Experience Ha Ling Peak

Immortalized in Rock: Looming west of Canmore, Ha Ling Peak (2408 m) is the northernmost summit of Éhagé Nakoda Range. This translates to “the last Nakoda,” and recounts the legend of a warrior who was transformed into rock so that he could stay on Earth after all others left. When the lighting is just right on the cracks and crags of Ha Ling Peak, you may discern the outline of this man, the last Nakoda, looking north. It is only fitting that the other officially named peak of the Éhagé Nakoda Range, Mt Lawrence Grassi, commemorates yet another man of the Earth – a Canmore miner, an Italian immigrant, and railway worker, who built many trails in the Rockies in the 1920s and 1930s.

Photo Courtesy of Graeme Pole

A Sure Bet: Ha Ling was a cook who, in 1896, accepted a 50 dollar bet that he could not climb this mountain in less than ten hours and plant a flag on its summit. Ha Ling reportedly began his climb from town at 7:00am and was back for a late lunch. The flag was too small to be seen from town. Next day, Ha Ling led a party of skeptics to the summit where he planted a larger pennant beside its predecessor and collected on the bet – a fortune in that time.

A century later, the peak was swirling in controversy. Locals had long known the mountain as Chinaman’s Peak, and that became official in 1980. In 1989, Chinese Canadians began to voice offence. The issue simmered for eight years until the Alberta Historic Resources Board held two public meetings, one in Calgary, one in Canmore, to hear submissions. The overwhelming response was that the name, Chinaman’s Peak, was derogatory. The Board rescinded the name and a year later made the name Ha Ling Peak official.

Trailhead: These days, for those who are fit mountain hikers, it is relatively straightforward to retrace Ha Ling’s route to the summit. Park at the Goat Creek Day Use area, 8.8 km from downtown Canmore, and 5.2 km past the Nordic Centre. The trail begins across the road.

Photo Courtesy of Tanya Koob

The trails to Ha Ling Peak are being rebuilt in 2019. In terms of hiking experience, about all that you can expect on a trail that gains 743 m in 3.9km is a solid workout. You certainly get that, as do the members of Canmore’s athletic crowd, for whom the outing is a training ground.

As you break through treeline, views open up over the Spray Valley and into Goat Creek valley. On a clear day, the skyline view north will include Mt. Temple (3544m) and some of the Wenkchemna Peaks near Moraine Lake. The track scrapes over shale and small ledges to “the saddle,” at the 3.6 km mark. The route to the summit swings northeast (left). Straight ahead to the southeast, a track leads to “Miner’s Peak”.

The final 300m is a steep, diagonal grind. To your right, the world falls away into the Bow Valley, revealing a panoramic vista, from Lac des Arcs in the southeast, to near Cascade Mountain in the north. The principal summit of Mt. Rundle (2980m) rises above the minor summits on its south ridge.

Alpine cinquefoil and purple mountain saxifrage brighten the gray limestone of the summit. Least chipmunks may make raids on your lunch. Please do not feed them or throw anything over the east face. Climbers may be below. If you are comfortable in high places and if the day is fair, you might want to tag the summit of “Miner’s Peak” (0.6 km round-trip from “the saddle”, with 50 m elevation gain) before taking the plunge back to the trailhead.

Photo Courtesy of Tanya Koob

Grassi’s Handiwork If you would like to explore above Canmore without tackling the heights, try the Grassi Lakes trail. Park at the Grassi Lakes Day Use Area, 1 km past the Nordic Centre. Lawrence Grassi built much of this 4.2 km loop in the 1920s. It ascends steeply and along cliff edges to the twin lakes at the base of a limestone wall. En route, you have many fine views of Canmore and the Bow Valley.

By: Graeme Pole

Caution when hiking to Ha Ling Peak: Fall risk! Avoid this trail when it is windy, when the summit is cloud-capped, when electrical storms are forecast, or when the track is icy. The last 300 m of trail is unmaintained. Take great care at the summit.

In 2018, Alberta Parks implemented a full mountain closure in order to realign the Ha Ling Peak hiking trail. We anticipated that their work would be completed by the time of printing, but the closure is still in effect. Until it is lifted, we recommend these 3 options in the area as great alternatives: the East End of Rundle Mountain, Grassi Lakes or Goat Creek.