THE COOK STREET SWEATER
The “Cook Street Sweater” was designed during a weekend trip to Victoria, BC, and made with some lovely Madelinetosh Tosh DK yarn that I purchased there. I essentially made things up as I went along; the pattern came about when I attempted to put my notes into some semblance of order. I am providing the pattern for free in one size (36” bust). Please email me at blackcrowknits@gmail.com if you encounter any errors, confusion, etc. The sweater is knit from the bottom up, in-the-round, until the underarms. Front and back bodice are then knit separately, back and forth, from the underarms. Shoulders are shaped using short-rows, and joined using the three needle bind-off method. Sleeves are picked up around the armholes and shaped using short-rows. The neckline is trimmed with 1x1 ribbing. Short-rows are added to the back for some extra length, and back darts have been added for extra shaping. The sweater should have no or –ve ease at the bust, and be a bit swingy at the hips.
Abbreviations: CO = cast on BO = bind off K = knit P = purl SSK = slip, slip, knit K2tog = knit 2 together M1R = make one right M1L = make one left PM = place marker SM = slip marker BOR = beginning of round CDD = centred double decrease RS = right side WS = wrong side
Needles: US size 6 (4.0 mm; US size 5 (3.75 mm) for hem and cuff ribbing; US size 4 (3.5 mm) needles for neck trim; 16” circular needle for the neck trim; 32” circular needle for body. Yarn: Madelinetosh Tosh DK (100% superwash merino; 225 yards/205 metres); I used the Curiosity colourway. Yardage: Approximately 5.5 skeins (1,235 yards / 1,125 m) Gauge = 21 sts and 28 rows over 4” / 10 cm. Other notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scrap yarn, stitch holders. Final Bust Measurement: I designed this sweater for my size (Bust = 36”) with no ease at the bust. Feel free to adjust the pattern to meet your own dimensions. Alternating Skeins: I always alternate skeins when using hand‐dyed yarn. The following link is helpful for how to do this. German Short‐Rows: I prefer German short‐rows as I find they make the most invisible short‐ row. Follow this link to a video tutorial on the method. Note that when you are instructed to “knit (or purl) the stitch + leg,” I mean both the stitch and the accompanying “leg” that resulted from the turn.
Designed by Laura Dear of Black Crow Knits. Copyright 2016. All Rights Reserved. Please email blackcrowknits@gmail.com with any comments, errata, or questions.
LOWER BODY
CO 232 stitches using US 6.5 (3.75 mm) 32” circular needle using long tail cast‐on; join in the round; place marker for BOR. K1 P1 ribbing for 7 rounds (approximately 1 inch). Switch to 4 mm needles and knit one round as follows: K 104 (Back); PM; K 132 (Front); PM for beginning of round. Begin using German short‐rows for adding length to the back: o Row 1 (RS): SM; K to 20 sts before 2nd marker; turn; o Row 2 (WS): P to 20 sts before BOR marker; turn; o Row 3 (RS): K to stitch + leg, K both; K 6; turn; o Row 4 (WS): P to stitch + leg; P them both; P 6; turn; o Repeat Rows 3 & 4 two more times; o Knit the next round, knitting the stitch + leg from the short‐rows as you encounter them; end at the BOR marker. After final short row, K until the body measures 1.5 inches at the BOR marker. SM. This next round is the set‐up round for back dart shaping: SM; K 35; PM; K 34; PM; K35; K to 3 sts before end or round. Use different colour stitch markers to indicate where the back shaping is to take place. From this point forward, three different things will be happening at the same time: waist shaping, back dart shaping, and the front gathers. I have written out the instructions separately, but remember that you will be carrying out these instructions AT THE SAME TIME. Please read through the following instructions before beginning to be sure you see how these different steps unfold.
Waist Shaping: Begin waist shaping decreases 3 sts before BOR marker SSK; K1; SM; K1 K2tog; K to end of round. Repeat waist shaping round every 10th round, 6 more times (28 sts decreased altogether). Body should measure 10 ½ inches to side stitch marker.
After last decrease round, knit 14 rounds and stop 3 sts before BOR marker. Begin waist shaping increases: 3 sts before BOR marker M1R; K 1; SM; K1; M1L; knit to end of round. Repeat waist shaping increases every 6th round 3 more times (16 sts increased altogether). Body will measure approximately 16” at the side marker. Knit until the body measures 17.5 inches at the BOR marker. You should have 196 sts on your needles.
Back Darts Begin back dart decreases the round AFTER the first waist shaping round, as follows: SM; K 33; SSK; PM; k 34; PM; K2tog; K 33; SM; K to end of round. Repeat back dart decreases every 6th round 4 more times (10 sts in total decreased). Once you’ve made all 5 back dart increases, knit the 10 more rounds straight stockinette. Begin back dart increases as follows: SM; K to first back dart maker; M1R; SM; K 34; SM; M1L; knit to end of round. Repeat back dart increases every 9th round 4 more times (10 sts in total increased). Remove back dart markers as no more back shaping is required. Front Gathers The front gather is made when the front of the bodice measures 13 ½ inches, in the round after right after the final back dart increases have been completed. There should be 94 stitches on the back and 118 stitches on the front (212 sts total). At the beginning of the next round, K to the side marker that signals the beginning of the front of the body; K 47; PM; CDD (slip 2 sts as if to K; knit next stitch; pass 2 slipped stitches over this knit stitch); repeat 11 more times (24 stitches decreased); PM; knit to end of round. Use different colour stitch markers to indicate where the back shaping is to take place. There will now be equal number of stitches on front (94 sts) and back (94 sts) of bodice; 188 sts in total. Next round; knit to first front marker; SM; knit to next marker; P all stitches to next marker; SM; knit Page 2
to beginning of round. Repeat this round one more time. You should have two decorative rows of purl stitches sitting on top of front gather decrease stitches. Remove front gather markers and continue knitting until all waist increases have been completed and body measures approximately 17 ½ inches at side marker.
You are now ready to begin shaping the front and back of the upper bodice separately. At this point, you should have 98 sts on the front and 98 sts on the back.
Slip BOR marker; Knit 92 sts of back; BO next 12 sts; K 92 sts; SM; BO 12 sts. Place the 86 sts for the front onto scrap yarn, and prepare to begin knitting the back bodice.
UPPER BODY The upper front and back bodices are knit separately, and later joined at the shoulder seams using a three needle bind-off.
BACK BODICE Row 1 (RS): BO first two stitches; K to end of row. Row 2 (WS): BO first two stitches purl‐wise; P to end of row. Repeat these two rows once more (78 sts). Row 3 (RS) K 1; K2tog; K to 3 sts before end of row; SSK; K1 Row 4: P all stitches Repeat Rows 3 & 4 five more times (66 sts) Continue Knitting until back bodice is 6 ½ inches from underarm; ending on a WS row. Beginning with a RS row: K 18 sts; place these 18 sts for right shoulder on scrap yarn or stitch holder for later. BO 30 sts for back neck; K 18 sts; turn work. Neck and Left Shoulder Shaping: Row 1 (WS): Bind off 2 sts; P to end of row; Row 2 (RS): Knit all sts. Row 3 (WS): Bind off 2 sts; P to end of row; Row 4 (RS): Knit to last 3 sts; SSK; K1 Row 5 (WS): P all sts.
Shoulder shaping rows, beginning with on RS: K 8; using German short‐rows turn work; P to end turn; K 6; using German short‐rows turn work; P to end. Purling the legs from short‐rows as you go. Place these 13 shoulder stitches of the left shoulder on a stitch holder; break yarn. Neck and Right Shoulder Shaping: With RS facing place the 18 stitches for the right shoulder back on the needles; join yarn at RS; K 18 sts; turn work. Complete Rows 1‐4 as per left shoulder shaping. Row 5 (WS): P 8; using German short‐rows turn work; K to end turn; P 6; using German short‐rows turn work; K to end, knitting the legs from short‐ rows as you go. Place these 13 shoulder stitches of the left shoulder on a stitch holder; break yarn. FRONT BODICE Place 86 Front stitches from scrap yarn back onto your needles; join yarn with RS facing. Row 1 (RS): BO first two stitches; K to end of row. Row 2 (WS): BO first two stitches purl‐wise; P to end of row. Repeat Rows 1 & 2 once more (78 sts). Row 3 (RS) K 1; K2tog; K to 3 sts before end of row; SSK; K1. Row 4: P all stitches. Repeat Rows 3 & 4 five more times (66 sts) Knit until front is 5 ½ inches from decorative purl rows for front gathers (or, 2 inches from underarm); ending on a WS row; turn work. RS: K 26 sts; place these 26 sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder for left shoulder for working later. BO 14 sts; K remaining 26 sts. Front Neck and Right Shoulder Shaping: Row 1 (WS): P all stitches Row 2 (RS): BO 2 stitches; K to end of row. Repeat rows 1 & 2 two more times (20 sts). Next row (WS): P all stitches. Row 3 (RS): K 1; SSK; K to end or row. Row 4 (WS); P to end of row. Repeat rows 3 & 4 six more times (13 sts). Knit until Right shoulder is 7 ½ inches from underarm. Page 3
Use German short‐rows to shape shoulder: K 8; turn work; P all sts; Turn work; K 5; Turn work; P all stitches, making sure to P the stitch + leg together as you go. Keeping these 13 sts on the needle, place the 13 sts from back right shoulder on 2nd needle and with right sides facing, using a third needle, BO front and back right shoulders together using 3 needle BO. Front Neck and Left Shoulder Shaping: Transfer the 26 stitches from stitch holder to needles; join yarn at neck edge (RS). o Row 1 (RS): BO 2 stitches; K to end of row. o Row 2 (WS): P all stitches o Repeat rows 1 & 2 two more times (20 sts). o Row 3 (RS): K 1; K2tog; K to end or row. o Row 4 (WS); P to end of row. Repeat rows 3 & 4 six more times (13 sts). Continue until right shoulder is 7 ½ inches from underarm; ending on a RS row. Use German short‐rows to shape shoulder (WS): P 8; turn work; K all sts; Turn work; P 5; Turn work; K all stitches, making sure to knit the stitch + leg together as you go. Keeping these 13 sts on the needle, place the 13 sts from back left shoulder on 2nd needle and with right sides facing, using a third needle, BO front and back right shoulders together using 3 needle bind‐off.
SLEEVES I use magic loops when I knitting sleeves in-theround, but please feel free to use DPNs, or whatever method works best for you.
LEFT SLEEVE Beginning 5 sts from the left shoulder seam in the back bodice, and with RS facing, pick‐up and knit 10 stitches at a rate of 1:1 (5 sts in the back and 5 sts in the front); These 10 stitches form the top of the sleeve cap. You will now be picking up stitches along the left front. Pick up 24 stitches along the left front at a
rate of 1:2 (one sleeve stitch for every 2 left front stitches) until you reach the bound‐off stitches at the underarm. PM; pick‐up 6 stitches; PM for BOR (use a different colour marker): pick up stitches (these are picked up at a rate of 1:1); PM. Returning up the back bodice, pick up 24 stitches along the left back at a rate of 1:2 (one sleeve stitch for every 2 left front stitches) until you reach your starting point. You should now have 70 stitches on your needles. You will now begin the German short‐rows for the sleeves. o Row 1 (RS): Knit the first 10 stitches that you picked up; turn work; o Row 2 (WS): P 10 stitches; turn work. o Row3 (RS): Knit to “stitch + leg”, K them together, K1; turn work. o Row 4 (WS): P to “stitch + leg”, P them together; P1; turn work. Repeat rows 3 & 4 until you have wrapped and turned all 24 rows down the front and back opening and have reached the first marker at the back, 6 sts from the BOR marker; remove this marker; turn work. K to next marker; remove it; K to BOR marker; SM; and knit one more round. Make sure to knit the last two “stitches + legs” together as you encounter them; ending at the BOR marker. You are ready now to knit the sleeves. K 12 more rounds, ending 3 sts before BOR marker; SSK; K1; SM; K1 K2tog; knit to end of round. Repeat this decrease round every 9th round ten more times (48 sts). Continue knitting until sleeve is 1” shorter than your desired length. In my case, I knit until 17 ½ inches. Switch to 3.75 mm needles and complete 6 rounds of K1P1 ribbing. BO loosely in pattern. Break yarn. Weave in ends.
RIGHT SLEEVE Beginning 5 sts from the right shoulder seam in the front of the work, and with RS facing, pick‐up and knit 10 stitches at a rate of 1:1 (5 sts in the front and 5 sts in the back); These 10 stitches form the top of the sleeve cap.
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You will no ow be picking up stitches along the rightt back. Pick up 24 stitchess along the riight back at a a rate of 1:2 (one sleeve stitch s for everry 2 left frontt stitches) un ntil you reach h the bound‐o off stitches att the underarrm. PM; pick‐up p 6 stitches; PM P for BOR (u use a differentt colour markker): pick up sttitches (these are picked up p at a rate of 1:1); PM. Returning up u the front bodice, pick up u 24 stitchess along the right front att a rate of 1:2 (one sleeve e stitch for every 2 left fro ont stitches) u until you reach h your startin ng point. You should now have 70 stitches on yo our needles. You will no ow begin the German shortt‐rows for the e sleeves. o Row 1 (RS): Kn nit the first 10 0 stitches thatt ou picked up; t turn work; yo o Row 2 (WS): P 1 10 stitches; turrn work. + leg”, K them m o Row3 (RS): Kniit to “stitch + ogether, K1; tu urn work. to o Row 4 (WS): P P to “stitch + leg”, P them m ogether; P1; tu urn work. to Repeat row ws 3 & 4 unttil you have wrapped and d turned all 224 rows down the front and back opening g and have re eached the firrst marker at t the back, 6 stss from the BOR B marker; remove this marker; turn n work.
K K to next markker; remove itt; K to BOR marker; SM; an nd knit one m more round. M Make sure to kn nit the last tw wo “stitches + legs” toge ether as you encounter th hem; ending at the BOR marrker. Yo now to knit the sleeves. ou are ready n R epeat as for th he left sleeve..
NE ECK TRIM M You will now be picking up p stitches arround the neck kline and finis ishing the nec eck opening w with a few roun nds of K1P1 ri ribbing.
Using a 3.5 mm needle and d beginning aat the left U houlder seam m, pick up 34 stitches alon ng the left sh neeck edge; pickk up 12 stitche es along bound d‐off front neeck; pick up 332 stitches aro ound right fron nt edge to sh houlder seam;; pick up 14 sts along right b back neck; p ick up 26 alon ng bound‐off b back neck edg ge; pick up dge; PM. 144 sts along leftt back neck ed In n total, you have picked up 1 132 sts around d neck. K K1P1 ribbing forr 6 rounds. B ound off 7th ro ound in patterrn. Weavve in all loose ends.
W Wet block to the final
dime ensions. Enjoyy!
F FINAL DIIMENSION NS
© Black Cro ow Knits Page 5