Explorer November

explorer plorer NOVEMBER 2011

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

Malaysia’s Langkawi Island Driving the Grand Pacific Drive Design Savvy London

Hue

A Foodie’s Paradise Macau’s Encore Hotel s The Grand Formosa Regent Taipei

Publisher’s Letter

NOVEMBER 2011 Dear Explorer Readers Around the world the seasons are changing; in the north we’re headed towards colder months and as the mercury falls we start searching for warmer climes. In the Southern Hemisphere people are preparing for Christmas barbeques and beach weekends, although a few might be thinking of strapping on their skies and heading to Canada or Europe. Wherever you’re headed, we hope Explorer Magazine brings you some insight and inspiration.

In this issue we’re all over the world, from Hue in Vietnam, a fantastic stopping point for foodies, and Langkawi, one of Malaysia’s most beautiful islands, to London before the Games, cycling on Long Island, and cruising Australia’s Grand Pacific Drive. As usual we have plenty of travel news and updates as well as reviews and an event calender packed with perfect excuses to book your next holiday.

Happy Travelling David Leung Publisher

CONTENTS 16

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Hue Asia’s Foodie Paradise

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Waiheke Auckland’s Little Hippie Haven

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London The Design Savvy City

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Lankawi The Jewel in Malaysia’s Crown

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Road Trip Cruising Australia’s Grand Pacific Drive

Edtorial by: 2

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THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN

T: +61(0)410324535

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www.bali-villasungai.com

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www.baliluxuryvillacollection.com

WHAT’S COMING UP

From jazz jams to street carnivals, here are

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Vienna Christmas Markets VIENNA, AUSTRIA, NOVEMBER 13 – DECEMBER 24, 2011 Also known as the Christmas Markets, these are some of the oldest festival market places in Europe. The markets, which take place across the city, including the City Hall, Freyung and in front of the church of St Charles Borromeo, are packed with gift ideas, festival delicacies and plenty of live music. And of course, you might find the odd tipple of local Christmas mulled wine or schnapps. www.wien.info

Rio Carnivale RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL, FEBRUARY 17-21, 2011 Arguably the biggest party on the planet, the annual Carnival in Rio de Janeiro is a chance for Brazil’s samba schools to strut their stuff in front of an international audience. Not for the faint-hearted, organisers expect over two million people on the streets each day. www.rio-carnival.net

Java Jazz Festival JAKARTA, INDONESIA,MARCH 2-4, 2011 Held at the Jakarta International Expo centre, this annual showcase of regional and international jazz performances is a must visit for any Jakarta-bound traveller. Next year’s line up includes Harry Connick Jr, Eric Darius, Stevie Wonder and Tony Bennet and promises to be a jazz jam to remember. www.javajazzfestival.com

Australian Open 2012 MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA, JANUARY 17-30 With a record purse of AU$26 million, next year’s ‘Aussie Open’ promises to be right up there with the world’s biggest tennis events. Australian Open 2012 is shaping up to be the most hotly contested Grand Slam in a decade. Novak Djokovic,presently world No.1, will defend his title against the likes of Rafael Nadal, Roger Federer and Andy Murray, while in the women’s trophy Sam Stosur will be up against the likes of Kim Clijsters, world No.1 Caroline Wozniacki, Serena Williams, and Maria Sharapova. www.australianopen.com

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the events people are travelling for this season.

The 40th Hong Kong Arts Festival 2012 HONG KONG, FEBRUARY 1 – MARCH 8, 2012 The city’s top show case of dance, music and performances, this festival takes to the stage at venues across the city and is a major draw card for talent from across the region. www.hkaf.org

Sydney Festival 2012 SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA, JANUARY 10-31, 2012 Well worth the trip to Sydney, this annual series of events bring the city together, with brilliant large scale outdoors events contrasted by intimate events in venues across the inner city.

With 300 performances and 80 events performed by over 1,000 artists, look out for PJ Harvey, Little Match Girl, Eddie Perfect and System of a Down. www.sydneyfestival.org.au

Marlborough Wine Festival MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND, FEBRUARY 11, 2012 Just encase you needed another excuse to head to the Land of the Long White Cloud, the Marlborough Wine Festival in February is New Zealand’s original and most successful wine festival.

Sample a unique selection of Marlborough wines along with delicious local produce and gourmet cuisine and look out for the live music acts and Fashion in the Vines competition. www.marlboroughwinefestival.co.nz

Fair @ Square FEDERATION SQUARE, MELBOURNE, DECEMBER 2-4, 2012 Australia’s largest show case of fair trade products, look out for informative workshops, talks, market stalls, live music, fashion, art and more from more than 80 businesses. www.moralfairground.com.au www.crowntowners.com.au

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THE WORLD IN PHOTOS Polar tourism is on the increase especially as polar bear numbers decrease.

Credit: Peregrine Cruises

A boatman in a traditional canoe crosses a lily pond in Thailand Credit: JW Marriott Phuket

AND...SMILE From cruising Europe’s rivers to the idyllic islands of the South Pacific, Explorer travels the world through the camera lens.

A rice farmer tends to his crops in Ubud, Bali Credit: World Expeditions

Dawn mists swirl over the Great Wall of China Credit: The China Guide

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Hikers in the vast empty spaces of Kanchatka in Russia, a wilderness once closed to foreigners Credit: World Expeditions

Water and mirrors in China’s Moganshan Credit: Naked Stables

Nature lovers rise early in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, South Africa

A boat whiles away a sunny afternoon in French Polynesia, a chain of islands that once inspired famed artist Gauguin Credit: Tahiti Tourisme

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TRAVEL NEWS

TRAVEL Tales From family friendly hotels in the world’s top tropical locales, to the essential gadgets you need when on the road, Explorer has all you need to know before setting off on your next big trip.

Essential Hideaway Redefining the oft used expression ‘remote but accessible’ the Ca Lam Villas have been launched at the recently opened, eco-friendly luxury resort of An Lam Ninh Van Bay Villas. Just a four-minute boat trip from the resort with two spacious villa accommodations, Ca Lam has been awarded its own identity so as to position it as the essential hideout.

The two air conditioned beach villas, accommodating one couple each, have indoor/outdoor bathrooms and private pools as well as open sided living spaces designed with traditional Vietnamese thatched roofs.

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The villas come complete with a personal chef, a butler to serve and a private masseuse.

Nestled just three palm-fringed beaches away from An Lam Villas in Vietnam’s spectacular Ninh Van Bay, the villas at Ca Lam come with a comprehensive range of all-inclusive guest comforts including all meals, unlimited spa treatments from the massage menu, arrival and departure transfers between the resort and Cam Ranh International Airport and transfers to Nha Trang for any excursions with the guest’s personal boat and skipper. www.epikurean.ws

Wild Taste Buds Renowned for its five-star safari product, Singita Grumeti Reserves has introduced an interesting new culinary option that integrates international cuisine with the authentic traditional foods of East Africa. Chief among the epicurean influences here is Swahili cuisine, featured on the new African Tasting Menu that is served at opulent, 1920’s-styled Singita Sabora Tented Camp. Guests may savour tastings of local dishes that reflect a diverse range of flavours, including mtori, a thick, traditional soup from the Kilimanjaro region made from onions, green bananas and a little meat.

A choice of mezze style platters is served in the traditional Swahili fashion, comprising dishes such as dagaa mchuzi, a delicious serving of dried fish cooked in peanut tomato sauce; mchicha, a wild spinach grown locally - either blanched or sautéd with sunflower oil, tomato and onion; and kitandu cha nyama, a meat stew cooked with bitter local greens, which have a unique sour flavour with fragrant undertones of lemon. www.singita.com

A Needle in a Haystack Seattle CityPass is making it easier to explore the city’s most famous landmark this winter. Originally built for the 1962 World’s Fair, the Seattle Center is home to three top-tier Seattle attractions: the Space Needle, Pacific Science Center and Experience Music Project & Science Fiction Museum. With Seattle CityPass, travelers can save half off admission to these and other attractions, including the Seattle Aquarium, Argosy Cruises Harbor Tour, and either the awe-inspiring Museum of Flight or the crowd-pleasing Woodland Park Zoo.Seattle CityPass costs US$59 for adults (it contains admission tickets worth US$117) and US$39 for kids 4-12 (value US$74).

In addition to saving money, the pass saves time, allowing holders to skip most main-entrance ticket lines. Be sure to visit the remodeled Eames IMAX Theater at the Pacific Science Center. The theater, which was also built for the World’s Fair, has reopened with a new IMAX 3-D projection system, including a new digital sound system; upgraded seating; and a completely refurbished look. www.citypass.com

Outback App Learn more about Australia’s Northern Territory with the free to download OutbackNT App now available to the Android market. There is also an upgraded version for iPhone owners. Complete with videos, photos and interactive maps, the App is an essential resource showcasing everything that’s great about the Northern Territories from the convenience of a mobile, identifying great bars, restaurants, cultural experiences, attractions and events. App users can get into the Indigenous vibe of the Territory, with the didgeridoo feature which allows users to play the ‘didg’ by blowing into the voice piece. Explore the vibrant tropical city of Darwin, World-Heritage listed national parks like Kakadu and famous outback towns like Alice Springs and plan itineraries. www.tourismnt.com.au

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Whale of a Time Australia’s Hervey Bay in Queensland is a splash of activity right now with the highest numbers of whales in 25 years taking time out to play and teach their new young the moves. With whale watching boats operating into late-November, there’s still time to have an incredible close encounter of your own and be on the lookout for a possible Migaloo junior. Tthere are a record number of whales migrating down the coast, with an estimated 14,000 whales in the eastern Australian humpback population. Mother humpbacks are busy teaching their calves to breach, lob-tail, pectoral-slap and head-lunge and you can get front-row seats on any of the whale watching tours taking place daily from Hervey Bay. They might even give you a cheeky wink and a nudge. www.queensland.com/whales

Crime Stopper Starline Tours, Los Angeles’ oldest and largest tour company known for its long-running tour of movie stars’ homes, has rolled out its latest look at Hollywood for CSI fanatics and armchair investigators: Crime Scene Tours of Los Angeles.

The tour visits some of the most shocking, talked-about crime scenes in Los Angeles and is led by off-duty or retired Los Angeles Police Department personnel who provide an insider’s look at the crime scene most people can’t bear to see.

More than just another celebrity tour peaking over hedges and inside celebrity lives, Crime Scene Tours provides crime buffs a new way to really delve into the often horrific details of LA’s most shocking crimes. Developed by Lonnie Levine, a former Los Angeles Police Department crime analyst, the tour uses a custom-designed, 28-passenger bus equipped with video screens for viewing actual police and news helicopter footage of famous crimes.

The tour includes a stop at the Brentwood condominium where Ronald Goldman and Nicole Brown Simpson, wife of O.J. Simpson, were brutally murdered. In North Hollywood, passengers will stop at Vitello’s Restaurant, where Robert Blake was accused of fatally shooting his wife, Bonny Lee Bakley in the neck. Although Blake was later acquitted of the murder, the tour guide provides passengers with a step-by-step accounting of Blake’s activities that evening, down to the inconsistencies in his alibi, as well as police video footage of the scene. www.crimescenetours.net

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TRAVEL NEWS Aquatic Attraction Singapore has opened its Maritime Experiential Museum & Aquarium (MEMA) at the Resorts World Sentosa complex. Housed in an iconic steel and glass ship hull at the RWS waterfront, MEMA promises a new museum-going experience that covers maritime talks, children’s workshops and exploration on life-size replica historical ships.

Designed by Ralph Appelbaum, whose firm Ralph Appelbaum Associates is one of the largest museum design and planning firms in the world, visitors to MEMA are taken back in time to one of the greatest eras in history, where the tales of sea adventurers and the growth of sea trade between Asia and the Middle East are told.

Interactive exhibits include a musical ensemble that features instruments that can be found at the various ports of call, like the sitar from India, santur from Iran and bongo drums from Kenya.

Visitors can “play” and “mix and match” the instruments via a touchscreen panel, create a new tune, and send the tune via electronic mail. www.rwsentosa.com

Lady Luck aesars Palace has announced plans to open the Octavius Tower, a 668-room hotel tower including 60 suites and six luxury villas, in January 2012. The resort’s sixth tower will offer a unique luxurious resort experience with a private entrance, separate hotel lobby and direct access to the Garden of the Gods pool oasis and gardens.

Spacious guest rooms, starting at 550sqft, will offer a modern, luxurious décor incorporating earthy shades of browns, grays, taupes and beiges, offset with pops of green and splashes of deep red. Designed by Michael Medeiros of KNA Design, the rooms will feature marble floors and stylish patterned carpets that complement dark wood furnishings and brushed chrome fixtures. King-sized beds with sleek headboards, plush pillow top mattresses and luxurious Anichini linens will provide ultimate comfort, while living areas create an inviting ambiance with plush velvet sofas, contemporary chairs and chic stone tables.

An innovative application for iPad/iPod Touch devices will offer guests direct accessibility to communicate with room service, housekeeping, reservations and front desk services. Additional Octavius Tower’s amenities will include nightly turn-down service, upon request, and in-room coffee service. www.caesarspalace.com

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HUE

Serving A native returns to Hue as executive chef at La Residence and explores city’s culinary roots

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native returns to Hue as executive chef at La Residence and explores city’s culinary roots This is how breakfast happens in Hue. The motorcycles pull up to a giant pot of broth and meat simmering over a charcoal flame in the spot where a nondescript driveway opens onto the street. Inside, the floor is littered with a haphazard collage of pork bones, tissues, lemon peels and toothpicks. Latecomers duck in from the sun and plant themselves on tiny stools around low plastic tables.

On one of these precarious seats sits La Thua An, a Hue native and the new executive chef of the art-deco masterpiece La Residence Hotel & Spa. Born to parents who gave him an early education in Vietnamese and Chinese cooking, Chef An left the country with his family when he was six years old, and eventually cultivated an enviable career as executive chef of five-star hotels in New Caledonia and French Polynesia.

Today, after more than 30 years away, Chef An is back in his hometown, on a mission to reconnect with his roots and in the process, reinvent the menu at Le Parfum. The restaurant at La Residence is the only fine-dining venue in Vietnam’s traditional culinary capital -- a city where good food is found on every corner, and everyone has an opinion about the best way to enjoy it.

An early ride through Hue’s ancient, leafy streets has brought Chef An to what is reported to be the best bun bo Hue eatery in town. The easy definition of bun bo Hue is Hue-style beef with rice vermicelli. The multi-dimensional version takes in everything from soulful, tangy broth, to images of rice fields, temples and conical hats.

The soup is prepared by slow-boiling beef and pork bones, with a combination of red, annatto seed-colored oil, stocks of lemongrass, shrimp paste, chili and a myriad of spices. Thin rice noodles are cooked separately and combined in the bowl with the broth and topped with an assortment of sliced meats and pork bits.

The bowls arrive steaming on the table, followed immediately by the self-serve components of the dish: a tangle of fresh leaves and sprigs, lemon wedges, fish sauce, chopped chili, as well as chopsticks and mugs of iced tra da (jasmine tea).

If the chipped tableware and the women eating in all-day pajamas at the next table are not a complete giveaway, there’s one ingredient that gives proof of the eatery’s authenticity.

Picture this. It’s eight in the morning on a weekday, and you’ve just sat down at your favorite breakfast joint. What do you want to eat?

Blood, of course. If you’re from Hue. The blood sits in soft brown mounds in the red-tinged broth.

Duck’s blood has a gelatin-like consistency when cooked gently, where beef or pork blood tends to form a firmer, darker solid that is cut into squares, explains Chef An. 14

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And while the thought of eating blood strikes some as the wrong way, for others it’s the only way. “You absolutely cannot make bun bo Hue without the blood,” says Chef An as he digs in, thoughtfully regarding each component: the soft white noodles, the pork slices, the crunch of the greens, the vibrant broth, the texture of the duck blood.

“I think if you come to Hue, and you don’t eat bun bo, you lose something,” he says.

As a way for La Residence’s guests to begin their cultural adventures before noon, Chef An is planning to include bun bo Hue in Le Parfum’s breakfast buffet. His dedication to authenticity is the same as that of any Hue cook, except that his vegetables will be flown in from Dalat, and his certified-safe meat and duck blood is from the organic farm of a French friend.

“Vietnamese require blood in their bun bo, but if I put blood in front of the guests at the hotel, my God…” he snaps his fingers and shakes his head, imagining the complaints. “I have to put some, even just a tiny slice, to be able to say the dish is authentic; but if the guests want me to, I’ll take it out.”

The question of authenticity versus safety is one that Chef An has encountered before, one he answers without pause. “We need to put hygiene first to meet foreigners’ comfort levels,” he says, adding that he is willing to sacrifice a small percentage of the food’s original taste to ensure the health of his diners.

As bun bo Hue is the most recognizable representative of Hue’s long culinary history, it will have a prime spot on the Vietnamese corner of the Le Parfum menu, alongside Chef An’s original fusion menu which will blend Hue elements and ingredients with those of French, Italian and Japanese traditions.

“I like tradition but I also like change,” he says. ‘My two menus are there to give guests more choices. If they want something traditional I have it, and if they want something different, I have that too.”

If there’s anyone who can convince vacationers to step away from the routine and explore Hue’s famed cuisine, it’s Chef La Thua An. But for the moment, it’s enough for him to be sitting in a driveway, remembering and being re-inspired by flavors he first encountered in his childhood home, only a few blocks away, more than three decades ago.

La Résidence Hôtel & Spa, 5 Le Loi Street, Hue City, Vietnam, Tel: +84 054 3837 475, www.la-residence-hue.com www.explorer-magazine.com

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NEW ZEALAND

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Wine All Things Fine From the pitching bow of a high-speed catamaran, which drives through a sea-like harbour filled with white caps and dancing gulls, the island of Waiheke looks like farm land that was somehow cut off from the mainland and sprinkled with old weatherboard holiday homes.

The reality is somewhat different; Waiheke Island has developed into a unique resort destination, complete with its own climate and world recognised wine production. In fact, it’s only when the Quickcat slows as it enters Matiatia that you notice million-dollar homes perched high atop the windswept cliff s surrounding the bay and begin to get a sense of what this special little island is all about.

Urban dwellers, keen for a break from the cityscape, crowd the small ferry building with locals returning from work in the city and many set off on foot up the gently sloping main road towards Oneroa Village. In our luxury air conditioned bus and in the hands of our guide, Ananda Tours’ Gavin Sayles, we head off, passing bicycle hire tents and honesty bins filled with fresh fijoas. Ananda’s Jenny McDonald has been running tours for seven years and has lived on the island for over 30.

The island has a small knit year-round population of 8,000 and the locals handle the influx of Aucklanders, which swells the population to 30,000, with traditional hospitality and tolerance – though I expect few are sorry to see the masses leave at the end of each summer. Visitors making their way through the picturesque landscape will quickly realize Waiheke really is at odds with the rest of the country; everywhere you look there are sculpture gardens, dreadlocked, bare-footed cyclists, preserved native bush, fields of grazing alpacas, boutique wineries, million dollar homes and luxurious lodges and B&Bs – all packed into an island only 30km long!

The first vineyard to plant on the island was Goldwater Estate, which remains one of the island’s best sellers and was followed by many others until now there are more then 30 producers on Wai-

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heke, most of which focus their eff orts on the French style Claret.

The island’s unique climate, which is on average three degrees warmer and with 30 per cent less rain than the city only 19km away, produces stunning wines made using any combination of two or more of the five (some puritans say six) Bordeaux grape varieties; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. Yet, with so many diff erent possible combinations, the wine producers of Waiheke Island are known for their individuality and distinctive flavors, making a wine tour of the tiny isle fundamental.

Wine country comes in many different shapes on the island. Te Whau, our first tasting stop, is a modern vineyard that resembles a luxurious home set across the island’s cliff tops, where no expense has been spared to create a stylish and sophisticated ambiance. Although they also create a Chardonnay, everyone comes to Te Whau for their claret, which is made using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Te Whau was the first New Zealand vineyard created from the outset to adhere to the sustainable viticulture approach and the winery’s The Point is a youthful yet complex red that proudly displays classic Bordeaux boldness and a silky finish.

Next on our wine exploration is Stonyridge, a name better known by the affluent young crowds from the city who attend massive parties at the vineyard. Again, the winemakers at Stonyridge are focused on the classic French-inspired reds as well as some Chardonnay to keep white-drinkers happy.

Their premium drop is the Stonyridge Larose, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and the fi nal lesser-known variety, Petit Verdot.

The result is classical claret with notes of cassis, plum, berries, cedar and oak.

Stonyridge also make a Luna Negra Hill Side Malbec, which gives the taste buds a run for their money, a Pilgram Syrah Grenache Mourvedre for those lingering afternoons and two chardonnays, including the cellar door-only Church Bay. Another leading producer on Waiheke Island is Mudbrick, which has made a name for itself both for its wine and its stunning restaurant overlooking the Hauraki Gulf. Owners Robyn and Nick Jones, when new to the wine industry and still in their 20s, began planting at two distinctly diff erent sites in 1992; the Mudbrick Vineyard at Church Bay and Shepard’s Point Vineyard at Onetangi.

The varieties planted include the claret classics as well as Syrah and Chardonnay. Mudbrick also produces wine from grapes from across New Zealand. The award-winning restaurant at Mudbrick is the perfect place to break up the wine tour and has made a name for itself with its distinctly New Zealand focus. The ambiance is busy but inviting and the views across the harbour are to die for!

From leading wines to something a bit different, we make our way across the island to Rangihoua Estate, the most prolific award-winning producer of extra virgin olive oil in New Zealand. Rangihoua Estate is the brain child of Colin and Anne Sayles, who returned to New Zealand after living in Tuscany, with the idea that Waiheke could boast award-winning olive oil as well. The resulting oil not only won many awards in New Zealand but brought in gold at the Los Angeles County Fair in 2003 and 2004.

All olives are hand picked at the optimum level of ripeness and the fruit is processed within 24 hours of being picked, using presses imported from Italy.

What better way to finish a day of island exploration then with a nice glass of silky French red, some crisp local bread and some extra virgin olive oil, matched with stunning views across the harbour to the near-by city. Waiheke is a wonderland for wine and nature lovers has to be experienced to be believed.

Getting There: Air New Zealand (airnz.co.nz) has regular flights to Auckland from LA, London, Japan, Hong Kong, Australia, Singapore and the Pacific.

Where to Stay: For a bit of indulgence, Delamore (delamorelodge.com) is a luxury lodge with views to die for.

Getting Around: Ananda Tours (+64 9 372 7530, www.anandatours. co.nz) offers a range of exciting wine, art and scenic explorations and are the way to see the best of Waiheke.

More Info: www.tourismwaiheke.co.nz 18

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FIVE REASONS TO VISIT

Harvest Haven It’s time for the fall harvest in Rhode Island, and that means food, wine and plenty of community fun this autumn.

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s the summer sun starts to give way to milder coastal breezes, and the tree tops are painted in vivid hues of crimson red, brilliant yellow and burnt orange, Newport and Bristol County enter into what is arguably it’s most majestic of seasons. While Mother Nature shows off, enjoy awe-inspiring architecture, rich history, enchanting wineries, coastal charm, world-class events, miles of trails, farm to fork dining and fine boutique shopping.

Norman Bird Sanctuary Harvest Fair October 1-2

Bowen’s Wharf Seafood Festival October 15-16

This old-fashioned autumn fair features crafters, food, games, animals, hay rides, and a legendary mud pit that attracts 13,000 visitors over the two-day festivities.

Named one of the “10 Fabulous Fall Festivals on the Coast,” by Coastal Living Magazine, this festival honors the harvest of the sea with copious amounts of seafood, continuous live music and family fun, all beneath the Wharf’s colorful tents.

Oysterfest October 9 This inaugural event, which takes place at and benefits historic Fort Adams overlooking Newport Harbor and Narragansett Bay, toasts the bivalves, local seafood and specialty dishes with a day of music and family fun.

International Oktoberfest October 8-10 Raise your steins and toast to the flavors of fall with this three-day event with a spirited International Biergarten, authentic Bavarian entertainers and show bands, dance troupes and yodelers, and two stages of rompin,’ stompin’ Oom-Pah-Pah entertainment .

The Haunted Shipyard October 20-23, 27-31 Only brave souls set foot inside the barred gates of the ghostly shipyard, where dread and terror linger down each gangway as your former yardhand reluctantly escorts you through room after room of unspeakable horrors. An all-ages zone features attractions to entertain the entire family, including a “ScareFree, Lights-On” children’s area, and a full bar and concessions in the Courtyard create a diversion from the evening’s haunt. www.GoNewport.com www.explorer-magazine.com

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LONDON

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London has been, for generations, a political and cultural powerhouse.

Now, with the Olympics fast approaching, the heart of the British capital is back in the limelight.

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egular visitors to the Mother Country will notice that, like fellow Olympic host Beijing, change is a foot in London. Its cityscape is going through a Kafka-like metamorphism, where cultural, architectural and intellectual remnants are being fused to herald in a new era. London, like many cities, has always been an urban space of contrast and never so much as now, when loved buildings such as the Tate Gallery, Buckingham Palace and Westminster vie for position in the camera viewfinder and design books with the gleaming new towers of the CBD and Canary Wharf.

Long considered to be one of the globe’s financial hubs, even New York’s former mayor Michael Bloomberg said the Big Apple risked losing its title as the World Financial Capital to London, because of the UK’s easier going regulatory, legal and immigration systems.

Considered one of the world’s three “command centres” for global financial markets (along with NYC and Tokyo), the city has the sixth largest economy on the planet. As Europe’s second largest economy (after Paris), it continues to generate approximately 20 percent of the UK’s GDP ($446 billion in 2005).

Finance is still the name of the game, with over 300,000 people employed and over 480 overseas banks (more than any other city in the world) and more international phone calls made to and from London than anywhere else on the globe!

With so much money being funneled through London, it’s little wonder its once-dusty facade is now under revamp – 22

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no easy task when you take in the myriad of architectural influences that exist in a city so obsessed with the preservation of its rich past.

In fact remnants of the Romans’ ‘Londinium’, which dating back to AD 43, have been saved because of major events which steered the fate of the city’s architecture, zoning and ultimately its sky line. These includes two major destructions of the city - the Fire of London in 1666 and the Blitz during World War II – and a shift in the economy with the closure of the historic docklands.

Subsequently the city has many faces, from the classical public buildings which remained popular throughout the past century, including the Royal Exchange (1840) and the surviving tower of the Imperial Institute (1893) to the grandeur of London’s stations, cathedrals to London’s rail might, including Paddington (1850) by Isambrad Brunel and Matthew Wyatt and King’s Cross (1852) by Lewis Cubitt. With so many styles it was important for designers to avoid overlap; John Bentley designed his Westminster Cathedral in a Byzantine style to avoid clashing with the Gothic architecture of Westminster Abbey.

London’s reach for the heavens began with the construction of Centre Point in 1967, and which rose 120m into the then uncluttered skyline. Other early “skyscrapers” included the Hyde Park Barracks (1970)

by Basil Spence, the Euston Centre (1963) and the iconic Post Office Tower at 124m high.

The globe’s leading cities seem to be defined on their skylines more than anything; London’s

world status can be best examined through the buildings such as 30 Mary Axe, Tower 42 and One Canada Square, which have earned iconic status almost over night. In fact there are over 30 skyscrapers over 150m either proposed or approved at present, all part of a new London plan which encourages developers to reach for the skies.

Canary Wharf came into being when the Thames’ downstream container depots were developed, providing massive opportunities for new, fresh development between Tower Bridge and Barking Creek.

The massive multi-billion dollar Canary Wharf, the world’s largest office development project, is now home to the global headquarters of HSBC, Reuters, Barclays and many of the world’s largest law firms.

Another stunning new development has been given the rather unfortunate name of the “Gerkin”. Resembling a sleek alien space craft that has crash landed in the middle of the City, 30 St Mary Axe is the crowning glory in the city’s new design push. At a towering 180m high or 40 stories, it is now the second largest tower block in the City and the benchmark for London’s new design burst. Crafted by the hands of Pritzker Prize-winner Lord Norman Foster and former partner Ken Shuttleworth, with help from Arup Engineers, it was constructed by Swedish construction firm Skanska between 2001-04.

The Swiss Re building, as it is also known, is actually on the site of the former Baltic Exchange, a building destroyed in an IRA bombing in April 1992. Consequently, the original building’s façade was incorporated into the new building – in many ways epitomising the direction in which London’s skyline is headed, one where modern techniques and themes have been implemented, whilst the past is still embodied and preserved.

Its cone-shaped top was designed to reduce wind turbulence and won the prestigious RIBA Stirling Prize for the best new building in

2004, and the 2003 Emporis Skyscraper Award. Like many new buildings sprouting out of the heritage-listed bracken of the City, 30 St Mary Axe uses innovative energy-saving methods that half its power usage – this includes gaps between each floor that create a natural ventilation system for the entire building.

Other key examples of London’s historic design culture include City Hall in Southwark, with its distinctive curves, the British Library in Kings Cross, the British Museum and the London Ark at Hammersmith, while developments like the Battersea Power Station will continue London’s place in the design books for years to come.

The people of London have a vested interest in the development of their city, especially with the 2012 Games advancing and New London Architecture is the first ever permanent exhibition space dedicated to the future of the city’s architecture, showcasing 31 major developments across the city, the centerpiece of which is an enormous 1:1500 scale model of London and allowing residents the opportunity to learn and comment on the changing face of their city. Government has also come to the design party, forming the GLA Architecture and Urbanism Unit earlier this year, to help promote intelligent and innovative design in London.

Getting There: British Airways (ba.com) have an extensive international network reaching from their hub at London’s Heathrow International Airport.

Where to Stay: Visit London (visitlondon.com) has a hotel guide that matches all budgets.

Getting Around: See the best attractions with the London Pass (londonpass.com) hop-on hop-off buses.

More Info: www.visitlondon.com www.explorer-magazine.com

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HOTEL REVIEW

Call for Encore Explorer checks in at the Encore, the sassy sister hotel to the Wynn Macau’s sassy new sister, and checks-out the hotel that’s trying to change how we perceive the Vegas of the East Arrival We took Encore’s complimentary shuttle from the Hong Kong-Macau Ferry Terminal and arrived at the hotel in quick order although if you really want to arrive in style, you can also get one of Encore’s stunning Rolls Royce limos.

The all-suite hotel’s lobby is not for the faint hearted; bathed in bright reds and yellows, with dramatic chandeliers (including one made of brilliant crystal balls) and flower arrangements, the check-in desk is backed by a massive aquarium, home to 200 silently swimming moon jellyfish (which have their own full time team of keepers). The check in process was quick and efficient and we were soon on our way upstairs to one of the hotel’s 414 suites.

Suite Each of Encore’s suites, which include 41 Encore Salon suites at 2,000sqft a pop, is spacious and elegant, although Roger Thomas’s bright colourful persona continues from the lobby. Our suite looked out across to Macau Tower through floor-to-ceiling windows, and featured a spacious bathroom with shower and bath (complete with its own TV, naturally), a master bedroom with a 42-inch television, and a living room with

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comfortable lounge suite and work space.

Admittedly we rarely used the lounge suite, although the complementary internet made the work space our own little concierge station. The room was very comfortable although the air con proved a worthy foe and even calls to maintainable failed to cool the room. For a little splurging, the hotel also boasts four mansion-like villas complete with home theatres and full kitchens.

Shopaholic Shopping is Macau’s favourite pass-time after gambling and with good reason. The Shopping Esplanade at the Encore is home to three of the city’s flagship stores – Cartier, Chanel and Piaget, each of which offer a range of limited-edition pieces only available at Encore.

Pamper Plus The Spa at Encore is truly unique; it’s a massive, tranquil space where each guest has their own suite of rooms, including a dressing room that’s more living room than wardrobe, a dedicated treatment room, and private sauna, steam shower and whirlpool. I especially liked that steam shower, which plays rainforest music as the colours within change hue in time.

The spa offers a wide range of treatments, including a signature four-hand massage and an hour’s soaking time pre or post-massage is always insisted upon. After all, its for your own good.

Dining Encore’s dining is the perfect example of Steve Wynn’s vision for a hotel that would be so much more than just a casino. You can start the night off with a drink in Bar Cristal, with its jewelry box décor and superb selection of classic cocktails, before heading to the Golden Flower, one of the region’s most acclaimed restaurants and home to Tan cuisine and the ‘seven warriors’, a team of chefs which specialize in regional delicacies. If you’re looking for a snack, you can’t go past 99 Noodles, which specialise in hand-pulled noodles for just 18 guests at a time, while Ristorante Il Teatro, as the name suggests, is all about the theatre of food and romance and is located just above the main fountain, the waters of which dance to Italian classics.

Encore at Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Macau, Tel: +853 2888 9966, www.wynnmacau.com

HAVE YOU TRIED...

Biking the Fork

Discover Long Island’s North Fork on two wheels with New York’s premier bike company, Bike & Roll NYC Long Island’s North Fork is a cyclist’s paradise with smooth roads, wide shoulders, interesting stops. The South Fork gets all the attention – what with its Hamptons and all – which is fine for those intrepid travellers who enjoy biking and exploring the quieter North Fork.

Bike & Roll NYC now offer a 22-mile (35.4km) guided tour designed to let you discover all the attractions the North Fork has to offer. Wineries and vineyards, farms, and historic sites, Long Island Sound and Peconic Bay – see it all from the vantage point of two wheels.

This well-engineered guided tour starts in Mattituck. Participants can drive to the starting point or take the Long Island Rail Road (the tour is timed with the LIRR schedule). Catch the 9:16am from Penn Station in New York City, arrive in Mattituck at 11:41am, ride and tour until returning to Mattituck for the 6:34pm train back to the Big Apple. Bike & Roll NYC meets you at

the Mattituck station with a correctly-sized Trek bike and helmet. Your tour includes a gourmet lunch of New York delicacies from Perfect Picnic.

A Bike & Roll NYC vehicle follows the tour, not just to give mechanical support, but to offer a place to store any purchases participants might make from the wineries and farms they visit. The tour includes a visit at a vineyard and award-winning winery, a visit with an artisanal cheesemaker and a tasting of incredibly delicious fresh goat cheese, a tour of an historic lighthouse overlooking the Long Island Sound, a stop among magnificently restored 16th century buildings, and a ride along beautiful Peconic Bay. After returning the bike, participants have plenty of time to browse Mattituck’s famous Love Lane and grab a bite before the train back to the city. www.bikenewyorkcity.com www.explorer-magazine.com

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LANGKAWI

If a half-a-billion-years-old rainforest next to a beach considered one of the world’s ten best doesn’t draw you, a new wellness concept that trades on all of this Malaysian archipelago’s ecological attributes will.

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LANGKAWI

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t’s just past 4 o’clock in the afternoon on Langkawi’s Datai Bay Beach and the cameras are out in full force.

Under an umbrella-like Ketapang Tree so big it casts shade nearly all the way to the tide line, a group of children snap away with pointand-clicks at a Dusky Leaf Monkey perched comfortably on a limb.

A few paces down the shoreline, adults wrapped in beach towels and sarongs turn their lenses toward a tray of coral sea bass and red snapper, hauled in just minutes ago from the three-shades-of-blue Andaman Sea. A little farther along, a woman hovers over a small, almost-translucent crab, trying to forever capture the quirky crustacean in pictures.

“Europeans, I bet,” says Selvam Raman, environmental manager of The Andaman, the Luxury Collection Resort nestled in the dense hillside above the beach where we are standing. “They love it. The same families and groups come every year, to do just this for a couple weeks at a time. I think it relaxes them.”

Every tropical island claims to have an idyllic vibe, and most undoubtedly do. But few offer that vibe in a way as harmoniously and authentically as Pulau Langkawi, the largest of 99 islands that comprise the archipelago of Langkawi.

After all, it’s not the Maldives or Maui that boasts a 550-millionyear-old rainforest. It’s Langkawi.

And it’s not Seychelles or the Whitsundays that possesses Geopark status, a UNESCO recognition for contributions to biodiversity. It’s Langkawi.

Anyone who lives in this piece of paradise off the northwest coast of Malaysia is fully aware of those distinctions, too. In fact, they’re what drew Raman off the peninsula in the first place. He came on holiday in 1991 and decided right then and there this is where he wanted to be.

“So a year later I packed up my bags and left Kuala Lumpur,” he says. “I’ve never looked back.”

Hang around Langkawi for even a few hours and it’s obvious Raman’s come-once-and-stay-forever story is the de facto personal tale around here. Others are mere variations on this theme.

Take Irshad Mobarak, for instance. After spending almost five years as a banker, the Langkawi native decided in 1994 it was time to trade in his dress shoes for sandals and pursue his passion for the great outdoors.

So he launched JungleWalla (www.junglewalla.com) and the rest is history. Nine times per week, he leads sunrise and sunset walking tours through the jungle near Datai Bay on Pulau Langkawi’s northwest coast as a nature guide for The Andaman — tours so informative they have been likened to “walks in the zoo with no cages,” says Raman.

On my second night here, I opt to see for myself. I meet Mobarak in the lobby of the resort and, after arming ourselves with torches, we set off on foot down a dirt path leading into the heart of the forest.

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After all, it’s not the Maldives or Maui that boasts a 550-million-year-old rainforest.

It’s Langkawi.

An hour and a half later, I’m still mesmerized by stories of flying lemurs, fig wasps and centella asiatica, used for centuries as a medicinal herb. The man who looks a lot like actor Laurence Fishburne — but with more defined eyebrows — has produced an award-worthy performance.

“This to me is not work,” says Mobarak, as he puts the torches in the back of his bruised and battered SUV. “This is what I love to do. My goal is to make each walk interesting enough so that those who participate are inspired to continue talking about what they learned. Having that sort of impact is important to me.”

Late that evening, after inhaling an order of Ayam Bunga Kanta (chicken in an aromatic gravy infused with local spices and ginger flower) at The Andaman’s poolside restaurant, Hirwan Anua meets me in the lobby of the resort, where a bellhop is beating a rebana drum to honor the arrival of another guest.

For Anua, the ceremony is nothing new — he’s been here almost two years now and has heard that sound hundreds of times. In fact, he hardly notices it anymore. His attention is well and truly fixed on something that figures to generate a lot more noise soon: V Integrated Wellness (www.vintegratedwellness.com), an innovative health and fitness concept that celebrated its soft launch in March is prepping now for its full-on grand opening in June.

The fitness trainer and program adviser is excited about VIW because, as with everything else in and around Datai Bay, whose beach was called out in the 2008 National Geographic book The 10 Best of Everything, the setting factors significantly into the offering’s identity.

“I wouldn’t be here if I didn’t love how peaceful and precious this part of Langkawi is,” says Anua. “I’m so glad the owner of V holds those

characteristics in high regard, as well.”

Nowhere is the ownership’s commitment to creating a product that meshes seamlessly with its surroundings more evident than at the botanical spa.

Perched high above the bay in the same lush hillside the hotels occupy, the collection of five open-air pavilions doesn’t become perceptible until one reaches the door to the reception area.

The soundtrack is a duet — of the waves lapping below and cicadas singing in the skyscraping trees. Views extend all the way to the Thai island of Tarutao. The scent of exotic massage oils — white grapefruit, sweet orange, Himalayan cedarwood — permeates the premises.

But the spa is just one-fifth of the equation at VIW. Retreats that run the self-improvement gamut (think yoga, meditation and even Tantra); fitness programs that summon the use of one’s own body weight; cuisine that tastes as good as it is good for you; and activities that employ the beach as a platform make up the other four parts.

Even a butterfly farm — an open garden where “guests can go and relax and watch some of Asia’s rarest species flutter about freely,” says Raman — is in the works.

“The bottom line is we want this to be a sanctuary in every sense of the word,” says Christina Low, VIW’s wellness director, “a place where people can experience a heightened sense of awareness about themselves and the world around them.”

The afternoon before my departure, I feel that consciousness in spades, after slowly submerging myself in the sea. What starts as a quick dip turns into a half-an-hour decompression session. Floating on my back, I stare up at those verdant hills until, eventually, my mind’s eye has them fully captured, forever etched in memory. www.explorer-magazine.com

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Nick Walton cruises New South Wales’ stunning Grand Pacific Drive, a route of royal parks and rural tranquillity along some of Australia’s most scenic coastline.

Grand Coastal Adventures

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DRIVER’S DIARY

There is nothing quite like driving along the stunning Australian coastline. It’s seemingly never-ending, so diverse and so driverfriendly, and although we as travellers are steadily spending more time in the air than on four wheels (or even two), Australia remains a driving nation, home to the southern road trip, and for people looking to explore beyond Sydney’s markets and harbour, there is no road quite like the Grand Pacific Drive.

Reaching from Sydney’s most southern suburbs- bush-wreathed hamlets set on the state’s iconic sandstone ridges, the route officially starts in the heart of the lush Royal National Park, and winds its way south to the cosmopolitan café culture and surf lines of Wollongong, the state’s second city, and beyond to the rural beauty of Shoalhaven. Taking in some of some of New South Wales’ most breathtaking scenery, the Grand Pacific Drive gives access to a host of attractions and tiny coastal hamlets, each destinations in themselves often overlooked before the completion of key aspects of the drive.

The 140km drive begins at the Royal National Park, a 45 minutes drive from Sydney’s CBD. Unbeknown to many, The Royal National Park is the second oldest national park in the world and is home to some of the region’s most pristine beaches, which you’ll regularly have all to yourself, as well as ancient Aboriginal cave art and some great walking tracks.

From there its all about bay hopping, taking in the sights and sounds, the local craft markets and art galleries, or just having a coffee on the beachfront for a spot of people watching – the hamlets of Coalcliff and Stanwell Park, to name a few, are always welcoming.

The stunning stretch of road north of Wollongong is best known for its iconic Sea Cliff Bridge, which clings to the rocky coastline and almost teases the sea below as it winds its way round the bends, far above the thundering surf below. The 665m long bridge is an engineering feat and has made this stunning stretch of coastline accessible to all – it’s also had its fair share of automotive commercial cameos. Why not try your hand at hang gliding from Bald Hill, or visit the massive Hindu temple at Helensburgh, though the most popular attraction seems to be walking the bridge at sunset.

Wollonggong has become increasingly cosmopolitan and is a great place with which to break your journey up, whether it’s for some sun worshipping on North Wollongong Beach, a meditation class at Nan Tien Temple, the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere, or for a spot of taste testing at the Five Island’s Brewery.

If you feel like a detour, head inland to discover Mt Keira and Mt Kembla.

Take in the road before you from the Mt Keira Lookout, explore pristine bush walking or dive into the history books at the former coal mining town of Mt Kembla Village. Otherwise Shellharbour is a postcard perfect late summer destination and a great one for families. Scuba divers will not be disappointed with the marine life around Bass Point while kids can take a surfing lesson at The Farm, located in the Killalea State Park. Children of all ages will also love the beautifully-restored aircraft of the HARS Australian Historical Flying Museum.

Finally, Shoalhaven is best known for its whale and dolphin spotting, perhaps followed by some vino at Coolangatta Estate vineyard? You can even find friendly eastern grey kangaroos at Pebbly Beach.

Few stretches of coastline offer so much diversity and such stunning scenery as the Grand Pacific Drive, cementing Australia as the true home to the road trip.

Getting There: Qantas (qantas.com) has an extensive network from Sydney to destinations around the world.

Where to Stay: The Novotel Wollongong Northbeach (+61 2 4224 3111, www.novotelnorthbeach.com.au) is a great place from which to explore the region.

More Info: www.grandpacificdrive.com.au www.explorer-magazine.com

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West Bound Weekend

Explorer reader Simone Pitts explores Hangzhou, one of China’s most vibrant and emerging destinations.

After the long summer break we did not feel like packing bags again in mid September. At the same time we still wanted to keep the family tradition of surprising grandma with a nice trip that didn’t include too much physical activity and didn’t her to melt at the beach at 35 degrees Celsius. With both kids in school now, it also needed to be an easy to reach destination and one worth packing an entire family up for just a long weekend.

Our choice was Hangzhou, which can be reached either directly from Hong Kong with Dragonair or via Shanghai by bullet train. It felt like Hangzhou started to get a lot of coverage in the media for being one of China’s most beautiful cities and we thought we should go there before mass tourism starts to discover the place. We were right in the sense that we did not see too many gweilos (foreigners), but forgot about the millions of Chinese who also like to travel. And of course we picked a holiday week for the Chinese, so our weekend motto became “you are never alone in China”. Asking local expats for recommendations for 32

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places to visit, we were told to “avoid the West Lake this weekend!” – oh well, that’s what we came for in the first place.

Not really knowing what to expect from famous West Lake, and despite the discouraging advice, we walked its shores, trying to uncover what holds such fascination. After three days we still had not seen the lake in its entirety and, come to think about it, we never saw the sun on West Lake. Trying to be a glass half full person I can report that I have never seen that many shades of gray. This may sound cynical but it is actually what gives the location the much adored moodiness and mysterious atmosphere – traditional boats of all kinds and sizes, some with golden roofs, appearing out of the fog, the dark silhouette of a temple at the waterfront against the light gray of the lake, rolling hills that cannot really be seen but that become apparent through different tones of gray in the background. The essence of West Lake seems most pronounced in the early morning, thus I took home beautiful memories of our seven a.m. runs along Su Causeway.

READERS REPORT

As our base we had chosen the Shangri-La hotel. The location is exceptional, with great views over the lake from the breakfast area on the sixth floor, but the hotel to us said faded glory despite being less than twenty years old. The rooms were spacious and clean, however not recommended for people with dust mite allergies as our four year old daughter will attest. For those who don’t like making an effort and look for lunch and dinner options outside the hotel, the Shangri-La is the perfect place since it offered different buffets in the breakfast area almost non-stop throughout the day.

We had decided to trust TripAdvisor and went to the restaurant Wai Po Jia in town for lunch and to the restaurant Jin Sha at the Four Seasons twice for dinner, which is supposed to be one of the better restaurants in town. We liked the food as well as the ambiance in both places, especially the Jin Sha restaurant which was a terrific experience – yummy dishes and a modern Chinese décor contributed to two wonderful dinners. As we have a tradition on trips to bring our overtired kids to the restaurant, keep them awake until the food arrives and then see them crash, we almost always put the staff to the test to come up with creative ideas to keep the kids comfortable. For those intending to do the trip with kids as well, our kids rated the Jin Sha restaurant as one of the best “sleepable” restaurants they have been to.

Another recommendation is to venture out to the area around the southern side of West Lake. Despite lots of Chinese tourists we felt as

if that area exhaled some kind of quietness and calm when walking or driving through the tea plantations and villages, which grow the famous Dragon Well Tea, or dense forests covering the rolling hills around the city. This atmosphere is particularly felt in the Aman hotel which is a former tea village in the hills south of West Lake. A path winds through the hotel compound and monks from the nearby monastery, dressed in their orange robes, are a common sight. We had lunch in one of the hotel tea rooms and very much enjoyed it.

A big problem being a tourist in Hangzhou is the taxi situation, especially when you come from Hong Kong and are used to seeing more taxis than other cars on the streets. The traffic congestion was worse than in Hong Kong at rush hour and it is common knowledge that there are not enough taxis around. Having one’s focus on the serenity of the West Lake, this comes as an unpleasant surprise.

Coming in from the airport my husband questioned what made me book a trip to another faceless Chinese city with endless rows of empty apartment blocks and office towers. A walk past that area and into the heart of the city changed that perspective. Hangzhou does have some character and although it cannot be described as “beautiful” it feels “real”, so switching off from the West Lake for a while and taking a stroll through some parts of the city can be an interesting experience.

Overall, we had a memorable trip and would recommend it to anyone who is looking for a nice weekend destination in China. www.explorer-magazine.com

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