Explore Ubud 3rd Edition by Explore Ubud

FOREWORD Om Swastiastu Welcome to the third edition of Explore Ubud, a pocket companion for visitors and residents alike, with articles and chapters on Ubud’s top attractions, must-do activities, and things to see and do beyond Ubud. Every four months we update the guide with topical information, and we hope that the fresh articles and colourful images in this new issue will provide even more of an inspiration to visit Ubud and Bali’s many sights.

An iconic representation of Bali, Hanoman and The Barong, key figures in the visual, exciting and entertaining Balinese dance-drama performances. Photo courtesy of GSB

In this issue, we explore Bali’s north coast and visit the dive destination of Pemuteran, the hot springs of Banjar, the fresh spring water pool of Air Sanih, and the village of Tejakula. Finally, we invite budding photographers to submit a photo for our “last image” page, at the end of the book. We will pay a nominal amount for what we consider to be the best photograph to reflect Ubud and the Balinese culture, and it will be published in the third edition. Please send your high resolution entries to: putu@geministudio-bali.com Enjoy your stay! Om Shanthi… Shanthi… Shanthi Om

THE PUBLISHER

AZ OF UBUD company listing, touring bali, bali’s north coast, last image

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ubud crossroad

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goa gajah

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ubud monkey forest

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ARTS and FESTIVALS bali arts & crafts, ubud/bali festivals, ubud/gianyar culture event, balinese dances, tips for first time visitors

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shopping in ubud, ubud accommodation, eating out, ubud culture dance performances, ubud spas, yoga in ubud, sport and adventure

ubud market

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ACTIVITIES and PLEASURE

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complete with four sections ubud map, and map of bali

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EXPLORE UBUD ubud’s surround villages, ubud palace and museum, ubud market, ubud’s monkey forest, the heron of petulu, tegallalang ceking ricefield

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the history of ubud, welcome to ubud village, getting to ubud

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petulu heron JL . R AYA KEDEWATAN

INTRODUCTION

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CONTENTS

GOA GAJAH

technical advisor santoz graphic designer putu santosa photographer igst ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani it nyoman suryadi finance susilawati distribution gemini studio-bali team publisher gemini studio-bali, jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat-bali 80361, phone: +62 361 8495479, +62 361 8447982, email: sales@geministudio-bali.com, phone 081 353320709 director deddy rida sukawati Ssn. Views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. All material copyright ©2015 gemini studio-bali. The publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

INTRODUCTION

The History of Ubud

bud is Bali’s spiritual, artistic and cultural heart. It has long been known as a mystical place, rich in healing powers and important as a source of medicinal herbs and plants. In fact, it gets its name from the ancient Balinese word, ‘ubad,’ which means medicine. From as long ago as the eighth century, noble families from all over Bali sent their sick to Ubud to be cured, and the tradition continues today – with visitors from all over the world seeking out the healing therapies, alternative medicines and wellness programmes for which Ubud is so famous. The area has also become a soughtafter destination for spiritual tourists, which began with yoga teachers bringing students to find serenity in what was then a sleepy village.

It was also back in the eighth century that the Javanese Buddhist priest Rsi Marhandya came to Bali and meditated at the confluence of the two rivers at Campuhan. Here he founded the Gunung Lebah Temple on the valley floor, which was later expanded by Nirartha, the Javanese priest who is regarded as the founder of Bali’s Hindu practices and rituals. The site still remains a pilgrim destination. More temples were established over the next 400 hundred years, including the temple complex at Gunung Kawi, and the cave temples at Goa Gajah. Many dances, dramas and rituals were established and are still practised in Ubud today. The Majapahit kingdom conquered Bali in the mid 14th century, with the final victory against the Pejeng

Dynasty centred at Bedulu, just to the east of Ubud. A great blossoming of Balinese culture followed, and the ancestry of Ubud’s current day aristocratic families can be traced back to this period. In the sixteenth century, there was a total transplantation of the Majapahit Kingdom to Bali as the Islamisation of Java forced them eastwards. The balance of power swayed between the various dynasties and feudal lords, but the Ubud area remained a very important mechanism in the various regencies that ruled Bali. In the late nineteenth century, Ubud became the seat of feudal lords who owed their allegiance to the king of Gianyar, which at that time was the most powerful of Bali’s southern states. The lords were members of the ‘satriya’ family of Sukawati, and were significant supporters of Ubud’s increasingly renowned arts scene. In 1900, Ubud became a Dutch protectorate at its own request, and the colonialists allowed the traditional arts and culture of the area to remain relatively unchanged. The modern era of Ubud began in the 1930s, when foreign artists, such as Walter Spies and Rudolph Bonnet, were encouraged by the royal family to reside in Ubud, These artists, and others, were instrumental in promoting an understanding of Balinese art and culture worldwide, and entertained many celebrities including Charlie Chaplin, Noël Coward, Barbara Hutton, H.G. Wells and Vicki Baum. A new burst of creative energy came in 1960s in the wake of Dutch painter Arie Smit and the development of the Young Artists Movement. From the 1960s onwards, while the infrastructure was still very limited, intrepid travellers started to arrive. Ubud has since developed rapidly into a wellknown, top-class international destination, which today still maintains its integrity as the hub of Balinese art and culture.

Welcome To Ubud Village

et well away from the humid southern plains, the mayhem and the hedonistic excesses of Kuta and Seminyak, Ubud has long been recognised as Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural hub. This is mainly thanks to a community of expatriate painters, writers, scholars and composers who made their homes here in the 1930s. The most notable of these early foreign residents was Walter Spies, a Russian-born German painter, credited with attracting the attention of Western cultural figures to Balinese art, and influencing the direction of Balinese art and drama.

As tourism escalated in the ’70s and ’80s, Ubud still attracted bohemians and artists, along with backpacking cosmic seekers, many of whom chose to stay. They built themselves simple bamboo huts in the rice fields, decked out with wobbly bamboo furnishings, floor cushions and batik sarong curtains. Nowadays, Ubud is a conglomeration of villages. Its expat residents still include a core of artists, authors, anthropologists and musicians, as well as people who are actively involved in mysticism, environmentalism, yoga and alternative healing. It is not surprising therefore that Ubud hosts two internationallyacclaimed festivals every year: the BaliSpirit Festival rejoicing in yoga, dance and music, and the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, which has made it a hot spot for the literati glitterati. Ubud is home to a small treasure trove of museums and galleries, featuring traditional and modern work including paintings, ceramics, carvings, sculpture, batik, weaving and photography. In the neighbouring villages, you can watch the island’s mos taccomplished painters, stonemasons, woodcarvers, mask makers and silversmiths at work. It is also a great place for shopping: classic, contemporary and abstract paintings, plus a massive range of crafts including gold and silver jewellery, woodcarvings, fabrics, clothing, pottery, batik, paintings, metalwork and antiques can all be found in the town’s numerous galleries and shops. The market sells handicrafts, garments, spices and foods, and Ubud even has its own sacred Monkey Forest. Restaurants are plentiful, although nightlife is more limited. Ubud is the seat of the Sukawati Royal Family; the palace is centrally located and open to the public. There are many, well-presented, cultural performances staged here, in particular the famous Kecak dance, the fire dance, the monkey dance and the Legong dance.

Due to its location, 250 metres above sea level in the foothills of Bali’s central mountain range, Ubud enjoys a cooler, fresher and generally more pleasant climate than the southern coastal regions. Furthermore, it is surrounded by most of the attributes that entice people to this exceptionally beautiful island – traditional art and craft communities, ancient temples, palaces, emerald rice terraces, vertical river gorges, coconut palms and lush jungle. Knee-buckling views incorporating the distant volcanoes are among the most prized in the world. Ubud’s visitors are those in search of art, culture, nature, relaxation and inspiration; activities include meditation, yoga, jungle trekking, mountain cycling and white water rafting. Numerous trails offer memorable walks and the opportunity to witness time-honoured methods of agriculture. The area is already renowned for the world-class architecture of its exclusive hideaways, boutique hotels and splendid holiday rental villas, yet Ubud also offers the choice of simple family homestays and modest hotels, all of which combines to make it the perfect base when visiting Bali.

Getting to Ubud

bud is located 38km from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 34km from Kuta; 31 km from Seminyak; 26km from Sanur; 45km from Candidasa; and 72km from Lovina.

All roads in Bali seem to lead to Ubud. If you are approaching from the airport or Sanur, head north towards Batubulan and follow the signs for Kedewatan, Payangan and Kintamani. As you approach Sayan you will see the Sayan petrol station on your right. Turn right at the petrol station onto Jl Raya Singakerta. Continue through Nyuh Kuning and turn left onto Jl Raya Pengosekan. This will bring you into Ubud on the Monkey Forest Road. Alternatively continue along the Sayan Ridge and about 150m after the Amandari Resort turn right into Jl Raya Lungsiakan, which becomes Jl Raya Sanggingan. This will bring you onto Jl Raya Ubud via the Campuhan Bridge. If you are coming from Seminyak or Kerobokan head northwest and approach Ubud via Jl Raya Mambal, which will bring you to traffic lights at a set of crossroads. Turn left and follow the road towards Sayan; when you get to the petrol station you can follow the directions above. From Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s international airport, a car journey to Ubud takes approximately 60 - 75 minutes depending on the traffic. If you have pre-booked a hotel and not made prior arrangements for an airport transfer, there is a taxi service from the airport that you can use; fixed rates to various destinations are posted on a board at the taxi counter. The fixed rates are about 50 percent more expensive than metered taxi rates. If you are on a tight budget and are prepared to drag your luggage outside the airport gates, you will be able to flag

down a taxi and pay the metered fare. There are no other forms of public transport from the airport apart from airport taxis and hotel pick-up services. Shuttle services operate daily to Ubud from Kuta, Sanur, Lovina and Candidasa. Tickets are available from most hotels and tourist agencies. Chartering a car or minivan with driver can be done by the half-day or full-day. Rates are cheaper if negotiated on the street rather than from your hotel.

Rates vary according to the kind of vehicle, its condition, to the kind of vehicle, its condition, actual travel time, and total number of hours hired. This amount should include fuel. Alternatively you can rent a car yourself and pay per day for the services of a driver. If you are looking to rent a self-drive car, you must have an International Driving Permit. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also advisable to pay the extra cost to ensure you have full insurance coverage. Petrol is not included. Note: Drive on the left side of the road. Bear in mind that driving in Bali can be dangerous. Generally, drivers do not drive defensively, the roads are narrow and poorly maintained, and dogs and chickens frequently dart into the road. Street lighting at night is limited. If you collide with anything, you are responsible for all costs. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safer to hire a driver while

you relax and enjoy the sights. Motorcyles are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the island, but there are risks due to heavy traffic and poor roads. Helmets are required by law but the cheap ones provided by rental agencies offer little protection. Bring your own or buy a good one from a local shop. Drive slowly and defensively, as more and more people are injured or killed every year in accidents. The cost of motorbike hire varies according to the model, condition of the machine, length of rental, and time of year. Petrol is not included. Buy full insurance and be sure to test drive it to check that everything is in working order, especially brakes and lights. Most rental bikes are 125cc or smaller. You must have an International Driving Permit valid for motorcycles, or else go to the Denpasar Police Office to obtain a temporary permit, valid for three months in Bali only.

Ubudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Surrounding Villages

he artisan villages surrounding Ubud are home to the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most accomplished painters, dancers, musicians, stone carvers, woodcarvers, silversmiths, mask makers, puppeteers and more. Each village has its own occupational specialty and artistry, and these skills are passed down through generations of Balinese families. In recent years, it has become difficult to distinguish Ubud itself from the communities that surround it, but each village has a distinct identity. Most are set in beautiful rural areas, and a short walk or bicycle ride is usually all it takes to reach yet another enchanting destination for an easy half-day of sightseeing. Celuk The silversmith village of Celuk comprises three kilometres of main road bordered by a maze of backstreets full of silver workshops and outlets. These are not street-front shops, but showrooms behind the walls of traditional Balinese compound homes. Here, decorative silver rings, bangles, necklaces, bracelets, pendants and accessories are produced by master craftsmen, whose intricate skills and trade secrets have been passed down through generations of families. Using traditional techniques and the most basic of tools, the Balinese silversmiths handcraft their jewellery from silver that is mined in other parts of Indonesia, brought to Bali, and then combined with small amounts of copper to form sterling silver. Each component is created from sterling silver sheets, which are cut, shaped, soldered, filed, finished and fabricated into intricate designs, enhanced by a technique called granulation, where small pellets and tiny coiled silver wires and are heated until soft enough to adhere to the piece, in order to form a pattern or decorative feature. This is considered to be a very skilled technique as the heat must be perfectly controlled to solder the delicate wire or silver pellets to the underlying silver without damaging it. The jewellery is often set with precious and semi-precious gemstones. Styles are distinctive, and often highly ornate with fine filigree work. If you visit the workshops of Celuk with their dirt floors and simple wooden benches, you can watch the versatile, world-renowned artisans demonstrating the exceptional quality and complexity of their work, setting them apart from the imitators and making their products a very special addition to any jewellery collection. The workshops are always willing to fulfil special orders and will work to any design. Despite the fixed prices, bargaining is expected and you will be able to purchase the jewellery for much lower prices than you would have to pay in the shops of Australia, Europe or America.

EXPLORE UBUD BATUBULAN The village of Batubulan, meaning moonstone, is famous for its stone carvings. These are exhibited all along the main road and many are crafted from ‘paras,’ which is composed of compressed clay and volcanic ash found in nearby ravines. It’s so soft and porous that the tropical climate wears it down, making it necessary for temple carvings to be replaced every few decades. Batubulan is also home to the Bali Bird Park. Here, paved paths lead through two hectares of landscaped gardens where more than 1,000 specimens of over 250 exotic bird species live in well-designed aviaries. The ticket includes entry to the adjacent Rimba Reptil Park, which houses one of Indonesia’s biggest collections of rare reptiles and amphibians. Finally, Batubulan is the place to come if you’re interested in seeing some Balinese dance performances, including the Barong dance and trance dances, which are performed here for visitors.

silver celuk

Sukawati Sukawati, meaning beautiful joy, is a flourishing market town famous for handicrafts. During the 18th century, it was the centre of a powerful kingdom.

‘Kain prada’ cloth, gold-leafed by hand in the past, is silkscreened by Sukawati’s villagers for costumes and shrines, and made into lovely temple parasols and dance fans. Look out for the road side shops selling these items. Sukawati is even more famous for producing some of Bali’s best ‘dalang’ (puppeteers), who make their own ‘wayang kulit’, or leather puppets, delicately carved from thin cattle hide and then painted. The dalang’s work is very complicated and it takes years to master the craft. The art market (Pasar Seni) covers two floors, and sells everything from wind chimes and statues to clothing, paintings and dance costumes. Items vary in quality, but all are much less expensive than at the larger art shops and even at stalls in Kuta. Bargaining is expected. Blahbatuh Blahbatuh is famous for the temple of Pura Gaduh, associated with Kebo Iwo, the legendary giant from the 14thcentury kingdom of Bedulu. The story goes that Gajah Mada, prime minister of the Javanese Majapahit kingdom, realised he couldn’t conquer Bali as long as Kebo Iwo was alive so he hatched a plan and

tricked Kebo Iwo into digging a well, which the eager giant did with his bare hands. When he was deep down inside, Gajah Mada ordered his soldiers to fill in the hole, burying him alive. With his dying breath, Kebo Iwo swore that since he was covered with chalky white dust, he would return as a giant albino ‘kebo’ (water buffalo), and subjugate the Javanese for 300 years. The curse came true with the Dutch colonial rule of Java from the 17th to the 20th century. At the Sidha Karya Gamelan Foundry, you can watch men pump the bellows to fire up the heat for metal forging. Others use large mallets to hammer the heated bronze into the desired shapes for musical instruments. Instrument cases also are carved and gilded here.

Mas The village of Mas, meaning gold, is best known for its intricate woodcarvings and masks, and the road through it is solidly lined with craft shops – where visitors can see the carvers at work – as well as workshops producing teak furniture, and a string of galleries. The famous mask maker, Ida Bagus Anom has a studio along the main road. He has carved masks for performance artists

from all over the world and his distinctive yawning masks have been widely copied throughout the island. Also worth visiting is Njana Tilem Gallery, showcasing the work of two of Bali’s most talented wood sculptors, the late Ida Bagus Njana and his son Ida Bagus Tilem. Many of the inhabitants of Mas are ‘brahmana,’ the priestly caste who trace their roots back to Danghyang Nirartha. This 16th-century Javanese high priest founded the temple, Pura Taman Pule, named after the ‘pule’ tree (Alstonia scholaris), which is used for making masks.

Peliatan Peliatan is well known for its gamelan and dance troupes, which have represented Bali overseas and gained international prominence. The musicians and dancers from the village are passionate about preserving and developing the Peliatan style of music and dance and even now, many young children of elementary school age are still keen to learn. Lessons are available on request for visitors who wish to study classical, modern dance or music with some of Peliatan’s well known musicians and dancers at the ‘Balerung Mandera Srinertya Waditra’ building,

which was named after Anak Agung Gede Mandera, a famous musician and choreographer who was one of the founders of the Gong Kebyar style of music and dance in Peliatan in 1926-27. Bedulu The farming village of Bedulu was once the seat of the old Balinese kingdom of Pejeng – a long tongue of land between the Petanu and Pakrisan rivers – and the last indigenous dynasty to hold out against the mighty Majapahit Empire, which invaded Bali in 1343. Today this area is home to some of Bali’s most famous monuments and relics, including and Goa Gajah, a cave that dates back to the 11th century and was the supposed dwelling place of a Buddhist priest. Just above the cave entrance is a monstrous

head with its hands appearing to push apart its fanged gaping mouth. The demonic face, with bulging eyes and large earplugs, is a Boma figure that frightens away evil. The village of Bedulu is also home to Museum Purbakala, a museum of archaeology, which exhibits pre-Hindu artifacts, stone carvings and old Chinese porcelain. Pura Samuan Tiga is the temple of ‘the meeting of the three parties;’ it stages an eleven day ceremony during the 10th full moon.

Kemenuh Back in the 1970s and ’80s, the village of Kemenuh had one of the strongest economies in the Gianyar District, and its master carvers produced magnificent artefacts that today are held in revere in museums worldwide. It is known for its huge Garuda statues and other mythical figures, either painted or unpainted, and up to three metres in height, as well as for its unique driftwood carvings. Most of the carvings are done inside family compounds and often the only advertisements are small signs on the compound gates. The Pura Dalem temple of Kemenuh is worth visiting for its beautiful and intricate carvings.

The village has two soft trekking paths through the beautiful natural scenery of the Petanu River valley. The main attraction is the 20-metre-high Tegenungan Waterfall, and to get here you have to go down 172 stairs. Along the way, you will find a public bath used by local people, which is divided into two separate areas, for men and women.

Bona The village of Bona specialises in products woven from dried lontar fan-palm leaves, including good quality baskets, hats, sandals, wallets, handbags, fans, dolls, birds, flowers, and up-to-three-metretall Christmas trees. Plain and spotted bamboo chairs, beds and tables, or plain or ornate wooden and cane furniture can be ordered here. Bona is also the place where the dramatic modern kecak dance was born. Kecak was originally the music that accompanied the sacred Sanghyang dance, which could only be staged in the temple. Then in the early 1930s, artists from Bona developed a fire dance using the story of Ramayana as a substitute for the Sanghyang dance, so that it could be performed in public.

Petulu Every day in the late afternoon, a remarkable, natural phenomenon occurs in the tiny village of Petulu as thousands of white herons fly in to roost for the night. It’s a spectacular sight as the huge flocks of birds arrive in a steady throng, filling the sky, flying in formation, wheeling, drifting, sailing and finally landing in the tall palms and old bunut (fig) trees, where they squabble over prime perches, turning the tree tops white like snow and splattering the roadsides with their droppings. Village tradition dictates that the herons, which are considered sacred, may not be disturbed while they roost but visitors can sit at a simple viewing platform beside the rice fields and watch the roosting activities. The villagers of Petulu believe that the herons are manifestations of the souls of the Balinese who were killed – and buried without due rites – during the anticommunist massacre in Indonesia in 1965/66.

Tegallalang The wood carving village of Tegallalang, meaning grass fields, is very much a tourist trap, but it is worth braving the hordes of trinket peddlers to view the

stunning sculptured rice terraces here. If you are heading north, look for the picture postcard view across the valley on your right-hand side. The location is cool and breezy with lots of small viewing areas where you can stop for refreshments while you take photos. Painters also love this place. A winding river valley is carved into steep embankments, and the long-stemmed ‘padi Bali’ (indigenous Balinese rice) is grown here. Workshops and simple wholesale outlets line the road for 5km, selling all sorts of wooden handicrafts including carved mythical lions, horses, human figures, dogs, dragons, vases, frogs, kangaroos, cats, ornate totems, panels, doors, windows, tables and the many brilliant forms of creativity – extending even to large-scale dinosaurs, and some magnificent Garuda statues. Taro The ancient village of Taro marks the exact centre of the island. According to legend, this was where the 8th century itinerant Javanese priest, Rsi Markandya, was sent by the gods on a mission to establish a settlement in the forest. It is also the source of Bali’s sacred albino

buffalo. Since the locals believe this albino stock is holy, they are not used for work, may not be sold or eaten, and are strictly quarantined to keep the breed pure. Elephant Safari Park at Taro is an exceptional example of eco-tourism providing sanctuary for 30 Sumatran elephants. Here, you and your children can enjoy the wonderful and unforgettable experience of meeting, hand-feeding, touching, stroking and observing these amazing, highly intelligent creatures, rescued from the Indonesian island of Sumatra. You can even ride the elephants on a safari tour through the park (kids love this) and watch elephant talent shows. Sebatu Sebatu is a village of woodcarvers and musicians. The temple is an exceptionally pretty spot against a backdrop of rich green foliage. In front of the temple are a few shops displaying a mass of wooden crafts. Look for sensual figures and exquisitely carved garuda statues. Note the difference between the masks of Mas and those of Sebatu. The lines and colours of the masks from Mas are pure, while those of Sebatu are more

exuberant. Mas makes masks of the gods, whereas Sebatu makes devil masks. Every three days the village market takes place in the area in front of the temple. Just outside is a bathing place with stone statues of maidens spouting water, carved stone dragons, sacred golden carp, and lichen covered ancient walls. The village is very active in music and dance and home to a noted dance troupe that once toured the world. Incredibly this village possesses three orchestras.

Kedewatan Kedewatan, meaning divine place, is an area believed to be blessed by the gods; a village with outstanding views and sweet rambutan fruit trees, where the mountain waters of the Ayung River carve a meandering pathway through a landscape of rich tropical greenery. The challenging rapids of Ayung River in the west of the village have attracted many tourists to enjoy an action-packed white water rafting journey through class II and III rapids, against an awesome backdrop of pristine rainforest, towering gorges, emerald rice terraces and dramatic waterfalls. There are quite a number of different operators, the most reputable of

which boast exemplary safety standards with professional, highly-trained and experienced guides piloting the safetyequipped rafts. Hot showers at the end are followed by a gourmet buffet feast. A traditional Barong dance drama performance is performed at 7pm every Thursday and Sunday at the main temple in Kedewatan. The village is also famous for its chicken rice which has become something of an attraction for tourists. Payangan Payangan is a charming, cool village hamlet located along the banks of the Ayung River just 13 km north of Ubud en route to the eastern mountains. Based at the foothills of Bali's central chain of volcanic mountains, the area is blessed with a fertile landscape and temperate

weather conditions. There is a busy fruit and vegetable market here every three days, rambutans are cultivated here and also in this region you will find vanilla, durian, pineapples and coconut, cocoa, avocado and orange plantations, beautiful rice terraces, thick jungle, and giant bamboo forests. Further north and more rural, is home to a clutch of ultra-expensive luxury resorts such as the Amandari, Alila Ubud, Hanging Gardens of Ubud, Ayung Resort and Como Shambhala Estate. Even if you can’t afford to stay here, have a meal at any one of the hotels’ highly rated restaurants and enjoy the valley views and the world class architecture.

Tampaksiring Tampaksiring is the location of the 10th Century holy spring and temple of Tirta Empul. Possessing magical powers and believed to be the elixir of immortality, the gin-clear freshwater springs bubble up into a large tank within the temple and gush out through waterspouts into a bathing pool, where elaborate carvings adorn the lichen covered walls. Also at Tampaksiring, you will find Gunung Kawi, a blinding green water

canyon surrounded by swaying fields of indigenous Balinese rice, known as ‘padi Bali’. Approached via a steep descent through stunning scenery, this is one of the prettiest places on the island. Here you will see ten ancient royal shrines dedicated to 11th century Balinese royalty, carved out of the rock face of the gorge of the Pakerisan River. Finally, Pura Mengening is a small ‘Clear Water Temple’ with a holy spring under a banyan tree. Nearby is a larger temple with a restored ancient building inside resembling the temple façades at Pura Gunung Kawi.

The moon exploded and killed him, then fell to the ground and cracked. The kettledrum is venerated by villagers, but it is never sounded because no one dares touch it. Nearby is Pura Pusering Jagat, a large temple where childless couples come to pray for children. A depression in the ground is the navel of this ‘Temple of the Navel of the Universe’. Offerings placed here vanish and allegedly re-appear far away at Pura Dalem Peed on Nusa Penida off the southeast coast.

PEJENG At Pejeng, four kilometres east of Ubud, is Pura Panataran Sasih, which contains the famous bronze gong known as the Moon of Pejeng, said to be over 2000 years old. This is the largest, single cast, bronze kettledrum in the world, measuring 1.6m in diameter and 1.8m in height. According to legend, the drum used to be the wheel of the chariot that drives the moon on its nocturnal journey through the sky. This illuminated wheel fell from the heavens and crash-landed in a tree. A thief, disturbed by the light, urinated on it to extinguish the glow.

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Ubud Palace and Museums

n Puri Saren Agung (Royal Palace)

Puri Saren Agung on the corner of Jl Raya Ubud and Jl Suweta is Ubud’s royal palace and home to the Sukawati royal family. Featuring a series of splendid pavilions with richly carved doors, most of the buildings were designed by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Bali’s most famous architect, artist and carver, and were erected following a devastating 1917 earthquake. The front courtyard is open to the public, and traditional dance performances are held here every evening. This is by far the best and most dramatic setting for the performing arts in Ubud. n Neka Art Museum

Neka Art Museum on Jl Raya Sanggingan was founded in 1976 by former school teacher Suteja Neka, one of Indonesia’s foremost art connoisseurs. Here, a series of pavilions amid manicured gardens presents an outstanding collection of artwork showing the different historical styles of Balinese painting. The Balinese Painting Hall contains Balinese works ranging from the classical narrative ‘wayang’ (puppet) style to the Ubud and Batuan styles. The large Arie Smit Pavilion is devoted to the work of this Dutch-born artist along with works by his students of the Young Artists school, plus contemporary Balinese art in a wide range of styles. Works by Indonesian artists are displayed in the Contemporary Indonesian Art Hall, while the East-West Annexe has works by foreign artists such as Miguel Covarrubias, Rudolf Bonnet, Han Snel and Donald Friend. A special display features black-and-white photographs of Bali during the late 1930s and early 1940s, taken by Robert Koke, while the Lempad Pavilion has one of the largest collections of drawings by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. n Museum Puri Lukisan

Museum Puri Lukisan on Jl Raya Ubud is set in attractive gardens with lotus ponds. Founded in 1956, the excellent collection showcases the richness of

traditional and modern Balinese art. The main building features Balinese paintings and sculptures from the 1930s, including works by the Pitamaha artists and fine drawings by the great I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, whose fluid classical scenes gained him the most recognition. A second gallery displays works by the Young Artists from the 1960s as well as traditional and modern Balinese art. The main building features Balinese paintings and sculptures from the 1930s, including works by the Pitamaha artists and fine drawings by the great I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, whose fluid classical scenes gained him the most recognition. A second gallery displays works by the Young Artists from the 1960s as well as traditional and contemporary paintings. This gallery is a great introduction to the principal genres of art practised in Bali. n Blanco Renaissance Museum

The late Spanish artist Antonio Blanco (1926–99) built a garden home-studio at the top of a steep driveway beside Campuhan Bridge. The flamboyant Blanco is most well known for his rather erotic paintings of his favourite models: his Balinese wife and their daughter. n Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA)

Set in landscaped grounds at Pengosekan, the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) was opened in 1996 by art dealer Anak Agung Rai. The upper floor of the main gallery is dedicated to Balinese paintings, some of them from the 1930s, while the lower floor features classical ‘wayang’ (puppet) style works from the early 1900s, antique textiles and contemporary Indonesian art. Another building displays works by famous artists, including the only paintings in Bali by the German Walter Spies. n Rudana Museum

On the main Mas–Denpasar road, the Rudana Museum opened in 1995, and is owned by Nyoman Rudana, a local politician and art enthusiast. The top floor of this three-storey museum features works in the traditional Balinese styles. The first and the lower floors display works by well-known Indonesian contemporary artists, including a big display of exquisite wooden sculptures.

Ubud Market

bud’s vibrant and central market is where the local people do their shopping early each morning before much of the fresh produce is whisked away to make room for touristoriented handicrafts. Vibrant and colourful, everything sold in the market is either grown, crafted, or produced in Bali. Coffee beans, fruits, vegetables, garlic, shallots, hardware, textiles, baskets and bamboo crafts are all available somewhere amid the rich aromas, ripe smells and chaos of the heaped stalls. The narrow alleyways are crammed with vendors, buyers, and produce stretching in all directions. If you want to experience the traditional aspects of the food market, go before breakfast and you’ll find weird and wonderful tropical fruits and vegetables, eggs, fish and meat.

Among the other sights, sounds and aromas, you will see women serving vegetarian ‘bubur,’ which is rice porridge slapped upon a banana leaf and topped with roasted coconut, sprouts, greens and spicy chilli sambal. Look for the ready-made tiny woven palm frond trays, lined with banana leaf and containing a symbolic assortment of flower petals. These are known as ‘canang,’ and are the Balinese daily offerings to the gods. The flower most commonly used in these offerings, and cultivated specifically for this purpose, is the blue hydrangea, and you will also find hydrangea and various other flower petals for sale; the flower petal vendors make a colourful sight, and the air is scented with sweet fragrance.

Other foodstuffs include peanuts, cashews, flour, lentils, rice and palm sugar, while snacks include ‘krupuk’ (crispy crackers made from rice or sago flour mixed with shrimp paste, fish flakes or fruit). Your sense of sight and sense of smell will be bombarded with spices such as cardamom root, turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, vanilla, long cinnamon sticks, galangal and chilli. As you walk through the crowded alleys, look out for the ‘daluman’ stall, where the market’s most respected lady mixologist prepares an ominouslooking dark green concoction. If you sit at her trestle table, she will blend the mixture with a swirl of coconut milk, a drizzle of liquid palm sugar and a flourish that will convince you it’s okay to drink.

Ubud’s Sacred Monkey Forest

he Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, officially known as ‘Mandala Wisata Wenara Wana,’ occupies 11hectares of lush, protected grounds at the lower end of Monkey Forest Road in the village of Padangtegal, just a short walk from the centre of Ubud. Being one of the town’s main tourist attractions, it is almost impossible to miss. True to its name, the sanctuary is home to four troupes of long-tailed Balinese Macaques – about 600 monkeys in total – occupying different areas of the park. This is one of several macaque-inhabited forests in Bali, and the best known due to its communitybased management, location and ease of access. This important cultural and spiritual site welcomes upwards of 10,000 visitors each month. The monkeys can be very mischievous, but they are fascinating to observe, especially with their young. Follow the paved pathways through the forest and be sure to conceal your cameras, jewellery, keys, sunglasses or any other shiny object, for the mischievous and fearless macaques will snatch them and run off in a flash. You’ll see ladies selling bananas at the entrance and the monkey are always open to handouts of food from visitors but, unless you wish to be pounced upon, it’s best not to feed them. It is, however, important to treat the monkeys with respect as this forest is their home and you are a guest in it. This is why you should remain on the paved paths as the monkeys may become aggressive if you invade their private areas. It is also of great importance that you treat the trees, the plants and other animals and structures within the forest with great respect. In addition to the monkeys, you will find three temples here, dating from around the 14th century.

diet and breeding habits. Also, despite its small size, the forest has around 115 different species of trees, some of cultural and spiritual significance, such as the majegan – which is used exclusively for the building of shrines, and the berigin, the leaves of which are used in cremation ceremonies. Ubud Monkey Forest has local guides and staff ready to assist you during your visit. If the monkeys steal your hat or your sunglasses, ask the Wenara Wana staff (identified by their green uniforms) for assistance. The guides are also a great source of information about the cultural and historical significance of the sites and temples within the sanctuary grounds. The admission fees are a nominal Rp 10,000 – 20,000. Pay for a one-time ticket, stay for as long as you wish, and enjoy the beauty and magic of this place. Open daily from 8.30 am - 6 pm

The largest is the important Pura Dalem Agung (Great temple of the Dead), with its ornately-carved gate located at the highest point of the forest. A long flight of steps and a bridge over a river leads to the Holy Bathing Temple, while the third temple, the Pura Prajapati funeral or cremation temple is situated next to one of two graveyards in the forest. The Monkey Forest is owned by the village of Padang Tegal. Village members serve on the governing council, managing the forest and as well as a conservation effort, while also serving to maintain its sacred integrity and promoting it as a destination for visitors. Recent years have seen research and studies carried out on the monkeys’ health, diet and

The Herons Of Petulu

very day in the late afternoon, a remarkable, natural phenomenon occurs in the tiny village of Petulu (5km north of Ubud), as thousands of white herons fly in to roost for the night. The huge flocks of birds arrive in a steady throng, filling the sky, flying in formation, wheeling, drifting, sailing and finally landing in the tall palms and old bunut (fig) trees, where they squabble over prime perches, turning the tree tops white like snow. Village tradition dictates that the herons, which are considered sacred, may not be disturbed while they roost. Visitors can sit at a simple viewing platform beside the ricefields and drink cold Bintang beers or soft drinks while they watch the roosting activities. Such a predictable gathering of these large and beautiful birds is a spectacle not to be missed.

Three species of herons roost at Petulu: the Little Egrets, the Cattle Egrets and the Javan Pond Herons. They are known collectively by the local people as ‘Kokokan’ – and their numbers have been estimated to total up to 20,000. The nesting period is usually around October and November and there is a certain order in how these three species build their nests in the trees, with the largest birds at the top and the smallest at the bottom. The villagers of Petulu believe that the herons are manifestations of the souls of the Balinese who were killed – and buried without due rites – during the anticommunist massacre in Indonesia in 1965/66. In Bali alone, 100,000 people were killed within two weeks. After the atrocities, the surviving residents of Petulu held an elaborate cleansing ceremony in the village as a remembrance for the murdered, and to safeguard the survivors, petitioning for protection and blessings. Less than one month after the ceremony the herons mysteriously arrived in the village for the first time in history, they had never been seen before in Petulu.

The villagers considered them as a blessing from God and then held a ceremony of welcome for the birds. During the ceremony, the priest fell into a trance and learned that the herons were there to guard and protect the village and the crops from pests, disease and negative events. The villagers

of Petulu still pay homage to the birds twice a year by holding a special ceremony for them in which they express their gratitude for being trusted as the place that the birds have chosen to live and lay their eggs.

The villagers say that since the arrival of the herons, the village has enjoyed prosperity and has become a tourist attraction. There is a post with a ‘Donations Box’ at the entrance to the village for visitors to contribute to its further prosperity.

Getting there: From the traffic lights at the statue in north Peliatan, continue north on the main road towards Tegallalang and Tampaksiring. After 4km, look out for the sign on the left to Petulu. The birds arrive home between 5pm and sunset. The birds arrive home between 5pm and

sunset.

TEGALLALANG - CEKING RICEFIELD

he wood carving village of Tegallalang, meaning grass fields, is very much a tourist trap, but it is worth braving the hordes of trinket peddlers to view the stunning sculptured rice terraces here. If you are heading north, look for the picture postcard view across the valley on your right-hand side. The location is cool and breezy with lots of small viewing areas where you can stop for refreshments while you take photos. Painters also love this place. A winding river valley is carved into steep embankments, and the long-stemmed ‘padi Bali’ (indigenous Balinese rice) is grown here. Workshops and simple wholesale outlets line the road for 5km, selling all sorts of wooden handicrafts including carved mythical lions, horses, human figures, dogs, dragons, vases, frogs, kangaroos, cats, ornate totems, panels, doors, windows, tables and the many brilliant forms of creativity – extending even to large-scale dinosaurs, and some magnificent Garuda statues.

N Menjangan isl. Pemuteran

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ACTIVITIES and PLEASURE

Shopping IN UBUD

bud is great for shopping, but knowing where to start and what to buy is probably the hardest part. You may well choose to browse the town’s modern shops, try on locally manufactured clothes, buy some remarkably cheap DVDs, and stop for a cappuccino in an air-conditioned café. Alternatively, if you’re feeling adventurous, you might wish to visit the stone and wood-carving villages in the hinterland; watch traditional craftsmen at work and then break for an orange Fanta and a nasi goreng in a local warung. You could also plod the never-ending main street of Tegallalang, where you will find candles; painted balsawood cats, flowers and frogs; batik lampshades; wrought iron photo-frames; banana-leaf boxes and bamboo wind-chimes galore, at half the price you’d pay elsewhere.

At Ubud’s market, you can purchase paintings, silk scarves, bags, handmade soft toys, woven baskets and hats, statues, quilted bedcovers, and many other hand-crafted goods, made in the neighbouring villages of Pengosekan, Tegallalang, Payangan and Peliatan. Likewise, at the huge Sukawati Art Market, you will also find handicrafts and traditional handmade products. If you visit Celuk, you will find a three-kilometre stretch lined with silver jewellery outlets. These workshops are always willing to fulfil special orders and will work to any design. Despite the fixed prices,

bargaining is essential. Silver pieces are generally weighed and sold by the gram. Batubulan is the place to purchase stone carvings, while Mas is the place to buy woodcarvings. Most of the glass-fronted shops sell their merchandise at a fixed price, but there is no harm in asking for a discount, especially if you buy more than one item. In the market, street stalls and small shops, where no price is indicated, you are expected to haggle. There is some speculation as to whether or not all of the designer goodies sold in the Armani, Versace, Ralph, Giordano and D&G outlets are the genuine article, but price is usually the best guideline. A high percentage of designer-wear is produced in Indonesia, so if a pair of jeans, for example, appears to be remarkably inexpensive, it is most probably part of the overstock or rejects of a local garment factory contracted to one of these international fashion houses. Very low-priced music CDs, DVDs, computer software and electronic games are most definitely copies, you may get the occasional dud, but it’s worth the risk when you bear in mind that they retail at a fraction of what you’d pay back home. If you are looking to purchase paintings, Ubud is the place to conduct your search. Classic, contemporary and abstract artwork, fine art, folk art and decorative wall panels, can all be found in the town’s numerous galleries and art shops. If it speaks to you – buy it. Meet the artist – the person who knows his artwork better than anybody else. Commission a painting. Prices may not be negotiable in the fine art galleries, but for commercial artwork figures are always “open to discussion.” Happy Shopping!

Ubud Accommodation

here is a wide choice of accommodation in the Ubud area, ranging from ultra luxury resorts to small local hotels with beautiful pools, gorgeous tropical gardens, family temples and romantic rooms; from bed & breakfast accommodation with Balinese artists to humble homestays and losmen (guesthouses) where you lodge with a local family. In fact, you can even stay in a guestroom in the sumptuous courtyard of the Royal Palace, which is where Ubud’s long tradition of homestays all began. Ubud is famous for its ‘Bali Style’ accommodation, offering a mixture of Western amenities, Balinese architecture, understated open-air design and harmonious aesthetics. The awe-inspiring Sayan Ridge has long been the dramatic location of many unique and splendid residences. This is where, in the 1930s, the American composer Colin McPhee, was inspired to build his home, later engagingly described in his book, ‘A House in Bali’. Numerous other artists and entrepreneurs have since followed suit and the area is now renowned for the world-class architecture of its luxurious hotels and exclusive hideaways, featuring top-notch services and facilities. Apart from international brands such as Kupu Kupu Barong, Four Seasons at Sayan, there are also high-quality local brands including Alila Ubud, plus many boutique properties. The larger hotels often offer a broad choice of accommodation, from standard rooms to pricier upmarket suites and private pool villa accommodation. Advance reservations are recommended during the peak July–September and Christmas–New Year periods. Almost all hotels (but not all losmen) add a 21 percent government tax and service charge to your bill. Some smaller ones just add the 11 percent tax. Often, better prices and package rates are available

on hotel websites. If you call directly, the unwritten rule is that you can negotiate prices, especially during the low season. There is generally only a very small difference, or none, between rates for single or double occupancy. If the impersonality of a large hotel does not appeal, opt for a stay at a private villa. Many foreigners and Indonesians have built luxury homes in Ubud, which they rent out to visitors on a daily or weekly basis. Every private villa has a swimming pool and the majority accommodate between two and ten guests and come with every conceivable comfort, including kitchen and dining facilities plus a full complement of staff from housekeepers and cooks to drivers, gardeners, pool attendants and security guards. Stay in a villa in Ubud and you will experience genuine Balinese hospitality, luxury, privacy, superb services and facilities, and very often a privileged insight into the Balinese culture, within some stunningly beautiful locations such as rice fields or jungle, bordered by river – perhaps – or with a mountain view.

Eating Out

ew restaurants, cafes and eateries are popping up in Ubud like mushrooms in the rainy season with hundreds of different dining venues. There is an enormous variety of food available and endless dining possibilities, and you won’t have to go far to find it as Ubud caters for every taste, from street-food served out of boxes balanced on bicycles and prepared at the roadside, to gourmet cuisine found in world-class restaurants. Food stalls and tiny street-side restaurants are known as ‘Warung’ or ‘Rumah Makan’ (literally ‘eating house’) and much of the Indonesian cuisine has been influenced by the early Chinese, Indian, Arabic and Dutch traders and settlers. Padang food from the island of Sumatra is to be found in the ‘Rumah Makan Padang’, eating-houses with glass-fronted cabinets in the windows, piled high with cold vegetables, meats and fish, and served with rice, curried sauces and fiery chilli sambal. Customers choose a selection of dishes to make up a composite meal. International restaurants can also be found in abundance in Ubud, and the range of style, setting, ambience and, of course, cuisine is huge, with often extensive menus. Up-market buildings or romantic, open-air Balinese pavilions serve fabulous food from Australia, Europe, The Mediterranean, Italy, France, Holland, Mexico, Asia, India, China, Japan, Thailand, Bali, and the Indonesian archipelago… you name it! Other restaurants introduce further dimensions of flavour by specialising in seafood, comfort food, vegetarian and vegan cuisine, or a touch of fusion. Five-star resorts boast magnificent restaurants and top international chefs whose luscious creations not only feature premium imported ingredients, but also the high quality, fresh, and organic produce of this fertile little island. Fine wines from around the

world are readily available, albeit rather expensive, and many of the restaurants have their own bakeries on the premises, serving some delicious breads, pastries and gateaux. The exciting news for epicures is that with so much competition, standards are high, the choice is wide-ranging and there is something to suit absolutely everybody’s pocket. Please note: most prices in restaurants are ++, this means that 11 percent government tax and between 5 and 10 percent service charge is added. If there is no service charge, a tip is appreciated but not necessarily expected. As you walk through the doors of some of these eateries, you may be excused for believing that you have been transported from the tropical island of Bali to – for example – a Mediterranean island on the other side of the world. Many restaurants offer alfresco dining in prestigious locations overlooking the rice fields or a steep-sided river gorge. Others are situated on busy streets but they invite you to escape from the noise and fumes of the traffic, the mosquitoes, the elements and, perhaps, the buzz and atmosphere of Ubud, to bring you a truly exceptional experience, in absolute comfort, without any distractions that might blight your pleasure. Expect chic décor, and constantly evolving, sophisticated menus. The testimony is in the tasting…

UBUD CULTURE DANCE PERFORMANCES

S M T W T 54

SUNDAY Legong of Mahabrata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Legong Dance Janger Dance Jegog (bamboo gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance

Ubud palace-open stage Padang tegal kaja-open stage Ubud main road-Oka Kartini Arma-open stage Ubud water palace-open stage Bentuyung village Batukaru temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

MONDAY Legong Dance Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Wayang Wong Women's Performance

Ubud palace-open stage Wantilan Padang Tegal kelod Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Arma-open stage Bale banjar Ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

TUESDAY Ramayana Ballet Kecak Fire & Trance dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Legong Dance Trance Dance

Ubud palace-open stage Pura Taman Sari-Padang Tegal kelod Kertha accom-monkey forest strait Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Bale banjar Ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

WEDNESDAY Legong & Barong Dance Mask Dance (topeng jimat) Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Jegog (bamboo gamelan)

Ubud palace-open stage Arma-open stagr Ubud main road-Oka Kartini Yamasari stage-Peliatan open stage Padang tegal kaja-open stage Pura dalem Ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

THURSDAY Kecak (monkey chant dance) Legong Dance Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong Dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet)

Puri agung Peliatan Jaba pura Kutuh village Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Pura taman sari-Padang tegal kelod Bale banjar Ubud kelod Pondok bambu-monkey forest strait

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

FRIDAY Barong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Jegog (bamboo gamelan) Barong & Keris Dance

Ubud palace-open stage Balerung stage Peliatan Pura Padang Kerta-Padang Tegal kelod Ubud main road-Oka Kartini Bentuyung village Arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

SATURDAY Legong Dance Legong Dance Frog Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance The Magic of Jegog

Ubud palace-open stage Ubud water palace Bale banjar Ubud kelod Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Pura dalem Taman kaje-open stage Arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

Pure desa Batuan-0pen stage

7.00 pm

Every 1st and 15th: Gambuh Dance

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Ubud Spas

ince the late 1990s, spas in Ubud have sprouted, grown and blossomed like lotus flowers. Something that was once the domain of the rich, the privileged and the famous has, at last, become accessible to everyone. Weariness and tension caused by hectic work schedules and daily chores that continue to demand an increasing amount of our time and energy, can affect the mind, body, and soul. More and more people are discovering that far from being a mere luxury, opportunities to enjoy a soothing yet regenerating experience are becoming progressively more essential, but somewhat more elusive, in our busy lives today. Spas and spa retreats provide us with the atmosphere and the facilities in which to re-balance, and release our pent-up stress, as well as the holistic concept of healing and nurturing both the inner and outer self. Healing therapies, spiritual cleansing, massage and beauty rituals are all an integral part of everyday communal life in Bali, where people have realised the importance of taking time for themselves and paying respect to their bodies. Ancient Balinese remedies were recorded in Sanskrit on pages of lontar palm leaf and passed down through generations of medicine men, yet the traditions associated with health and rejuvenation are secrets whose origins have been lost in time. In addition to traditional Balinese treatments and massage, therapies may include Ayurvedics, hot stone

massage, Thai massage, Reiki and barefoot Shiatsu, while facilities may include saunas and medicated steam rooms. Ubud’s spas are a feast for the senses. These timeless, natural havens of serenity are dedicated to the pampering of the body, restoring inner harmony, and replenishing and enlivening the jaded spirit. It is here that the very best ingredients of both Eastern and Western health techniques are gently blended with sweet aromas, mellow sounds and the flourishing greenery of tropical gardens. The architecture and interior décor of Ubud’s day spas and spa retreats ranges from Zen-inspired simplicity to eclectic opulence. Others are romantic, rustic and traditional, featuring antique doors, hand-carved furnishings and whimsical ornaments. Fabrics may be natural loose-woven cottons in fresh tones of ivory and ecru, or rich luxuriant silks. Products and aromatic oils are stored in recycled glass bottles and jars with cork stoppers or, perhaps, ornate ceramic pots with silver lids. Water is always a key element in Balinese spas – not surprisingly, as it is bountifully provided by the rains and the sea, ritualised by the Hindus in the form of holy water, and drunk by the gods for immortality. Open-air bathrooms and pavilions house outdoor showers; oversized sunken bathtubs brim with rose petals; tranquil lotus ponds are garnished with moss-encrusted statues, and cascading fountains are the backdrops of exotic blooms. The sense of smell is embraced by a seductive layering of scents emanating from essential oils, spicy smouldering incense, aromatic candles and fragrant flowers. Accompanied by a background melody of enigmatic music, birdsong and trickling water, guests are massaged and eased into a higher dimension of lingering bliss.

Yoga in Ubud

veryone needs to take time away from daily routines and outer demands, and everyone needs equilibrium of mind, body and soul. Whether you happen to be a hard-core ‘Yogaphile’ or a traveller on a voyage of self-discovery, you will find that the peaceful surroundings of Ubud are perfect for the practice of yoga. Although yoga is best known as a type of exercise system that stretches and strengthens the body through various poses, or ‘asanas’, it actually goes far beyond a mere exercise routine. In fact, yoga is a spiritual science of self-realisation; an ancient Indian ‘body of knowledge’ that dates back more than 5000 years. The word yoga comes from the Sanskrit ‘Yuj’, meaning to unite; the purpose is to unite the body with the mind, and the mind with the soul. The methods, therefore, encompass the entire field of human existence – the physical, the emotional, the mental and the spiritual – through ethical disciplines, physical postures, breath control and meditation. There are many different schools of yoga, all of which have their own unique practices and philosophies. The regular practice of asanas and breathing exercises will make the body strong, supple and healthy. It will improve circulation, stimulate the inner organs, glands and nerves, and open the body in preparation for meditation, deep relaxation and a meditative perspective on life. This in turn leads to greater energy, better concentration, and a happier, more fulfilling existence. Many common physical ailments can also be improved through the practice of yoga.

Each of the asanas has specific physical benefits; each is held for a period of time and synchronised with breath control practices, known as pranayama. Generally, a yoga session begins with gentle asanas and works up to the more vigorous or challenging postures. The poses can be performed quickly in succession, creating heat in the body through movement, or more slowly to increase stamina while perfecting the posture alignment. A full yoga session should exercise every part of the body and should also include relaxation. Typically, a 60 or 90-minute yoga class will focus on the physical benefits of yoga, while a yoga retreat may delve more into the spiritual side. The meditative practice of yoga can realise or awaken an individual’s spiritual essence, ultimately leading to a wordless and timeless experience of inner peace. Yoga retreats offer the opportunity to develop or deepen practice with the help of Visiting Masters; teaching methods are generally exacting and dynamic without being overchallenging. The practice of yoga can therefore be enjoyed by everyone, as each individual will work to his or her own comfortable level without being pushed beyond personal limitations. If you are looking for regular, ongoing yoga practice in the Ubud area, there are a number of hotels, spas and yoga centres offering daily or weekly classes, which are open to everyone. Check out www.theyogabarn.com for schedules.

Yoga teachers make their art accessible to all ages and body types by adapting techniques to individual needs. The emphasis is to help the students to find a personal relationship with their yoga practice, and the result is a joyous and free-flowing ritual. Anyone can practice yoga; it is never too late or too early in life to take it up, and the holistic outlook is one of the most compelling reasons to begin.

TYPES OF YOGA n Hatha: Hatha originated in India in the 15th century. This type of yoga is slow-paced, gentle, and focused on breathing and meditation. It is ideal for beginners and people wanting to learn the basics of yoga. n Vinyasa: Similar to Ashtanga and Hatha, Vinyasa centralises poses around the sun salutation while maintaining a synchronised breath matched to 12 poses. Friendly to beginners and advanced yogis, Vinyasa will strengthen your core and create connection between movement and breath. n Ashtanga: Considered a form of power yoga, Ashtanga is fast-paced and intense with lunges and push-ups. The breathing technique in Ashtanga is designed to centre the mind and control breath flow throughout the body while enhancing flexibility and strength. designed to centre the mind and control breath flow throughout the body while enhancing flexibility and strength. n Iyengar: Iyengar covers all eight aspects of Ashtanga yoga and focuses on bodily alignment. Different props like straps, blankets, and blocks are used to assist in strengthening the body. Standing poses are emphasized, and are often held for long periods of time.

Bikram: Also known as hot yoga, Bikram is practiced in a 95 to 100 degree room.

It’s typically a series of 26 poses that allows for a loosening of tight muscles and sweating. The heat aids in flexibility and detoxification. n Yin Yoga: Yin Yoga is used to counter high-energy sports

that stretch and stress the body. By working micro facia and connective tissues in and around the major joints, the practice creates space, unlocks tightness, and allows nutrients to regenerate the system. All of the postures are passivelyheld floor postures that primarily work the hips and lower back.

WHERE TO PRACTICE YOGA IN UBUD n The Yoga Barn Jl Raya Pengosekan, Ubud | +62 361 971236 www.theyogabarn.com n Radiantly Alive Yoga Jl Jembawan No. 3, Padangtegal, Ubud |+62 361 978055 www.radiantlyalive.com n Taksu Yoga & Movement Arts Jl Goutama Selatan, Ubud | +62 361 971490 & 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com n Intuitive Flow Jl Raya Tjampuhan, Penestanan Kaja, Ubud | +62 361 977824 www.intuitiveflow.com n Balispirit Yoga Studio and Cafe Jl Hanoman, No. 44, Ubud | +62 361 970992 www.balispirit.com n Escape the World Jl Suweta Br. Sambahan, Ubud | +62 361 972686 www.oneworldretreats.com/ubud-bali-yoga-retreat-iyanyaspriyana.php n Shriman Yoga Bungalows Jl Subak Sok Wayah | +62 822 3665 1836 www.shrimanyogabungalows.com n Yin Yoga +62 812 46178431 | ferencnyiro@yahoocom

Sports and Adventure

ali presents a wealth of outdoor activities for all ages, from sea sports to golf, horse-riding and bird watching. There are also a number of specialist adventure tour companies, offering exciting excursions such river rafting, mountain cycling, jungle trekking and 4-wheel-drive expeditions. Most companies provide a doorto-door pick-up and drop-off service.

Bali Hash House Harriers

There are several Hash House Harriers running clubs in Bali. The beautiful routes cover terraced rice fields and deep tropical jungle ravines. There is generally a short run of 45–60 minutes, and a long run of 60–90 minutes. CANYON TUBING

The Bali Canyon Tubing experience is as close to nature as you can get! Hidden between Bali’s mountains is a fast-flowing river with crystal clear water, which was previously inaccessible, but is now ready to be explored – by tube. In some places, the small-but-active Siap River makes it too difficult to remain on your tube, so here the company has created Flying Fox constructions, which will enable you to actually fly through the canyon. CANYONING (CANYONEERING)

Bali’s vast river system flows through deep canyon gorges. Canyoning, led by ICO Pro qualified instructors, is all about following a river system downstream while negotiating boulders, waterfalls and natural slides by means of trekking, caving,

scrambling, climbing, abseiling, jumping, sliding, and swimming. Bali’s established canyoning routes are near Bedugul and Kintamani. The easiest trip takes about 1.5 hours, and the more advanced routes can take 3-4 hours to complete, with waterfall abseils of about 50 metres Diving

Bali is the ideal location for learning to dive or diving for pleasure among some of the world’s finest tropical reefs. The water is warm and the marine life is abundant. Bali’s reputable dive schools and operators offer facilities, equipment and tuition for every PADI course from beginners’ discovery dives to the highest recreational level. Eco Tours

Eco tours are an opportunity to experience Bali “by and for the people”. Local guides will give you a unique insight into their world of village life. Golf

The golfing options in Bali are quite outstanding and golfers come from all over the world to play on the island’s top class, championship golf courses, which are set in contrasting coastal and mountain locations. These magnificent playgrounds are all open to non-members. Horse Riding

There are plenty of several stables offering riding adventures through rice fields, villages, monsoon forest, and along the beach. All treks are accompanied by personal guides and lessons can be arranged. Most stables provide a good selection of well-trained horses with varying temperaments, energies and sizes to suit all ages and levels of experience.

Jungle Trekking & Mountain Climbing

Experienced guides will take visitors on anything from gentle hikes through rice fields, jungle, rainforests and national parkland, to challenging mountain treks in the dry season Mountain Cycling

winds blow offshore and the full force of the solid southern ocean swells hit the reefs around Kuta, Nusa Dua, and the Bukit Peninsula. Meanwhile, for novices and surfers of intermediate ability, there are plenty of mellow beachbreaks and a good choice of wellmanaged surf schools.

Starting around 1100 metres above sea level, each mountain cycling tour is an exhilarating descent through farms, hamlets and lush valleys, past ancient temples and beautiful rice fields. Rafting

White water rafting is an action-packed journey through class II and III rapids, against an awesome backdrop of pristine rainforest, towering gorges, emerald rice terraces and dramatic waterfalls on the Ayung, Telaga Waja and Unda Rivers. Snorkelling

The waters all around the island offer some excellent opportunities for snorkelling, suitable for all levels including beginners. Explore a shipwreck in Tulamben; discover pristine corals and maybe a manta ray at Nusa Penida, some beautiful reefs and colourful fish at Padang Bai, and the gigantic gorgonian sea fans at Menjangan National Marine Park. Sea Cruises

There are numerous ocean cruise options departing from Benoa Harbour, including sunset cruises, day trips, and luxury yacht cruises exploring the neighbouring islands. If you appreciate privacy on the seas, we can arrange for you to charter an elegant catamaran, complete with snorkelling, scuba and fishing gear. Surfing

Bali is renowned as one of the great surfing meccas of the world, offering over 20 top-quality breaks. The peak surf season is April through October when the southeast trade

Bali Arts AND Crafts

rt is omnipresent in Bali. Inseparable from the cultural and spiritual practice of the communities, it plays an intense role in daily life, and can be seen everywhere from elaborately-carved doors, stone statues and wood sculptures, to fabulous paintings, masks, textiles, jewellery, and beautifully-crafted offerings to the gods. It is in the symbolically decorative adornment of palaces and temples, however, where we find the roots of Balinese art. For centuries, artists, artisans and craftsmen in Bali worked under the patronage of the priests and the ruling classes, decorating the royal courts with carved wooden panels, silken wall hangings and stone sculptures. Extraordinary statues, bas relief, gilded parasols and highly ornate doorways and pillars continue to grace the island's myriad temples, where stone carved demons and mythical symbols provide protection from evil spirits. These artists of old never signed their work; paintings were produced collaboratively and therefore anonymously, and the men usually lived close together in artists' villages. Generally they had little room for personal expression as their rendering of figures and ornamentations had to follow strictly prescribed religious rules and aesthetic guidelines. At that time, Balinese traditional paintings were restricted to what is now known as the Kamasan or Wayang style - two-dimensional visual narratives taken from Hindu mythology and drawn on cloth or bark paper with the colouring limited to natural dyes. Things began to change, however, with the arrival of avant-garde foreign artists in the 1920s and 30s, such as Walter Spies, Rudolf Bonnet, Arie Smit and AdrienJean Le Mayeur who acted as agents of change by encouraging individual freedom of expression, while

promoting departure from the confining traditions by providing painting media and introducing western painting concepts, such as perspective techniques, picture and colour composition and human anatomy. The result was an explosion of highly individualist artwork that led to the birth of the modern traditional style of Balinese painting. The Ubud painters particularly embraced this liberating revolution with courage and enthusiasm. Likewise, Balinese woodcarving underwent a similar stylistic evolution during the 1930s. Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet encouraged woodcarvers to explore sleek new styles and carving techniques while adopting simple, naĂŻve themes of daily life. Comprised of fine hardwood, which was sanded and finished without paint, the woodcarvings became fluid and elongated. The artisans polished their work to a fine sheen so that each piece was smooth and tactile. Ida Bagus Nyana and Cokot were the two most famous woodcarvers from this era, and their productive careers took them into the 1960s and 70s. Most of today's Balinese sculpture is inspired by their works. A second movement of painters, born of European influence, occurred in the early 60s, with the arrival of Arie Smit to the village of Penestanan. He encouraged the artists in this area to explore and experiment with vivid colours and more simple abstract forms. The paintings in this style are much more expressionist, with little attention to detail or perspective.

BALI ARTS and FESTIVALS If you wish to buy artwork here, you will find it to be incredibly accessible and remarkably inexpensive, but if you are a newcomer to the art world, and feel intimidated about making a purchase, it is best to go into the process armed with some knowledge, and then start looking for a piece within your budget. A good idea is to first learn a little bit about Bali's classical artwork by visiting some of Ubud's museums of art. The famous Pita Maha style of painting depicts human figures and scenes from everyday Balinese life, while other classical works feature wayang figures, rich floral designs and flame-and-mountain motifs. When you are ready to buy, you will find that Ubud - Bali's artistic hub - is the most obvious place to conduct your search. Classic, contemporary and abstract paintings, fine art, folk art, framed photographs and decorative wall panels can all be found in the Town's numerous galleries, studios, art shops and markets.

Buy from up and coming artists Find quality pieces by Bali's art school graduates, or new artists who haven't been featured in an exhibition before and therefore still sell their work for a reasonable price.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T Overspend Stick to your budget so that you don't have regrets. Be scared to ask Galleries can be daunting places but the staff will help you. If you like a piece, find out about it. If you don't know where to start, ask for advice. Be pressured into buying Just because someone gives you the hard sell, it doesn't mean you have to buy. Be swayed by trends or fame The work of an award winning artist or the latest trend in abstract expressionism might be the last thing you want on your wall, so don't feel you have to pursue the idea.

If it speaks to you - buy it! Meet the artist - the person who knows his artwork better than anybody else! Commission a painting! Prices may not be negotiable in the fine art galleries, but for commercial artwork figures are always `open to discussion'.

DO Take your time If you find a piece that you like, put it on hold and go back for another look before buying. Research Browse the galleries and check out some exhibitions to get a feel for your taste. Buy what you like Follow your heart. As long as you are drawn to a painting, and as long as you like it, your money wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be wasted. Remember, you are the one who has to look at it everyday.

Palm

Abstract Painting Art Gallery Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Campuhan Ubud, Bali - Indonesia Telephone: (0361) 979081 | Mobile 081 23 666 158 Email: palmpainting4gallery@yahoo.com

Artpreciation – Art Tourism Introducing Bali’s first specialist guided art tours Artpreciation, a program of Balinese art discovery for small groups that includes lectures by art authorities, visits to galleries and museums, visiting hotels with extensive art collections and access to studios of prominent Balinese artists. Visiting Ubud’s famous ARMA Museum, charismatic founder Agung Rai delights in sharing his knowledge about his collection of Balinese art. Several combinations of the tours are available with full day tours including lunch and transportation. Perfect for art lovers, art collectors, or even the curious wanting direct access and the opportunity to learn deep insights into the unique character and practices of Balinese art. www.artpreciation.co.id |email: artpreciation@phoenix.co.id | tel: +6283870881209

PILAR BATU GALLERY

Presenting fine art quality of painting and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN PENGOSEKAN, UBUD, GIANYAR - BALI PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044 EMAIL: PILARBATUGALLERY@GMAIL.COM | WWW.PILARBATU.COM

Ubud, Bali Festivals 1. Bali Spirit Festival

The BaliSpirit Festival is a vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music. Held near Ubud in March- April each of year, this international, energy-charged event showcases the world’s best in health, yoga, lifestyle, wellbeing, world music, community and social change. In a synergy of global cultural collaboration and nondenominational spiritual practice, the Festival provides unique opportunities to experience 2. Bali Arts Festival

The Bali Arts Festival is an annual fiesta of Balinese and Indonesian artistic traditions and culture. It last for a full month and is held at Bali Arts Centre, Taman Budaya, in Denpasar. The festival showcases daily cultural performances, dance dramas, theatre, traditional and modern music, historical exhibitions, classical palace dances, handicraft exhibitions, garment and jewellery exhibitions, puppet shows, competitions and other related cultural commercial activities, presented by every region in Bali and beyond.

The opening parade takes place in mid-June with a procession of cultural treasures from all the regencies in Bali, starting from Puputan Margarana Square, Niti Mandala, Denpasar. 3. Bali Kite Festival

The Bali Kite Festival is held every year in July when the winds are strong. It takes place at Padanggalak, Sanur, and is actually a seasonal religious festival intended to send a message to the gods for abundant crops and harvests. Traditional giant kites, up to 4 x 10 metres in size, are made and flown competitively by teams from different villages. 4. Nusa Dua Fiesta

The Nusa Dua Fiesta is a culinary and cultural gala week of special events, exhibitions and activities that takes place in October. It incorporates Bali’s finest performing arts, street performers, music, theatre, dance, fashion shows, food bazaars, and the prestigious Culinary Challenge for Professional Chefs. There are also trade exhibitions of handicrafts and products from across Indonesia,

and sporting events with races, games, competitions, a bowling championship and a kids’ carnival. 5. Ubud Village Jazz Festival

The Ubud Village Jazz Festival is held annually in August in the grounds of the magnificent Arma Museum, Ubud, with performances by a range of acclaimed jazz musicians from around the world, including some renowned musicians from Indonesia and others from as far afield as the USA and Europe. Every year has a different theme. 6. Ubud Writers & Readers Festival

The international Ubud Writers & Readers Festival takes place each year in October. Hailed as “One of the six best literary festivals in the world,” the event delivers intellectual and sensory stimulation to the hundreds of writers and readers. Look forward to a packed programme of workshops, discussions, interviews, readings, poetry slams, literary lunches and book launches galore.

7. Sanur Village Festival

Every August, the Sanur Village Festival is a community event presenting a bazaar and food festival, a culinary challenge, creative exhibitions, an environmental care programme, various contests and competitions, art and cultural attractions, music, a fishing tournament, a fashion show, a village cycling tour, a yoga performance, a golf tournament, and various types of environmentally-friendly activities. 8. DENPASAR FESTIVAL

The Denpasar Festival is held every year at the end of December and attracts many thousands of visitors to Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital city. The centre for the event is the Catur Muka (Four Faces) area of the city. The event

is organised by the Denpasar government and it is a showcase highlighting the diversity, richness and creativity of the city. The entertainment includes exhibitions and culinary, floral and agricultural displays. There are stalls, seminars, art and culture, including both the traditional and modern aspects of Balinese life, especially displays of Balinese dance and art. There is always a colourful and exotic parade to finish the festival. 9. Legian Beach Festival

The Legian Beach Festival is held every August along the beach front between Jl Padma and Jl Melasti, Legian. Visitors can enjoy exhibitions, stands selling handcrafts, jewellery, clothing and accessories, and of course a diverse

range of foods. On stage are cultural performances and live music, while the beach area hosts competitions, food carving demonstrations, traditional weaving demonstrations, and exciting activities for children with opportunities for prizes 10. Balinale International Film Festival

This annual festival in October invites film industry professionals, including actors, directors, producers and screenwriters, to expose Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s film locations, talent and stories, while also bringing upcoming young Indonesian filmmakers to world cinema. For film buffs, the festival screens a packed programme of award-winning films and movie premieres.

UBUD, GIANYAR REGENCY by made maryana | taksukuturan@yahoo.co.id | mobile: 081 239 64331

JUNE 2016 June 4, 2016 n “Tumpek Wayang” it is special day for puppeteers, when blessing ceremony is given to shadow puppet playset music instrument etc. for magic all power and proper function. Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Bhatara Ratu Gde, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency June 8, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Melanting Cemenggaon village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency Pura Gaduhan Jagat, Singakerta village, district of Ubud, Gianyar regency n Pura Masceti, Sanding village, district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency June 14, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Dalem Batuyang village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Desa and Pura Pucak, Bedulu village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency June 15, 2016 n Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Samprangan village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency June 25, 2016 n “Saraswati “ holiday, the day devoted to Sanghyang Aji Saraswati, when blessing ceremony is held for holi scriptire, books of art, knowledges and sciences, n

and people pray for wisdon and wits, throughout Bali June 29, 2016 n “Pagerwesi“ holiday, the word literally means Iron Fence people pray to Sanghyang Paramesti Guru (lord of the universe), for strong mental defence in facing wordly temtation, more lively celebrated in north Bali Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Laban Sindu Jiwa, Kedewatan village, Gianyar regency n Pura Payogan Agung, Ketewel village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency JULY 2016 July 9, 2016 n “Tumpek Landep “ day, the day devoted Sanghyang Pasupati (God as the lord of all metal implements), when blessing ceremony is given to heirl room, sacret, weapons, all implements and tool made of metal for proper function and magical power, throughout Bali, speciallt at smiths garages and work shop throughout Bali Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Dalem Tenggaling, Singapadu village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Penataran Agung Penatih, Tulikup village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency n Pura Dalem Pingit, Taro Kaja village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency

July 19, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Penataran Tangkas, Sukawati village, of Gianyar regency. n Pura Puseh Lembeng, Ketewel village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Sanghyang Tegal, Taro kaja village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency AUGUST 2016 August 3, 2016 n Pura Puseh and Pura Desa Guwang village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Pasek Ketewel, Ketewel village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency August 13, 2016 n “Tumpek Pengatag“ day devoted to Ida Sanghyang Widhi Wasa / almighty god as “Sanghyang Sangkara “. Lood of all food plant and vegetarian, when blessing cere moniesare focused at gardens, rice fields and plantation, for good crops and products troghtout Bali Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Puseh and Pura Desa, Batuan village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency August 17, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Ratu Pasek Besakih (The Mother Temple) complex,district of Rendang n Pura Dalem Batur village, district of Kintamani, Bangli regency

CULTURAL EVENT | JUN 2016 - SEP 2016 Pura Pusering Jagat, Pejeng village, district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency August 23, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Dalem Waturenggong, Taro kaja village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency August 24, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Dadya Agung Pasek Sanak Sapta Rsi, Sidan village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency n

SEPTEMBER 2016 September 7, 2016 n “Galungan” holiday celebrated as the commemoration of the victory of “Dharma” (virtue) upon “Adharma” (evil) devited from the mytologi “Mayadenawa” the demon king when involved in war against God Indra’s troops on this day, a tall bamboo pole decorated with coconuts leaved and flowers, fruit, cake etc, stuck on avery house entrance and make a marvelous sight a long the village roads, symbolizing prosperty, throughout Bali September 9, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Luhur, Cemenggaon village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency

September 11, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Dalem Tegalalang, Batubulan village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency September 12, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Merajan Agung, Benawan village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency September 16, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Gunung Kawi, district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency September 17, 2016 “Kuningan” holiday, the day believed as the ascending day of the ancestral holy spirits back to heaven after spending time with their discendants during Galungan celebration throughout Bali n

Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Taman Pule, Mas village, district of Ubud, Gianyar regency n Pura Dalem Tegaljaya, Batubulan village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Dalem Guwang village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Jenengan Majapahit, Cemenggaon village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Dalem Sanding village, district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency n

September 21, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Bukcabe, Mas village, district of Ubud, Gianyar regency n Pura Puseh, Ganggang canggi, Batuan village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Dalem Tarukan, Cemenggaon village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency September 27, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Penataran Agung, Jukutpaku, Singakerta village, district of Ubud, Gianyar regency n Pura Pusering Jagat, Pejeng village, district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency n Pura Gaduh, Blahbatuhvillage, Gianyar regency n Pura Geria Sakti, Tulikup village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency September 28, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n Pura Dalem Dauhuma, Batuan village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Dalem Maspahit, Guwang village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n Pura Desa Sanding village, district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency n Taman Dukuh Kendran village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency

Balinese Dances

alinese art performances are visual, entertaining and exciting, and can be appreciated by adults and children of all ages. Performances take place daily on the open stage at Ubud Palace, and in many of Ubudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surrounding villages, as well as being an integral part of almost every temple festival. There are numerous dance troupes on the island and many different Balinese dance dramas, most of which have evolved from sacred rituals. The dances are often typified by subtle, controlled gestures and a fixed mask-like face with unfocused eyes and closed lips. The dancerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s limbs form precise angles and the head sinks down so far that the neck disappears. At other times, gestures replicate nature, hands flutter like a bird in flight, and limbs follow sudden changes of direction as the performers move in slow horizontal zigzagging circles. The eyes become expressive and beguiling as they flicker and dance, and movements become jerky.

A. Barong Dance

The Barong Dance portrays the eternal fight between good and evil. The players are the Barong Keket, a shaggy lion-like creature; and Rangda, the hideous and evil widow-witch. The mischievous, fun-loving Barong represents everything that is good, while Rangda is the personification of evil incarnate, embodying every imaginable negative and destructive force. B. Frog Dance

The Genggong Frog Dance is a dance-drama telling the story of a frog that marries a princess. The performance starts off with the frog and his followers dancing around the stage in a comic fashion. Later in the story, the frog is exposed as an under-cover prince and the princess falls in love. C. Joged Dance

The Joged Bumbung is an exclusively secular dance, in which a brightly dressed female dancer invites men from the audience to dance with her in the pretence of seduction. The Joged is particularly popular after the harvest or a great religious festival, and the music is created with Bumbung (bamboo) instruments.

D. JEGOG DANCE

The traditional 4-tone gamelan music known as ‘Jegog’, hails from the Jembrana Region of West Bali, and is played on instruments created from the trunks of the enormous bamboo that grows within the same area. Jegog music is very fast, rhythmic and precise; the instruments are played in specific sequences and produce some wonderful sounds, while also being visually artistic. Jegog is also used to accompany dances such as ‘Parti Marga’, ‘Belibis’, ‘Gohpala’, ‘Mekepung’, and ‘Jogedan’. E. Kecak Dance

The spectacular Kecak Dance is performed by a chorus of bare-chested men wearing black and white poleng cloth around the waist and a single red hibiscus flower behind the ear. Sitting in a circle, the actors play the role of both the cappella choir and the props, providing non-stop musical accompaniment in the form of hypnotic vocal chants. F. Legong Dance

The Legong Dance is the most refined of all the temple dances, a quintessential display of Balinese grace and femininity performed by three young girls. There are various forms of this dance, the most common being the Legong Karaton, based on a classic twelfth-century tale from Java about a princess held captive by a wicked king.

G. Topeng Dance

The Topeng Dance, usually reserved for temple festivals and rituals, is a challenging drama, highly demanding of an actor’s talent. A masked play and reminiscent of an opera, the dancer has to imitate the character represented by the mask. The stories are taken from episodes of war and intrigue throughout Balinese History. H. The Ramayana Ballet

The Ramayana Ballet, a Hindu epic and timeless love story, follows Rama and Sita through many trials, tribulations and battles against evil, in their quest for true love. Traditionally it is believed that all who recite or listen to The Ramayana on a regular basis will find increased love, wisdom and strength.

Balinese Dance Classes Are available in Ubud at Pondok Pekak Library & Learning Centre. East Side of football field on Monkey Forest Road, Central Ubud. Open Daily 9am - 9pm. For more information: Tel. 0361 976194, email: pondok@indo.net.id

Tips for First Time Visitors ATTITUDE

Good manners are very important to Indonesian people, and since you will be treated as an honoured guest in this country, it is only right to repay that courtesy by showing respect for the traditions and culture. Never touch somebody’s head unless you become a very close friend, don’t touch people with your left hand and don’t stretch out your feet to the direction of a nearby person. When you’re travelling around if something goes wrong, you will have to accept that there is no such thing as a “disaster”. Maintain your sense of humour. relax and let yourself roll with the punches rather than getting upset. The Indonesian mentality hardly ever shows anger so this will not be understood unless something really heavy is happening. COMMUNICATION

The Indonesian language which is spoken nationally is very easy to learn. Even a few words will be rewarded by much excitement. Although English is widely spoken in the tourism industry, keep your conversation simple, don’t cause confusion by conversing too quickly in your own local slang or in a complicated manner. Avoid misunderstandings by speaking slowly, simply and clearly. ON THE ROAD

The traffic in Bali is ruled by common sense. Give way to everything in front of you, no matter if this is a vehicle you intend to overtake which suddenly turns into your lane or somebody pulling out from a side road. Also give way to anyone pulling into your lane or somebody pulling out from a side road. Also give

way to anything bigger than you Bikes, especially, are in a very weak position. Expect the unexpected – animals crossing, processions crowding the road or invisible holes covered by water. Using the vehicle's horn in Indonesia is a precaution and not meant in an offensive manner. Use it to let people know you’re there, when you’re about to overtake, if they look like they’re going to stray into your path, or if there is any confusing situation developing in front of you. Don’t get angry if other road users don’t drive the way you’re used to in your own country, or if they don’t appear to use any common sense at all. It is a waste of time getting upset, the other person will have no idea what you’re angry about. DRESS CODE

The Balinese, while modestly dressed themselves, are very forgiving when it comes to tourists’ attire. However walking around town in Speedos or a bikini is not really appreciated. When entering temples you are required to wear a sarong and a sash, you’ll see that the temples themselves are similarly attired. If you have to visit a government office, long sleeves, long trousers/skirt and shoes are advisable. Pack light, natural fabrics – and don’t pack too many clothes, as there are plenty of cheap clothing shops all over Bali! CHILDREN

All Balinese people adore children. Your children will be welcome absolutely everywhere. At the beach, especially on the Kuta, Legian, Seminyak coast, keep a good eye on your children when they’re in the water. There are dangerous rips. HEALTH RISKS

Health risks are fairly minimal, although there’s always the risk of Bali Belly - don’t drink the tap water; be careful what you eat. Choose to eat at places that seem busy and popular.

Protect yourself from mosquitoes, especially in the rainy season when there can be dengue fever outbreaks in closely populated areas! Be aware that on islands other than Bali, malaria can be endemic – the mountain country in Lombok for example, so take adequate precautions. VISA - ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

The Indonesian ANTARA news agency recently announced that the government will extend free visa facilities to more countries, including Australia. However we are still waiting for this regulation to be put in place and, until then, travellers from a number of countries will have to pay US$35 for their visas on arrival. Countries that are currently still waiting for their citizens to be entitled to a free 30-day visa-onarrival are: Australia, Brazil, Ukraine, Kenya, Uzbekistan, Bangladesh, Cameroon, Palestine, Honduras, Pakistan, and Mongolia.

MONEY

CURRENCY Indonesian Rupiah. Changing a variety of foreign currencies in tourist areas is no problem, but it can be difficult in out of the way places, so if you’re heading up-country, bring enough rupiah with you. NOTE: because of widespread counterfeiting, banks and moneychangers will only accept certain years and series of US Dollar banknotes. Generally speaking any note issued after 2003 is okay, however this can change. Torn or dirty notes will often be refused. MONEY CHANGERS: When you receive your Rupiah, count it yourself and then do not put it down! You will be better off changing money only at those outlets that specialise in changing money and not at retail shops which offer money change facilities as an extra. ATMs: are now widespread, particularly in the most touristy areas.

If 30 days is not enough, you should get a tourist visa from an Indonesian embassy or consulate before you arrive. Your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond your stay and must have several empty pages. Be prepared to show an onward ticket out of Indonesia. TIME ZONE

Indonesia has three time zones. Bali is GMT+8hrs. CLIMATE

The rainy season is officially October – March, but it varies yearly. There is diving year-round although the best seasons are April & May and September – November. Remember to apply sunscreen. ELECTRICITY

220 volts. Bring a plug adaptor with you.

COMPANY LISTING APOTEK Kimia Farma Jl. Raya Peliatan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972193 Apotik Ubud Farma Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974214 Apotik Merta Sari Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972357 Tjampuhan Farma Jl. Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 2799911

BANKS Bank OCBC NISP - Ubud Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972701 Bank Permata Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978048 Bank Tabungan Negara (Persero) Jl. Raya Jembawan, 1, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975764 Bank Danamon Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975405 Bank Nusantara Parahyangan Jl. Raya Ubud, 177, Ubud Phone: +62 361 980422 Bank BCA Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud 10, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975957 Bank Pembangunan Daerah Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 977509

BARS

CERAMICS

Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: +62 361 4792888 FOLK Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9080888 Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970928 No Mas Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9080800 The Melting Pot Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 081 57689113

Sari Api Ceramic Studio Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62361 971056 Phone: +62 081 2466 0919 Setia Ceramic Studio Jl. Raya Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81 337809006

CONSULATES Australia Jl. Tantular No. 32 Renon, Denpasar Phone: +62 361 2100 Brazil Jl. Raya Legian No. 186 Kuta, Badung Phone: +62 361 757775 Czech Republic Jl. Pengembak No. 17 Sanur, Denpasar Phone: +62 361 286465 Denmark & Norway Mimpi Resort, Kawasan Bukit Permai Phone: +62 361 701070 French Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8 Sanur, Denpasar Phone: +62 361 285485 Germany Jl. Pantai Karang No. 17 Sanur, Denpasar Phone: +62 361 288535 United Kingdom Jl. Tirtanadi No. 20 Sanur, Denpasar Phone: +62 361 270601 USA Jl. Hayam Wuruk No.188 Denpasar Phone: +62 361 233605 Switzerland Jl. Patih Jelantik, Istana Kuta Galleria Phone: +62 361 751735

A-Z OF UBUD Hungary Jl. ByPass Ngurah Rai No. 219 Sanur Phone: +62 361 287701 Italy Jl. ByPass Ngurah Rai Jimbaran Phone: +62 361 701005 Japan Jl. Raya Puputan No.170 Renon Phone: +62 361 227628 Mexico Jl. Prof. Moh Yamin No.1A Renon Phone: +62 361 223266 Netherlands Jl. Raya Kuta No.127 Kuta, Badung Phone: +62 361 761520 Spain /Portugal Jl. Patih Jelantik, Istana Kuta Galleria Phone: +62 361 769286

EMERGENCY Prima Medika Clinic Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: +62 082 3831 5697 Toya Clinic Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 082 3831 5697 Ubud Clinic Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 082 3831 5697

FURNITURE Adhiguna Furniture Jl. Raya Mas, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8759792, 7882921 DEKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Studio Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 973361

GALLERY

JEWELRY

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978197 Palm Gallery Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 979081 Tanah Tho Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh, Ubud Phone: +62 361 981482

Studio Perak Jl. Raya Hanoman, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974244 Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 2365 1809 Toko Bead Jl. Raya Hanoman, Ubud Phone: +62 361 4792645 YIN Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970718 Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8468510 Jl. Raya Hanoman, Ubud Phone: +62 85 100801879

HOTEL Bisma Eight Hotel Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: +62 361 4792888 Sri Ratih Cottages Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975638 Sens Hotel & Spa Jl. Sukma, Banjar Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8493326 Puri Gangga Banjar Sebatu, Tegallalang Phone: +62 361 902222 Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bojog, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971307

INTERNET Hubud Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978073 Outpost Jl. Raya Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9080584

MUSEUMS ARMA (Agung Rai Museum of Art) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974228 Antonio Blanco Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975779

NIGHT LIFE Bunute Bar Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972177 CP Lounge Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978954 Jazz Cafe Jl. Raya Sukma 2, Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976594 XL Shisha Lounge Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975751

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Raya Sukma, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970980 Sujaya Group Jl. Raya Penestanan, Ubud Phone: +62 813 3933 9313

RESTAURANTS Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81 339339928 Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970095 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976466 Bali Star Coffee Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 62 89621071116

Caramel Patisserie & Cafe Jl. Raya Hanoman No. 4B, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970847 CP LOUNGE Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978954 DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970095 Down To Earth Jl. Raya Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: +62 36117835545 Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971056 Kailasha Restaurant Banjar Sebatu Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: +62 361 902222 Kopi Coffee Jl. Karna No. 14, Ubud Phone: +62 89 621071116 La Pacha Mama Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9080225

SPAS Angga Sarira Spa Jl. Nyuh Bojog, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972956 Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976739 Fresh Spa & Beauty Salon Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8493677

KUSH Ayurvedic Yoga Barn - Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971236 Kayma Spa Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 85 100620017 Sang Spa1 Reborn Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 973236 Sang Spa 2 Jl. Raya Jembawan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9080015 Sang Spa 3 Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9080245 Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975770 Sri Ratih Spa Jl. Tjampuhan 1, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975638

SHOPPING ATAPA Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 85 103031058 Nirmala - Work On Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;shirt Jl. Raya Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7475404 Rainbow Spirit Jl. Raya Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: +62 85 100126053 SISI+NANAN Jl. Raya Hanoman, Ubud Phone: +62 85 100765896 Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning No. 2, Ubud Phone: +62 85 100765896

SPORTS

WARUNGS

YOGA

Bali Adventure Rafting Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: +62 877 60142434 BaliGoBike Banjar Laplapan, Ubud Phone: +62 813 3726917 Bali Payung Rafting Jl. Raya Payangan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7868888 Greenbike Cycling Tour Banjar Junjungan, Ubud Phone: +62 851 01699692 Ubud Adventure Centre Jl. Raya Kdedewatan II, Ubud Phone: +62 361 898977

De’ waRung Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971465 Gedong Sisi Warung Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 977276 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan Kelod, Ubud Phone: +62 85 857431875 Warung Biah Biah Jl. Raya Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978249 Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9080258 Warung Kacu Jl. Dewi Sita No.17, Ubud Phone: +62 361 977330 Warung Siam-Thai Cooking Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81 239655905

Yoga Barn Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971236 Intuitive Flow Jl. Raya Penestanan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 977824 Ubud Yoga House Jl. Ume Sok Wayah, Ubud Phone: +62 82 144181058

TOURS Bali’s Top Drivers Tours Jl. Pratu Made Rambug, Ubud Phone: +62 821 47179000 Ubud Unique Tour Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 819 9942821

USEFULL INFO Ari Canti Hospital Jl. Raya Mas, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974537 Police Ubud Sector Jl. Raya Andong, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975316 Ubud Tourist Information Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 973285

WINES

ZOO Bali Zoo Jl. Raya Singapadu, Gianyar Phone: +62 361 294357 Bali Bird Park Jl. Singapadu, Batubulan, Gianyar Phone: +62 361 299352 Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra Phone: +62 361 751300 Elephant Safari Park Jl. Elephant Park Taro, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8988888

DIVINE wine and cocktail bar Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970095 Hatten Wines Komplek Pertokoan Dewa Ruci Jl. ByPass Ngurah Rai, Kuta Phone: +62 361 767422 Plaga Wine Jl. Sunset Road 166, Kuta Phone: +62 361 756781, 8477238

TOURS

TOURING BALI

lthough it is possible to get around Bali in a single day, this is not conducive to having the best possible experience; it’s far better to explore the area you are in rather than to make long treks across the island. Half-day outings are best accomplished by starting early, which leaves the rest of the day free for relaxing. Chartering a car or minivan with driver can be done by the half-day or the full-day. Rates are cheaper if negotiated on the street, or you can contact a tour agency or your hotel (which can also arrange for a guide). Rates vary according to the kind of vehicle, its condition, actual travel time, and total number of hours hired. This amount should include fuel. Alternatively you can rent a car yourself and pay extra per day for the services of a driver/tour guide. It is courteous to give your driver money for a meal if you stop for lunch or dinner, or you may even invite him to dine with you. If you are pleased with the driver, a tip is appropriate. You will usually get a better rate if you arrange to use the same driver for all the trips during your stay. If you’re considering renting a self-drive car, bear in mind that driving in Bali can be dangerous. If you collide with anything, you are responsible for all costs. It’s safer to hire a driver so that you can relax and enjoy the sights. Motorcyles are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the island, but there are risks due to heavy traffic and poor roads. Helmets are required by the law but the cheap ones provided by rental agencies offer little protection. Bring your own or buy a good one from a local shop, especially one with a face shield for

protection from sun, rain, bugs and dust. Drive slowly and defensively, as more and more locals and tourists are injured or killed every year in accidents. Buy full insurance so that you are not responsible for any damage. Be sure to test drive it to check that everything is in working order, especially brakes and lights. You must have an International Driving Permit valid for motorcycles, or else go to the Denpasar Police Office to obtain a temporary permit, valid for three months on Bali only. Normally the person who rents you the motorbike will accompany you to the police office. Bring your passport, driving licence from your home country, and three passportsized photos. When riding a motorbike or driving a car, it is not uncommon to be flagged down by the police at a spot check point. You will be asked to show your driving licence and vehicle registration papers. Mountain bikes are also available for rent, but before you pay for one, make sure the wheels are properly aligned, the brakes work well, and that there is a working light. Because of the hazardous main roads, stick to the quieter country roads for maximum enjoyment. Be sure to carry a bottle of water and to continue to drink frequently to replenish the fluid that is lost. Wear a helmet for extra safety, and try not to ride at night because roads can be very poorly lit. Once off the main roads, walking can be a pleasant way to see Bali. Remember to wear a sunhat, sunscreen and good walking shoes. In your backpack carry bottled water, food or snacks, insect repellent, and an umbrella in case of rain or too much sun. Hitchhiking just isn’t done and most people will not understand what you are doing. This doesn’t mean that you can’t ask for a ride, but trying to get a free ride from a stranger is unusual.

BALI’S NORTH COAST

ot many visitors to Bali make it as far as the north coast, but those who are bold enough to venture away from the crowded south will discover a different world. With rugged volcanic mountains dividing the island from east to west and forming a natural barrier, North Bali developed a different culture and character from the south. The long north coast and the calm Bali Sea exposed the area to outside trade influences from India, China, Southeast Asia and the West. With a drier climate, less irrigation and fewer gentle slopes for wet rice cultivation, North Bali is more suitable for fruit and coffee growing. Nevertheless, the best quality Balinese rice comes from this region. In the northeast, the village of TEJAKULA was once a trading port that far outstripped the present-day ports of Benoa and Padangbai in influence and fame. In the 17th century, Balinese people from Blahbatuh, Karangasem and Bangli migrated here in large numbers, as well as Chinese and Persian migrants. According to a local legend, a brilliant light appeared in the skies over the village, visible right across the island and from as far away as China, and those who saw it believed it signified the enormous prosperity of the area. Tejakula was favoured, it seems, for its fertile volcanic soil, which supported the cultivation of rice and oranges. In fact, it was the largest citrus-growing area in Bali, and horses were used to pull the carts of harvested fruit, which was delivered all along the north coast. For this reason there is a famous horse bath just 100 metres from Tejakula’s main road, where

the horses were washed in the cool water after their long hot journeys. Fed by a natural spring, the bath has since been converted into a public bathing place – an elaborate white stone structure of sculpted arches and pillars, gushing water spouts and separate sections for men and women. Sea salt is a notable Tejakula industry. Here, the farmers use a processing technique that goes back hundreds of years, in which they channel seawater into salt ponds to allow for natural evaporation. Laboratory tests have revealed that Tejakula sea-salt is one of the best quality sea-salts in Indonesia because the absence of any refining process has allowed it to retain important minerals such as iron, magnesium, potassium, zinc, calcium and iodine. Tejakula is also home to Bali’s most complete ‘wayang wong’ troupe

of dancers and gamelan players. Wayang wong is a sacred masked dance-drama taken from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. ‘Wayang’ means shadow puppet, and ‘Wong’ means people, so unlike the wayang kulit, in which leather puppets are manipulated behind a screen, wayang wong is performed by actors on a stage. The dancer must imitate the character represented by the mask, and there is a permanent alternation between the sacred and the profane, beauty and ugliness, refinement and caricature. Not far from Tejakula is the cool spring-fed pool of AIR SANIH, positioned right next to the sea and sheltered by spreading frangipani trees. The pure, sweet water is sure to refresh any dusty traveller, and many local people flock here, especially around sunset, to bathe. The palm fringed black sand beach in this area is over five kilometres long, and the sea is safe

OUT OF TOWN for swimming. Accommodation, mostly budget-range places, and restaurants are available nearby if you decide to spend the night. Further along the north coast, west of Lovina, is the dive destination of PEMUTERAN, the landscape here is amazing, with the Tiga Saudara Mountains behind and Java’s volcano alley to one side. The district is famous for its artistic heritage. The style of the gold and silver work, together with the weaving, pottery and instrumentmaking is very distinctive and unique. In Pemuteran village, you will find a string of hotels, restaurants and dive centres along the main road, and a scenic, darksand beach that leads to a superb dive site with great drop-offs just one kilometre offshore. The reefs, known as Pura Tembok, Close Encounter and Napoleon, are dominated by soft corals, sponges and sea fans, with numerous fish including silver fusiliers, blue dancers, damsel fish, and occasional manta rays. In the 1990s the coast suffered environmental degradation from destructive fishing using bombs and cyanide, and in 1998 the House Reef at Pemuteran was devastated by El Niño. This prompted the highly successful Karang Lestari Coral Restoration Project, using Biorock technology, in which large holding domes are sunk with live coral samples. The reef receives electronic stimulus

from the shore and responds with remarkable growth rates. Furthermore, the local community has declared the reefs as protected no-fishing zones, for eco-tourism use only, with the village retaining rights to all snorkelling income from tourists. This serves to reinforce the basic understanding that each fish has more value in the sea than in a net or on the end of a fishing line. Even the dolphins have returned. The nearby village of Perancak, meanwhile, is the home of a small community-run turtle conservation programme, aimed at saving new turtle nests from predators including poachers hoping to sell the eggs in the markets. If you visit Perancak you can adopt a nest and release a baby turtle into the sea. On a final note, you might wish to visit Brahma Arama Vihara at

BANJAR – a striking Thai-style

Theravada Buddhist temple, with a bright orange roof and colourful statues of Buddha and other figures. It was founded in 1958 by a Balinese monk and rebuilt in 1971. The views down to the coast are stunning, and visitors are welcome as long as they dress modestly, lower their voices and walk barefoot. Just three kilometres from here is Air Panas Banjar, a natural spring and water shrine, with hot water gushing out from the mouths of carved ‘naga’ (serpents) into three pools. The healing sulfurous water cascading from spouts onto your back from a height of two or three metres, at perhaps 200 kilos per minute, is the ultimate massage. Ultimate indeed. Visit North Bali and it’s quite possible that you will never want to leave.

Pellegrino Ritter • image by Barbara Buescher

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Art is Balance. Between the good, the bad and the ugly. Between spirits, humans and future. My most favorite tools to explore the depth of the myths and the increasing velocity of daily life are pens, mobiles and slacklines.

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