London guide

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LONDON GUIDE

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London guide

British Museum The world’s oldest museum has no fewer than 6 million items spanning 1.8 million years of world civilization. The collection was started with the bequest of a physician and antiquarian, Sir Hans Sloane, in 1753. In the 18th and 19th centuries travellers and emissaries, such as Captain James Cook, Lord Elgin, Lord Curzon and Charles Townley, added treasures from around the world. The present, Classical style building was completed around 1850. In 2000 the central courtyard was opened as a new public space, the The Great Court. For more London museums Museums

Rosetta Stone In 196 BC Egyptian priests wrote a decree on this tablet in both Greek and in Egyptian hieroglyphics. Found in 1799, it proved crucial in deciphering Egyptian pictorial writing.

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Top 10 Exhibits Parthenon Sculptures This spectacular 5th-century BC frieze from the Parthenon was made under Pericles and shows a procession in honour of the goddess Athena. It was obtained in 1779 by Lord Elgin, Ambassador to Constantinople.

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Mummified Cat Cats and sacred cows were mummified in Ancient Egypt. This cat comes from Abydos and dates from around 30 BC. Many Egyptian deities took on animal shapes, as seen on wall paintings and other artifacts.

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Portland Vase Sold by Britain’s ambassador to Naples, Sir William Hamilton, to the Duchess of Portland, this exquisite 1st-century blue-and-opaque glass vase comes from a tomb in Rome, and was probably made by a Greek craftsman.

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Rameses II This is all that remains of the colossal granite statue of Rameses II (c1275 BC) from his memorial temple at Thebes. The statue was acquired in the late 18th century by Charles Townley, British ambassador to Rome.

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Ram in a Thicket Decorated with shells and gold leaf, this priceless ornament comes from Ur in Sumer, one of the world’s earliest civilizations. Games and musical instruments are also displayed.

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Mildenhall Treasure Some of the greatest early English treasures are 34 silver plates from the 4th century, found at Mildenhall in Suffolk. Their lively decorations include sea nymphs, satyrs and Hercules.

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Mixtec-Aztec Mosaic Mask Made by Mixtec artisans for the Aztec royal court in Mexico, this mosaic mask is believed to be of the god Quetzalcoatl, and dates from the 15th century.

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Kwakwaka’wakw The large, carved and painted wood thunderbird from North America was used as an anvil for breaking coppers(a form of currency) atpotlatches(ceremonies of Pacific Coast peoples in which chiefs destroyed their worldly goods).

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Buddha 10 Amitabha This impressive stoneware Buddha dates from

A comprehensive collection of more than 750,000 coins and medals dating from the 7th century BC to the present day. Prints and Drawings Priceless prints and drawings from the Renaissance form part of this rotating collection.

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around AD 585, during the Chinese Sui Dynasty, when Buddhism became the state religion.

Enlightenment This exhibition features the museum’s 18th-century collections from around the world.

British Museum Collections

Joseph Hotung Great Court Gallery 10 The This small gallery is used for temporary exhibitions.

Ancient Near East Some 6,000 years of history start with the spectacular carved reliefs from the Assyrian palace of Nineveh.

Top 10 Library Readers

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Ancient Egyptian and Sudanese Mummies and sarcophagi are among 70,000 objects in one of the world’s greatest collections.

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Greek and Roman Antiquities Highlights from the Classical world (c.3000 BC to c.AD 400) include the Parthenon sculptures and exquisite Greek and Roman vases.

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Japanese and Oriental Antiquities Buddhist limestone reliefs from India, Chinese antiquities, Islamic pottery and a Japanese collection so large it has to be shown on a rotating basis.

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Ethnography An incredible 350,000 objects from indigenous peoples around the world. The Africa gallery holds a fine array of art and artifacts.

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Karl Marx (1818–83) German revolutionary

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Mahatma Gandhi (1869–1948), Indian leader

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Oscar Wilde (1854–1900), playwright and wit

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Virginia Woolf (1882–1941), Bloomsbury novelist

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WB Yeats (1865–1939), Irish poet and playwright

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Thomas Hardy (1840–1928), English novelist

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George Bernard Shaw (1856–1950), Irish playwright

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EM Forster (1879–1970), English novelist

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Rudyard Kipling (1865–1936) Poet, novelist and chronicler of Empire

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Prehistory and Europe Covering a long period from prehistoric cave dwellers to the modern day, this collection includes Lindow Man, a 2,000-year-old body found preserved in a peat bog, the Sutton Hoo Ship Burial and some fine decorative arts including medieval jewellery and Renaissance clocks.

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Coins and Medals

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London guide

British Museum Practical information • Great Russell St WC1 • Map L1 • 020 7323 8000 • www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk • Open 10am–5:30pm daily (selected galleries 10am–8:30pm Thu & Fri) • Great Court: open 9am–6pm Mon, 9am–9pm Tue, Wed & Sun, 9am–11pm Thu–Sat • Guided tours at 10:30am, 1pm & 3pm daily

Top tips • There are three cafés and one restaurant. • Picnics can be eaten in the forecourt by the main entrance. • Highlights’ tours give an introduction to the collection. • The British Museum shop sells reproduction artifacts.

Museum Guide Visitor guides with full maps are on sale at the information desk in the Great Court and shops. Otherwise start to the left of the main entrance with the Assyrian, Egyptian, Greek and Roman galleries. The North Wing ethnography and Asian galleries provide a change from Classical material, as do the early British, medieval and Renaissance collections on the east side.

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London guide

National Gallery The National Gallery has around 2,300 pictures, from the early Renaissance to the Impressionists (1250–1900), forming one of the greatest collections in the world. Containing work by the most important painters of the main European schools, the collection was acquired from John Julius Angerstein in 1824, and moved to the present building (also home to the National Portrait Gallery) in 1838. The Sainsbury Wing now houses the excellent Renaissance collection. From 2003–2005 rooms may close owing to building work. More on London galleries

The Wilton Diptych A highlight of Gothic art, this exquisite English royal painting, by an unknown artist, shows Richard II being recommended to the Virgin by saints John the Baptist, Edward and Edmund.

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Top 10 Paintings Virgin and Child with St Anne and John the Baptist This full-size drawing for a painting, known as a cartoon (fromcartone, a large sheet of paper), is one of the masterpieces of the Renaissance, by Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519).

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The Arnolfini Portrait One of the most famous paintings from the extensive Flemish collection is this unusual and masterly portrait of an Italian banker and his wife in Bruges. Jan van Eyck (1389–1441) brought oil painting to a new and colourful height.

Rokeby Venus Painted in Rome to replace a lost Venetian painting, theRokeby Venus is the only nude by Diego Velázquez (1599–1660), court painter to Spain’s Philip IV.

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The Ambassadors Full of symbols and hidden meaning, this painting by Hans Holbein (1533) has a foreshortened skull in the foreground.

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Mystic Nativity Feminine grace has never been depicted better than by the painter Sandro Botticelli (1445–1510). Painted in a centennial year,Mystic Nativity reflects his own anxieties, with an inscription fromRevelation .

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Supper at Emmaus A master of light and shade, Caravaggio (1573–1610) painted without preliminary drawings and used contemporary costumes and settings to produce a vivid realism.

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Young Woman Standing at a Virginal Peace and calm rule the works of the Dutch painter Jan Vermeer (1632–75). Many of his interiors were painted in his home in Delft, but it has never been possible to identify his models.

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Gallery Guide The gallery is divided into four areas. The Sainsbury Wing contains the Early Renaissance collection, with paintings from 1250 to 1500. The West Wing displays works from 1500 to 1600, the North Wing 1600–1700, and the East Wing 1700–1900. Although the main entrance is on Trafalgar Square, the Sainsbury Wing makes a more sensible starting point.

A Woman Bathing in a Stream This portrait by Rembrandt (1606–69) was painted when his technical powers were at their height, and shows his striking brushwork and mastery of earthy colours.

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at La 10 Bathers Grenouillière Claude Monet (1840–1926), the original Impressionist, explored the effect of light on water at La Grenouillière, a popular bathing spot on the Seine, where he worked alongside Auguste Renoir.

National Gallery Practical information • Trafalgar Square WC2 • Map L4 • 020 7747 2885 • www.nationalgallery.org.uk • Open 10am–6pm daily (10am–9pm Wed). • Sainsbury Wing exhibitions open until 9pm on Wed • Free • Free guided tours at 11:30am and 2:30pm daily (also 6:30pm Wed)

Top tips • There is a spacious café and a good restaurant. • The Sainsbury Wing has an excellent art bookshop. • Guided tours and audio guides are available. • Explore the collection on screen with Art Start, which is situated in the Sainsbury Wing.

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National Portrait Gallery This is one of the most unexpectedly pleasing galleries in London. Unrelated to the neighbouring National Gallery, it opened in 1856. Well known names can be put to some not-so-well-known faces, and there are some fascinating paintings from the time of the Tudors to the present day. Royalty is depicted from Richard II (1367–1400) to Queen Elizabeth II, and the collection also holds a 1554 miniature, the oldest self-portrait in oils in England. The gallery runs annual prizes for both painting and photography. More London galleries

Queen Elizabeth This anonymous portrait is one of several of Elizabeth I, who presided over England’s Renaissance (1533–1603). The Tudor rooms are the most satisfying in the gallery, and they contain two cases of miniature paintings, a popular genre of the time.

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Shakespeare This is the only portrait of Britain’s most famous playwright known with certainty to have been painted during his lifetime (1564–1616).

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The Brontës Found in a drawer in 1914, this portrait of the great literary sisters, Charlotte, Emily and Anne Brontë, from Yorkshire, was painted by their brother, Branwell. He appears as a faint image behind them.

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The Whitehall Mural This cartoon of Henry VII and his son Henry VIII by Hans Holbein (1537) was drawn for a large mural in the Palace of Whitehall, lost when the palace burnt down in 1698.

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Top 10 Portraits

George Gordon, 6th Lord Byron This painting of Lord Byron (1788–1824), by Thomas Phillips, depicts the poet and champion of liberty in Albanian dress. He died fighting with Greek insurgents against the Turks.

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Horatio Nelson This 1799 portrait by Guy Head depicts Nelson after the Battle of the Nile. Apart from Queen Victoria and the Duke of Wellington, he was painted more often than any other British figure in history.

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Alfred Lord Tennyson This picture of the poet laureate is by one of the pioneers of photography, Julia Margaret Cameron (1815–79). She was given a camera at the age of 48 and was noted for her memorable portraits of Tennyson, the naturalist Charles Darwin and the essayist Thomas Carlyle.

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The Beatles Photographic portraits took on a new lease of life in the 1960s, when photographers themselves became stars. Norman Parkinson, who took this picture of the Beatles, was one ofVogue ’s favourite fashion photographers.

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Gallery Guide The gallery’s three floors are arranged chronologically. Take the escalator to the second floor and start with the stunning Tudor and Stuart galleries (1–8). Men and women of arts, science and industry from the 18th and early 19th century are in the other galleries (9–20). The first floor has eminent Victorians and early photographs. The Balcony Gallery contains contemporary photographs and portraits.

Germaine Greer The feminist author ofThe Female Eunuch is brilliantly captured by Portuguese artist Paula Rego, who spent a year as artist-in-residence at the Gallery.

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Thatcher 10 Margaret Today’s famous are more likely to sit for a photographer than a painter. This revealing portrait of the former British prime minister by Helmut Newton allows you to study her in a way you would never dare in real life.

National Portrait Gallery Practical information • St Martin’s Place WC2 • Map L3 • 020 7312 2463 • www.npg.org.uk • Open10am–6pm Sat–Wed, 10am–9pm Thu–Fri • Free

Top tips • The Portrait Restaurant has great views across Trafalgar Square, down Whitehall to Parliament. • The gallery bookshop stocks fashion, costume, history and biography titles. • The ground-floor gift shop has good postcards. • Free concerts at 6:30pm on Fridays, and free lectures at 7pm on Thursdays.

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London guide

British Airways London Eye An amazing feat of engineering, this giant observation wheel is the highest in the world, and offers fascinating views over the whole of London. Towering over the Thames opposite the Houses of Parliament, it was built to celebrate the Millennium year, and has proved enormously popular. Its 32 enclosed capsules each hold 25 people and offer total visibility in all directions. A flight on the London Eye takes 30 minutes and, on a clear day, you can see for up to 25 miles (40 km) across the capital and the south of England.

finance centre. It stands in the middle of the Isle of Dogs, in an area formerly occupied by the West India Docks. Tower 42 Built for the National Westminster Bank, this was the tallest building in London until overtaken by Canada Tower. The fact that it stands out shows that the City is still relatively unspoiled by high-rise buildings.

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Observation capsule

British Telecom Tower Built for the Post Office in 1961–5, this 190-m (620-ft) tower is a television, radio and telecommunications tower. At the height of terrorist activity in the 1970s, the revolving restaurant at the top was closed and has never re-opened.

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Top 10 Sights Houses of Parliament The London Eye rises high above the Houses of Parliament on the far side of the Thames. From here you can look down on Big Ben and see the Commons Terrace, where Members of Parliament and the House of Lords drink, dine and discuss policy by the river.

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Windsor Castle Windsor Castle sits by the Thames to the west of London. The largest occupied castle in the world, it is still a favourite residence of the royal family.

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Wren Churches The dome of St Paul’s stands out as the star of the City churches. Pricking the sky around it are the spires of Wren’s other 31 churches, such as St Bride’s, the tallest, on which wedding cakes have been modelled.

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Heathrow To the west of the city, London’s main airport is one of the busiest international airports in the world. The Thames acts as a kind of runway, as planes line up overhead to begin their descent.

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Alexandra Palace The world’s first high-definition television broadcasting service was transmitted by the BBC from Alexandra Palace on November 2, 1936. There is an ice hockey rink and exhibition halls here.

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Canada Tower London’s tallest building is at Canary Wharf in the heart of Docklands, the East London business and

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Crystal Palace This BBC transmission mast to the south of the city is near the site of the 1851 Great Exhibition “Crystal Palace” that was moved here in 1852 and burned down spectacularly in 1936.

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Elizabeth II Bridge 10 Queen On a clear day you can just make out the lowest downstream crossing on the Thames, a huge suspension bridge at Dartford, some 20 miles (32 km) away. Traffic flows north in a tunnel under the river, south over the bridge.

British Airways London Eye Practical information • South Bank SE1 • Map N5 • 0870 5000 600 • www.ba-londoneye.com • Open Feb–Apr & Oct– Dec: 9:30am–8pm daily; May, Jun & Sep: 9:30am– 9pm daily; Jul–Aug: 9: 30am–10pm daily. Closed 25 Dec & for annual maintenance in January • Prices vary. Reductions for children, the disabled and senior citizens • Timed tickets on the hour and half-hour

Top tips • There are two cafés in County Hall. • Tickets are available on the day but advanced booking is advisable, especially at weekends and in the school holidays. • Binoculars are rented out in the ticket hall. • After-dark flights make the city look romantic.

Millennium Legacy The British Airways London Eye was one of a number of nationwide projects designed for the Millennium. The focus in London was on the enormous Millennium Dome, a spectacular structure built in Greenwich to house a national exhibition. Other projects were Tate Modernand the Millennium Bridge, the Waterloo Millennium Pier, the Great Court at the British Museum and the opening up of Somerset House.

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Tate Modern Affiliated with Tate Britain, London’s most exciting new gallery is housed within the old Bankside power station, on a prime riverside site opposite the City. Large enough for huge installations, its 88 galleries provide a light, airy space in which to display Tate’s collection of international modern art. This includes works by Dalí, Picasso, Matisse, Rothko and Warhol as well as work by many acclaimed contemporary artists. The displays are changed frequently. More on London galleries

Three Dancers One of the 20th-century’s most important painters, Pablo Picasso (1881–1973) was noted for the different painting styles he mastered as he pushed the bounds of Modern Art. A turning point in his career,Three Dancers marks the beginning of a new major phase of his art.

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Top 10 Exhibits Fountain Any object can be selected at random and described as a work of art, according to Marcel Duchamp (1887–1968). His urinal, entitledFountain , set the tone for the absurd streak that runs through contemporary art.

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Marilyn Diptych The pioneer of Pop Art, New-York based Andy Warhol (1927–87) produced this icon of Marilyn Monroe. The work is one of a series of paintings of the actress that Warhol made following her death in 1962. He was also an underground film maker and produced numerous shorts.

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The Bath The French painter Pierre Bonnard (1867–1947) had a highly individual approach to composition. InThe Bath , he cropped the tub and used the strong geometry of the back wall to great effect. The luminous colours lend a sensual quality to the painting.

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Forms Without Life Leader of the contemporary “Britpack” of artists, Damien Hirst (b1965) often used dead animals in his earlier works.Forms Without Life , a display of beautiful shells, represents the dilemma between collection, knowledge and life.

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Light Red over Black In this late painting by American Abstract Expressionist Mark Rothko (1903–70), swathes of pure colour create a mood of brooding contemplation.

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Summertime No. 9A The American Jackson Pollock (1912–56) was the pioneer of Action Painting. He carried out his first “drip” painting in 1947, by pouring paint directly on to huge canvases tacked to the floor.Summertime No. 9A is from 1948.

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Tate Modern Practical information • Bankside SE1

The Kiss This sculpture of a kissing couple by Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) depicts characters from the epic poemInferno (Hell ) by the medieval poet Dante. The lovers, Paulo and Francesca, were murdered by Francesca’s enraged husband.

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• 020 7887 8008 • Map R4 • www.tate.org.uk • Open 10am–6pm Sun–Thu, 10am–10pm Fri–Sat. Closed 24–26 Dec • Free (admission charge for temporary exhibitions)

Composition (Man and Woman) One of the most distinctive sculptors of the 20th century, the Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti (1901–66) has always been exceptionally well represented in the Tate collection. This piece from 1927 was created while he was looking at Cubism. It explores different ways of representing the human form.

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10 England This piece from 1980 is by the performing art duo Gilbert and George. The artists met in 1967 while studying at St Martin’s School of Art and have worked together ever since. They were shortlisted for the Turner Prize in 1984 and again in 1986 when their European touring show won. The duo have a world-wide reputation and are among several British artists who have work on display in both Tate Modern and Tate Britain.

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• A new boat service connects with Tate Britain

Top tips • There is a great view from the restaurant on level 7. The Café on level 2 overlooks the gardens. The Espresso Bar on level 4 has a riverside balcony. • With more than 10,000 titles, the Turbine Hall book-shop claims to be the largest art bookshop in London. • Daily events of cinema, video, talks and tours are advertised in the main hall.

Gallery Guide The main entrance is down a ramp into the huge Turbine Hall below ground level, on level 1, where the coat check, information and main shop are. You can also enter the gallery on the ground floor, level 2, by the Café or by the Millennium Bridge. The main themed galleries are on levels 3 (nude/ action/body; history/ memory/society) and 5 (still life/object/real life; landscape/matter/ environment). Temporary exhibitions are on level 4, and level 7 has a restaurant. As with many of the London galleries, the Tate’s works of art are sometimes moved to temporary locations, loaned out or removed for restoration.

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Tate Britain Opened in 1897 as the national gallery of British art, the magnificent collection at London’s first Tate gallery ranges from 1500 to the present day. Its founder was Henry Tate (1819–99) who made his fortune from sugar. The collection contains works by all Britain’s major painters, and was greatly added to by J M W Turner. Paintings are often moved to Tate’s other galleries, loaned out or removed for restoration. The works on these pages, therefore, may not always be on display. More on London galleries

Norham Castle, Sunrise J M W Turner (1775–1851) was the great genius of English landscape painting. This work typifies his use of abstraction and luminosity of colour.

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Flatford Mill This scene is from England’s other great landscape painter, John Constable (1776–1837). His scenes were set mostly in Suffolk and London, where he became obsessed with cloud formations.

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Wooded Landscape with a Peasant Resting Thomas Gainsborough (1727–88) was a portrait and landscape painter and a favourite of the Royal Family. His family groups in landscapes are among the finest “Conversation pieces” in English art. An artistic interpretation of his native Suffolk, this is one of his earliest landscapes, painted in 1747.

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Three Ladies Adorning a Term of Hymen Joshua Reynolds (1723–92) was the first president of the Royal Academy and a painter in the “Grand Manner” – as typified by this painting. He raised the international status of British art.

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Mare and Foals in a River Landscape Liverpool-born and self-taught, George Stubbs (1724–1806) moved to London in 1759 and became the country’s greatest painter of horses. This painting is one of his finest.

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Top 10 Paintings

Elohim Creating Adam Born in London and trained at the Royal Academy School, poet, mystic, illustrator and engraver William Blake (1757–1827) claimed to be guided by visions. Elohim Creating Adam is typical of his work, of which the Tate has a large collection.

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A Scene from the Beggar’s Opera This lively painting by William Hogarth (1697–1764) depicts the performance of a popular opera. Hogarth was a great satirist and much of his work provides sharp commentary on society of his day.

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Beata Beatrix Dante Gabriel Rossetti (1828–82) was a leading member of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, a group of painters who harked back to the romance of the Middle Ages in their attempts to bring a moral and literary austerity into their art.

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RecumbentFigures One of several 20th-century artists from Yorkshire, Henry Moore (1898–1986) was an outstanding sculptor whose work is on public display around London. This drawing by Moore shows two sleeping figures.

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Studies for 10 Three Figures at the Base of a Crucifixion Leading light of the Soho arts scene, Francis Bacon (1910–1992) was uncompromising in his view of life. When first shown, this series of paintings caused an immediate sensation, shocking audiences with their savage imagery. They have become some of his best- known works.

Gallery Guide The permanent collection occupies three-quarters of the main floor. Starting in the northwest corner, it follows a broad chronological sweep from the 16th century to the present. The collection is arranged into rooms exploring historical themes interspersed with displays devoted to single major artists. Impressive loan exhibitions covering all manner of British art are installed in the remaining quarter of the main floor and in the six new galleries on the lower floor. The Turner Bequest, some 300 oil paintings and about 20,000 watercolours by J M W Turner, is displayed in the adjoining Clore Gallery. All of the oils are on view, while the watercolours are the subject of changing displays.

Tate Britain Practical information • Millbank SW1 • Map E5 • 020 7887 8000 • www.tate.org.uk • Open 10am–5.50pm daily. Closed 24–26 Dec • Free (admission charge for most temporary exhibitions) • A new Tate to Tate boat service travels between Tate Britain and Tate Modern every 20 minutes from Millbank Pier outside Tate Britain

Top tips • Good basement café. • Excellent restaurant, with good wine list. • Free guided tours, talks and films every day of the week. Free audio guides are also available. • Comprehensive art bookshop. • Free cloakroom.

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Natural History Museum There are some 70 million specimens in the Natural History Museum’s fascinating collection. Originally the repository for items brought home by Charles Darwin and Captain Cook’s botanist, Joseph Banks, the museum combines traditional displays with many innovative, hands-on exhibits. With numerous kid-pleasers, such as the impressive dinosaur collection, it remains one of London’s most popular museums. Still a hot-house of research, the museum employs 300 scientists and librarians. More on London museums

many of the 1.3 million known kinds of arthropods, or creepy-crawlies, share our homes.

Top 10 Exhibits Gemstones The museum’s extensive collection of gemstones, rocks and minerals includes the brilliant red Rhodochrosite from the USA. The Earth’s Treasury Gallery investigates how quartz keeps time and how carbon becomes diamonds.

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Model Baby A giant model of an unborn baby in the Human Biology galleries explores the sounds we hear in the womb. Other hands-on exhibits test abilities and reactions and show how physical characteristics are inherited.

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Earthquake Simulator The Power Within looks at volcanoes and earthquakes. You can stand in a Japanese supermarket and experience the 1995 Kobe earthquake.

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Water Cycle Video Wall A semi-spherical video wall in the Ecology Gallery shows the water cycle and how it links all life on the planet. A walk-through leaf shows how plants make oxygen.

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Journey Through the Globe Approach the Earth galleries by an escalator that travels through a giant globe. The model is made of iron, zinc and copper to symbolize the Earth’s composition.

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No. 1 Crawley House Perhaps the most hair-raising display is housed in No. 1 Crawley House, a gallery which shows just how

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Fossils Marine reptiles that lived at the time of the dinosaurs have survived in some remarkable fossils, such

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as the pregnant femaleIchthyosaur , found in a Dorset garden, which lived 187–178 million years ago. Darwin Centre Opened in 2003, this new wing gives visitors access to the priceless specimen collection gathered since 1753 from all corners of the earth. The fascinating Spirit Collection is made up of over 22 million specimens preserved in 450,000 jars.

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Dinosaurs Deinonychus , one of the museums impressively life-like animatronic models, lurches and roars in this hugely popular gallery. More traditional exhibits of fossilized skeletons and eggs are also on display.

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Museum Guide The museum is set out in three distinct sections: the Life galleries, which include the Dinosaur Gallery, the Darwin Centre, which focuses on evolution, and the Earth galleries, with their geological displays. The main entrance leads to the imposing central hall with its grand staircase and terracotta animals. From here, the Life galleries and Darwin Centre can be accessed. The Earth galleries in the former Geological Museum, can be reached from either the main entrance or by a separate one on Exhibition Road.

10 Borehole A 150-m (490-ft) borehole drilled beneath the museum reveals its fascinating contents in the Earth galleries, where fossil fuels and renewable energy sources are explored.

Natural History Museum Practical information • Cromwell Road SW7 • Map B5 • 020 7942 5000 • www.nhm.ac.uk • Open10am–5:50pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5:50pm Sun. Last admission 5:30pm • Free

Top tips • Try the Life galleries Restaurant, or the other two cafés and snack bar. • A number of different tours are available, including a visit to the outdoor Wildlife Garden. Details at the Life galleries information desk.

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Science Museum Packed with exciting hands-on exhibits, this huge museum explores the fascinating world of science through centuries of scientific and technological development. It shows British inventiveness leading the world in the Industrial Revolution, with spinning looms and steam engines, navigation and early flight. It also has displays on contemporary science and cutting-edge technologies, with numerous interactive exhibits in the hi-tech Wellcome Wing. More on London museums

Puffing Billy Puffing Billy is the world’s oldest remaining steam locomotive. It was built in England in 1813 and used to transport coal. George Stephenson’s famous 1829Rocket, the first locomotive engine to pull passenger carriages, is also on display.

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Top 10 Exhibits SimEx Sim Rides These rides are 20-minute science-themed adventures aboard a state-of-the-art motion simulator. Film projection and digital sound are used to create a multisensory environment.

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Babbage’s Difference Engine The computing and mathematics galleries on the second floor display a model of the Difference Engine No 2. Designed by Charles Babbage (1791–1871), it was the forerunner of the modern computer.

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The Secret Life of the Home This gallery contains a wacky variety of household gadgets and gizmos, from washing machines to burglar alarms.

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Apollo 10 Command Module The Apollo 10 Command Module, which went around the moon in May 1969, is on display, as is a replica of the Apollo 11 Lunar Lander. Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong stepped onto the moon from the original in July 1969.

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Harle Sykes Red Mill Engine This immaculate steam engine can sometimes be seen up and running. It’s just one exhibit in the East Hall’s Power gallery, which includes one of James Watt’s original 1788 rotative

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steam engines.

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Dish of E. coli Health Matters is a multimedia look at medicine. Aids, cancer and heart disease are reviewed, by patients, doctors and alternative practitioners. Take a look atE. coli bacteria, a modern killer.

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On Air A radio and sound studio on the third floor houses all the equipment used in broadcasting. Using computers, children over 12 can mix sounds and play

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them back. IMAX Cinema The cinema shows 2D and 3D films on a screen higher than four double-decker buses. An impressive six-channel surround sound system will totally immerse you in the action.

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10 Digitopolis

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This futuristic gallery in the Wellcome Wing looks at digital sound and vision. Networking People shows how digital networks can be used in our daily lives. Artificial intelligence is also explored.

Science Museum Practical information • Exhibition Road SW7 • Map B5 • 0870 870 4868 • www.sciencemuseum.org.uk • Open 10am–6pm daily • Free(separate charge for SimEx Sim Rides and IMAX cinema)

Top tips • There is a restaurant, several cafés and a picnic area where you can eat your own food. • Visitor information touch screens throughout the museum give details of exhibits. • The bookshop is an excellent place to buy innovative gifts.

Museum Guide The museum is spread over seven floors. Heavy machinery and large-scale museum highlights are on the ground floor. Telecommunications, time, agriculture and weather are on the first floor. The new Energy Gallery and computing are on the second floor, and heat, optics health and flight are on the third. The fourth and fifth floors are dedicated to medical history. At the west end of the building is the four-storey Wellcome Wing.

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London guide

Buckingham Palace London’s most famous residence, and one of its best recognized landmarks, Buckingham Palace was built as a town house for the first duke of Buckingham in 1705. Between 1824 and 1831, George IV commissioned John Nash to extend the house into a substantial palace, which was first occupied by Queen Victoria in 1837. The extensive front of the building was completed by Sir Aston Webb in 1913. The Palace is now home to the present Queen and the State Rooms are open to the public during summer. Many royal parks and gardens in London are also accessible to the public (see Royal Parks and Gardens). More on royal London View from Trafalgar Square to Houses of Parliament

The Balcony On special occasions, the Queen and other members of the Royal Family step on to the Palace balcony to wave to the crowds gathered below.

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Decorative lock on Palace gates

Grand Staircase The Ambassadors’ Entrance leads into the Grand Hall. From here the magnificent Grand Staircase, with gilded balustrades, rises to the first floor where the State Rooms are found.

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Top 10 Highlights Changing of the Guard The Palace guards, in their familiar red tunics and tall bearskin hats, are changed at 11am each morning (10am on Sundays, and alternate days in winter). The guards march to the Palace from the nearby Wellington Barracks.

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Queen’s Gallery The newly extended gallery now displays more of the Royal Collection’s masterpieces, including works by Vermeer and Leonardo. Also on show are priceless furniture, porcelain, jewels and books.

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Throne Room This houses the thrones of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip used for the coronation. Designed by John Nash, the room has a highly ornamented ceiling and magnificent chandeliers.

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London guide

Picture Gallery The largest room in the Palace has a barrel-vaulted glass ceiling and contains a number of paintings from the Royal Collection, including works by Rembrandt, Rubens and Van Dyck.

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Buckingham Palace Practical information • Buckingham Palace SW1 • Map J6 • 020 7321 2233; 020 7766 7300 (booking line) • www.royal.gov.uk State Apartments:

State Ballroom Banquets for visiting heads of state are held here. The most glittering social event of the year is in November, when 1,200 members of the Diplomatic Corps arrive in full court dress.

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• open Aug–Sep: 9:30am–4:30pm daily. • adults £13.50; students and over 60s £11.50; under 17s £7.00; family ticket £34; under 5s free Royal Mews: • 020 7766 7302. Open Mar–Oct: 11am–4pm daily (last adm 3:15pm). • adults £6.00; students and over 60s £5.00; under 17s £3.50; under 5s free Queen’s Gallery:

Royal Mews Caring for 34 horses, including the Windsor Greys, which pull the royal coach on state occasions, these are the finest working stables in Britain. The collection of coaches, landaus and carriages includes the magnificent gold State Coach, which was built in c.1760.

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Palace Garden The extensive Palace garden is an oasis for wildlife and includes a four-acre lake. There are three Royal garden parties held here each year, to which over 27,000 guests

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are invited.

10 Brougham Every day a horse-drawn Brougham carriage sets out to collect and deliver royal packages around London, including the Palace’s weekly copy ofCountry Life .

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• 020 7766 7301. Open 10am–5:30pm (last adm 4:30pm).

Top tips • Time your visit to coincide with the Changing of the Guard.

Palace Life The official business of the monarchy takes place in the Palace, which has a staff of around 300. The Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of York, Prince Edward and the Princess Royal all have offices here. The most senior member of the Royal Household is the Lord Chamberlain. The Master of the Household and 200 domestic staff organize many functions in the Palace every year, including 22 Investitures for recipients of awards which are given by The Queen.

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London guide

Royal Parks and Gardens Buckingham Palace overlooks two of London’s most central Royal Parks –St James’s and Green Park – and is just a short walk from Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. Along with the other London parks, these provide year-round pleasure and an invaluable retreat for all who live, work and visit the city. Many offer facilities for tennis, riding and boating, as well as opportunities for other activities. Picnicking in the park while a band plays is one of London’s greatest summer joys. More on royal London

Regent’s Park Home to London Zoo and an open-air theatre, Regent’s Park is surrounded by John Nash’s Classical terraces. The fragrant Queen Mary’s Rose Garden is a delight .

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Top 10 Green Spaces Hyde Park One of the most popular features of this huge London park (seeHyde Park and Kensintgon Gardens) is its lake, the Serpentine, with boats for rent and a swimming area. Horses can be rented and ridden in the park. At Speakers’ Corner, near Marble Arch, you can get up on a soapbox and address the crowds who gather there.

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Green Park Popular with office workers, this small park has deckchairs for hire in summer. It was once part of the grounds of St James’s Palace.

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St James’s Park London’s most elegant park was laid out in the 18th century by Capability Brown. Its lake is home to some 40 varieties of waterfowl. It has an attractive café and, in summer, lunchtime concerts are given on the bandstand (see St James's Park).

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Kensington Gardens A continuation of Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens was opened to the public in 1841. More recently, the magical Princess Diana Memorial Gardens playground has proved a great hit with children.

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Greenwich Park The 0º longitude meridian passes through the Royal Observatory Greenwich, located on a hill in this leafy family park. There are great views of the Old Royal Naval College, and over London (see

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Greenwich). Richmond Park Covering an area of 2,350 acres, this is by far the largest Royal Park. Herds of red and fallow deer roam freely across the heath. In late spring, the Isabella Plantation is a blaze of colourful rhododendrons. The Royal Ballet School is based in the White Lodge, originally built for George II in 1727.

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London guide

Primrose Hill North of Regent’s Park, Primrose Hill offers spectacular views of the city skyline from its 66-m (216-ft) summit. Once a popular venue for duels, this small park was saved from development in 1841 when it was taken over by the Crown Commissioners.

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Bushy Park Chestnut Sunday in May, when the trees’ blossoms are out, is the time to come to Bushy Park, near Hampton Court. Like Richmond, this park is run by the Royal Parks Constabulary, game-keepers and wardens.

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Square 10 Grosvenor The hub of high society from the early 18th century until World War II, Grosvenor Square is the only London square that is owned by the Crown. On its west side stands the imposing American Embassy.

Royal Parks and Gardens Practical information • Royal Parks HQ, The Old Police House, Hyde Park, London W2 • Map C4 • 020 7298 2000 • www.royalparks.gov.uk

Top tips • Most of the larger parks have a number of open-air cafés, restaurants and ice-cream stands. • Parks open at dawn and close at sunset (around 9:30pm in summer). Don’t get caught in the middle of large parks just as the sun goes down. • Open-air concerts, festivals and other events are regularly held in Hyde Park, Regent’s Park and St James’s Park in the summer months.

Sport for Kings Much of the land of London’s Royal Parks was taken from the Church by Henry VIII in the 1530s, during the Reformation. He was a passionate hunter and filled Hyde, Green and St James’s parks with deer. Henry also hunted in Greenwich Park, London’s oldest, having been founded in 1433. From the late 17th century, parks were landscaped and gardens laid out. In 1689 William and Mary ordered the planting of Kensington Gardens. In 1811 the Prince Regent and Nash built the private estate that became Regent’s Park.

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1 places eat


London guide places eat

Fifth Floor Café

Harrod’s Ice-cream Parlour Freshly-made in Harrod’s kitchens, the ice cream in this fourth-floor café is arranged into mouth-watering, elaborate sundaes, including such old-fashioned treats as banana splits.

➤ Knightsbridge SW1 • Map C5

EAT One of an excellent chain of sandwich bars with a selection of sandwiches, soups, sushi and salads.

➤ 16A Soho Square W1 • Map L2 Open all day for breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner.

➤ Harvey Nichols, 67 Brompton Rd SW3 • Map C4

Frank’s Café

Gordon’s Wine Bar

Run by the Ruocco family since the 1960s, this is one of few good, cheap cafés in central London. English breakfasts, pasta, veal, and sandwiches are served.

An ancient dive where wine, port and Madeira are served from the barrel in schooners or beakers.

➤ 52 Neal Street WC2 • Map M2

➤ 47 Villiers Street WC2 • Map M4

Café Boheme Sandwiches, salads and light meat and fish dishes are served until 3am Monday to Saturday and 11pm on Sunday.

➤ 13 Old Compton Street W1 • Map L2

Isola An ultra-trendy interior of chrome and white leather provides the setting for top-notch Italian cooking

➤ 145 Knightsbridge SW1 • Map C4 • 020 7838 1044 • ££££

Spaniards Inn Opposite the toll house on Hampstead Heath, this is one of London’s most famous old pubs. Traditional English pub food is mingled with more exotic choices such ascalamari (squid).

➤ Spaniards Road NW3 • 020 8731 6571 • Tube Hampstead, Golders Green • £

Balans Café Invariably packed in the evenings, this lively bar stays open 24 hours. Hot dishes and sandwiches are on hand to keep people on their feet. Their eggs benedict is to die for!

➤ 34 Old Compton Street W1 • Map L2

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London guide

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London guide

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St Paul’s

St Paul’s Cathedral

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2009Wander l ustTr avelAwar ds ' TopGui debookSer i es' Wi nner !

2009


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