AVEYRON MAGAZINE
Issue 1 Comberoumal Wines of Aveyron
The Grandmontain priory of Comberoumal Eastern civilizations practiced monasticism long before the birth of Jesus Christ. Monasticism extended throughout Christendom for several centuries under various forms, but consistently looking out for isolation and silence with the ultimate goal of finding God through prayer and meditation. Étienne de Muret was one of those hermit monks, a holiness mentor, attracting more fans than he originally wished for. He was born in 1046 in the region of Auvergne, Massif Central, being educated in Italy. He chose to live at Muret, in the Limousin region, being soon joined in by scholars, seduced by his charisma and kindness. He died in 1124 leaving his successors his ‘Teachings’ as well as a few responsibilities. One of them was to establish a new order that was to be called Grandmont. The name got chosen as the location name of the first monastery, close to Limoges. Another duty was to write the rules of this new order, which was done between 1140 and 1150 mainly Comberoumal
based on the Gospel.
Among these rules, monks were supposed to have an enclosure with some buildings making up the ‘Celle’. Construction had to be as simple as possible, away from homes and villages and shall be gathering a community of no more than a dozen hermits. They were supposed not to have any income, as well as archives to avoid trial as heretics, but would be welcoming the poors, and begging would be prohibited unless in case of absolute necessity.
Comberoumal
Comberoumal
This gilded relief sculpture of Saint James the Great decorated the high altar of the abbey church at Grandmont until the French Revolution. Dated circa 1231. (Metropolitan Museum of Art collection)
The reform of the Pope John XXII In 1295, there were 151 convents. Pope John XXII, a former Grandmontain brought down the number of monasteries to 39, each having at its head a prior in charge of one or two monasteries. Grandmont, as the mother home became an abbey headed by a General Father, thus the order of Grandmont resembled greatly to that of the Benedictines.
The commendam The Hundred Years War with England greatly affected the order, but somehow priories subsisted during this long but agitated period. However another threat came and was fatal. In 1471, commendam became the universal norm, thus imposed to Grandmont forced its decadence. The commendam requested all the income of a priory or abbey to be given to a secular or a secular priest, who did not have to live on site even live the life of monks. With absolutely no income, the monasteries were ruined. The sixteenth century’s religious wars contributed damaging the buildings.
Charles Frémon’s reform In 1643, the abbot of Grandmont, tentatively reformed the religious. He was looking at returning to the initial rule known as St. Étienne’s; the strict observance of poverty, humility, silence, and obedience were successfully co-imposed to the monks who accepted them. Some priories, such as Saint Michel and Comberoumal rallied to this order renewal. However harsh living conditions discouraged new vocations as well as the Étienne de Muret 1044-1124
remaining monks. Thus in 1768, only 72 religious men were left of the Grandmontain Order.
Comberoumal
The end and the destruction of the Grandmont Order In 1765, the archbishop of Toulouse, Loménie de Brienne, proposed to King of France
the last abbot of Grandmont, Mondain de la Maison Rouge, Pope Clement XIV pronounced
Louis XV to lobby the Pope regarding a reform of the monastic orders. He was supported by
the dissolution of the Grandmont order in 1772. He added the number of monks was
the bishop of Limoges, Monseigneur du Plessis d’Argentré, who was seduced by
quite minimal and the discipline was extinguished. However the bishop of Limoges had to
the idea of being able to recover the property of the Abbey of Grandmont located in
wait for the death of the last Grandmontain abbot. Thus in 1787 he acquired Grandmont to
his diocese and build a new episcopal palace instead. Despite the desperate resistance of
sell and destroy an heritage that spanned over seven centuries.
The French Revolution of 1789 definitely carried the memory of that abbey away, devastating other priories and selling all properties at public auction as National Property.
WINES IN SOUTH WEST FRANCE AND AVEYRON Antiquity Romans, who were great colonizers of Provence, the Rhone Valley and the province of Narbonne, brought along the first vines to be planted in south west France. These Roman conquerors introduced wine rather than beer, as the most important drink according to their civilization. The clay-limestone slopes of France's southwest are well irrigated, the climate is mild, there are navigable rivers and soon the wine trade settled at Bordeaux, and Rome along the Roman Empire as well as Northern Europe. The Middle Ages However this wine trade got somehow disturbed by the fall of the Roman Empire, later on picking up with the extension of the Christianity. During close to three centuries, Toulouse was a stable area under a Visigoth kingdom. Thus the wine industry continued its expansion, supported by the clergy which was using the wine for the masses. Then the Moors and Vikings invaded a few times the region during the eighth century, destroying the vine industry. They cleared numerous area and maritime commerce became null during these times. As a result, the vineyard south west experience became reduced to its bare minimum.
Marcillac wine vintner Philippe Teullier
The wines of the High Country Gradually with stability coming back, the south west vineyards reconstituted them-
As the largest harbour on the Atlantic coast, Bordeaux had control over the
selves, experiencing a new phase of prosperity. However, another challenge surfaced,
inputs and outputs of the wines produced in large quantities in the hinterland, along
the
all
the Garonne river. These wines were called the wines of the high country and
exports whereas south west vintners did not have good ways of transporting, thus
had quite a good reputation. Furthermore, they were named after the name of the
selling their productions.
port sending them; Cahors, Gaillac, Moissac, or directly after the senders’ names.
Bordeaux became the hub, as the port of La Rochelle got closed to exports to
As
Northern Europe. In 1152 with the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry II of
name
England, Aquitaine was brought in to the Plantagenet empire and a thriving wine market from
Saint-Michel de Gaillac.
growing
domination
of
the
port
of
Bordeaux
mastering
examples, of
wines
Gaillac
loaded
wines
as
at they
the
port
were
of sent
Rabastens from
the
took
the
Abbey
of
the port of Bordeaux unfolded.
Le Castanet—Croix du Mounis, south of Lacaune Mountains. (Source: CAUE Aveyron)
Semi-troglodytes wine cellars found in the Tarn Valley using the same air renewal ancestral technique as found at Roquefort. cheese cellars. (Source: CAUE Aveyron)
Once arrived at Bordeaux, some wines were loaded on long-haul and sold under different names, likewise the regions of origin of the vessels. Usually, the rest of the load would be purchased by the merchants of the city, added to their own wines before exporting the new mixture. This is how a new market of mixing wines developed. As dealers would be selling Bordeaux wines at the same time, the uniqueness of the Cahors and Gaillac wines would dissipate. The south west wines had a period of prosperity up to 1241 when the Bordeaux winemakers were granted a privilege from the King Henry III of England. This privilege stated Bordeaux would be able to prohibit the wines of high country entering the port of Bordeaux before Christmas each year, unless heavily taxed. These significant tax and customs privileges allowed Bordeaux wines to get a definite advantage, a larger market share over hinterland’s vintners. From this point in, Bordeaux improved its wine business altogether, modernizing production processes thus wine quality, reinvesting profits in the drainage of the swampy surroundings. During the same time, coffee-houses were all the rage in England. To meet this new demand such as a better quality of imported wine, Bordeaux increased the number of wineries, manufactured brand new oak barrels as well as marketed the now common use of glass bottles and cork.
The south west wines had a period of prosperity up to 1241 when the Bordeaux winemakers were granted a privilege from the King Henry III of England. This privilege stated Bordeaux would be able to prohibit the wines of high country entering the port of Bordeaux before Christmas each year, unless heavily taxed. These significant tax At this point in time, Bordeaux
and customs privileges allowed Bordeaux wines to get a definite advantage, a larger market share over hinterland’s vintners.
“ Wine in south west France: 50,000 ha 330 million of bottles produced a year 5,000 vintners ”
improved its wine business altogether, modernizing production processes thus wine quality, reinvesting profits in the drainage of the swampy surroundings. During the same time, coffeehouses were all the rage in England. To meet this new demand for a better quality of imported wine Bordeaux increased the number of wineries, manufactured brand new oak barrels as well as marketed the now common
Historical wine barrels as seen at the Aquitaine Museum at Bordeaux
use of glass bottles and cork.
Mass production In 1773, Louis XVI ended the Bordeaux privilege. However as different wars unfolded including the French Revolution the maritime commerce of Bordeaux became scarce. Thus needs to get wines blended got suspended, pushing high country vintners to look for other markets to expand. A new market was booming, the working class was looking for wines at low prices. More productive grapes got planted, pushing down the overall quality of the newly produced wines in high country.
Phylloxera
The Twentieth Century
The disease phylloxera appeared in the
During the twentieth century, the mass production of table wines al-
1860s
vineyards.
lowed the development of large vineyards, with productive vineyards
It affected more severely the south west of
and the use of fertile areas . The wine production increased whereas
France as the majority of the land was de-
the quality produced decreased, but the table wine—the everyday
voted to viticulture. Back then Bordeaux and
wine— was more profitable.
devastating
entire
the south west of France was regarded as the main wine producer in the world.
However revival would hatch a new disaster. The massive frost of 1956 destroyed once again a large part of the vineyards. Only the most mo-
It took almost a century to the south west to
tivated and tough vintners decided to replant vines. With enthusiasm,
recover from this dramatic crisis, exacerbat-
technical and financial support from Algeria French returnees would
ed by the economic decline of the 1880s.
soon the vineyards regain their past credentials.
Some growers had the opportunity to replant their vineyards with American root stocks, as
Following decades of hard work, regional and local high quality wines
it seemed the best way to immunize against
received recognition through different labels—AOC or VDQS—as well
the disease. However, doing so was not
as many local ow renown wines such as Bergerac—AOC in 1936—
an option, as too expensive to many small
and Madiran—AOC in 1948—or Cahors—AOC in 1971.
vintners. Note: AOC means ‘Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée’ and has been since replaced by the term AOP, ‘Appellation d’Origine Protégée’, Protected Designation of Origin. To receive this PDO status, a wine (or other product) needs to be entirely manufactured—throughout the entire process—in the specific designated region. VDQS means ‘Vin de Qualité Supérieure’, meaning wine of higher quality, a term frequently used to design a wine that might not have received a higher designation yet.
Source: Wikipedia
AVEYRON WINES There are four different vineyards in Aveyron: the Côtes de Millau, Estaing, Entraygues and the Fel, and the Marcillac. Millau Viaduct
Côtes de Millau
Avignon at these times, and eighty cellars were existing As a paradox it is the 1956’s frost that would revive the in Compeyre or nearby. Local aristocracy as well looked at moribund vineyard. The only producers left were the ones very motivated by viticulture. They planted grapes of high quality, The Côtes de Millau vineyard dates from Roman times, when getting more vineyards around Millau. rediscovered local varieties and introduced the Syrah variety. Millau as Condatomagus under the Roman Empire, was a major Gaulish centre of samian pottery production as excava- When the French Revolution occurred, wines were produced A wine cooperative got created and the wine got a new tions at the site of La Graufesenque unveiled. to serve the needs of larger crowds. In the 1870s, the trademark the Côtes de Millau. In 1994, it became recognized vineyard got under attack of phylloxera. As well, railway and was awarded the label VDQS—wine of higher quality. During the Middle Ages, vineyards’ production was mainly brought competitors with cheap wine arriving by train from serving the needs of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de neighbouring region Languedoc. Many vineyards acreages Compostella, as well as the clergy. The wines produced got dropped or new varieties introduced. Again, during WWI at Compeyre were appreciated by the Popes located at acreages were abandoned as manpower became scarce.
These wines have a beautiful garnet that’s quite supported by purple hues when young. When smelled, the aromatic bouquet is clean, intense and expressive with good concentration, with some primary notes of red and black fruit with gooseberry, raspberry, prune aromas giving way at times to fruity notes of
Reds (70%) Exceptional years: 2000 and 2005 Very great years: 1995 and 1998 Great years: 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2008, and 2009 Good years: 2002, 2004, and 2011 Average years: 2006, 2007, 2010, and 2012.
brandy, as well as spicy, peppery. As it ages this wine will offer floral notes. In the mouth the wine has a soft attack, it gradually unfolds mid-palate on a dense material quite generous and fleshy, young tannins are firm and will need time to skate away. This is a very good wine that matches well with game and
grilled meats. Serving temperature is best at 16 ° C, and can be decanted in a carafe. Area: 65 ha Average yearly production over past five years: 2.000 hl
Rosés (25%) Exceptional years: 2000 Very great years: 1995 and 1998 Great years: 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009 Good years: 2002, 2004, and 2011 Average years: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012.
Whites (5%) Exceptional years: 2005 Very great years: 2001 Great years: 1994, 1995, and 1998 Good years: 1997, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2011 Average years: 2002, 2003, and 2010 Below average years: 1996, 2009, and 2012.
Estaing Located on the banks of the river Lot in Aveyron, the vineyard of Estaing is one of the smallest in France. After a long decline, the Estaing wine has rediscovered the acclaim of top vineyard and strong identity thanks to the Counts of Estaing, local aristocrats, during the tenth century. The reds are simple wines, lively and aromatic and well integrated tannins; they do have a few notes of red fruits and blackcurrant. The rosÊs are fresh wines, quite delicate, bright and exhale a fragrant filled with aromas of red berries. The whites are well-balanced wines, light and lively with oral and honey aromas. Area: 20 ha Average yearly production over past five years: 620 hl
Estaing (Source: http://bit.ly/1mhZPwK)
Reds (70%) Year of the century: 2005 Exceptional years: 2000 Very great years: 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1998, and 2011 Great years: 1966, 1970, 1971, 1975, 1976, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, and 2009 Very good years: 1978, 1981, 1994, 2002, and 2004 Good years: 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012 Average years: 1967, 1973, 1980, 1984, 1987, and 1993 Below average years: 1969, 1977, and 1991.
Whites (10%) Exceptional years: 1998, 1990, and 2005 Excellent years: 1983, 1985, and 1989 Very great years: 1975, 1976, and 2001 Great years: 1966, 1970, 1979, 1981, 1982, 1986, 1994, 1995, 1998, and 2011 Very good years: 1971, 1978, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, and 2008 Good years: 1980, 1993, 2002, 2003, 2010, and 2012 Average years: 1967, 1973, 1977, 1991, 1992, 1996, and 2009 Below average years: 1969, 1984, and 1987.
RosĂŠs (20%) Exceptional years: 2000 Very great years: 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, and 1998 Great years: 1966, 1970, 1971, 1975, 1976, 1978, 1985, 1988, 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009 Very good years: 1973, 1979 1981, 2002, 2004, and 2011 Good years: 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012 Average years: 1967, 1969, 1980, 1984, 1987, and 1993 Below average years: 1977, and 1991.
Estaing
Entraygues-sur-Truyère
Entraygues and the Fel This little known vineyard has been existing since the Middle Ages. Indeed, the wines of Entraygues were known in France since at least the 8th century. These wines, mainly developed by abbeys, such as Conques, were shipped around Europe especially in England. The vineyard is located north of the Aveyron, the foothills of Cantal and Aubrac. The vines are planted on valleys of the Lot and Truyère, on hillsides with steep slopes. They consist of shale and clay-limestone elements. The main grape varieties for red and rosé wines are Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chenin and Mauzac for the whites.
Area: 20 ha Average yearly production over past five years: 640 hl
The red Fel Entraygues has a deep red colour, smells some notes of black fruits like blackcurrent. When in mouth this wine develops an austere and rustic aroma of red and black fruits. The rosé Fel Entraygues appears simple and very fruity, with an overall taste of pink salmon. When smelled, red fruits such as gooseberry and raspberry emerge. Once tasted its refreshing liveliness comes alive. The white Fel Entraygues is quite an interesting wine with a pale yellow colour and green hues. It has an intense and straight smell but complex with floral notes and honey aromas. When tasted, it is dense, supple and has a beautiful final aromatic taste left in mouth.
Reds (60%) Exceptional years: 2000, and 2005 Very great years: 1970, 1975, 1976, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1998, and 2011 Great years: 1966, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, and 2009 Very good years: 1971, 1978, 1981, 1994, 2002, and 2004 Good years: 1967, 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2027, 2008, and 2010 Average years: 1969, 1973, 1977, 1980, 1984, 1993, and 2012 Below average years: 1987, and 1991.
RosĂŠs (20%) Exceptional years: 2000 Very great years: 1970, 1976, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, and 1998 Great years: 1966, 1971, 1975, 1978, 1981, 1985, 1988, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009 Very good years: 1979, 1994, 2002, 2004, and 2011 Good years: 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012 Average years: 1967, 1969, 1973, 1977, 1980, and 1993 Below average years: 1984, 1987, and 1991.
Whites (20%) Exceptional years: 1998, 1990, and 2005 Excellent years: 1983, 1985, and 1989 Very great years: 1976, and 2001 Great years: 1966, 1970, 1971, 1975, 1981, 1982, 1986, 1995, and 1998 Very good years: 1978, 1979, 1994, and 1997, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2011 Good years: 1967, 1980, 1993, 2002, 2003, 2010, and 2012 Average years: 1969, 1973, 1984, 1987, 1992, 1996, and 2009 Below average years: 1977, and 1991.
Entraygues-sur-Truyère
Marcillac
Marcillac red has a deep colour and violet hues. Its smell is marked by aromas
Marcillac is the largest wine area of
of red fruits like raspberry, blackcurrant as
Aveyron. One can find reds and rosés
well. When smelled a second time spicy
wines only. They are characterized by the
notes are emerging. When tasted this
typical grape Fer Servadou, an emblem-
wine is robust on the palate with some
atic grape vineyard found in south west
rusticity, tannins are firm but powerful.
France. The vines are planted on very steep slopes closeby the town of Rodez.
Marcillac rosé is not as common as red
Area: 200 ha Average yearly production over past five years: 6700 hl
but has a beautiful deep pink colour. When tasted it has a very round texture of ripe, juicy red fruits, finishing on spicy notes of pepper.
Reds (90%) Year of the century: 2005 Exceptional years: 2000 Very great years: 1990, 1995, and 1998 Great years: 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, and 2009 Very good years: 2002, 2004, and 2011 Good years: 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2010 Average years: 1991, 1993, and 2012
Claivaux d’Aveyron
Rosés (10%) Exceptional years: 2000 Very great years: 1990, 1995, and 1998 Great years: 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009 Very good years: 1994, 2002, 2004, and 2011 Good years: 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012 Average years: 1993 Below average years: 1991
AVEYRON MAGAZINE
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