition. At one point, I shook a tree full of fire ants on my head just to have some pain to distract me from my aching feet so that I could continue to walk.” “To see my rescue as a coincidence is very difficult. Kevin had found his way back to safety and he came with some locals on a boat to find me. They had given up hope but could not find anywhere to turn the boat around. They were forced upstream to land the boat. In the whole of Amazon, the place they landed happened to be where I was lying unconscious,” he adds. The other two — Marcus and Karl — were never found. Today Yossi’s adventure has inspired many through his book Jungle and also a film based on the same due next year starring Daniel Radcliffe will be premiered at the Sundance Film
Festival. “People say to me, ‘If I was there, I would have died.’ I thought that myself before this but when it actually happens, you don’t have a choice but to rise to the challenge,” says Yossi. In 1992, he returned to the Amazon and made it his home. Fully engaged in the preservation of the Amazon basin and the empowerment of its indigenous residents, he conducted informative workshops on their intellectual properties. Together with an interdisciplinary team of scientists, he established ‘Ethnobios’ a biodiversity prospecting organisation. With the Takana tribe of the Tuichi Valley he initiated ‘The Chalalan Project’, a model eco-resort, fully owned and managed by local forest dwellers. “The place gives me immense happiness. And I came up with this idea, first to provide the locals with bread and butter and secondly to promote tourism. I wanted to do something for the people who saved my life,” he smiles.
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LEGACY HUNT
epic The
makers
Ram advances with his brother Lakshman and the monkey army for an assault on Lanka
Author SUMEDHA VERMA OJHA talks about her love for ancient India and the need to make the younger generation aware about mythology. By ANKITA JAIN
MANY
versions of the Ramayana, the story of Ram, have been written over time. The original story, told by sage Valmiki in Sanskrit, has been recast in numerous forms and languages. While many of those versions have been lost, one of them — the Mewar Ramayana — not only the finest surviving illustrated manuscript of the Ramayana but also
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Dasharath tells Ram that he will make him the king with Vashishtha, Lakshman and ministers in attendance
one of the most beautiful manuscripts in the world, was digitised two years back. And now it has been penned down by author Sumedha Verma Ojha along with JP Losty who curated the paintings and helped with the foreward. Dating back to the 17th century, the manuscript contains over 400 paintings and was commissioned by Rana Jagat Singh of Mewar in 1649 and produced in his court studio in Udaipur. It was eventually completed during the reign of his successor, Raj Singh in 1653. Out of these 400 paintings, 370 have been digitised and around 125 of them have been published in the book. Clad like she always is in a silk sari, Sumedha personified understated elegance. She talked about resigning from the Indian Revenue Service to pen down her passion for ancient India. “Ancient Indian writing is rooted to my childhood. I started reading Ramayana and Mahabharata at an early age. I was fascinated with the Sanskrit literature, and the influence of the past can be vividly seen in all my work,” she says. The beauty of Mewar Ramayana lies in its intricacy, style, size — it is small, detailed and exquisite. One can literally see every episode of the Ram-Sita story on the canvas. She explains, “The
original manuscript represents the pinnacle of Jagat Singh’s patronage of painting and is the grandest project ever undertaken by his court studio. The text that formed part of the manuscript was copied in the Nagari script by a Jain scribe, Mahatma Hirananda. Several accomplished artists of that era contributed their talent to the making of the manuscript, visible in the intricate paintings of Gods, battles and landscapes. Over 800 pages of text in Sanskrit, copied by a single scribe, complete the work.” She adds, “This book has abridged text translated in English accompanied by paintings.” The graphics are part of the Rajput school of miniature Krishna bringing the parijata from Indra’s heaven
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Ram and his companions retreat into the wilderness of the Dandaka forest
paintings. “He did the artistic part and I did the text part. We gelled really well and it came out beautifully,” smiles Sumedha talking about JP Losty, who took one and a half year curating the paintings for the book. The Ramayana is divided into seven kandas, starting from the Bala kanda which talks about Ram as a child. The book takes its readers from all seven divisions illustrated with the help of paintings. Describing one of the paintings from the seventh division, Uttara kanda, she tells us, “As Ram and the procession reach the banks of the river Sarayu, Brahma and the gods appear to witness Ram’s ascent and light the sky with an effulgent glow. Accompanied by chants of Hail Vishnu, Ram enters the waters and ascends to heaven. He is accompanied by Sugriva, his brothers, monkeys and bears. They willingly sacrifice their lives in order to ascend to heaven with him. The entire populace of Ayodhya witnesses the heavenly event, some plunging into the waters in order to attain Earliest Gita-Govinda; awakening Kumbhakarna
moksha (release from rebirth). They are shown ascending to the celestial realm with Ram.” Throwing light on the digitised version of Mewar Ramayana paintings, Sumedha informs, “The paintings have been posted online by the British Library. The difference between that collection and this book is that we went some extra mile to get undisclosed paintings illustrating the Aranya kanda. There are 11 extra paintings which we fetched from the Oriental Research Institute, Rajasthan.” Talking about the lack of interest among the next generation for Indian mythology, she says, “We really need to introduce mythology to the young of the country as creatively as we can. During our days, it used to make for good bed time stories narrated by our grandmothers. But that old world charm has passed; no one has the time to tell stories now. Considering this, I believe, illustrated epics will sure break the ice.”
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S TA R G A Z E
Style statement Check out what these celebs wore and where
Cate Blanchett wearing Gucci for the IWC Gala, cuffing her left sleeve with a single watch.
Tom Cruise wearing Isaia suit while promoting Jack Reacher 2.
While in New York, Victoria Beckham stepped out in a mint green velvet skirt.
Aishwarya Bachchan at Filmfare glamour and style awards. Miranda Kerr attends the Louis Vuitton show as part of the Paris Fashion Week.
Chrissy Teigen stunned in this black number from Michael Kors.
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COMEBACK
From
brickbats to
bouquets
Chennai Airport gives an apt riposte after a minor hiccup
THE
public image of Chennai Airport was at its lowest ebb, with jokes passing around from the incident of glass falling, false ceiling collapse and bad upkeep of terminals. There were many complaints which added salt to the injury to the infrastructural deficiencies. It was indeed a testing time for the Airports Authority of India (AAI) where working out a revival strategy became a
challenge. On one side passenger facilities at the airport were to be improved and on the other hostile media had to be tackled. The negative reportage, especially by the local newspapers, was very damaging. With a view to dispel fears from the minds of public, two press conferences were convened, largely attended by the media fraternity where each correspondent covering the airport was
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briefed individually. The editors of the local newspapers were requested to verify the news with the official spokesperson, Airport Director, before the publication of any story. For ease of communication with public and media, a Twitter account was also created mentioning coordinates of the Airport Director. And the continuous dialogue and constant emphasis on reporting facts rescued
the image and brought down the adverse reportage considerably. Efforts were taken to inform the media and general public that there is a difference between falling and breaking of glass and the reasons thereof. Also people were made aware about how breaking of glass on a massive structural glazing façade is a common phenomenon world over. AAI referred to industry experts’ opinion on the
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matter, where it was confirmed that on an average, eight out of 1,000 glasses break during the initial period of installation and stabilise within a year or two. Also people were told that shattering of a glass is unlikely to induce any major injury to passengers due to its tempering properties. Even if it breaks, it will be fragmented into crystals with little or no chance of injuring anyone. AAI made it clear that it was not to justify the breakage of glass but to give a glimpse of the reasons behind such incidents in glass buildings all over the world. AAI made a passionate appeal that sensationalism of trivial issues, coloured opinion, unverified reporting will only earn a bad name to the historic city, still fondly known as the good old Madras, in many countries. But constructive criticism and support has always kept AAI motivated enough to continue to work with full dedication. The above measures started bearing
fruits and there was palpable reduction in the publication of unwanted news about Chennai airport. Once the issue of wrong reportage was over, AAI decided to take up the second part of the strategy towards image building of Chennai airport. For this, methods were devised to tackle the housekeeping where separate housekeeping contracts for ancillary buildings and allied areas were awarded. AAI realised that it needs roundthe-clock supervision on the contractual housekeeping staff for further improvement and it was decided to deploy ex-servicemen to supervise them. It led to the improvement and visible results were seen and appreciated by all. Game changer The Global Investors’ Meet organised by Tamil Nadu government came as a blessing in disguise at the time where even the state government was sceptical about AAI. Not having faith on
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the competency of local AAI authorities, the state government wanted a higher level representation from CHQ to attend the meeting. This provocation forced AAI to introspect as to what went wrong and why it couldn’t redeem its name to the past glory. Accordingly, a few initiatives were taken: Beautification work such as sculpture, art, paintings, horticulture. Façade improvements through ACP cladding of HVAC outlets in check-in areas at Terminal 2 and 4. Cleaning of glass panels from inside and outside of both NDTC (T1) and NITC (T4). Existing international arrival expanded by merging it with closed portion of old domestic arrival of domestic terminal. The above measures certainly changed the face of Chennai Airport. The Global Investors’ Meet of Tamil Nadu Government was a great success and the Tamil Nadu Government heaped
praise on AAI for its excellent support to the event. The chief secretary in a thanks-giving party issued AAI with a commendation letter. Accolades won Chennai Airport was selected for Tamil Nadu Tourism Award 2015 in the category of Best Tourist Friendly Airport. The Indian Red Cross Society, Tamil Nadu Branch, bestowed AAI Cargo Wing with ‘Award of Red Cross Appreciation’ for the timely release of all air cargo consignments consisting of relief materials at a record time and at zero cost during Tamil Nadu floods. The situation changed drastically from a state of topsy-turvy chaos to an orderly demonstration. The Chennai Airport team came out in flying colours. It surely highlights the finer face of AAI and reiterates that it is second to none in hard work. Very often the success story does not reach out to people; hence the effort is documented so that it becomes an eyeopener to a few, if not many.
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GURUSPEAK
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THE
Sri Sri Ravi Shankar Spiritual Guru
philosophy of life is based on letting go. When we hold on to things, they become a reason for stress. If you allow the universe to work through you, life will be on another level of existence. Time poses challenges, it is for you to see how you can benefit from these challenges. As you are coming to the end of this year, think of all those challenges you had, and how they have contributed to your growth. Think of how you handled them, what mistakes you made while handling them, what lessons you inferred from those mistakes. This is the first step. Second, think of gifts that the past year has brought to your life, and how
LET
GO
Change is the phenomenon of the universe and if you do not let go, you will get stuck
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you are going to utilise these gifts for the betterment of life on the planet. Once in every three to four months take some time off and go deeper into meditation, into silence. Then you will see that whatever you want for yourself, it will come to you. Bring smiles on the faces of people and gain some merit. Then you have a right to demand something for yourself. Next, you need to be ready to learn new lessons in life. Keep the cheer, the joy and smile throughout the journey of life. Everybody is on a conveyor belt and the belt is moving. Some are crying, some are laughing, but the conveyor belt is moving. You are connected to the universal spirit. Suppose you have an argument with someone, don’t take too long for the smile to come back. Love means letting go, not trying to hold. You do your best, leave the rest to nature. Everything belongs to the Divine already. But when you think that something belongs to you, that’s where the problem starts. Let go.
Learn this art. When you are holding onto something so tight, that is when you should relax. Relaxation is surrender, nothing else. If something is bothering you in your head, giving up that botheration is surrender. Whatever bothers you or troubles you, offer that as aahuti (the act of making prayerful offerings to the sacred fire) to the Divine. That which you cannot handle by yourself, that which has become a burden for you, just put it down and let go! That is what is meant by surrender. Your body, even your mind belongs to the universe. Don’t ever think it belongs to you. Let go of the past and move happily into the future. You should know that when you let go, the best will come to you. Don’t be afraid. Take life in its totality. Some pleasant, some unpleasant experiences — all these things will happen and then they will go away. Knowing this, move ahead and see the positive changes taking place. — www.artofliving.org
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FITNESS
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Bring it Bharat Thakur is a yoga guru and founder of Artistic Yoga
THE
under control Hypertension is a growing problem in India affecting 27 per cent of the population. Here’s how yoga can help sufferers
heart pumps blood to all parts of the body. The force with which blood hits the walls of blood vessels is called blood pressure. It is given as two readings — systolic and diastolic. The ideal pressure is 80mmHg/120 mmHg (millimeters of mercury). When the heart contracts or pumps blood, pressure reaches its peak level and this is the systolic reading. When the heart relaxes and refills with blood, pressure is at its lowest and this is the diastolic reading. A reading of 120/80 is regarded as normal. Hypertension or high blood pressure is when your blood pressure reading crosses 140/90 and doesn’t normalise. Left unchecked, this carries the
risk of heart damage, strokes, cardiac and kidney problems. The usual treatment is life-long medication and recommended lifestyle changes. Yoga can play an important role in reducing hypertension. Asanas stabilise the autonomic nervous system, regulating blood pressure. Certain supine asanas relax the sensory organs and the sympathetic, parasympathetic and nervous systems. Recent studies have also shown that both yoga nidra and pranayama techniques influence the cardiovascular system. Controlled and conscious breathing reduces the amount of the stress hormone cortisol, lowering the heart rate and blood pressure.
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ANULOMA VILOMA q Keep the left hand on your left knee. q Bend forefinger and middle finger of your right hand. q Place thumb between eyebrows, press ring finger on right nostril. q Breathe in through left nostril. q Reverse positions. Place ring finger between eyebrows, press left nostril with thumb. Exhale through right nostril. q Now inhale through right nostril to a count of five. q Reverse position of fingers as in step 3, exhale through right nostril to count of five. q Repeat 12 times. BENEFITS:
UJJAIYI
q Increases
q Close your eyes and relax the body. q Focus on your breath, letting it become rhythmic
the supply of oxygen to the blood and purifies it by expelling toxins. q Lowers stress and anxiety. q Revitalises mind and body.
and relaxed. q Let your breathing become slower. q Contract the glottis in the throat so that a soft
snoring sound is produced. q Concentrate, listen to the sound of your
breathing through the throat. q Let each breath become slower, longer.
BENEFITS: q Balances the entire cardiovascular system. q Soothes the nervous system, calms and relaxes
the mind.
YOGA NIDRA q Lie flat on your back with your legs slightly apart. q Arms should be relaxed by your sides, a little away from the body with your palms facing up. q Close your eyes, breathe in, feeling the stomach rise and the chest expand. q Breathe out, letting the chest and stomach fall and relaxe the body. q There are 16 vital points in the body that can relax you if you concentrate on them. BENEFITS: q Relaxes the entire body and mind, reducing
physical and mental tension. q Helps reduce blood pressure.
SHEETALI PRANAYAMA q Roll your tongue as shown. q Slowly inhale to a count of five through the passage formed by the tongue. q Exhale through the nostrils to a count of 10. q Let your breathing become slower and longer. q Repeat 15 times. BENEFITS: q Cools the body by lowering the temperature. q Reduces anxiety and stress by prompting the release of anti-stress hormones.
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BLITHESPIRIT
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THERE
Magandeep Singh Sommelier
is a very popular term that does the rounds in the wine circles called the “holiday effect.” It states that a wine tried at a rustic winery tucked away in a tiny hamlet doesn’t taste quite the same once it has been packed into our suitcases and lugged back home, however many miles away that may be. Many people blame the transport itself, citing reasons like boutique wines don’t have the same preservatives as deployed by big commercial wineries and hence the journey is more daunting for them. Others feel that the onslaught of travel upsets any wine and maybe after suitable rest, the wines will return to form. Nobody,
Bring home
memories
Looking at a wine bottle brought from a vacation recreates the joy of that fleeting moment, conjuring up a tactile recall. Which is why vacation wines never taste as good once back home
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however, alludes to the real reason why the wine doesn’t taste as good. Back where it came from, the wine had the natural beauty of the surroundings to create the “wow” effect. From the winemaker’s little children scampering about in the winery to the local cheese that he served up in the lovely regional delicacies…it’s all too postcard perfect a setting. So what is one to do? Only buy wines from the local city grocer so as to avoid being charmed beyond our means? Or to visit such lovely corners of the world and try and remain stoic through the tasting in order to not let our sense be overwhelmed? There is no correct answer. All I can suggest is since the wine resides in our minds, we should jog that muscle to bring back some of the joys past. And some prudence while tasting the wines before buying always helps. Here then, to sign off, are a few tips to help you decide which wines to buy: AVOID THE CHEESE: Cheese coats the palate, making every wine taste decent, if not great.
Avoid that and you taste the wine for what it truly is. TASTE BEFORE DRINKING: If you must buy wine, try them all before you sit down to enjoy them. Compare notes later and see if the ones you liked earlier are the same you enjoyed with lunch. In case of discrepancy, revisit the tasting exercise. BUY EVENS: Idea is to not buy just one bottle; buy at least two, or maybe six. That way when you are trying them, you get a chance to play around with each bottle differently and see which delivers maximum pleasure. BUY TO DRINK/STORE: Know what you are buying for — to put away for the future or to drink once back. Whatever be the objective, adhere to it. BUY A MIX: When in doubt, don’t buy just one wine. Divide the load among the various styles and you will reduce the risk of coming home with all plonkers.
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HOTWHEELS
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Kushan Mitra Auto & tech expert
A Swedish
dream
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The Volvo S90 is not a German luxury sedan. And that is a good thing
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AS
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the weather turns across northern India, so does the light. Instead of the harsh sunlight of the past six months, the early morning light in Western Rajasthan is soft and ideal for photography. And with a car like the Volvo S90, the perfect spot would be Mehrangarh Fort — the superstar backdrop of hundreds of advertisements, Bollywood and even Hollywood movies. The problem is that the road up to Mehrangarh Fort, one of India’s top tourist attractions, is best described as pathetic. Narrow and potholed and drivers who don’t care about the concept of rules. Oddly though, a great place to try out the S90, particularly the utterly fabulous ride comfort of this car. This is a supremely comfortable car, possibly the most comfortable of the luxury barges on the market today. Even when you sit at the rear, with
the front seats pushed all the way back, it oddly feels even more comfortable. That is because of the air suspension this car rides on smothers potholes. So you still feel the worst of them as well as badly constructed speed breakers, but as I sat at the back of the S90 I really wondered if I wanted to drive this car, not only because it was early morning and I was still sleepy but because I really enjoyed being in the back. The Volvo S90, which will be launched in a 190 horsepower D4 variant, comes with most of the same features you get in the Volvo XC90, the nicest of which is the tablet controller in the central console. This controller is actually a very good reason to want to sit in the front seats. Volvo has always had lovely central console units, the “waterfall” design in the last generation of Volvo’s was a beautiful design but was crowded. The new tablet-style control does away with the most “hard” controls and everything is delightfully easy to control, albeit slightly distracting if you are driving
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the car. But the S90 will also come with a heads-up display as standard. In fact, it will come with everything as standard because at launch it will come at only one trim level. So the nappa leather and the wood inserts won’t cost extra. What you see is what you get. The S90 also integrates Apple Music and Android Auto into their operating system. You still use the Volvo system to control the fabulous 19speaker Bowers&Wilkins audio system with some tremendous sound settings, including the Gothenburg Music Hall. In fact, you could drive around all day in this car listening to music. And because Volvo has stated that all their engines going forward will be small four-cylinder 2-litre units on the larger cars with smaller cars getting a 1.5-litre three-cylinder unit, you do this with great economy as well. So does this car drive well? One way to answer that would be to say that car does feel a bit “floaty” when you turn into corners. It definitely is not the sharpest handling car in its class, but one supposes that the Volvo is not meant to be driven like one is in a rally special stage. This is not a racing yacht. But on the highways outside Jodhpur, the S90 did have one surprise in store. It can go plenty fast. The roads connecting this western outpost with the outside are mostly straight and that suited this
car just fine, and on empty stretches without traffic, you could really push the S90. It lacks paddle-shift gear controls though, unlike some competing cars. And the S90 looks good as well, both inside and outside. Sometimes it is the small things, like the air-conditioning controls which have the feel of the crown on a watch. Or the little recess on the boot and the large rear light cluster and the big wheels. So you would not feel out of place when you pull up to a meeting in this car and got out of the back. You would arrive in a good-looking vehicle in oodles of comfort. Volvo is the first manufacturer in India to have radar-enabled control. This allows for laneassistance as well as park-assist, features that unfortunately I was not able to try out on the relatively empty spaces around Jodhpur but will sure in Delhi. There will be some more radarassisted features launched later when Volvo introduces a 235-horsepower D5 version of the car sometime in late-2017. But as of now, this version of the S90, which is expected to cost around `55 lakh, will definitely give the Germans a run for their money. Indeed, it is possibly the best buy as of today. Although next year things will change dramatically with the new 5-series and E-Class on their way.
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MANE MANTRA BEACH CALLING
YOUR
tropical getaway beckons not only a great moisture-enriching, frizz-fighting leave-in cream but a great dry shampoo. Use products enriched with SPF properties that shield your hair against the harsh sun. Contrary to popular belief, products in your hair don’t cause damage but rather safeguard it against any. Trend watch: A top knot, which is great as it keeps your hair looking trendy yet out of face while you indulge in the surf and the sun. Fish tail braids or a simple but slick high ponytail could work as well.
The roll-ups, sides, or bangs, ADHUNA BHABANI, Founder and Creative Director, BBLUNT, tells you how to prep your locks for your next vacation
hair Holiday
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SAFARI ADVENTURE
DON’T
forget to pack in a great dry shampoo and anti-frizz leave-in cream along with a hat and scarf into your safari satchel. Hair prepped with a climate control shampoo is rest assured for sun-protection whereas a dry shampoo helps get rid of grease and grime. Trend watch: A chic low bun or high sleek ponytail are great safari looks. I don’t recommend letting the wind into your hair for this one.
TREK TRAIL
WHILST
on a trek into the hills, it’s best keeping your mind on the task at hand, eye on the view and hair out of your face! A dry shampoo ought to be part of your kit with the mighty trekking hours, fewer pit stops with limited supply of water. Climate control shampoo can help infuse moisture to your hair as the weather gets colder at higher altitudes. This protects the hair whilst enhancing the natural movement of hair. Trend watch: Braids, buns, ponytails work the best.
THE WHITE VACATION
FOR
those opting to trade in the heat of the city for snow, beware that the cold can cause hair to become flat, dull and dry. Intense moisture shampoo and conditioner enriched with jojoba, vitamin E and wheat germ oil works great along with an occasional deep conditioning ritual. Do that, and you will find the solution to winter breakage, dry hair, split ends, as well as that annoying static. Trend watch: Braids, buns or braided buns, which retain their shape while letting the texture of your hair be, still come through. You could even pull through the cold with a chic, low maintenance, well moisturised bob or lob. Or tease your way to a glam bouffant or faux-bob that is picture perfect.
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CRUISE CHIC
Soak up! Laze your way in beach-boho resort wear
Malini Ramani
Antar-Agni Armani Anupama Dayal
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Malini Ramani
Miss Bennett London
Antar-Agni
Sanchita
Sanchita Miu Miu
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NUMBERGAME
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COUNT YOUR FATE
NUMBER 1 (Ruled by Sun, people born on the 1st, 10th, 19th and 28th) Sometimes competition does intimidate you but try bringing out your best. Necessity is the mother of most inventions. You should use your creativity in most things you do, including decorating your home with fixtures and furniture; however unconventional, you can be arty and have a good taste.
NUMBER 4 (Ruled by Uranus, people born on the 4th, 13th, 22nd and 31st) Coming up with innovative ideas is not something new to you, your dreamy nature brims with gifts of imagination. If only your reveries could turn into a reality. With a little more practicality, there is so much more you can accomplish. Tomorrow is away but today is happening.
NUMBER 7 (Ruled by Neptune, people born on the 7th, 16th and 25th) You may be overly concerned about some personal issue but it could only be your state of mind. Your ruler, Jupiter could give you a weak nervous constitution, making you more anxious than what the situation demands. Prevention is cheaper than cure and you ought to know that.
NUMBER 2 (Ruled by Moon, people born on the 2nd, 11th, 20th and 29th) Those planning a break for a long time, will finally get one. Giving time to yourself and enjoying the solidarity could bring you immense pleasure. You have been working really hard lately, it’s time you let your hair down. Don’t worry, money will not act as much of a hassle for such escapades.
NUMBER 5 (Ruled by Mercury, people born on the 5th, 14th and 23rd) Making unpopular decisions could translate into change which is something you look forward to. Work could be hectic as usual but you also need to express your feelings to the loved ones. On the social circuit, you could once again be in demand. So gear up for all the good things coming up.
NUMBER 8 (Ruled by Saturn, people born on the 8th, 17th and 26th) You possess ingenuity coupled with intuition and vision. It’s time to assess your creative potential. But don’t forget the importance of hard work which is equally important. You can expect a progressive month ahead which could build up the momentum and take you forward by some miles.
NUMBER 3 (Ruled by Jupiter, people born on the 3rd, 12th, 21st and 30th)
NUMBER 6 (Ruled by Venus, people born on the 6th, 15th and 24th) Romantic liaisons have always put you in a spot. If only you could get less emotional, you could enjoy more peace. Being possessive cannot bind your partner. So just relax and understand your limitations. Wait for the wave you are latching on to. Things will take time to settle down.
NUMBER 9 (Ruled by Mars, people born on the 9th, 18th and 27th) When it comes to holding responsible positions, you do take up the task without much murmur. You know that you can meet the deadlines. Your credibility does get a boost in such circumstances. Remember success is a blend of good fortune and hard work. So up your ante a bit.
Sharing credit with colleagues will enhance your opportunities since team spirit is so vital when it comes to collective success. Those with business interests abroad could have a shot in the arm. In return, do not allow your love life to take a beating, avoid annoying your partner and leaving him/her out.
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W AT E R T O U R I S M
Thrill Jalmahotsav returns with its second edition this December in Madhya Pradesh
trip
month-long adventure tourism festival of central India is about to unfold in December at Hanuwantiya district of Khandwa. A serene destination by the banks of Indirasagar dam, Hanuwantiya offers an unmatched scope for fresh experiences. The adventure seekers will have a wide range of water, land and air activities to choose from. These include parasailing, para motoring, hot air ballooning, wind surfing, island camping, jet-skiing, wall climbing, Burma bridge, night camping and plenty more. This quiet, secluded place will transform into a tented city to host the guests from India and abroad. Guests can enjoy the cultural extravaganza everyday, after sunset including the New Year eve party. You can also walk through and explore the craft and food bazaar and enjoy cycle rides. There are two kinds of packages to choose from — tent city and island night camping and you can take your pick from either the deluxe or premium versions. — For details log onto www.jalmahotsav.com
THE
GETTING THERE Nearest Railhead: Khandwa Nearest Airport: Indore Tourist Helpline: 18002337777 www.mptourism.com
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SIGNOFF
By RINKU GHOSH
K
BY THE LAKE ulhad coffee is a real travel souvenir. A shot of espresso layered over with frothy, whipped cream and chocolate dust spiralled on top, almost threatening to spill over the brim. Rising like the overfed waters of Udaipur’s Fatehsagar lake, tempting you to wipe off the foam. Off a ridged clay glass, rather than a mug. The earthy aroma does the trick in this slightly sweetened concotion. And even tea lovers like me are compelled to make an exceptional switch and get hooked. The latte and cappucino-loving Westerner, too, is literally licking the cream of the kulhad and instagramming it. Udaipur’s Fatehsagar lake is in many ways emblematic of the smart city that this heritage hub is soon to become. A global tourist hotspot, Udaipur is reinventing itself in mainstream ways. It is emerging to be the next big educational hub after Kota, land prices are soaring on the decadelong assumption of it becoming a pharmaceutical and corporate median and new tourist experiences are being developed in and around it. Little wonder then that the promenade and lakefront at Fatehsagar has also undergone a sea change. Authorities have upped the riviera feel with jogging tracks and cobbled pathways along its periphery, done up several viewing decks depending on the various angles that best show off the sunrise and sunset, the corona almost melting into its waters, set up food colonnades and encouraged various adventure activities like heli-skiing, parasailing, canoeing and boating. Fatehsagar Lake may not be the deep blue swirl of the very privileged and exclusive Pichola but has an expansive heart, accommodating all kinds of tourists, alllowing them the democratic choice of just sitting along its banks and staring into the vast openness of the Aravalli hills and ancient forts that speckle the horizon. The food colonnade has emerged as a happy hangout of disparate souls, with an unheard of global fusion that’s amping up its street food value. For example, there’s something called the Ghamandi Pizza (snooty pizza). Turns out the only thing snooty about it is that it is not snooty about grammar at all and is topped with anything and everything under the sun in varied combinations. It uses generous portions of Morjorola (the local take on Mozarella) cheese, butter, vegetables, spices and tosses up everything
PHOTO: ANAND NAGORI
from potato mash to paneer crispies. There’s also the Jain pizza devoid of tamasik ingredients like onion and garlic and working its yumminess with generous dollops of butter and ghee. Yes, there’s Jaini pasta too and the only varieties available are red and white. There’s chowmein, more soya twisters and the good old Maggi: Maggi with spices, Maggi with simple native vegetables, Maggi with exotic vegetables, Maggi with cheese, Maggi with butter... the list goes on. Oh yes, you can have toasts throughout the day. I find the most calorie-laden one, Cheese Butter Jam Sandwich, so gooey and explosive you don’t mind the oddity of the mix. Should you not like the English twist, you can always go for a plain aloo mutter stuffed variant. Also do not forget the local ice-cream parlours churning up some delicious fruit ice-creams, shakes and lassis with the same toss-in as you like philosophy. You would wonder why the city that begins its day with kachauri and jalebi (every sweetmeat shop serves at least ten versions of kachauri with rabri and jalebi between 7 and 10 am) would so aggressively indigenise the world platter. Turns out it has more to do with the domestic rather than the Western tourist. One of the shop owners tells me how Udaipur is fast becoming a city of young aspirants chasing various courses and how the older brigade has finally mustered the courage to go beyond familiar staples on a night out. Finally, there’s the assumption that all these anyway make for an exciting evening snack, dinner being had at home, not earlier than ten at night. There’s an odd sense of comfort at Fatehsagar. You go with the flow.
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