4 minute read
LEVUKA
Laid-back today as it was when the first traders and whalers arrived in the 18 th Century, Levuka is where time stands still.
Fiji’s first capital and first UNESCO World Heritage Site, Levuka is located on the island of Ovalau, east of mainland Viti Levu. Circled by large coral reefs, lush tropical volcanic Ovalau is the country’s sixth largest island, separated by a 20-kilometre wide channel from Viti Levu.
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Levuka and Ovalau are off the main tourist track and is a destination to experience a “trip back in time”. It is a part of Fiji that remains untouched by mass tourism and commerce. It’s still the way Fiji used to be.
32 Wikipedia photo. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji photo.
Levuka was Fiji’s first capital from 1874 until 1883. The rugged mountains surrounding it prevented economic growth and Suva was declared the new capital. Levuka froze in time. In 1989 it was designated a historic town and recognized with UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2013.
Founded by traders and settlers as early as 1830, Levuka became the first permanent European settlement in the Pacific Islands. The place flourished and attracted cotton and coconut planters, sandalwood and bêche-de-mer traders. Merchants arrived to set up shops, bars, and hotels. Schooners packed the harbour, bringing with them traders, adventurers, runaways and convicts.
Compiled by EXPLORE Fiji. Photo: Treasure Island Fiji.
At the time, a bottle of gin sold for a shilling and rum was distilled from the country’s endless sugar cane supply. The town was a riot. It is said that captains of ships arriving into Levuka navigated through the reef by following a line of gin bottles floating out to sea. Local chiefs had trouble to maintain control. In 1874 the King of Fiji, Ratu Cakobau and his fellow chiefs ceded the islands to the Queen of England. Fiji became a British Colony on 10 th October 1874 and Levuka became the first capital. Law and order took over and soon the country’s first school was built, as was the
Mapio.net photo.
opening of the first bank, post office, hospital and municipal government.
Today, Ovalau’s population is around 8,000 of which nearly 25 percent reside in Levuka town. The vast majority are iTaukei (indigenous Fijians), with part-Europeans, Chinese, Indian, Rotuman, Solomon Islanders, Gilbertese, and others representing the balance.
Whether you’re visiting by plane, local ferry or on Captain Cook Cruises Fiji’s MV Reef Endeavour, Levuka is well worth the trip. The old town feel has been preserved through the architecture, and it’s
Captain Cook Cruises Fiji photo.
kept to its roots in order for the more historical elements to shine. While steeped in history, visiting Levuka doesn’t just have to be a lesson in the past, as the town has a lot more to offer.
TOP THINGS TO DO
Levuka community centre and museum Financed by donations of time, money, labour and material from businesses and the Fijian people, the community centre holds special meaning to the people of Levuka. Inside the structure is a branch of the Fiji museum, a public library, crafts centre and meeting hall, among other things.
Nasova
The village of Nasova is the location where Fiji’s Deed of Cession was signed on the 10 th October 1874. The occasion is commemorated in Nasova with three cession stones and a flag pole. Visitors can see the stones celebrating the centenary of the Deed of Cession in 1974 and also Fiji’s independence on 10 th October 1970.
Sacred Heart Church
Even the churches in Levuka are worth looking at! While the building’s architecture is a sight in itself, Sacred Heart Church also features a French clock that strikes twice each hour with a minute pause in between. However, instead of a chime or clang, the clock strikes and lets out… a thud.
Totoga Falls
While Levuka’s architecture tends to take centre stage, there is something to be said for its natural landmarks. Totoga Creek is the source of freshwater for the town and can also be used as a recreational swimming area. Complete with several swimming holes, one of which is lined with concrete, Totoga Creek is a good spot for a quick dip when the mild tropical climate and naturally high humidity gets to you.
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Wikipedia photo.
Royal Hotel
Levuka Royal Hotel is the oldest operating hotel in the South Pacific. The 125-year old hotel is the last remaining one of more than 50 bars and saloons that were built in Levuka’s heyday.
Historic town walking tour
Visit the community centre for this unique opportunity. Once the walk is organised, individuals will set off with a local guide and visit sites like the cession stone, the anniversary bure erected for Prince Charles in 1970 and Fiji’s first schools, churches and hotels.
Compiled by EXPLORE Fiji with information from Levukafiji.com and Captain Cook Cruises Fiji.
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