WINTER HOLIDAY S GU ID E
Your guide to hitting the road this WINTER
WINTER ROAD TRIPS
LOOS WITH VIEWS
TOP END CAMPING
AND MORE
AUSTRALIA IS WONDERFULLY ACCOMMODATING FOR WINTER TRAVEL If you prefer to stay warm all year-round simply head to the north of the country, where the temperatures are balmy and the water won’t freeze anything off.
If you like to relax in winter and save the adventuring for summer, then Australia has some country towns that were made for cottages with armchairs in front of log fires. If you prefer to play it cool, then there are a few ski resorts in New South Wales, Victoria and Tasmania where you can practise all the death-defying snow jumps you like. There’s simply (s)no(w) excuse for staying at home. In our Winter Holidays Guide, we cover the best winter road trips (including one that’s more epic than the Stuart Highway), discover the hottest town in Australia, glamp and camp, reveal our favourite winter towns and more. Let us know your winter travel plans on Facebook or Twitter. Happy travelling! The Explore Australia team
Acknowledgements Editor Lauren Whybrow Designer Julie Thompson Photography credits Cover: A boabtree near the Cockburn Ranges, Tourism Western Australia; back cover: Windjana Gorge, Windjana Gorge National Park, Tourism Western Australia; contents page: Kimberley Heath (Calytrix exstipulata), Tourism Western Australia; pg. 5 top: Sunset, Greg Snell; pg. 5 bottom: Cockburn Range and boab tree, Tourism Western Australia; pg. 6: The Marble Bar near Marble Bar, Tourism Western Australia; pgs 8–10: All images credit Marion Halliday; pg 10: Couple riding on Home Valley Station, located west of Kununurra, Tourism Western Australia; pg 11 left: Roar and Snore
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Taronga Zoo, Sydney, Taronga Zoo; pg 11 right: Sal Salis, Ningaloo Reef, Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, Tourism Western Australia; pg 12: Dales camping area, Lyndon Sparrow; pg 13: Gunlom camping area, Lyndon Sparrow; pg 14: Wombat Hill House restaurant, Mark Chew/Tourism Victoria. Explore Australia Publishing Pty Ltd is a division of Hardie Grant Publishing Pty Ltd All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of both the copyright owners and the above publisher of this guide. Publisher’s note: We love to hear from our readers. Email us here: info@exploreaustralia.net.au
CONTENTS TOP 4 WINTER ROAD TRIPS
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WELCOME TO MARBLE BAR, HOTTEST TOWN IN AUSTRALIA
6
AUSSIE LOOS WITH VIEWS
8
TOP 5 CROC-FREE SWIMMING HOLES
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TOP STATION STAYS
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TOP 16 WINTER CAMPING SPOTS
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GLAMPING: THE ROYALS HAVE DONE IT, HOW ABOUT YOU? LET IT SNOW: THE BEST TOWNS TO VISIT IN WINTER WINTER BOOKSHOP
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HIT THE ROAD, JACK
Top 4 winter road trips Sure, you could spend winter relaxing in front of an open fire, with a good red and a good book – or you could hop in your car and get out onto roads that are best explored in winter. Here are four winter road trips that will warm your car engine and your cockles.
Gibb River Road, Western Australia Although you can only drive on Gibb River Road in the dry season (generally most of winter), the trip is anything but dry, with river crossings, spectacular waterfalls and gorges. Gibb River Road starts in Derby and continues for over 600km through the Kimberley to Kununurra, which is the gateway to Bungle Bungles. It’s an epic journey, although maybe not as epic as you think (it’s certainly no Burke and Wills expedition), because parts of the road are covered in bitumen and regular maintenance work is carried out in peak season to make sure the road stays in good condition. Having said that, it’s a (mainly) dirt road through one of the most remote areas in Australia, so you’ll earn your adventure badge after completing the drive.
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Stuart Highway, South Australia and Northern Territory Start in the cold and end in the warmth as you drive the Stuart Highway from Adelaide to Darwin. Unlike many other winter treks, the Stuart Highway is all-vehicle accessible, from a push bike up to the biggest road trains in the country. At over 3000km long, you’ll be glad of the good road conditions by the end of your drive. So, what will you see if you travel this section of Highway 1? Be prepared for long stretches of similar landscapes, spiced up by some of the best roadside attractions in the world, from Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles) to the thermal springs at Mataranka, to the Red Centre itself (and its centre, Alice Springs).
The Savannah Way, Queensland, Northern Territory and Western Australia The Bungle Bungles. Lake Argyle. Katherine Gorge. Bitter Springs. The Lost City. Lawn Hill Gorge. Undara Lava Tubes. Atherton Tablelands. These are only some of the attractions you’ll come across on the whopping 3700km Savannah Way. This is some of the most remote and wild country in Australia, with all the spectacular beauty you’d expect of a route passing through Arnhem Land and the Kimberley. Connecting Cairns and Broome, the Savannah Way is a series of connecting highways and roads. It’s mainly
2WD-accessible, except for the stretch connecting Queensland to the Northern Territory which is a serious dirt road with river crossings – just what you need to spice up the trip.
Murray River, Victoria Although not quite as dramatic as the rivers on the Savannah Way, the Murray is the steady brown heart line of the southern states. Starting in the alpine region, it meanders its way along the border of Victoria and New South Wales before crossing into South Australia. Just like the Murray River, you should take your time enjoying this stretch of country. Start in the booming town of Wodonga or across the river in pretty Albury (the more famous of the twin towns), pass through Rutherglen and sample some famous port before heading portside in Echuca (make sure you take a ride on Echuca’s famous paddlesteamers). Continue your current alongside the river all the way to the major town of Mildura in the north-west of Victoria. For more information on road trips, take a look at our Road Atlas of Australia. WINTER HOLIDAYS GUIDE
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Welcome to Marble Bar, hottest town in Australia
If all the towns in Australia entered a ‘Hot or Not’ competition, Marble Bar would definitely be hot. Its reputation for being the hottest town in Australia comes from early in the twentieth century, when Marble Bar recorded temperatures of over 38 degrees for 161 consecutive days. Things have cooled down a bit since then – while the town regularly reaches 45 degrees in summer, the locals normally have a day or two of relief in between. Marble Bar is itself a relief, an oasis of modern amenities in the middle of a particularly sparse stretch of the Pilbara. It is, of course, a mining town. But it is nowhere near the scale of the major mining towns in this region like Port Hedland or Karratha, and is, quite frankly, charming, from its heritage-listed buildings to the native-tree nursery on the outskirts of town. There’s even a heritage-listed pub, built during the gold rush. The Iron Clad Hotel is over 120 years old, although luckily the cool beverages it sells aren’t quite the same age. Unlike gold-rush-era buildings on the east coast of Australia, for instance the spectacular hotels in Ballarat and Bendigo, the Iron Clad Hotel is built on a smaller scale. Imagine an outback pub on a dusty outback road, whack a few corrugated iron panels on it and you’ll have something close to the Iron Clad Hotel. But if a drink is not cutting it and you need full body immersion to escape the heat, Marble Bar has a few ridiculously scenic swimming holes. Marble Bar Pool and its neighbouring Chinaman’s Pool are only 4 km from town. You’ll also find jasper bar at the Marble Bar Pool. The town was named after the bar, as the jasper was 6
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originally thought to be marble. Splash some water on the rock to bring out the colours, but don’t take any – the rock is protected. Somewhere that wasn’t quite as protected as jasper bar was Comet Gold Mine, which operated from 1936 to 1955. It’s now a museum, and you can take underground tours daily. Another, less well-known historical site near Marble Bar is an old WW II airbase. It’s not operational anymore, so you can visit and wander around at your leisure. If you do visit Marble Bar in winter hoping to soak up some of those 45 degree days, you’ll probably be disappointed. The town has quite a mild winter. You might not find marble when you visit Marble Bar, but you will feel like you’ve struck gold. Discover how easy it is to get to Marble Bar with UBD Gregory’s Western Australian street directory.
Top 5 croc-free swimming holes
Want to cool down in a croc-free swimming hole after exploring the hot spots of the Northern Territory? We’ve picked five swimming holes across the Territory that are (normally) croc free.
Berry Springs, Berry Springs Nature Park
Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges National Park
The natural springs at Berry Springs Nature Park couldn’t look more like a picture-perfect oasis if they had been designed by Disney. An emerald pool fringed by jungle green is exactly what a Disney princess – or anyone, really – would want to swim in after an exhausting day exploring the Northern Territory. Only 50km from Darwin, Berry Springs doesn’t have any crocs (although you should always read the warning signs), and has several easily accessible pools ranged along Berry Creek.
Phhheww, we’re in the Red Centre – you don’t have to worry about crocs here. Ormiston Gorge is in West MacDonnell National Park. You’ll also find swimming holes at Ellery Creek Big Hole and Redbank Gorge (where you can float through the narrow enclosing walls) in the park. The biggest risk at this swimming hole is that you’ll be so transfixed by the red walls rising above the water (especially if you’re there at sunrise or sunset) and the fringing gums that you’ll stay in the water too long and get hypothermia, a serious concern at these chilly spots.
Gunlom Pool, Kakadu National Park If crocodiles have a spiritual home in the imaginations of most Australians, it would be at the wildly beautiful Kakadu National Park. And yup, you’ll find crocodiles in most waterholes and rivers and wetlands here. But there is a pool, hidden at the top of a waterfall, that you can only find after a steep hike up. You might think that Gunlom Pool is a mirage, but the cold water will soon shock you out of that. Relax in the water while enjoying panoramic views over the park. While crocs are rare this high, it’s always a possibility, so be careful.
Wangi Falls, Litchfield National Park Disclaimer: there sometimes are crocs at Wangi Falls. It’s one of the designated swimming areas in Litchfield National Park, along with Buley Rock Hole, Florence Falls, Walker Creek and the Cascades. But as one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Northern Territory, this swimming spot is monitored by rangers and has a permanent croc trap just upstream, although you should always be cautious and follow the warning signs. As for the swimming hole itself? At the bottom of a charming waterfall, it’s a picturesque spot, with trees clinging to the volcanic-looking rocks.
Leliyn (Edith Falls), Nitmiluk National Park Nitmiluk National Park has a permanent condition of being stuck between a rock and a hard place. The national park is a series of interconnected gorges, the most famous of which is Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk is a popular canoeing destination, but it’s not too shabby for swimming either, with swimming spots being open in dry season at Leliyn (Edith Falls) and Sweetwater Pool. With a waterfall and a large pool with easy access, you’ll definitely want to cool off here. Freshwater crocs are common in the park, but while saltwater crocs hang out here in the wet season, rangers move them on in dry. But, as with any swimming hole in the Top End, be cautious and read the warning signs before you swim.
Find out how to get to these swimming holes as quickly as possible with UBD Gregory’s South Australian and Northern Territory street directory.
WINTER HOLIDAYS GUIDE
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Aussie LooS with Views
Do you like your loos to come with views? Here are some of the most scenically situated dunnies around Australia from the new book Aussie Loos with Views by Marion Halliday.
Kata Tjuta
Lord Howe Island
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Kalbarri National Park
Loo on the Larapinta Trail, Ormiston Gorge
Charlotte Pass
Rainbow Valley
Find out more about the book worth holding on for in Aussie Loos with Views. WINTER HOLIDAYS GUIDE
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Home Valley Station, Gibb River Road
Top station stays
Station yourself at one of these working stations for a glimpse into life in Australia’s outback.
Bond Springs Outback Retreat, Northern Territory In the MacDonnell Ranges, historic Bond Springs Outback Retreat offers cottage and homestead accommodation on its 1515 sq km Hereford beefgrazing property. Country cooking served in the traditional homestead kitchen is a highlight.
Bullo River Station, Northern Territory This cattle property covers 2000 sq km, a wild domain of grassy plains, hidden gorges, river frontages, and masses of birds and animal life. Exceptional fishing, mustering in season and tours of the station’s Aboriginal rock art are highlights of a stay here. There is homestead accommodation, but no camping.
Kingfisher Camp, Queensland In the isolated Gulf Country, Kingfisher Camp is on Bowthorn Station, a working cattle property where
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Brahman crossbreeds are mustered by helicopter and motorbike. Peaceful (and bountiful) fishing is the big lure here.
Curtin Springs Station, Northern Territory Although only offering camping and basic accommodation at its roadhouse, there are 4WD and tag-along tours where you can see the historic property (in the Severin family for three generations) and marvel at monumental Mount Conner up close.
Home Valley Station, Western Australia On Western Australia’s famously remote Gibb River Road, Home Valley Station is a working cattle station that has accommodation and activities that are anything but cattle class. You can stay in the homestead, safari tents or in the camping ground. The station offers boating, horseriding, tours and access to some seriously good fishing.
GLAMPING: the royals have done it, how about you?
How would you like to stay in a tent that has been set up for you, with catering, cleaning, a heater in winter – and your own bathroom? This is fancy camping (with the price tag to match).
Bamurru Plains, Mary River, Northern Territory
Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia
Just outside of Kakadu National Park, there are only nine safari lodges at Bamurru Plains. Like regular camping, the mesh walls are the only things separating you from the nature of the Top End. But unlike regular camping, you’ll have a solid floor, a bed and a high-pressure shower. Oh, and there’s also the catered meals (three course, if you please) and personalised tours into the floodplains.
Ranged in the sand dunes facing Ningaloo Reef and cushioned by the ochre hills of Cape Range National Park, the nine safari tents of Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef have some of the best views on this stretch of coast. They are also fancier than any other tent you’ll see on this stretch of coast, with solid beds, bathrooms and catered meals.
Roar & Snore, Taronga Zoo, Sydney, New South Wales What’s better? Watching the sun set over Sydney’s magnificent harbour, complete with bridge and opera house, or waking up to a behind-the-scenes tour of the zoo? At Taronga Zoo’s Roar & Snore you can have both, as well as a luxury safari tent where you can dream of lions and tigers and bears (oh my).
Roar & Snore, Taronga Zoo
Longitude 131, Uluru, Northern Territory Is the sun lighting up Uluru the best wake-up call in the world? The luxury ‘tents’ at Longitude 131 are the closest accommodation to the rock, and have a view that’s priceless (and very pricey). Apart from that, Longitude 131 has all the fancy things we’ve come to expect from a glorified tent (that has solid walls) – all meals catered, spectacular activities and the most luxurious bed under a canvas roof you could expect.
Sal Salis, Ningaloo Reef
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Dales camping area, Karijini National Park
Top 16 winter camping spots
Want to camp without freezing your tent pegs off this winter? We’ve picked the best winter campsites in Queensland, Northern Territory and Western Australia.
Lawn Hill Gorge camping area, Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, Queensland 1
It’s hot, dusty – and incredibly beautiful. This is an oasis in the outback, with a palm-fringed emerald river hiding in a gorge. Lawn Hill Gorge camping area is the best camping area in the national park and has 20 sites ranged next to the creek.
Darlington Park camping area, Beaudesert, Queensland 2
Maureen’s Cove camping area, Whitsundays National Park, Queensland 5
It’s the holy grail of travel – good budget accommodation within an expensive tourist precinct. The campsites in Whitsundays National Park are one such accommodation option. Boat-access-only Maureen’s Cove camping area is on the north coast of Hook Island. It has limited facilities, but swell snorkelling just offshore.
MV Sarawak camping area, Inskip Peninsula Recreation Area, Queensland 6
This family-friendly gem is in the Gold Coast hinterland. With plenty of space and facilities, Darlington Park camping area is a popular site.
Dog-friendly and suitable for large groups, these campsites with a view (looking onto Fraser Island) might have limited facilities but that has not limited their popularity. Well worth a visit.
Platypus Bush Camp, Finch Hatton Gorge, Queensland
Camerons Corner camping area, Queensland
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You might not catch a glimpse of Australia’s most elusive native creature (the platypus!) at this enchanting rainforest campground, but less elusive features here include hot showers with views, treehouses and a camp kitchen.
Babinda Creek camping area, Babinda, Queensland 4
Find water you can swim in at Babinda Creek camping area, a family-friendly camping area with good facilities nestled next to a creek south of Cairns.
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Camerons Corner camping area is the point where Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet – it’s also on the edge of the Stuart Desert, so you know it’s hot. There are top-notch facilities and a store here.
Carnarvon Gorge camping area, Carnarvon National Park, Queensland 8
Gorge yourself on the views at Carnarvon Gorge, and then head back to Carnarvon Gorge camping area for the night. Only open during certain school holidays, this campground has good facilities and good access to the main attraction in the park.
Punsand Bay Camping Resort, Cape York, Queensland
(it’s greener than you’d expect), the facilities and amenities are good, and if you go for two nights, you’ll often end up staying for four.
It’s a long way to the top, but the drive is worth it for views like these – and for the experience of being at the tip of Australia. Punsand Bay Camping Resort is the closest campground to the northernmost point of Australia, and has tip-top facilities and activities.
Dales camping area, Karijini National Park, Western Australia
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Gunlom camping area, Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory 10
This is one of the best camping areas in Kakadu, and not just because it has great facilities (although it does). No, this camping area is at the base of Gunlom Falls, where the views are remarkable and the waters are normally croc free.
Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary, Gibb River Road, Western Australia 11
Around 95km off Gibb River Road, down a well-graded road, this campsite is run by the not-for-profit Australian Wildlife Conservancy. It’s basic but beautiful, with shady sites ranged next to the river. And, as the name suggests, it’s a hang-out for local wildlife, as well as being close to gorges and other gorge-ous vistas.
Kooljaman camping area, Cape Leveque, Western Australia 12
Does it get much better than this? You’ll have to go and see for yourself. The campground in Cape Leveque Wilderness Camp is suitably remote and beautiful
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Karijini National Park is the jewel in the desert crown of the Pilbara region. On first glance, the national park seems to be red desert and shrubs. But the mountainous national park is hiding gorges with jewel-toned swimming holes and waterfalls. Dales camping area is near some of the best sights in the park, and has good facilities.
Surprise Creek Falls camping area, Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory 14
It wouldn’t surprise us if you fall in love with this remote and basic campsite in Litchfield National Park, if only for its access to a swimming hole.
Butterfly Springs camping area, Limmen National Park, Northern Territory 15
The three best things about this camping area are that it’s free, the spring that the campsite is named for is enchanting (and the only place to safely swim in the park), and it has a large population of butterflies that will flutter around you like you’re Snow White. A short distance off the Savannah Way, you can only stay at this campsite in dry weather.
Ormiston Gorge camping area, West MacDonnell National Park, Northern Territory 16
This camping area has one of the most scenic toilets you’ll find in Australia – and apart from that, it has great access to Ormiston Gorge, one of the Red Centre’s best known swimming holes.
Gumlom camping area, Kakadu National Park
Discover hundreds more places to camp in Camping around Australia (2nd ed) and app. WINTER HOLIDAYS GUIDE
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Let it snow: the best towns to visit in winter Do you want to slow down and embrace the winter season? Here are the best towns in Australia for a winter holiday – and in some of these towns it even snows!
Katoomba, Blue Mountains, New South Wales High in the hills above Sydney is sleepy Katoomba, an enchanting village that feels like it is straight out of an Enid Blyton novel, complete with tea rooms, tartanwearing locals and air of mystery. Oh, and occasional snow! It snows here a couple of times a year, although the coating of white frost every morning might trick you into thinking it snows more than it really does. With only light snow, you’re not going to be skiing down the streets or building snowmen. Katoomba’s winter is the sort you embrace by curling up in front of a fire, tea-room hopping or by attempting one of the many walks starting at Echo Point. To really get the blood 14
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pumping, we suggest the Giant Staircase, which has 800 steps down to the valley floor. You’ll really deserve your scone with jam and cream after this walk.
Hahndorf, Adelaide Hills, South Australia The hills are alive with the sounds, smells and buildings of Europe – or at least they are in the Adelaide Hills. Only 30 minutes from Adelaide, the hills have a few towns with various European influences. There’s Strathalbyn, which is a wee bit Scottish, and then there’s Germanic Hahndorf. And if there’s anyone who knows how to do winter, it’s the Germans. We’re talking mulled wine, log fires and delicious bread.
While it might not snow in Hahndorf proper (snow is more likely on nearby Mt Lofty), the town does get chilly, so you’ll need to rug up. Explore the town’s historic buildings, including the residence of artist Hans Heysen.
Daylesford, Spa Country, Victoria This is spa country, where the waters are thermal and the antiquing is hot. While there are 72 thermal springs around the area, you’ll want to visit a bathhouse where they heat up the water for you, although the alleged healing benefits are free. You can have a good time in Daylesford even if you don’t want to take your clothes off. Only a short drive from Melbourne, it’s one of the most popular holiday towns in the state. Eat at one of the great restaurants, meander around the shops or wake up and smell the lavendar at the local botanic gardens. You won’t even notice that there’s no snow.
Thredbo, Kosciusko National Park, New South Wales Snow way you can do better than Thredbo when it comes to facilities and access to ski fields. It’s the most famous winter town in the country, and should be top of your list if you want a proper winter vacation. The closest town to Mt Kosciuszko, Thredbo has the longest ski runs in Australia, as well as slopes for beginners. More than that, the town has a charming village feel, so if sitting in front of a log fire with hot chocolate is more your scene than hitting the slopes, Thredbo has you covered.
Stanthorpe, Granite Belt, Queensland Forget everything you’ve heard about following the winter sun into Queensland – you can also follow the
winter snow up into Stanthorpe. The main town in the booming Granite Belt, only a couple of hours south-west of Brisbane, Stanthorpe has been known to get snow on occasion. But even if you don’t get flurries, you’ll still be feeling the chill; the town is settled into the mountains that range along the border between Stanthorpe and New South Wales’s New England region, and is thought to have the coldest weather in Queensland. The Granite Belt region is famous for its produce, and eating and drinking is the main appeal of this heritage town. Of course, if you get sick of cellar doors after a while, the town has art galleries, historic buildings and access to adventure activities in the mountains.
Evandale, Midlands, Tasmania Evandale is a heritage-listed Georgian town 20 minutes from Launceston and 40 minutes from Ben Lomond National Park (which has the best ski fields in Tasmania). There’s something about classical Georgian buildings that just feels right in winter, and this town has some of the notable examples in the country, including Clarendon House, a building that is sure to have you saying, ‘I want one of those’. Wander around town, pop into a cafe for a warming drink – or take advantage of the fact that you’re very close to some of the many attractions in the midlands.
Can’t decide what to explore in Australia? Use the book that has been guiding travellers since 1980, Explore Australia 2015. WINTER HOLIDAYS GUIDE
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WINTER bookshop Take the chill out of winter by planning a holiday!
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TOUR VINE BY VINE
Hungry Campers Cookbook by Katy Holder Hungry Campers Cookbook brings together the fun of family camping holidays with fresh, healthy, gourmet recipes. Find out more RRP: $29.95
BEST FOR WEEKEND GETAWAYS 4WD Australia: 50 Short Getaways by Linda Lee Rathbun and Steven David Miller You don’t have to take a month off to go on a 4WD getaway. Here are some getaways close to major towns you can tackle in a long weekend.
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Walks in Nature: Australia by Viola Design Walks in Nature: Australia covers 112 trails in and around the country’s major cities for those who want to explore the best of our country on foot.
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Boating Survival Guide by Doug King
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HAPPY TRAVELLING