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FROM THE EDITOR
Editor-in-Chief CHANDAN MITRA EDITORIAL BOARD Vice-Chairman & Joint Managing Director Amit Goel Chief Executive Officer Abhishek Saxena 09818600128 EDITORIAL Editor-in-Charge Rinku Ghosh Feature Writers Devi Singh Priyanka Joshi Chief Designer Anand Singh Rawat Senior Designer Santosh Kumar Yadav Pre-press Manager Syed Nawab Raza Staff Photographer Pankaj Kumar SALES & MARKETING General Manager Kumar Gurudutta Jha Senior Manager Madhukar Saxena Managers Bharat Singh Sajwan & Prabhakar Pathak Senior Marketing Executive Komal Sharma Media Coordinator Srinija Chakraborty GOVERNMENT & PSU General Manager Tapan Ghosh Assistant Manager Neeta Rai MUMBAI OFFICE General Manager Devendra Adhikari KOLKATA OFFICE Vice President Suzanna Roy General Manager (Circulation) Rajeev Gautam Printed and published by Chandan Mitra for and on behalf of CMYK Printech Ltd, printed at JK Offset Graphics (P) Ltd, B-278, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, New Delhi-110020 and published at 2nd floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi 110002. Editor: Chandan Mitra. Entire Contents Copyright (C) 2006 CMYK Printech Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction or translation in any language in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Requests for permission should be directed to CMYK Printech Ltd. Opinions carried in Exotica are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CMYK Printech Ltd. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the return of unsolicited material or for material lost or damaged in transit. All correspondence should be addressed to CMYK Printech Ltd; 2nd Floor, Patriot House, 3, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Phone: 23718296/40754136 Fax: 23755275 Email: exoticapioneer2016@gmail.com
ENEMY IS WATCHING YOU!
THE
recent incidents in and around Uri in Jammu and Kashmir reminded me of an exciting adventure. Perhaps the most daring of the many car journeys I have undertaken was the one from Delhi to Leh via Manali and back across the Zoji-la Pass which connects the Ladakh Plateau with the Kashmir Valley. This was in 2004, just a few years after the Kargil war and memories of that conflict in those inhospitable heights were still fresh in memory. I say it was a daring journey because just two of us — my wife and I — drove in our Hyundai Terracan over daunting heights, fording fast-flowing snow-fed streams, challenging mountain passes like Tang Lang-la (at a height of 17,582 feet), treacherously narrow roads with serpentine bends, shacking up in tents at Army camps. After spending a few days at Leh mostly visiting historic monasteries, we began the return journey across vast flats flanked on both sides by mountains that sported strange hues, experienced a magnetic hill which our vehicle climbed gradually even when kept in neutral gear. We also went past what locals called a moonscape — a pockmarked patch of greyish clay, which appeared as if it had been formed by meteoric activity. Setting out from Leh in the morning, we reached the outskirts of a small town called Mulbek around mid-day. There I was struck by a tall statue of a standing Buddha carved out of stone in Kushana style, resembling the great Bamyan Budhhas, which have sadly been razed to dust by Taliban philistines. Beyond Mulbek it was a steady climb to Kargil. The town lay at our feet so to speak as we turned a corner on the winding road. In the distance we could see the ranges from which the Pakistanis had launched the assault on Kargil, giving the conflict its name. After crossing the bustling commercial town, we were on the road to Dras, another major sector of the conflict. The road was narrow but spectacularly beautiful henceforth, passing along a river with steep mountains on both sides. It was my wife Shobori who noticed the signboard first. Asking me to stop, she read out the sign which said: “Beware! The Enemy is watching you.” Similar signboards dotted the road, every 100 metres or so. With not a soul in sight and only an occasional lorry whizzing past, it was almost scary to be warned thus. Sighting a neat little alcove I decided to park the car, primarily to relieve myself but also get refreshed with a cup of coffee. We sat on a large boulder while Shobori prepared some coffee. We had carried coffee and milk powder and got our flask periodically refilled with hot water at roadside dhabas, so supplies were not a problem. It was while sipping coffee that we noticed the Enemy. Silhouetted against the setting sun on the watershed of the hill opposite us were several shadowy figures with rifles in hand evidently looking at us fixedly. Just then a passing shepherd stopped by to warn us not to wait long as the place he said was “khatarnak” (dangerous). We acknowledged that the Enemy indeed enjoyed a vantage position and concluding discretion was the better part of valour, resumed our journey towards Dras. The rivulet that had accompanied us all along from Kargil widened out near the plains of Dras. The resultant marshland brimmed with riverine vegetation including radiant lotus flowers and was a sight for sore eyes. In the distance we saw the Tololing peak for regaining which the Indian Army had fought an epic battle. We passed by the martyrs’ memorial at Dras, stopping briefly to pay our homage to the brave men but for whose courage and valour, Dras might have been occupied and the only road connecting India to Ladakh sliced apart.
[CHANDAN MITRA] Editor-in-Chief
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I N S I D E OCTOBER 2016 VOLUME 10 NO 12
[p80] Little Black Book [p17] RJ Malishka: A quick peek into her style file Q&A [p20] Fetch me a dram: Rahul Khanna Hybrid city [p24] Cape fever: Cape town diaries The Being [p36] Who is our mother?: The story of Kolkata’s pandals Night Bash [p45] Party on with tabletops: Break away from playing the traditional cards this Diwali night
[p36]
COVER ART: FESTIVAL BEATS ILLUSTRATION BY SANTOSH KUMAR YADAV
CONTRIBUTORS Kushan Mitra [p90] Hotwheels: America, Truck Yeah! Magandeep Singh [p98] Blithe spirit: Sips and picks Bharat Thakur [p100] Fitness: Get that glow Sri Sri Ravi Shankar [p102] Guruspeak: A journey to the source Sanjay Jumaani [p104] Number game: Count your fate
Festive flavours [p60] What’s on my plate?: Superchefs share some goodies for the festival season Thread tales [p66] For the love of handloom: Get the feel of the nation with these native drapes Italian retreat [p76] Still waters: Lake Como Organic treats [p80] Nature love: Gifting Festive Kitsch [p82] Gems abound: The traditional bazaars still pack a few surprises
[p82]
TOTAL NUMBER OF PAGES 108 INCLUDING COVER
OUR
PARTNER
HOTELS
Send us your feedback at exoticapioneer2016@gmail.com; Facebook: www.facebook.com/Exotica-394686670715776
A friend always goes the extra mile to make you smile.
Bank Aisa Dost Jaisa CIN: L65190MH2004GOI148838
www.idbi.com
IDBI Bank Limited, Regd. Office: IDBI Tower, WTC Complex, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai - 400005. Call: 022 66937000. Call Toll Free: 1800 22 1070 / 1800 200 1947.
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TRAVEL NEWS
A LIVING DREAM
ONE
of the most known hotels in the world — Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur — has been voted the best in Asia and sixth in the world. Its serene courtyards with lily ponds and fountains are simply to die for. Guests can sip cocktails by candle light under a canopy of stars, enjoy heritage walks and shopping trips accompanied by a royal butler, go for spa
treatments or sample authentic Rajput cuisine at the palace restaurants. The other hotels ranking highly in Asia and the Indian sub-continent category are Rambagh Palace, Jaipur, securing 13th place and Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad enjoying the 16th position. The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, was also listed among the top 20 overseas business hotels.
AMAZING MANILA
IT’S
a kaleidoscopic mix of pristine beaches, magnificent mountains, pastoral countryside and exciting and highly developed cities and urban centres. Welcome to Manila, the main entry port to the Philippines — a cosmopolitan and bustling metropolis. Explore Ayala center by walking around its epicenter are Greenbelt Park — with outdoor sculptures or get your culture fix by exploring the city’s notable museums and forts. Track the warren of restaurants and bars where you can get a feel of the vibrant nightlife.
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SUN AND SAND
WHEN
it comes to a holiday destination that can offer a variety of experiences all in one place, look no further than Ras Al Khaimah — the northernmost emirate in UAE. Located less than an hour from the bustling city of Dubai, Ras Al Khaimah offers a more intimate, authentic retreat into the heart of Arabia, with stunning beaches to explore. Discover
7,000 years of culture and a wealth of familyfriendly adventures. Nestled between the Arabian Gulf and Al Hajar mountains, Ras Al Khaimah offers year-round winter sun, crystal clear waters and sandy shores ideal for safaris and nature trails. Visit the man-made Al Marjan island and Al Hamra village — the new and trendy hubs for breathtaking beaches and luxury resorts.
PERFECT MATCH
IT’S
easier than ever to make cruise bookings for travel partners with the launch of ‘Partner Search’ — a new feature which provides travel partners and agencies greater ease while searching for cruise vacations. It’s perfect for checking itineraries allowing for multiple quotations and bookings with different dates, all in one go. Offering premium cruise vacations by Royal Caribbean International, Celebrity Cruises and Azamara Club Cruises — Partner Search is a one-stop travel booking destination for travel partners and agencies. It offers a high degree of flexibility in travel bookings, providing critical details such as cruise itineraries and ports of call. Partner Search is also accessible from mobile phones to help agents book even while they are on the go.
HIGH IN THE HILLS
NOW
you can get an opportunity to own a dream house in Himachal’s ultra-luxurious residential project — Auramah Valley — the first ever helipad equipped property. Live amidst nature with an exclusive helicopter service from anywhere in north India. With no direct flights between Chandigarh and Shimla, the helicopter service comes as a solace. The service at Auramah Valley arranges for a pick and drop from Shimla, Chandigarh and Delhi. Apart from this, the place also offers spa, gymnasium, clubhouse, badminton and squash courts. For people looking for a quick holiday filled with adventure sports like river rafting, hiking and zipping or families looking to invest in a holiday home, Auramah Valley is the place to be.
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ROMANTIC GETAWAY
THE SECRET IS OUT
MANDARIN
has come out with a new way to attract the world’s attention with Helsinki Secret Residence — the base for international social media influencers reporting from Helsinki. It opened its doors at the Aallonkoti apartment hotel in Töölönlahti in 2016. According to the latest media analysis, the programme for international social media influencers has reached 50 million people already. The residents are selected on the basis of their commitment and popularity of their social media channels. So far the residence has hosted bloggers, vloggers and Instagrammers from 16 countries. Each guest gets to stay at the residence upto six nights and is encouraged to report on their experiences.
Oriental, Prague, is offering couples an opportunity to indulge in a Baroque style romantic weekend. Guests booking the Baroque Romance package will enjoy treats that include a horse-drawn carriage ride through the cobbled streets of old Prague while dressed in Baroque costumes. Their deluxe suite will offer romantic treats — a decorative box with two masks and an invitation to a grand Boudoir experience. Over a glass of prosecco, guests will enjoy a delightful transformation through costume, make-up and wigs, to their Baroque novel–like characters followed by an intimate dinner in the hotel’s wine cellar. Package rates start from EUR 3,472 for two nights.
HELSINKI
INDULGENT ESCAPE Singapore Sentosa has upped the ante of its guests’ stay with exclusive Le Club AccorHotels MyResorts benefits. As year-end approaches, Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Resort & Spa offers more reasons to celebrate. Give your loved ones and yourself a well-deserved treat. Escape from the city’s hustle and bustle and go for a pampering retreat in a sanctuary of peace and tranquillity. Guests can receive complimentary exclusive LeClub AccorHotels MyResorts benefits during bookings made till October 31 with any of the resort’s three popular room deals — the Super Advance Saver, Advance Saver and Magnifique Suite.
SOFITEL
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TAIWAN MADE EASY
YOU
can now enjoy the beauty of Taiwan without any hassles. It’s now easier to plan a holiday or MICE event to the country as visas have become more liberalised for Indians. You are now entitled to free Taiwan visa which can be applied online. Once the application has been approved, the applicant has to print out the ROC Travel Authorisation Certificate which must be presented when entering Taiwan.
EQUESTRIAN LOVE
WOLGAN
Valley was made for riding and there’s no better way to explore the region’s beautiful hills, creeks and ridgelines than on horseback. Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley offers a range of horse-riding experiences from an introductory arena or a 90-minute trail ride to a tailored half-day journey in the surrounding valley. The horses at Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley are well-schooled and a pleasure to ride. Each guest will ride a horse suited to their experience and physical ability, carefully matched by an attentive and experienced field guide. The Horse Trail Ride is a shared, small group experience, where the guide chooses a route and pace appropriate to the skill level and confidence of the group, ensuring each rider has an enjoyable and safe experience.
THE DOORS OPEN Palé Hall is now officially open as one of the finest country house hotels in Wales and the UK — the first member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World in Wales. New owners Alan and Angela Harper have lovingly restored the historic house to its former glory, creating a peaceful and luxurious retreat surrounded by the natural beauty of the Welsh valleys on the edge of Snowdonia National Park. The manor house has played host to some of Britain’s most famous figures, including Queen Victoria and Winston Churchill. In its new chapter as a hotel, 18 rooms and suites have been individually designed with individual style and identity.
THE
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These days I’m flaunting Blackfin sunglasses. A good classic pair of Raybans is also an all-time favourite. FAVOURITE HAUNTS OF STYLISH PEOPLE
I’m a huge collector of watches. I love Cartier the most. I have my eye on this particular one from Rolex now.
I love to read suspense, horror and romance. These days I’m hooked to my friend Karishma Attari’s debut novel I See You.
My favourite fragrance is Jo Malone’s Orange Blossom.
My playlist has everything from Seal to DNCE.
RJ MALISHKA is a celebrated radio personality. She has appeared in several reality shows on television and also represented the Indian radio fraternity at the International Radio Festival twice
I really love the Burberry dress I bought from Italy. My prized possession is a diamond ring I got made for myself at the most unlikely time. It always reminds me that we can do better than we think.
I oscillate between super comfort and crazy fashion and I’m great at both. I own Louboutin to a comfy pair of brogues that I wear almost daily.
The last vacation I had was in Bali. The pristine waters, volcanic mountains and diving in the azure seas was simply superb.
EXOTICA [17] OCTOBER 2016
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Q&A
dram Fetch me a
The ever courteous and self-effacing whisky novice turned connoisseur, RAHUL KHANNA plays his charm around in Dufftown, getting a taste of the Speyside single malt whisky. He talks about his crash course on whisky while filming his new project. By UNNATI JOSHI
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So were you ever a whisky lover or have you converted post show? I have always been a wine-drinker but a trip to Scotland turned me into a whisky aficionado. Recently, I went on a whisky trail to Scotland as part of a TV show. It’s a three-part travel show where I learn more about the process of making the brew and its different variants, culture and heritage. We filmed it in the Scottish highlands, mainly in Dufftown, where we visited local distilleries, spoke to the people and the craftsmen who are responsible for making whisky and through this journey, I went from being a whisky novice to an enthusiast. I have to admit I didn’t know much about whisky before this trip. During the course of the visit I feel I gained a lot of insight and knowledge. The show very pertinently is called The Mavericks. Of course, it refers to William Grant but how much of a maverick are you? I don’t know how much of a maverick am I but I
certainly feel that I have done things my own way over the course of my adult life. I hope I have carved a special place for myself within the entertainment industry and perhaps one can say that I am a bit of maverick in that way. With this show you have added yet another feather to your professional journey. From films to theatre to hosting shows and a lot more in between. Do you feel content or there’s hunger to do more? I feel I have been really blessed with how my career started with MTV, one of the most amazing entertainment companies in the world. I was their face for MTV Asia, so that was an incredible first job to have. It is almost like having a Rolls Royce as your first car. I feel I have been really lucky with what has come my way and certainly I enjoy doing different things, and I still continue to find new things to do within the entertainment industry.
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You are someone who epitomises the ‘fine life’ so to speak. What was your reaction when you were roped in for the show? Do you think you were the obvious choice considering your debonair appearance and à la mode lifestyle? I feel everyone in this industry is very lucky because we are constantly being put in new situations. No two days are ever the same here. We travel a lot and we are fortunate to travel with all kinds of people. I think all of that contributes to one’s evolution and making you more open. As actors we are quite lucky to have access to all of these. You call yourself a boutique Bollywood actor. Is there anything you want to change in the industry? I would like to see a little more progress in terms of giving credit to technicians who are not at the level of actors and directors, even though they work hard. I would like to see writers being given more recognition and importance. There should be better safety standards for technicians working on the sets. I would also want the royalty system coming to India. When you work outside India, you come across a very strong actor union, which makes sure every project you do gets some sort of new revenue and the actor gets a share of it. That’s a very transparent process and I would love to see the system implemented in the Indian film industry. You are one of the most dapper men around and a style icon. What’s your style mantra? I feel style is the expression of your personality, it’s the way you choose to present yourself to the world. It’s a way of creatively expressing your point of view. And I think the more true you are to yourself, the better your style is. You should wear what makes you comfortable and what makes you feel good rather than just following some trends or whatever is in vogue. I personally like simple things. I don’t like lot of fuss when it comes to clothes and style. So, I like classic clothes and simple colours. I don’t like prints and embellishments but that’s not to say that my point of view is right, it’s just something that makes me feel good.
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So who do you idolise? I sort of look back to the past for my fashion inspiration. I look back to classic Hollywood actors like Cary Grant, Alain Delon and Paul Newman. I idolise a lot of actors, my dad and others from his generation like Firoz Khan, the real trailblazer who set new standards in the film industry. I idolise a lot of my relatives like my maternal grandfather who is a very polished and charming gentleman. I also idolise some of my friends and a lot of writers. Too long to list. We hear that you are a masterly cook. What’s the one dish you love to prepare? I really enjoy cooking a lot. I can whip up a very wholesome breakfast. I make elaborate omelettes and egg preparations with a variety of side dishes. You have been missing from the mainstream cinema since a long time now. But you are also making up for it with your strong social media presence, especially with your Snapchat account being the most followed.
I joined social media as a bit of an experiment. My friends told me about it and I have a friend who works with the company in America. So, while I was in California once, he gave me a lesson and I thought it would be fun to play around. And it ended up taking a life of its own. I love the format. I actually like all social media platforms. I feel it’s a wonderful way to connect with people who are interested in you on your own terms and it’s nice to have a direct line of access to them. Anyone is free to message me and I try to respond as much as I can. What would you like to say to your fans and followers? I have always said I have the best fans ever because they have really stuck by me. I have so many fans that have really been with me right since I started my career with MTV and they still support me. I know a lot of them by their first names and they have a very positive energy around them. They mean the world to me and I hope we shall be together for many years to come.
EXOTICA [23] OCTOBER 2016
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HYBRID CITY
CAPE FEVER
It offers everything under the sun. From the flaxen beaches to culinary wonders, rollicking nights to the moments spent atop Table Mountain shrouded by clouds. It’s really a rainbow out there, not just cultural. M MADHUSUDAN wallows in the many colours of Cape Town EXOTICA [24] OCTOBER 2016
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‘WELCOME
to the Mother City’, the signage on the wall reads as you walk out of the Cape Town International Airport, the second busiest in South Africa. Instantly, you are curious to know why Cape Town is so nicknamed. You find out there is no single reason behind it. Theories abound but the most common one that stands out is that a local newspaper had way back in the 1930s claimed that Cape Town was the only city in South Africa that could justly call itself a metropolis. The public agreed as much. Since the word metropolis is taken from the Greek derivative of metre or metros meaning mother and polis meaning city, the nickname of “Mother City” thus came into existence. It’s the first of week of September. Officially, winters are over. It’s spring time now. But there is still a nip in the air in this oldest city of South Africa that can occasionally make you shiver, if you are not suitably clothed. Cape Town, as they say, has four weathers in a day. And it rains, 146 days in a year. Neville St Clair — the guide engaged by our
host South African Tourism, greets us with a handshake that culminates with a snapping of fingers. Our group of journos immediately take a liking to the novel gesture, gleefully perfecting it by the end of our three-and-half-day stay here. As we drive past the Blacks’ shacks called Cape Flats, the 42year-old “coloured” Neville recalls memories of the apartheid era. How he along with others “became a man” at 22 years of age after being circumcised and how once an aspiring DJ, had to give all his CDs away. Neville’s sense of humour is at display as he reveals his rapping talent and tells us how he is called ‘Rappenem’ (after American rapper Eminem). But then, Cape Flats also remind you of the perils of climate change as it is in a sandy area not much higher than the sea level and there is concern about the future of the large population. “I talk much and non-stop. You will need to interrupt me if you have a query. If not, I will more than hold fort,” he asserts smilingly as the President’s house passes by. Neville’s anecdotes also have a mention of Michael Jackson who “stayed in Cape Town but couldn’t visit Robben Islands”, where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 long years in prison.
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Azhar figures, not Cronje
WITH
too much cricket back home, one isn’t too enthused about a visit to a cricket stadium at the very first instance. But once we reach the Newlands Cricket Ground that has hosted over 50 test matches and 35 ODIs in the last 127 years of its existence, the reason behind its inclusion in the itinerary gradually sinks in. South Africa takes great pride in its sporting history and infrastructure and sports tourism promotion
ranks high on its agenda. In India, the idea of guided tours to famed cricket stadiums or to the grounds where the Tendulkars, the Dhonis and the Kohlis grew up playing hasn’t germinated yet. The history of Cape Town and international cricket comes together in the story of Newlands Cricket Ground. Perhaps, this is another reason why it is our first stop. The cricket ground is one of the most beautiful in the world, with one of the oldest breweries and the Newlands railway station just adjacent to it even as the Devil’s Peak nearby makes for a majestic view from the stands. We meet Keith, who could well pass off as the official statistician of the Proteas. Records, numbers, dates, names, Keith has them all on his finger tips. We take him for a South African cricket official till he reveals he “conducts the tour” to the stadium. One of the most interesting features of the cricket ground is the club it houses. It has a dance floor too. The club is rented out for birthday parties, even weddings. ‘Bounce Corruption Out of Cricket’ — ICC’s poster at the players’ changing room catches your attention. “It is in every changing room given the incidents of match and spot-fixing,” Keith says and goes on to point out that the name of former SA cricket captain Hansie Cronje, involved in match fixing, doesn’t figure in the ground’s roll of honours. “Azhar does figure though,” he shows as he pinpoints his name.
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Treasures of Cape peninsula
IT’S
a full-day outing wherein you soak into breath-taking views of the magnificent beaches and picturesque coastal villages as you go along the Atlantic Seaboard to Hout Bay via Chapman’s Peak to Cape Point, Cape of Good Hope, Simon’s Town, Fish Hoek and the Boulders Beach Penguins Colony. A small band of local musicians sees you off (and welcomes back too) on a ferry that takes you to the Seal Island in the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a “modest-size” island, less than 6km in the huge False Bay just off Hout outside Cape Town but it is home to “well over 60,000 Cape fur seals.” The waters also have the great white sharks which patrol the area and gorge on these seals. If you are
lucky, you can be witness to a spectacular encounter between the two species. The best way to see a seal’s true abilities is under water when it looks like a comical dog that can fly. Unfortunately, you cannot disembark on the island as it is way too rocky. The island is brown. With the brown bodies of the seals stretching, hauling their clumsy bodies along the rocks, blissfully scratching themselves with their silly hind-flippers, arching their backs like yogis, bellowing at one another, squabbling and mock-biting, with pups yelling for their mothers in unnervingly human voices. They’re all shades of brown, from dark chocolate to mahogany to pale Weimaraner. Seems somewhat metaphorical.
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Chapman’s Peak Drive
THE
curvaceous Chapman’s Peak Drive in Cape Town takes motorists on a 9km winding route from Hout Bay to Noordhoek and is widely regarded as one of the most scenic stretches of road anywhere in the world. This rocky coastal roadway with 114 curves offers numerous points where motorists can safely pull over and savour a panoramic view across the deep-blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the shapely shoreline that meets it. From stunning vantage points, some of which are up to 593 metres above sea level, you can chance upon whales and dolphins frolicking in the ocean below, and baboons curiously observing passing tourists. Popularly called “Chappies,” by Cape Town residents, Chapman’s Peak Drive also forms part of the route for the Cape Argus Cycle Tour and the Two Oceans Marathon.
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nature’s beauty all around. When you see ocean from a vantage point, its sheer vastness takes your breath away. And here, you have not one but two — the Atlantic on the west and the Indian on the east. Just imagine the swirling waters! Baboons abound, reminding us of the beginning of our evolution.
Cape Point Nature Reserve
IF Cape Point
THE
tip of the Cape Peninsula is one of the most beautiful parts of the African continent. Famed for its oceanic views, the lighthouse and the extensive range of flora and fauna, Cape Point’s headland consists of three promontories — Cape of Good Hope, Cape Maclear and Cape Point itself. The cliffs of Cape Point, more than 200 metres above the sea, provide the perfect lookout spot for whales and dolphins. We use the funicular which takes about halfway to the lighthouse, and then huff and puff through the flight of steep steps up to reach to the top. The more enterprising ones walk up the thousand of stairs. But once there, it’s more than worth all your efforts as you stand captivated by
flora and fauna interest you, this is a must-visit. A part of the Cape Floral Kingdom — a Unesco world heritage site — the reserve also forms a popular part of the Table Mountain National Park. It can be explored by several means from hiking trails to helicopter rides. The diversity, density and endemism of the indigenous flora here is among the world’s highest — approximately 1,100 indigenous plant species, some of which occur nowhere else on Earth. You can spot some 250 species of birds, including sea birds, eagles, Cape sugarbirds and sunbirds, as well as endangered African black oystercatchers. Mammal species found include antelope such as klipspringer, steenbok and eland, as well as Cape mountain zebra and the peninsula’s endemic Chacma baboons. Shy predators such as caracal and small-spotted genet patrol the crags while Cape clawless otters frolic in rock pools. If you are fortunate, you may even catch sight of the very rare Table Mountain ghost frog or Cape chirping frog.
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Cape of Good Hope
DOWNHILL
is “the most southwestern point of the African continent.” The proclamation on the signboard at Cape of Good Hope sounds exciting as you join a queue wherein people await their turn to get clicked behind the signage for memories’ sake. Situated at the junction of two of earth’s most contrasting water masses — the cold Benguela current on the West Coast and the warm Agulhas on the East Coast — the perfect setting for lovers to propose to the love of their lives. Though the 15th century colonialists had a tough time negotiating its turbulent waters, it was christened so perhaps as an ode to the fortunes it opened for the Western world in the east and the far-east.
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Boulders Beach Penguins
BY
being here, we now stand to be counted among the nearly 60,000 visitors who flock to Simon’s Town every year to photograph and watch the famous Boulders Beach penguins. The story of this penguin colony in Cape Town started in 1983 when a pair was spotted on Foxy Beach at Boulders. The birds came to False Bay from Dyer Island. At the time, False Bay was closed to commercial fishing, which meant the newcomers had abundant food and breeding sites.
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Hout Bay
A
quaint coastal town about half-an-hour’s drive from Cape Town — Hout Bay gets its name from the Afrikaans houtbaai, meaning “wood bay.” The area supplied the Dutch colony with wood during the 1650s that was used to build Cape Town. Hout Bay is now a tourist hotspot and one of the busiest harbours in the Western Cape with a well-established tuna, snoek and crayfish industry. It’s said that Hout Bay produces the best fish and chips around. Mariner’s Wharf being the best place for fish and chips — offering great views of the beach and the surrounding mountains.
The African penguin population at Boulders thus soared. However, cars, people and competition for breeding sites have led the penguins to try nest in unsafe environments, leaving their nests exposed to predation and the elements. Climate change has also affected fish stocks while increased severe weather incidences have depleted penguin chick numbers. The penguins are particularly vulnerable to humans. From the time of the first Dutch settlement at the Cape in 1652, penguins were an
invaluable addition to the settlers’ food supply. Moreover, as a result of oil spills and declining food resources, African penguin numbers continued to decrease dramatically since. The Boulders Coastal Park management has made efforts to curb the continued loss of chicks, and provide a safe breeding environment. It has introduced artificial nesting boxes. There is now hope that such conservation initiatives could see these precious penguins survive to swim another day.
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Table Mountain
IT’S
a clear sky on a new day and we are told we could be lucky enough to have a majestic view from atop undoubtedly South Africa’s most famous landmark. Table Mountain made it to the list of the new seven wonders in 2012 amid much celebrations and jubilation on Cape Town streets. It’s the only wonder located in an urban area, and hence, is highly accessible. Incidentally, two wars halted the plans for a transport system for going atop the Table Mountain. Towards the end of the 18th century, plans for the introduction of a rack railway to the top could not be implemented due to the First Anglo-Boer War of 1880. And then again, when a funicular railway was to be implemented, World War I broke out. The engineering marvel, the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway, thereafter, was finally put in place and is functional since 1929 without a single accident so far. The 18-tonne cableway has been upgraded three times — in 1958, 1974 and, more recently, in 1997, when the cars with revolving floors, called Rotairs, were introduced. Cable cars similar to the ones used at Table Mountain are in use at Titlis in Switzerland and Palm Springs in the United States. The cars can carry 65 people at a time.
Going up as also coming down is an experience in itself. Consisting of layers of Table Mountain sandstone and Cape granite formed by volcanic and glacial action 520 million years ago, Table Mountain is at least six times older than the Himalayas, making it one of the oldest mountains in the world. On a sunny day with clear visibility, you can view all the prominent places of Cape Town from the Table Mountain like Clifton Beach, Lion’s Head, Robben Island, Cape Town Stadium and V&A Waterfront among others. The Cape Floral Kingdom is the smallest of the world’s six plant kingdoms but the richest for its size with over 8,500 distinct species, many of which grow nowhere else. Key to the diversity of the floral kingdom found throughout the peninsula is the range of animal and insect species that have developed unique partnerships with the plants. The most commonly seen animals are the Rock Hyrax (or Dassie) but it is the smaller species such as the sunbirds and sugarbirds, who perform a vital role in pollinating the range of flowering plants the mountain is so well known for. The Dassie Walk offering spectacular views of north, west and south, the Agama Walk providing spectacular 360 degree views of Cape
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Town and Cape Peninsula; the Klipspringer Walk offering wonderful views, running along the plateau edge to above the Platteklip Gorge. We did almost all the walks. For smokers, there’s the Twelve Apostles, the name not quite allowing a guilt-free experience.
What keeps you going
A
heavy, sumptuous breakfast at the Southern Sun Waterfront Hotel keeps you going till noon when you are spoilt for choice for lunch at the innumerable eateries across Cape Town including Bhandaris which serves Indian food. After a hectic day of sight-seeing, evenings in Cape Town offer you many options to unwind. The Richard’s Supper Stage and Bistro stages a musical
dinner over Kaapse Stories from The Mother City that are a tribute to the spirit and culture of the diverse people of Cape Town who lived at the foot of the Table Mountain in the area known as District 6. It is told through the stories of the Kleinjies family by Grandpa Joe, fondly called Pa Joe. You can even head to the Gold Restaurant for an African 14-course menu in a safari lodge setting with courtyard, live drumming and Mali puppets. For those interested in some high-end options, you have the magnificent One&Only Cape Town, the upmarket waterfront hotel which boasts of a lagoon and yacht where weddings are organised. Since South Africa has been facing drought for the last few years, water conservation is on high priority. Bottled still water needs to be asked for at hotels and restaurants. Else, you can simply open the tap and have your fill. Tap water here is potable, yet another feather in South Africa’s cap. Enough to sleep on. But if you are wide-eyed still, catch the block party culture with night walks along art promenades, sampling nouvelle cuisine bent on grabbing Michelin eyeballs and drinking more than just wine. Yes, it has a wide array of craft beer and gin. Certainly the “mother” of all experiences.
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ILLUSTRATION: NIRJHAR SOM
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THE BEING
our
Who is
Mother? In a digitally mastered world, with the coldness of android seeping into our lives, artistes are attempting to answer a basic question. Where do we come from? Where does the cosmic energy or shakti, as manifested by the sacred feminine, originate? SAUGAR SENGUPTA finds the answers at Kolkata’s theme pandals. Run through this before stepping out. Photos by SOURAV KUMAR SARKAR
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THERE’S a mystic connection between the Durga pujas and Kolkata. For five days, metaphorically speaking, heaven is on earth. Kolkatans stretch themselves to their maximum limit to become the best they can be. So the city becomes an open exhibit of the best artistic exposition, native talent, mammoth show fests, luscious food feasts and all that the imagination can give shape to. The thematic pandals are now a major tourist draw and have benchmarked the pujas as a global fiesta. They beat many open-air art fairs in terms of scale and creativity. So what’s new this year? In a digitally mastered world, with the coldness of android seeping into our lives, artistes are attempting to answer a basic question. Where do we come from? Where does the cosmic energy or shakti, as manifested by the sacred feminine originate? So this time there is a Hollywood-style prequel treatment to the pujas.
That’s how we learnt that in cosmic times, when the universe was pervaded by darkness, vacuum and water (a sort of pre-big bang universe), a rotting corpse floated up at the abode of Brahma, the Creator of beings. He almost choked. It then washed up to Vishnuloka where the Lord of Sustenance was enjoying his eternal slumber. He could not bear the odour and simply fled. The cadaver then found its way to Shivaloka to find the Lord of Destruction in meditation. Still Shiva picked up the body with great affection and tended to it. Then Maha Prakriti or Maha Shakti, the great Mother of Creation, sprung from it at once. Content at his kind touch, she blessed the Lord with these words: “I am pleased with you and will soon descend in human shape as your significant other.” Parvati, the wife of Shiva, who later assumed the form of Durga and then Kali, is no different from Maha Shakti or the great repository of endless energy of which the Universe is but a microscopic fraction.
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PURANIC TALES
NOT
for nothing is Kolkata called India’s cultural capital as puja organisers have decided to revive and celebrate stories from our Puranas. Sample this: One has heard of Vishnu or the Buddha with a thousand hands. Even a mortal like Katavirya Arjuna, the king of Haihayas, and a great devotee of Lord Dattatreya, was endowed with thousand hands. But for the first time, organisers of Deshapriya Park Durga Puja committee have conceived of a Sahastrabahu Durga. Artist Mintu Pal, who last year created his sculptural masterpiece of a 88-ft Durga, has attempted this marvel of intricacy. The Mother has been positioned inside a dome-shaped “universe,” which is a perfect replica of a cosmos. You have to enter this through the mighty yawn of a demon. According to the Puranas, the gods, tormented by Mahisasura, sought help from the holy trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwara. So enraged were they that they combined their energies which could only be held by Parvati, herself the incarnation of Adi Shakti and the wife of Shiva. As soon the forces combined in her, a bright light resembling millions of suns flashed and there appeared a woman with a thousand hands. Perhaps this was the mythical
equivalent of the big bang, an earth-shattering echo that even rattled the throne of Mahisasura. But life is not all about myths. Which is why organisers have contemporised Mahisasura as one embodying evils like terrorism and pollution. “The Mother’s thousand hands will ultimately deliver us from all vices,” says organiser Sudipta Kumar an organiser. Mitali Sangha of Garia is paying a tribute to Nava Durga or nine manifestations of the Devi. “It is a small effort to summon up Puranic tales that are fast vanishing from our cyber-cued minds,” says Shankar Pramanik, the joint secretary of the club. Here Goddess Mahamaya is seen as the nidraswarup (sleepy illusion) of Vishnu, who is woken up to destroy two demons, Madhu and Kaitav, who were planning to assassinate Brahma. As the fierce and inconclusive battle threatened to go beyond 5,000 years, the divine mother advised Vishnu to bless them with a boon of their own choosing. The proud demons readily agreed. When the lord asked them if they wanted to die at his altar for deliverance, they agreed but said the spot should be free of water, aware that the earth would not qualify. The lord then simply
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expanded his body and killed them on his thighs to save the Universe. Another interesting manifestation is Skanda Mata or the mother of Lord Kartikeya, who is also worshipped as Murugan in the southern parts of India. She is worshipped with Kartikeya on her lap. The three-eyed Parameshwari, with her ten hands, is another form of Durga, shown slaying three demons — Ugrarya, Ugravirya and Mahahanu — at once. You marvel at the homework done by the organisers when one of them describes her Kushmanda form. “Creation happened when she let out a gentle smile, hence the name of Kushmanda,” says he. In Bhadrakali form, described in Markandeya Purana, the Mother is no different from Durga save her 16 hands one of which pierces Mahisasura with the trident. But it is as Kalaratri, who is as dark as darkness, that the Devi instills fear and awe. Wearing a garland of vajra or lightning, the artist has been able to make her terrifying and kind in one stroke. Chandika is the final form with eight hands.
BORN OF THE SOIL
THE
neighbouring Tridhara Sanmilani has brought alive a tribal Durga Puja. “It is not actually a replica but an artist’s imagination, which is quite close to reality,” says Gauranga Kuilla, a national award winner. Huge buffalo heads — each about 10 feet high — dominate the top of the pandal. Smaller buffalo skulls — all original and painstakingly procured from far and across — numbering about 150 are fixed atop blazing bamboo poles fitted with mashals or torches. “We have used more than 1,500 horns and numerous small birds made of green coconut leaves, all of which are unique to tribal culture,” says Kuilla. The harmonising sound and lights gently transport you to the forest and will awaken your primal core.
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MADE IN HEAVEN
THE
Bosepukur Sitalamandir celebrates the theme of marriage to send out a social message. “At a time when marital intolerance and broken homes have become the order of the day, we have tried to depict the virtues of the social custom through a series of divine weddings: Shiva’s with Sati and Parvati, Rama’s with Sita and Brahma’s with Savitri,” says an organiser. To drive home the theme, the organisers have used all wedding essentials to do up their pandal. “We have used head gear of the bride and groom, paddy seeds, pitchers, bangles, vermillion box and so to construct our pandal,” he adds. Weddings are always good business, even a themed display of one.
INTROSPECTION
AT
Dum Dum Park, some 35 km north, the organisers have “tried to look within” appropriately terming their theme as darshan. You have to enter the pandal through the space between two eyes or the third eye to be precise. This signifies the perception of inner self through meditation. The inside resembles the cavernous folds of the brain, the mindspace as it were, which is also the Garbha Griha or sanctum sanctorum of the goddess.
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SOUVENIR STYLE
IF
you miss the yellow ambassador taxi, a fast depleting species in the city, just head to Beliaghata in the east. The 40-feet high pandal has been designed to look like a highway with the taxis lined up in a manner to induce an illusion that they are speeding past you. Into oblivion. “We have used 250 taxi doors, silencer pipes, steering wheels and headlights from vehicles which are more than 15 years old to decorate the interiors,� says artist Shib Shankar Das. Last year, the Jatra Suru Sangha of Garia had recreated another
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colonial relic, the tram. This year they want to focus on recycling of materials. “We call the theme retrieval,” says Shankar, an organiser, adding how waste products from daily use like shells, wood peels, coconut-heads, jute stick, peepal leaves and many such products have been used to give shape to the pandal. “Through our theme we have tried to depict pollution as the real devil that comes through greed and lust and are using all eco-friendly products. No colour has been used,” he says.
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STUDIO CENTRAL
TOWARDS
northeaster n Kolkata, at Ahiritola, the organisers have brought alive an artist’s studio. “The traditional culture is fast giving way to the modern-day corporate world. This is our creative hub, where we are reinterpreting the mother with mixed media, be it wood, metal, fibre or canvas,” says organiser Soumen Sil. Down south again at Badamtala, Ashar Sangha has used brick chips as the prime material to create the interiors of the pandal. The idol here underscores the superiority of the supreme Mother over planetary motions. “Her blessings can deliver you from the pains inflicted by the planets or what you call zodiac,” says Anirban Das, the artist. “We have taken the help of structural engineers, architects and theme artists to construct this pandal,” says Sandip. But he has one regret. “Despite our hardest of efforts, the Durga Puja, that witnesses perhaps the largest day-night congregations on earth for five days, is not in the list of ten biggest international carnivals.” With the honest commitment of its artistes, the goddess might just grant joy to the city.
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NIGHT BASH
PARTY
ON WITH
TABLETOPS Break away from playing the traditional cards this Diwali night. By JIGYASU JOSHI
WITH
Diwali round the corner, you might be splitting your hair thinking new ways to make the festive night special. The childhood good cheer spent playing tambola definitely has no place in our plans. Also, playing cards are passé. So what really should we look for this Diwali? How about some games more enjoyable than those usual sets of Teen Patti or Poker? How about some exciting board games for the family? Board games have been subtly taking over the table for quite some time now. Aside from the usual suspects like Scotland Yard and Monopoly, there are
other cool games out there. “This trend is new. People earlier used to play just cards but now they are going for interesting board games,” says Rishabh Shah, founder, Blahgames.com, an online store for buying international board games. Experiencing the new wave of preferences, he adds, “As the festive season comes near, we see a rise in the demand.” A wide spectrum of board games now exists, ranging from trading and resource management like Settlers of Catan, to complex role-playing games such as Dungeons and Dragons. “We have a good demand for Settlers of Catan. It’s the most popular game all over the world and is an involved
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option for a fun-filled festive night,” he suggests. There has been a seismic shift on the board-game scene of late, with indie inventors and their brilliant creations offering the type of gaming experiences the mainstream toy companies wouldn’t have even thought of. And, it’s not just the international tabletop games as an option. Imagine contenders like Haath Party and Kamal Party vying across a board where careful strategy and the throw of the dice determines the winner with the maximum number of seats. Confused? Well, marrying India’s fascination with politics with adult board games is how the desis are hoping to make a mark in a market monopolised by the global classics. “Honestly, I wasn’t thinking about elections but politics was surely on my mind,” informs Sreekanth Bohra, who invented the game. Giving a global perspective, Sreekanth adds, “In Europe, board gaming is a family activity, whereas the concept of board game cafes originated in South Korea and spread to Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and then China, where it has caught on the most. Currently, Canada’s Snakes and Lattes Board Games Cafe is the best in the world with over 5,000 games. You just have to pay an entry fee for the day and then play for as long as you wish. In some other countries the trend of board games
picked up in universities because foreign students and professionals needed spaces to bond and do something meaningful.” Hosting board game nights on Diwali at his residence in Pune since last four years, Kamanth Pangaonkar says, “The culture of online gaming in India has surely surged and board games are basically adaptations of online ones, they have similar rules. I thought instead of sitting in front of a screen and playing with random strangers, I can enjoy it with my friends and family and have the same fun.” The social aspect and the feel of community are intrinsically woven into the very fabric of playing board games. “In the past few years we have seen people coming to us asking for adult
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board games. It’s not a kiddie thing anymore,” says Vikas Khurrana, owner, Game Point store. “We haven’t seen the high purchasing of tabletop games during any festival but Diwali. It is usually that time of the year when we have more people coming in for getting a piece. I wonder where all the card gamers have gone,” jokes Vikas. However, given the day and age, hosting just a board game Diwali night isn’t enough. People are either crowding over a plate of fish and chips or huddling around a makeshift bar. In the capital some pubs are offering drinking tabletop games on request but that might leave a hole in your
pocket. “People have started looking for innovative ways to entertain their guests and that’s where drinking games have come in. These make parties more fun, act as a great ice-breaker and ensure you go back home with hilariously crazy memories. “They are better than those high priced pubs,” says Surbhi Singh, who has arranged many Diwali house parties with a range of drinking board games. But hold on, if you’re a non-drinker, fret not! Who said you couldn’t enjoy the games with just a lemonade? That way, no one feels left out. This time, it all boils down to sitting at a table.
Here’s a list of board games you can indulge in for having a gala time: Settlers of Catan Dungeons and Dragons Dixit Journey Carcassonne Cash n Guns
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FESTIVAL SPIRIT
MANY MINDS, MANY SHRINES Dussehra celebrations pan-India have their own significance and customs. EXOTICA does a quick spin
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KULLU
The chariot run
KULLU
or Kullantpita marks the end of the habitable world. Beyond this rises the forbidden heights of the Great Himalayas. Perhaps that’s the reason why the Dussehra celebrations here are unique, for it is indeed the last stepping stone to heaven. While the celebrations wind up with Vijaya Dashami in the rest of the country, the chariots of Lord Raghunath roll into Kullu at the Dhalpur Maidan. Even as effigies of Ravana, Meghnath and
Kumbhkaran are burnt to celebrate the victory of good over evil, in Kullu dry shrubs and bushes are burnt to depict the burning of Lanka. Kullu Dussehra is indeed the amalgamation of the history, tradition and culture of the valley. The festival celebrated just before winter has its own economics. With increased purchasing power after spending months in farms and fruit orchards, locals use the festivities to prepare for winter, with heavy shopping of daily-use items and woollen clothing. More than 500 stalls of traditional items and delicious eateries come up
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during the week-long celebrations. Such has been its scale over the years that the Kullu Dussehra has now become a global village fair. The local steamed delicacy called sidhu is now an international favourite. While exotica finds expression in the Kullu brand of shawls, quilts, caps, mufflers, Tibetan carpets and thanka paintings, traditional dishes are laid out easily with Tibetan dumplings and noodle soups, quite reminiscent of the bazaars on the old Silk Route. Official history records the first Dussehra celebration during the rule of Raja Jagat Singh (1637-1675). As the stories go, the puja was born out of his attempt to atone for his sins. Apparently, his courtiers told him about a Brahmin, Durga Dutt of Tipri village, who was said to be in possession of a bowl of pearls, indicating questionable behaviour. The king threatened to hang him if he did not hand over the riches to the royal coffers. The poor
Brahmin, who couldn’t accept the stigma of being called a thief, cursed the king, set his house on fire and immolated himself. A repentant king then got the idol of Lord Raghunath, or Rama, from the Tretnath temple at Ayodhya and began worshipping it. He even dedicated his throne to the Lord once the curse wore off. Around mid-October, he would symbolically invite all the 365 gods and goddesses of the valley to Dhalpur to perform a yagna. The puja begins with an invocation to Goddess Hadimba of Manali, the patron deity of the Kullu royals. The idol is carried to the palace, where the royal family awaits her blessings. She is then taken to Dhalpur in a chariot alongside the decorated idol of Lord Raghunath. The divine procession begins only after receiving a signal from Mata Bhekhli from atop the Bhuvaneshwari hill. Raja Maheshwar Singh, the scion of the royal
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family of Raja Jagat Singh, who also rides his royal chariot during the procession, says, “We are trying to keep our family tradition and customs alive in every possible way. I feel the Dussehra celebrations are only getting better with a large number of tourists pouring in from all over the world.” Next, the ratha (chariot) is pulled by devotees with ropes to a spot across the Dhalpur ground, where it stays for the next six days. The male members of the family leave the palace and stay on the Dussehra grounds. More than 200 gods and goddesses of different villages from Mandi to Manali mounted on colourful palanquins participate in this procession. If you look from far, you can only see the decorated crowns of the idols through the thick blanket of the gathering. You will feel as if you are standing in front of the doors of heaven amid the thunderous ambience and the sound of bugles and dhols. On the festival’s sixth day, mohalla, the assembly of gods takes place. It is an impressive and rare sight to see the multi-hued palanquins of the gods dancing around the camp of Lord
Raghunath, with locals performing the traditional dance. On the last day, the ratha is again pulled to the banks of the river Beas, where a pile of thorn bushes is set on fire to depict the burning of Lanka. Animals are sacrificed and the chariot is brought back to its original place, from where the Lord is taken to the temple in Raghunathpur, marking an end to the festivities. — Manohar Lal
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MYSORE
Tusker leads the way OCTOBER
brings life into Mysore through the nine-day Navratri festival known as Dasara. Thousands throng to the city. Many religious and cultural activities atop the Chamundi Hill, a symbol of Mysore, add to the glitter. The 100-year-old illuminated palace is the main attraction, apart from the golden howdah and other artefacts. According to legend, the goddess Chamundeshwari, a reincarnation of Durga, consort of Lord Shiva, vanquished the demon Mahishasura after 10 days of fierce battle. The last day is celebrated as Vijaya Dashami (day of victory). On this day, the Dasara celebrations
conclude with the jumboo savari, a procession of 12 caparisoned elephants with the lead tusker carrying the idol of Chamundeshwari placed in the 750 kg golden howdah. This idol is worshipped by the royal couple before it is taken around in a procession that culminates at Bannimantap, where the banni tree is worshipped. The festivities recreate the aura of the glorious Vijayanagara empire and the Wodeyar dynasty that ruled Mysore for over 300 years. During Navratri, Mysore is a beehive of cultural activities — music concerts, film shows, dance performances, wrestling and several other events. — Kestur Vasuki
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AHMEDABAD
Changing tunes “WHERE
is the party tonight?” Everywhere, would be Gujarat’s answer this month. It is Navratri, when the entire state slips into one big party — in open plots, housing societies, halls, clubs and every corner possible. Garba, the spirited dancing that marks this festival, goes on for nine nights, during which Gujaratis rejoice in a riot of colours and a stream of festive music. Navratri, which begins on the first night after the New Moon during the Indian month of Ashwin, celebrates the Mother Goddess, an incarnation of the demon-slaying deity Durga. Thus devotion merges with revelry, as worshippers dance around the idol of the goddess, which serves as a sanctum sanctorum, or garbha griha, for the people. It is from this that the word “Garba” is derived. The dance is traditionally performed as a mark of obeisance to the Mother Goddess Shakti, who signifies the victory of
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good over evil — the very theme of Dussehra, celebrated right after the nine nights of Navratri. In the earlier days, women used to dance with seven to 12 pots delicately balanced on their heads; some even carried an idol of the goddess in a wooden temple-like structure, locally called phulonwalan. However, modern times have seen such elaborate rituals dwindle, and at most places nowadays it is a simple photo of the goddess with a lamp in front that is used. Navratri festivities traditionally begin every night with an aarti of the goddess, but the young generation nowadays prefers to begin with the dance. Though the rituals associated with the festival may have lost a lot of their strictness, the dress code for Garba largely remains the same, with the addition of a few modern embellishments. The dress traditionally consists of a ghagra, a long, flowing skirt, the choli, or the blouse, and the odhni, or the scarf, which doubles as headgear for the women. As the dancers move to the beat of the music, the bright colours of their dresses and the embellishments reflect an ecstatic mood that peaks as the night progresses. However, the dancing is not
as easy as it sounds. More than just going around the goddess’ idol in circles, it is a complex affair of timing, calculation and coordination. The most basic style, meant for beginners, is the dodhiya or the one-and-a-half-step Garba. This involves going forward one-and-a-half steps, then turning a half-circle, and then going forward another step before turning a full circle. There are also subtle differences in rhythm, or taal, as the steps are punctuated by quick claps by the dancers, signalling the beginning of the next sequence around the idol. Thus the Garba dancers need to be alert about whether they are performing a bey-taali (two claps) or a tran-taali (three claps) number. Otherwise, there are chances of the synchronisation going awry. Such complexities in rhythm and synchronisation have led to a mushrooming of training schools about two months before every Navratri. “There are very few people who follow traditional steps nowadays,” says an elderly Gujarati woman. “Even the music has changed. Bollywood singers and other musicians have taken over Navratri and tradition has taken a back seat.” The elderly also feel that the younger generation takes too much liberty with the dress code. While the basic outfit of the ghagra, choli and odhni remains the same, the backless and low-neck choli designs that most young women prefer nowadays go against the traditional sentiment of the festivities, they say. Moreover, rather than just the two or three sets of dresses that women earlier would usually get made for the festival, youngsters today insist on new dresses for each day of Navratri, making the festival an exorbitant affair. With changing times and attitudes, Garba, too, has seen a shift in spirit. “Dancing during Navratri used to be a community affair, to be enjoyed with family and friends,” said Achyut Yagnik, a social scientist. “Today it has morphed into a commercial arrangement, where you see sponsors selling entry tickets to Garba venues.” “The younger generation seeks fun and glamour during the nine nights of Navratri. This has made the festival a mere marketing tool in the hands of corporates,” a local editor said.
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CHENNAI
A doll’s house COME
October and every household in Tamil Nadu stacks up rows and rows of dolls of various shapes and sizes. After a few stunned minutes, it takes a local to decode the mystery. These dolls or Bommai Kolu represent gods, people, animals, environment, community, vegetables and fruits. Stories from the great epics and everyday life are retold through this unique display. It is a document of our inspiration and life on earth and commemorates the Mother Goddess. Each house maintains a collection of dolls that is placed on wooden stools and benches. The total number must add up to an odd number. While people in North India celebrate Navratri, nine days of song and dance in praise of Goddess Durga, who wiped out the demon Mahishasur in a long-drawn war representing the victory of good over evil, for women in Tamil Nadu it is time for worshipping womanhood. The noted Indologist Dr Nanditha Krishna, Bhooma Narayanan, the retired corporate executive in Tiruchy, and Latha Ravikumar, a school teacher and homemaker, all make it a point to perform the morning pujas for the goddesses Durga, Lakshmi and Saraswati, lasting one to two hours through the nine days. In the evenings, it’s show time as friends and acquaintances come calling to see the aesthetically arranged Bommai Kolu. They are given prasad (the offering made to the gods that day), kumkum (a ceremonial red powder used by women) and a small bag of gifts. In the evenings, a kuthuvilakku (small lamp) is lit in the middle of a decorated kolam (rangoli), before the Kolu and devotional hymns and shlokas are chanted. After performing the puja, the food items that have been prepared are offered to the goddesses. “It is the worship of the primordial energy as veeryam [heroism] represented by Durga, dhanam [wealth] by Lakshmi and vidya [learning] by Saraswati,” says Dr Nanditha Krishna, honorary director of CP Rama Swami Aiyer Centre For Environmental Education. The first three days of festivities are dedicated to Goddess Durga, the next three to Lakshmi and the last lap to Saraswati.
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The ninth day is observed as Ayudha Puja, when Goddess Saraswati is worshipped in the form of books, musical instruments and so on. On the 10th day (Vijaya Dashami), the coronation of Rama is performed with the reading of the Ramayana. On this day, children are initiated into the world of learning (vidya arambam). It is considered an auspicious day for new ventures. “Before the dolls are installed, Goddess Durga is invoked and the kolu is not disturbed till the ninth day. During this period, no one is allowed to cut cloth. Groups of girls visit each others’ houses to view the kolu and sing songs in praise of the goddess. At Meenakshi Amman temple, Madurai, and Kapalishvarar temple, Mylapore, grand kolu displays are open to all. Each household vies with the other in displaying its unique, distinct and exotic collection of dolls. Initially, we used dolls carved out of clay and mud. But nowadays they are made of ceramic and porcelain,” says Dr Nanditha. The placing of the dolls is a very important part of the celebrations. At the centre is the kalasham, a pot filled with water, five mango leaves pointing outwards and a coconut placed on top of the leaves. This is a symbol of auspiciousness. The kalasham is placed on a plate and on either side are kept toys consisting of vegetables or fruits. This represents the very base of all existence. On the next level are steps made of animals and birds, both wild and
domestic. The third level showcases people and their daily activities, such as students reading a book, labourers working in the field and women washing clothes. After exhausting bhuloka — earthly beings and their activities — comes devaloka and here Ganesha is always central. Surrounding him are sons and daughters of gods such as Hanuman, Kartikeya and the 10 avatars. The next level is for Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. Finally come the three goddesses — Lakshmi and Saraswati flank Durga, who is at the centre. People at times innovate with the steps, either increasing their number to nine or reducing it to five. Surrounding the steps, children create scenes of parks, zoos, forests, villages, cities and airports, making it an occasion where creativity is encouraged. “The mornings are reserved for pujas by the lady of the house. She propitiates the goddesses and prays for the welfare of the family. In the evenings, friends and young girls come calling. We all sit together and sing devotional songs,” Bhooma says. These visits and pujas are also an opportunity for young women to debut in society. Gifts given to guests have a lot of importance, for which people prepare weeks in advance. “There was a time when gift packets consisted of coconut, sindoor [vermillion], betel leaves, sweets and a blouse piece. But now you can gift anything and everything you wish to,” Latha says. — Kumar Chellappan
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KOCHI
A world of letters IN
a not-so remote past in Kerala, life was intrinsically connected to myths, legends and fairy tales that found expression in a celebration every month. Navaratri here is the sacred celebration of knowledge. The tenth day of the Navaratri festival, in this part of the world, is seen as the most auspicious day to start anything that is worthy of human life and world, especially the art of learning. Therefore, the event is called vidyarambham. And what is the greatest disseminator of wisdom than books which are worshipped as a tribute to goddess Saraswati. The books are arranged at the altar from the eighth day of Navratri. Musicians place their musical instruments for the ritual. From that moment, nobody touches or reads anything written or printed. On the morning of Navaratri, children and adults visit the temples or homes where the books are kept for puja and sit through the rituals conducted by priests. The following morning – on Vijayadashami day – people collect their books
which are believed to have been blessed by goddess Saraswati. This ritual is the longest followed by prasad distribution. Then one has to open one of the books and read any page, metaphorically starting a year of learning. But the most magnificent part of the festival is the vidyarambham itself – initiation of tiny tots into the world of letters and knowledge. This can be done even at homes but it is mostly done in temples, especially those dedicated to Goddess Saraswati, and cultural centres like birthplaces or great men and women of literature. The most famous centres where vidyarambham is held are the Panachikkad temple in Kottayam, the Thiruvullakkavu shrine in Thrissur, Thunchan Parambu, the place blessed by Thunchath Ezhuthachchan, known as the father of Malayalam language, in Tirur, Malappuram, the Kalakkathu Bhavanam, the house of poet Kunchan Nambiar and so on. Still, the heaviest rush for vidyarambham is seen at the Mookambika temple at Kollur near Mangalore, Karnataka. The initiator of the child into the world of leaning could be the temple priest or noted literatteurs and cultural personalities. If the ritual is being done at home, the initiator could be the child’s uncle. The initiator would first use the traditional golden narayam, a pointed golden pen, or a gold finger-ring to write the words Om Hari Shree Ganapathaye Nama… (prayer to Lord Ganesha for removing all obstacles in the path of learning) on the tongue of the child. This ritual is to propitiate Goddess Saraswati. Then the initiator makes the child write the same words with his/her index finger in a pile of rice placed on a golden or silver plate as a symbol of starting the process of accumulating knowledge. In the next step, the initiator makes the child write the same words in sand symbolising his/her entry into the practice of learning. Vidyarambham is part of the Hindu life in Kerala but in the most literate state in the country, which takes pride in its existence as a secular society where cultural assimilation is a great way of social life, people of other religions also take part. — V R Jayaraj
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FESTIVE TINT
right Prep up for the festive season with these tips
THE
concept to remember this season is minimalism, be it a contemporary or a traditional look. It’s all about being natural and amplifying your best features. Leave all the drama for your eyes and keep the rest of the look simple, adorning the right lip colour. Dusky beauties, do not opt for lighter tone foundation to look fairer as it will ashen up your face. Just celebrate your skin tone and shine keeping these in mind: Follow a strict cleansing, toning and moisturising routine twice a day. This will keep your pores clean and will minimise their size. Apply olive or avocado oil daily to your hands and feet before going to bed for a well-hydrated soft and supple skin. For that extra glow you may use a rose pack twice a week. Crush rose petals and mix with milk for oily skin, and with cream for dry skin
and apply. Let it dry and then wash off. Honey also provides very good hydration and can be applied on a daily basis. Egg whites work very well for skin tightening and minimising pores. Do not try any new skin care/makeup product or any treatment one week before the celebrations to avoid any allergic reaction or rash. It is always better to book the same make-up artist for all your functions as they will know your skin better. Discuss your complete look with your artist to avoid any last minute mess. Also take some reference pictures along with you so that your artist knows what to do. Be sure to go for hair spa as healthy and shiny hair make you stand out. — Naunidh Singh, celebrity make-up artist
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FESTIVE FLAVOURS
What’s on my
plate? Superchefs MANISH MEHROTRA, ZORAWAR KALRA,VIKAS KHANNA and KUNAL KAPUR share some goodies for the season with UNNATI JOSHI
FESTIVALS
are a way of bringing exuberance and enthusiasm in life. Gatherings, shopping, games, lights, colours, a bit of family drama and above all the great festive food! A pile of it. And there’s no better way to set the mood for festivities than some good old mithai. But mithai as we know it has taken its own spin and evolved with multiple variations and play-arounds. The chefs have given it an international makeover, some have even added molecular theatrics to it. Be it cupcakes infused with gajar halwa, kaju panna cotta, bhapa doi cheesecake, jalebi caviar, phirnioxide, rasmalai tres leches, the list doesn’t seem to cease and is good for us. The season calls for a big fusion party with revamped, gussied up versions of our traditional favourites. After all what’s a celebration without a few surprises? These glamorous well-plated desserts will not only grab all
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your attention but give you a mouthful of flavours. However, with lifestyle-related diseases on the rise, it’s more about gluten-free, sugar-free and low cal food. For renowned chef Manish Mehrotra this is something that kills the spirit of festive food. So he still swears by tradition in limited amounts. “I have never thought of festive food as low cal or sugar-free, it’s celebratory food and needs to be celebrated. You need to enjoy it with your full heart with love which comes from the richness added into the food,” he says. Among the rising stars of the Indian culinary world, Vikas Khanna stands tall. Recollecting the memories of Diwali, Vikas says, “I remember everyone sitting together for the puja, ringing bells in no sync with the prayer and still having the best time. Diwali for me is a beautiful festival. I can still sense the aroma of the house during the festivities.”
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Besan laddoo tart and saffron cheesecake by Chef Manish Mehrotra, Indian Accent INGREDIENTS For cream cheese filling o Cream cheese: 2½ tbsp o Sugar: 1½ tsp o Sour cream: 2 tbsp o Eggs beaten o Cardamom powder o Saffron: a few strands For mithai cream o Milk cake: 20 gms o Single cream: 1tsp
HOW TO PREPARE For tart shells o Crumble the besan laddoos. Mix well with your hands, kneading to create a soft dough-like mixture. o Use the mixture to line a tart mould of 3½ inch diameter. Refrigerate the mould overnight. o As the laddoos are prepared with ghee, the tart shell will harden. o Remove from refrigerator only when ready to bake.
To serve Cut fresh fruits of your choice (optional)
For cheese filling o Mix cream cheese and sugar with a spatula till smooth.
o Add sour cream. Incorporate well. Add beaten eggs to the creamy mixture. Mix well to ensure there are no lumps. o Add saffron strands and cardamom powder. Keep aside. To bake the tart o Fill the besan laddoo tart shell with the cream cheese filling. o Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180 degree celsius for 12 minutes till the centre becomes slightly wobbly. o Cool on a wire rack. When cooled, refrigerate for a further three hours. For mithai cream o Take milk cake and blend with cream in a blender. Strain the mixture through a sieve to prepare a smooth, creamy sauce. To serve o Remove the tart from the refrigerator and slice into equal parts. o Place a slice on a plate and serve with a drizzle of mithai cream, accompanied with fresh cut fruits of your choice.
Explaining his notion of modern Indian festive food, the chef says, “It means using less sugar and we must find sugar alternatives. I love using gur in my kitchen.” About the evolution of Indian food, he tells us, “I feel the evolution of Indian cuisine and the whole pyramid has gone way higher. When we were growing up, it was all about basic food which I love too much but now I feel we have become competitive in the global market. We have become more focussed now.” “My favourite festive food is ladoo that we prepare every time around Diwali. Thali for me has always been festive. It’s all about its vibe,” says chef Manish.
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Now that Indian festive cuisine has evolved, chef Kunal Kapur gives his take on the same, “It’s all about celebrating who we are and breaking away from stereotypes. The best example is when you take a curry out of a bowl and put it on a plate, that’s where we are heading towards and that’s who we should be. Festive thalis have always been unlimited food. Now that the thali has evolved too, there are these small little samplers that keep coming as courses — 15, 18 and even 20. If you look at it, it’s actually a thali but presented in a very unique and small portions which are colourful and very exciting.” What is his favourite festive appetiser? “I can’t get over Christmas puddings” and then he murmurs, “Gujiyas with bhang are the best!” In a room full of people we hear a flamboyant man asking if everyone has had food. Certainly a Punjabi we thought. And, we saw Zorawar Kalra. Riding high on the success of his categorised cafés and diners, he says, “Anything goes as long as respect is given to the host cuisine and dish. Modern Indian festive food has come a long way. You should come up with new thoughts and experiment and I think that’s what a human mind
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Qubani ka meetha mille feuille by Chef Arun Sundararaj, The Taj Mahal Hotel INGREDIENTS o Dried apricots: ½ cup o Sugar: 3 tbsp or as per taste o Green cardamom: 2 crushed o Lemon juice: 1 tsp o Milk or water: ¼ cup To garnish o Apricot kernels o Slice of roasted and blanched almonds and pistachios o Saffron threads: 1 pinch (optional) o Edible silver leaf (warq): 1 pinch For mille feuille puff pastry o Puff pastry: 200 gms
HOW TO PREPARE o Soak dried apricots overnight. o When they puff into smooth balls, strain them. Pit the apricots. o Transfer the apricots along with soaked water to a non-stick pan. o Bring to a boil and stew for 15 minutes, add sugar. Keep stirring. o Mash to make the apricots pulpy. o Add lemon juice to prevent caramelising. o At this stage add ¼ cup milk to prevent the compote from sticking. o Now add cardamom powder and saffron. Stir well.
For baking the puff pastry o Line a 43 x 30 cm baking sheet with parchment paper. o Roll out the puff pastry into a 3mm thick, 40 x 20 cm rectangle. Put the dough on baking sheet and refrigerate for 30 minutes. o With the rack in the middle position, pre-heat the oven to 200 degree celsius. o Prick entire surface of the dough. Brush with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for about 15 minutes. o Cut the puff pastry into sheets and fill the apricot stuffing and repeat to form layers.
is capable of, immense evolution. For example take a sondesh and stuff it with something unique or take a gol gappa and add some creativity to it. So this basically is modern Indian food. Festive or otherwise.” Reminiscing his festive memories, he says, “Around Diwali there used to be so many sweets in our house but my parents hid them because we ate a lot. But a few days before Diwali that access was given to us. And that’s the best festive food memory of my life. I remember playing all day on Diwali, then gather for the puja, light diyas and then go out to burn crackers and again attack the food exhausted by the end of the day.”
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T H R E A D TA L E S
For the
LOVE
of
HANDLOOM Get a feel of the nation with these native drapes
THE
comfort, entitlement and empowerment which comes from wrapping an ethnic fabric around is something inexplicable. From an idea to popularise and help the weavers to celebrating and reviving the lost art, and being the highlight of the mainstream fashion, these threads have come a long way. The fabrics are marked with singularity, yet have a nationalistic sameness. The warp and weft might vary from region to region but ultimately sing the same song of earthy and rooted individuality. Presenting some of the not so famous regional drapes. EXOTICA [66] OCTOBER 2016
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CHETTINAD FROM TAMIL NADU known as kandaangi, it is the traditional sari of the Chettinad region in Sivaganga district of Tamil Nadu. It is characterised by its silk-like texture and contrasting border with intricate designs. It has unique pattern with bold checks, stripes and hues reflecting dramatic and spontaneous use of colours.
ALSO
HOW TO DRAPE It is generally worn in “pinkosu” style, meaning pleats on the back which add a lilt to the hips and a flattened front line. It can be worn without a petticoat. Start the pleats right at the edge of the sari. The pleats will fall outside of the wrap, flipping the top border wrapped in a bundle, so the underside of the..... can show.
BAWANBUTTI FROM BIHAR is renowned for its iconic 52 miniature motifs — a result of a small, yet significant technical innovation. The pioneering efforts of connoisseurs of handloom and handicrafts like Upendra Maharathi played a vital role in the revival and sustenance of this great tradition in the early 1940s. A few weavers in Basawanbigha — a small village in Nalanda — are keeping this tradition alive.
IT
HOW TO DRAPE Wrap the inner end around the waist, anticlockwise and tuck in. Bring free end to the right waist and tuck in. Bring the outer end piece under the left arm, over the head and across the right shoulder, back to front. Bring the outer end piece around the waist, anti-clockwise. Tuck in the outer end-piece at the front-left waist.
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GUNTUR FROM ANDHRA PRADESH Known for its tightly-mend drapes with folds of about 80 counts, the Guntur sari mostly has a single colour and pattern with a characteristic tribal touch. The border of the sari is very narrow. The pallu is not too intricate as it comprises sparse buttis or flower adornments and simple stripes. HOW TO DRAPE Bring the inner end-piece around the waist clockwise, and tie the knot at front. Take the outer end-piece around the waist anti-clockwise and throw over the right shoulder till thigh-length. Make pleats of the remaining loose portion facing right. Roll pleats outward and secure by wrapping over with innermost layer. Pick up lower borders at two extremes. Bring to the back waist from either side and tuck in.
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MAHESHWARI FROM MADHYA PRADESH
MAHESHWAR,
the river and pilgrim town in Madhya Pradesh, is a centre for weaving colourful saris. Conceived and designed by Queen Ahilya Bai Holkar, to empower women of her kingdom and keeping art alive, she popularised it in her time, the weavers’ cooperative now being run by her descendants. Maheshwari conjures up a picture of royal elegance. These saris are woven with distinctive designs, involving stripes, checks and floral borders. They are woven in silk and cotton and embellished with golden zari. The new trend in Maheshwaris is the silk- cotton combination. HOW TO DRAPE Tie the sari on petticoat with pleats as you do normally. Then take the pallu and let it go around you under your hands. To keep it in place, secure it with pins on both sides of your blouse. Now pleat the pallu, let it go under your left hand, bring it on the left shoulder and pin it. Very wearable and stylish.
KUNBI FROM GOA Kunbi tribe is believed to be the oldest in Goa. The sari was originally worn by Kunbi and Gawda tribe women who were basically paddy field workers. This is the main reason its drape is simple, the length is just below the knee and gives freedom to the Kunbi workers to carry on with their daily chores and tough field work. Originally the sari was dyed in red and black and woven in small and large checks. The dye was obtained from a mix of iron ore, rice kanji (starch) and vinegar.
THE
HOW TO DRAPE This drape is very similar to that of the male Maharashtrian dhoti. The center of the sari is placed at the centre back, the ends are brought forward and tied securely, then the two ends are wrapped around the legs. The ends are then passed up over the shoulders and the upper body.
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GADUGINA FROM KARNATAKA in the cotton (Jayadhar variety) belt of Karnataka, people in Gadag are engaged in mainly two professions — agriculture and sari-weaving. Traditionally called Gaadi Dhadi, these saris have been a staple of women from northern Karnataka. Worn during traditional, formal or celebratory occasions, Gadag saris exhibit harmonious colours, quality and richness. They have special vernacular names like Kasakasi, Peta Dhadi and Pattedanchu.
LYING
HOW TO DRAPE In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the cloth.
KUTHAMPULLY FROM KERALA traditional cotton weaver’s village with around 600 Brahmin families, Kuthampully is well known for Kasavu handloom weaving. Kuthampully saris are different from the regular ones because of the golden embroidery. The texture of the sari depends on the type of thread, thickness and style of weaving. The saris have beautiful temple designs and figures of kathakali dancers and Lord Krishna printed on them. It also
A
features the kara or the line design. HOW TO DRAPE The end of the sari is tucked on the right side and brought around the waist from the back, tucked in fully while doing the same. The front is again tucked in on the sides twice, leaving some length of fabric in between. Pleats are made in the front and tucked in the centre. The pallu is draped over the chest and back.
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JAMDANI FROM BENGAL
JAMDANI
before the Partition was a part of the great Bengal sari clan but now it survives in pockets. Woven from very fine Egyptian cotton and woven by hand, the touch and feel of Jamdani is supple and soft. It is one of the most time and labour-intensive forms of handloom weaving and one of the finest varieties of muslin. HOW TO DRAPE Tuck the sari along your waist into the petticoat around your navel and draw to the left. Now take the remaining part of sari and cross it over to your left. Make a single fold and tuck it at the back towards the left side of your waist. Take the rest to your right from the front in a way that it crosses the folds of your sari in the front. Take the remaining portion and drape it around your chest as comfortably as you want it. You can make pleats and rest them on the left shoulder.
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D H O T I S
PANCHA FROM ANDHRA PRADESH word pancha comes from Sanskrit meaning ‘five’. This may be a reference to the fact that a five yard-long strip of cloth is used to denote the five knots used in an elaborate south Indian manner of draping the garment. It is worn with a chokka (a normal shirt) or jubba (a rendition of kurta) in Seemandhra and Telangana.
THE
VESHTI FROM TAMIL NADU anything symbolises a seamless fusion of east and west, it is the sarong-like white cotton veshti that Tamil men wear in lieu of trousers, teamed with a typical collared and buttoned shirt. The veshti’s all-weather potential is aptly demonstrated by south Indian men who, with a mere deft flick of the wrist, halve the 50-inch width into a knee-baring, airy, kilt-like skirt knotted at the waist. All white or coloured, with or without borders, two or eight yards, knotted or pleated, there is a veshti for all occasions.
IF
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MUNDU FROM KERALA is well known as a mundu in Kerala. The conventional attire is a fabric wrapped around the waist sufficiently long to stream down to the feet. Additionally, a two-piece dress worn by the women is known as mundu neriyathu. The Christian women wear a chatta (pullover) and mundu. They wear it with a fan fold at the back.
DHOTI
KACHCHE PANCHE FROM KARNATAKA Panche implies five bunches or folds. It is a straightforward wrap around the waist. It looks like a long skirt and is normally four yards in length. It collapses into equal parts up to the knees while working. The second style comprises collapsing around the waist amidst the piece of clothing and tying the top finishes in the front like a belt and tucking the falling left and right closures at the back. It is normally eight yards long.
KACHCHE
DHOTIS FROM BENGAL proper Bengali man is stereotyped in popular culture as wearing costly fragrances, a light kurta and an involved dhoti with rich creases, the front corner of the material being stiffened like a Japanese fan and grasping it while hotly examining governmental issues and writing. It is viewed as the richest ensemble and is worn at Bengali weddings and social celebrations.
THE
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FASHION
Style statement Check out what these celebs wore and where
Priyanka Chopra twirled for the cameras in a Jason Wu number at The Emmy awards.
Amal Clooney wore a black and nude floral silk georgette and chantilly lace dress from the Transeason Michael Kors.
Kendall Jenner in DSquared2’s thigh-high lace- up sandals from their Spring 2016 collection at MTV movie awards.
Sofia Vergara at The Emmys 2017 in St Johns.
Sistine Stallone in Armani at the premiere of Hacksaw Ridge at 73rd Venice Film Festival in Italy.
Tyler Hoechlin in John Varvatos at Stuart House charity.
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I TA L I A N R E T R E AT
Still waters
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Of all the alpine lakes that dot Austria, Italy, Germany, and Switzerland, Lake Como on the northern border of Italy is by far and away one of the most stunning. If you find yourself with a day to spare in Milan, you absolutely have to go. By KUSHAN MITRA
TRAVELLING
to Lake Como — one of the most scenic parts of the world is — actually quite easy. But first one has to decide where on Lake Como you wish to travel. Lago di Como, as the Italians call it, has a total area of over 146 sq km. Visiting all the scenic towns along the lake is an impossible task over a week, let alone a day.
Travelling to Como on the southwestern tip of the lake involves taking a train from Milan’s Porto Garibaldi station. Como is the largest town on the lake and like all Italian towns, it has a wonderful medieval cathedral and several old buildings. It’s also a major hub for lake excursions, allowing tourists to hire boats, helicopters and floatplanes. If you are interested in viewing the houses of the rich and famous, this is an ideal way, however if
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you wish to save some money, fast ferry — a hydrofoil that zooms across the lakes in various towns — is a better idea. On the southwestern “branch” of the lake, one can see the famous ‘Villa D’Este’ hotel as well as the one belonging to Hollywood superstar George Clooney. However, we decided to visit the extremely scenic “middle” part of the lake. This involves a fabulous train journey from Milan Central railway station. The ticket to Varenna-Esino station costs 6.70 Euros and you reach Varenna in just about an hour. Trains depart for Varenna every hour in the morning, and tickets are easily available both online and at the station. One can disembark at Lecco, the southeastern tip of the lake — a town much like Como. The Varenna train station is beautiful, tucked away at a high point of the town. There are multiple types of ferries that cross the lake but if you only have a day, buying an unlimited “middle
lake” pass for 15 Euros gives you unlimited rides between the four large towns dotting the middle portion of the lake. A car ferry picks us up quickly and within minutes we are in the beautiful lakeside town of Bellagio — one of the most famous towns on the lake. Bellagio is located at the point where the lake separates into “two legs”. The view northward is stunning as one can see the beautiful snow-capped peaks of the southern Alps of Switzerland. While the town definitely feels a bit of a tourist trap, prices for food and coffee aren’t off the charts unlike some other parts of Italy during tourist season. There are several restaurants that dot the shores here. One of the best things about travelling in Italy over other parts of Europe is that the food is fairly simple to understand with pastas and pizzas and a salad thrown in here or there into the mix. Vegetarians would have no problems in Italy but meat lovers should check what sort of meat
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they are getting before ordering. A nice Italian wine, possibly a nice Prosecco, is not a bad idea to enjoy your meal with. However ensure you have enough cover from the bright sun lest you get a headache. After a leisurely lunch, and one must have a meal at Bellagio, you can walk to the edge of the lake at the northern end of the town. After this it was time to take another ferry, this time to the western shore of the lake to Cadenabbia. Most of the towns that dot the lakeside are really small, usually not much more than a cluster of houses, a hotel or two with a few restaurants. And instead of catching the ferry back to Varenna from here we decided to embark on a lovely hour-long walk to the town of Mennagio a few kilometers down the shore. Several hotels have set up places for bathers and there are also spots where anyone can just park and go dip their feet (and more) in the waters of the lake. Incidentally, Como is a rather deep lake and has strong currents, so getting wet is the only thing to do, swimming is not ideal, especially since most of these “spots” are unsupervised. Along the walk we saw some stunning lakeside villas, some of which can be rented at surprisingly attractive rates such as Villa Margarita. There are
several options to stay on Como and a hotel isn’t always the best option. In addition to the villas, there are several attractive bungalows and apartments with stunning lake views and for those youngsters on a tighter budget, Mennagio also has a lovely International Youth Hostel. Mennagio is one of the most scenic towns on the shore but is also one of the larger towns and is replete with some lovely properties and a lovely little chapel. Yet, as we aimed to catch the train at around 6 in the evening from Varenna, we decided to catch another ferry back to the station town. This time we got the ferry “Milano” and not a car ferry — this lovely, almost hundred-year-old boat was heaving with tourists but the 20-minute ride with the sun getting lower on the horizon afforded some amazing views and stunning colours. We spent about half an hour in a cafe on the shores of Varenna, grabbing lovely Italian gelato and Birra Moretti before trudging up to the station to catch the train back to Milan. Waiting for the train you appreciate just how lovely this station is. But our train, came soon enough, closing a lovely day. But Lake Como wasn’t done with us yet, between Varenna-Esino and Lecco, we caught lovely views of the sun setting over.
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O R G A N I C T R E AT S
Coconut shell bowl by Buzzaria Dukaan. Price on request.
love Nature
3D Buddha lamp by Whyknot. Price `6,000
Gifting season is here. Some artisanal options
Divine duo by WhyKnot. Price: `1,500
Italian acetate eyewear by Scavin. Price on request.
Gift pack by Kama Ayurveda. Price on request.
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Bark wood shell spoons by Buzzaria Dukaan. Price on request.
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‘Feel good boxes’ by Beautysource. Price on request.
Olive branch shower gel by Lush. Price on request. Mystique reed diffuser by Niana. Price on request.
Argan oil by Josie Maran. Price on request.
Walnut planter by WhyKnot. Price: `1,450
Oxford Innova chair by InLiving. Price: `34,499
Ethical ‘no live plucking’ duvet by By Adab. Price: `2,750
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Rose water from Melvita. Price on request.
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FESTIVE KITSCH
Gems
abound Our traditional bazaars still pack a few surprises. ANKITA JAIN joins an exotic hunt
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TALK
of Diwali, and the first thing that pops up in mind is, ‘What will I gift my loved ones this time around?’ or most importantly, ‘What do I get them that they don’t already have?’ Well, to answer your queries we bring you a list of bazaars infused with ethnic feel in the heart of the city where you can open your wallet with no regrets. And this festive season, rather than spending on ear-shattering bombs, invest in products which enhance your wardrobe as well as home. The only to-do list is to reach out.
CHANDNI CHOWK
JUST
as a term is nothing and its interpretation is everything, so is Chandni Chowk. The street lit by the moon during the Mughal times is what one makes of it. We walk down the narrow lanes, better known for wedding shopping and amazing eateries. But this place also houses a treasure trove of classy chandeliers and lamps, a legacy of its Mughal past. Muhammad Irfan, owner of the 35-year-old GK Metal Exports, says, "Glass was introduced by Muslim rulers. It was a luxury that only few could afford. It was nothing less than a pride for royals and businessmen to showcase them in their drawing rooms. Now with the rise of middle class and growing spending habits, we make small chandeliers fit for apartments." Irfan owns a factory in Firozabad where stylish yet elegant glass pieces in different colours are made. Instead of coal, now craftsmen use natural gas as it is cost-effective and pollution-free. "Half of our products are exported," he adds. To prepare small lamps, they use glass rods that are heated over a small flame. As the heated portion of the rod softens, it is manipulated into different shapes or fused with glass shards of a different colour. Finer details are added using a thin metal rod or needle. The larger and elaborate chandeliers are made with molten glass fashioned into products through blowing, moulding and PHOTOS: PANKAJ KUMAR
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shaping them in different ways. There is also a surge of butter lamps in the market. Made of brass, these are a conspicuous feature in Tibetan Buddhist temples and monasteries. These lamps traditionally burn clarified yak butter but in its absence, you can use vegetable oil or vanaspati ghee. You can find out a variety of metal lamps near gate number 3 of Jama Masjid. If you wish for designer lights, then head towards Bhagirath Palace. Anmol Ratan, owner of Gopal Chand and Sons, says, "We are in this market for over 72 years and I have been taking
care of our business for 51 years. We have a large variety of designer lights and own a manufacturing company, too. We use all kinds of products like brass, button and even semi-precious stones. We customise as per need. Once a customer asked for a peacock-style lamp with candle stands at its base. We used semi-precious stones to make it look elegant. But our most sought after item is the side table that lights up whenever somebody sits on it. The price of this seat is `11,000," he sums up. In its snaky lanes brimming with the commotion of too many people, Dariba Kalan, a 17th century market lane is the place where we find “temple jewellery” made of silver. The fourth quaint shop in the lane named Jain offers the best of the accessories, pachhelis florals, kitschy elephants and filigree work, banjara bali — a representation of nomad’s culture, meena kari bali — glass work infused with silver. Also, the wares here cost at least 25 per cent less than what it goes for in main markets. [Price: `250 onwards]
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MOVING
a little ahead, our eyes drop at a wholesale silver shop named Multan Jewellers where you can get plates, dishes, cups, glasses and almost all other crockery in bulk. The best shop to buy gifts and puja items. Besides, for the perfume lovers, small ittar shops here provide some au natural perfumes. All handcrafted and distilled from petals. A brisk walk from Dariba Kalan took me to Bhagirath Palace — a shopper’s delight where one can find buildings merging with modern houses and fancy light stores attracting young and old. While criss-crossing this narrow lane, we realise that something as basic as lights are not basic anymore. Touted as Asia’s largest wholesale market for electrical and electronic goods, this never ending path has a lot to offer. As we cross Mcdonalds at the edge of the main road — the first store in the inner lane with an opaque glass door charm us the most. It is a heaven within itself. From the breakfast table log to glowing cubical sittings, it has unique handmade variety which are also custom made. One can also find this boutique shop’s design in ‘Kingdom of Dreams’. Mosaic lights which work great for when you want to add some colour to your décor, ornamental pendant lights in metallic shades of gold and bronze, rope detailing lights, bottle-shaped wall lights with broken glass artwork on them, lights in the form of brass water taps and the mechanical parts of a cycle are some of the pleasing designs found in this lane flooded with people at any time of the day. [Price: `450 onwards]
IF
you’re on a tight budget, a walk around the market is sure to lead you to street vendors selling bulbs, tube lights, fairy lights, and more, all at wholesale prices. We find some super colourful plastic lights known as Iq lamps that had a very psychedelic look to them, mostly because of the trippy shapes they came in. To our delight, these were pocket friendly as well. [Price: `50 onwards]
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MAJNU KA TILLA
THERE
are not many markets in Delhi, our eagle eye has missed out on but Majnu ka tila, a Tibetan Colony with some home décor items fascinate us. A smaller condensed version of Dharamsala — we could feel the faint echoes of Dalai Lama’s preaching, unusual smells, the serene soft music from the prayer bells. The graceful Tibetan ladies in their traditional attire selling momos enchant us. From Korean style garments, antique décor items to hand-crafted paper gifts, this market charms like none. Moreover, it is laced with tiny kiosks selling Tibetan curios and silver trinkets, travel agencies offering Himalayan tours, hawkers selling dozens of Tibetan pop music and movie CDs, some shops with fake Chinese silk material and typical little pouches and bags, colourful ‘Free Tibet’ t-shirts, shoes, salons, and street shops selling unusual food items such as dried fish and fermented bamboo shoot. The rule that applies to this market is to eat first and then shop. Following this we head
towards a bistro Ga-Kyegu House which can make anyone feel like being in Tibet. From the stone interior to the antiques from the country on display everything here is unique which comes along with never seen before gesture. Though the carte has less to offer and the space is tiny, they welcome us with a big heart and make sure that we are comfortable. Across the famous bistros, there exists a tiny store for exquisite Nepali and Tibetan jewellery. It offers intricate silver work, Tibetan art and handicrafts at economical prices. They also have a section for old, semi-precious and vintage jewellery as well but heading straight for their stellar neckpieces and their tiny tortoise rings in minakari is a win-win. Near the monastery there is a shop dealing in hand-crafted gift items, crowns worn by Ladakhis priced between `2,500-5,000. Besides, it has customised Tibetan dress called chupa and other paper crafts which serve as the best token of remembrance.
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PAHARGANJ
BRAVE
a five-minute auto ride from Connaught Place or board a metro to RK Ashram. The streets of Paharganj will make sure you take back at least a bit of hippie culture, from harem pants to Lord Shiva prints, chilams, hookahs and much more. Apart from these, the bazaar offers junk jewellery, leather bags and chappals, articles with antique touch and second hand books at an affordable price. One of the shops in the first lane dealing in hand-crafted articles from around the nation has a Nagaland headgear on display — symbol of position, status and power made of bamboo and decorated with beads. The shop next to it deals in dokra arts, the ageold craft of making metal artefacts by a waxcasting technique from Chhattisgarh. Every piece has a distinct identity. An art that is `4,000-5,000 years old — its earliest known lost wax artefact is the dancing girl of Mohenjodaro.
While doing a recce in the market, we come across a tiny outlet dealing in ceramic door knobs with around 200 designs. But the owner of the store sporting a great moustache left a much stronger impression. For him, it’s necessary to look an Indian first and then sell home-grown art. Hand painted tiles with an array of designs are also on display. [Price: `30 onwards]
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CHAWRI BAZAAR
ORIGINALLY
known as Chawdi (wide road) Bazaar, this market cluttered with wires comprises hardware shops and the wholesale paper market but there is much more to add. The 19th century market runs along a long stretch of a street with the Hauz Qazi Chowk at one end and the backyard of the Jama Masjid at the other. The other end offers various classic shops dealing in vintage articles similar to those used in the era of Mughals. Items sold here are not really antique but are made to look like. Art pieces are sourced from all over the country and primarily from UP, from the towns producing brassware. [Price: `500 onwards] Once known as a promenade of the walled city, this bazaar is famous for its heavenly desserts. Makhan malai — neither butter nor cream — adds to the fun of shopping and helping forget the street’s notorious traffic.
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COLOUR RIOT
OUT
of the many rituals followed in India during the festive days, is Rangoli — the traditional art form created usually on the floor at the entrance of the house or courtyards to welcome Hindus deities and guests. It is considered auspicious and lucky for the home and family. Popular across the country, it has different names like kolam in Tamil Nadu, alpana in Bengal, chowk pujan in Bihar and Madhya Pradesh. Some varieties to consider:
Perfect
palette
Did you know Rangoli has types too?
CHOWK: The oldest form of rangoli in India, it’s made by flour, vermilion and turmeric. DOTTED: Made by dots in equal lines and numbers in different shapes like square, circle and star. Later it is filled with colours, made mostly in South India. FREE-HAND: This is one of the most common and famous forms seen in every home. FLOWER PETALS: The modern version is made by the petals of flowers like rose, marigold and lotus. During the festival of Onam in Kerala, it’s one of the major attractions known as Onam Pookalam. ALPANA: Famous in Bengal, it’s made from the paste of rice. The unique aspect about this one is that it’s made using just three fingers. WOODEN: This pattern comes with a fixed set of items like flowers, birds or leaves which can be arranged on the floor. FLOATING: The modern and the youngest form in which diyas, flowers, candles float on water. GLASS AND STENCIL: This one is not that popular but it saves time as one can use the ready-made painted glasses and cutouts in different shapes and sizes to make a quick pattern.
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HOTWHEELS
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Kushan Mitra Auto & tech expert
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AMERICA, TRUCK YEAH!
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AS What Americans call ‘trucks’ are big business for the auto industry and they don’t get much bigger than the famous Ford F150
much as we might complain about the size of SUVs on Indian roads, these vehicles pale in comparison to the monsters you see in America. Take the newly-launched Jeep Grand Cherokee. In the US, it looks positively puny in comparison to vehicles such as the Cadillac Escalade. And then there are what Americans call “trucks”. Now these are not trucks as you and I know in India, these are large personal vehicles, almost always with a flat-bed to haul your things around. You might have seen the Tata Xenon and Mahindra Getaway. Well these are similar, just twice as big.
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And these were basic, like most American vehicles always were. Simply put together and easily repaired. Luxury was never the American way. But those days are gone, and that is quite evident in the 2017 Ford F150 King Ranch that I recently had a chance to drive on the Ford test track in Dearborn, Michigan. The F150 is by far and away Ford’s best-selling vehicle. By some estimates one F150 is sold every thirty seconds. Despite competitors like the Dodge Ram, Chevrolet Silverado and now the Toyota Tundra, the F150 continues to rule the roost. And like all vehicles the F150 has continued to grow. These are some of the headline numbers. The F150 is 6.19 metres long. With its (admittedly huge) mirrors out, the car is over eight feet wide. The 4x4 version with the twin-cab weighs over 2.2 tons; but with the mammoth 3.5 litre V6 EcoBoost engine that produces 365 horsepower and vitally 450 pounds foot of torque, this monster has a towing capacity of five tons. Let me compare those figures with what we
would call a large car in India, Ford’s own Endeavor. This is four feet shorter, a foot thinner and over 200 kg lighter for the top 4x4 model with the 3.2 engine. And as much as I like the Endeavor, albeit with the smaller engine and twowheel drive (will you ever take an SUV out to the country?) as I was to discover, the F150 is far more fun to drive as well. Yet, do not for one second think that this is an unrefined lump of meat, this isn’t a redneck wagon. Hell no. Far from it, the latest iteration of the F150 has Ford’s most advanced gearbox yet, possibly one of the most advanced gearboxes in the world — with 10 forward speeds. And that is what we drove at Ford’s high-speed test-track outside their headquarters in Dearborn, Michigan. The version we drove was the luxurious “King ranch,” which is kitted out in acres of embossed leather and wood, a state-of-the-art Sony infotainment system that would not be out of place in a German luxury car. The interiors of the car has the feel of a large wooden cabin in the
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American countryside, which is what Ford was trying to achieve. But that was not it, Ford wanted a whole posse of journalists to try out the new F150 at the high-speed test track for a reason. This behemoth can move at a considerable rate of knots thanks to the new gearbox — it showcased how quickly the new F150 went from a stand start-up to the highway speed limit in the US of 70 miles per hour and beyond. And the car is surprisingly easy to drive, yes, you know that you command the roads but the F150 does not feel out of place on the track. The steering is light, the gear-changes are smooth and you can even manually shift gears —useful not so much for the track but more for country and hilly roads where you might need to hold a gear. In the early days, the first F150s in the late 50s had a crude three-speed automatic gearbox, but you really appreciate modern technology. This huge
beast is also economical by American truck standards, albeit it would probably give an Indian small car owner a heart attack. That said, petrol costs half of what it does in India out here. Sure, this is no Mustang, it isn’t supposed to set the roads alight. But it can really get a move on when it needs to. This might look like a Diplodocus in a world of small raptors, but this can give the raptors a run for their money. Vehicles like the F150 work in a huge country like the United States with large expanses of rural roads and where ranches and farms can often expand as far as the eye can see. Clearly, something like this can only be made for the US and Canada where you need such monstrous vehicles propelled by big-petrol engines to go anywhere. But you know what, I drove a lot of cars at this Ford track day, the utterly maniacal Focus RS and the new Fusion, but it was the F150 that left a smile on my face.
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PUBLIC GALLERY
Artwork
at airport Airports Authority of India refurbishes Kolkata airport into an exhibit
Dr Guruprasad Mohapatra Chairman, AAI
“Airports Authority of India is determined to preserve the Art and Culture of the country in general and the States in particular where the airport is located, the same can be felt at our state-of-the-art Airports spread across the length and breadth of the country, Kolkata Airport is one amongst them. Also we believe in the art is to nourish the roots of our culture, society must set the artist free to follow his vision wherever it takes him.�
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AN
airport was never considered a representative of the tradition and history of a particular nation. But with time, there has been a transfiguration because of which passengers spend more hours at the airport between their flights. Airports across the world are now showcasing the art and culture through various means, leaving the imprints of the city, state or country it is situated in. They are the new art hubs where travellers can enhance their experience at various levels. There are now museums, activity areas, exhibitions, installations and interactive seasonal events at every terminal, depending on its spread. India has also joined the bandwagon depicting its rich art and culture at its various airports. Known for its literary, artistic and revolutionary heritage, Kolkata is considered the cultural capital of India. The Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport (NSCBIA) in Kolkata — the gateway to east-Asia — has undergone changes over the last decades to meet the growing air traffic requirements. In the process, it has refurbished its identity with some of modern India’s icons.
Passengers can enjoy Rabindranath Tagore’s scripts while entering Kolkata Airport
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Check-in area where ceiling is embossed with the Nobel prize winner Rabindranath Tagore’s script
The newly-inaugurated integrated terminal building of NSCBIA is spread over 1,89,815 sq m with modern facilities, including 128 check-in counters with CUTE, 40 immigration counters, seven departure and 16 arrival conveyor belts, 18 custom counters and aerobridges along with 27 elevators, 16 escalators and 13 travelators with a capacity to handle 20 million people annually. It has been designed and planned to showcase the rich cultural heritage of Kolkata in particular and Bengal in general. The Airports Authority of India (AAI) has also installed an 18 ft tall statue of Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose in front of the new terminal. The building is one of the biggest pieces of land art inspired by works of literary genius and Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore. It connects the building with its environment, the outside with the inside creating a unique landscape. It also offers two disparate spatial experiences — the vastness of the grand central garden and the intimacy of the internal courtyards. The grand central garden is a canvas inspired by paintings and poems by Tagore. It has two levels separated by a sweeping curve — a direct inspiration from one of Tagore’s famous paintings.
Compared to the simplicity of the lower level, the upper level of the garden is rightly textured and patterned. This is unique in nature with many variations and is inspired by letters and words extracted from one of the famous poems of Gitanjali. Inside the terminal building, the
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Mural painting at terminal; (below) Ceiling of terminal converted into Tagore’s letters by using aluminium piping
landscape is about a series of intimate courtyards acting as a natural oasis. Platforms housing trees appear to float on pools in orthogonally designed courtyards, providing a sense of tranquility. Art works of several great artists of Bengal grace the airport which attracts international and
domestic passengers. While travelling through Kolkata Airport, passengers can also have a glimpse of Rabindranath Tagore’s letters and scripts which have been vividly reproduced in the ceiling of building by using powder-coated aluminium piping. At another end, his handwritings have been converted into embossed letters — a very rare exhibit at airports across the globe. The green concept has been well thought of while constructing the new terminal. The building facilitates natural sun light, rain water harvesting, energy efficiency and other eco-friendly features. In order to ensure sustainable development, the roof of the terminal has been designed to harvest rainwater even as it resembles a shimmering piece of silk. An old banyan tree, protected at Kolkata Airport by the dedicated engineers with the help of environmental scientists, is one such great instance of the same thought. Further, to promote and reflect the cultural appeal of the city, AAI has also allotted space to various government organisations at concessional rates to sell various articles and goods made by the artisans of Bengal and other states. Passengers can surely enjoy the flavour of Kolkata’s art at its airport itself now, a great achievement by AAI.
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BLITHESPIRIT
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Magandeep Singh Sommelier
Sips picks and
Whether you want to buy it for yourself or are looking for gifting inspiration, here are a few festive recommendations EXOTICA [98] OCTOBER 2016
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THE
most important reason why we should drink a wine, any wine, is because we want to. Nobody should ever be forced to have wine, social obligation or keeping up some other pretence otherwise. The whole idea of wine, or any alcoholic beverage, is enjoyment and of that there is only one kind — one that is innate and personal. So, if you don’t like wine, don’t have it. Also, disregard the wines I’m about to mention as ideal for festivities for that extra sparkle may not have the same desired magical effect on you. SPARKLINGS: This is perhaps the most festive a wine can get. Also, more often than one would like, it can get very expensive. Champagne is great but one needs the pockets for it. Prosecco is fun but not a serious enough substitute. I don’t mind falling back on Indian brands like York, Grover-Zampa and Fratelli which make commendably good sparkling wines and unlike the ones which may have been rotting on some store shelf for an indefinitely long period, our local wines promise to be fresh and crisp. WHITES: This is a category that is perhaps the least demanded whereas in fact, a white can be just as complex as a red or stronger spirits. My go to choice is the Viña Esmeralda by the house of Torres — aromatic and buoyant. Another super pick is any wine from the grape, Grüner Veltliner (any maker that is available in India will do just fine). These aromatic and crisp Austrian numbers are considered among the top pairings for Indian, (sic) Asian cuisines. I like them young but they hold well too. Peramanca from the South of Portugal is another excellent choice. REDS: By far the most important category of wines for our market, they are even more in demand as the festive season draws near. I like wines which promise fruit and grip yet a
certain lightness with gentle oak, if needed at all. Pinot Noir from New Zealand is one option, Carmenere from Chile is another one as also Shiraz from Australia. Avoid Merlot, it is mostly generic and flat-out boring. If you can find some, Blaufrankisch is one of the growing curiosities from Eastern and Central Europe. Moriç from Austria remains one of my reference points for wines which can be heady yet light. FORTIFIED: I’ll be the first to admit that we just don’t drink enough good Port, in general around the world. It will be a pity if this callous ignorance on our part leads to its demise. Shame equally would be to see the local wine styles die out while people throng fast for chains armed with their trusty handheld devices to jot down an instant review on some Godforsaken website or another. All the wines mentioned above are best opened and drunk before being offered to others. So in case you have to end up gifting these away, I suggest changing friends. It’s much easier than finding a good wine shop assistant in your neighbourhood market.
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FITNESS
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Bharat Thakur is a yoga guru and founder of Artistic Yoga
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GET THAT GLOW
We all want to have beautiful glowing complexions especially with the festive season round the corner. Most of us think of skin as just our body’s visible outer layer but did you know that biologically, our skin is the largest organ in the body and is very much alive?
IT’S
the organ of touch, protects the body from bacteria and the sun’s rays, regulates heat in the body and eliminates toxins through sweat. There is the outer layer that we see — the epidermis — constantly shedding dead cells, has no blood supply, hardly any nerve supply and receives its nutrients from an inner layer — the dermis. This is the true skin and is connected to the blood, nerves, lymph supply, sweat glands and more. A healthy and vibrant skin depends on good hormonal balance, blood circulation, digestive system and a strong respiratory system. There are also some self-care factors that make a
big difference — a healthy diet, drinking enough water, exercise, being able to relax and sound sleep. Yoga is the only system in the world that simultaneously works on all these aspects of a human being. If you look at yoga practitioners, you will see that their skins radiate a healthy glow. The combined practice of asanas (postures), pranayama (breathing techniques), bandhas (neuro-muscular locks) and relaxation/meditation help the body and mind to function at optimum level. So, to look and feel the best during the festivities, do the following exercises. I guarantee you will see the difference it makes to your skin, complexion and health.
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MATSYASANA o Lie on your back, legs and feet together, arms by your side. o Press down on your elbows, lift the head, arch the chest and upper body. o Bend your head backwards, resting head on floor. o Place your hands on your thighs. o Hold for 60 seconds, breathing deeply. o Slowly relax, use your elbows to return to the start position. BENEFITS: o Stretches and strengthens the neck and shoulder muscles. o Regulates the thymus gland improving the immune system.
KAPALBHATI o Sit in padmasana (lotus position) or cross-legged, back straight, eyes closed, palms on knees. o Exhale forcefully through the nose, pulling stomach inward. o Relax stomach and inhale. o Practice 50 exhalations at a stretch. BENEFITS: o The forceful exhalations cleanse and revitalise the face and the whole system. o Improves cardio-respiratory capacity and oxygen levels.
SARVANGASANA o Lie flat on your back, arms by your side and feet together. o Inhaling, slowly raise both your legs to 90 degrees, keeping them straight. o Support your back with both hands, raise your legs, hips and back. o Gently push the chest forward so it presses against the chin. o Relax, breathe normally and hold for 2 minutes. o Lower the hips and legs. BENEFITS: o Regulates the functioning of the thyroid gland. o Helps detoxify body and calms the mind.
PADAHASTASANA o Stand straight, feet and palms together at chest level. o Slowly inhale as you stretch both arms up over your head and bend back. o Exhale and bend forward. o Place palms beside feet and bring head down to the knees. o Inhale as you stretch up. Exhale as you resume start position. BENEFITS: o Improves blood circulation. o Increased oxygen flow helps cell renewal providing a natural glow to the face. o Reduces abdominal flab, stretches the back.
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GURUSPEAK
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THE
festival of Navratri is celebrated with prayers and gaiety with the advent of ashwin (autumn) and chaitra (spring). ‘Nava’ translates to nine meaning new. ‘Ratri’ – ‘Ra’ means giving solace or rest and ‘tri’ means three. These symbolise the three types of botherations or problems that can haunt a person — the physical, mental and the spiritual. That which gives you relief from these difficulties is ratri. At night you turn inward (catch sleep) and feel refreshed and rested in the morning. In the same way, Navratri or the nine nights is that time (of the year) when you turn inward towards your source.
Sri Sri Ravi Shankar Spiritual Guru
journey
A
to the source
Navratri is when Nature sheds the old and life emerges back afresh with every being transformed
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According to Vedic science, matter reverts back to its original form to recreate itself. The creation is cyclical, not linear — everything is recycled by nature — a continuous process of rejuvenation. The human mind, however, lags behind in this routine cycle of creation. Like a baby that lives in the mother’s womb for nine months before it is born, the seeker through fasting, prayer, silence and meditation gets back to his true source — love, joy and peace. While fasting detoxifies the body, silence purifies the speech and meditation takes us deep into our own being. During Navratri we can rejoice in the three primordial qualities — the feminine force of the universe. Though our life is governed by the three gunas, we seldom recognise and reflect on them. The first three days of Navaratri are attributed to tamo guna, the second three to rajo guna and the last to sattva guna. Navaratri is a celebration of the spirit or prana which alone can destroy the demons — mahishasura (inertia), shumbha-nishumbha (pride and shame) and madhu-kaitabh (extreme forms of
craving and aversion), raktabeejasura (inertia, deeply ingrained negativities and obsessions), chanda-munda (unreasonable logics) and dhoomralochan (blurred vision). During these nine nights, the Mother Divine is recognised not just as the brilliance of intellect but also the confusion. Realising this aspect, the entire creation leads one to a deep state of samadhi. Through wisdom, devotion and nishkama karma, one can attain advaita siddhi or perfection in the non-dual consciousness. Though Navratri is celebrated as the victory of good over evil, the actual fight is not between good and evil. From the Vedantic point of view, the victory is of the absolute reality over apparent duality. Though the microcosm is very well within the macrocosm, its perceived separateness is the cause of conflict. The Mother Divine or the pure consciousness pervades all forms. Navratri is all about awakening the dormant divine spirit in each one of us. www.artofliving.org
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NUMBERGAME
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COUNT YOUR FATE
NUMBER 1 (Ruled by Sun, people born on the 1st, 10th, 19th and 28th) Rounding off prestigious projects could be on your agenda for the week in question. If you manage to focus on the chosen task, it is likely that you could come out trumps. Taking help in the form of ‘tips’ from juniors could also help. Don’t forget to spend some time with your loved ones.
NUMBER 4 (Ruled by Uranus, people born on the 4th, 13th, 22nd and 31st) You possess wit and humour and can combine both to be in a commanding position. Your instincts, if followed, can lead you to your aspirations. The resultant breakthrough could materialise, sooner, or a little later, and so, patience is the key. Pay attention to your diet, think healthy.
NUMBER 7 (Ruled by Neptune, people born on the 7th, 16th and 25th) In matters of health, unhappy surroundings will make you gloomy and morose. As a result the physical constitution will be affected. A close watch on your nutrition and alternate therapies such as yoga, pranayama or meditation will score over stimulants prescribed by the best of the doctors.
NUMBER 2 (Ruled by Moon, people born on the 2nd, 11th, 20th and 29th) Business-cum-pleasure is something that has perhaps always fascinated you. Continue to work in the same direction and you will be pleasantly surprised. A dash of practicality, however, is the main ingredient for the recipe to your plans. Take expert advice in important matters.
NUMBER 5 (Ruled by Mercury, people born on the 5th, 14th and 23rd) Pivotal changes could come in but if you see the brighter side, it could enhance your knowledge remarkably. There is a lot we can learn from our critics and peers. Rivalry and competition should perk you up on rather than intimidate you. Remember, it’s a jungle out there and you need to come out on top.
NUMBER 8 (Ruled by Saturn, people born on the 8th, 17th and 26th) Profits may accrue due to your painstaking efforts. Being innovative and professional can get you what you deserve. No, it’s not a cliche, it actually works. On the personal front, too, you may expect peace and harmony. So pile on, as savings are the most sensible deed that will ultimately help you.
NUMBER 3 (Ruled by Jupiter, people born on the 3rd, 12th, 21st and 30th) You have great tastes and can maintain your home and wardrobe using the same. The fruits of your labour have been ever waiting for your hands to lay on them. Others have managed to use your basket so often. Sometimes winning is everything. It’s time to take a call.
NUMBER 6 (Ruled by Venus, people born on the 6th, 15th and 24th) Those involved in luxurious trades should think of displaying their wares, perhaps an exhibition could help. Your creative and beautiful side could be up just like the proud peacock which dances away in the rain. Avoid being too conscious of your surroundings and enjoy the moment.
NUMBER 9 (Ruled by Mars, people born on the 9th, 18th and 27th) Those in manufacturing industries could make some headway. Entrepreneurs could be looked upon by for some financial support. Adventure activities will fascinate you. If so, then you know the secret to your health. If you do feel restless, a little adventure or a trek could do you a world of good.
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DEEP CAVERNS
Archaeological
marvel THE
hills of Udayagiri and Khandagiri, located on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, are historic remnants of India’s rich past. The hills house a number of caves, most of which have been carved out by Jain monks and artisans from the times of King Kharavela. Not only are these caves testimony to the architectural genius of ancient India, they also bear messages of love, compassion and religious tolerance. The Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves are considered among the wonders of India and date back to the first century BC. Most of the caves are not natural but are rock cuts and are believed to have been dwelling cells and meditation quarters for Jain monks of the time. The sandstone caves bear testimony to India’s glorious past. The existence of these caves was brought to public notice in 1825. UDAYAGIRI CAVES The name Udayagiri means hill of sunrise. There are 18 caves in Udayagiri. The Rani Gumpha or the Queen’s Cave is the largest and the most majestic. It is a two-storeyed monastery supported
Get overwhelmed by the majestic rock-cut structures of Udayagiri and Khandagiri in Odisha
GETTING THERE The nearest airport and railway junction is at Bhubaneswar. Private cabs take visitors to the hills. The caves are open from sunrise to sunset throughout the year. Best time to visit is from October to March.
by many columns and terraces. The cave contains beautiful sculptures of dancing women, royal entourage and musical instruments. KHANDAGIRI CAVES Both the Tatowa Gumphas have parrot carvings over the entrance arches. These caves also bear some inscriptions of the time and the use of natural colour pigments is evident. The Ananta Gumpha is a very interesting cave in this complex with ancient Jain motifs. The Navamuni Gumpha carries sculptures depicting nine Jain tirthankaras or seersages. This cave depicts a number of Digambara Jains in prayer. The Barabhuji Gumpha came to be named after two sculptures with 12 arms each. This cave depicts a number of Hindu deities.
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SIGN-OFF
By RINKU GHOSH
Y
TECH TAKE ON TRADITION es, yes, there’s a nip in the air alright. October is the month of hope, with countrywide festivities convincing you that everything good is about to happen. If the year has been about wanting to believe, this month is about belief itself and pulling our feathers out for a resplendent display of abilities before we go into the hibernation of a long winter. Be it Durga puja, Dussehra or Diwali, we are in the happiest zone of our annual life cycle. As a migrant Bong, the capital has been my home for the last 20 years. But there has never been missing the puja spirit. And it is not just about the nodding kaash phool on the Yamuna river bed. In fact, the migrant community is even more aggressive and enthusiastic about taking the puja wherever they go. So it is in my little suburban neighbourhood. If you thought the largely ghettoised Chittaranjan Park was the hotbed of all activity, think twice. Thanks to traffic and congestion woes, everybody wants the puja at their doorstep. And technology has made everything possible, from downloading vidhis, to logistic processes, to recreating looks and themes. Online portals are flooded with how-to-dos of every aspect of the puja. So young people do not need the presence of the elderly to justify their presence as legitimate organisers. It is typical Bengali snobbery to dismiss the young as not evolved enough for organising an event of the scale of Durga puja in stranger lands. But they have taken this responsibility by wooing the conservative set with technology. And winning them over in the process. Talented IT professionals, knowing full well the seniors’ aversion to start and shake things up and the tendency to comment instead, have launched a members’ Durga puja app, documenting the virtual 3D experiences of noted Durga pujas, from Kolkata to Atlanta.
This has had its intended effect. The revelry has caught on with elders themselves suggesting what can be done to recreate a bit of our tradition. Our techie boys have gone a step ahead, looking for crowd-funding of the puja, thereby taking the pressure of generating the crucial component of funding at the community level. NRI friends and relatives have generously chipped in. Another bright mind has set up an aggregated portal of all online Bengal sari sites in the business. You click on the link and you can access every offering of the season. Some have taken the ethical, artisanal route about the need for hosting a Durga puja, no matter at what scale. Video clips are bombarding social media platforms about how the pujas amount to community service by helping the farmers, who supplement their income by taking up allied jobs during the pujas, saving our traditional drummers or dhaakis, our bhog-makers and priests, who now have mainstream jobs and most importantly protecting the artists and clay-modellers. “The structures take months to create and build. The idols, which are mostly made using clay and bamboo-hay structures, are self-standing works of art, which on the last day of the festival are immersed. Let us not immerse our being,” read one. A smart guilt-cleansing move of giving back to the state we have left for various reasons. But the bit that has convinced me is one of my young neighbours bothering to send me e-versions of the special Puja editions of the literary magazines I’ve grown up with. He has a polite message, “For your tiresome car rides...enjoy.” He has even procured original drama scripts online from group theatres in Kolkata. I can’t help but jump into the thick of things.
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