explorer plorer DECEMBER 2011
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE
Infinite Possibilities Samui’s Newest Hideaway
River Life Cruising the Mekong Driver’s Diary Road Tripping Through California
Outback Adventure
Comfort in the Skies s¬ Fly Fishing in Paradise
Publisher’s Letter
Dear Explorer Readers Welcome to the last issue of Explorer Magazine for 2011. It’s been an exciting year for us, as we bring an increasing number of travellers a host of exciting ideas and stories from the world’s furthest corners. We’ve seen the magazine grow and grow, both in terms of coverage, as well as in the number of readers linking in to read the magazine online, on their smart phones, iPads, tablets, and PCs. In this issue we cruise the highways and by-ways of California, have a spiritual encounter in the heart of the Australian Outback, try our hand at fly fishing in the Maldives, and cruise the Mekong River through Laos. We also find out what inspires the executive chef of the Constance Group in the Indian Ocean, check out Turkish Airlines’ revolutionary new Comfort Class, discover Samui’s newest apartment-style hotel, and search for bargains in the outlets malls of Europe. Wherever you’re headed this festive season, we hope you travel with style and insight, thanks to Explorer Magazine, the world wanderer’s guide. From the whole team, have a safe and Merry Christmas and a great year ahead. David Leung Publisher
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WHAT’S COMING UP
From jazz jams to street carnivals, here are
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Miami Beach Music Festival MIAMI, FLORIDA, DECEMBER 30, 2011 – JANUARY 1, 2012 A massive showcase of classic and contemporary acts, expect plenty of big names to grace the stages at this year’s event. www.orangedr.com
Sydney Festival 2012 SYDNEY AUSTRALIA, JANUARY 1-31, 2012 This annual series of events bring the city together with brilliant large scale outdoors events contrasted by intimate events in venues across the inner city. The opening night, the free Festival First Night, is a feast of music, dance and visual spectacle that brings out the masses. In 2012 look out for the likes of PJ Harvey, Little Match Girl, Eddie Perfect and Beautiful Burnout from the National Theatre of Scotland (pictured). www.sydneyfestival.org.au
Chinese New Year HONG KONG, JANUARY 23, 2012 Easily the region’s largest celebration, Hong Kong is one of the best cities to experience Chinese New Year, with its fire works, parades and bustling flower markets.
The 16th Standard Chartered Hong Kong Marathon HONG KONG, FEBRUARY 5, 2012, HONG KONG With an estimated 70,000 runners competing in both the half and full marathon as well as a 10km fun run, expect the city to come alive for it’s biggest running race of the year. www.hkmarathon.com
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the events people are travelling for this season.
Marlborough Wine Festival MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND, FEBRUARY 11, 2012 Just encase you needed another excuse to head to the Land of the Long White Cloud, the Marlborough Wine Festival in February next year, is New Zealand’s original and most successful wine festival. www.marlboroughwinefestival.co.nz
Rio Carnivale RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL, FEBRUARY 17-21, 2011 Arguably the biggest party on the planet, the annual Carnival in Rio de Janeiro is a chance for Brazil’s samba schools to strut their stuff in front of an international audience. Not for the faint-hearted, organisers expect over two million people on the streets each day. www.rio-carnival.net
Java Jazz Festival JAKARTA, INDONESIA, MARCH 2-4, 2012 Held at the Jakarta International Expo centre, this annual showcase of regional and international jazz performances is a must visit for any Jakarta-bound traveller. Next year’s line up includes Harry Connick Jr, Eric Darius, Stevie Wonder and Tony Bennet and promises to be a jazz jam to remember. www.javajazzfestival.com
Sapporo Snow Festival SAPPORO, JAPAN, FEBRUARY 6-12, 2012 The perfect festival for snow bunnies and families, this is a chance for the Japanese to combine the winter season with their inherent creativity. Look out for some of the most amazing snowmen you’ve every seen!
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THE WORLD IN PHOTOS FESTIVE FLARE: A woman in the Indian state of Rajasthan wears traditional clothing. Credit: Imaginative Traveler
FOUR FOOT DRIVE: Elephants remain a draw card for travellers bound for Thailand, where the animals are considered sacred. Credit: Tropical Sky
AND...SMILE From stunning sunsets to sunken statues, Explorer travels the world through the camera lens. UNDERSEA REDEMPTION: Divers pause beside Christ of the Deep, a replica of Italy’s Christ of the Abyss statue, located off Key Largo in the Florida Keys. Credit: Florida Keys Tourism
FOOTSTEPS: a woman walks along a solitary beach in Fiji, an increasingly popular tropical alternative. Credit: Fiji Tourism 6
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TRANQUILITY: The waters of Lake Bolsena in Tuscany, Italy, calm at he end of a long summer’s day.
SUNSET: Another day ends at the Huntington Pier in Surf City USA.
WATER RACE: The annual tall ship race down Sydney Harbour is an important part of January’s Australia Day celebrations.
PARTY TIME: Revelers take a breather at the annual Trinidad & Tobago Carnival, held on February 20-21, 2012.
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TRAVEL NEWS
TRAVEL Tales From family friendly hotels in the world’s top tropical locales, to the essential gadgets you need when on the road, Explorer has all you need to know before setting off on your next big trip.
World-Class Walking The season for two of Australia’s best walks – the Bay of Fires and the Cradle Mountain Huts Walks of northeastern Tasmania – has begun and intrepid trampers can enjoy some world-class comfort and truly stunning scenery along the way. Both the Bay of Fires Lodge Walk and the Cradle Mountain Huts Walk take in some of Australia’s most amazing landscapes. On the four day Bay of Fires Lodge Walk, travellers will experience pristine white sandy beaches that stretch into the future and grassy windblown heath-lands that make for great
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marsupial spotting. Native birds and marine life such as seals and dolphins are often spotted along the way. Alternatively on the Cradle Mountain Huts Walks, walkers can take in a huge diversity of terrain including rainforest, glacial mountain lakes, steep craggy peaks and alpine meadows. Whats more, walkers can rest their weary bodies in the elegant Alpine style huts on the Cradle Mountain route and at the renowned Bay of Fires Lodge on the Fires route while enjoying the finest Tasmanian wine and produce. www.bayoffires.com.au
Indulgent Isle The stylish Le Meridien Khao Samui has opened on the family-friendly island of Koh Samui in Thailand. Situated overlooking popular Lamai Beach, the new resort brings Le Meridien’s new chic persona to Samui’s east coast, combining feng shui principles with cutting edge design and contemporary interiors. The resort’s 63 spacious suites and 14 stand-alone villas were inspired by traditional Asian villages, and feature private plunge pools, spacious living areas and stunning sea views. The new Le Meridien also boasts three distinct epicurean experiences – Last Recipe, an all-day dining destination, Plunge Bar, a stylish poolside oasis, and Latitude 9, a chic coffee corner – as well as an indulgent day spa, and a 224-meter floating dock which leads to an innovative ocean pool. www.starwoodhotels.com
Coach Comfort Virgin Atlantic has introduced a new economy class cabin. With a fresh new take on in-flight dining, the new-look cabin is part of the airline’s recently announced GBP100 million (US$156 million) product investment. The new service feels much more like restaurant service, with a menu offering a fresh approach to dining, including a number of unexpected delights. A refreshing welcome drink of fruit juices, with or without vodka, served in a fabulous new purple glass, is matched with a brand new menu served on a soft touch, non slip meal tray. On shorter flights a cold breakfast or quintessentially British afternoon tea will now be served, while a separate dessert and hot drink service gives our passengers a more comfortable break between courses. www.virgin-atlantic.com
Family Foray Luxe City Guides, in conjunction with Little Steps Asia, has introduced its latest edition, Little Luxe, designed for families on the go. Packed with family-friendly hotel suggestions, plenty of easy eating restaurants and family shopping essentials, the guide also has the low down on the very best activities across the region – from museums to beaches – to keep kids busy rain or shine. www.luxecityguides.com
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Paris Match Mandarin Oriental has opened its newest luxury property in the City of Lights. The 138-room Mandarin Oriental Paris is located on the famed rue Saint Honoré, near the city’s major entertainment and high end retail precincts. Boasting a magnificently renovated Art Deco façade and architecture by JeanMichel Wilmotte, this boutique beauty features some of the largest and most lavish rooms in the French capital, combining European flair with the brand’s signature Oriental touches. Look out for stylish interiors by Sybille de Margerie and the creative flairs of Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku in the hotel’s two restaurants and bars, including the intimate Sur Mesure and the modern French cuisine of Camélia. www.mandarinoriental.com
Ultimate Itineraries Luxury cruise line Silversea has created a range of ‘Grand Voyages’ in 2012 that will be perfect for the jetset cruiser. The 20 new Grand Voyages are designed specifically for time-rich travelers and extend from 24 to 64 days, reaching the world’s best known ports as well as more than its fair share of off-thebeaten-path locales. Itineraries include Silver Wind’s 53-day Safaris and Mediterranean Sun Coasts voyage from Cape Town to Istanbul, via the likes of Moambique, Morocco, Monte Carlo, Athens and Rome. In Asia, Silver Shadow will offer a 24-day Grand Asia & Australia voyage from Hong Kong to Sydney, with port calls in Vietnam, Singapore, Indonesia and Australia, while in South America, Silver Spirit will offer a 64-day round trip itinerary from Fort Lauderdale, circumnavigating South America, including an overnight in Rio de Janeiro during Carnaval. Silverseas will also offer a 115-day World Cruise, departing January 6, 2012, on Silver Whisper, which will visit 45 ports in 27 countries. www.silverseas.com
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TRAVEL NEWS Two Wheel Tour The Champagne-Ardenne Tourism Board has teamed up with the Michelin Guide to produce a series of exciting new mini-guides aimed at intrepid travellers looking to tour the region’s winelands by motorbike. Travellers can pop on their leathers, hop on a bike and get off the beaten track to heritage sites, vineyards and gastronomic hotspots and enjoy the stunning panoramas of the region on two wheels. Seven itineraries are available including the Road Trip Magazine Champagne route, The Montagne de Reims and Chemin des Dames route and The Great Loop of the Ardennes. Each guide has been put together with the input of experienced bikers with practical maps detailing each section of the route. A helpful fact sheet is included with each section including information on the must-do museums, sites and monuments of the region, as well as great tips on where to eat and stay. The comprehensive guides offer detailed routes with GPS directions and distances for each of the stages. www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk
Overnight Itineraries Understanding the importance of overnight stays for its travellers – especially families - Crystal Cruises’ 2012 itineraries feature a 50 percent increase in overnight ports of call, with many cruises commencing with overnight stays in embarkation ports and 86 percent of voyages including at least one two-day call, meaning more time to explore exotic cities visited. In 2012 the line’s two ships will visit 182 ports, including 20 new destinations, on 60 voyages. New voluntourism shore excursions are also being added, allowing families the chance to help people in need in Italy, Greece, Croatia, Israel, the Canary Islands and Southern California. www.crystalcruises.com
Island Time Naka Island, the newest member of Starwood’s Luxury Collection, opens off Thailand this month, offering a private all-villa escape for Asia’s well-to-do travellers. Nestled among stunning beaches and coconut groves on the island of Naka Yai, off Phuket, the resort is only accessible by speedboat, and features 67 superbly-appointed pool villas. Designed with influence from Thai culture, each villa boasts stunning views across the Unesco-listed Phang Nga Bay and features open-air bathrooms, private plunge pools, spacious outdoor sun decking and private shaded salas. Each villa is serviced by an ‘experience guide’, a private butler, concierge and guest relations officer rolled into one, who can organize excursions, spa appointments or dinner bookings at Tonsai, an all-day dining restaurant, or My Grill, an open beachside seafood grill. www.luxurycollection.com/nakaisland
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Cali Cruising California proves time and time again to be one of the US’ most road trip friendly states.
C
alifornia is the ultimate road trip state and most of the scenic beauty lies outside areas easily accessible by public transport and much of it is in Northern California. The region takes up a third of California’s land mass yet is home to less than a third of the state’s population. This means that visitors can expect to be immersed in nature – from rugged coastline, sprawling vineyards, ancient redwood forests, giant volcanoes and waterfalls. Here are some suggestions for a road trip through Northern California: DAY ONE Pick up your choice of wheels in San Francisco – motor home, convertible or trusty family mover. Head north over the Golden Gate Bridge on Highway 101 and spend the first night in charming Petaluma, one of the best-preserved historic downtowns in the United States. DAY TWO Start the day by hiking in Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve, before picking up supplies at the multitude of wineries along the banks of the Russian River in Sonoma Country. Spend the afternoon driving north and meandering through picturesque beaches and coastal villages like Jenner-by-the-Sea or Manchester Beach.
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DAY THREE Visit the coastal town of Mendocino, stroll through galleries and shops in this artist colony, walk through fern filled canyons at Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, spot seals at the headlands at Fort Bragg or board the Skunk Train for the scenic 60-kilometer journey to Willits and back. DAY FOUR Prepare to be awed. The aptly named Avenue of Giants is a 48-kilometer stretch of Highway One towered by 90-metre tall redwoods. The trees in Humboldt Redwoods State Park are the tallest trees in the world and visitors can get a sense for their enormity at the Meyers Flat Drive-Thru-Tree. On the coast, Humboldt Bay has the oldest Pacific Coast working lighthouse. Overnight in Eureka. DAY FIVE Travel east on Highway 299, the start of the Trinity River Scenic Byway which offers some of the most diverse scenery of any drive in far North California. Outdoor lovers can kayak and hike to waterfalls in Whiskeytown National Recreation Area or marvel at castle-like natural stone turrets at Castle Crag State Park. Everitt Memorial Highway provides breathtaking views of snow-capped Mount Shasta.
DAY SIX Drive one of California’s only All American Roads: the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway. The drive takes you to one of the regions most prized attractions – the 40-metre waterfall at McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park. A couple of hours south is Subway Cave, a 400-metre volcanic lava tube that remains a chilly seven degrees Celsius year round. Overnight at Hat Creek. DAY SEVEN With volcanic pools, mud pots and thermal springs - Lassen Volcanic National Park provides opportunities to witness the results of millions of years of volcanic activity. The park has several hikes including Lassen Peak and Bumpass Hell. Overnight in Redding and stroll down Sacramento River National Recreation Trail where you can marvel at the Sundial Bridge – the largest sundial in the world. DAY EIGHT From Redding, it’s approximately 300-kilometers drive back to the San Francisco. See www.northcoastca.com and www.shastacascade.com
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DIARY
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An Escape Back in Time One of New Zealand’s most luxurious hotels takes its inspiration from time past, discovers Judy Ngao.
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ucked within the heart of New Zealand’s largest city, The Langham Auckland has a location many hotels would die for. Conveniently located within walking distance of the city’s picturesque waterfront, it’s also a hop skip and jump from trendy Ponsonby, known for its chic restaurants, as well as the sprawling Auckland Domain and the historical Auckland War Memorial Museum, one of the city’s most loved landmarks. In fact the Langham has a regal feeling itself, from hotel doormen dressed in long black pea coats, white gloves and top hats, through to a lavish lobby where high tea is served under magnificent chandeliers set in gold domed ceilings.
The rest of The Langham Auckland’s interiors features the same Old World glamour but with modern elements thrown in. The hotel’s 411 rooms are separated into seven types – Classic Room, Executive Room, The Langham Club Room, Studio and Park Suites, Governor and Executive Suites, Royal Suite and The Residence. There is also a dedicated Chuan Haven Suite for wellness buffs. All are luxuriously styled with rich mahogany, lush carpets and plush velvet armchairs, alongside flat screen televisions, iPod docks, wireless internet access and electronic key cards. Although the above-mentioned key cards malfunctioned three times during this reporter’s stay, all was forgotten after a treatment at the NZ$4 million (US$3.2 million) award-winning Chuan Spa. One of the best in the city. Not only in terms of the types of treatments it offers – everything from hydrotherapy rituals and body scrubs to deep tissue massages and traditional Chinese medicine – but also in terms of the service. The spa’s top-notch team of therapists will tailor every step of a client’s treatment to target any ailment or requirement, be it jet lag or a mighty hangover. Should all that pampering ignite your appetite, the hotel boasts four restaurants that offer a variety of cuisines. Among them, Barolo takes the lead with its faultless traditional Piedmontese cuisine. Taking inspiration from the famous wine region in northern Italy, the home of the slow food movement, Barolo serves up exceptional dishes using local ingredients. There is an impressive wine list to choose from, including many local labels. Alternatively, hop over to Eight for some casual dining. The restaurant offers an impressive selection of international cuisine, perfect for those nights when dishes from around the globe sound like a grand idea. The Langham, Auckland, 83 Symonds Street, Auckland Central, New Zealand, Tel: +64 9379 5132, www.langhamhotels.co.nz, from US$205 (plus goods and services tax) per night.
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■ HOTEL
REVIEW
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Where else can you see grazing water buffalo over cocktails or sample food as wild as the landscape? Toss aside the bow-ties, guide books and stilletos and head to Australian Northern Territories for true bush luxury.
Where the Wi
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â– AUSTRALIAN
ld Things Are
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itting under a fan-cooled, Balinese-styled pavilion, ice cold Bombay and tonic in hand and with dinner roasting on a near-by stone camp fire, life’s about as idyllic as you can hope for, in any rugged landscape. Until nature takes it one step further of course, with a Noah’s Ark like procession of wildlife passing just metres in front of the luxury lodge, just as the peach plume sun settles into its daily decent. Now Bamurru Plains, arguably the Territory’s most luxurious game lodge, can’t take credit for the conga line of wild boar, water buffalo and Brumbys (wild horses), but it’s the camp’s marriage with its stunning surroundings that make wildlife spotting here, miles from anything, a certainty rather than a novelty. Located just off the Top End coast of the Northern Territories, and perched on the cusp of the Mary River flood plains, Bamurru Plains offers the ultimate in wild bush luxury and is the perfect place to escape to when the traffic jams, supermarket queues and deadlines become a bit much. Situated on what Territorians would refer to as a “lifestyle block”, the 305sqkm station plays home to all manner of wild life, indigenous and permanent resident; in typical NT fashion, it’s a good 15 minute drive from front gate to front door. Although many of the station’s wellto-do guests choose to arrive via helicopter or light plane, directly to the property’s landing strip, others choose to take the overland route, a dust blown highway which cuts across the brutalized landscape from Darwin, and on which everyone is a visitor, venturing into nature epitomized. After bumping over rutted roads reshaped after the annual flooding, past herds of sun-worshiping Brahmin cattle and the odd inquisitive water buffalo, we arrive at our rather unique accommodation. Forget tents or prefabs more nostalgic of an inner-city primary school – luxurious cabins are perched above the verge of the flood plain, close enough to the main lodge to call for help when your Sauvignon runs low, but far enough not to interfere with your environmental voyeurism. In fact, the design of the lodge is all about nature, bringing guests to the very cusp of the Territory’s famed wildlife. Don’t fret, there are proper beds, air conditioning, fans and a lavish bathroom including a shower of cobble stones that bares an outdoors feel without the unwelcome visitors - but the most important aspect is the cabin’s unique stealth technology! Using an innovative new fabric, guests can enjoy the cool, privacy of their cabin while still viewing the animals for which the station is home. It’s sunrise and coffee and wattle seed muffin are delivered by John, one of the knowledgeable team that city slickers tend to cling to when venturing beyond the infinity pool and fan-driven comforts of the lodge. Many guests take their morning cup of Joe in the “viewing gallery”, the little sun room off the main bedroom in each cabin; tiny, shy wallaby lope around the stilt foundation of the cabin and a short distance away, a female water buffalo splashed through the waters of the flood plain, her young trailing behind her, never more than a few meters from her protection. For the patient, silence will be rewarded with an up close 18
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and personal wildlife encounter the likes few have experienced. Another unique aspect is climbing aboard a real air boat as seen in Miami CSI and basically any other program filmed in Florida. Bamurru is the only place where the common tourist can climb aboard for the ride of a lifetime and the air boats, which are incorporated into the lodge’s packages, take guests to the furthest reaches of the floodplains. With a roar that echos even under the air protectors, the massive Chrystal engine gathers momentum and propels the Teflon-coated hull across the flooded landscape. Clouds of black, squawking magpie geese climb sluggishly from their hidden nests amongst the reeds and gossip from the branches of drowned trees. The air boats glide so effortlessly across the emerald green flood plain which looks, for all intensive purposes, like solid ground, exactly as it is half the year. But when the floods wash trillions of liters of waters down towards the coast, it creates a very special ecosystem, loved by a myriad wildlife. In the shade of an ancient paperbark forest, guests bob on the still, swampy water of John’s favourite picnic spot. The water shimmers like charcoal silk and is home to some of the station’s largest crocodiles so it’s hands inside the boat. According to John, they lurk in the shadows cast by the partially submerged trees, waiting, not for tourists, but for fat Barramundi to swim by. Would-be explorers feast on sun dried tomato quiche, and thick sandwiches of cheese and roasted capsicum – in fact food seems to play a pivotal role at Bamurru, with multi-course dinners every night, breakfasts as wide as your imagination and lunches straight out of a National Geographic. Menus can be rather adventurous; ever thought you’d lunch on terracotta pot pies filled with camel and water buffalo? How about local scallops and crayfish, out on the lodge’s sprawling desk as the day’s warmth ebbs off. Perhaps you’ll earn your meal with
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a particularly stubborn, but ultimately delicious beggar’s chicken? Darren, the lodge’s chef, was the former executive at Darwin’s Parliament House and brings a new-found sense of innovative and culinary challenge that means the local bush tucker is never served al cliché. Aboriginal bush tucker is one of the many topics discussed during the regular outings – from air boats through to the rugged little Toyota cutaway 4x4 which tumbles and grumbles through the bush like a mechanical water buffalo, guests see the true life of the station and learn about their newly adopted surrounds. Guests take turns to pluck the bulbous green business end of a native ant, under our guide’s attentive stare, and taste it’s limy zest, the ancient equivalent of the lime after the tequila shot I’m guessing. Learn how to smoke fish in bark and which berries spell certain death - real boy scout stuff and guests absolutely love it! The two days at Bamurru drift past far too quickly and it’s morning as guests climb aboard a dusty “troopi” for the road back to Darwin – I leave like so many of Bamurru’s guests, with a better understanding of stunningly beautiful land and the harsh realities of the top end, and a definite preference for cocktail hours with a Noah’s procession. How to Get There: Qantas has have regular flights to Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne from major cities around the world, and domestic flights on to Darwin. What to Take: Although everything you could wish for it provided, dress for hot days and cool nights and plenty of sun. When to Travel: May sees the beginning of the best time to travel, with cooler temperatures but with most of the monsoon rains past. www.bamurruplains.com www.explorer-magazine.com
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■ HOLIDAYS
WITH KIDS
A jewel in the Whitsundays, Day Dream Island is the perfect destinations for families looking for fun in the sun.
Island of Day Dreams Q
ueensland was in the news a lot this year, with massive flooding and hurricanes both causing widespread damage. But one little hideaway which managed to navigate the story season unscathed was Day Dream Island. Located a quick 30 minute ferry from Airlie Beach, the gateway to the Whitsundays and the Great Barrier Reef, the resort is perfectly geared for families with children that need constant entertainment, as well as parents who need a little pampering. One of the only eight inhabited islands of the 74 Whitsunday islands, Day Dream is an Aussie icon; split into two separate resorts by a lush belt of rainforest, and wreathed by azure seas and waving palm trees, it offers an affordable yet comfortable escape for travellers from across the Asian Pacific region. It’s a place where there is always something to do; many of the most popular attractions for the little ones are based on the surrounding sea life. The Living Reef, a sizable pool featuring baby sharks and sting rays which children can feed during special feeding sessions, is as educational as it it entertaining. There are over 100 species of marine life on the man-made reef, as well as 50 species of coral and it’s a unique opportunity for children of all ages to get up close to 20
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the likes of sting rays (there are five different types), black tip reef shark pups, and clownfish (aka Nemo). The resort also hosts fish feeding sessions at a lagoon on the island’s northern end where adults and children can take turns feeding Brutus, the resident barramundi.
Afterwards children can hit one of the resort’s many swimming pools, perhaps while mum and dad have a cocktail at the swim up bar. There is also a 19-hole mini golf course, an open air cinema, a rainforest walk and regular events hosted by the cruise ship-like entertainment team. For older kids and adults, there are some great sea activities available, including afford-
able dive courses, guided snorkeling trips, sailing, water polo, beach volleyball and kayaking. There is also jet skiing, wake boarding, para-sailing, and reef fishing for keen anglers. Accommodation is simplistic but comfortable across the resort’s 296 rooms, many of which boast captivating views across the Coral Sea and the scattering of neighboring islands. Room, which come with flat screen televisions, air conditioning and mini bars, come in a variety of configurations, including twin doubles and adjoining rooms, perfectly suited for extended families travelling together. And while the children are thoroughly entertained in the resort’s comprehensive kids club, parents can pack themselves off for some pampering at the resort’s luxurious, award-winning Rejuvenation Spa, with its holistic approach to well being and range of innovative spa rituals. You’ll also eat well on Day Dream; the resort’s signature restaurant Mermaid’s combines the best comfort food with fresh Australian produce, and the seafood has to be tried to be believed. After dinner sit back in the spacious lobby lounge for live entertainment and innovative cocktails served by an international bartending team. www.daydreamisland.com
■ HAVE
YOU TRIED
Tobias Coe finds untapped fishing potential on untouched 0Maldivian atolls.
Isles for the
Anglers
I have a addiction that results in my travelling around the world, searching for a very particular fix, which often raises eyebrows when I describe it. The reason being that I travel vast distances to catch fish and then after a few short seconds, return them to the water. While baffling to many, this is the behaviour of the modern angler and, in particular, fly fishermen. Many people are familiar with the concept of fly fishing, a style of fishing whereby an artificial ‘fly’ is cast into or onto the water in order to tempt the fish residing beneath. Popularised most famously by the Hollywood film ‘A River Runs Through It’, fly-fishing has a rich history that has, in the last few decades, lead to its development in virtually every type of water across the globe.
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■ HAVE
YOU TRIED
The type of fly fishing for which I most often travel is salt water fly fishing, the heavyweight version of the style. Rather than imitating small flies and insects like those used for trout, the ‘flies’ that are cast in salt water mimic prey items such as small fish, prawns and crabs, on which larger fish feed. Using these kinds of patterns, it is possible to catch fish such as snapper, trevally, tuna and even marlin. Within this esoteric pursuit, the holy grail and the biggest reason for my global travel is the chance to stalk what are called ocean ‘flats’. Flats are widespread throughout much of the tropics and are areas of sandy shallows, onto which fish move with the flooding tide, in order to feed. In such an environment it’s possible to see the fish you are trying to catch and then cast a fly directly to them. This style of fishing is incredibly exciting, as well as requiring the greatest level of skill. In pursuit of my next fishing fix, I’m constantly on the look-out for new locations. Living as we do in an apparently ever-shrinking globalised era, one would imagine that they don’t come along very often. However, even places that are already on the map can throw up surprises. And so it was that a few months ago I received a call from a friend of mine about the Maldives and the fly fishing potential of this nation of coral atolls. Mention the Maldives to most people and it will conjure up images of unspoilt beaches and glittering azure waters. To the travelling fly fisherman, such scenes also conjure up images of big fish ghosting across sandy shallows in search of their next meal. However, the Maldives is not a destination that has previously made it onto the global fly fishing map. From the moment we left Male on our short hopper flight to our final destination within Haa Alifu atoll, we were immediately questioning “why not” as we flew over huge expanses of sandy flats, which simply screamed ‘fish’. This fisherman’s instinct proved to be correct from the first afternoon
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we spent out, as we found excellent fishing within a short boat ride from our resort. Throughout our trip we then built up a picture of the fishing available in the surrounding area, until by the time we had to return home we had amassed a respectable catch from our week. This included some lovely reef fish, tuna, giant trevally and a species called ‘bonefish’, a fish which is single-handedly responsible for a global recreational fishing industry valued in the billions of dollars. One of the difficulties for the travelling fisherman is that the pursuit does not typically lend itself to taking along one’s other half or small children. It was therefore an added bonus that the nature of the resorts in the Maldives meant the fishing we enjoyed could be (and was) shared with family, including the two very young sons of my fishing partner for the week. Much as we both enjoy our fishing, there was something extra special about introducing his two boys to the giant trevally I caught on the last day of fishing. Given that it was significantly larger than either of them, it elicited many squawks of excitement as we revived it by the beach before letting it swim off back into the shallows. Getting There: Mega Maldives has regular direct flights to Male and convenient day time arrivals from major Asian hubs, including Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai. www.megamaldivesair.com Fly Fishing: For further information about fly fishing in the Maldives, contact Gerrit Chng Luchau from Island Hideaway on +65 9821 7180; Gerrit@thecollektion.com or Mathews McHugh of Fly Odyssey on +441621 743 711; m.mchugh@flyodyssey.co.uk Where to Stay: Island Hideaway is a family friendly resort located to great fishing grounds: www.island-hideaway.com
â– HIDEAWAYS
Infinite Possibilities
A new development on one of Thailand’s favourite tropical islands promises the ultimate escape for world-weary travellers
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amui is an island experiencing a high-flying come back. Once a popular spot with backpackers headed for the Full Moon Parties on neighboring Koh Phangan, and while there are still plenty of young people making that journey, the island has also managed to reinvent itself as a luxury destination, a move fueled by the recent opening of many five star properties, including W Hotels, Banyan Tree, Conrad and Le Meridien resorts. Another newbie to the island is Infinity Residences & Resort, a chic hilltop retreat that offers sophisticated surrounds for travellers looking to escape. Located in trendy Mae Nam, in the island’s north, and with its award-wining interior designs and architecture, Infinity Residences & Resorts offers the best of both worlds; a world-class resort setting with accommodation that’s well suited for both short and long term stays. Boasting 65 stylish pool villas in 1, 2, 3 and 4-bedroom configurations, each residence features stunning sea views, contemporary kitchen spaces, elegant living spaces, and all the trimmings of a luxury home away from home. Whether its for a weekend escape from the rat race, or a longer vacation with family and friends, these residences afford travellers the ultimate independence during their stay on Samui. The modern kitchens, which comes complete with fridge and freezer, an induction stove, dishwasher and coffee machine, give you the freedom to explore Samui’s culinary heritage, and the open plan living spaces are a joy when entertaining. Choose from Executive Duplex rooms, with spacious master bedrooms, private terraces and unique plunge pools, or Executive Suites with open plan kitchens, lavishly-decorated living rooms and private outdoor lap pools which run the width of the suite. For families or friends travelling together, this is no better choice than the Sovereign Penthouse, a luxurious space that boasts four king-sized bedrooms with spacious ensuites, a modern living room decked out in contemporary art, a dining table for 10, perfect for private dinners cooked by a dedicated chef, and no less than three private decks. Be sure to make time for cocktails on the roof top, and look out for the glass panelling between the living room and the 13m lap pool. All rooms feature flat screen televisions, DVD players, iPod docking stations and wireless internet access. If you can drag yourself away from your suite’s captivating sea views, make a bee-line for the resort’s contemporary restaurant, which serves up the finest Asian and Western dishes al fresco. Also make time for sun downer cocktails at the resort’s pool bar, a great meeting spot at the end of a long day discovering the island. When you’re not cooking up a storm in your suite or enjoying the best of the chef’s creation in the restaurant, laze by the resort swimming pool, work up a sweat in the modern fitness centre, or indulge in authentic wellness rituals, in your villa or at the Infinity Spa. For more information go to www.infinityresidencesresorts.com
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â– HIDEAWAYS
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Jim Sullivan encounters life on one of the world’s most famous rivers, the mighty Mekong.
The River of Life
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■ LAOS
A
fter several days of heavy rain, the tumescent Mekong hurries south through Luang Prabang, known as LP, in Laos, urgent, charged with mission and purpose. Small skiffs sprint downstream at an unnatural gait while the cross-river boats are obliged to work acute angles against a current that the boat’s captain estimates at 4km/hr but is clearly faster, judging from the pace of vegetation moving over the surface. We’re headed upriver, 35km from the Unesco-recognised temple town. The surrounding peaks shred the low cloud cover, opening breaks that promise better weather. There is so much fluctuation in the level of the famed Mekong River, that its waters claimed another 20 metres of bank during the night. I’m travelling with Jean-matthieu Beroujon, assistant operations manager for Villa Maly, a former royal residence turned boutique hotel, and Kamu Lodge, and eco-hotel located up the river from LP. Also with us is Antoine Martin, another Frenchman who manages the Kamu Lodge. Antoine wears a banker’s striped pants, flip flops and a ready smile under prominent eyebrows as thick as his lips. We’re cruising upstream in the Nava Mekong, a 45m steel-hulled long boat decked in mahogany and teak. Mahogany in the floor and the teak on the roof. The teak is much lighter. The hills suggest abundant wildlife but here, near the river’s edge, the charismatic flora has fled for deeper sanctuaries. Four or five hours from the river, according to Moua Lee, a guide for Kamu Lodge, there are wild pigs and monkeys. The wild elephants endure near the Thai border, and in the south. There is still a tiger population, but it’s “far from people.” No one knows exactly.
Lee, who is of the indigenous Hmong tribe, talks to people from LP to Kamu, explaining all the way. He talks about the villages and the famed Pak Ou Caves. In rainy season, the locals harvest long beans and cucumbers, squash and Chinese cabbage, carrying the crops from their small fields on the steep flanks of the hills to little splinters of boats, and then on to market in LP. Antoine came to Laos on holiday, and liked it so much he decided to stay. He’d had a friend who’d been here and stories from his friend were impetus for his own trip. His friend raved about the Lao people, and the different style of life. “I had to try,” he confesses. He lived two months with a Lao family who did not speak English, and quickly he acquired their language. He now also speaks English and Kamu. “You have to like the quiet life if you stay at Kamu Lodge, said J-m. He’s brought a book to read at the Lodge. For years as a hotelier in other places, he’d abandoned reading but at Kamu there is the desire to dig in again. At Ban Dan village, the Nava Mekong moors at the bank, and we climb a path that looks like reformed chocolate after melting. This is a Lao village of 300 people. We visit a Buddhist temple where an interior mural tells the story of good people and bad, of a mortal man who captures a heavenly woman and binds himself to her until she escapes. The mural was painted by a man from LP 20 years ago and has been touched up ever since. Next door to the temple, two villagers saw through wood by hand, laboring 40 minutes on each plank that will later go into the building of a boat. At first light the next morning, plans to bypass further villages change and I soon find myself on route to a Hmong Village.
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■ LAOS
The woman who opens the temple for us marks the visit of our party, noting there was one new guest. At the end of the year, they invoice the Kamu Lodge owners, 5,000 kip (60¢) for each guest. At the Kamu village beside the Lodge, it’s 10,000 kip per guest. The village earns about US$3,000 per year. Families often buy pigs from the proceeds. We pass King’s Island, once the province of the King of LP. The king picnicked here, and at the New Year, they would travel to the Pak Ou Caves, stopping for lunch at the island. A regal pavilion has now been replaced with a solitary building, a sala used to hosts tourists. Usually, the Kamu Journee stops here. A turquoise bird flies low over the water, the color like a surprise, and lands in a stand of reeds in the shallows, flitting from stalk to stalk. The clouds continue to shred as we motor upstream, opening up larger patches of blue and lending drama to the low hilltops, which retain their halos of cloud cover. Small skiffs moored to a steep bank evince men who’ve come out this day to farm a field cleared in the jungle above, or of a gatherer who’s hunting for bamboo shoots in the rainy season. On the east bank, vines hang from towering figs, nearly to the water but not quite. A manic butterfly hurries past, moving upstream twice as fast as the boat. Freshets burst from the foliage, emptying into the river at last. From a limestone bluff droplets of water rain into the river. Here and there, a moored skiff and a stairway up from the river. The river is deep, 50 meters in places, according to one of the boatmen, and as shallow as 15-20m elsewhere. Another cell tower pokes up from a hilltop. At Hoiy Khae, a Hmong village on the west bank, 42 families lives in dirt-floored homes made of thatch and bamboo. They are an animist people who rely on shamans for their spiritual welfare. They don’t keep a temple. They farm rice, corn, sesame and herbs. An impromptu markets sets up on our arrival, and two villagers spread their wares of hats and embroideries on blankets. We visit one house here, inhabited by 15 people, the house perhaps 10m long and 4m wide. A cooking fire heats a pot in one corner. An older woman prepares vegetables against one wall.
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Along the river, teak trees stand near villages, too valuable to exist as wayward wild trees, but planted and cultivated, and blooming now with pale yellow flowers clustered among the overly big leaves. At Kamu Lodge, our pilot steers the boat against a sand bank, and we climb the embankment, explorer-fashion, followed by porters and greeted by a line of villagers, clasping their palms in welcome. A woman presents me with a flower tucked in a small cone of a banana leaf. At the Kamu village of Yoi Hai, 84 families live by the river, most of them resettled here in 2000 after the government decided that the Kamu, who typically dwell in the mid highlands, should come down to the lowlands. Until then, it had been a Lao village, and six families chose to remain. They keep a temple, where a monk and two novices practice their methods. Twenty six of the Yoi Hai villagers work at Lodge, but everyone else lives by dint of the land, farming, gathering, hunting, fishing. They used to hunt with crossbows, firing poisoned arrows at small game in the area. But now the crossbows are only for fun. We try some of the fun at a shooting range at the Lodge, trying for a papaya on a post. None of us manages the target, but we do manage to plant some rice later in the Lodge’s paddies. We don’t catch any fish, but we try our hands and arms on a circular net weighted around the perimeter by a light chain. It’s not difficult to get the hang of it. You gather up the net, drape some of it over your forearm, hold the rig in a couple of places and then you swing your body and arc the works into the shallows. The weather today has been fitful, raining at breakfast, tapering off, then breaking up some. We had some light rain coming up the river, and then lots of blue sky and hot sun. The afternoon’s heat gives way to cloud cover in later afternoon, some thunder and light rain now as we near 6pm. Our journey, this day anyway, is done. Villa Maya: www.villa-maly.com Kamu Lodge: www.kamulodge.com
â– AIRLINES
A New Class IN COMFORT Turkish Airlines hopes to appeal to even more passengers travelling between Europe and Asia with the introduction of its innovative Comfort Class, a premium economy cabin like no other.
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t’s difficult to go anywhere in Europe and Asia these days without seeing, reading about or hearing talk of Turkish Airlines. Once a small national carrier servicing a small regional network, the airline has followed rapid expansion plans over the past five years, with the ambitious goal of adding an additional 50 destinations to its international network before 2015. But it’s not just about reaching the world’s greatest cities and turning Istanbul, once again, into a hub for international travel and commerce. Turkish Airlines is competing for European routes from Asia and visa versa with some of the industry’s top players, and to gain an upper hand, they had to think outside the box. The result is the airline’s innovative, and much-heralded Comfort Class, a premium economy product that’s a significant step closer to the pointy end of the plane than it is to coach. Comfort Class offers the best of both worlds to a host of new passengers as one of Europe’s most dynamic and award-winning airlines continues its global expansion. Of course, it’s usually the seat that’s front and centre in the minds of a long-haul travellers. The difference between simply arriving at your destination and arriving fresh and ache-free can have a fundamental impact on your travelling experience. The Comfort Class seat, presently only available on the airline’s modern Boeing 777-300ER aircraft, has a pitch of 46-inches (116cm) and a width of 19.5-inches (49cm). In many ways - including its 2-3-2 configuration - the 63-seat Comfort Class cabin mirrors aspects of the airline’s acclaimed business class product. Seats boast personal 10.6-inch (27cm) monitors with iPod connectivity, as well as personal reading lights, and laptop power jacks. But it’s the catering and entertainment where Turkish Airlines has placed it’s most conscience efforts, and it was dining in the skies
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that led to the airline being awarded World’s Best Economy Class Onboard Catering in the 2010 Skytrax survey. The airline takes that reputation one step further with Comfort Class; passengers benefit from a custom-conceived meal service and dedicated menus which include an aperitif matched with Turkish mezzes selections, business class-quality linen and porcelain tableware, an emphasis on fresh ingredients and authentic Turkish dishes, and even a snack service between meals. Of course there is also a full spirits, beer and comprehensive wine offering throughout the flight. Entertainment also plays an important role in the airline’s new Comfort Class product. Passengers will enjoy access to the airline’s Planet digital entertainment system via their individual touch screen monitors, and be able to access close to 350 films and short programs, including latest releases from around the world, as well as 600 music albums. Children will love the dedicated gaming channel, a children’s channel and an audio book service, perfect for long night flights. For business travellers the airline’s advanced in-flight connectivity technology allows passengers to send and receive text messages and emails, browse news channels and weather information, or to connect their iPhones or USB devices and watch media on their monitors. The airline also offers stylish amenity kits in Comfort Class, perfect for night flights. Comfort Class is presently available on the airline’s B777 aircraft servicing routes to Beijing, Shanghai, Sao Paulo, Tokyo, Guangzhou, Los Angeles, Hong Kong, New York and Toronto. The average comfort class fare is midway between the average economy class fare and the average business class fare but ask your travel agent for special Comfort Class promotions in your region. www.turkishairlines.com
â– AIRLINES
Turkish Airlines is competing for European routes from Asia and visa versa with some of the industry’s top players, and to gain an upper hand, they had to think outside the box.
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DINING OUT
Mother’s Boy Explorer talks with Bruno Le Gac, corporate executive chef at Constance Hotels, about his culinary passion, his rise to success, and his most outstanding foodie experiences. Why did you decide to become a chef? Like many people, I had absolutely no idea what I wanted to do when I was a teenager. But I knew I wanted to be independent, earn my own money and enjoy freedom. I also loved to eat and go to restaurants with my parents. One summer, I spent a month in a restaurant to earn a bit of cash. I was cleaning dishes, peeling vegetables, all that nice stuff. One day during service time, the kitchen brigade was in such a rush that the chef called me. He put a kitchen hat on my head, tied an apron around my waist and showed me how to place the garnish on the plates. Strangely enough, at the end of this particular day I knew what I wanted to do in life. I guess I was love struck by the job. I dropped conventional studies and started an apprenticeship. And I’ve never regretted my decision.
trust and support. My current job is completely different from what I was doing before. But I love it even more – it opens so many doors. I’m having a blast! What qualities do you think an aspiring chef needs to make it in the business? I’d say self motivation and a willingness to work hard, as well as a genuine passion for what you’re doing. When I started you needed to get ready the first couple of years to wake up very early in the morning, work long hours, do more
How did your career get going in the early days? I started travelling at quite a young age, and I was only 20 when I got my first job abroad, in California. I chose not to come back to France, and instead decided to discover different countries and cultures. What things have influenced your success? A combination of factors have been key to the development of my career. I’m lucky to have a fantastic wife. She’s always been very supportive, patient and she has also been able to put me back on track when needed. I have a true passion for the job, and I’m lucky enough to have plenty of self motivation. It’s important to wake up every morning and strive to do better than the day before. I also believe I’ve made the right career choices at the right time. One has to provoke his destiny and not wait for things to happen. I’ve been lucky to meet and work with incredible people, who gave me their
cleaning than cooking, cut your fingers, burn your arms, stink when you get back home and never say no to your chef. Work, learn, remember, apply. Think fast, act fast. Then you’ll know if you’re made for the job or not. Once all of these things are no longer a problem to you, you’ll start really enjoying what your job is and you’ll be on the right track. After that, it’s all about finding your own style and ways of doing things. Fortunately things are now very different and the working conditions in the kitchen are getting better and better. It will always remain a fascinating but fairly hard job. How do you see food trends developing in the luxury hotel market?
There’s a move to create more healthy options on the menu, more ‘custom made’ menus, lighter portions, and luxury snacking for lunch. And more than ever, lighter, purer dishes made out of quality products. High class modern pastry is also a big draw right now. We’re going to see even more personality in the food. So called ‘hotel food’ is disappearing and this is good news. And there will be even more symbiosis between food, service and wine. Guests are looking for a global experience. The mix of clientele is also changing. We need to anticipate and propose things that will surprise and delight our European guests but also Asian and Middle Eastern to name two. What and where was the best meal you’ve ever had? If I say ‘my Mum’s food’ it will sound very conventional! Let me think… I don’t have one best meal that stands out. Instead, I like to remember dozens of great food experiences that vary with the context, the place, the people I was with. Some of the best food experiences I’ve had include a ‘vuelve la vida’ seafood cocktail in Mercado 28 in Cancun, Mexico; a salad of fresh heart of palm at Constance Belle Mare Plage,Mauritius; a splendid and surprising dish of langoustine and raw wagyu beef in a delicate broth at Relais Bernard Loiseau this summer; a perfect spaghetti al pesto at La Merenda, a small restaurant in Nice; a giant chili crab in a street food shack in Singapore; and a plate of freshly picked organic tomatoes from my mother-inlaw’s garden, with lots of olive oil from Baux de Provence and sprinkled with salt flower. My memory is full of incredible food souvenirs. I think you got it by now… I love food! Constance Hotels Experience manage six leading luxury resorts in the Indian Ocean destinations of Mauritius, Seychelles and the Maldives. www.constancehotels.com www.explorer-magazine.com
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We all like a deal and many of us relish a chance to shop in Europe, especially if the price is right One group of shopping villages is helping change perceptions of outlet shopping, and is offering plenty of bargains in the process.
SHOPPING’S
CHIC
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t’s mid afternoon and in a spacious courtyard wreathed by potted olive trees families and couples are enjoying a leisurely late lunch under brightly coloured umbrellas. The air is alive with different languages – French, Italian, English and German – and infused with the smells of freshly baked pizza. A waiter draws the cork from a bottle of wine with flare, while around him the sun brings out the pastel hues of the single story buildings of the village square. This could be a scene from any number of European regions - from Tuscany or Provence, Normandy or Sicily. But it’s not. It’s Fidenza Village, on the outskirts of Milan, an outlet shopping precinct with a difference. Here you’ll see as many people sitting eating antipasto in the sun and drinking local wine, wondering which little cobbled avenue they’ll explore next, as you will people clambering with shopping bags. And that’s exactly the idea behind Chic Outlet Shopping’s family of luxury shopping villages; you’re supposed to feel like you’re on holiday, not fighting for every saved dollar in an outlet mega-mall with all the personality of a cocktail umbrella. With a collection of nine villages in or on the outskirts of nine major European cities, Value Retail’s Chic Outlet Shopping collection has become synonymous with luxury brands on offer in a truly welcoming setting, with more than 25 million visitors last year alone. From Dublin to London and Milan to Munich, these elegant villages are welcoming
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ever more visitors from across Europe and beyond, seduced by the collection’s reputation for value for money, with some brands offering items from the previous season for up to 60 percent off. And more Asian travellers than ever are joining the bargain-hunting locals. I’ve started my shopping journey at Fidenza. Located just 60 minutes from Milan’s city centre, the Fidenza Village has all that inspires travel to Italy, including great cafes, gourmet restaurants serving up classic dishes, rustic architecture, and of course, famous brand names. Fidenza boasts 100 outlet boutiques spread throughout an elegant village-like pedestrian mall. Well known brands to look out for include Armani, Versace, Brooks Brothers, Furla, Marni, Paul Smith, Swarovski and Missoni. One of the great things about Chic Outlets is that they also work hard to promote local designers to their international visitors, including Duvetica, Frette, Pinko, and Simonetta. After we’re done soaking up the sales, we head to the village’s delicatessen and wine bar Barlumeria for a glass of the local Lambrusco, a sweet sparkling wine perfectly suited for sun-drenched afternoons. Fellow shoppers tuck into platters of local mozzarella de bufala campana, shavings of parma ham and hunks of authentic parmigiano-reggiano cheese at neighboring Obikà, which also has an extensive selection of local olive oils and aged balsamic vinegars.
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Many visitors to Fidenza are on holiday and instead of braving Italy’s highways take the Fidenza Village Express coach from Piazza Castello in the heart of Milan, returning at six in the evening in time for dinner. A few days later I’m at the Maasmechelen Village outside Brussels. Belgium, that tiny European nation that’s home to the EU, NATO and Tintin, is one I never associated with luxury shopping. But after only a few days in Brussels and Antwerp, it quickly becomes apparent that fashion is as important here in the land of jolly monks and beer as it is in any other European city, with Belgium producing its fair share of homegrown brands to compete with the big boys of the fashion world. Located in Limburg, near the borders with Germany and the Netherlands, and close to Northern France and Holland, Maasmechelen Village sees plenty of day trippers and European travellers looking to pick up a few bargains from last years designer collections, although Eurostar connections are also making the Village increasingly popular with travellers from further afield. With architecture that’s themed on traditional Limburg villages, Maasmechelen boasts over 95 outlets, again with a mix of globally-recognized brands and some local names that are well worth a spot of window shopping. Local labels like Bellerose, Chine, Olivier Strelli, Essentiel, Scapa, Sarah Pacini and Kipling sit comfortably side by side with the likes of Versace, Escada, Hugo Boss, Pringle of Scotland, Mugler Men, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein Jeans, and many of the local brands have loyal followings in neighboring countries. Women will also love the new Elizabeth Hurley bikini boutique which recently opened in time for summer. Like Fidenza, many people just come to the village for its ambiance and restaurants; the Village’s Gastronomia Cellini serves up gourmet Italian cuisine.
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Alternatively if you prefer to be on the move, match a day’s shopping at Maasmechelen with a visit to the Mode Museum in Antwerp, a collection of pieces from the city’s five hundred year old fashion tradition. My final stop is at Ingolstadt Village, located outside Munich in Germany. With a distinctly Gothic Bavarian feel, Ingolstadt offers 100 luxury boutiques, and is popular with shoppers from across Germany and beyond as well as weekend shoppers from nearby Munich. Like the other villages I’ve seen I’m glad it’s not just women’s fashion represented; there is plenty for the guys, as well as everything else, from jewellery and luggage to luxury chocolate boutiques, homewares and even electronics brands like Bose. German brands to look out for at Ingolstadt include Aigner, MCM, Schneiders, Rosenthal and Munich designer Philipp Plein, but you’ll also be able to find plenty of the big brands, including Versace, Escada, Filippa K, 7 For All Mankind, Baldessarini and Wolford. With the Austrian and Swiss Alps literally acting as a backdrop for the village, Ingolstadt also features several specialist ski and mountain shops, including Bogner, Napapijri, The North Face, Salomon and Helly Hansen. After discovering some amazing finds by Furla, Mandarin Duck and Marc Picard, as well as a few gift ideas at Lindt’s stylish chocolate boutique, I finish up at Ingolstadt’s Stiftl Restaurant, a colonial-style Bavarian beer hall, with a glass of foamy brew and a dish of local sausages. The scene couldn’t be further from Asia’s packed, windowless malls, with their endless escalators, over-priced brand boutiques and cookie-cutter restaurants, and even an anti-shopper like me can appreciate the contrast. www.chicoutletshopping.com
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READER’S REPORT
EXPLORER reader Uma Paro is greeted by the changing face of the Middle Kingdom while she samples some of China’s unique tea tradition.
tEa-RiFiC
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o there I am, having yogarised myself out of a tiny Beijing taxi, standing amid thousands of Chinese and foreign tourists at one end of Tiananmen Square, wondering what my next step should be when I hear “hello!” chimed by three tiny Chinese teenaged girls from Harbin, in town for the national holidays. Apparently my white face had stood out even in this, one of China’s most visited tourist spots, and my soon-to-be-guides had decided to seize the moment for an off-the cuff English tutorial. Such is modern China, where Americana blares from nearly as many TVs as Chinese and where English has become the language to future success. Yet where do my pint-sized tour guides lead me to, but the oldest quarter of China’s capital city and a famed tea house, for tea, or cha in mandarin, remains as much a social adhesive in a China in the midst of transformation, as it did in the time of dynasties and revolution. Passing through the Tiananmen Gate and into the old district of Beijing, the four of us, myself a full foot taller than my tiny guides, make our way along Wang Fu Ging onto Qian Men street, a cobbled and bustling road which has existed for over 500 years. Although many of the original shops have been converted to flashy discount shopping boutiques selling t-shirts coated with Communist slogans (mainly for the tourists), some retain the original architecture and are places of pilgrimage for “countryside” visitors from outside the city, including traditional bakeries and pharmacies. Suddenly my guides, Anna, Vickie and a rather sheepish Susan, suddenly veer off to the left and into a Chinesestyle 7-11. We dash past colourful shelves of Chinese pickled fruit candies and ornate bottles of whiskey, before ploughing up a flight of steep rickety stairs to a quiet tea house which resides above the chaos of the street. Guided into a small room where two walls are made of plastic bamboo, we take our places at low wooden stools and I try hard to keep my balance with my knees almost reaching my face while the three English students sit delicately like birds on a branch. Our tea master is not what I expect; I guess I had visions of a Mr Miagi-looking man, wizened with age (and tea) and intimate in the knowledge of cha and its role in history. Instead we’re greeted by a beautiful and inquisitive looking 18 year-old girl who looks like she has never seen a westerner up close before. Her name was Zhang Ya and she has studied tea for five years and admits to being quite addicted to it. She sits down at the massive varnished log that pretended to be a coffee table in the centre of the room, revealing trendy jeans under her waistlength qi pao (traditional Chinese dress) and begans chatting away to my three guides as if everyone were best friends, occasionally flashing a smile of perfect pearl-white teeth and covering her mouth when she laughs at my translated ignorance. She tells me that tea takes up a lot of her time but admitted a pas-
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sion for K-TV (Karaoke), and Justin Bieber. With tiny delicate hands Zhang Ya prepares tea from jars which are stacked to the roof, just some of the 3,000 known Chinese teas, rinsing the leaves, draining them and then preparing tea in tiny ornate pots whilst handing out thimble-like tasting cups. First is an Oolong Ginseng (to get blood into my white face I’m told) which we are instructed to smell, appreciate and then taste in three precise sips. I had tried ginseng tea in Korea but this was different – lighter, zestier, a little sweet and very refreshing despite the tiny quantity. It is, like most Chinese teas, appreciated for its medicinal qualities and is supposed to be good for circulation and stomach complaints. I drink three more thimbles while Zhang Ya prepares the next round – the globally known Jasmine tea, which, when tasted, is light and gentle and apparently fantastic for the skin and for cleansing the body. The ceremony behind each tea is different and for Jasmine, the tea is prepared in small ceramic shot glasses before being tipped upside down into the thimbles and released. Jasmine is followed by a fruit tea which we’re permitted to taste first. It reminds me of the small bits of fruit you find in cereal and Zhang Ya explains that there were over 20 types of fruit as well as rose petals in this particular blend. The resulting tea is very sweet, bright pink and high in vitamins. It’s at this stage that I notice a tiny naked baby doll submerged in a glass of water on the far end of the log table. It strikes me as weird that a doll would be kept in such a position in what remains a very superstitious society, and when I inquire, Zhang Ya pulls it from the water with a giggle and gives the naked baby doll a squeeze. A long, thin plume of water shoots out from the baby boy to a chorus of laughter from both my chamaster and guides – apparently the doll is used to test water temperature – no pee, no tea. The next up is lychee tea – a first for me – and a whiff of the jar tells of perfume, exotic fruit and warm summers captured in the drying room. This tea is by far my favourite. It’s light but still bold enough not to be boring, sweet but not sickly and apparently great for the blood. Lastly is the Heinz tea – translated as an “eight measure” and more souplooking then any tea I have seen before. The cha was served, unstrained, in larger cups and includes all sorts of flower buds, leaves and herbs and is perfect, it seems, for reflection. Here I am, about to try the funkiest looking tea I ‘ve ever seen, in a traditional tea house above a counterfeit 7-11 and listening as the music change from a tranquil Chinese sonnet to a Stratocaster-ridden pop song, which even includes a splattering of English phrases for good commercial sense. Looking down into my cha-stew, I start to understand the changes that China is going through – through its people, its culture and its perceptions – and there is little left to do but toast the new future. Bottoms Up!
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