THANK YOU LYNDA! Clothes by Lynda Bunne cheweyleathers.com
attention to detail and simplicity! In working with hundreds and hundreds of people, I am always seeing that “universal power� of the pencil skirt. Simple small details in fittimg the pencil skirt, give it power. and comfort... every time! The skirt details...
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balanced and secured at the waist across the stomach
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follows the shape of the curves of your hip line.
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Proportioned hemlines above or below the curvature of the leg
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Ease added where needed for movement
love the pencil skirt! The best way to start with fitting detail is to go back to your most basic pattern...one more time. Once your skirt is secure at just the right waist point and the upper hip is eased over the stomach...you can change the look to shorter, longer, or fuller, without ever changing the comfort of your favorite piece. Here’s How... Pencil skirts lay flat against the stomach because the darts and side seams shape the body. The shaping also gives a nice lift to the butt.
Keeping this in mind...here is the fitting sequence for skirts. •
start with the anchor at your most comfortable waist point
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shape the body to match your curves at the hip line adding darts over the curves in the front and back
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ease thighs, upper hip or stomach to accommodate curves
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check proportion, and skirt hem circumference
starting with the waist... •
Identify your most comfortable waist position to check your “Comfort Zone”. You can check this from the position of your sweat pants after you roll them down for comfort, or any other pants, or comfortable waisted clothes, that you might grab without thinking. Start your skirt at your most comfortable waist position whether it is above the waist ,below the waist, or spot on the waist.
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Pin the muslin to the dress form as the pattern was intended, according to your size; changes will be made from here.
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Shape the darts front and back
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Mark and pin the darts evenly to contour the curves of the upper hip line
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Ease fabric over any area that pulls
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Remove extra fabric from any area that gapes ; shaping always to the curves of your body on the dress form
things to remember... •
Ease can be placed at any curve; upper hip (or love handles), lower thigh, or back hip for “super curvy”.
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Press the ease carefully to smooth the fabric over the curve
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Curve the side seams to the middle of the leg; between the knee and top of leg.
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Use darts or elastic across the back of the skirt for added comfort.
assymetrical bodies...
follow the shape at the anchor, not the hemline... Once you address the anchor at the waist or upper hip positions your skirts and pants will move; always following the flow of your comfort zone. •
Start all alterations for assymetrical bodies at the anchor point, for movement and comfort.
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Ease fabric over curves at any point
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ADD, OR SUBTRACT, TO THE BACK SEAM AS NEEDED FOR THE UNEVEN SIDES. One side of the skirt will need more fabric; adjusted by adding extra fabric to one side at the back seam. Match side seams to side body on the dress form. Assymmetrical bodies might have different pressure points for movement, than the pattern allows for, but the adjustments are the same. KEEP THE GRAINLINES STRAIGHT. When fabric pulls across any area, you’ll feel the pressure or twist. By releasing the fabric of the pull, and replacing it with ease, the fabric will fall
naturally over the curve.
keep the grainlines straight... For every action there is a reaction. Design takes its own path when you focus on the grainline or go with a mistake. Whatever the curve, the ease or the adjustment, you cannot go wrong when you follow the grainline. I hope you enjoyed this! Please drop us a line at info@fabulousfit.com We would love to hear your challenges and comments! info@fabulousfit.com
Thanks so much, Jill & the Fabulous Fit Team Thanks again, Lynda Bunne, at chewyleathers.com for sharing your fabulous, timeless, clothes! All Rights Reserved © (thank you!)