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Editor-in-Chief CHANDAN MITRA EDITORIAL BOARD Vice-Chairman & Joint Managing Director Amit Goel Chief Executive Officer Abhishek Saxena 09818600128 EDITORIAL Editor-in-Charge Rinku Ghosh Assistant Editor Saimi Sattar Feature Writers Priyanka Joshi & Palak Sharma Chief Designer Anand Singh Rawat Production Manager Syed Nawab Raza Staff Photographer Pankaj Kumar SALES & MARKETING Vice President Jetender Rawat 9810404096 General Manager Kumar Gurudutta Jha Deputy General Manager Neeru Arora Senior Managers Sofiqul Islam & Madhukar Saxena Managers Bharat Singh Sajwan & Prabhakar Pathak Media Coordinator Anil Kumar 09871379898 GOVERNMENT & PSU General Manager Tapan Ghosh Assistant General Manager Neeta Rai MUMBAI OFFICE General Manager Devendra Adhikari KOLKATA OFFICE Vice President Suzanna Roy General Manager (Circulation) Rajeev Gautam Printed and published by Chandan Mitra for and on behalf of CMYK Printech Ltd, printed at JK Offset Graphics (P) Ltd, B-278, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, New Delhi-110020 and published at 2nd floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi 110002. Editor: Chandan Mitra. Entire Contents Copyright (C) 2006 CMYK Printech Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in any language in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Requests for permission should be directed to CMYK Printech Ltd. Opinions carried in Exotica are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CMYK Printech Ltd. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the return of unsolicited material or for material lost or damaged in transit. All correspondence should be addressed to CMYK Printech Ltd; 2nd Floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Phone: 23718296/40754136 Fax: 23755275 Email: exoticapioneer2016@gmail.com
FROM THE EDITOR
BLAZING A TRAIN travel till the late 60s was an elaborate affair; it entailed almost relocating home for some time and consequent carriage of heavy baggage. My father was a frequent traveller, but being a stickler for comfort, always insisted on a first class coupe. Business took him to an obscure but picturesque town called Barbil on the Orissa-Bihar (Jharkhand) border, tucked away in the iron mining heartland of the Chhota Nagpur plateau. A distance of barely 400 km from Kolkata took 18 hours to cover and involved a layover at Tatanagar of over four hours in the dead of the night. I remember that very distinctly for the Gua bogey that was attached to Rourkela Express from Howrah would get disconnected and taken to a siding around 2 am. After four hours, it was carted back to the platform and connected to the Tata-Gua Passenger that took nearly seven hours to traverse barely 120 km. Those layover hours at Jamshedpur were a nightmare as, bereft of an attached engine, there was no power connection. In summer, it was just not possible to sleep without a fan overhead. Reaching Barbil from Hooghly involved first taking a local train to Howrah and then switching over to the South-Eastern Railway section. Yet, mom insisted on carrying home food for dinner. Invariably my favourites — luchi (puri), alubhaja (finger chips) and kosha mangsho (dry meat curry) — would be packed in tiffin carriers. First class travel had its own charm, something that’s been hopelessly lost in the sanitised environs of air-conditioned coaches. Those days, no corridors ran alongside compartments; there would be doors on both sides. Each cabin had its own toilet, wardrobe and washbasin. The seat/sleeper was wide and soft, a ladder was provided in each cabin to help ascend the bunk, my favoured resting place. The coal dust spewed by soot-black engines was an occasional nuisance but the thrill of staring out into the countryside that seemed to whiz past even at the train’s meagre speed of 40-odd km per hour, the sights and sounds of bustling railway stations and their assortment of peddlers, made up for the minor discomforts. Mid-summer travel though was problematic. I remember a two-day journey to Mussoorie by the Doon Express from Howrah some time in June. The attendant suggested we order a block of ice to cool the cabin blazing from the heat of North India to which we were unused. A crate arrived at the next station, carried in by two coolies (it was that heavy). A lot of sawdust was sprinkled on the ice block ostensibly to delay its melting. But melt it naturally and inevitably did causing a right royal watery mess. The next time we travelled on vacation to a hill station in summer, my father spent double to book AC first class. When I first went to Darjeeling, the journey was even more fascinating. The Farakka Barrage was still under construction and passengers had to board an overcrowded ferry to cross the Ganga that is at its widest at this point, just before bifurcating into the Bhagirathi (Hooghly) and Padma that sweeps into Bangladesh. It was quite a sprint travellers were required to make across the sandy banks of the river to keep up with coolies who ran with their luggage as if they were fleeing enemy gunfire. The scene was repeated across the river where another rake of the Darjeeling Mail waited to take us to New Jalpaiguri. I still remember the shorshe iilish (hilsa fish in mustard sauce) that I ate there over a quarter century ago. Travel by air too had its moments of thrill, my early flights having been made in Fokkers, Dakotas and Caravelles — all discontinued now. But pitted against train journeys, planes don’t compare.
TRAIN
[CHANDAN MITRA] Editor-in-Chief
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I N S I D E NOVEMBER 2017 VOLUME 12 NO 1
Little black book [p8] Patralekha Mishra Paul: A quick peek into her style file Q&A [p15] The 70 sparklers: Shobhaa De & Jaya Jaitley Globe trotter [p28] Scandic chic: Copenhagen Traditional wealth[p36] The true worth: Ayurveda Globe trotter [p40] Love is in the air: Slovenia
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Head south [p50] Go green go Peru Off track [p58] Hail ye berry: Ladakh Relationship take[p70] May December romance: Maheep Singh Wild card [p72] COVER: CASTLE AT BLED, SLOVENIA Tiger travels PHOTO COURTESY: INYOURPOCKET.COM Food fad [p76] Black currents: Cooking with charcoal Sri Sri Ravi Shankar [p80] India exotic [p102] GURUSPEAK: Celebrate the journey Khichdi: Three countries Magandeep Singh [p84] in one BLITHE SPIRIT: Whisky ice and everything nice Bharat Thakur [p88] FITNESS: Surya namaskar Kushan Mitra [p90] [p83] HOTWHEELS: Sometimes speed is all you need Sanjay Jumaani [p105] NUMBER GAME: Count your fate
CONTRIBUTORS
TOTAL NUMBER OF PAGES 108 INCLUDING COVER
OUR
PARTNER
HOTELS
Send us your feedback at exoticapioneer2016@gmail.com; Facebook: www.facebook.com/Exotica-394686670715776
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FAVOURITE HAUNTS OF STYLISH PEOPLE
I have only one watch, the Apple watch. I always swear by Dior.
My chosen brand for eyewear is Armani.
PATRALEKHA MISHRA PAUL is an actor, who made her debut with director Hansal Mehta’s film CityLights, alongside Rajkummar Rao
I love reading books and the current one is the Autobiography of a Yogi, which tells the story of Paramhansa Yoganand’s life in his own words. My mom’s shawls are the prized possession in my wardrobe.
Louis Vuitton is my choice. It is classic chic and can be worn on any occasion — from a film screening to the red carpet. Give me a salad any day — healthy and indulgent at the same time
In India it has to be Ladakh. Time just stops there and you feel your insignificance amid the immensity of creation.
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TRAVEL NEWS
BOLLYWOOD DIWALI IN NZ
DIWALI
is not only celebrated in India but in many parts of the world and New Zealand left no stone unturned to make it a global tourist spectacle. Visitors were greeted with Bollywood dance moves, traditional music, authentic curries and a chance to enjoy and experience traditional and contemporary Indian culture. The New Zealand Police performed to Bollywood songs Munni Badnaam Hui and Chalti Hai Kya 9 se 12. They also had a dance battle with an established group, Bollywood Dreams, for which they underwent rigorous practice for two months. Almost 15,000 people attended the annual Indian festival of lights at Christchurch.
NEW CONCEPT HOTEL IN SINGAPORE
THE
first international luxury hotel brand at The Quayside, Robertson Quay, is set to impress visitors with its residential-inspired concept in the city’s most vibrant neighbourhood. Set amid a dynamic, sophisticated neighbourhood along the Singapore River, known for its dining options and arthouses, the luxury hotel has been carefully curated by worldclass designers, architects and culinary purveyors. Located just a few minutes from the CBD, the hotel maintains a stylish but laid back, relaxed feel in the leafy, upscale neighbourhood of Robertson Quay. It offers 225 luxurious studios and suites, including an expansive penthouse, which has unparalleled views of both the Singapore River and the vibrant city via floor-to-ceiling windows. Designed by an award-winning architect firm, SCDA, the light-filled room interiors have been designed to magnify the familiar comforts of home. Guests can sink into soft, plush, custom-made furnishings and enjoy bespoke amenities such as a specially designed in-room cocktail kit by local bar gurus Proof & Co. Club guests will enjoy access to tailored and personalised services, including a dedicated team to personalise their stay, private in-room or lounge check-in and impressive club rooms.
U d e D e s h k a A a m N a a gr i k
Government of India Announces
Map Not to Scale, only for depiction/ representation purposes
THE AWARD OF REGIONAL CONNECTIVITY FLIGHTS after the first round of bidding under
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PSYCHOLOGY
OF LUXURY
AN
people to indulge in a luxury experience, almost 60 per cent of guests were driven by rarity, bespoke and uniqueness; over 22 per cent claimed social influence from family, peers and friends; 10 per cent saw it as a mark of social success and nine per cent enjoyed the recognition and attention that came from these experiences. The survey results highlighted a variety of different service requirements with 28.9 per cent of guests wanting attentive service, 25.9 per cent preferring service that is readily available, 22 per cent desiring bespoke, 18.3 per cent enjoying subtle interaction and 4.7 per cent being more inclined to prefer very little service interaction until they expressly ask for it.
unforgettable and bespoke luxury experience, with an emphasis on exceptional service, is the key to positive emotional wellbeing, according to a new study conducted by InterContinental Hotels & Resorts. The survey was conducted across seven cities within Asia, Middle East and Africa (AMEA), including urban hotspots like Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Bangkok, Singapore, Chennai and Sydney. Gathering insights from close to 200 affluent and discerning world travellers and guests aged between 30 and 50 years, findings revealed that happiness is rooted in the satisfaction of good service, dedication to quality and bespoke personalisation. Regarding the influences that motivate
KERALA TOURISM BECOMES ‘RESPONSIBLE’
KERALA
Chief Minister Pinarayi Vijayan recently launched the world’s first Responsible Tourism Mission to elevate state tourism through people-friendly, local community-friendly and environment-friendly initiatives, ensuring rural development, employment opportunities and women empowerment. Dr Venu V, IAS, principal secretary, Kerala Tourism, said that the concept of responsible tourism took off in Kumarakom and is now a worldrenowned concept and a point of discussion across the globe. “It’s definitely a proud moment for us to be the pioneer in setting up this concept so effectively. Within a span of nine years, Kumarakom gained a profit of `16 crore. The reason behind this growth is the involvement by the communities around as a group. The aim of the Responsible Tourism Mission is to create 1.5 lakh jobs in the future,” he said. The Chief Minister said, “Waste management should be a prime consideration in any development programme. The tourist spots and
places around the state should be kept clean at all times without asking for additional costs. It should be a practice by itself. The tourism department should make enough arrangements to accommodate the number of tourists coming to the state. One needs to appreciate Responsible Tourism completely for it is a source of support for the local communities. Our land is encompassed by serenity and greenery. That is why it’s called God’s Own Country. Hence, more attention given to tourism will only prove to be beneficial for the development of the state.”
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A FIND CALLED OKINAWA
CRYSTAL
blue seas, white sand beaches, colourful marine life and the Shuri Castle, home of the King of Ryukyu (a World Heritage Site), are what comprise the Okinawa Prefecture. This place consists of 160 islands of various sizes scattered across a vast ocean. The temperature in winter is about the same as that of springtime in Tokyo and Osaka, making it warm and comfortable
throughout the year. You can enjoy beautiful flowers in any season. Taiwan cherries, which bloom earlier in Okinawa than anywhere else in Japan, red Deigo flowers, colourful bougainvilleas, pure white Easter lilies and beautiful yellow tabebuias make for a rich sensory experience. Another highlight is the presence of many rare species of plants and animals, such as the Iriomote wildcats (a protected species) on Iriomote-jima Island.
OKINAWA CHURAUMI AQUARIUM: The Okinawa Commemorative National Government Park is home to facilities, displaying natural environment, history and culture. In one corner of the park is an aquarium counted as one of the largest in the world. The largest tank is 8.2 metres high and 22.5 metres wide, containing a diversity of sea creatures, including whale sharks and reef mantra rays that are some of the largest in the world!
TAKETOMI ISLAND AND MIYAKO ISLAND: Located in the west of the main island of Okinawa, Taketomi, which is also close to Ishigaki Island, preserves one of Okinawa’s ancient villages. Visitors are charmed by the red-roofed houses, roads covered with white sand and the leisurely pace of buffalo carts that circle the island. Miyako Island, only 45 minutes by plane from the main island, boasts an ocean that is said to be particularity beautiful even in Okinawa, known for its white sandy beaches and coral reef shallows. It is the perfect spot for diving and snorkelling.
ISHIGAKI ISLAND AND IRIOMOTE ISLAND: The Yaeyama Archipelago, located to the west of the main island of Okinawa, is known for its characteristic natural beauty. Ishigaki Island is famous for its picturesque scenery and white sandy beaches. At Iriomote Island, you can see mangrove swamps and rare animals like the Irionmote mountain cat. Whether it’s diving, travelling in glass-bottomed boats, kayaking or trekking, there is no shortage of opportunities to engage with the natural environment. OKINAWA RESORTS: The beach offers global brand hotels and activities that include shopping in the capital city of Naha, which has a population of over 300,000, and also marine leisure activities.
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THE
SPARKLERS Two women, both of whom have charted unmapped territory and stood out in the process. One holds court in the world of celebrities while the other has been through the rough and tumble of political life and held her own in the supposed man’s world. Having walked on the planet for seven decades and counting, SHOBHAA DE and JAYA JAITLEY are two exceptional women who refuse to conform to norms
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Q&A
Seventy? You certainly don’t look it. I hear that a lot. I really can’t take credit for it. There is nothing that I do which is exceptional. I lead a pretty disciplined life but looking young has more to do with genes, inheriting basic bone structure and reasonably good skin. That sees you through. The secret is only one and when I say this to people, they do not believe it. It is Pond’s cold cream which I have used my entire life. It’s true and I have also mentioned it in my book that if at any point, I don’t have access to Pond’s cold cream, I get distraught. It’s always worked for me. I started working pretty early
at 16-17. So I got disciplined and learnt how to look after myself and my skin the old-fashioned way and continue to do that. I have never entered a gym and have never had a personal trainer. I have never gone under the knife and I never will!
Author, columnist and former model SHOBHAA DE is celebrating a milestone in her life with honesty and gusto, says SAIMI SATTAR
What is your take on ageism? There is ageism across the world, more so than in India. There is rampant stereotyping in the West. When you turn 30 and do not have a guy by your side, or are not married or not had a child, you are considered over the hill. By the time you are 40, you press all the panic buttons and you are made
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to feel unattractive as if your sell-by date is finished. It has started happening a lot in India as well. The most accomplished, talented in every which way, women are pressured into feeling less than themselves because of the stereotyping that society imposes. It is a defiant act of mine to say I am 70. I am not saying that I want to flaunt it but it is a biological fact and I am perfectly comfortable with it. I have never tried to disguise my age or conceal it at any level. It is a transformative age. Why is ageism more pronounced in case of women than men? Men continue to actively produce sperms till their 80s. Their virility and fathering capacity are the reasons why society perceives them in a way where ageism doesn’t affect them as much. Women can have children at 50 with a lot of intervention but most women do not want to take that option. So you are already made to feel redundant. You’ve celebrated each of your last three decades with a book. What are the different challenges and experiences women face at different times? At 50, you are menopausal and you are addressing different issues which you may not have control over because you have no control over your hormones. At 60, you’ve grown-up teenage children or see others with grown-up teenage children. A lot of ladies succumb to the
AT 70, YOU ARE FREE TO BE WHO YOU ARE. IT LIBERATES YOU. YOU COME TO TERMS WITH SO MUCH IN LIFE. IF IT IS A LIVE WELL-LIVED, THEN HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE LESS REGRETS AND MORE POSITIVES. THAT SHOWS IN YOUR PERSONALITY AND IN YOUR PRODUCTIVITY AND ATTITUDE THAT IS CONSTRUCTIVE FOR YOURSELF AND PEOPLE IN YOUR LIFE
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pressure of hanging on to the youthful, gym-toned and fabulous image. At 60, you still want to be hot. At 70 you’re liberated, you’ve grown wings and have flown. You are free to be who you are. It releases you. You come to terms with so much in life. If it is a life well-lived, then hopefully you have less regrets and more positives. That shows in your personality and in your productivity and attitude that is constructive for yourself and people in your life. Also, you have a little more money at that stage in your life than you did at 30 or 40, so then you have more options. If you keep yourself reasonably free, you can travel a lot. I would say that I exult in it as I am at that point where I want to take off. What is Seventy about? I wrote one book at 60 and another at 50. It is a reflective book and not one where I am giving gyan. It is introspective but it is also talking about the social changes that I have seen during my lifetime. I call myself a child of the Republic as I turn 70 in January, the same year as the Indian Republic. A lot of change, some of it cataclysmic and some of it wonderful, has taken place in India during these years. And I have seen the change and have been intrinsically a part of it at multiple levels. If you’re sensitive to your environment as well as to political and social change, you would want to reflect on it and use yourself as a fulcrum or a
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Sharmila Tagore is 70+ and gorgeous. Simi Garewal is fabulous, beautiful, striking and still working hard. In politics, Sonia Gandhi is gorgeous at 70 and has a great personality. These are the ones that come to mind.
prism or a filter for that change. However, the book is essentially about me. I have said it in a gleeful way that I am 70 and I have enjoyed these aspects of life a lot. Maybe, through my experiences which I have shared truthfully, I can help others because there are universal problems that we deal with as I have not gone through anything that is very unique. Should turning 70 be the pursuit of Vanaprastha? It should never be the pursuit of Vanaprastha. Never, never, never. I mean I am not cut out for that. I respect someone who suddenly turns into a monk but this woman is not cut out for it. Keeping alive and overcoming physical frailty. How easy and negotiable as you age? It is a reality. I am not stupid to say that 70 is the new 50. It certainly is not and don’t let anyone tell you that. It is a bogus boast. Seventy is 70. So you are aware of your creaky knees, aware of your eyesight which is not what it used to be, you are careful while walking on cobblestones or walking on stilettos on Marine Drive — which you would have done without a thought earlier.
I HAVE SAID IT IN A GLEEFUL WAY THAT I AM 70 AND I HAVE ENJOYED THESE ASPECTS OF LIFE A LOT. MAYBE, THROUGH MY EXPERIENCES WHICH I HAVE SHARED TRUTHFULLY, I CAN HELP OTHERS BECAUSE THERE ARE UNIVERSAL PROBLEMS THAT WE DEAL WITH. I HAVE NOT GONE THROUGH ANYTHING THAT IS VERY UNIQUE
Seventy and dishy. Who are the good looking people in politics, sports and entertainment in contemporary India? Hema Malini is almost the same age as I am. She is a few months younger and has just turned 69.
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Ageism: Women vs men in cinema. The 50+ heroes are still romancing... Cinema is a visual and very cruel medium. Unlike say a singer or vocalist, for even a female dancer it is very tough unless you are Bala Saraswati who can transport you by her mudras. Anything that requires physical exertion or visual representation necessarily works against women. Amitabh Bachchan is called the “Lion in Winter.” I do not see too many lionesses in winter. Sexual empowerment. Your take on contemporary dialogues of #Me Too and avenging angels calling out sexual predators? I am not okay with it. I know it is important for a lot of women to feel that they are not the only ones. But I don’t see anything terribly significant from hashtags. Life is not that simple that by owning up to something that had happened in the past, it resolves itself. Maybe, it does for some people but I wouldn’t go along with it. I find hashtag activism too shallow and futile. It is a “me too” reaction for me, too, because you do not want to be left out. You are in essence following a herd. As far as the lists go, it is a grey area. By all means, if you are
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serious about it, go the whole hog but if you think that 40 years down the line someone is going to be ashamed — an uncle who might have touched you inappropriately in your father’s home — I do not see it working towards any change at all. Apart from shaming anyone, it won’t be a deterrent. It will carry on. The only thing that works if at all is if there are few cases like Roman Polanski, who was accused of sexual misdemeanour, and the charges have affected his life at every level of his career. He does not have his passport which means he cannot travel. He is a fugitive. Otherwise these lists and hashtags are meaningless.
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I FIND IT FUNNY WHEN YOUNG ACTORS OR MODELS SUM UP THEIR JOURNEYS SO CASUALLY. IT HASN'T BEGUN AS YET — GIVE YOURSELF SOME TIME. YOU ARE JUST TAKING BABY STEPS INTO A NEW PROFESSION, INTO A NEW WORLD. THERE IS SOMETHING GRACEFUL TO BE SAID ABOUT HITTING PAUSE, NO MATTER WHAT AGE. YOU SHOULD REFLECT BEFORE YOU SHOOT OFF YOUR MOUTH ABOUT ‘MERI JOURNEY AISI THI WAISI THI’
What’s the next pitstop? I have done a lot of stuff and I hope to do much more. I am not done yet. It has become a bit of a cliche where everyone is talking about the journey so far. I find it funny when young actors or models sum up their career paths so casually. It hasn’t begun as yet — give yourself some time. You’re just taking baby steps into a new profession, into a new world. It could be Bollywood or whatever. There is something graceful to be said about hitting pause, no matter what age. You should reflect before you shoot off your mouth about “meri journey aisi thi waisi thi.” Just enjoy the journey and not speak about it and let the journey speak for itself.
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Q&A
ICON FOR SMALL PEOPLE SHE
sits in her Hauz Khas office, surrounded by things which can be called a reflection of her life. There are books on textiles, stick it notes which act as reminders, visiting cards, a handloom sari draped over a chair and a lot of knick knacks. Dressed in an aubergine handloom sari with an orange border, Jaya Jaitley answers phone calls which interrupt the conversation with grace that has personified her life. The phone calls are congratulatory messages on the release of her book, Life Among The Scorpions, and also ones where she’s trying to help the family of Shabir Ali Beigh, a kani shawl weaver from Kashmir who had passed away in Pune, where he’d gone to attend a bazaar organised by Dastkar Haat Samiti, the not-for-profit organisation which she founded 26 years back. “He’s one of the pillars of the
While JAYA JAITLEY’S book, Life Among the Scorpions, talks of her turbulent years in politics, it is the struggle of craftspersons that has been the primary focus of her life, says SAIMI SATTAR
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Samiti and I wish I could’ve gone but I’ve other pressing matters. So, the family and some acquaintances are flying to Pune,” says Jaitley. Identification with the cause of the weavers and craftspersons as well as being an active politician are the two very public faces of Jaitley. And she has not shied away from speaking about either. With great candour in the book as well as in person, she talks about the Tehelka expose, her tenure as the Samata Party president, and her brushes with the “socialists” who can no longer be identified with the tag. There is, of course, another aspect of her life that has been a huge influence and at the same time put her in harm’s way, more often than she cared for — her association with George Fernandes or rather George Sa’ab as she calls him. The Tehelka expose, which put Jaitley in the spotlight as it was alleged that she had been
PHOTO: PANKAJ KUMAR
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accepting kickbacks on behalf of the then Defence Minister, George Fernandes, is still under investigation. “I fought and fought and fought. I still go to court and when people talk about the many years of harassment, I tell them it has become as normal as brushing my teeth,” says Jaitley. She feels that the so-called expose was more of an attempt to undermine the power of Fernandes via her. “Would all this have happened if I was a man colleague of his? To say that I am an evil defence dealer is ridiculous. People and the investigation agencies should see my life, my bank account, home and what I own. But nobody has done it in these 16 years because the details would be pathetic there,” says Jaitley. She has not forgotten the day the scandal broke. She was in the middle of designing a hand-made wedding card for her daughter Aditi who was getting married to cricketer Ajay Jadeja. “I was told that I was involved in dirty deals and a big bomb was thrown at me. I had to clog up and couldn’t suddenly unclog and say that it is my daughter’s wedding,” says the 75-year-old former Samata Party President. On her daughter’s important day, she didn’t feel happy or sad unlike most mothers as she had shut down all her feelings. From the very beginning, the association of Jaitley, who was divorced from diplomat Ashok Jaitley, with Fernandes was not looked upon kindly. “The world
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JAITLEY HAS NOT FORGOTTEN THE DAY THE TEHELKA SCANDAL BROKE. SHE WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF DESIGNING A HAND-MADE WEDDING CARD FOR HER DAUGHTER ADITI WHO WAS GETTING MARRIED TO CRICKETER AJAY JADEJA. SHE WAS TOLD THAT SHE WAS INVOLVED IN DIRTY DEALS AND A BIG BOMB WAS THROWN AT HER
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perceived our relationship in a way where I was called every single name in the book. But whenever I told him that somebody is saying this or that, he always told me, ‘I don’t think what other people think’ and effectively shut me down. He didn’t let me mourn and groan. He told me constantly that politics is not a bed of roses and no one will make your bed for you,” she says. Another thing that the veteran leader told her was that her staying was totally voluntary. “If you can’t stick it out, you are free to leave,” he told her. Jaitley came from an intellectual background where her mother was the daughter of Rajah of Kollengode and her father was a diplomat. She immensely admired Fernandes, who was willing to give his life for any issue that he was fighting for. “This man dropped college and went off to seminary, was self-taught in eight languages and was willing to fight for the underdog. How could people like me not admire that? He was very magnetic and I am very spontaneous. I like working with a person who inspires me at all times,” she says as she pauses to gulp down some water. She feels that he was such an inspiration for people around him that they were ready to do anything for him. “I keep reiterating that it’s not because I’m a woman that I’m fida over him, men are too,” she says. But one thing that really acted like a glue was that not for a minute did Fernandes show a
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moment of disrespect to her as a woman. “More than anyone else, my friends or family, he showed most respect to me for my intelligence which was important to me. If I wrote an article, even on something that didn’t interest him, he would read it carefully without letting his attention wander and pat me on the back and say ‘excellent’. That would be a huge certificate,” she says. She recalls an interesting episode with Fernandes who got his first paid job as a proof reader with the Times of India. “Once George Sa’ab, Farooq Abdullah, his son, my son and I went to Karim’s, Jama Masjid. The menu had so many hilarious typos and mistakes. He took out his pen and started correcting them. So I told him to sign and he wrote ‘George Fernandes, proof reader’.” But while Fernandes might have served as an inspiration to her, Jaitley backed him all the way. When in-fighting hit the Samata
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THIS MAN (FERNANDES) DROPPED COLLEGE AND WENT OFF TO SEMINARY, WAS SELF-TAUGHT IN EIGHT LANGUAGES AND WAS WILLING TO FIGHT FOR THE UNDERDOG. HOW COULD PEOPLE LIKE ME NOT ADMIRE THAT? HE WAS VERY MAGNETIC AND I AM VERY SPONTANEOUS. HE WAS SUCH AN INSPIRATION FOR PEOPLE AROUND HIM THAT THEY WERE READY TO DO ANYTHING FOR HIM. IT’S NOT BECAUSE I’M A WOMAN THAT I’M FIDA OVER HIM, MEN ARE TOO
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Party while Fernandes as the Defence Minister was in China in 2003, Jaitley was quick to step in, write a note to settle ruffled feathers. “As a political advisor, a colleague and wanting to protect the party’s and his interest, I had to take such steps. I am not a steno, I used my brain to draft that letter,” she says. Despite this, she took her role to be a supportive and secondary one. “I never had an ambitious goal for myself even in my crafts. I look at the future of my craftspersons. If they’ve benefited, I’ve succeeded,” she says. The cause of the weavers, the Dastkari Haat Samiti and Dilli Haat, are some of the things that Jaitley is really passionate about. Even as a Samata Party leader, where contrary to popular belief she never contested elections, she worked hard to get as many members in the Parliament as possible so that she could feed them questions about handloom
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workers. “But I didn’t find that happening. They were not interested in my voice or my issues maybe because it didn’t get them votes. All these things added to disappointments with the party,” she says. The Dastkari Haat Samiti founded by her has become selfsufficient. “The karigars maintain this place and give money from their membership to pay salaries for the staff as well as for the electricity and water charges of the office. I have no personal ambitions for material wealth. It isn’t a question that I want to become anything, I wanted to get something done,” she says. Jaitley feels the work of the Samiti would be accomplished once the karigars don’t need it and can be independent. The iconic Dilli Haat is another project that is close to Jaitley’s heart and she’s angry with the Delhi Tourism for almost killing the cause for which it was created. “I created it after six years of struggle and saw how successful it was for 10 years. The Delhi government is trying to make profits here to cover the losses everywhere. The newer stalls created by Delhi Tourism do not have facilities but are rented out for ` 50,000 which is five times the amount of the ones given out by the Central Government. They just want money to come in and don’t care if a smuggler or trader sets up shop rather than a genuine karigar. People sell things from Lajpat Nagar and Sadar Bazar and
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INDIAN VOTERS WANT DELIVERY AND TREAT A PRINCESS LIKE VASUNDHARA RAJE OR AN ACTIVIST LIKE MAMATA THE SAME WAY IF THEY PROMISE TO DELIVER. IT IS THE POWER STRUCTURE IN A PARTY THAT IS SKEWED. THE PUBLIC IS SECULAR, NON-SECTARIAN AND DEMOCRATIC, SO THEY ARE READY TO ACCEPT ANYTHING CREDIBLE. IT IS THE MEN IN THE POLITICAL PARTIES THAT WANT TO HOLD ON TO POWER
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keep moving their stalls around. I’ve sent photos, videos and list of names to the DC Handicrafts, Delhi Government and Textile Ministry to prove it but there’s no respite.” Since her book is about the “memoirs of a woman in Indian politics” the societal attitudes to women in power are reflected in it. “Women can go to Mars, they can be journalists, lawyers but politics is the ultimate power structure and that is why men try to be patronising and condescending,” she says. And Jaitley points out that this can be seen when men often ignore what a woman says in politics. “Either she doesn’t have to be heard or she can say what she wants and men will do what they want,” she says. However, Jaitley is known not to get loud, aggressive or adversarial and she realised that because “she was soft-spoken, people actually listened.” She recognises that the fault for this attitude doesn’t lie with the Indian public or voter who is not patriarchal. “They want delivery and treat a princess like Vasundhara Raje or an activist like Mamata the same way if they promise to deliver. It is the power structure in a party that is skewed this way. The public is secular, non-sectarian and democratic, so they are ready to accept anything credible. It is the men in the political parties that want to hold on to power,” she says. On the other hand, she believes that women need to follow the due process rather than
PHOTO: PANKAJ KUMAR
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arriving in the Parliament riding on the coat tails of 33 per cent reservation. “Women will have to earn their spurs and come through a political party where you go through hell and try to fix things and you hold your own because politics and governance are not easy. Being in opposition isn’t easy and being in power is worse. All the things you shouted about and wanted to happen in the opposition don’t because there are undermining and competing systems,” she says. Moreover even when women come to power, they are essentially playing a man’s game in a man’s world. “Women leaders unfortunately never made a difference to women. We are still stuck in the syndrome of having to take on the aggressive tendencies and the muscle and money power that men use. Mayawati uses caste, Mamata uses andolan, Indira Gandhi used her family and dynasty,” she says. However, she is all praise for the present government where prominent ministries like Defence and Ministry of External Affairs are headed by women. “These are huge and carry a lot of responsibility. Neither can be held by a namby pamby. You can’t be a man or a woman but a sharp political person who also knows
international ramifications, the subject or can grasp it quickly. BJP which considers external safety to be an important issue has handed over these to women, which speaks a lot for them,” she says. On demonetisation as well as GST too, she’s supportive of the government. “Six weeks after demonetisation, we held the Dilli Haat Bazar and we were worried about the absence of cash. But we did one crore more sale than the previous year and there were no complaints from karigars or customers.” But while the NDA gets her approval, she believes her former political co-travellers, the Socialists, are deeply flawed. “They have made themselves irrelevant because they have strayed the path in many ways. They fought corruption, they respected women and were secular. But the last word doesn’t not mean caring for one and ignoring other. You should love your country and civilisation. Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay wrote about women in Vedic times but now if you talk about Vedas, you are alleged to be furthering Hindutva,” she says. However, having quit active politics after resigning from Samata Party, she is concerned about “fighting for thousands of small things which are more important than a mega thing. Small people make the country. I’ve my heart and soul in the crafts sector,” she says, signing off.
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GLOBE TROTTER
SCANDIC CHIC
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Copenhagen from the top
Dig deeper into Copenhagen’s alternative neighbourhoods to uncover the new creative initiatives, with MALAVIKA BHATTACHARYA
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SCANDINAVIAN
design dominates the global conversation today, setting new precedents with its focus on minimalism and functionality. Denmark is one of the frontrunners in the design landscape, where everything from art, architecture and daily products reflect a simple, yet holistic aesthetic. Sustainability, congruence with the landscape, accessibility and inclusion are key features when it comes to Danish design. As visitors to Copenhagen, it can be difficult to uncover these aspects of the city if you don’t know where to look. Often, most tourists stick only to the main shopping street of Strøget. Lined as it is with some of the biggest brands, it’s easy to spend hours filling your bags, but venture beyond it and you’ll uncover a cool, alternative side to Copenhagen, full of indie designers, fun public spaces and trendy boutiques. Local entrepreneurs are bringing Copenhagen’s creative spirit to the forefront in the spaces of art, food and community. Dig deeper into the city’s alternative neighbourhoods to uncover the creative initiatives they’re working on. The twin areas of Nørrebro and Vesterbro are where you’ll find a clutch of independent designers, creative spaces and hip locals hanging out. Wander the picturesque streets on foot, or better yet, do like the locals do and grab a cycle. Among Copenhagen’s trendiest areas today, full of fashion-forward locals and young, cool, businesses, these areas were once run down and avoidable. Over the years, they’ve seen a considerable transformation. Uncover alternative Copenhagen with this guide. Cycling Copenhagen: To get a sense of the neighbourhood’s history, discover the coolest spots and really experience the city like a local, it’s a good idea to sign up for a cycling tour. Cycling Copenhagen, run by Christian Hougaard, does just that, and a team of affable local guides provides great insights and interesting nuggets about the city. For those who can’t cycle, or for children, the unique Copenhagen concept of the Christiania bike is the perfect alternative. These cargo bikes are a common sight on Copenhagen’s streets — a wooden box affixed to the front of the cycle, to easily wheel along kids, luggage, or passengers who can’t cycle.
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Absalon: A disused church turned into a community centre is perhaps the most innovative use of space. As soon as you step through the doors, all notions of Absalon being a place of worship fall away. Candy coloured walls, trendy lights, a TT table, long community tables where people are working and eating, a café and a big board pointing towards a bar. A large timetable on the wall lists out activities — yoga, art workshops, movie screenings, music and a whole lot more. Absalon is run as an inclusive, community space, welcoming people from all walks of life. They serve subsidised meals everyday, encourage communal eating so you interact with others, and organise activities for everyone. Sunlight streams in, and within the bright, colourful, space, I see all age groups, from toddlers to seniors, engaged in activity with a smile on their face. Anker: The heady smell of cocoa greets you before you spot the tiny doorway that leads down into Anker — a delightful space that makes and more importantly sells, hand-made, fair-trade chocolate. Using raw materials from around the world, chocolatier and young entrepreneur Mikkel Anker, crafts beautiful bits of goodness, using flavours such as black currants, dried berries and apricots. The little boxes make great gifts to take home, with authentic Copenhagen creations inside.
(Bottom) Mikkel Anker; (Left and inset) Cycle through hip Vesterbro’s busy main street Vesterbrogade offers offbeat shops, art galleries and bars (Martin Heiberg)
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Bars, restaurants, designers and galleries moved into what were formerly the meatpacking warehouses
Meatpacking district: Vesterbro’s trendiest area today, the Meatpacking district had less salubrious beginnings as a primarily industrial area and home to Copenhagen’s meat industry. Gradually, bars, restaurants, designers and galleries moved into the warehouses, redefining the mood in Vesterbro and today, the district embodies the term ‘‘industrial-chic.’’ The area is ideal for a cycle ride in the daytime, to get a look at the low-roofed brick buildings and explore the pop-up art galleries in the warehouses. Come back in the evening, when the area is buzzing with music and partygoers. Check out the grungy KB18 for live music. Beer-aficionados can head to Warpigs for a craft brew by Danish brewer Mikkeller. With a string of bars and clubs packed into the area, this
is where you should head for a late night out on the town. WeFood: To combat food waste and cater to lower-income groups, an NGO has set up a supermarket for food surplus and unspoilt edibles. Products are sold at up to half of their original cost. While supermarkets regularly throw out items that have met their ‘best before’ dates or that have damaged packaging, many of these products are still safe to consume, according to Danish law. Breads, fruits, preserves and other regular supermarket products line the shelves. Proceeds from sales go to the NGO behind We Food — DanChurchAid — to help fight food shortage in countries around the world.
Roskilde Festival is an event where all age groups congregate PHOTO: THOMAS HØYRUP CHRISTENSEN
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Hans Christian Anderson’s Grave at Assistens CemeteryPark: Denmark’s most famous literary champion, Hans Christian Anderson contributed endlessly to the imagination of children around the world with his fairy tales. The author lies buried at the Assistens Cemetery in Copenhagen, but the over 200-year old graveyard is a combined park and cultural centre. An expansive green lung in the midst of Nørrebro, towering trees line the
narrow avenues. Locals come with pets and their children to sprawl on the grass, teach their kids to cycle and enjoy the fresh, green space. Many of Denmark’s famous personalities lie buried here and the cultural centre is a repository of information on the history of the cemetery, apart from hosting theatre and other events. It’s worth it to take a detour through the lush space while in the area, for a break from the bustle of the streets.
Copenhagen has places reserved for prams and pushchairs making it child friendly
PHOTO: THOMAS ROUSING
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Jægersborggade: Assistens Cemetery Park opens out onto Jægersborggade — among Nørrebro’s trendiest streets, lined with cool cafés, trendy art galleries and design shops, boutiques, bars and a Michelin-star restaurant. Budget plenty of time for a stroll here — you’ll want to step in to each of the 40 establishments that line the stretch. Inge Vincents Ceramics — perhaps best captures the Danish design aesthetic. Stepping in to her studio-shop is akin to being in a modernist art museum. The pale wood shelves are lined with covetable ceramic pieces — bowls, vases, glasses, cups –– in all white and no two alike. Inge herself, dressed in white, takes us through her design process, as she explains how she handcrafts each piece. Further down, at CMYK KLD, posters and artworks are strewn across the space. The shop stocks cool artworks by Danish artists and the smaller prints are perfect to fit in your suitcase. Istid (which translates to Ice Age) looks much like a chemistry lab with swirls of smoke and interesting equipment. They’re known for their liquid nitrogen ice cream, made using organic ingredients. I walk past Relæ, the Michelin-star restaurant run by Noma alumnus Chef Christian Puglisi. Across it stands his other offering, Manfreds, known for its farm-fresh ingredients and natural wine. For a quick bite, step into the iconic Meyers Bakery, known around the city for the freshest bread and cake. Grab an outdoor table at the street corner at The Coffee Collective –– a local favourite coffee shop and roaster. After all the shopping, it’s a welcoming break to relax with a hot beverage and people-watch in one of Copenhagen’s trendiest districts.
PHOTO: THOMAS HØYRUP CHRISTENSEN
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(Above and left) Cycling is a popular way to discover the hotspots around the city. (Below) People prefer to cook with fresh ingredients
Superkilen: A short distance from Jægersborggade is Superkilen — an urban space and a lesson in public art. Designed by Danish architecture giant Bjarke Ingels Group, the urban park is divided into the Red Square and the Black Market. The park, situated on the fringes of Nørrebro, is Copenhagen’s most ethnically diverse neighbourhood, home to over 60 nationalities. The Red Square, covered entirely in shades of red carpet, has sporting equipment, swings, slides and interactive elements to bring the community together. In a hat tip to the neighbourhood’s background, the Red Square incorporates elements from each of the 60 nationalities into its design: a boxing ring from Thailand, a soundsystem from Jamaica, a climbing gym from India. People from around the world are enjoying the space, making the most of photo opportunities and enjoying an inclusive outdoor space in their neighbourhood. Adjoining the Red Square, the Black Market is a favourite with local photographers for its minimalistic yet creative design. White lines run on black asphalt, much like all our roads, but curve artfully around the benches and trees installed in the space. The Black Market is a meeting ground for locals. Fitted into the ground are tables with chessboards printed on them, a Moroccan fountain and artfully designed benches. Wiggly white lines run all over the undulating landscape, giving the impression that the square is more optical illusion than public park. It’s well worth it to take a detour from the regular sights of Copenhagen — Tivoli Gardens, the Little Mermaid and Nyhavn — to truly experience the Danish capital’s creative spirit and focus on community.
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T R A D I T I O N A L W E A LT H
TRUEWORTH
THE
accounts for 41 per cent of the `44,790 crore personal with its care market share. herbs, Sometimes an ayurvedic preparation may prove plants, tree and bark, natural extracts, medicinal to be expensive though. Dr P. Mohanan Warrier, benefits and ancient wisdom, has been the root of all chief medical officer and superintendent at Arya pharmacology. But as long as it came as liniments, Vaidya Sala, Kotakkal, and Ayurvedic Hospital oils or the rustic powder and granules, it was and Research Centre in Karkadooma, looked at as nothing more than a home Delhi, says, “Some of the products remedy. Now that the trappings of in ayurveda are costly because modern age have caught up of the kind of ingredients with the ancient science, it that are used or the is being packed in fancy Does process that is followed. bottles, going through Ayurveda by For instance proprietary norms and default have to be kumkumadi has gold industry standards dust, which effectively and being sold at tony expensive? Or is there more makes it expensive. malls at skyrocketing to the skyrocketing prices of Similarly some prices. This has given products need to be ayurveda uber premium products? kept in vats for three branding but the larger SAIMI SATTAR days before the oil is question is, should our finds out extracted from them. This botanical heritage, that has makes it inevitable that the been proven therapy for cost would go up.” He also points everybody, be priced so heavily for out that all his products are made in conspicuous consumption? Kotakkal, Kerala, where stringent quality checks Abhilash Ramesh, executive director, Kairali of the ingredients and also of the products are group, laughs and says, “There are two words which undertaken regularly. “Often two herbs look really jack up prices immediately — one is ‘organic’ and the similar and it is difficult to make out the difference. other is ‘sustainable’ — tags that work for our To make sure that we have the correct one, these are regenerative biowealth. Many companies claim that often put through a microscope and a series of tests.” the ingredients in their products satisfy both these Ayurvedic products line up the bulk of the shelves criteria and in turn justify the fact that they are more at khadi outlets. Manufactured by small units spread expensive.” The overarching appeal of these magic across the country, the products are easily available words is apparent from a survey by market research and priced nominally. Santosh Devi, an attendant at firm Nielsen which found that the natural segment
AYURVEDA,
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their Regal Building outlet, says, “Foreigners especially pick up many of the Ayurvedic products, which they say cost about five times the listed price in their own countries.” Shrinivas Meena, assistant director, Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan, Khadi and Village Industries Commission, points out that the prices are driven by the boutique nature of the product. “The products in khadi are made very often in small units in the villages. Despite that, the quality of the product is not compromised upon at all. Smart budgeting can keep the products affordable.” And to emphasise upon it, he is quick to say, “Why don’t you use the products and decide how good or bad they are?” Ramesh also gives an important pointer when he says, “Ayurveda, as we know it, has a fixed number and amount of ingredients as well as a specific technique to roll out a curative. If anything is altered or added and that is served as a justification for the increase in prices, it is not right for the simple reason that the particular product no longer qualifies as Ayurvedic. It has become something different now.” KVIC products are a rage now simply because they stick to honest pricing methods. And a synergy can be worked out for a greater good. For example, a low-cost ayurvedic medicine has been developed by the Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR) along with two other organisations for diabetes patients. The medicine named “BGR — 34” has been developed jointly by CSIR — NBRI (National Botanical Research Institute) Lucknow and CSIR — CIMAP (Central Institute of Medicinal & Aromatic Plants (Lucknow).
WHY IS AYURVEDA PRICEY Some of the products in ayurveda are costly because of the kind of ingredients that are used or the process that is followed. For instance kumkumadi has gold dust, which effectively makes it expensive. Similarly some products need to be kept in vats for three days before the oil is extracted from them. This makes it inevitable that the cost would go up — Dr P Mohanan Warrier, chief medical officer and superintendent at Arya Vaidya Sala, Kotakkal, and Ayurvedic hospital and research centre in Karkadooma, Delhi
A premium is attached to ayurvedic products for multiple reasons such as the quality of ingredients and methods used but at other times it can also be purely because of marketing reasons. While the difference due to financial reasons is limited, some brands charge a higher premium to create a perception of exclusivity in the mind of customers — Vishal Bhandari, founder, SoulTree “The quality of the ingredients differs depending on the time that they are harvested over. The Ayurvedic texts specify the time that they are supposed to be harvested, when the quality is the best. Naturally the efficacy increases. Moreover, in current times, if the product is being grown in an area where there is a lot of pollution, it would alter the quality of the product. Amla grown in Himalayan foothills would naturally be better than the one being grown in the centre of a city where there are pollutants.” These refinements and attention to detail are often exploited to tweak with the brand value of the end product — Dr Sudha Ashokan, Sudha’s Ayurveda Kendra,
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Private players in the now sunshine business of ayurveda admit that price is part of a sales pitch and brand positioning. Vishal Bhandari, founder, SoulTree, says, “A premium is attached to ayurvedic products for multiple reasons such as the quality of ingredients and methods used but at other times it can also be purely because of marketing reasons. While the difference due to financial reasons is limited, some brands charge a higher premium to create a perception of exclusivity in the mind of customers.” Dr Sudha Ashokan, who runs Sudha’s Ayurveda Kendra in Safdarjang Enclave, is categorical that while the prices can fluctuate within a certain bandwidth, nothing can justify huge surges. Says she, “The quality of the ingredients differs depending on the time that they are harvested over. The Ayurvedic texts specify the time that they are supposed to be harvested, when the quality is the best. Naturally the efficacy increases. Moreover, in current times, if the product is being grown in an area where there is a lot of pollution, it would alter the quality of the product. Amla grown in Himalayan
WHY IT SHOULD NOT BE PROHIBITIVE? Ayurveda, as we know it, has a fixed number and amount of ingredients as well as a specific technique to roll out a curative. If anything is altered or added and that is served as a justification for the increase in prices, it is not right for the simple reason that the particular product no longer qualifies as Ayurvedic. It has become something different now — Abhilash Ramesh, executive director, Kairali group Our products might not be attractive or not smell great but that is because we follow the method that has been prescribed and do not look to beautify or repackage them — Dr P Mohanan Warrier, chief medical officer and superintendent at Arya Vaidya Sala, Kotakkal, and Ayurvedic hospital and research centre in Karkadooma, Delhi
Quality-conscious foreigners especially pick up many of the Ayurvedic products from KVIC, which they say cost about five times the listed price in their own countries — Santosh Devi, an attendant, Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan, Regal Building outlet
foothills would naturally be better than the one being grown in the centre of a city where there are pollutants.” These refinements and attention to detail are often exploited to tweak with the brand value of the end product. Bhandari says that the processes differ because of the ingredients as well as the methods used. He points out, “If premium quality ingredients and authentic methods are used, then the price can be charged. All ingredients that we use in our products are 100 per cent natural and sourced from organic farms in Uttarakhand. We also follow traditional ayurvedic processes that are timeconsuming and laborious.” The transport costs further add to the prices. As Ramesh explains, “We source ingredients from all over the country and transporting the best variety from their geographical catchment areas obviously adds to the cost. Of course, there is also the way a product is marketed and packaged as well as the places it is sold from — the prices immediately go up substantially.” Dr Warrier doesn’t buy the argument. “Our products might not be attractive or not smell great but that is because we follow the method that has been prescribed and do not look to beautify them.” However, Bhandari justifies the cost of logistics. “Most of the local ayurvedic companies do not have the same manufacturing and marketing cost as those of large MNCs. Therefore, they can afford to sell the products at a lower price. However, in some cases, this also creates a quality concern as local ayurvedic brands may not be able to maintain quality standards during manufacturing on scale.” The Modi government’s setting up of the Ministry of AYUSH and the renewed interest in alternative medicines and products has no doubt given a boost to this industry. The Indian herbal industry is estimated at `4,205 crore with the export of Ayurvedic medicines and herbal products worth `440 crore, according to a study by Exim Bank report. The industry has the potential to scale up to `7,000 crore by 2020. But when you pick the ayurvedic product up from the shop shelf, assess its true worth and purity strain before splurging on it.
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GLOBE TROTTER
LOVE
AIR
IS IN THE
PHOTO: THECULTURETRIP.COM
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THERE’S
just too much love happening here. Slovenia is the only country in the world which has the word LOVE in its name (sLOVEnia). Its capital Ljubljana means “the beloved one.” And it is considered the darling of the erstwhile Yugoslavia that parted ways without the bitterness and aggression of other Slavic states. KARISHMA KRIPALANI gives With all the love this place and its people have to you 11 great reasons why Slovenia shower upon you, a visitor cannot help but, at the risk of a should be on your next holiday list cliche, fall in “love at first sight.” Romantic getaways are aplenty but Slovenia gives you reason to indulge in some and is set to become one of Europe’s self-love. And that’s one of the eleven reasons why it will most visited destinations stay forever in my heart.
Standing on the Adriatic coast of Slovenia at Piran, one can see two other countries— Italy and Croatia at the same time
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SLOVENIANS ARE ONE OF THE FRIENDLIEST PEOPLE YOU MEET: During my several trips, never have I come across locals being so warm and wonderful, apart from my home country India. You ask them any question and nine out of 10 times you will get a very patient reply. One such local that I met through a Facebook group was Masa Butara. When I told her that I was planning my birthday trip to her country, she went out of her way to give me a well thought of list of dos and don’ts, quirky things to experience, where to ring in my birthday, places to eat, sightseeing marvels and so on. One of the places that she recommended was Point Ojstrica, which gives you an unparalleled view of Lake Bled. It was very sweet of her to include informative tips such as the difficulty level of the hike, the type of shoes one should come prepared with for treks and the little known routes familiar only to locals. After months of intense planning
1
and anticipation, Masa and I finally met in Ljubjana to catch up. To date we continue to have conversations online. My airbnb host Luka made my stay extremely comfortable. He even arranged a surprise birthday cake for me in Ljubjana’s most popular cake shop — Swezda. Another heart-warming incident was with my boatman in Lake Bled. Usually the boats that take you to the church in the middle drop you off to the same spot from where you got in. I had requested my boatman, Cvetko, to drop me off at Lake Bled castle instead. He had made arrangements for another boat to take me to the castle after the church tour. When the other boat never showed up, Cvetko took the pain to let go of his others trips and took me to the castle in his car. He definitely did not have to go out of his way but he felt so committed that he took it upon himself to do so. I was humbled by the hospitality and involvement. Hats off to Cvetko!
Masa Butara went out of her way to give the author a well thought of list of dos and don’ts, quirky things to experience and sightseeing marvels
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(Above and below) Church of Assumption is framed by photo-lush greenery at Lake Bled
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A CHURCH IN THE MIDDLE OF A LAKE: At
the centre of Lake Bled is an island haven with the Church of Assumption, framed by photo-lush greenery, its spire and bell tower piercing the blue Julian Alps in the background. One can reach the church by renting a boat or by taking the pletna, a traditional boat that looks like a gondola with a roof. There is a bell atop the Church of Assumption which, when rung thrice with all your heart, is said to make all your wishes come true. Any guesses what I wished for?
CAVES AND CREATURES: Slovenia is purity for posterity — right from the snow-capped peaks, the lush green beech and fir trees and icy cold waterfalls to the clear and sparkling lakes and gurgling rivers. It’s a virgin country waiting to be discovered. The sights and sounds of wilderness and nature are packed into a country less than half the size of Switzerland. Postjona Caves, which are over 4,000 years old with wrinkled and furrowed stalactites and stalagmites, are a must-visit. This cave system was first described in the 17th century
3
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Postjona Caves which are over 4,000 years old with wrinkled and furrowed stalactites and stalagmites are a must-visit
by the pioneer scholar of karst phenomena, Johann Weikhard von Valvasor. But it was not until 1818, when the cave was being prepared for a visit by Francis I, the first Emperor of Austria-Hungary, that a link of connected tunnels was discovered accidentally by a local, Luka Cec. The caves officially became a tourist destination when Archduke Ferdinand visited them in 1819 and Cec became the first tourist guide. Electric lighting was added in 1884, preceding even Ljubljana. In 1872, cave rails were laid along with the first train for tourists. At first, these were pushed along by the guides themselves. Later, at the beginning of the 20th century, a gas locomotive was introduced. During World War I, Russian prisoners of war were forced to construct a bridge across a large chasm inside the cave. During World War II, German occupying forces used the cave to store nearly 1,000 barrels of aircraft fuel, which were destroyed in April 1944 by Slovene Partisans. The fire burned for seven days, destroying a large
section of the cave and blackening the entrance. After 1945, the gas locomotive was replaced by an electric one. But if you are not a history buff or a speleologist, then you could be surprised by the resident inmates. The caves are home to the endemic olm, the largest troglodytic amphibian in the world. The tour through the caves includes an aquarium with some olms in it. On January 30, 2016, a female olm at the cave began to lay over 50 eggs. This rare event led to global news about Postojna Cave. Now there are 22 of these creatures. TWO COUNTRIES WITH ONE STONE: Standing on the Adriatic coast of Slovenia at Piran, one can see two other countries at the same time. While your feet are planted firm in Slovenia, look to your left and you get a panoramic sweep of Croatia. A glance to the right and you will peer right into Italy. This Adriatic wonder is surely a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
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(Above) Lake Bled with its island at the centre; the Church of Assumption on it is nothing short of a fairytale. (Right) The emerald green water of the Vintgar Gorge set between two mountains looked unreal, more like a computer wallpaper
EVERY GIRL’S FAIRYTALE: When I saw pictures of Lake Bled, I was pretty sure that they were all edited. But it is only when you stand there, at the centre of all the beauty that you realise the photos had been speaking the truth all along. Lake Bled with its island at the centre, the Church of Assumption on it, the brooding castle, the snow-capped Alps in the background, ducks swimming, people boating, the carpet of red autumn leaves and the smell of fresh morning air was nothing short of being part of a mystical fairytale. I was left awestruck. A perfect backdrop for your dream wedding! If not so inclined, connect with solace and solitude by walking a path that encircles the lake or just follow trailheads for forested hiking paths.
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THE GORGEOUS VINTGAR GORGE: I happened to chance on this must-visit through the hotel concierge. The emerald green water of the lake set between two mountains looked unreal, more like a computer wallpaper than anything else. The visit to the gorge is a long and arduous hike. I urge you give it a shot though, despite your tiredness. The end is undeniably worth it. The beautiful bridge and waterfall that one sees at the end will stay etched in your memory forever. Be sure to carry a waterproof camera for a postcard moment.
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Boozy Jack Daniels Sundae has bananas soaked in whiskey for over eight hours and is served with two dollops of ice-cream
SINFULLY DIVINE DESSERTS: For all those with a sweet tooth, Slovenia is an absolute treat. Lake Bled was covered with posters of their famous Bled cream cake, invented in the 1950s at Café Park Restaurant. To get a real taste of its authenticity, I recommend that the vanillaflavoured cake be tried only at this outlet. They claim that over the past 60 years, they have sold over 13 million cakes in Bled and across Slovenia. The traditional Bled cake is a crispy golden crust made with real butter, layered with pure vanilla beans cream that is held together with a little flour. This is topped with whipped cream, a filo pastry, and icing sugar. Just describing this makes my mouth water. Another dessert worthy of special mention is the Boozy Jack Daniels Sundae served at Stari Piskar restaurant, in the town of Celjie, an hour’s drive from Ljubljana. This banana split dessert (with the bananas soaked in Jack Daniels whiskey for over eight hours and served with two dollops of ice-cream along with a shot of Jack Daniels) will completely blow your senses away. With my fair share of travelling and chocolate tasting experiences from all around the world, I must say that the chocolates here, sprinkled with lemongrass, lavender, rose petals, edible flowers, full pieces of figs, are one of a kind which I have never come across in my travelling life. My
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favourite was the chocolate with basil leaves, figs and Prosciutto ham. I felt like a five-year-old girl in a, well, a candy shop of course. VALUE FOR MONEY: Slovenia is a very pocket-friendly country. You get good Italian meals at 1/3rd the price of its neighbouring country, Italy. Entry into places is also about 1/3rd to 1/2 of other European countries. One can experience beauty akin to Switzerland at half the price with half the crowds of any popular touristy spot. So, for all those young and budding backpackers eager to explore the untouched beauty of the world, Slovenia would perfectly fit into your budget.
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SAFE TO TRAVEL: Slovenia is probably one of the safest countries that I have visited. Unlike a visit to any foreign land which would be marred with the likes of “what if I get mugged, what if I lose my passport, or what will my backup plan be,” Slovenia in my opinion is a travellerfriendly country. If you lose your way, the locals will wholeheartedly walk with you to your destination. If you drop money or your passport, it will be returned to you. You can definitely let go and gain more out of your experiences knowing that you are looked out for. I would highly recommend this country for solo female travellers.
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CASTLE OF UNIQUE EXPERIENCES: Most tourists go to Bled Castle to experience the view. However, there’s a whole lot more to enjoy there. You can see Yugoslavia’s first printing machine in action. Don’t forget to buy yourself a bookmark, it will be printed right there, on handmade paper. The Bee shop inside has at least 30 different varieties of honey. I went for the rum and chocolate after trying out quite a bit of them. The family that renovated the castle, after an earthquake shook its foundations, actually lives there even today. I had a wonderful chat with them on how the castle was repaired and its history. The castle was first mentioned in a deed of donation issued by Emperor Henry II in favour of
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A family lives inside the renovated Bled Castle
the Bishops of Brixen. Then located in the March of Carniola, it passed to the Austrian House of Habsburg in 1278. The oldest part of the castle is the Romanesque tower. In the Middle Ages, more towers were built and the fortifications were improved. Other buildings were constructed in the Renaissance style. The buildings are arranged around two courtyards, which are connected with a staircase. There is a chapel in the upper courtyard, which was built in the 16th century and renovated around 1700, when it was also painted with illusionist frescoes. The castle even has a drawbridge over a moat. Don’t forget to purchase a coin that will be engraved in front of your eyes, a souvenir. The castle has existed for over 1,000 years.
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Students dominate the nightlife at Ljubljana which is dotted with bars and cafés
CITYLIGHTS: Not the adventurous kind? Don’t worry, the concrete jungle is not lacking in any way. Slovenia has a great food scene, modern buildings and quirky street art. The two sides of the spectrum balance each other beautifully, each not butting into the other. For all those wine connoisseurs, this country has
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vineyards galore. Ljubljana has a lot of bars and cafés, but not a tremendous number of restaurants, probably because the students dominate the nightlife. With all of this and a population of about two million, Slovenia is sure to be one of the most visited destinations in Europe.
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HEAD SOUTH
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GO GREEN, GO PERU The South American country beckons travellers with eco-friendly tourism
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the smog of Indian cities getting to you? Head to pristine Peru and take in oxygen by the gulp with a side dressing of scenic beauty, delicious food and hidden treasures. For over the next year, it will be the home of eco-tourism. Peru is one among 12 countries which has the greatest biodiversity on earth. With 25,000 species of flora, 2,000 species of fish, more than 500 mammals and 500 amphibians, it is brewing with potential for eco-tourism. It’s also home to numerous institutions, foundations and NGOs
that are dedicated to the conservation of endangered species, along with protecting natural areas that are in danger of being destroyed by man. BALLESTAS ISLANDS: Often referred to as “the poor man’s Galapagos,” these islands west of Pisco are home to hundreds of thousands of birds, large colonies of sea lions, pelicans, penguins and dolphins. Boat tours visit the islands daily, taking passengers past the “Candelabra” (a hillside geoglyph seen from the coast) and then boating around the islands watching for wildlife.
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11-POINT GUIDE FOR MACHU PICCHU Picchu is one of those places that makes it to the top 10 of almost every bucket list. It’s not just the ruins that call curious travellers from nearly every corner of the world but also the robust culture, beautiful landscapes and endless sense of adventure. However, this exposure means that the UNESCO world heritage site is at a risk. Here is a reckoner of responsible tourism. DO STAY ON THE TRAIL: The trail that winds through Machu Picchu not only protects the ruins but also the people visiting. At more than five centuries old, some of the structure is worn, cracked and deteriorating. Meandering from the set path could not only further damage the walls and flooring but also lead to a visitor hurting themselves. After all, the citadel is on the side of a mountain and it’s a long way to the bottom. DON’T TOUCH THE RUINS: While it’s tempting to touch the massive rocks chiselled by the hands of the Incas, it’s a bad idea. Lotions, sunscreens and bug sprays all contain chemicals that can damage the rock surface. Additionally, thousands visit Machu Picchu every single day; imagine the wear and tear that would take place if each of them dragged their fingers along the facades. DO keep distance from the llamas Although they are cute, snuggly looking and incredibly used to humans, llamas are known to spit, charge and even bite if they feel threatened. The llamas, who the Incas openly worshiped, call Machu Picchu home — be sure to respect them on their turf. On top of that, they aren’t always the cleanest animals and carry disease, fleas and mites. While llamas are known for being innocent, their cleanliness is questionable.
MACHU
HUASCARÁN NATIONAL PARK: Established in 1975 to protect the picturesque mountain area of the Cordillera Blanca and the numerous historical sites found there, this UNESCO Mankind Heritage Site contains more than 650 glaciers, pre-Inca ruins, hundreds of lakes and more than 20 peaks over 19,850 feet. Native people, who have inhabited the region for centuries, still live within the park’s borders. LAKE TITICACA: Perched at an elevation of 12,338 ft, this beautiful blue lake (the highest navigable of its kind in the world) has been inhabited for centuries by ancient cultures and remains steeped in legend. The main city on the Peruvian side is Puno, a good place to arrange tours but it’s in the small communities on the islands or along the shores of the mainland where visitors will find clear water and sandy beaches. MACHU PICCHU: Built by Incas over 500 years ago, Peru’s most popular tourist attraction draws more than 500,000 visitors each year. It’s easy to see why, as the glorious architecture of the ancient city perched high above the clouds remains largely intact, with giant stone walls, old temples and luscious green terraces overlooking a canyon on the Urubamba River and the surrounding Andes mountains. PUERDO MALDONADO: Experience the full Amazon experience in this beautiful national park near the Madre de Dios, which features three conservation areas – the Manu Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the Tambopata-Candamo Reserve, which features populations of several endangered species; and the Bahuaja-Sonene National Park, home to 450 different bird species.
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DON’T POLLUTE: This not only goes for waste pollution, such as bags and bottles, but also noise pollution. It not only disturbs plant and animal life but also the experience for other travellers. Many of them have travelled great distances to experience Machu Picchu and some even view the sacred site as a spiritual one. DO KEEP THE ENTRANCE TICKET: Watching the sun appear over the horizon, followed by the fog and clouds dissipating into thin air and finally, the sun setting into the majestic mountains, makes for a very long day at Machu Picchu. Eating and using the ruins as a rest room is strictly prohibited. Luckily, there are a couple of restaurant choices and clean rest rooms just outside the gates. Head there to relieve hunger (or yourself). Keeping the ticket ensures re-entrance. DON’T LITTER: This goes for not only items like plastic bottles and wrappers, but also fruit and vegetable waste like apple cores, as well as cigarette butts and chewing gum. Don’t throw anything on the ground that you wouldn’t want on the floor of your own home. DO BRING A REUSABLE WATER BOTTLE: All trash, including plastic drinking bottles, has to be shipped from Machu Picchu to Cusco City via train. Help reduce waste by carrying water in a bottle that doesn’t get tossed when emptied. When millions of people visit a place, the garbage can really add up. DON’T buy products made from protected animals
Peru is home to dozens of endangered or protected plant and animal species, including jaguars, pumas, caymans and monkeys. Never buy a product made of a threatened plant or animal species. DO RESPECT LOCALS: Make sure you are asking for permission before snapping a shot of the locals clad in intricately sewn outfits or of government workers like soldiers and police officers. Additionally, locals follow Catholicism, Pachamama (Mother Earth) or a hybrid of the two. Observe the sanctity of their religion. When the townsfolk are celebrating their patron saint or other religious festivals, make sure to be respectful during the street processions and moments of silence. DON’T STEAL: This goes for pieces of the ruins and the natural flora and fauna that call them home. DON’T GET NAKED: Over the past decade, Machu Picchu and Cusco have become havens for travellers from all over the world and in some cases there have been visitors who have been less than respectful of the sacred ruins. Since March 2014, a number of young tourists decided to strip naked and expose themselves during their visit to Machu Picchu as part of the “naked tourism” fad. While streaking in some parts of the world can make for a good story and interesting pictures, doing it in Peru can make for some serious trouble, especially now that the government is cracking down on those who expose their cracks. Their obscene act ended in detainment and eviction from Cusco.
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TA K E 1 1
PHOTO: NOISYPILGRIMS.COM
The festivities are over, the weather is just right — not too hot or too cold — and the crowds are not choking up every destination. In the 11th month, we offer 11 destinations to celebrate the 11th anniversary of our magazine
SWEET PONDICHERRY: In this small settlement, pass your afternoons lazing at the cafes or cycling around the beach and the beautiful houses. In the evening, choose a rooftop cafe and ponder over the mysteries of life with a nice glass of wine or you can just sit at the beach and watch the waves crash into the rocks.
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PHOTO: TOURISM.PONDICHERRY.GOV.IN
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DHARAMSHALA: Right before the snow covers the ground, head to Dharamshala for a very serene and “me time” in the Dhauladhar highs with quirky cafes. Since the off-season is about to begin, the place is quiet and without too many tourists. Just the right stop for self-awareness and introspection.
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GOA: And if there is someplace you want to go which is not off-season — ever — Goa is the answer. The parties are rocking, the shacks are inviting and the beaches are teeming with activities and people. The weather is great — so don those shorts and colourful vests. If you are inclined towards architectural heritage, head to South Goa.
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NOVEMBER MUNNAR: The cool weather is just about setting in and the chill in the air is quite enjoyable. The morning sunlight makes for a perfect weather to enjoy the tea gardens, the church and the hills. Don’t forget to pick up tea, spices and coffee.
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PUSHKAR: This place really comes to life in November with the Pushkar Mela and the various temples in the area. Rush to the ethnic hotspot and soak in the Rajasthani culture, the camel fair and the eternal desert.
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KASHMIR: The tickets are cheap, the weather is amazing and at this time, the valleys and the mountains in Kashmir, the heaven on earth, are at their peaceful best.
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PHOTO: ASATOUR.COM
HAMPI: The pleasant weather of Karnataka gets even better in November and Hampi, like Coorg, becomes a great place to visit. The temples and the architecture are quite a sight to behold. Explore the land at a languorous pace and you will be delighted with the marvels made in stone.
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VARANASI: At the Dev Deepawali festival in Kashi, you can expect many little diyas lighting up the banks of the Ganga. There are cultural performances galore, ranging from music to dance to art.
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COORG: Another jewel that Karnataka boasts of, the hill-station is home to the Kodavas tribe and amazing coffee. The picturesque natural beauty will have you gaping at every turn. Not surprisingly, it is called the Scotland of India.
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PHOTO: TOURMYINDIA.COM
SUNDARBANS: The rains are over and the winter is making its entry on tip toes. The forests are welcoming and the river, with the banks of mangroves on each side, is inviting. The abundant resident animal population is a sight to behold.
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ORCHHA: Literally meaning “the hidden place�, Orchha is one of the marvels of central India. A stronghold of the Bundela rulers during the medieval time period, its spectacular architecture attracts tourists from all over the world. The numerous palaces, forts, frescoes and murals are expansive.
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OFFTRACK
HAIL YE BERRY
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You may have seen the tourist bits of Leh. But there are secrets like the seabuckthorn, which has changed the juice market in India forever, and artistes like ISAAC TSETAN GERGAN, who are changing the discourse. ANGELA PALJOR turns guide
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many, the now commercialised Leh town is about the status quo of the shing stasg (wooden engravings on the windows and doors of a home). But they have a spiritual value, each recess and cornice framing the basic elements — chu (Water), lung (air), mai (fire), sa (earth) and ching (wood) — a symbolic offering to nature and obeisance to the mystic law of the universe. The newly “developed” Leh market is just a facade for the innate cultural secrets of a people living in the shadow of the mountains, as if pulling a bridal veil, the birds flitting past their lives like a perfect tiara. Only the narrow lanes of Old Leh have the ability to connect with what the place used to be — small windows to keep the harsh winter out, a shelkhang (glass house) for the winter sun and the comfortable thub or hearth around which the people
warmed themselves and mutual bonds with endless cups of tea. Over a fire of seabuckthorn. Its berries, leaves and roots have been traditionally used for medicinal properties, food, fodder and firewood. Being a cold desert, Ladakh always had a problem of tapping into a continuous source of firewood. With native wood plant species limited to poplar, willow and juniper, the shrub seabuckthorn, an actinorhizal plant, came to be used as fuel, keeping the house warm along with a mix of cow dung. The value of dry seabuckthorn is 4,785.5 calories per kg. Also, the fact that the shrub is fastgrowing in nature and can be stumped after every three to five years reduces harvesting pressure on other trees. However, with modernisation, its use is limited to protecting stray animals and pedestrian movements around the fields and saplings of willow and poplar trees which are a crucial source of
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timber. But its religious use in monasteries and during particular ceremonies still continues till date. The only productive use of seabuckthorn that continued over the years was protecting the land from environmental degradation. The shrub is known to withstand extreme climatic conditions ranging from -43°C to +40°C. It is also considered as drought-resistant. Found in abundance in the regions of Shey, Chushot and Nubra valley, its extensive roots system is ideal for soil binding. And a plant that is easily 10-12 years old has roots that extend to 537 cm horizontally and 127 cm vertically. This is perfect to keep a check on erosion due to water flow. However, the real magical factor of the shrub does not lie in its roots or the stem. It’s the little berries that grow on it. Now these do not freeze till the temperature reaches -20°C, unlike other fruits
that freeze at -1°C. The berry is a source of more than 100 nutrients — eight vitamins, 24 polyphenols, flavonoids, phytosterols, iron, copper, manganese, selenium and high quality antioxidants. Locals have been extensively using the berry in the traditional amchi treatment. The earliest record of its medicinal value dates back to the eighth century in the Tibetan medicinal classic, Gyud-bzi (Fourth Tantra). Even today the Himalayan shrub has a huge application through its fruit, seed, leaf and root to treat gastric ulcer, heal wounds and purify blood. The fruit is often used as tonic for malnourished children and pregnant women. Modern research has highly supported its medicinal claims — therapeutic, anti-carcinogenic, anti-ageing, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory — and its effectiveness in hypoxia, stress and certain cases of cancer.
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IT
was in August 2001 that the Defence Institute of High Altitude Research (DIHAR) developed the technology for preparing beverage from seabuckthorn’s acidic fruit. As juice, brews and teas, Leh berry products have now transformed the agri-economy of the region. The patented technology was later transferred to commercial units, NGOs and local entrepreneurs. Soon the Leh market was flooded with its own berry juice under various names, such as Leh Berry, Ladakh Berry, Power Berry. About 11,500 hectares of land are currently under seabuckthorn cultivation in Ladakh region itself. The pastures beneath the Shey palace, which stands vigil from 1655 and seats the giant gilded copper statue of Shakyamuni Buddha (39 ft), are now amber with the golden harvest. But for all their abundance, collecting the berries is not an easy prospect as it is labour-intensive to pull them out of the mesh. “Since seabuckthorn is a very bushy plant, it becomes impossible to wade through the nettle and thorns and get into the thick of things. So what we get are mostly collected from the periphery. If pathways can be made, a greater quality of berries could be collected from a smaller
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TRIVIA
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GENGHIS KHAN USED SEABUCKTHORN TO IMPROVE MEMORY, STAMINA, STRENGTH, FITNESS AND DISEASE-FIGHTING ABILITIES OF HIS ARMY. SOVIET COSMONAUTS ON BOARD THE MIR SPACE STATION USED ITS CREAM TO COUNTER RADIATION. IT IS ALSO KNOWN AS THE KING OF VITAMIN C. IN ITS FRESH VARIANT, THE JUICE CANNOT BE STORED MORE THAN A DAY, LIMITING COMMERCIAL VIABILITY. THE FRL TECHNOLOGY HAS ENABLED THE JUICE TO BE TRANSPORTED FROM LEH TO OTHER PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.
area,” says Meera Bhat, a researcher at the Tata Institute of Social Science. We arrive at a row of shrubs, laden with small, yellowish-orange berries. One of the women pickers taps the branches through the thorns with a stick while two more collect the dislodged fruits in a tub. At first pluck, the berry is very sour. The catch is then washed, crushed and juiced according to formula. As Leh Berry juice has now become a musthave, locals have begun innovating with a variety of herbal teas. With seabuckthorn as the main ingredient, they top it up with local tea, yarrow, caraway, mint, tulsi and oregano, producing an antioxidant with bioactive compounds like flavonoids, carotenoids, catechin and phenols. The cosmetic industry has also extracted the
goodness of seabuckthorn oil with a range of fairness creams, moisturisers, anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle creams. Hardly few people know that Mir was the first spacecraft where cosmonauts used seabuckthorn to protect themselves from exposing their skin to high radiation in space. While China, Russia, Mongolia and Canada are already years ahead in terms of using the various medicinal properties of the shrub, it is the wild form available in Ladakh that the market wants to tap into. Since it is more organic, there is a huge international demand as compared to the ones available in China which use pesticides during cultivation. And there might be a slight chance of Ladakh gaining its own originality, identification and playing a vital role in India’s GDP.
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mid the din of Leh bazaar, I reach the main gate of the Ladakh Arts and Media Organisation (LAMO) centre where Isaac Tsetan Gergan holds the office of the Arts Officer. The office was once two different houses — small with the comfort of a summer and a winter kitchen. Just next to it is the chodkhang (a shrine) and a courtyard leading to the guest room which has a traditional seating area — mattresses lined up across the walls with pretty carpets. What is surprising is that Ladakhis, who are considered the most hospitable people and soft-spoken, have even codified the way a carpet is to be laid down. The direction of tufts is to follow the perch of the head of the family. Once you cross the guest room, you will find yourself in what seems to be a cellar with
light streaming in from a vent. But what will grab your attention are the piles of canvases across the floor. It is here that Gergan spends his time, painting the mountains of Ladakh, when he is not capturing the snow-covered rooftops of a bustling city in his camera. “I decided to go to an art school and started with design because it provided me with greater job opportunities. Pennsylvania didn’t suit me, especially because of the place and the environment I had created around me. But on the professional front, it provided me with the ground work.” Later he moved to Vancouver, Emily Carr University of Art and Design, which was a very conceptual school — thinking of ideas rather than the work itself. And this plays a major role in what he does. “Conceptualising the idea of Ladakh — how can two or three, even four things come together? Initially, it was about looking at diverse things through art. But now it’s a reverse process — everything that I have experienced over the years culminates into my artistic world.” It has been five years since he has moved back home and been working with LAMO — doing workshops, curating exhibitions, following art trends and keeping in touch with different artists.
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“I was doing abstract work. It was very contextual, something that made sense only to Vancouver. But working here, there was no space for contemporary art. So my style of working evolved into something that would fit in this space. Another thing was the community — the ones who were looking at the artwork, be it the Old town community or residents of the larger Leh area. The question was, how could I make them understand what I’m doing? And how could I awaken them to their heritage?” Gergen asks. One of the solutions was working on representational art — the people or the monuments through painting, photography and even sculptures. “Photography was always a part of me. Abaley (father) use to have a Pentax camera and I would see my surrounds through the lens.” For Gergan, art is a process. “I take photographs while working on my paintings. This change in medium provides me with a different dimension altogether.” Moving back to Ladakh gave Gergan the space to try out new things — from photographing while flying to riding on a horse back, trying to catch the motion at the exact time. So what’s his perspective of Ladakh? “The painting of an old town Ladakh is looking into the present Ladakh but I’m also imagining how it was years before — bustling with people, merchants and inns on the trade routes,” he tells us. His photographs of a polo match in Ladakh seem spontaneous and quick. “With the horses running fast, one can’t expect me to know the
rider or the animal, but with the knowledge of the region, the sport and its essence in Central Asian culture, I can make a visual commentary. So for me, the two media go hand-in-hand because they enhance each other. But in terms of practice, my work is a culmination of all the media. Though the influence differs, your creative mind brings out the final product. As an artist it is my way of life to be critical and deconstructionist. Modernisation needs to happen alongside history. Also, it is essential to remember that modernisation and Westernisation are two different things. The Leh market may have a modern look but the shing stasg is an attempt to keep a hold on tradition, which will not wear off easily, irrespective of whether or not it’s in fashion. “Also, in terms of architectural heritage, I personally feel we should preserve what can be and at the same time devise solutions about what can’t be preserved and transform it into something else. We can make heritage presentable for today’s generation while keeping its historical essence intact. There is a lot of expectation from the younger generation. But the older generation is equally responsible as they were absorbing different influences in terms of technology and perks of modernisation. It will be hypocritical on their part to judge the present generation on the same ground. The blend of modernisation and history is the only solution — Re-presenting history in a more sustainable manner,” Gergen tells us. Like the repackaged juice of a full-bodied berry.
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RAPIDS RUN
FALLS FROM THE Jharkhand, the 28th state of the Indian Union, is known for its waterfalls which hold immense attraction for tourists. Here’s looking at the five popular ones around the capital of Ranchi
PANCHGHAGH FALLS: The Banai River makes its way through the hard and jagged terrain and branches out in five different streams. So even though the water does not fall from a great height, its roar can be heard from a distance because the five split and swirling streams hit the rocks and create turbulence. Its low height also makes it safe and is, thus, preferred by tourists. TRANSPORT: It is 14 km from Khunti on the road to Simdega. It is 55 km from Ranchi.
HUNDRU FALLS: It is the 34th highest waterfall in India and one of the most famous tourist places near Ranchi. It is created on the course of the Subarnarekha River, where it falls from a height of 98 metres and is a sight to behold. During the rainy season, it takes on a formidable form but in the dry season it turns into an exciting picnic spot. At its base is a pool, which serves as a bathing place. TRANSPORT: It is 45 km from Ranchi, off the Ranchi-Purulia Road.
MOTI FALLS: The fall is in the historical city of Rajmahal and makes for an excellent picnic spot. The stream that plunges into a pool originates in the Rajmahal hills. It is the only fall in Sahibganj district. TRANSPORT: The nearest railway station is at Sahibganj. Trains running from stations like Kolkata, Barmer, Varanasi, Rajgir, Dibrugarh, Guwahati and Delhi halt here.
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The
Netarhat
The Queen of Chhotanagpur is the most beautiful weekend getaway in Jharkhand NETARHAT, an Indian corruption of “nature’s heart,” was a moniker given by homesick British soldiers of the Raj who were sent here. The dense wooded hills, the lush green valley, the sun rising from the Chhotanagpur plateau and exploding in flames down the Vindhya-Satpura range are appreciated by nature-lovers. WHAT TO SEE: SUNRISE POINT: As the sun emerges from the careful silhouettes of yesterday’s dark mountains, sunrise at Netarhat is a memorable rendezvous with nature. The strategic location of Netarhat provides spectacular views. MAGNOLIA SUNSET POINT provides the perfect view to capture the sunset as well as the spectacular moonrise which is surreal, yet real. GHAGHARI FALLS: While the Upper Ghaghari falls are set amid a lush valley, the Lower Ghaghari falls nestle in the quiet of a dense jungle. THINGS TO DO: If you are an adventure lover, you can hike to Burhaghaugh, the second highest fall of Jharkhand. A visit to a local fruit orchard or a long, relaxing nature walk is also enjoyable. HOW TO REACH: Netarhat is at a distance of 156 km from Ranchi, which is well-connected by flights. From Ranchi, one can reach Netarhat by buses and taxis.
Tented accommodation of Tourism Department GOVERNMENT OF JHARKHAND DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM, M.D.I. Building, 2nd Floor, Dhurwa, Ranchi-834004 Secretary Ph.: 0651-2400981, Fax: 0651-2400982, Email: govjharkhandtourism@gmail.com Director Ph: 0651-2400493, Fax: 2400492 Email: dirjharkhandtourism@gmail.com JTDC Email ID: jtdcltd@gmail.com Website: www.jharkhandtourism.gov.in www.facebook.com/jharkhandtourismdepartment Twitter: https://twitter.com/visitjharkhand YouTube: https//m.youtube.com/channel/ UCKDHUzseKwkESQLzOliVOA
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R E L AT I O N S H I P TA K E
MAY DECEMBER
ROMANCE EXOTICA [70] NOVEMBER 2017
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a university some male 50-plus PhD Why do 50-plus men prefer to go student is working on this subject. around with younger women? I am not Keeping abreast with fashion trends: sure how do I qualify to write this The problem with getting old is that article as I have not yet attained one can get trapped in a time warp half a century in human years but I as far as clothing sense is concerned. sure can understand why 50-plus Comedian and Younger women keep old men out of men prefer to go around with performer that vicious circle and keep them younger women. MAHEEP SINGH abreast with latest fashion to save Why? First of all, it’s common sense. Dealing with weak muscles, reasons why 50 plus them from looking like some zombies from another time zone. diabetes, hypertension and cataract men have 20 Younger women look at older men at their age, these men need something wives and as a blank canvas/project and they someone younger to hold their really put in effort to make them hands while they go around places, girlfriends presentable to the world and use escalators, cross Delhi roads — particularly to their set of friends. It’s the younger you know the usual adventurous stuff. Older men women who are more concerned about their older need women with quick muscle reaction and a companion’s looks. It’s their worry now. good eyesight to save them from falling or from The flip side: However, since we have already getting crushed under a bus. reached the verdict that all 50-plus men prefer Why not? And if they have a choice between a younger women, I would also look at the flip side younger woman and a woman their age, why of this hypothesis. Why would younger women go would they choose a more experienced woman around with 50 plus men anyways? It’s not always who can call their bluff, is not gullible at all and the case that older men can choose any young can read you like a glass when it comes to shallow woman they want to go out with. So why do these wants of a man. Of course, they would prefer a women prefer older men? gullible young woman who they can easily What is it an older man can give to a younger manipulate and who looks up to them when it woman which a man of her own age cannot? Is it comes to life advice. the security? Money? Big house? Or just plain old Feel-young factor: A man is as young as the company world charm. The gentlemanly behaviour, the good he keeps. It is a human condition that we must feel old chivalry. I think young women also prefer older young or younger at all ages. The more you age, men as they are tired of younger men behaving the more this tendency becomes stronger. All the like an over-eager, over-enthusiastic dog all the power capsules, protein supplements and all the time. They want someone who is not always advances in medical science are oriented towards immersed in a video game and sulks at a defeat in feeling younger. Having a younger woman as a an imaginary match. May be they are tired of companion keeps men young at heart. It’s a feelyounger men ogling at other women. good factor. Think about the millions saved in Older men are thankful to younger women who healthcare. I hope the government is listening. agree to go out with them. So they pay attention to Showing off: Another basic human need is rubbing their gestures. Almost worship them and follow it off in the faces of fellow old men. Most of the them to the end of the world or to the end of their worldly things bought with money are not basic lives whichever comes first. necessities. They are acquired with the sole aim of — The author is a stand-up comic who performs feeling superior by belittling others. Men who can with Comedy Munch, an exclusive digital platform that make other men jealous are healthier, happier and serves as a marketplace for amateur comics thus are considered wiser. I am sure somewhere in
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WILD CARD
Tiger travels
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A Decade with Tigers: Supremacy. Solitude. Stripes by SHIVANG MEHTA is a unique tribute to the ‘brand ambassadors’ of Indian wildlife. It is a photographer’s take on the dramatic rise in the popularity of tigers in the past decade. The volume chronicles legendary tiger mothers and male tigers as well as their tales of survival. Also showcased is the singular diversity of Indian wildlife through spectacular images of the myriad species that share their home with tigers, photographed in terrains ranging from forests to the plains of Central India. Some picks for EXOTICA
In the last five minutes before sundown, the female cubs decided to use the soft white sand of the stream bed for a brief bout of wrestling
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The cubs became independent by the summer of 2013 and shared territory with their mother. Mehta spotted the male cub one morning with a pangolin kill — a singular sight to behold
Spotty’s cubs manifest signs of their mother’s boldness at Bandhavgarh
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It was always a joy for Mehta to bump into the Rajbehra female in her various habitats as she was bold and a master hunter
Collarwali on a hunting expedition in February 2012. Her five cubs made headlines during this period
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F O O D FA D
BLACK
CURRENTS
Taking the food and beverage industry to the next level, activated charcoal is adding a new layer of texture, flavour and a mild dose of age-old nuskes, says PALAK SHARMA
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now you can flaunt your black tongue without being singled out as a member of a Gothic cult. From grills, bakes, lemonades and pizza crusts to ice-creams, charcoal is being increasingly resorted to in our kitchens, both as a heating medium and a cooking ingredient. Charcoal grilling has made an appearance in fine-diners as a resurrection of tradition that has already been around in street corners and home barbecues. Primarily because no mechanised tool has been able to replicate the smoky flavour that the dry, white-hot heat of charcoal can impart as it sears meat quickly, creating a crusty, caramelised exterior and charming every fibre of vegetables to ooze out its juiciness. The use of powdered charcoal as a cooking ingredient isn’t also without precedent, used as it was in traditional medicine as an antidote to poison and indigestion. It is because of its curative elements and its ability to absorb organic toxins that chefs around the world are using bits of it in their food for texture, crunch and effect. What they have done really is activated charcoal to
WELL,
release its best potential. Simply put, charcoal is treated by high levels of heat so that its surface expands and it becomes incredibly porous on a microscopic level. These tiny pores are what allow charcoal to be so absorbent. Most activated charcoal is made from wood. Very high quality charcoal, like binchotan from Japan, is made from oak. Activated charcoal powder made from bamboo is a popular cooking ingredient in many Asian countries, lending a distinctive look and shelf-life to an array of their baked goods. Western countries have a history of cooking with charcoal powder, too. The Brits have their beloved charcoal biscuits, which they serve with cheese. The French love activated charcoal (which they call charbon végétal activé) for its ability to fight bloating and gas and take down cholesterol levels. But everybody needs to know that its bonding ability with substances is not exclusive to toxins. When you eat activated charcoal, it can also bind with stuff that you don’t want to get rid of — like vitamins, minerals and phytonutrients. Top chefs in the city have, therefore, managed to strike a balance that allows a bit of the whimsy with the goodness.
MEGU AT THE LEELA PALACE [DELHI] art of Megu’s avant-garde creations lies in its modernisation of authentic Japanese cuisine while holding strong to its heritage. Going beyond sushi, the restaurant offers the following dishes that are cooked with and grilled on charcoal. There’s the Salmon Steak, which is Scottish salmon fillet cooked over binchotan charcoal, glazed with citrus teriyaki and served on Fuji lava stone. Or go for the Buta Yaki, which is rolled pork belly cooked over binchotan charcoal. Barbeque lamb chops draw their goodness as they are placed over binchotan and dribbled with yakiniku sauce. But the dish to die for is the Salmon Tartare. The tartare of salmon is encrusted with tobiko and served with tosazu jelly. Binchotan is used on the guest table to melt the jelly which imparts subtle and unique smokiness to the dish. Chef De Cuisine Masahiro Kinoshita and his team of young chefs are at the helm of exquisitely harmonising the art and science of contemporary gastronomy. Says he, “Megu literally means ‘blessing’ in Japanese. The restaurant’s menu and design concept is a striking blend of traditional and modern Japanese culture. It combines top quality ingredients with authentic Japanese elements to create a one-of-a-kind dining experience.”
THE
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ROSEATE HOTELS AND RESORTS
CHEF BARCELOS [PAN-INDIA] global name in the F&B sector, it entered the Indian market and experienced competition from other existing chains. So it stood out by rolling out charcoal-inspired black buns. “Everyone was offering varieties in stuffing or filling. So we just expanded our range of buns in different colours and flavours, which became a hit with foodies,” says Rohit Malhotra, business head, Barcelos-India. The black burger that uses permitted amounts of vegetal charcoal comes in vegetarian, chicken and lamb variations and goes well with salads and potato fries. Barcelos India also features black macaroons.
A
Nishant Choubey, corporate chef, Roseate Hotels and Resorts, shares the trick behind the infusion of charcoal in food: “One important point to know is that an activated charcoal should not be heated directly. One can make it easily at home by burning wood, coconut shell or coal. The ash can then be filtered with calcium chloride and used. Activated charcoal tablets can also be easily sourced from chemists. Unless used properly, it might get the dish totally wrong.” He says the trend of activated charcoal is fairly new but acceptable because it is natural, odourless and very healthy, removing as it does toxins from the body when taken in adequate quantities. “Since it has no taste, it mixes very well with any flavour or raw material and is
MASALA LIBRARY BY JIGGS KALRA
THIS
fine diner introduced charcoal to lend a unique flavour to and help in detoxification of food. “The restaurant uses it in dishes that have been locally sourced. The charcoal is made in-house and is mostly used to impart complex flavours and contrasting colours,” says head chef Saurabh Udinia. A hit or a miss? “The concept of charcoal will depend upon individual reaction, palate and the usage of it as a food ingredient. At present, its use is mostly as a permitted food colour,” he mentions.
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MOLECULE AIR BAR [GURUGRAM]
PIYUSH
visually appealing. The trend has caught on as the ingredient has a natural black colour without the use of unhealthy bottled agents,” he says. Their dishes such as Murgh Malai Tikka (a charcoal malai chicken served with red pepper chutney and beetroot cracker) as well as Charcoal Crystal Dimsum and Charcoal Crusted Rare Seared Tuna are extremely popular.
TAMRA, SHANGRI-LA’S EROS HOTEL [NEW DELHI]
THE
hotel’s all-day dining outlet, Tamra, has three diverse charcoal recipes to its credit. There’s the black ice-cream, cake rolls, charcoal waffle and black macaroons. “Charcoal is an ancient ingredient that has been used for a long time by our ancestors,” says Neeraj Tyagi, Executive Chef. He further informs how the ingredient, if used in balanced amounts, can be a good way of detoxifying your body. Says he, “Considering that Indian gastronomy is going through various discoveries, charcoal does not come as a surprise. However, the process of infusing it in food with creativity is what the food and beverage industry is looking at.” He says that activated charcoal is easily available at medical stores and is trending because it’s neither expensive nor tough to use. “Due to its mild flavour and the quality to blend with most food ingredients, we have managed to incorporate quite a few versions of the same in our buffet menu at Tamra,” he adds.
Jain, chef at Molecule Air Bar, still remembers the time when he introduced activated charcoal in his recipes. “Initially when I had presented my dish, people were not ready to experiment, given its colour and appearance. But when I informed them about the importance of charcoal in our dietary health, they were game,” he says. There are two dishes that he introduced in Molecule — Edible Coal served with Lava Ash and Black Hummus with Pita. While designing the first, he played on visual appeal, insisting that the dish should look like a charcoal that is burnt and served with burning ash and red embers. “When I was doing trials of the dish, I wanted to give a stuffing of something that should be old world and correlate the dish to what we been eating since ages. Then I thought of making Dahi ke kebab in the shape of lumpy coal which people had never seen before.” According to him, the edible coal works phenomenally well because the outer coating is black in colour and bursts into a molten, fluffy white core. His second dish that includes activated coal is black hummus with pita. It may sound very crazy but it tastes like normal hummus and pita. “As most of the chefs are working on different styles of hummus, I thought of doing it in a different format which is black and would make a vivid contrast served with white pita bread,” he adds. While we all know that hummus is made of chickpea, which is heavy on the stomach, the chef has a hack. “If we can give activated charcoal with it, which is always helpful in gastric issues, then people can indulge in hummus without getting heavy on their stomachs,” he informs.
ICEKRAFT [MUMBAI]
NO
course is complete without desserts. Icekraft, an ice cream parlour based out of Mumbai, offers black cones for its ice creams, giving a Gothic touch for it consumers. The charcoal is just used as a colouring agent and its presence does not affect the taste of the cone or its crunch.
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GURUSPEAK
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WHAT Sri Sri Ravi Shankar Spiritual Guru
Bring the mind, which is all over the place, back to its source. It is only when you come to yourself that every place looks beautiful
is the difference between a tourist and a pilgrim? Both are on a journey. While a tourist is satisfying the senses, a pilgrim is in the quest of truth. A tourist gets tired and tanned, while a pilgrim sparkles with spirit. Every move a pilgrim makes is with sacredness and gratitude, while a tourist is often preoccupied and unaware. A tourist compares with other experiences and places and hence is not in the present moment. But a pilgrim has a sense of sacredness, so he tends to be in the present moment. Most people in life are just tourists without even being aware of it. Only a few make their life a pilgrimage. Tourists come, look around, take pictures in their mind, only to come back again. Pilgrims are at home everywhere and are hollow and empty. Tourists go from place to place looking for beauty. But while they try to take away the beauty from that place, they only get tired and tanned. Yet the most beautiful spot is right here! When you come here, you find that wherever you
CELEBRATE THE JOURNEY
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are, everything is so beautiful. Where is this place? Don’t look here and there. It’s right within you! If you are unhappy, even sweet things are nauseating, music is disturbing and even the moon is irritating. When you are calm and centered, noise is musical, clouds are magical and rain is liquid sunshine. Often people run after parties and celebrations, but for the one who doesn’t run after them, parties and celebrations follow him. If you are running after parties, loneliness comes to you, but if you are in the solitude of the self, parties surround you.
THE
dilemma of life is that everyone is looking for a perfect balance. People, who are in company all the time, look for the comforts of solitude. People, who are in solitude, feel so lonely and want to be in company. People who are in a cold place want to be in a warm place. People who are in a warm place love something cool. Perfect balance is like a razor’s edge. It can only be found in the self. There is a story. Ten people were going from one village to another. On the way they had to cross a river. After crossing, they wanted to be sure all were there. Each one started to count but counted only nine. They were very distraught and began to cry for the loss of the 10th. A wise man came along and asked them, ‘‘My dear friends, why are you crying? We were 10 but now we are only nine,’’ they replied. The wise man saw that they were 10, so he asked them to count again. Each counted nine but left himself out. Then the wise man made them count again, and he said to the last person, ‘‘You are the 10th’’, and they all rejoiced for having regained their faith. Similarly the five senses and the four inner faculties (mind, intellect, memory, ego) all lament when they lose sight of the self. The joy is in finding the ever-present. With the knowledge of the self, everything is truly joyful. The wisdom that doesn’t give rise to feeling is incomplete. The feeling that doesn’t translate into action is incomplete. Action that doesn’t give rise to fulfilment is incomplete. Fulfilment is returning to the self.
OFTEN
people think of the self as the mind-body complex. This is an erroneous notion. Neither the body nor the mind is the self. All the yoga you do is for the body. All the meditation you do is for the mind. Whether calm or disturbed, your mind remains mind. Whether sick or healthy, your body remains body. Self is all-encompassing. Among all planets in the solar system, the earth is privileged to host life in its many forms and among all the species, humans are most privileged for they can host knowledge. Again and again you remember that you are peace, you are love, you are joy and that you are hosting the Creator.
PEOPLE, WHO ARE IN COMPANY, LOOK FOR THE COMFORTS OF SOLITUDE. PEOPLE, WHO ARE IN SOLITUDE, FEEL LONELY AND WANT TO BE IN COMPANY. PEOPLE WHO ARE IN A COLD PLACE WANT TO BE IN A WARM PLACE. PEOPLE WHO ARE IN A WARM PLACE LOVE SOMETHING COOL. PERFECT BALANCE IS LIKE A RAZOR’S EDGE
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The only purpose for this body to exist is to make you aware of how beautiful you are and to make you aware that it is possible to live all the values you cherish and create a world of divinity around you. Like the birds returning to their nests, again and again come back to your source; only then can you realise that you host the creator.
IF
we take out some time — say two or three days in a year — to keep silence and simply observe our own thoughts and emotions, then we get a sense of what quietness means. The ease with which you are able to handle your environment or the situation around you, is what I would call being able to utilise your full potential. When you are in touch with your full potential, nothing or nobody can shake you. Attaining a spiritual level is simply recognising that there is life everywhere and that there is spirit everywhere. I don’t see a division between what’s spiritual and what’s material. The finest aspect of matter is spirit. The gross aspect of spirit is matter. It’s like body and mind. You see through the eyes, but actually the eyes are the means through which
the mind sees. The mind is the spirit. The whole world is combination of spirit and matter. Inner journey and outer world events are complementary. If you are happy inside, you are able to work dynamically outside. The more dynamic you are, the deeper and better the rest and meditation is. Therefore, spiritual practices, too, are not something that are any different from you being spirited and being happy and compassionate and being in love. See your whole past as a dream. In the future, you will do many things and they will all pass like a dream. Knowing this and being aware of it, the space within us starts to open up and we experience heightened awareness. Repose in that peaceful, cool, calm, serene depth of your being is immensely valuable and precious. Bring the mind, which is all over the place, back to its source. It is only when you come to yourself that every place looks beautiful. And wherever you go, you add beauty and bring comfort to others. Book yourself on a trip to this most beautiful place in the universe. Then you will find that every day is a vacation and a celebration. — www.artofliving.org
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COZY COMFORT
WINTERHOMETOUR If you are uber stylish, why should your home not reflect it too? Some ideas to banish the chills
[1]
[2]
[3]
[1] Hay Polygon is a two-tone quilted and reversible bed cover with a polygon pattern, now available in a variety of colours. The combination of modern design and colour scheme with traditional quilting techniques makes the quilts trendy bedroom accessories. [2] This vintage style cardigan with a superb removable gingerbread man in the pocket will fit a two pint tea pot. Great gingerbread man for the grand kids to have while you have a break. By The Gedling Clothing Emporium. [3] Keep that tea hot with these colourful cozy covers for mugs specially designed by Livermaster. [4] The ‘Moro’ pouf is knit in classic cable pattern with a chunky cotton rope in trendy colours. Its pumpkin shape and smart casual appearance have made it probably the highest seller around the world. From fashion labels to DIY stores, one can find a version of the cable knit pouf all across. This pouf by The Rug Republic is a must have for any home lover. [5] Raw sheep wool zig-zag detail design blanket is made with natural undyed organic wool. This classic grey and cream blanket for a bed or sofa is hand-woven on a wooden handloom. Just the thing to snuggle up in with your loved one this winter. [6] The nautical themed cushion would enhance any room in your home and would also be perfect for a boat, camper van, beach hut or nautical nursery. The front crochet panel has been lovingly made from cotton yarn by Nautical. [7] Combining the different textures from the menu of pitloom weaves and constructed out of a blend of wool and viscose, the Arvon rug is completely in tune with the latest trends in floor coverings. Scandinavian in looks, and luxurious in feel, this rug is by The Rug Republic.
[5]
[6]
[7]
[4]
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BLITHESPIRIT
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Magandeep Singh Sommelier
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WHISKY, ICE AND EVERYTHING NICE
A rundown of what you should stock up for a relaxed evening with friends or solitary splendour
THERE
is something about whisky and how it makes so many imbibers feel at ease, as if it is what we have drunk since the beginning of time. Many of us would find it surprising if told that it only came into the limelight just about a 100 years ago worldwide and India’s affair with this dark spirit is even shorter. But nothing says comfort at a social party in India than whisky. Scottish or Irish, American or Japanese, or even any of the Indian versions (many of which aren’t even true whiskies), they are all good for a soirée between friends. Recently, whisky has seen a resurgence in India. What’s significant this time around is that the new drinkers are a lot younger, 25-35 years old usually, and show a keener preference for the unusual stuff. So it’s not just about old school single malts being sipped in leather-upholstered libraries. Instead it’s about having it on ice and with a DJ playing the latest EDM in the background.
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Here are a few whiskies which are on my radar this season: JAMESON CASKMATES: This is the classic Jameson aged in ex-craft beer barrels (stout) barrels. It imparts a certain chocolatey-coffee finish to the spirit. This is the best case scenario when whisky and beer aficionados cross paths. The worst case scenario would be too gory to be recounted ever anywhere.
TOGOUCHI JAPANESE WHISKY: Personally, I still don’t get the hype but since it’s the hot topic around town, how can one afford to not have a Japanese whisky on their shelves? Togouchi is a soft, very gently-seated blended whisky from Hiroshima and while I do think it’s a bit expensive for what is inside the bottle, I think that of most Japanese whiskies. So I guess it’s par for the course. The dark porcelain-finish bottle is a nice premium touch nevertheless. RAMPUR: This new Indian malt is among the best I have tried. It was unveiled in Vegas last year and since then, it has only been available in hushed sips and coveted circles. Rampur is where the distillery is located, making the region notorious for something else besides their knives. WOODFORD RESERVE: Among the many Bourbons out there, I have been enjoying the Woodford Reserve recently. It shows balance and elegance with some soft vanilla and toast. Unlike many Bourbons which seem to run away with that “Christmas cake in a glass” flavour range, this one shows a lot more restraint. Also blends well with cocktails like a Manhattan or a Whiskey Sour.
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IRISH COFFEE INGREDIENTS o 4 ounces strong, rich hot coffee o 1½ ounce Irish whiskey o 2 teaspoons brown sugar o 1 ounce lightly whipped o Double cream METHOD o Pour the sugar, then coffee into a warm Irish coffee glass, mug or other heat-proof glass. o Stir until dissolved. o Add the Irish whiskey and stir again. o Float the cream on top by pouring it over the back of a spoon. Do not stir again. Instead, drink the coffee through the cream.
MANHATTAN COCKTAIL INGREDIENTS o 2 ounces rye whiskey, bourbon or Canadian whiskey o 1 ounce sweet vermouth o 2–3 dashes Angostura Bitters o Cherry for garnish METHOD o Pour the ingredients into a mixing glass with ice cubes. o Stir well. o Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. o Garnish with the cherry.
PAUL JOHN: Another Indian malt whisky for the list, one that is more readily available and is winning awards all over. It’s hard to keep track of all the variants they have in their kitty now but the seated versions are definitely distinct and likeable. Definitely worthy buying for yourself or for gifting. Whisky or whiskey cocktails are a great way to enhance your enjoyment of the spirit. I have never been opposed to the idea of mixing in other ingredients with a good dram but even I draw the line at 12-year-old whiskies. Anything upwards of a 15-year-old is to be considered sacred like mother’s milk and not diluted or tainted with anything except maybe the gentlest splash of water. Also, don’t scoff at new region whiskies, from Greenland to Tasmania, even Italy and France. Great malt needn’t be limited by our territorial mindsets. So pour yourself a stiff large one, open your mind, sink back into that leather wingback and find a good book to keep you company.
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FITNESS
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The sun salutation is an important, dynamic practice derived from the Vedas that aligns you with the universe
Bharat Thakur is a yoga guru and founder of Artistic Yoga
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ancient yogis lived in sync with nature and its cycles. They believed that there is a very close relationship between external and internal worlds, between the individual and the universe. They recognised the sun as the source of life on this planet for without it, most living things could not survive. They devised sequences of postures and mantras (chants) that aimed to align the sun’s energy with the individual’s. These were traditionally done early in the morning as the sun was rising and when its rays were the most beneficial. Surya Namaskar originates from these practices and is a unique process of solar vitalisation. It consists of 12 asanas (postures) arranged to flow from one to the other. Each one affects a particular chakra (nerve plexus) and a particular body organ. This sequence stretches, strengthens the body and makes it flexible. It improves blood circulation, counters physical and mental fatigue, restores body balance and revitalises it. Beginners start with learning the correct positions and how to move from posture to posture while coordinating the breath. This is only the beginning. Surya Namaskar can be done dynamically and in my classes, we sometimes do 51 or 108 rounds as this is very good cardio and helps in weight loss. Done fast, it’s also very good for co-ordination and flexibility. If you’re practising Surya Namaskar like this, within six months you will see the difference in your body. You are not tired any more. You are energised and will see your energy level going so high that people around you will ask, “what are you doing?” So once your body gets better, once you lose weight, once you start looking happier and younger, then you will understand that the practice of yoga is not just physical but also mental and spiritual.
SURYA NAMASKAR FOR HEALTH & VITALITY
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STEP 2 o Inhale while keeping palms STEP 1 o Stand straight, together, stretch your arms over feet together, your head palms folded in o Shoulders, front of chest ears and head o Breathe are in line normally
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STEP 5 o Exhale, take the right leg back so the body STEP 3 is in a straight o Exhale as you line from head bend forward, to toes STEP 4 place your o Toes tucked in, fingers, palms or o Inhale, with fingers point both palms on hands by the side of your feet the floor, take left forward o Body weight is leg back, bend o Bring your balanced on the right knee head to your knees and relax o Arch your back toes and palms
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STEP 6 o Hold your breath and place knees on floor o Bend your elbows, touch chest and forehead to the floor
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[5] [6]
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SURYA NAMASKAR [THE SUN SALUTATION] [8]
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[9] [12] STEP 7 o Inhale and stretch body upwards o Straighten your elbows and arch your back to look up
STEP 8 o Exhale, push back on your arms and raise hips as high as possible o Tuck the chin inside, towards chest, look at your navel o Heels are flat on floor
STEP 9 o Inhale and bring your right leg forward, arching your back o In subsequent rounds, alternate between left and right leg in Step 4 and 9
BENEFITS o Improves flexibility of whole body o Strengthens and tones muscles o Opens the granthis (physical blockages) in body so that it looks younger, more vibrant and lustrous o Balances the chakras (the vital plexus in the body)
STEP 10 o Exhale, bring the left leg forward o Straighten the legs o Bend forward to place palms on floor (as for step 3)
STEP 11 o Inhale while keeping palms together, stretch your arms back over head (as in step 2)
STEP 12 o Exhale and come back to start position o Start with 10-12 rounds, done slowly and gradually increase the number
o Improves blood circulation and digestion o Improves cardio-respiratory endurance o Helps with weight loss when rounds are increased CAUTION: Those with high BP, heart disease, hernia, severe back problems should avoid this practice or consult their doctor.
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SOMETIMES
Kushan Mitra Auto & tech expert
The Skoda Octavia vRS is the most fun you can possibly have with a car under `50 lakh, let alone `30 lakh
SPEED NEED IS ALL YOU
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YOU
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might think that the life of an auto writer is pretty awesome right? Driving fancy cars and travelling to exotic places. Well, it is pretty awesome but here are some facts. First, you spend far too much time inside a plane and running around airports trying to make connections. Racial profiling at airports abroad? Well, I have a beard so that shit happens. Second, fancy hotels in fancy places sure. But for one night, usually coupled with a wake-up call at five in the morning, and if it is a Maruti drive, four in the morning. And third, you usually end up driving an endless stream of mediocrity. I mean, they’re not bad cars you drive. Well, sometimes, yes, they’re horrible, but mostly they’re ordinary. I mean, what can you do to make a small diesel hatchback fun? Nothing. But this past weekend I drove something truly good fun, the new Skoda Octavia vRS. Oh, my God, this car was fun. I mean I’ve driven other Volkswagen group cars with the same engine and power combination, the Audi S3 primarily, but not in India. Yet this was something else. I’ve always had
a soft spot for the Skoda Octavia, not just because I like its liftback shape but because since its first generation, through the Laura and now third generation car, it has been a superbly engineered vehicle. I drove the current generation vehicle through 2,000 km in Uttar Pradesh ahead of the 2014 general election and it is a wonderful long distance cruiser. I do have some minor issues with the facelift, as the twin headlights are a bit too reminiscent of the previous-generation Mercedes E-Class, but when you have such an engine, and you’re sitting inside, you forget such niggles. Let us come to the engine. You can get a lot more power from a lot of other cars but I have a belief that for India, 250 horsepower or thereabouts is more than enough power. Now, the vRS has “just” 230 PS. It is not always about power but the way an engine delivers the power. And on this car the engine is sublime, because, thanks to the brilliant
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DSG automatic gearbox, the power comes through whenever you need it. Put your foot down and the rev counter almost skips to the high-end. It really makes you wonder just how strong the mechanism behind the counter is, because you really worry that it might break one day. When you are pushed back in your seat and travelling at a rate of knots that seems scarcely believable, you really don’t care. This car puts a smile on your face.
THE
other changes make a difference too. A slightly adjusted suspension set-up, while harder than the regular Octavia, is superbly adept, but it also allows you that little bit of wiggle room when you throw the car into a corner. The slightly wider rear track, shorn with wider tires which protest a slight bit when you pull off such a stunt, lets you have supreme confidence in the car. There are some cosmetic changes as well, for example the blacked out alloys and radiator grille. Of course, like the firstgeneration vRS, you get a rear spoiler, which surprisingly looks smart on the car, especially if it is the red vRS that I drove.
Now usually with such power comes not just great responsibility but great cost. Other cars with similar amounts of power would be cars like the BMW 330i GT, which have an on-road cost of close to `50 lakh. So the shocker here is the cost of the vRS, which has an ex-showroom price of just above `25 lakh, putting it on the road at a shade under `30 lakh. That is unbelievable value in my opinion, for a car that is so much fun to drive. Sure, if you drive her hard, the vRS will return just 6-7 km per litre, but on my regular commute a couple of days, it returned a respectable 9.5 km per litre. Had I been a bit softer, I’m sure that the vRS could easily manage 10+ km to the litre in daily use. You might end up spending a bit on tires though, although the Hankooks she came with are a nice soft compound, grippy and quiet. Frankly put, this is a car I could consider buying, now that Skoda India have launched a series of service packages for their vehicles and a four-year warranty. And the folks at Skoda assure me that they would replace the springs on the rev counter and speedometer if they break from overuse. Good then, that’s decided.
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BEYOND AIRPORTS
Senior officials of AAI at the India pavilion of the World Routes 2017, Barcelona
MAKE A DIFFERENCE From showcasing infrastructure, to being engaged in CSR activities and taking part in conferences, AAI has a multi-pronged approach
Airports Authority of India (AAI) manages 126 airports, which include 23 international airports, eight customs airports, 76 domestic airports and 19 other civil enclaves at defence airfields. AAI also provides Air Traffic Management Services (ATMS) over the entire Indian air space and adjoining oceanic areas with ground installations at all airports and 25 other locations to ensure the safety of operations. AAI acknowledges that there are, or can be, expected and unintended outcomes and impact of its core business, which is to build and operationalise airports. The AAI is engaged in activities which extend beyond managing airports. From showcasing infrastructure, to being engaged in CSR activities and taking part in conferences, the organisation has a multi-pronged approach.
THE
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(Clockwise from top) AAI pavilion at GES exhibition in Greater Noida; AAICLAS exhibition at Pragati Maidan; AAI pavilion at World Routes 2017
World Routes 2017 in Barcelona, Spain September, delegates from from Airports Authority of India led by I.N. Murthy, member (Operations) participated in the World Routes 2017 at Barcelona. They had fruitful meetings with over 30 global airlines and government representatives from various nations and invited them to start operations from various cities of India. All major airport operators like AAI, GMR, GVK, Bengaluru International Airport Ltd. (BIAL) and Cochin International Airport Ltd. (CIAL) were showcased at the the India Pavilion under the aegis of the Ministry of Civil Aviation. The Ministry-led initiatives like UDAN (Ude Desh Ka Aam Naagrik), WINGS 2018 and GAGAN were also highlighted during the event. Some of the prominent dignitaries who visited the India pavilion were Civil Aviation Minister of Mozambique; Minister of Infrastructure of Bilbao, Spain and few senior representatives of various global airlines. The AAI delegates also held fruitful route development meetings with prominent airlines like Oman Air, British Airways, Air Canada, Hong Kong
IN
Airlines, Kuwait Airlines, Monarch Airlines, Gulf Air, Finnair and VietJet Air. Besides the attractive design, the India pavilion attracted a lot of attention because a yoga teacher who imparted live lessons.
Showcase of infrastructure development by AAICLAS a vision to becoming the foremost integrated logistics network in India, AAI Cargo Logistics and Allied Services Company Limited (AAICLAS) was established on August 11, 2016. It works as a multi-modal interface linking air, surface and water transport, thus becoming the largest networked and fastest logistics solutions provider company of India. An exhibition of AAICLAS held in May this year at Pragati Maidan highlighted the successful implementation of the integrated development, expansion and modernisation of the operational, terminal and cargo facilities at the airports in the country conforming to international standards. The mission of the cargo department is zero tolerance to mishandling of cargo. AAI has been in
WITH
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the business of international cargo handling/ storage since the past four decades and had created and successfully managed Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata airports before JVCs (DIAL & MIAL) took over Delhi/Mumbai airports in 2006. AAI has been undertaking the international cargo handling operations at Chennai, Kolkata, Lucknow, Coimbatore, Trichy, Amritsar, Guwahati, Indore, Bhubaneswar and Mangaluru airports departmentally and Trivandrum, Varanasi, Bagdogra, Calicut, Vizag, Jaipur, Ahmedabad and Goa airports through Operations & Maintenance (O&M) model. Similarly, on the domestic front, AAI, according to its roadmap, has identified 24 airports across the country for creation of Common User Domestic Air Cargo Terminals (CUDCT), out of which Port Blair, Coimbatore, Jaipur, Chennai, Amritsar (interim), Lucknow (outbound), Bagdogra, Bhubaneswar, Kolkata, Goa and Ranchi airports are being run departmentally and Madurai, Vizag, Raipur, Indore, Mangaluru, Ahmedabad and Aurangabad airports are being managed on O&M contract basis. The exhibition portrayed AAICLAS’ initiatives in Cargo Infrastructural Development. This includes Centre for Perishable Cargo, express/courier terminal, strengthening of cargo security, X-ray screening, automation in air cargo handling and augmentation of capacities and also showcasing Integrated Cargo Management System (ICMS). The exhibition was organised by Airports Authority of India and the stall was beautifully decorated. Senior AAI officials from various directorates manned the stall during the event and provided detailed information to the visitors about the development of infrastructure at various cargo terminals across the country. The stall design and display of AAICLAS were appreciated by the public and top officials, alike.
to maintaining the highest standards of business performance. An exhibition depicting AAl’s CSR initiatives was held in May this year at Vigyan Bhawan in New Delhi. It highlighted the successful implementation of CSR activities across the country. The beautifully decorated stall at the exhibition was manned by senior officers of AAI of various directorates and provided visitors with detailed information about the development of various CSR activities of AAl across the country. The stall design and display of AAI’s CSR were well-appreciated by the public and top officials. The exhibition showcased the AAl’s CSR work, including integrated community development, that fills the gaps in the statutory resettlement and rehabilitation programmes of the government and ensures that the quality of lives of communities are positively impacted at airport sites. This includes education — formal, informal and AAI pavilion at CSR fair, Vigyan Bhawan
Development of Communities and Environment with growth the nature of AAI’s work, the primary impact is on the environment and communities in the immediate vicinity of the airports. Therefore, the AAI’s inspiration and approach for CSR has been to bring empowerment opportunities for the underprivileged communities near airports in order to create an environment of inclusive growth. The Corporate Social Responsibility CSR) policy of the AAI is aligned with its overall commitment
GIVEN
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AAI officials interacting with visitors at CSR fair vocational training that contributes towards sustained income generation and self-sufficiency. It also focusses on health as an integral component of a better quality of life with special focus on women and girls. AAI’s CSR activities include a healthcare centre with 24x7 advanced medical facilities and emergency services for nearly 14,000 people living within 25 km area of Pakyong town in Sikkim. There is also a state-of-the-art medical mobile unit with advanced medical diagnosis facilities, in collaboration with the Department of Health, Government of Sikkim. Equipped with high quality diagnosis and treatment facilities, the van serves over 600 people every month. The AAI has tried to develop rural sports by setting up a double mat wrestling-cummultipurpose hall at Baraut (UP) to groom youth from the rural areas for national and international level wrestling. The hall has a capacity of around 300 people. Under education and skill development, AAl’s CSR wing organised the Aasha Skill Training Programme for underprivileged women living near the Jaipur Airport. Over six months, the programme trained 180 women in cutting and tailoring, making soft toys and tie and dye techniques. Additional facilities were provided at the Panchayat Union Primary School, Cowl Bazar, near the Chennai airport. The repair and maintenance of school buildings, construction of classrooms, library
and a toilet block were undertaken by AAI. Two new school buildings were constructed near Kolkata airport including over 50 classrooms, computer rooms, libraries, assembly hall, laboratories, toilets and staff rooms. The Yuvastar Career Development Programme through NIIT near Mumbai airport, eShiksha Digital Class Project near Mumbai airport and additional facilities in schools near Jalgaon airport, Maharashtra, are some of the main CSR activities undertaken by AAI.
Global exhibition on services Department of Commerce, Government of India, Services Export Promotion Council (SEPC) and the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) jointly organised the first Indian Global Exhibition on Services (GES) at Pragati Maidan from April 23 to 25. The event was inaugurated by the then President of India, Mr Pranab Mukherjee, and witnessed promising participation from various Indian companies. AAI, too, participated in the event and showcased the following: cargo facilities at various AAI airports and their potential to gain and enhance non-traffic revenue of AAI, infrastructural development at various AAI airports, initiatives of AAI in the fields of CNS and ATM, projection of the GAGAN project, highlights of marketing of airports and advanced technology being used in various facets of civil aviation in India.
THE
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CHIC KIDS
M O N I S H A J A I S I N G For the sporty boys, pick up the cotton track suit, embroidered with boxing gloves motif. PRICE: `3,499
For the girls, there is an umbrella motif embroidered cotton track suit. PRICE: `4,950
If parents are kitted out in designer clothes, can the young ones be far behind? Here’s looking at ensembles from a clutch of designers
S I D D H A R T H T Y T L E R
Designs on children The young miss can strike a pose in this white and blue cherry blossom-printed georgette shirt paired with navy lycra twill pants. PRICE: `7,500
White and blue cherry blossom banana crepe printed shirt with lycra twill navy pant is just perfect for the young master. PRICE: `8,000
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S H I V A N & N A R R E S H For the young lady heading to the swimming pool, nothing less than this colour block two-piece with blue straps made of 100 per cent Italian jersey will do. PRICE: `4,500
You can’t beat these blue swim shorts in 100 per cent Italian Jersey for the beach boys PRICE: `4,200
B O W & B A N G L E
E B R U D A N Y A L
A long reversible Nehru jacket paired with mandarin collared shirt in lime coloured Habutai silk. The trousers have triangle motifs embroidered on the hem in red. PRICE: `10,500
A little jacket with butterfly sleeves in lilac chanderi is paired with a halter-neck style crop top made from gold cotton zari fabric and signature flower tie-up tassels on the back. A wrap skirt completes the outfit PRICE: `10,850
Young boys would love the animal theme outfit of cotton blue shirt with cotton navy trousers which are stylised with bow and suspenders PRICE: `14,000 The little miss will look perfect in this pearl collar blue tutu dress. PRICE: `15,500
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Dress up the little munchkin in this handwoven merino pashmina jumpsuit PRICE: On request
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The handwoven merino Pashmina dress in checks is a head turner for sure PRICE: On request
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WRAP UP A lowdown on the newest in winter wear. These are the trends that will put the spotlight firmly on you
WOOLLY RED SOLID WINTER JACKET: Be comfortable and stylish with this red winter jacket for women by Gipsy. It is an essential pick to stay warm and cosy this season. Made with polyester, this jacket lends itself to being styled in different ways. Pair it with jeggings and sneakers or slacks and clogs – either way you will be the lady in red.
COAT WITH DRAPED COLLAR: Short coat with a round neckline, long sleeves, front piped pockets and side vents at the hem from Zara. Features a multi-position removable scarf.
HOODY JACKETS: The stylish and warm short parka for women is lined with a hood faux fur collar and soft teddy lining. Wide stand-up collar provides extra wind-shield.
EAST WIND SWEATER COAT: The sumptuous floral jacquard belies the weighty warmth of this brilliant embroidered, wool blend coat. Fine embroidery detail on front panel, asymmetrical hem and neckline make it stand out.
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WONDERS BIKER JACKET: Make a splash with with this biker jacket from Vero Moda. It has a zip closure at the front that makes it convenient to wear. Featuring a solid pattern, it also flaunts a stitch detailing on the shoulders. The fine quality material further lends it a nice finish.
BLACK SOLID WINTER JACKET: This black jacket by Pepe Jeans is both voguish and classy, Featuring interesting stitch detailing, this padded jacket displays high neck, PUMA MEN BLACK PRINTED SPORTY front zip closure and embroidered logo JACKET: This black applique styling on printed sporty jacket, engineered the left. Fashioned in regular fit for plush with Dri-Fit comfort, it has twin technology, has a side pockets for hooded, two utility. Wear it over a pockets, zip T-shirt along with closure, long jeans and sandals. sleeves, straight hem. MEN BLACK SLEEVELESS SWEATER: The sleeveless knitted black sweater with a ribbed V neck, ribbed arm holes and embroidered branding at left chest is by United Colors of Benetton.
CHARCOAL TRENCH JACKET: The charcoal trench jacket teams up perfectly with a pop shift dress at office and over a jumpsuit when you travel. This cosy jacket is by The Label Life.
NAVY STRIPED LONGLINE FRONT OPEN CARDIGAN: The orange and navy-striped front open cardigan by United Colors of Benetton has long sleeves, two pockets and a straight hem.
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INDIA EXOTIC
THREE COUNTRIES IN ONE
With all talk of khichdi being a superfood, can you imagine it being served in Italian style with a hint of Japan? Fine-dining restaurateur and fusion food innovator ZORAWAR KALRA presents to us Dal Chawal Arincini, a clever take on everyday food and plated in style
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INGREDIENTS: Cooked arhar dal: 250 gm o Boiled rice: 100 gm o Ghee: 25 gm o Processed cheese: 50 gm o Fresh coriander: 100 gm o Masala papad: 10 nos o Mix pickle: 25 gm o Mayonnaise: 100 gm o Turmeric: 5 gm o Green chilli: 25 gm o Mint: 25 gm; Onion: 100 gm o Tomato ketchup: 50 gm o Ginger: 25 gm o Tempura flour: 100 gm o Roasted chana dal: 20 gm o Cornflour: 50 gm
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METHOD: o Boil and cook arhar dal with a tempering of cumin and fresh coriander and keep aside. o Boil rice and keep aside. o Heat ghee and temper it with cumin, ginger, turmeric and fresh coriander. o Make a khichdi using this tempered ghee, rice and cooked arhar dal. o Put the khichdi in a bowl, let it cool for 10-15 minutes and grate processed cheese on top of it. o Make a paste of pickle and mix it with mayonnaise to make achaari mayonnaise and keep it aside. o Make a green chutney using coriander, green chilli and mint. Keep it aside. o Grate onion, mix with grated ginger and remove excess water from it. o Once the water is removed, add tomato ketchup to it, make the onion salsa and keep aside in refrigerator. o Mix tempura flour with water, make a smooth batter and keep aside. o Cut masala papad in two-inch squares, heat them individually, roll them and keep them aside. o Heat the remaining papad as well and crush them to form a crumb and mix it with cornflour. o Now make small dumplings of khichdi, dip them in tempura flour batter, roll them in papad crumb and fry till golden brown to make arincini for plating. Spread salsa on the platter. o Place the arincini on the salsa. o Using a piping or a squeezy bottle, lay over achari mayo and green chutney on the individual arincini. Finally, place the rolled papad on each arincini and sprinkle some roasted chana dal on top.
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FACE BOOK
HE THAT HATH NO
BEARD
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So said Shakespeare. No wonder the clean-shaven look has been tossed out the window [1] Wedding bells and stubble: Wedding season is around the corner and women are dressed in their best attire. When it comes to men, the style sutra demands a clean-shaven look. But rock the boat with a stubble, a six-seven inch grown beard that never goes out of fashion. It is just the look that can get compliments galore for men in a dhoti kurta or sherwani. [2] On voyage with Van Dyck look: A Van Dyck is a style of facial hair
named after 17th-century Flemish painter Anthony van Dyck. This specifically consists of any growth of both a moustache and goatee while the hair on cheeks is shaven. While travelling, it is tough to maintain a long, full-grown beard. So why not try the Van Dyck look which is simpler and easier to maintain. [3] Corporate look with goatee beard: For those crunching figures at a corporate office, a goatee incorporating hair on the chin but
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not on cheeks will up the style quotient. The exact nature of the style has varied according to time and culture. So give it a new dimension and pair it with a suit and tie to skyrocket the style meter at work. [4] Tattoo, piercing and balboa: A balboa beard is one without sideburns and is trimmed. And these are best combined with tattoo and piercings that are in trend. So combine the three and rock that biker look.
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NUMBERGAME
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Sanjay Jumaani Numerologist
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COUNT YOUR FATE
NUMBER 1 (Ruled by Sun, people born on the 1st, 10th, 19th and 28th) Your selflessness in trying to accommodate people and helping them might finally get noticed by your seniors. Avoid letting your imagination run wild especially where finances are involved. Be conservative in your confidence and language. Do not rush into things and take your time.
NUMBER 4 (Ruled by Uranus, people born on the 4th, 13th, 22nd and 31st) Restlessness in your mannerisms stresses you out. Rather than getting into the intricacies of the situation, quickly move on to your next step to resolve it. You might be restricted by some people but take a stand and do what you think is best. Money matters might need attention.
NUMBER 7 (Ruled by Neptune, people born on the 7th, 16th and 25th) Take stock of things carefully in office. Avoid taking people for granted and listen to what they are trying to say in between the lines. You might have to rethink your expectations of life and the present scenario. You might have the opportunity to take things to the next level at office or business.
NUMBER 2 (Ruled by Moon, people born on the 2nd, 11th, 20th and 29th) Matters related to the world and its functioning might stifle you and make you feel lost. People at work might try to pull you down but they are unlikely to succeed. This will make you relaxed and can act to your advantage. Ponder over relationships in life and your involvement with people.
NUMBER 5 (Ruled by Mercury, people born on the 5th, 14th and 23rd) Concentrate and consolidate your efforts in professional life. Do not get carried away by the appreciation that you might receive and be careful about what you say. Seniors might give you additional responsibilities that might fulfill your want to learn and grow. A pleasure trip might also be round the corner.
NUMBER 8 (Ruled by Saturn, people born on the 8th, 17th and 26th) You probably might not be in the mood to listen to advice offered by friends or colleagues. This might make you irritable and you might want to shut out everyone. Avoid being too critical and employ patience. Relationships might be a priority and this might give you the confidence required to achieve success.
NUMBER 3 (Ruled by Jupiter, people born on the 3rd, 12th, 21st and 30th) You might be a team player and a tolerant leader. However, you need to understand that for the team’s success certain decisions need to be taken and implemented immediately. Instill a positive spirit in whatever you do or whomever you come across. Financial concerns get resolved by month-end.
NUMBER 6 (Ruled by Venus, people born on the 6th, 15th and 24th) Life might appear like a maze as of now. There might be things you probably know and things you probably are not aware of. However, enjoy this phase as it might give you an insight into future possibilities. Loved ones might give you the strength that is needed at this important juncture of your life.
NUMBER 9 (Ruled by Mars, people born on the 9th, 18th and 27th) The first fortnight might not be favourable, so don’t get into any deals or associations. Personal life might dictate the professional one. Nevertheless, do what you think is best. Things might take a different turn by the time results come in. Success is a blend of good fortune and hard work.
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SIGN-OFF By RINKU GHOSH
SOMETHING SWEET
T
rust the roshogolla, Bengal’s sweet dessert cum in-between indulgence, to work out a truce and rescue its pan-India acceptability. The state’s famous syrupy, cottage cheese sponge ball, as created in 1869 by Nabin Chandra Das, has earned the government’s geographical index after a protracted battle with neighbouring Odisha which claimed to be the place of its origin. Though variants of the roshogolla, generically dismissed as rasgulla, have been around in other states, it is safe to say that the version created by a Bengal confectioner, who was looking to beat his competitors and whose invention was endorsed by the British imperialists, became the popular choice and the first example of successful marketing of an Indian delicacy. With canned exports, it even achieved scale before the other versions. Odisha, which tried to shed the yoke of the Bengal presidency retrospectively through food diplomacy, even claimed divine legitimacy for its rasgulla, claiming its existence since the 12th century in the temple of Lord Jagannath. Some priests invoked the myth of Lord Jagannath creating the sweet to placate an angry goddess Lakshmi, who was upset that he hadn’t taken her along on his annual Rathyatra. The rasgulla reportedly settled the spousal tiff. However, culinary and temple kitchen histories nullify the theory as curdled milk or milk solids, in this case cottage cheese, was not offered to any avatar of Vishnu except as flowing milk, butter or ghee. In fact, it was considered unholy to break down the elements. So the Puri temple, too, may have coopted innovation along the way, particularly as
cottage cheese began to be seen as a great option to deal with excess milk and avoid wastage. And given that Odisha is yet to file a GI application of its variant, it may yet earn its own kind of patented legacy. Like the Bikaneri bhujia or Hyderabadi haleem, which are trademarked but whose imitation and variants are having a merry shelf run. Though politics may have been waged over food, the history of cuisine itself has had no such bitter conflicts. True credit should then be given to the Portuguese who imported the art of splitting milk with citric acid as they loved their cheese. And it is in Portuguese colonial clusters that cottage cheese became rampant in everyday kitchens, including Bengal. Try the Bandel cheese even today. Nabin Chandra Das put an additive that would inflate the micro pores of the cottage cheese balls, bubble them up in hot sugar solution, making them absorbent and buoyant. That was the humble reetha. Those days intellectual property was not about protection but sharing which Das did, educating everybody about his new sweetmeat so that it could become a mass favourite. Cooks from Odisha were known to work at the mansions of the zamindars and boutique kitchens and would have taken their migrant experiences back to their home state too. Other nobles and gentry spread the knowledge of roshogollas as gifts on their inter-state visits. Let’s keep to that spirit when it comes to India’s regional delicacies. And for those hit by smoginduced congestion and fever, just plop in a warm roshogolla to detoxify yourself.
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