f.a.d.
Spring 2010 Issue 3
h o r a c e m a n n
fashion/art/design
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a new WONDER LAND
Teen Vogue Lynn Yaeger Architecture Student Blogs
f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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welcome to issue 3! Welcome to Issue 3, the final issue of the 2009-2010 school year! We have had a tremendous first volume here at f.a.d., and looking back at our first issue published this past fall we love seeing the progress of this emerging magazine. Working on this past issue we realized just how far we have come as a group, and how fortunate we are to have been able to build a community around fashion, art, and design within the Horace Mann School. We would like to extend our endless thanks to the people who make this production possible, including the inde-fad-igable contributing staff and ever-supportive Horace Mann teachers and faculty. This 100% student-produced issue is a whopping 60 pages choc-filled with fashion editorials, interviews with industry professionals, student artwork, and more. Our focus for this issue initially held its base in Alice in Wonderland, but morphed into an appreciation of a new wonderland: the internet. As the professional publishing industry is “dying,” what with online magazines and e-readers like the iPad, f.a.d. works hard to keep its content fresh, memorable, and worth sending to print. While remaining true to publishing’s roots, we still work to embrace new media in all of its forms by maintaining the magazine’s strong online presence. You will not only find f.a.d. in print on HM’s magazine racks, but also online on social networking sites like Facebook, Twitter, and Issuu.com. The week of April 26th, 2010 f.a.d. is hosting Horace Mann’s inaugural Fashion Week including a student-produced fashion show on Monday, April 26th. In the spirit of the magazine, this whole production we call f.a.d. is a group effort and you too can become a part of the experience by joining us online or for HM Fashion Week. Sincerely, Zoe (11) and Alice (11) Co-editors in chief
covergirl
Zoe and Alice on location in New Rochelle during the “What a Fine Art” shoot (p.41). Photo by Nicole Dalessandro.
the making of a f.a.d. cover + Alice (11), Zoe (11), and Mr. Kim Do make a wooden box.
Frances (11) crawls into the 8.5 x 11” proportioned box and channels “Alice in Wonderland.”
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Alice Taranto (11) and Zoe Kestan (11) made a turquoise tulle dress with a beaded bodice, Daphne Taranto (11) customized a stripey leotard with false flowers, mask pin from Horace Mann costume shop, shoes stylist’s own. At the photoshoot, Nicole Dalessandro (11) does makeup, Angel Ortiz (12) does light design, Frances Ikwuazom (11) models, Alice Taranto (11) and Zoe Kestan (11) assist, and Daphne (11) phopotographs.
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Many thanks to Mr. Kim Do for help making the wooden box and to Ms. Karen Johnson for providing the Photography Studio to do our cover shoot. f.a.d. really appreciates your help!
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Zoe Kestan (11) + Alice Taranto (11) Co- Editors in Chief Daphne Taranto (11) Rachel Scheinfeld (10) Online Director Features Editor Sarah Sicular (11) Copy Editor
STAFF WRITERS Savannah Smith (9) Jazmine Goguen (11) Hallam Tuck (11) Anna Goldberg (10) Billie Kanfer (10) Lia Ehrlich (10) Vasilisa Sokolova (9) Emma Spector (11) Emma Garcia (9) Diana Rheinstein (9) Lauren Cantor (9) Rachel Hollander (11) Florence Ngala (9)
ShaKea Alston (9) Melissa Rodman Friedman (8) Anastasiya Moroz (9) Vivien Ikwuazom (9) Rachel Scheinfeld (10) Victoria Marlin (11) Justin Burris (11) Alex Powell (9) Diva Gattani (9) Yasmin Rawlins (11) Chloe Kling (11) Noah Margulis (9)
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS
Paige Burris (9) Emma Garcia (9) Lauren Cantor (9) Baci Weiler (10) Brooke Weiner (K) Jack Teitelbaum (4) Cameron Levy (4) Nicholas Moreira (1) Samantha Michel (11) Billie Kanfer (10)
EYE CANDY f.a.d. staff gets you your culture fix. p.4 PAGE TURNER Anna Goldberg and Billie Kanfer read on into the coffee table books hidden in HM’s Katz Library! p.5 VISUAL WONDERS catch up on the latest in TV character fashion and read up on some movie reviews. p.6-7
Chongi Wi (9) Megan Lu (11) Anne Schechner (11)
STAFF ARTISTS
in the issue
SUPER TRENDY we fill you in on fall 2010’s biggest trends from New York, Paris, Milan, and London. DESIGNER BIOS take a look into Elsa Shiaparelli, Ashish, Jeremy Scott, Gareth Pugh, and Dries Van Noten. p.10 BLOG LOVE Diana Rheinstein and Florence Ngala review the webs most prominent fashion blogs at the moment. PLUS! HM Student Blog reviews! p.12-13 STYLE, SIMPLIFIED ShaKeas Alston fills us in on a new trend: style-help sites. p.14
ODE TO COLLAGE Lauren Cantor, Emma Garcia, Diana Rheinstein and Paige Burris prove their love for print. p.8-9. MIDDLE MANN Style is not restricted to high school students only. Melissa Rodman Friedman(8) takes us to the world of HM Middle DIvision fashion. p.18 OBITUARIES f.a.d. reflects on the lives of Lee “Alexander” McQueen and Irving Penn. p. 20
Alex Powell (9) Justin Burris (11) Devon McMahon (11) Magica Darabundit (11) Nicole Dalessandro (11)
TALK TO ME Through to page 32, f.a.d. interviews various industry proffessionals including Julie Berman, Mark Indelicato, Spencer Gellman, Molly Hanna Carey, Lisa Salzer, Linda Fargo, Sally Singer, Rachel Roy, Casey Rosenblum and Amy Elfenbein, Kyle Camping, and Lynn Yeager. p.23
Faculty Advisor: Alicia Hines
PRINTS CHARMING Play around with hand printed tshirts and self-made clothes. Conceptualized by Daphne Taranto and Magica Darabundit. .p.36
WHAT A FINE ART Art History Dept. Head Avram Schlesinger gave us four works of art in which f.a.d. staff worked to express in this editorial. Conceptualized by Zoe Kestan. p.40 CLOWNING AROUND Nicole Dalessandro and Daphne Taranto get inspired by circus characters for this spring’s makeup editorial. p.48 TEENY BOPPERS Check out what f.a.d. has to say about their trip to the Teen Vogue offices! p.52 IN WONDERLAND HM Students pay tribute to the psychadelic story and report on others who have, too! p.54 DIY Noah Margulis (9) gives us a quick pillow case skirt tutorial. p.55
f.a.d. staff
From top left: Lauren (9), Diana (9), Anastasiya (9), Anna (10), Daphne (11), Anne (11), Vivien (9), Emma (11). From middle left: Magica (11), Lia (10), Billie (10), Arlinda (11), Suman (11), Megan (11), Yasmin (11), Emma (9). From bottom left: Justin (11), Alex (11), Hallam (11), Zoe (11), Alice (11), Noah (9)
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eye candy culture watch
shopping: beacon’s closet
Beacon’s Closet, a Williamsburg thrift store, has become a popular destination for shoppers seeking unique and affordable clothing. The store, located on 88 North 11th Street, offers a vast selection of vintage clothing and accessories hand-picked by the store’s buyers. The clothing, arranged in racks according to color, presents a varied mix of both designer items and eclectic, unusual brands and styles. In addition to used clothing, the store sells its own brand of original jewelry and other accessories, as well as home decorations and shoes. Located near the Bedford Avenue L Train, Beacon’s Closet is housed in an expansive warehouse encompassing an entire floor of both men’s and women’s clothing. The store offers a varied mix of affordable clothing that is appealing to buyers of any budget or style. - JAZMINE GOGUEN (11)
true blue
The exhibit “American Beauty” at the Museum at FIT traces the path of American dress making beginning from the 1930’s to present day. In addition to displaying about 90 gorgeous gowns, the exhibit discusses the components of American fashion, and how the functionality is the key element with long and lean shapes. The exhibit includes garments from well-known designers such as Claire McCardell, Halston, and Charles James. The exhibit continually focuses on how innovation and aesthetics have shaped American dressmaking. It also disscusses how while dressmaking and tailoring previously were two entirely separate things, Americans began to combine the ideas to make a hybrid of the two. There is an entire section devoted to embellishment and embroidery, displaying gowns covered in sequins, or garments that
had that its fabric manipulated to make unique, beautiful shapes. The exhibit also analyzes the importance of geometric shapes in dressmaking. For example, the exhibit talks about how the rectangle has been the most important shape in traditional dressmaking, for it adjusts to the long shape of humans; however while the square is much less commonly used by designers due to lack of congruency. The showcase’s prize jewel (and the dress on which the exhibit is based), the American Beauty Rose evening gown designed by Halston, which displays a circular geometric shape. This spectacular gown is a must-see at the exhibit; it is stands out among the other stunning evening gowns that stand right beside it. The exhibit finishes off by examining how very few designers today hand-make their garments, or even have the patched together in the USA. In all, the “American Beauty” exhibit at the Museum at FIT showcased a wonderful collection of magnificent gowns. -SAVANNAH SMITH (9)
quicktake: rodarte
by ZOE KESTAN (11) On view for a mere two and half weeks, the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte set up a small exhibition at Smithsonian CooperHewitt this past March. The show, a collec-
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tion of looks from past seasons, was a tribute the Rodarte house through exhibiting the various creative and ingenious techniques in the Mulleavys’ work. The setup of the exhibit was somewhat of an evolution- starting from their ballerina-like Fall 2008 looks through their sets of structured, marbled Fall 2009 pieces, all the way into their recent Spring 2010 collection portraying that misty tribal warrior in all of us. Even the set for the show was a work of art; destroyed and decaying walls and floorboards illuminated the pieces (not to mention the beautiful Christian Louboutin and Nicholas Kirkwood heels laying in the rubble!)
design man: shepard fairey
Shepard Fairey has silently created one of the most influential graphic design empires on the planet, whether plastering stop signs all over Manhattan with his Obey project, or controversially using an Associated Press portrait picture of President Obama as a campaign poster. The Hope poster, which has been embroiled in a copyright debacle, symbolizes a bold re-imagining of what a campaign poster can be. This influencial illustrator has taken street art to a new level. -HALLAM TUCK (11)
While most of us rely on caffeine to get us through our hectic schedules, forget the coffee, coffee table books are far more interesting than the drinks they sit beside them. The huge Art To Wear tome by Julie Dale offers page after page of pre 90’s pieces we would be more likely to see in a museum than on the street. Each designer is allowed a spread of their works and a small biography. It is an intriguing blend, for as design is a visual art, we only see what is on the outside. However we are allowed a more introspective view; we are able to understand the designer’s intended message. While some pieces might never be considered wearable, such as Nicki Edson’s screaming Medusa mask, the piece is catching nonetheless. As New Yorkers we might feel a special kinship with Joan Steiner’s Brooklyn Bridge Cape, a cape that actually features a model of the bridge across its shoulders. The book guides us through the nontraditional nature of design, an interesting tour to experience. -ANNA GOLDBERG (10)
page turner
Hey guess what! Horace Mann’s very own Katz Library is home to some incredible fashion-themed coffee table books. Anna Goldberg (10) and Billie Kanfer (10) check it out.
In Vogue discusses Vogue Magazine’s ability to pinpoint fashion and to artistically depict it in many photos and photo-shoots. Fashion has evolved over the years, starting with the 1900s Another book sitting in HM’s library features historical drawings depicting the elegant dresses fashion that we can actually go and hats that became famous in that see in New York’s own Metera. The movement in all the photos ropolitan Museum of Art. The shows Vogue’s consistency in getting the book, Haute Couture, features everything from a milkmaid right “shot.” If the fashion itself was not Yves Saint Laurent ensemble enough, the scenery is impeccable and to Chanel’s “little black dress;” truly shows the importance and elegance a wide survey. An interesting of fashion. Something that struck me Pierre Cardin plum coat from was the 2003 edition of Vogue in which 1968 reveals to us one of the first designers that played with they promoted the Alice In Wonderland futuristic geometry. Another theme. In one picture Alice in an updated playful dress is seen from Yves dress was “falling” while in the other she Saint Laurent, the look copying was portrayed as a gigantic girl stuck in Piet Mondrian’s color blocking style. The reader is indulged a small room. The photo-shoot continued with behind the scenes bits and and forest scenery was the main point pieces of information, such as in the other three. Alice (the model) and the tense relationship between three other designers including Marc archrivals Chanel and Elsa Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld and Jean Paul Shiaparelli. While some pieces might be a little too conservative Gaultier acting as other characters from for our twenty-first century eyes, the book. The magnificent Vogue picthe book offers a valuable insight tures fill the rest of the pages, impressing into couture of the past. everyone with their attention to the details -AG (10) of fashion and art. -BILLIE KANFER(10)
Fashion: A History from the 18th to 20th Century is a book showing the transition from flowing dresses and corsets to more fitted and modern dress. I like the appreciation to the art of fashion. Many pages are devoted to showing how dresses are more than just clothing, they are art. A dress made out of wood by Yohji Yamamoto is just one of the many designs that impresses all. Another famous dress by anonymous is the “Souper Dress” paper dress that has Cambell’s soup labels all over. From famous names such as Prada to anonymous designers the pages show that each era has its own meaning. In the middle of the book the 1960’s arise and a few pages display the “hippie” attire. Another design that struck me was a page showing shoe art. Two pairs of shoes made out of meat, the other two out of candy, once again showing the incorporation of art into the fashion world. From Christmas sweaters to evening gowns this book covers all types of fashions. It kindly pays respects to each era and shows the journey of fashion through the 18th, 19th and 20th century. -BK (10)
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visual won
The Devil Wears Prada vs. Funny Face by Lia Erlich (10)
The Devil Wears Prada and Funny Face have proved themselves to be two of the most iconic fashion films made due to their outstanding use of style and portrayal of the industry during their times of release. Funny Face, 1957, and the Devil Wears Prada, 2006, tell similar stories of young women, Jo and Andy, both of whom areconsidered to be academically focused and “unfashionable” who undergo a transformation into the ultimate “fashionistas” to fit their new roles as a supermodel and an assistant to an editor in chief. Both women are nurtured under the wings’ of editors in chief of the most highly regarded magazines, the fictional versions of Vogue magazine. There is no doubting that clothing is the backbone of both movies, playing a more significant role than the characters themselves. The women’s drastic makeovers have been looked at as a stylistic epitome of high fashion for both their generations. Jo makes her debut as a model in a white satin gown with a pink shawl, one out of the many famed outfits from the movie. Andy’s clearly more modern outfit, consisted of big black leather Chanel boots and sweater blazer with gold chains. The two outfits portray the growth of style from the two time periods. Jo’s red satin gown she wears in a photo shoot is often viewed as one of the most celebrated gowns in film history and the Devil Wears Prada script drops names of labels including Jimmy Choo, Valentino, and Hermes, major players in the current world of clothing. A main parallel often drawn is the effect fashion has on personality. In both movies, “fashionable” people are classified as egotistical, uncaring, and disinterested in academia. “We’re a cold lot, totally lacking in sentiment, how could you be in love?” says Funny Face’s editor in chief. Although many people off-screen have come to the conclusion that clothing is a representation of you and your character, its been said that the glamour and superficial aspects have come to mean that people involved in high fashion, are part of an egotistical and uneducated stereotype unable to look deeper than physical attributes. Does the clothing you wear determine your personality, or does your personality determine your wardrobe? In the end, for both scenarios, their choice in dress have changed to fit their surrounding atmospheres, but both women remain true to themselves, compassionate, intelligent, ambitious, women, proving the unfortunate stereotype to not always be the case. They morphed themselves to be women worthy of looking up to in both fashion and their original qualities or as Funny Face would call it, the “Quality Woman”.
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Valentino: The Last Emperor
Valentino: The Last Emperor is a documentary directed by Matt Tyrnauer that follows the last year of Valentino’s brilliant career. “I love beauty. It’s not my fault,” says Valentino. This phrase is enough to sum up his vision – the designer’s goal is to make women look and feel beautiful. This film follows Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti, his friend and partner for forty-five years, through the preparation for Valentino’s forty-fifth anniversary as a designer. The two friends often struggle – Valentino can be extremely stubborn, although his unwillingness to back down is what makes for a strong vision. Throughout the preparation for the anniversary, the company is in a state of difficulty – Valentino’s empire is no longer just about fashion. Mateo Marzotto, the owner of Valentino, is certain that the company requires change. Business takes the forefront and Marzotto feels more money needs to be made. Valentino, however, stays true to his work ethic. Throughout the movie, there is an element of suspense – Will Valentino retire? Every reporter asks this question, but the designer just shrugs his shoulders with a simple “We’ll see.” The forty-fifth anniversary gala is truly astounding – it embraces everything Valentino has ever created from day one to the day of the celebration. The final runway show is emotional; the viewer can’t help having incredible admiration for the man who created so many beautiful and timeless things. This film truly celebrates all that is Valentino and his forty-five years of creation. Anyone who is interested in fashion will find this movie a must-see. After watching the film, there is no doubt – Valentino truly is the Last Emperor. -VASILISA SOKOLOVA (9)
nders Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton
“I don’t have separation between life and work,” says Marc Jacobs in Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton, a documentary by Loïc Prigent. The film follows Jacobs through his creative process – from getting his inspiration, to sending a look down the runway. It’s a surprise such a personal documentary was even possible – Jacobs is known to deny interviewers insight into his behind-thescenes process. The opening scene is Marc Jacobs in a pigeon costume at his own Venice Carnival-themed holiday party. From the start, he is seen as a creative and innovative mind – a thought that is apparent throughout the film. Marc Jacobs comes across as a very energetic and talented person. With an everpresent cigarette in his mouth, and clad in an orange Reese’s peanutbutter-cup t-shirt, Jacobs appears personable and easy to like. We follow him on his constant journey from his own New York design workshop to the Louis Vuitton studio where he is the Creative Director. The film creates an interesting parallel between the two parts of the designer’s life –Marc Jacobs, his own label, and Louis Vuitton, the fashion empire. After watching this documentary, one can certainly say that he or she has an understanding of how Marc Jacobs balances the two simultaneous projects, since the director does a spectacular job in capturing the essence of the designer’s entire world. This documentary is a must-see for anyone who is interested in fashion, as it reveals the personal side of the designer genius, Marc Jacobs.
tre nd bes y tv cha t dre : tod rac sse ay’s ter d s 1. LILY ALDRIN (How I Met Your Mother) Perennially suit-clad Barney might spring to mind as How I Met Your Mother’s most stylish character, but the more subtly fashionable Lily gives him a run for his money with her casual yet pulled-together ensembles. Kindergarten teacher Lily’s oft-joked about compulsive shopping habit pushes her toward a mix of colorful patterns, printed minidresses and sleek boots by designers like Nanette Lepore and Marc Jacobs.
2. BLAIR WALDORF (Gossip Girl) Putting a character from Gossip Girl on a list of best-dressed television characters feels a little like putting the Beatles on a list of influential British bands- so obvious it’s almost redundant, but requires a mention for that very reason. On a show known for its fashion, Blair Waldorf stands out as reigning style queen; her ever-=resent headbands, patterned tights and feminine bow-and-lace accents are interspersed with dramatic, colorful pieces by high-end designers to create a unique style that’s launched a thousand imitations. 3. JOAN HOLLOWAY (Mad Men) Joan Holloway’s fitted, monochromatic dresses and skirt/blouse combos might sound dull on paper, but onscreen they bring a fiery flash of color and life into the gray, visually dreary background of Sterling Cooper (the fictional advertising agency in which Mad Men is set).
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4. MARC ST. JAMES (Ugly Betty) Marc St. James’ quirky accessories, contrasting patterns and well-cut, vividly colored suits prove that men’s clothes don’t have to be plain and simple to be fashionable.
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5. JANE SEYMOUR (The Tudors) The Tudors costume designer Joan Bergin’s aim to present “a deconstructed Tudor…for a contemporary audience” is particularly visible in Jane Seymour’s costumes; Seymour’s sumptuous furs, elaborate jewels and richly embroidered gowns highlight the decadence of King Henry VIII’s court. -EMMA SPECTOR (11)
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collage by EMMA GARCIA (9)
The Ode to Print is a collection of collages we have created to express how print magazines have affected us and how they cannot be replicated. Using these collages we are showing appreciation for print magazines in the world of fashion. Our society is becoming more and more technology based, so we wanted to show the influence that cannot be substituted by print fashion, and arts. collage by PAIGE BURRIS (9) We took several cut outs from different magazines such as Vogue, Teen Vogue, Nylon, Bazaar, and FASHION. We FAD’s Lauren Cantor (9), Emma Garcia (9), Diana Rheinhave created four colstein (9), and Paige Burris (9) show us why old-school lages representing the dicollages and prints shouldn’t go extinct minishing role print magaHorace Mann School zines have in our lives. 8
ode to collage
collage by LAUREN CANTOR (9)
collage by DIANA RHEINSTEIN (9) EMMA (9): I used magazines, newspapers, a water bottle, and rubber glue to make this collage. The goal of using the bottle was to show clearly the progression. With a bottle the top is clear, unlike paper. Having a clear top is necessary to understanding my piece. If you break the images into sections, it shows the development of the print industry. At the bottom, the purple represents royalty, since originally nobles were the only literate people. The black and white gems emphasize this, but they also show that print was primarily only black and white. The next phase is that of growth, represented by the flowers. The arrangement of color shows how print became much more diverse. In this area the eyes symbolize that print reached more people and a mouth that shows that books are now printed into the local language. Then suddenly, the growth stops and an iPhone is present to show that technology has brought into question the fate of print. Although print’s extinction is inevitable, we are not sure when it will totally die off. Therefore, further information cannot be displayed and a question mark is left in place to demonstrate the unknown.
LAUREN (9): I used several advertising cut outs from Teen Vogue Magazine to show how technology cannot represent the same image and influence fashion lover’s lives the same way classic magazines have. I created a body from different advertisements and articles and tried to show how the industry “Will Miss Me,” being the unchangeable print magazine.
DIANA (9): I used covers from an art magazine entitled Print that is enriched with beautiful, meticulous artwork and fashion spreads that can be found only in Print. I used the logos of various fashion magazines such as Vogue, Teen Vogue, W Magazine, Bazaar, Marie Claire, and Allure demonstrating the irrevocable intelligence that is not found by technology. Finally I photocopied an old Vogue cover as my background that exhibits the timeless beauty and honorable fashion design only discovered in something tangible, not by a computer.
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catch up! designer bios ELSA SCHIAPARELLI
Elsa Schiaparelli (18901973) was an innovative designer who provided the inspiration and precedent for much of the modern fashion industry. Working in the years between the two World Wars, Schiaparelli’s work drew from the work of Surrealist artists and her own creative vision; she is responsible for the creation of knitwear patterns, brightly-colored and visible zippers, unusual buttons, wrap dresses and the wedge. Though she conceived many of the staple items of the modern fashion industry, she was also known for her experimental “lobster dress,” lamb cutlet and shoe hats – a result of her collaboration with Surrealist artist Salvador Dali. Schiaparelli was also the first designer to conceive of the runway show as it is presented today, with the use of art, music, and tall, thin models. Her innovations shaped the fashion industry in profound ways and provided an inspiration to the designers who came after her. -JG (11)
create a simultaneously playful and glamorous vision. Through the use of lively, original patterns and pop culture references, Gupta’s designs display a keen “sense of humor” ASHISH and eye for dramatic efAshish Gupta is an up- fect. Gupta has expressed and-coming designer a penchant for “sequins, who has received critical glamour, sportswear, and acclaim in London and more sequins” in his work; abroad. Gupta draws unsurprisingly, he has prohis inspirations from vided inventive designs for friends, cinema, and the Sarah Jessica Parker on city of London, England, Sex and the City. “Summer generating a rich array vacations, holiday romance of cultural associations and faraway places” proborne of these influvide the inspiration for his ences. His designs mix Spring/Summer 2010 line. Horace School shocking hues and Mann 10 -JAZMINE GOGUEN (11) quirky graphic prints to
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Born to a family of garment makers and tailors, fashion has been flowing through the blood of Belgian designer Dries Van Noten since birth. After graduating form the Antwerp
JEREMY SCOTT
Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1980, Van Noten embarked on his foray into the fashion industry and in 1986 debuted his first menswear collection in London. The collection was exhibited alongside the collections of other members of the “Antwerp Six,” a group comprised of Van Noten’s fellow Academy graduates including Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene and Marina Yee. Van Noten’s line was so superbly received that Barneys New York immediately picked the line up. On the coattails of his big-break with Barneys, the rising
Jeremy Scott is a designer noted for his artistic and conceptual designs; his wildly original work represents the cutting edge of the fashion world. Scott is known for his use of pop cultural references, including fast food and Mickey Mouse, in his designs. Though his collections vary considerably with each season, his work maintains the witty originality and playful sophistication that has made him a widely renowned figure in the fashion industry. JEREMY, OH, MY: His work is popular with numerous celebri- Left: A look from ties, including Agyness Scott’s “Happy Dean, Lady Gaga, and Daze” Collection resembling a M.I.A.; Scott was notably jukebox. Below: responsible for Britney Kelly Osborne Spears’ stewardess sports a number costume in the music from Scott’s SS10 video for “Toxic.” Scott collection at the also designs a collection designer’s Fall for Adidas and a line of 2010 Show back in February. bags for Longchamp. -JG(11)
talent launched his own shop in Antwerp in 1989 and then went on to show his men’s and womenswear collections in Paris. Today, the Van Noten Empire boasts over five hundred stores worldwide. The designer, who has been described by the New York Times as “one of fashion’s most cerebral designers,” has also acquired a loyal following of admirers, the likes of which include Jennifer Aniston, Cate Blanchett, Nicole Kidman and Rihanna. Perhaps the capstone of Van Noten’s career came in 2008 when he was honored with the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s esteemed International Award. - RACHEL HOLLANDER (11)
shopping
a few hours in.. THE EAST VILLAGE by
Vintage:Angela’s Vintage Boutique: 330 E 11th St. between 1st and 2nd Aves. 212-475-1571. Check here for serious vintage. Enter the allwhite interior and look forward to sifting. You’ll find pricier items ($200 and up vintage tops and suits) and costume jewelry, as well as shoes (which can be around $30). Note—be sweet and you may bargain with her.
GARETH PUGH
New and Vintage: Circa Now: 238 E 6th St. between 2nd and 3rd Aves. 212254-2555. www. circanownyc.com. The clothes in this terrific store, while both vintage and new, all look brand new. The white floor and red, old ceiling frame the central sofa and back wall (which has mini sliding glass doors revealing vintage shoes, accessories and Minnetonka moc booties). Find Blank jeans, vintage prom dresses (á la Betty Suarez) and sweaters, Sophomore clothing and old jean jackets.
Alice Taranto
New: Urban Outfitters: 162 2nd Ave at 10th St. 212-3751277. www.urbanoutfitters.com. Many already know and love Urban Outfitters (aka “Urban”), but in case you don’t here’s the low-down: Most items in this interesting, edgier chain store are under or around $100 and almost everything is on the extensive website (which also has free, downloadable play lists and a blog!). Great finds include graphic tee shirts, fun shoes and lots of accessories. If you have time definitely stop in!
Gareth Pugh is a British designer noted for his artistic and cuttingedge designs. Since the start of his career at a young age, Pugh has received support from distinguished mem- edged, futuristic debers of the fashsigns in shades of gray ion industry and and black. -JG (11) critical acclaim for his outrageous and original style. Pugh utilizes materials like Plexiglas, balloons, foam footballs and synthetic hair to create designs of exaggerated shape and style. His bold and unusual designs have attracted the attention of numerous celebrities, like Beyonce and Lady Gaga, who have worn his designs to high-profile events. Though Pugh’s early designs were extremely experimental, his latest collections have contained more wearable items; he was motivated to alter his style due to a lack of commercial success. His Spring 2010 ready-to-wear line contained hard-
Vintage: O Mistress Mine: 320 East 11th St. between 1st and 2nd Aves. 212-598-4327. www.omistressmine. com. Enter this hardcore vintage store (which smells like an old closet) and sift through racks of clothes and piles of jewelry to come across great vintage finds! The store has hats, jewelry, clothes, shoes and more. Be sure to check the extra fun Hats wall (($45-200).
Resale and Vintage/Gallery: Cadillac’s Castle: 333 E 9th St. between 1st and 2nd Aves. 212475-0406. Check here for fabulous secondhand and vintage finds. Find lower than half price Marc Jacobs and Marni shoes, vintage Oscar de la Renta and quarter price trendy sweaters. Look through two scarf buckets for fun silky prints. One wall is the gallery with paintings and photographs. Note—look for Cadillac, the big black dog hiding under the store’s front desk.
Snack: Pommes Frites: 123 2nd Ave. between 7th street and St. Marks Pl. 212674-1234. www.pommesfrites.ws. After lots of shops and walking around, you’re tired! Pick up a snack of “Authentic Belgian fries made from freshly cut potatoes, twice-fried to golden perfection, and topped with your favorite sauce.” Fries range from a regular ($4.50) to a double size ($7.75), with free sauces and an additional menu of 25 $1 each sauces to add to your fried concoction. “Antique & Vintage Eyewear & Clothing, Optical Oddities”: Fabulous Fanny’s: 335 E 9th St. between 1st and 2nd Aves. 212-533-0637. www.fabulousfannys.com. Not just because I have glasses, but you really need to check out this store! (Also check the extensively catalogued website.) Besides a side store of fun vintage hats and belts, find vintage, foldable and new, vintage-inspired glasses (around $160). What would you expect from a place whose logo is: “If you have to wear them, make it fun…”? New: PinkyOtto: 307 E 9th St. between 1st and 2nd Aves. 212-533-4028. www.pinkyotto.com. This cramped but cheery all-white store has adorable tulip skirts (around $90), tweed and lace dresses (around $150) and pea coats (around $280) lining the walls. Find thick scarves, hair clips, wrap belts and fun accessories towards the back. A must-go!
f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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web wonder
blog roll
SNAPSHOT From left: an image from Sea of Shoes’ Jane Aldridge,Garance Dore herself, and Style Rookie’s Tavi Gevinson
f.a.d. reviews four big time fashion blogs you need to know about.
SEA OF SHOES http://www.seaofshoes.com
Sea of Shoes is one of the most successful blogs to date, generating millions of committed followers. Jane Aldridge and her mom work as a team to produce a style that is so idiosyncratic, it seems magical. Jane a senior in high school has a love for “bug jewelry” and vintage which embodies her uniqueness shown throughout her blog. The diverse, unrivaled clothing she wears, inspires covetous feelings among fans. Her successful career as a model (she has shot for French Vogue and Teen Vogue), and her mother’s career as a talented photographer influence and improve this blog. Jane attends a school where a uniform is required therefore she says “style is personal. I don’t get a chance to express myself at school so at home I must exercise my right to fashion freedom thoroughly” Jane does this to full extent, she has even designed a line of shoes for Urban Outfitters that came out last summer. Jane Aldridge makes fashion have a presence and truly has inspired what we wear today.
GARANCE DORE http://www.garancedore.fr/
This blog, born within the fashion capital of the world, captures the French devotion to style. Garance Dore ( the name of the blog as well) truly exemplifies Parisian style. She has an older sophisticated opinion on fashion, but is able to maintain a youthful taste. A photographer and journalist, she has worked for many fashion magazines like Elle and French Vogue slowly gaining fame and attention. She frequently updates her blog with videos entitled “From the Front Row…” showing followers what it’s like to be at an elite French high fashion show. She gives her fans a chance to respond to her posts creating a more personal interaction, even from 6,000 miles away. Garance Dore has rightfully earned her spot in the Bloggers Hall Of Fame.
CHILDHOOD FLAMES http://www.childhoodflames.blogspot.com/
STYLE ROOKIE http://www.tavi-thenewgirlintown.blogspot.com
Thirteen going on Thirty, those might be just the write words to describe Tavi Gevinson, the Style Rookie. Younger than most of us she’s already built a name for herself in the fashion world and is the youngest blogger that you’ll see at the high-end fashion shows amongst well, older people. What makes her stand out most is probably the raw edgy attitude you get from her writing and the way that she cleverly ties in her everyday life experiences to her favorite aspects of fashion. She’s gained lots of attention and has been featured in Teen Vogue, POP, and Interview and became Harper’s Bazaar’s youngest contributor ever. So check out her blog and think about how you wish your life had been this great when you were thirteen.
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-DIANA RHEINSTEIN (9) and FLORENCE NGALA (9)
childhood flames
Camille’s unique blog Childhood Flames, illustrates her knowledge of pairing, her eye for tasteful, simple high fashion, and a knack for recognizing flattering silhouette, all of which demonstrate her eminence in fashion blogging (even on a humble budget). Still a student in Portland OR, Camille explains “my outfits are just a variation of something I previously wore…My style is basic.” Her blog has caught the eye of many fashion connoisseurs, even initiating an interview with Teen Vogue. Childhood Flames is wearable, causing the “everyday fashionista” to be inspired by her live stream updates of current outfits. This blog’s layout is simple enough to make it seem effortless, attracting a multitude of religious followers.
drawing by Baci Weiler (10)
wtfloflo?
buisness man
Justin Burris (11)spends his blogging time at three different sites: Nidzumi, The Temporist, and his own, JustinBurris.com. He first got into bloggin when he began worked at Curbed, a New York and LA- based realestate site, last February. “I’ve always been extremely interested in architecture,” he said, “so I figured I’d try my hand at creating some of it. That’s where justinburris.com takes its place.” At Nidzumi, a website that posts everything and anything about video games – reviews, previews, features- Burris is the site’s buisness manager. According to the website, the clever name means “loading” in Japanese. As Burris said, “I get advertisers, build traffic, hire people, fire people. All the fun stuff.” In addition, “I also place article quotas and manage SEO (Search Engine Optimization) content. His second site, The Temporist, was started by Burris himself towards his interest in a topic that he and his team claim everyone is interested in: the future. Team members include Mathew Zeitler (11), Meg Kramer, and “Roni of brooklynposh.com”; each contribute to the blog with “anything futuristic- architecture, design, technology, you name it.” In his third role on the world wide web, Justin has his own tumblr blog known appropriately as justinburris.com. “I use it to post designs I’ve made about once or twice a month using SketchUp.” Never Heard of it? “Google it!” he says, “It’s the simplest thing!” Be sure to check out all three of Justin’s sites at: http://www.nidzumi.com/ http://justinburris.com/ http://temporist.com/ -ZOE KESTAN AND DAPHNE TARANTO (11)
music fix
On her wall in her room, Florence (9) has a collage of cutouts from magazine, which she named “The Unreported Party.” This came as inspiration for her when naming her blog that she created in January of 2010. Although she has onlya few followers, Florence “thought it would be cool to kind of design your own online journal.” Other than creating it just out of boredom, Florence said that her “love for swag” and her broth-
web wonder
NEW WAVE: HM BLOGGING!
er’s blog inspired her to create her own. She posts about fashion, magazines, and any random adventures she goes on. Florence said what she likes most about having a blog “is the freedom to say whatever I want and just design and format it the way I want it to look.” You can see her blog at wtfloflo.blogspot.com. -RACHEL SCHEINFELD (10)
Hannah Jun (10)’s music blog, the one which she’s “most proud of”, A Song A Day, gives you just that. “ I pick one song everyday, basically just what I think people should be listening to. Sometimes people know the songs, sometimes they don’t; I’m not really music savvy, I just pick what I like.” Not only will you be granted one whole song each day by Hannah, but also once a week she chooses an artist of her liking as well. All through tumblr, the blog consists of youtube links, song lists, and various little blurbs by Hannah. “The great thing about tumblr is that it makes creating a blog really easy and accessible,” she says. “I’m able to make the blog how I like it, without knowing anything about web design.” When it comes to Hannah and her music, she says there should definitely be a good balance between the lyrics and beat. “I’m also a big favorite of movie-song pairs; you know, the songs that stick with you through the entire movie. I then find myself having to look them up afterwards.” If you’re in need of a daily music fix, go over to Hannah’s blog at http://keepingthedoctoraway.tumblr.com - DAPHNE TARANTO AND ZOE KESTAN (11)
live poet
Allison Bienenstock (11) is a writer. Her blog, Allie.Kate, has gone through its stages, but its become nothing short of extraordinary. Originally called “Trauma Room”, Bienenstock wrote about celebrities and gossip in a very “Perez Hilton” sort-of way. “It started as an assignment for a writing class I took two years ago. But once the program ended, I found myself tired of stalking celebrities- so I left it alone.” Not to worry. Last October, Allie’s writing teacher got in touch with her and asked her if she’d been writing since the course. “I told him I had, but that I hadn’t been sharing it with anyone. He then told me that my writing would mean a lot more if it made other people feel something, which was advice I really took to heart.” From then on, Allie has been posting prose and poetry in some form every single day. “My favorite part about the whole thing is that I have strangers following my blog and commenting on my posts. I have 42 followers right now, 40 of whom I’ve never met, “ she said. “It’s an indescribable feeling when someone tells you that you’ve impacted your life, even if its only in a very small way.” Since the blog’s revamp, Allies received numerous awards from fellow bloggers and has even had a few of her poems published on teenink.com. When asked about the content of her work, she said, “I write about anything from boys to, to milanos, to sharpie markers. I wouldn’t say that my writing is anything like what we study in school... I don’t even know if you can really call any of it poetry. It’s mostly me writing words in the exact way they pop into my head. Every piece I post is also at least a month old- I want it to be out of context. I want my readers to take in the meaning of each piece and apply it to themselves.” Now that’s what I call pure poetry. Be sure to check it out at http://alliekate.blogspot.com f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design 13 -ZOE KESTAN (11)
spring 2010
web wonder
GET ONLINE OR GET IN LINE: At MyShape. com, build a custom virtual wardrobe. Then, buy all your recommended products. At theweatherstylist. com, type in your zip code and get a wardrobe forecast for the week!
style, simplified Recently, a crop of websites have emerged ready and able to solve style problems.
You’ve all heard the body shapes rectangle, pear, apple, and hourglass. What about shapes M, Y, S, H, A, P, or E? These letters spell out the name of My Shape, a website designed to help women shop online more successfully. Instead of finding clothes based on size, My Shape uses measurements. When you sign up you are prompted to enter your measurements for everything from the basic bust, waist, and hip to the inseam. My Shape uses these measurements to calculate your shape. Then My Shape provides you with a summary describing the characteristics of your shape and the clothing that flatters you
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best. It allows you to select your style. Then when you log onto the site it provides you with clothing that flatters in your size, to match your shape. h t t p : / / w w w. myshape.com/ Covet. Ever envy the style of celebrities? Covet has the answer. The homepage of this website gives you two images and prompts you to select one with the question, which one is more your style? Covet continues this process using its ‘stylyzer’ for a few minutes as it classifies your style. Then it prompts you to
enter your sizes for shoes, tops, bottoms and dresses, using the 0, 1, 2, etc size chart but the S, M, L chart as well. It also allows you to select multiple sizes. Then it asks for your email address and how often you would like to receive emails. It sends you an email almost immediately giving you your “stylyzer” results. Covet has styles ranging from Couture Glam to Sporty Preppy and everything in between. Then Covet asks what you silhouettes, styles, colors, and prints you like to wear. Flats or platforms? Red or yellow? Both? Finally, Covet asks for the maximum price you would spend on an item in order to ensure the clothing you receive fits your budget and the brands you like. All of this information is easily editable. The greatest part of Covet is its slogan: Shop without sin. Why? Every item that covet sends to you is on sale. http://www. covet.com/ It’s 6 AM. You stare into your closet contemplating what to wear. You have no clue what the weather is like. Sound familiar? The Weather stylist easily solves this issue by providing not only the forecast by an outfit idea based on it. All you must provide is your zip code. Like any of them items it gives you? Click on one of them and The Weather Stylist provides you the details. The designer brand the item comes from, the name of the item, and the purchase information. Not a fan of the options? No problem. With a single mouse click it provides with a brand new option. Traveling? The Weather Stylist will tell you what to pack. The weather stylist also has an IPOD/IPHONE app available for $1.99 on iTunes. http://theweatherstylist.com/ -SHAKEA ALSTON (9)
FASHION WEEK FALL 2010
by Zoe Kestan (11)
This past February, designers turned back to their simple, basic roots of fashion. New York, London, Milan, and Paris gave us four weeks of investment-worthy, quality, timeless classics that bode well with this ongoing recession. This trend held true for the majority of designers; the most well recognized were Marc Jacobs, Chloe, Christian Dior, Jil Sander, and Dolce and Gabbana. However, there were a few moments during these four weeks that should definitely be noted: The New Woman One major thing that viewers noticed this past season was the variety in model “type” that seemed to come down the runways. At Louis Vuitton, Prada, and Giles Deacon, not only did we see the likes of Sasha Pivovarova, Karlie Kloss, and Abbey Lee Kershaw, but a set of women more known for their work at companies such as Victoria’s Secret walked as well. Adriana Lima, Laetitia Casta, Bar Refaeli, Karolina Kurkova, Alessandra Ambrosio, and many others graced these catwalks with their ultra-femme curves and big bosoms. These women, long cast out of the high-fashion system due to their bodies, were everywhere to be seen this season. Is this another way that designers are trying to broaden their audience? As seen in so many other shows, Fall 2010 gave us very accessible fashion. Here, these designers showed accessibility through fit as well as fashion. A real 270-Ton Iceberg? Chanel, one of the best known design houses in the world, has not let a crowd down for a very long time. The brand’s designer, Karl Lagerfeld, is known for his extravagant sets at the Chanel shows. In Fall 2008, Lagerfeld gave us a trueto-form Chanel Carousel. In Spring 2010, he put together a life size Chanel façade, equipped with a Rue Cambon for his girls to strut down as though they had been spending their day shopping at the house’s flagship boutique Spring 2010, Chanel girls walked around a full-fledged barn on hay and dirt in his country-inspired looks and clogs. This Past season, Lagerfeld imported a 270-ton iceberg to Paris from Scandinavia to create his arctic scene. Avoiding any Christlike references, his girls walked on water (the melted ice from their surroundings) in their various fur ensembles. The Last of McQueen One month after the designer’s tragic death, Alexander Mcqueen’s last creations were shown during Paris Fashion Week. At the time of his passing, the 16 looks were about 80% completed, yet his team worked from then on to rightfully show what McQueen had envisioned. For Fall 2010, McQueen turned back to his true passion for the craft of design; he steered clear from working with technology and the internet- something he tied so closely to his last collection. He drew inspiration from the Medieval Era and Early Byzantine, ordering textiles that took imagery from Christian paintings and creating brocades inspired by high-churches. With references to his past collections and incredible silhouettes and details, Lee’s team (led by his right hand, Sarah Burton) showed a collection that was without a doubt true McQueen.
(See his Obituary on p. 20)
f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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FASHION WEEK
warm and cozy:
CHANEL
fur makes a big entrance this season, so bundle up!
(see our article on the increase in fur use on p. 32!)
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
MARC JACOBS BALENCIAGA
old school:
vintage is at a new extreme! big skirts and feminine touches bring retro back this fall.
BURBERRY PRORSUM
knit picky:
layer it on with classic knits and cozy sweaters.
D&G
PRADA LOUIS VUITTON
MAX MARA FENDI PROENZA SCHOULER
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BALMAIN
Horace Mann School
FALL 2010 trend around the bend
by Zoe Kestan (11) / all photos courtesy of style.com
camel pack:
no more dark! bring out the nude tones in your outerwear this fall .
velvet touch:
soften up with lots of this warm and supple fabric!
ALEXANDER WANG BURBERRY PRORSUM
CHLOE
ALEXANDER WANG
STELLA MCCARTNEY
CHLOE
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
f.a.d.’s top fall 2010 accessories
PRADA
PRADA’S EYEBROW GLASSES
LOUIS VUITTON GILES
DEACON’S FURRY BAG
BALENCIAGA’S PROENZA SCHOULER MULTI-MEDIA HEELS f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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fashion
f.a.d. special: style beyond high school middle mann Melissa (8) investigates Horace Mann Middle Division fashion.
artist’s statement
Walking through Rose Hall you won’t find a bunch of runway models in avant-garde ensembles, but throughout the Middle Division a group of eighth graders has been taking an interest in expressing themselves through their clothes and developing unique styles. Some of my peers and classmates commented on their personal styles, shared their fashion tips for MD students and revealed their thoughts about what true style really is. Many of MD students appear to be stuck in a fashion rut—sticking to their skinny jeans, sweatshirts, and sweatpants, and although many follow these trends, some feel that these clothes are not for them. “I’ve noticed that a lot of people wear ‘Butter’ sweatshirts and skinny jeans everyday, and I think that must get really boring,” Johanna Holo (8) said. Julia Pretsfelder (8) also said that personally she does not wear or like the ‘Butter’ sweatshirts, but she noted, “everyone has them.” Pretsfelder noted that her “style really has evolved over the years.” “Many things that I used to like, I really don’t like anymore,” she said. “Now that I’m in
the eighth grade, I feel comfortable wearing things different from everyone else,” Pretsfelder said. “I want to take more risks with fashion, but there’s still only so much you can do without being weird or over the top,” she said. “You want to be creative with what you’re wearing,” Jessica Heller (8) said. “I like to express my mood through my clothes, and I like to wear outfits that make me happy,” she said. “I feel more aware and alert when I’m not wearing a sweatshirt and sweatpants.” “I don’t think a lot of people realize that you don’t have to be “out there” with your style to be fashionable,” Mia Landesberg (8) commented. “I think that it’s [fashion] a part of my life. You can dress a certain way, depending on how you’re feeling. The clothes you wear describe who you are as a person,” she said. “Lots of people look online and in magazines to follow the latest trends,” Landesberg said. “But it’s important to make your own trends and be individual. Personal style is something that can’t be followed; it should just come to you,” she added.
emerging artists
MIDDLE MEMORIES: Above: Jessica (8) hangs out in her closet. Left: Julia (8) snaps a shot of her skinnies and Converse. Below: A typical Butter brand sweatshirt. Photos via Rodman.
This past winter, HM’s Lower Division hosted its Arts Fair. Both the division’s dining cafeteria and gymnasium were set up as galleries displaying student work from grades K-5. Along with the cookies and fruit that were offered, the LD’s 3rd, 4th, and 5th grade chorus also performed as a special treat. Here, f.a.d. showcases a few works of art from our younger friends down the street.
From Left to Right: Artworks showcased at the LD Art Fair created by Brooke Weiner (K) , Jack Teitelbaum (4), Cameron Levy (4), Nicolas Moreira (1)
olfactory fashion
Students sniff to the bottom of perfume. Ever walk into a room, and encounter an amazing fragrance that you would just die to have? Well, most of us have had that happen. If you think all fragrances are the same, think again! Ranging from Fresh, Floral, Oriental and Woody, each with it’s own sub-categories your signature fragrance may be hard to find. Fresh fragrances usually have Citrus, Green Leaves, or Marine undertones. Floral perfumes usually have Jasmine, Rose or White Flowers, Oriental has Spices, Vanilla, and Patchouli. And Woody scents may have Citrus, Warm Woody smells, and Moss. While walking through Sephora or a department store, you see gorgeous glass bottles filled with pink, yellow, or even blue fluid inside. While these charming bottles are easy to the eyes, your new fave fragrance might be in a relatively plain bottle. Take, for example the new D&G scents. The bottle is clear glass, with a white rectangular sticker on it with the name, and a black cap.These
fragrances are part of a new set of six that can be bought together, or in separates. Le Bateleur(1), L’Imperatrice(3), L’Amoureux(6), La Roue De La Fortune(10), and La Lune(18) are all made to be unisex. Now, some smell more feminine than others, and some more masculine, these perfumes are a breakthrough for the world of fragrances where floral takes over for women, and spicy takes over for men. Perfumes now more than ever are making style statements. With more and more fashion houses making their signature scents, it’s a whole lot easier to boost up your confidence, finish a look, or enjoy the way you smell. Some famous scents are Marc Jacob’s Daisy. Jean Paul Gaultier’s Classique, and Dior’s Miss Dior Cherie. And guys, don’t feel left out! JPG also has Le Male, Hugo Boss’ Boss, and Givenchy’s new Play There’s a fragrance for everyone, so don’t wait any longer, start searching for the smell that you adore! -ANASTASIYA MOROZ (9)
Perfume is more than something pretty to smell - perfume is a valuable commodity in the fashion industry. Perfume is a fashion passport - anyone can use it anywhere since, afterall, it fits in a bottle. Perfume, by its very nature, must be smelled. For customers to buy a perfume, the packaging, advertising, and hype surrounding it must be of top creativity and attractiveness. Think about it - how can a paper printed ad make you want to buy a product which should only appeal to one, in-person-only sense: smell? Some magazines, including
fashion
SMELLS LIKE SUCCESS: Above Left: Jean Paul Gaultier’s signature bottle for his “Man” fragrance. Below Left: Burberry Brit, one of the first foray’s of the design house’s trademark plaid. Right: Miss Dior Cherie’s high-budget ad, whose TV commercial was directed by Sofia Coppola.
Andy Warhol’s Interivew, list a fragrance in the photoshoots’ purchase paragraphs. Perfume is, despite common thought, not only smelled in the first person - perfume is an expereicne that extends to the ad campaign, the packaging, and the wearer. Perfume often funds a designer’s haute couture shows, since perfume serves as an inexpensive embodiment of a luxury brand. While few can afford a signature Chanel purse, many can pick up a bottle of Chanel No. 5 and have their bit of the double-C brand. Perfume is lucrative, while the runway shows are a drain on money. Bottom line: next time you catch a whiff of a putrid or a pleasing perfume, remember that that little glass bottle holds more than a mere fragrance. -ALICE TARANTO (11)
fashion
obituaries
Lee “Alexander” McQueen Students reflect on the tragic and untimely death of a designer and artist. February 11th, 2010 should have been an extremely joyful day for fashionistas around the world. It was the first day of New York Fashion week, which kicked off the beginning of the Fall 2010 RTW shows. However, this day suddenly became filled with horror and sadness. Lee Alexander McQueen had committed suicide, sending shock throughout the fashion world. His death occurred nine days after his mother passed away, an event which many believe led to his unhappiness. Throughout his career McQueen continually astonished everyone with his outlandish designs, which were frequently seen on Lady Gaga, Rihanna, and Björk. He received the British Designer of the Year Award four times and served as head designer for Givenchy for five years before starting his own line. McQueen was an inspiration to numerous designers and artists. After his death many people celebrated his life and genius through designs, performances, and commemorations. Betsey Johnson paid tribute to McQueen at her Fall 2010 show. NY Magazines “The Cut” reported that Johnson said this was her favorite show she ever put on. They wrote, “The designer also worked in a tribute to Alexander McQueen — a bride with wax lips trailed by a “Long Live McQueen” sign. Johnson changed the look two days ago to honor McQueen and worked out some preshow jitters today by wrapping the bride’s bouquet herself. “I was scared with the lips,” she said. “I love those lips, and when McQueen did those lips I thought, Oh my God, he loves those candy wax big red lips! But his were real.” He might no longer be with us, but McQueen will continue to be an inspiration to designers. At London Fashion Week, a wall was mounted in honor of McQueen where people could leave notes for the late designer. The British Fashion Council put up the wall in the main tent at the Somerset House. Chairman of the council, Harold Tillman made a speech in the start of the week where he reflected on McQueen’s impact on London fashion. He said, “I know that you will all remember Lee’s life his incredible achievements and what he did for fashion here in London. He proved that this industry and this city, is one of opportunity. He has inspired so many
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to set up their own collections and has influenced many designers to ensure London is home city as it continues to grow, as a global fashion centre will be a fitting tribute to this great man.” As Alexander McQueen’s “unofficial muse” as the Huffington Post describes, Lady Gaga was deeply saddened by his passing. She was seen sporting his designs at award shows and in her music videos. At the Brit Awards, Lady Gaga began her performance of Telephone by saying, “this is for Alexander McQueen.” She apparently changed her whole performance in order to properly commemorate McQueen. As soon as she heard that he died, Lady Gaga tweeted a joyful picture of the two friends together. Other stars used twitter as a means to remember the innovative designer as well. Here are some of the tweets from celebrities about McQueen. As Alexander McQueen’s “unofficial muse” as the Huffington Post describes, Lady Gaga was deeply saddened by his passing. She was seen sporting his designs at award shows and in her music videos. At the Brit Awards, Lady Gaga began her performance of Telephone by saying, “this is for Alexander McQueen.” She apparently changed her whole performance in order to properly commemorate McQueen. As soon as she heard that he died, Lady Gaga tweeted a joyful picture of the two friends together. Other stars used twitter as a means to remember the innovative designer as well. To the right, find some As Alexander McQueen’s “unofficial muse” as the Huffington Post describes, Lady Gaga was deeply saddened by his passing. She was seen sporting his designs at award shows and in her music videos. At the Brit Awards, Lady Gaga began her performance of Telephone by saying, “this is for Alexander McQueen.” She apparently changed her whole performance in order to properly commemorate McQueen. As soon as she heard that he died, Lady Gaga tweeted a joyful picture of the two friends together. Other stars used twitter as a means to remember the innovative designer as well. Here are some of the tweets from celebrities about McQueen. Alexander McQueen will be severely missed by all and is a great loss to the design world. He will continue to inspire us all and be an inspiration to young designers.-RACHEL SCHEINFELD(10)
DIVINE DESIGN: Top to bottom: The designer himself; At the Spring/Summer 1999 show, model Shalom Harlow’s white dress way livespray-painted. McQueen’s work was more often theater than plain runway show; Autumn/ Winter 2008 tulle-and-lace peacock dress; McQueen’s trecherous Spring/Summer 2010 “Armadillo” hoof/claw boots caused a big stir in the fashion world.
,
r
RACHEL SCHEINFELD (10) GATHERS THE CELEBRITES’ OPINIONS FROM THEIR TWITTER PAGES
• DitaVonTeese: “Rest in peace, Mr. McQueen.” • Kirstie Alley: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN...you made big bottomed and not so big bottomed girls all over the world look stunning..come back soon..give it another go” • Kim Kardashian: I just found out Alexander McQueen died!!! I’m in shock! So sad! I’m wearing one of his dresses now! He was such a talented designer” • Stephanie Pratt: “No, no, no omg so sad :( “ • Russell Simmons: “Nice guy commited suicide. Hurts to hear” • Kelly Osbourne: “i am so so sad to hear the news of Lee (Alexander) McQueen! i really just dont know what say im really in shock” • Rachel Zoe: “I cant describe the tragic loss of such a brilliant man and designer Alexander McQueen..R.I.P xo RZ” • Katy Perry: “Rest In Peace Alexander McQueen. Just woke up, so sad.” • Jenna Elfman: SOOOOOOO sad that Alexander McQueen has passed. 40 years old, a brilliant designer. Thank you for all you created...” • Joel Madden: “R.I.P. Alexander McQueen. You were one of the best man. Always hoped to meet you.” • Simon Huck: “OMG! this is so sad! Alexander McQueen commits suicide. so sad...” • Donatella Versace: “Alexander McQueen was unique. His imagination had no limits, he had an amazing personality and his creativity was genius.” • Christian Siriano: “McQueen has inspired me in every way possible,I did not know him well but i feel so honored to have watched him work on his craft.” • Catherine Malandrino: “I just heard about Alexander McQueen and I feel so devastated. My heart and prayers are with his loved ones.”
Irving Penn
fashion
Alexander McQueen’s death was a major loss to the fashion industry. His wild ideas and eye-catching dresses, and his multiple talents, are factors that will not be forgotten and his presence will be missed at this years London’s Fashion week. His “thinking outside of the box” and his eye for fashion paid off in his magnificent, popular designs. McQueen designed dresses for stars such as Lady Gaga, Nicole Kidman, Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, are usually seen wearing most of McQueen’s fashion. Lady Gaga does not only rock his abstract and intriguing sense of style in her music videos but to various and award shows and when she is on tour. One of McQueen’s inspirations for one of his collections was Elizabeth Taylor movie Cleopatra. His models wore thick black eye liner, “extended Egyptian style” with vibrant teal, green and blue eyes. McQueen’s 2010 Spring collection consists of a combination of multiple off the shoulder dresses and pencil dresses. Some of his designs consists of asymmetric patterns, geometric patterns, draped one shoulder dresses, and mini dresses. McQueen also designed blazers and tops and trousers suitable and trendy for Spring this year. His designs will surely be honored and recognized all over the world. -VIVIEN IKWUAZOM (9)
Rachel Scheinfeld (10) gives a tribute to the master photographer. On October 7th acclaimed photographer Irving Penn passed away at age 92 after a long and successful career. In 1943 Penn began to work at Vogue, which was the beginning of a new form of beauty and elegance within photography. His photos were simple; no extreme movement or emotion, it was simply the expression of the beauty of the model and the clothing that were portrayed. He was originally trained to be a painter, but his love for art quickly transferred to photography. He was a very private person who wanted the sole focus of his life to be revolved about what he was capturing in his photos and not about the fame that came with being so talented. Penn’s style was very consistent throughout his whole career. In the book “Passage,”
which was a book about Penn’s career, Alexander Liberman said about Penn, “Here was a young American who seemed unspoiled by European mannerisms or culture. I remember he wore sneakers and no tie. I was struck by his directness and a curious unworldliness, a clarity of purpose, and a freedom of decision. What I call Penn’s American instincts made him go for the essentials.” In his photos the whole figure was always included, showing the complete magnificence of the whole frame. He used a classical style that could even be compared to the Greek and Roman styles of art. He will always be remembered as a man who changed the art of photography and helped shape Vogue into the magazine it is today.
SHUTTER BUG: Clockwise: June 1950 Vogue cover shot by Penn; 1996 famous shot of top model Kate Moss; Woman with Bare Back, New York, 1961.
fashion
Project/Magic http://www.projectshow.com/
http://www.magiconline.com/
Las Vegas may not seem like the biggest fashion city but surpris- with feminine touches, harem pants, army jackets, studs, ripped ingly two shows, Magic and Project astonish guests and leave and acid washed jeans. Also Jean Paul Gauitier was showcasing them wanting more. Walking into the large space called Project jelly heels, a play on the kid classic jelly shoes, yet more for the could seem overwhelming at first, but soon the aisles labeled adult. The buyers walking up and down the aisles were dressed like Manhattan Streets to the nines wearing, over(Park, Broadway, 8th Avsized sweaters, tight ripped enue) seem familiar as jeans, boots, plaid, boythey are lined with little friend jackets, vests, straw boutique booths. It's dechats, and large scarves. orated like a lounge with Project showed the newest white vintage chairs, purtrends and made sure to ple carpet and balloons have their clients as comin the front to greet all fortable as possible, and their guests. An amenity have a great time looking at they provide is handing the wonders of the fashion out bags to all the buyers industry. Another show also and vendors that come to in Las Vegas is MAGIC, it view all the new trends. is more contemporary and These bags have been a doesn't display as many tradition at Project, each new trends as it does big year they design somename vendors including, thing new, this year they Havianias, Junk Food, Dawent for the industrial vid & Goliath, Steve Madlook, a trend that was den, BCBGeneration, and occurrent during Project. DO YOU BELIEVE IN MAGIC? Left: The many booths at the Las Vegas many more. The trends Magic fashion industry-insider convention. Photo via Kanfer. From shoes to jewelry, were consistent in the way especially clothing each cased there include AG, Joes Jeans, that each new designer displayed their new designs. MAGIC was aisle is packed with new BCBG, Elizabeth and James, Dillion larger and more crowded than Project because it draws in more and old vendors, some Rogers, Vince, Ralph Lauren and so cliental and bigger buyers with large stores. All in all Project and known, others unknown, many more. Models in some booths MAGIC were two large conventions displaying the latest trends in each displaying their display new fashions such as: bright the large and growing fashion industry. idea of the new trends. colors, oversized tops, patterns, oxName brands show- ford shoes, oversized menswear
ings based on the pages of Vogue.
Samantha Michel (11) A cureated selection of her draw-
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Billie Kanfer (10) gives her insider’s take on industry-only Las Vegas events.
Horace Mann School
Lauren Cantor (10) gives us a Q + A with the Senior VP of Corporate Communications at Ralph Lauren.
Julie Berman is the Senior Vice President of Corporate Communications at Ralph Lauren. She has been working at Ralph Lauren for two years after she switched over from her position at Estee Lauder and has been involved “in communications or PR for over 20 years.” I was lucky enough to ask her some questions about her life and job at Ralph Lauren. For all those readers who have ever thought about getting involved in public relations, this is the woman to follow! What is a day like for you at Ralph Lauren? There really is no typical day at Polo. We have over 17,000 employees globally and we sell in over 40 countries. Polo Ralph Lauren is a public company so on any given day the press departments around the globe are managing the media (print, broadcast, radio, on line, etc) relating to our stock price, Mr. Lauren the man, apparel (of which we have about 17 different lines), accessories, footwear, fragrance, eyeglasses, children’s-wear, home furnishings, paint, watches, and more! How long have you been in this industry with PR for fashion? I started my career in Public Affairs in Washington, DC, which is a form of public relations, and moved to NY a few years later where I landed a job at Estee Lauder working on their Prescriptive brand. For the next 15 years I worked in various PR positions throughout the 26 brands in the Estee Lauder portfolio --to find myself the number 2 person in the corporate communications department. I know you recently switched from working at Estee Lauder to Ralph Lauren, was there something about the change in industry that caused that? Taking the position at Ralph Lauren was an opportunity to be the number one person running the department. I oversee hundreds of people in the PR departments, philanthropy, as well as Employee Communications. Although I have no design skill, I still play an active and crucial role in this fashion
What would you say to students who are trying to get involved in fashion or public relations? There are many opportunities for those who cant create, design, sew or draw in fashion. I am not involved in the designing of the clothes; however, Mr. Lauren asks for
Berman herself, photo via Cantor.
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Julie Berman
house.
opinions and I am always happy to give mine! I know Ralph Lauren has recently been involved in sponsoring the American Olympic team and clothing line, what can you tell us about that? Polo is very involved in many world-class sporting events including outfitting the on court officials for the US Open and Wimbledon. Recently, Polo Ralph Lauren entered into an agreement with the USOC to design the opening and closing ceremony uniforms for the 20082012 US Olympic teams. It was pretty amazing seeing Team USA wearing them and representing America’s best. We also create village wear so that even if you aren’t an athlete competing you can still dress like one. The Olympic uniforms for the Vancouver games were inspired by the 1930 games of Lake Placid. They are patriotic in feel and color --and clearly were a huge hit. The hat we designed for the Opening Ceremonies sold out and is now only available on eBay. Crew neck or polo? I am an equal opportunist and try to wear all the brands we design from Women’s Collection to Rugby. My favorite Polo is from the Beijing Summer Olympics with the USA flag.
Sam Says:
“Over Christmas Break I drew these images. I’ve never actually learned how to draw faces but the issue of Vogue I was flipping through had a lot of full page portraits that were really good photographs. I wanted to see if I was capable of drawing them, so I tried it out and it worked!”
STRIKE A POSE: From left: model Kasia Struss with big braided hair; Rachel McAdams in a floral busiter; Scarlett Johansson in a makeup advert; singer M.I.A. being characteristically dramatic.
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Mark Indelicato Billie Kanfer (10) catches up with Ugly Betty’s “Justin Suarez.” http://markindelicato.blogspot.com/
You are only 15 years old and started acting at an earlier age too. Do you think that it was better for you to get started in both the fashion and acting industry at a young age? I think that it’s a good thing and a bad thing. Good because I got a head start, bad because I missed out on being a normal kid. What is it like to be so involved in the fashion industry interning at teen vogue and participating in many red carpet events? It’s so much fun! I love working with everyone there, and am learning so much. The red carpet events are fun, but too many can be very stressful. How is the internship at Teen Vogue? What have you been up to since you started there? [See f.a.d.’s Teen Vogue trip on page 52] The internship is going great. I do a lot of different things there, it’s nice because I get to experience all different aspects of the magazine. Do you ever get nervous on the red carpet? Not really anymore. At first I used to be so scared of the photographers and everything, but it’s like second nature to me. Do you ever find yourself overwhelmed in such a pressuring business, acting, etc.? Always. It’s really stressful to be a part of the business, but to have to juggle school with all of that its extra stress. What is it like to be apart of such a popular show? Sadly, the show is ending, how are you taking this major change? It’s surreal that’s for sure. I never really thought anything like this would happen to me. Yes, the show is ending :(. It has been really amazing, and I know that we are all destined for bigger and better things.
artist’s statement
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Billie Kanfer (10) made this painting in Mr. Do’s Drawing and Painting 2 advanced class. The dresses are from Victor and Rolf’s Spring/Summer 2010 “cutting back” show. These dresses, of swiss-cheeseesque cutouts, would impress any master topiarist. I “chose to paint these dresses because I was so drawn to the show. Viktor and Rolf really outdid themselves!.”, she said. ALICE TARANTO (11)
Horace Mann School
THINK UGLY: Top to bottom: Indelicato himself, and on set in a fashionforward outfit. You have great fashion sense! Is there any designer, era, style that you refer back to when picking your wardrobes? Thank you! I just like to be comfortable so skinny jeans, and oversized flannel and Keds or Toms are good enough for me (for everyday wear). Do you see yourself continuing in the paths you are already on (acting/ singing), or do you want to try something new? I love acting, but fashion is really starting to appeal to me more and more. Who knows, I have so much time to figure it out. And lastly, which do you prefer, sweet or sour candy? Def sweet.
Rachel Scheinfeld (10) asks the guy behind Jane Creative few questions.
http://janecreative.com/
What exactly is Jane Creative? How did you come up with the idea for it? Jane Creative is an online marketing and creative services agency. We help our clients utilize the internet in effective and interesting ways to achieve their objectives, whether they be awareness, sales or site traffic. The idea was inspired by the obvious changing of the guard going on in media right now. Traditional channels like radio, print and television are proving themselves less and less effective, while the internet is growing all the more influential with every passing day. I viewed this shift as an opportunity for new businesses to arise, and with a background in writing and marketing, I took this opportunity and ran with it. Who is the real Jane? Jane is my mother. I wanted to name my company after something that was meaningful to me and not use the name to try to convey a corporate agenda. It isn’t chest pounding or contrived and is a nice homage to the woman who sat through too many HM football games in the rain. What do you do at Jane Creative? For the most part, I oversee everything from reviewing artwork to monitoring media performance. The only granular tasks I handle are writing copy and new business development. The rest I delegate to people much smarter and more stylish than I. What is the idea behind “Just Add Water” and the drops on your website? The drops are meant to symbolize ideas. The parallel is that both are things that may start off as something small and seemingly insignificant but if properly harnessed can amount to something massive and truly impactful. Just as a ripple begins with a single drop, a highly viral marketing campaign begins with a single idea, which at first glance might seem completely idiotic but could echo into the next big thing. The point is that ideas, no matter how big or small they may seem at first, are things that should be cherished and never dismissed. Seeing how novel ideas are the basis of creativity, I figured the drops made for great iconography to use throughout my site. How did Horace Mann and Cornell [educations] affect your career? As a student interested in writing, Horace Mann gave me a bevy of publications that i could participate in, and these writing opportunities were some of my earliest opportunities to flex my creative muscle. While my writing was greeted with both love and detest alike, I learned just how influential the written word could be in stirring emotional responses. I carried this lesson with me to Cornell, where i honed the skill and refined my writing style. Today, writing words that make people feel something is what i do for a living. When did you decide and figure out that this is what you wanted to do? I have always been interested in advertising. I may have been the only 5 year old to question the validitiy of that bird’s coo cooness for coco puffs. The issue was that while my passion for the ad world remained constant, the ad world itself did not. The ipod killed radio, Tivo killed television, and
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Spencer Gellman HM alum ‘00
the internet killed print. Observing these trends, I determined that if I wanted to be in advertising for the foreseeable future, that my focus had to be on the web and new media. Are there going to be any changes in Jane Creative in the near
THE GRADUATE: Horace Mann Alum ‘00 Gellman’s company Jane Creative has the underlying theme of “Just Add Water.” One of Jane Creative’s clients is bespoke suiting company Alabaster & Chess, of HM alum ‘01 Eli Chess (see f.a.d. issue 1 p. 28-29 to hear from Chess).
future? We are probably going to move into a new office in the next few months to accommodate our expanding workforce. Other than that, we’re pretty happy with what we got going on right now. Where do you see the company moving in the next few years? We plan on expanding and taking on clients in new areas. One of the best parts of marketing is that you get a taste of whatever industry your client may be in. If you are working for a fashion company, you become immersed in the fashion world. If you are working for a gallery, you learn about the latest trends and movements in art. It exposes you to what everyone is doing in the world around you. For this reason, we are always looking to move into new sectors of business so that we can learn new things and meet new people.
How do you make the connections with the people you work with, and who are some of your clients? I couldn’t even begin to tell you. Clients come from the strangest places. Whether it be something as basic as your friends needing a website for their company or something as wild as a cab driver who hands you his card afte overhearing your cell phone conversation, I have picked up clients in all sorts of ways. I guess the key is to always keep your eyes open. Opportunities for new business arise every day, you just need to know to look for them. Right now, some of my clients include fashion companies INHABIT, ADAM [see f.a.d.’s review of the ADAM Autumn/Winter 2010 show on p. ___], Splits 59 and the Ana Tzarev Gallery. Last question....just for fun: What do you put in first the hot water or the tea bag? That really depends on what I’m making.
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f.a.d. special: young, hip jewelry designers Molly Hanna Carey Victoria Marlin (11) asks the J. Crew jewelry designer a few questions. http://www.molly-hanna.com/
Molly Hanna Carey is a designer. She currently is designing the J.Crew Wedding Collection as well as being a jewelry designer for J.Crew. She studied Fashion Design at Parsons School of Design in New York City and graduated in 2005 where she had her first job in fashion working with a hat designer called Leah who she now will be able to collaborate with for her new bridal line. Carey draws inspiration from an assortment of places, from galleries and rock shows to thrift stores and blog sites. Molly enjoys the simple perks in life, like her “in the industry” boyfriend who she loves borrowing clothes from. Though her true forte is fashion, Molly admits to being quite the “soccer stud” when she was younger. The best fashion advice she can give you is don’t wear clothes too small! Her creative names for her jewelry rival those of Essie’s Nail collection from Necklace pieces entitled “She’s so Tweedy” to “Sea Creature,” each is unique and beautiful and combines “the old and the new” with perfection.
LINK LOVE: Top to bottom: Carey wears a necklace of her own design in J. Crew’s Spring catalogue featuring J. Crew’s friends, associates, and acquaintances. Carey’s “Bird of Paradise” necklace. All pieces available for purchase on her blog.
What was the biggest obstacle you ever had to overcome in the fashion industry? I think one of my biggest obstacles or, struggles was when I was still in school at Parsons interning for a small design company and being totally taken advantage of. I still to this day regret not standing up for myself the way I should have. I definitely learned from that experience that no matter what, you have to demand what you deserve, or get out! Is there anything or any cause you are trying to show or bring light to in your pieces? Any message or theme you try to show through all of your pieces? In my pieces the theme is all about having a sense of humor and never taking anything too seriously. What made you want to be a designer? What was your initial inspiration to make you chose this occupation? When I was a little girl, I remember going to my best friend’s house and her older sister (who I thought was the coolest) had the documentary unzipped about Isaac Mizrahi. I just sat there watching, awe-inspired, and I had this burning desire to do what he was doing. Who are your favorite designers? Muiccia Prada, Phillip Lim, Pheobe Philo (the new designer for Celine). What is your best fashion advice for high schoolers? (Aside from not wearing our clothes too tight, which we read about in your J. Crew interview!) Advice for high schoolers... go for it! Take risks, have fun, most importantly remember that you are young and never take yourself too seriously because it is inevitable that one day you will look back and laugh at what you were wearing.
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cont’d p. 59
Often high school kids can’t afford to get clothes from the nicest designers, are there any affordable stores around New York that we should visit? I have always loved thrift stores and vintage stores. Housing Works always has great finds- Amarcord in Williamsburg has great quality vintage. My absolute guilty pleasure is Mystique in Soho on Broadway. If you can get past their mannequins and window displays they have amazingly cheaptrendy clothing. Often times we struggle between finding inspiration from someone and
just copying his or her work. What advice can you give high school aspiring
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you ought to know about Lisa Salzer Daphne (11) chats with the Lulu Frost designer in the jewelry line’s Soho studio. http://lulufrost.com/
Jewelry designer and Dartmouth grad Lisa Salzer combines vintage with modern for a fresh take on one-of-a-kind statement pieces in her label Lulu Frost. Daphne Taranto (11) catches up with Lisa at the Lulu Frost studio in Soho, NYC. Where do you live and how does that affect your style/work? I live in SOHO on west Broadway and I’ve lived in the East Village/SOHO for the past four years. I think it’s definitely effected my thinking of art and design because every time on my walk from home to work (on Lafayette) I’m surrounded by people who dress in different ways as I pass different galleries and I pass things every day that effect my New York frame of mind. I get to see a lot of interesting New Yorkers and tourists visiting who have their own individual sense of style. And that influences me. When did you begin Lulu Frost (2004) and how old are you now? (27) I’m 27 years old now and I started Lulu Frost my senior year at Dartmouth (when I was 21 or 22) and I was just really doing it for fun and on a whim. I decided to make it a part of my senior year project and Barneys called and became our first supplier! So Lulu Frost is 5 years old now. How was it to get your first big break with Lulu Frost? I felt very lucky to have that break –I was shocked they called me back. It was an amazing feeling when I was invited to come in to show my work! It was nerve racking and I feel excited and blessed that that happened. Other than Barneys, where might FAD readers see your designs now – I’ve seen them in Teen Vogue this month – that’s so exciting! (include picture) Yes, we are in Vogue and Teen Vogue this month as well as Elle and Bazaar. The line is at Bergdorf Goodman’s on the 6th floor, that’s our main New York home. On the Upper East Side it’s sold at Blue Tree on 93rd and Madison. (http://www.bluetreenyc.com/index.php?route=res|home)
Daphne and Salzer review the latest collection in the Lulu Frost Soho studio. Photo courtesy of Taranto.
How did your high school and college experiences help lead you to where you are today, beyond making the line a part of your senior year? In high school I was really involved in art (I took AP art class). I loved idea of creating something and being to able to have an idea in my mind, then bring it to life. I continued in college – I majored in art history and fine studio arts. I did a lot of studio sculpture and painting as well as art history. There was a great jewelry studio at Dartmouth where I started to learn about jewelry making. What inspires you to make jewelry? You often use found or vintage materials to create your pieces – for example, the Plaza Hotel numbers. How would you say that jewelry/art, and old/new combine, especially with your work? I was definitely inspired by my grandmother. The name of company comes from her – Lulu is my nickname and my grandma’s name is Frost. She worked in the estate and jewelry business for thirty years, so I grew up in and around beautiful Victorian deco jewelry. Combining my love of jewelry and
CHAIN STORE: a Left modto right: ern spin Yards of on that led me chains stocked to not just use old at Lulu Frost; things but combine them the showroom’s with something new to create a mirrored disfresh look in jewelry. Definitely that play boxes; a mix of old and new is crucial to Lulu Frost. Lulu Frost piece. What advice do you have for aspiring high school artists, bloggers, fashionistas, and jewelrydesign-lovers? I would say just get out there – do it right away, start even if you don’t know everything. Learning comes through experience, even for me. I learned the best by being thrown out into a situation. Follow your passion you’ll become an expert at it through doing it! And finally, studs or dangly pendant earrings? That’s a funny question because we are just starting a style of earrings with a stud on one side and a similar pendant drop on the other side – I like the mix!
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Linda Fargo
Alice Taranto (11) has a chat with the Senior Vice President of the Fashion Office and Store Presentation at Bergdorf Goodman.
Interview conducted by Alice Taranto (11), assisted by Zoe Kestan (11) and Rachel Scheinfeld (10)
http://www.bergdorfgoodman.com/
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During fashion week (see p. 7 for f.a.d.’s reviews), Rachel and Alice stopped for lunch. Who happened to be sitting next to them? None other than Linda Fargo, the woman in charge of literally everything to be seen at luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman. After you’ve checked out Alice’s chat here, be sure to stop at Bergdorf’s (58th and 5th), if only for a look at the legendary windows.
What exactly is your role at Bergdorf Goodman? My title is Senior Vice President of the Women’s fashion office and store presentation. I actually wear a number of hats here, I see myself a little bit as a brand manager, as somebody who watches over anything to do with the environmental experience of the store. That means everything that you see, not per se “experience,” since experience goes broader than what you see – the experience goes to the sales people, and there’s always the element that goes beyond the visual. But the visual experience is primarily my responsibility. I also work on content, and what fashion we want to stand for. I work on content as well as presentation is the simplest way of putting it. If you had a typical day, what would that look like? I’m happy to tell you that there really almost isn’t a typical day, which is something that I love about this work [laughs]. No two days are the same! It all depends. For example the day I ran into you we were in the middle of fashion week. Any time you’re in the fashion market, you are out of the office a lot. You are meeting with different design houses and really looking through products to get a feeling of where fashion is going. What is starting to feel new to us? For example, we just finished Fall ’10 and some of the messages that started feeling new to us (and what I’ll be in conversation about with our buying team to feel that we’re all on the same page) is a new classicism: a kind of clean, sportswear, very directional feeling. We’ll talk a lot about pants feeling new after many seasons of dresses. That’s part of my job, to engage the team in a dialogue so we don’t just fall back on the tried-and-true products. Something else that’s feeling very new to us is suiting – new types of suiting, whether it be skirt suits or pantsuits. We felt that there have been generations of women who really haven’t worn those, and that was a new direction for us. When we go to market we’re specifically looking item-by-item, whether there is a good price-value to it. Price-value doesn’t mean it’s inexpensive, but it means you would say: “For that item, that [price is] fair.” Even if it’s expensive, if it’s wonderful and creates emotion, the client will say, “I love it.” Fashion market is really about speaking with either the designers or the sales force. It’s really important to establish, again as I keep saying, a dialogue. The most qualitative effect you can have is a good dialogue, whether that is with your own team or the vendor community. Let’s take this week as an example: back on
the office floor, I divide my time between a lot of work on store design and real estate. This week, I’m working on shop design for Dries van Noten and Rick Owens, both of whom will be new to Bergdorf Goodman by June/July of this year. Or I’ll meet with a publisher who has an idea for a great synergy project they might want to do with Bergdorf Goodman – for example there was somebody in from publishing at Vogue this week. We have a lot of interesting collaborative brainstorm meetings about Fashion’s Night Out, which as you know, has really gained a lot of traction. We’ve brainstormed about what to do – we talk about anything from crowd control [laughs] to what the really enticing events are, or should we invite in Hamish Bowles [European editor at large of Vogue] to do cabaret, should we ask Grace Coddington [creative director of US Vogue] to come, we will art direct a photo shoot in the windows… I think you can tell that the range is really broad, I’m happy to say. Another thing that I work on is all of our marketing material from a content point of view – I don’t art direct it, in terms of choosing a photographer, but I would work on what the product to shoot will be. We do four, basically, magazines a year and I do a lot of planning with buyers about what we want to show. That’s a big concern of mine. It can go all the way from that to something as small as, since we have restaurants here [at Bergdorf Goodman], I might make a shout out about how they’re serving the coffee and the tea and everything. Why are they bringing the bottle
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When I was a younger artist, I did a lot of small assemblages within glass boxes. As I started working in a professional world, the boxes just kind of got bigger.
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to the table, shouldn’t that be done in the back… Since I’ve worked for Bergdorf’s for 14 years, I feel very proprietary about it, it’s almost like my house, and I like to really watch over everything. It’s kind of like a family, you can say hello, and we have great communication between all the people who work here. I’m maybe overlooking the creative visual part – I have my window team, my interior team, and we’re back and forth right now: What do we do, do we support the Metropolitan Institute this year, we just installed something to support the Brooklyn Institute of Music, we’re simultaneously throwing around ideas for the holiday windows… so it’s a lot of variety, really it’s a great balance of fashion, art, design, service, heritage, as well as things that are very modern and forward-looking. One thing I read is that you completed a B.F.A., and when you were in high school as a teenager, you did collages… [laughs] You did your homework! I did, I did. My roots are really as a fine arts person. I studied fine arts and the art form I really ended up loving was assemblage and collage work. Repurposing found objects, and that kind of morphed into my interest in window design. It is very much, for me, working with found objects. When I was a younger artist, I did a lot of small assemblages within glass boxes. As I started working
WINDOW OF THE SOUL: A detail image of one of Bergdorf Goodman’s famous holiday 2009 windows, themed “A Compendium of Curiosities” and loosely based on the Alice in Wonderland story. A part of Fargo’s work is to conceptualize the fashion for the windows.
in a professional world, the boxes just kind of got bigger. [laughs] What else can you tell us, since most of the f.a.d. readers are high schoolers, about your high school experience? I would tell people to really listen to their inner voices in a sense – if there’s something you’re really drawn to, that excites you more than something else, pay attention to that urge! If you find yourself very turned on by technology, then you should really start focusing your efforts in that direction. I do think that it’s also important, especially when you’re younger, to expose yourself to as much as possible, even if it means that that’s a process of elimination. The more you see, the more you taste, the more places you go, the more you start to know yourself better. I think that’s important – if you have opportunities to get out and do internships wherever possible, to get a chance to experience what different workplaces feel like. But listen, for your generation the workplace is really going to be changing so much from my era, there are so many new types of careers to be created! So much because of the internet and technology, the workplace sometimes can be your laptop! [laughs] And what do you think of the internet’s role in fashion and online-only magazines, or all the young fashion bloggers? You know what, I think it’s great! It’s where it’s going, and you can’t fight it – it’s the way of the world. To me, what I love about [technology and the internet’s popularity],
contininued on p. 58
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Sally Singer
Emma Specter (11) gets in conversation with the fashion news and features director of American Vogue. http://www.vogue.com/
What’s your favorite part of your job? My job has allowed me to know, be in conversation with, and be friends with people I find really exciting. In the case of designersNicolas Ghesquiere, Alber Ebaz, Olivier TheyskensI knew them from when I was at British Vogue and Elle, so it isn’t as though I’d met them at American Vogue, but it just so happened that I entered the world of fashion at a moment in which a lot of people who do things I find interesting were also entering the world of fashion. Not only did I get to come up with a generation, but I also get to be in a job where it’s my business to know what’s going on with these people and to be in conversation about the direction in which fashion is going, and at the end of the day that’s the most interesting thing to me. Another really fun part of my job is when I can get something into the magazine that no-one thought would make it in, like when we can do a story that is just so outside the realm of what anyone would expect to see in American Vogue (like a story we’re working on about a Tennessee organization called Remote Area Medical, that delivers health care to people in underprivileged areas) because we’ve shot it so beautifully or aspects of it have been somehow warped, and it gets in. You’ve worked at the London Review of Books in the past- how is the editing process for a fashion magazine different than the process for a literary publication? At the London Review of Books, you’d have a stack of books on your desk, and you’d spend your day going through them and reading and trying to see if there’s anything worth reviewing- I always had stacks of fiction on mine! At some point in the day, the editorin-chief would lift her head up and we’d discuss a few books, and then we’d put our heads back down. It was like being a graduate student, in the best sense, and I loved it. Working at a literary magazine,
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IN VOGUE: Clockwise about page: Singer; Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, with Singer; the Vogue logo; covers October 2009 with Michelle Williams and March 2009 with first lady Michelle Obama.
or any criticism-based publication (and these are a dying breed of jobs) is largely a reactive job- the books exist, and you have to find ways of doing creative things by pairing off interesting minds with interesting concepts. At a fashion magazine, at least from where I sit, it’s obviously a much more visual job- at least half of it is visual. You wake up in the morning, and you just try to make something happen every day- it’s far more self-motivated, and I like that. Is there anything you’d want to say to the many young people who want work in fashion, but don’t necessarily have a way of breaking into the business? First of all, I’d say that now, thanks to the Internet, there are so many ways to communicate one’s style without having to worry about being part of any other organization. That’s a moment happening right now that might faze out, but it does give people a chance to design their world and their style. Fashion, at the top, is a set of freaks who have constructed, through clothes, something that makes them feel at home in the world. I think fashionat its highest level- still rewards and validates those who are outsiders, those who needed clothes and who needed the selffashioning that comes with thinking about style.
Elisa Jimenez ShaKea Alston (9) chats with the fashion designer, artist, and former Project Runway (Season 4) contestant.
talk to me
When did you first become interested in fashion? How did you become involved in the industry? I first got into “fashion” when I was about 4 or 5yrs and I told my mother that what I wore directly affected how I felt. She was like, “Of course, clothes are how you create yourself in the world, how you explore being the many qualities of “Me” that we become in our lifetime, so ok, I won’t make you ever wear the brown and orange plaid dress again.” Understand, that my mother was/is a beautiful woman, working graphic artist and single mother in a time when she was unknowingly a pioneer. None of the moms wore long vests, miniskirts, turtlenecks, maxi boots, and mod glasses; my mom exemplified the “modern woman” in dress. She was like the blond from “Mod Quad”. Clothes reflected power, play, and position to me. A life as art, art as life relationship via what I wore was born; encouraged by my mother and tolerated by everyone else! I “accidentally” got involved in the fashion industry in around ‘94-95 directly from my other artwork, “The Hunger World” which is an interdisciplinary conceptional and mythological foundation from which I was/do work: writing, performance, drawing, painting, sculpting, installation, marionettes, and some raw film. I was doing a site-specific performance-sculpturewriting piece in Manhattan called “The Gold(in) Mean of Humanity” . This project was a combination of Jungian interpretations of alchemy, sacred geometry and mathematics influenced by the Pythagorean, and Greek and Roman Mythology synthesized into a Hunger World storyline and character. I spun large webs of minute golden thread at site specific locations throughout Manhattan to create an over all shape by their points. To do this, I was a character called, “The Spinner”..for real. I had done 7 of the 10 webs I had intended to do when I was to go to a friend’s birthday party and didn’t have time to change out of the dress I had constructed to be “The Spinner”. I take the golden spool of thread of the heart of the dress, pop in my bag, go to the party whereby a woman approaches me about my dress, throwing names out like Commes de Garcon and Martin Marghela. She became my first couture client. I had my first New York Fashion Week show in Central Park 5 months later, “We be not beggars, but Queens Unclaimed”. The next thing you know, I am working on all kinds of projects with well known and unknown women, and Vogue claims me. For 16 yrs now, I have been a consistent inside/ outsider working with a plethora of incredibly talented people and being my own independent “company” and employer. Who knew.
Elisa will be visiting Horace Mann on Thursday, April 29 from 3:15-5:30 for a workshop as a part of HM Fashion Week. Be sure to stop by! IT’S SEW TIME: Top to bottom: Jimenez with the lineup of Season 4 Project Runway contestants; 3 looks from Jimenez’s 2007 fashion show Hunger World.
What was your high school style like? Do you look back on anything you wore and cringe, or smile? Where did you grow up? I grew up in Texas, the Border and southern New Mexico. Both my parents were hardworking and successful artists and good friends, so I ran the border between their homes with my grandmother’s house in between as the base. I was she, my “Mija” who taught continued p.56
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QUICK CHAT: Rachel Roy
DESIGN MAJOR: Left: Rachel Roy strikes a pose with one of her creations. Right: A look from her Fall 2010 Collection. Bottom: The Rachel Rachel Roy Logo.
Zoe Kestan (11) checks in with the designer and HM Parent.
http://www.rachelroy.com/ When did designing become a major factor in your life? When I was about 8 years old and shopping for back to school clothing I was disappointed with the selection at the local stores where I grew up and wanted to make a change. I knew then that I wanted to be a part of fashion and be someone who would be able to offer a great product to consumers. Where do you live and how does that affect your style and designs? I live in New York City but my designs are inspired but much more than where I live. I am inspired by people around me. When I travel I am always looking at the way women wear their clothes – I love color and texture.My personal style has changed as I have moved through my life and career. I know what looks good on me and I stick to what I know will make me feel great and look good. When did the Rachel Roy brand expand out and how did you decide to create this secondary line?
ACCESSORIZE: Nancy(12) poses with a faux fur bag
Is Fur Making a Comback? by Katie Dinan (11) This past winter, a friend of mine tried to hide the fact that she was wearing a coat lined with fur. She knew how I would respond – to me, a fur coat represents a lot of tortured animals. And the more I thought about it, the more fur coats I saw people wearing at school, on the street, and in magazines. Fur used to the epitome of “political
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I have always wanted to design a collection that was the little sister to Rachel Roy. I wanted it to be affordable, edgy and modern. I was lucky enough to partner with Jones Apparel Group who has been incredibly supportive of me and my brand growth. Do you have any advice for aspiring designers/artists/fashionistas? `Stay true to yourself and your convictions and work hard. Be the first to get to the office and the last to leave at night.
incorrectness” and was a social taboo. Yet, this past winter, fur was popular among the biggest fashion designers. Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, Diane Von Furstenburg, and Prada all displayed some type of fur on their runways, ranging from colorful mink jackets to fox mukluks. Fur has not only made a popular appearance in the fashion industry but also is in vogue among celebrities. People no longer fear their coat’s being shot with red paint. Keira Knightly, for example, attended an event late last year wearing a karakul lambskin coat. Other celebrities like Kate Moss, Madonna, and Lindsay Lohan have all worn fur in public and faced no criticism. This change in mindset is most clear when viewing the participants of PETA’s “I’d rather go naked than wear fur” campaign that aired fifteen years ago. All but one of the supermodels that participated have since worn fur. In particular, Naomi Campbell now campaigns for Dennis Basso, a furrier, and is even the namesake of one of his coats. What is to account for this change of attitude and increase in popularity? Designers have various reasons for using fur– some respond to the demand for this luxury product, some love its unique texture, and many simply feel no moral qualms. To quote Karl Lagerfield: “In a meat-eating world, wearing leather for shoes and clothes and even handbags, the discussion of fur is childish.” Fur is be-
coming more edgy and is being considered less old fashioned. However, one main reason for fur’s newfound popularity is due to the work of major fur companies. These companies have worked hard to increase their products’ appearance on the runway and to decrease the taboo against it. Kopenhagen Furs and Saga Furs claim to ethically treat their animals. They often give free materials to encourage designers to use their products, particularly attracting younger designers. Saga Furs flew out young designers Alexander Wang and Haider Ackermann to Copenhagan to view its design studio and use any of the materials. Saga, a cooperative that represents breeders, farmers, and auction houses, supplied fur to many major lines this season, including Proenza Schouler and Derek Lam. The North American Fur Auctions, another cooperative, gave furs to upcoming designers and also worked with established ones like Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera. These designers are given free fur and in return give credit to NAFA in the press. These fur cooperatives have spent hundreds of thousands of dollars to get their products used by designers and then in the pages of fashion magazines. And it seems to be working – for the first time in the past twenty years, the majority of designers have incorporated fur into their collections. Vogue has run pro-fur editorials, with its editor Anna Wintour commenting, “Fur is still part of fashion, so Vogue will continue to report on it.” Wintour had the
continued on p. 59
Lynn Yaeger
After a serendipitous run-in at a restaurant in NYC, Alice Taranto (11) talks with the modern style icon and former fashion reporter of the Village Voice. Assisted by Daphne Taranto (11)
What was your big break into the fashion world and how did you begin working at the Village Voice? Could you please just tell us a little bit about your long career there? I was always interested in fashion, but I was also very interested in left-wing politics. I went to work at the Village Voice, I was getting a graduate degree in Political Economy at the New School, which I never finished – I didn’t get the degree. But I got this job at the voice because I thought it would be a fun place to work while I was going to school. I was kind of ashamed of my fashion interest at that time and was not pursuing it professionally, and then I got very active in the Union at the Voice, and it was very fun so then I stopped going to school and then just was at the Voice. I started in the Advertising Department and I was just doing my Union Stuff and working at the Voice, but I was secretly obsessed with clothes and thinking of clothes all the time. Eventually, the voice started this fashion section but I was still in the Advertising Department. They started this section and I started to write for this section. So it was a very circuitous path to my career and not something I had consciously set out to do – a bit peculiar. Yes, it was a very interesting path that you took to get there! Different, yes! What would you say has been your favorite part of your career so far? Well, I love writing and it seems like a miracle to me to get paid to write and to be able to write for a living and not to have to secretly write and have some boring job that’s your “real job.” I sort of can’t believe it’s my real job! My favorite part of it? Everybody’s says, and it sounds like such a cliché, to get paid for what you love to do, but in my case it was really true that I was always a really compulsive, obsessive shopper, and the fact that I could turn that into a career was sort of a miracle. [Laughs] That’s great. With the “do what you love for a living” adage – you can’t get any better! It’s all true. It’s kind of rare, I feel very privileged. I don’t take it for granted, I really feel it’s special and I really think I’m luck y – I’m really excited about it, I’m not cynical about it at all. When we talked over email, high school sounded like a sensitive topic… It was just bad, it just wasn’t good. I grew up in Massapequa, it was a long time ago, it just wasn’t a good place for me, you know? When do you think you bloomed into yourself, or which of your experiences from when you were the age of most of the readers of f.a.d. magazine, about 15 to 20, do you think you really started to come into yourself? I was much happier in college. I left high school after junior year and went to college a year earlier since school was really just not working for me. As soon as I got into college, I had a happier time. A funny thing happened – I thought that as I got older, my clothes would become more conservative – you have this idea that you sort of “outgrow” whatever nuttiness you had. But actually the opposite happened in my case. The older I got, the bolder I got, more confident, I moved into the city [Manhattan] and people were more tolerant. It’s a funny question since it was really a gradual process for me, but the older I got, the happier I got. I also became much more accepting of how I look and take a longer view of things. When you’re younger, you’re so hypercritical of yourself – always comparing yourself to someone else. I
>> continued on p. 56
STYLE MAVEN: Lynn Yaeger, top to bottom, was photographed by Scott Schuman for his popular street style blog The Sartorialist in early April 2010; Yaeger in her NYC apartment; Yaeger’s signature makeup look.
talk to me
Casey Rosenblum + Amy Elfenbein Zoe Kestan (11) does a Q+A with the women behind the Ten Waverly headbands. http://www.tenwaverly.com/
HOT HEAD: Left to Right: Perry and Sadie headbands by Ten Waverly. What do you do exactly? How did Ten Waverly come about? We design, produce, self-market, and sell - every Ten Waverly piece is hand crafted. I (Amy) have always been a hair-obsessed person. In High School, I would wake up at least an hour early to make sure that I had time to style my hair exactly as I wanted it – very often with a headband or clip. After a couple of years working after graduating from college, we realized that we wanted to create something that was completely our own and do something we truly love. Once we made the decision to form a company, we worked around the clock to get Ten Waverly up and running. We launched by joining with a friend who designs tee shirts and sponsored Fashion Show hosted at a bar in Soho – it proved to be very successful. How does Ten Waverly work on the web? Tell us about the brand, and any success garnered by using the internet. We knew immediately that we wanted www.tenwaverly.com to be an e-commerce site. It gives our clientele the opportunity to shop directly from our website. We worked really closely with our web designer to make sure the site is easy to navigate in order to ensure that shopping was a seamless experience. We fully appreciate the power of the Internet and so, created a group on Facebook to help drive web traffic and demand for our products. Our Facebook group is very useful in reaching our clientele - we can spread news of our accomplishments, promotions and pieces immediately. It also helps to broaden our network to a diverse group who we wouldn’t be in touch with otherwise. We see that you’ve recently just released a Spring 2010 line. Tell us about it. We are incredibly excited about our new Spring line. We feel that there is something for everybody - the styles range from edgy to sweet and romantic. We’re most proud of the fact that this line is very wearable and
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completely unique compared to other products available in the market place. Where do you live and How does that affect your style and your designs? We live in Manhattan and gain inspiration from our daily activities. Everything from color schemes we see in paintings at the Met, to costumes we see in shows, plates of food we order at restaurants – this City is full of beauty. Honestly the most productive days are accomplished sitting outside in the West Village with a coffee and a pen, absorbing all creativity around us. How old are you? How did your interest in design, especially headwear design, begin? Was there a turning point in your career? I (Amy) am 26 years old. I grew up in a very creative house in Long Island. My mother couldn’t help herself - she made bows for my hair that matched every outfit I owned. Eventually it became ingrained; by the time I was 13, my sister and I would go and buy ribbons and trims - attach them to elastic and make headbands to go with every outfit. As I got older, my headbands became more sophisticated, both in design and production but it was always something I did just for fun. It wasn’t until a couple of years ago that I realized I could turn my hobby in to a career. After that, all it took was my current business partner coming to me and saying “this is crazy, you need to sell these”. What about your high school experience? Were you as involved in design during your teen years? I (Amy) went through a lot of different phases of design, especially in high school, high school is when you actually to begin to understand your own style. As I started to embrace my style I also started applying it to everything I had always created -jewelry, bags, costume design. I loved to tie-dye (still do)! Where do you see yourself going in the future? We would love to expand Ten Waverly beyond hair accessories. Eventually scarves will be a part of our product line. There is so much to be done under the “accessories” umbrella and it would be satisfying to branch out. Do you have any advice for aspiring designers/artists/ fashionistas? Nothing is ever as easy as you think it’s going to be and everything takes more time than you think it will. There is nothing more satisfying than doing something you love every day. So, if designing is your passion, it’s worth it. What inspires you? Do you have any major influences on your design aesthetics? I (Amy) am inspired by literally everything – especially other fashion. If I am walking on the street and see somebody wearing a dress with these amazing details, I will try to find a way to turn it into a headband. I was an Art History major in college so I love to just walk through the MOMA and look for patterns or color schemes that stand out to me. My business partner and I have always been very into film – a lot of what we’ve done so far has been inspired by movies that we haven’t been able to stop watching. Lastly, Summer or Winter? Summer, definitely summer! You don’t have to worry about covering your headband with a hat!
http://www.aurevoirsimone.com/site.html
Kyle Camping
Emma Garcia (9) talks with the Business Director of web design house designedmemory about his job and the importance of web design today. http://www.designedmemory.com/ Kyle Camping grew up in a small town in upstate NY and describes himself as “a typical, suburban, middle-class American.” When growing up Kyle became very artistic, and he felt a special passion for theatre specifically. So in high school and college he worked to get his bachelor’s degree in technical theatre. After college, Kyle snagged a job at Williamson PR & Showroom, a wholesale sales representative and public relations firm for high-end designers. There he made the connections that would lead him to work at designedmemory, one of the most sought after web design companies today. Kyle works at designedmemory as a business director. However, unlike what you may think, he is directly involved in the creative process of making websites. “I book new projects, write the schedule, liaise with clients, hire contractors, pay the bills, and invest our capital,” Camping says. “[But] I also shoot and edit video, hand paint fonts, update code, and write press releases.”
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designedmemory considers ‘site design to be nothing more than the appropriate way for a user to interact with content online’ says Kyle.
http://www.chris-benz.com/
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Designedmemory is so highly sought after because of the uniqueness and quality of its work. At designedmemory the mentality is all about doing the best work possible, the most efficiently. “Some days are packed with meetings,” says Kyle. “We are a very mobile company, so we reject the notion of structure for structure’s sake. We do what is most efficient at the time.” According to Kyle, designedmemory considers, “site design to be nothing more than the appropriate way for a user to interact with content online. Design must have a purpose. If you can’t justify it in writing, throw it out.” Therefore, designedmemory concentrates on making websites “dynamic and vivid and interactive.” When detailing the process of creating a website Kyle says, “It starts with extensive discovery of the client’s brand identity, then we create broad concepts for design using black marker on white paper, which move to fully visualized static computer comps, and finally live interactive development and coding. The average project takes five months.” In the end, it is obvious that the amount of
GET ONLINE: Top to bottom: Clients of ddesignedmemory, including band Au Revoir Simone and designer Chris Benz.
effort Designedmemory exerts certainly accomplishes its goal of creating immersive websites. When navigating one of the websites it has designed, you may notice that things are constantly moving. This creates the feeling that what is happening in the website is happening live. Then the transitions from link to link make you feel as if you are in the site, as if it was a gallery you are visiting. The transitions are smooth, and move cleanly from one image to another, much like if you were to walk from one destination to the next. As you might imagine, the patience and time put in by designedmemory has certainly paid off. It is apparent not only is its work phenomenal, but it also gets the recognition it deserves. Publications such as style.com, WWD, etc. have critically acclaimed designedmemory’s innovation. As of now we think of web pages that are plain and uninteresting, but with designedmemory on the internet scene now, that’s going to change.
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s t n i r
p charming
magica darabundit (11) and daphne taranto (11) style student models in fashion-forward printed tees and painted skirts, all made by f.a.d. staff
STYLING by Daphne Taranto (11) and Magica Darabundit (11), MAKEUP by Nicole Dalessandro (11), ASSISTED by Lia Ehrlich (10) and Arlinda Hasandjekaj (11). PHOTO EDITING by Daphne Taranto (11) and Nicole Dalessandro (11), LAYOUT and TEXT by Daphne Taranto (11). SHOT ON LOCATION AT HORACE MANN SCHOOL.
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ethan (12) wears a silkscreened t-shirt customized by devon mcmahon (11); henry (9) wears an ombre t-shirt customized by daphne taranto (11); pierre-alexandre (10) wears silkscreened t-shirt customized by daphne (11) wears an airbrushed t-shirt customized by magiHorace Mann School taranto (11); jack ca darabundit (11). all other clothes, models’ own. necklace, stylist’s own. Photo by CHONG WI (9).
PAPER CUT
carla wears a purple braided top by daphne taranto (11), paper pleat skirt by alice taranto (11); charlotte wears a silkscreened paper top and black jersey skirt by daphne; zoe wears a yellow bustier top by zoe kestan (11), paper painted skirt by alice; all tights + shoes are stylists’ own. all pink hair bows throughout by zoe kestan (11) and rachel scheinfeld (10). all makeup by nicole dalessandro (11).
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Rock, PAPER, SCissors henry (9) wears a green ombre shirt customized by daphne taranto (11), necklace and watch are stylist’s own. charlotte (11) wears a silkscreened paper top and black jersey skirt made by daphne taranto (11), necklace is model’s own. PHOTO BY MEGAN LU (11).
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“
every day is a talent show! wear your selfmade clothes and accessories to school
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SPAM MALE
zoe (12) wears a yellow bustier top by zoe kestan (11), paper painted skirt by alice taranto (11); ethan (12) wears a silkscreened shirt customized by devon mcmahon (11). carla (11) wears a purple braided top by daphne taranto f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design (11), paper pleat skirt by alice taranto (11); all ladies’ tights + shoes are stylists’ own; all guys’ pants, shoes, 39 glasses are models’ own, guy’s necklace is stylist’s own. PHOTO BY MEGAN LU2010 (11). spring
what a
fine art
Conceptualized Conceptualized by by Zoe Zoe Kestan Kestan (11), (11), Hair Hair design design by by Diana Diana Rheinstein Rheinstein (9), (9), MakeMakeup up design design by by Nicole Nicole Dalessandro Dalessandro (11), (11), Assistants Assistants Diana Diana Rheinstein Rheinstein (9) (9) and and Alice Alice Taranto Taranto (11), (11), Assistant Assistant Stylist Stylist Daphne Daphne Taranto Taranto (11) (11) and and Paige Paige Burris Burris (9), (9), PhoPhotographers tographers Anne Anne Schechner Schechner (11), (11), Zoe Zoe Kestan Kestan (11), (11), Daphne Daphne Taranto Taranto (11). (11). Model Model Nicole Nicole Bleuel Bleuel (12) (12) f.a.d. asked art history teacher Avram Schlesinger to give us his favorite pieces of art. He came back to us with his most frequently visited pieces, including the major mediums of sculpture, drawing, painting, and furniture design. Zoe Kestan (11) conceptualized a photoshoot inspired by four of Mr. Schlesinger’s choices. f.a.d. borrowed pieces from Horace Mann’s own resplendent, little-known Costume Shop to style the looks. 8 f.a.d. members met over the Spring Break to execute the photoshoot. In each look, the clothing choices, poses, makeup, and scenery were inspired by Mr. Schlesinger’s choices. Enjoy!
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o
B Louise
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pid S ’ s i o urge
CREEPY CRAWLIES: Nicole (12) wears a strapless black dress courtesy of the Horace Mann costume shop. Chain necklace by Alice Taranto (11). Beetle Pin, stylist’s own. Manicure by Alice Taranto (11). f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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Michelangelo’s Libyan Sibyl Drawing Nicole (12) strikes quite the dramatic pose. White lace top and taupe sheer skirt courtesy of Horace Mann Costume Shop; feather ruff and bootie heels, stylst’s own. Horace Mann School 42
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LEAN ON ME: Nicole (12) lounges beautifully on a tree trunk. The East Coast’s major rainstorm felled many trees and power lines. How could f.a.d. have let this chance slip by? Nicole wears a floral dress, couresty of Horace Mann Costume Shop; Sparkly cape (worn as belt), feathered cape, gold bangles, mesh high (!) heels, all stylists’ own.
y
b g r e Dress, Oscarbde m e la Renta, Nur gold
lm e s An
chain bracelet, courtesy of the Horace Mann costume shop. Shoes, Christopher Kane for Topshop. Black feather capelet, gold beaded belt, and various gold bracelets, all stylHorace Mann School 44 own. ist’s
r
fe Kie
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PULL UP A CHAIR: Nicole (12) wears a black leather skirt, courtesy of the Horace Mann costume shop. Shoes, stylist’s own. Brown felt and various other fabrics, hand constructed by stylists.
Wasil ly Marce Chair by l Breu er f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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clowning around
Student makeup artists Nicole Dalessandro (11) and Daphne Taranto (11) envisions a playful world of circus characters and bowtiewearers.
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Photographed by Anne Schechner (11) and Daphne Taranto (11). Assisted/styled by Zoe Kestan (11) and Alice Taranto (11). Student models Diana (9) and Yasmin (11). Shot in New Rochelle, NY.
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D.I.Y.! this makeup mask is made entirely of storebought eyeshadow and is kept in line with generic medical tape.
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UP DO: Diana (9) had her face taped off and made up for this mask-like look. Necklace by Alice Taranto (11); Sparkly bow clip, and cat dress, stylist’s own. f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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Yasmin (11) Says
I always love modeling for FAD. Even though the application of makeup and shooting can collectively take a while (one of the issue 3 makeup features took about an hour and a half), it’s never boring. It’s interesting to wonder what you will look like while the makeup artist applies the makeup, and then how the pictures will come out after. My favorite part is when you get to see, after all the work, how it all came out and I’m especially looking forward to see the shoot as part of the magazine in issue 3. Every look is unique and each shoot is a little different. There are special aspects to each. I thought the combination of bottom eyelashes, circle cheeks and heart lips was really innovative and fun to work with. Having the issue 3 shoot outside was also really helpful because the atmosphere added another dimension. The whole effort, from makeup to posing suggestions, is collaborative so the shoot can have as many angles and opinions as possible so it can be the best it can be, but also make it to that much more enjoyable. This page: Yasmin (11) wears a clowninfluenced look with a heart-shaped mouth and larger-than-life lower lid lashes. Earrings, teal shirt, hairbow, stylists’ own; manicure by Alice Taranto (11). That page: Diana (9) shows off her Granny Smith apple green nails and dark, romantic makeup. Tulle shirt stylist’s own; Fake flower courtesy of Horace Mann Costume Shop; manicure by Daphne Taranto (11). 50
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Be inspired by anything from Alice in Wonderland to flamenco dancing. f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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TEENY BOPPERS
Text by Chloe Kling (11) and Daphne Taranto (11), Layout + Photography by Daphne Taranto (11).
FAD Mag took a field trip to Teen Vogue magazine’s offices in January - we asked questions around the office and here’s what the Teen Vogue staff had to say. Eva Chen is the beauty editor at Teen Vogue. After having studied as a premed student and having worked at Harper’s Bazaar, Lucky Magazine, and Elle Magazine, Chen has worked her way up for several years with four years at Teen Vogue under her studded and bejeweled belt. One day, Chen got a call from the editor in chief of Teen Vogue, and after taking the editorial test - which is the “SATs of the magazine world” - she got the job, and has been there ever since! She now does less writing than she did previously because a lot of her job is administrative. Sounds like a fun work week! But what does Chen do on a day-to-day basis? As a beauty editor, Chen attends events representing Teen Vogue, visits photo shoots, and deals with makeup, perfume, and accessories. All things beauty-related are sent to Chen six months before they come out. She also covers the health section, which includes everything ranging from straightforward medical maters to issues like alcohol, drugs, eating disorders, psychology and self-esteem. As a fashion magazine for a “younger set,” Teen Vogue’s distinctive style is eclectic, off beat, never perfectly matched, and encourages personal expression. FAD gets the scoop at the Teen Vogue offices when our staff asked Chen questions! How much affiliation does Teen Vogue have with Vogue? Good question: a lot! We’re really lucky because we have the Vogue brand in our name, so we basically work with all the same photographers. And everyone has a counterpart at the other magazine, like there’s me and then the beauty editor at Vogue, and we’ll be invited together to go to events. So it’s nice to have the interaction. And yes, Anna Wintour (editor in chief of US Vogue) does approve every single thing that goes into the magazines, literally down to, “I don’t like that Teen Vogue is written in yellow,” and we’ll change it. Because at the end of the day, she’s the boss, the one who call’s the shots, along with our editor in chief. They together decide everything down to the colors and lettering on every page. I don’t know how either of them sleep, because they literally oversee everything. But at the end of the day it’s also their responsibility to hire really great team members, so they can delegate responsibility. You mentioned The Devil Wears Prada - what do you think of
Editor in chief Amy Astley’s pristine white office! Amy is hard at work at her desk. that and shows like Ugly Betty (RIP) or media that show the fashion world? I feel that anything that draws attention to the fashion world and industry in general and kind of takes the veil away from it is good thing. However, there is a nugget of wisdom to them, it’s not a huge nugget, but there is definitely some.
As a final question, what is your advice for people who want to work in magazines or students who are rising fashionistas, bloggers, or artists? I think it’s so inspiring when I meet a teenager with a blog, so definitely if you guys have blogs or work for the school paper or magazine, anything you can start is good to practice now. And you don’t know – your blog could be the next Tavi (stylerookie.com) or Jane Aldridge (seaofshoes.com) (see FAD’s features on these two on p 12). High school counts – anything you do now that demonstrates long-term interest in something can only help you later. Also it’s important to be patient and stay down to earth. No matter how smart you are, you have to work your way up from the bottom, especially when you are interning. Take classes in whatever interests you and what you do well in. Listen to your instincts and follow your gut. Most importantly right now is to enjoy being in high school and college and being able to dabble in everything and try row, left to right: Gina (12), everything you like. (11), Chloe (11), Noah (9). Bottom row, left to right:
A group shot outside the offices as our field trip came to a close. Top Zoe (11), Jenny (11), Magica (11), Charlotte Daphne (11), Rena (12), Zoe (12), Alice (11), Rachel (10). Not present in photo: Vivien (9) and Ms. Alicia Hines (advisor/chaperone). Photo by Hines. 52
Horace Mann School
“After I get the inspiration from stylists or other editors, my job is to call in accessories that I feel like fit the theme. We do everything from bags to belts to costume jewelry. Organization is very important and you have to have a really good memory to be on top of everything. We work really closely with the fashion department and the stylists to make sure that the looks are really cohesive throughout all the pulls. We work together as one big team.”
Mary-Kate, market editor
SHIONA,
“We Accessories Editor go out to all the showrooms in the city or go through all the lookbooks and pull samples that correspond with the stylists’ visions. We usually get about ten racks of clothing for one shoot, then the stylist comes in and sorts what he or she loves or doesn’t want to keep, and we’ll narrow it down to about five racks that will go to the shoot, which end up with about one rack of clothing in the actual magazine spread. I never know what season it is or what season I’m shopping for because we’re in such a time warp! We’ll be shooting for spring, but holiday is still in the windows and the fall fashion shows are about to start.”
EJ, Web Director
Jane Keltner, Fashion
Lara, Bookings Director
Jane, Beauty and Health writer
“I love DIY because it gives us an opportunity to promote young design talent and feature designers that we might not otherwise be able to feature in the magazine. I try to pick people who are young and buzzed about before they really break out into the big leagues. I do all of the fashion features and news stories and the stories called “View,” “Checklist,” and the personal style pages which are at the back and front of the book. I go to all the shows in New York and Paris and am constantly talking with designers and meeting with girls like you, getting story ideas and inspiration. I love my job because I’m not just sitting behind a desk all day – I do writing and editing but I also help put together the shoots, come up with the story ideas and get to be involved with a little of everything.”
“I Features Director run the website, so basically my job is to oversee everything that goes on at TeenVogue.com and I have a team behind me that is always working. It’s my responsibility to update the site every day. It’s a great place to talk to our readers on a daily basis through blogs, Facebook, and Twitter versus with the magazine you can talk to readers only ten times a year. You can do a lot more with a website than with a magazine because online you can get behind the scenes footage, bloggers of the week, giveaways and such. The readers drive a lot of the content on the site whether it’s through forums or comments on the blog.”
ue
vog n e e t f es o
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past iss
As Eva said, “Lara’s job is to be able to identify the next big models as they come through her office.”
Leigh Bells, Features Director
“I’m the features director, which means I kind of do a little bit of everything. I’m not really super fashion-related but almost everything else – I do music, pop culture, the stories on the front of the cover like hot topics and special issues or reports in the news or real girl stories. That’s me. It’s kind of a mix, but it’s definitely fun.”
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inwonderland
f.a.d. reviews Alice In Wonderland’s influence on the fashion world. Justin Burris (11), Alex Powell (9), and Danielle Marcano (11), exhibit their own work inspired by the tale.
@ HM
“Wonderhouse” by Justin Burris (11)
lusions are strewn throughout the house and can dramatically alter the experience of moving through it depending on the position of the viewer. Chief among these illusions is the main stairwell, which consists of seemingly hovering (but actually connected through the wall) ruby slabs that get progressively shorter as you ascend, making the distance appear as if it is growing longer.
Who says surrealist architecture can’t exist (besides Dalí, that is)? This trippy single family residence is inspired by Alice in Wonderland. Elements of Lewis Carroll’s nonsensical novel fill the house with checkerboard patterns, playing card motifs, and even the White Rabbit make appearances. Like the novel, this house also contends with the idea of the subjectivity of logic; optical il-
AIW-Inspired Sketches by Alex Powell (9) I got a lot of my inspiration from both the Tim Burton and the Disney versions of the movie. My ideas tried to incorporate both of the styles from both movies. To me Alice in Wonderland means a type of utopia, even though bad things happen when she in wonderland it is her dreamland. Wonderland means a place of beauty and an imaginary realm of marvels so I associate that with a type of dreaming. The new movie was amazing, I loved the depth of the characters, and Tim Burton really did wonders with it. Although a lot of people didn’t like the beginning of the movie, I really didn’t have a problem with the whole marriage scene, I thought it was a cute way to want
painting by Danielle Marcano (11)
artist’s statement
to get out of the “real” world. Well I would love to see them in 3-D, but it seems to loose something from the mystery of the drawing because all the details need to be perfected. Well I used the original where I look at pictures of the characters, and I watched both of the movies prior to sketching to get the essence of the characters and hoping to get that in my croquis.
noted: Versace SS10 by Diva Gattani (9)
Before Versace, Alice In Wonderland was just thought of as a movie filled with the magical ideas of shrinking potions, tea parties, talking rabbits, a Mad Hatter, and a Queen of Hearts who has an abnormally large head. However, true magic is Versace’s new Haute Couture Spring 2010 collection based on the Alice In Wonderland movie by Tim Burton. Pieces display fabrics printed with clocks, playing cards, butterflies, and rabbits combined with geometric patterns. Hemlines are shorter, heels are higher, colors are lighter, and evening gowns are cutout to look exotic. Although Donatella Versace based this collection on fantasy and magic, she still kept some metallic studs and chain mail to keep the pieces looking off beat and daring. The collection is perfect for a youthful group of people and the patterns and pastel colors will allow consumers to have fun with these pieces. This collection will soon be released to the public later on in March, and will defiantly turn ordinary closets into Wonderland.
AIW- Tom Binns by Vasilisa Sokolova (9)
Tom Binns is collaborating with Disney to produce a collection inspired by Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland. This movie is certain to be big, and Disney made sure – they showcased the jewelry collection in Las Vegas at the MAGIC marketplace, an international fashion trade event (see p.21). Tom Binns is creating the high end Tom Binns for Walt Disney Signature limited edition collection, which will be based on our favorite story characters. It will consist of just 6 pieces, and will be priced at $1000$3000; this collection will be available through luxury retailers and fine boutiques. A cheaper Tom Binns for Disney Couture collection will consist of 35 pieces, and prices will range from $100 to $500. “It opens up a labyrinth of doors for my particular way of seeing the world, allowing me to express my fashion experience with my interest in art and cinema,” Tom Binns said of the collaboration.
check out FAD’s cover inspired by AIW on p.2 !
DIYPillowcase Skirt who said pillowcases are just for sleeping? this simple skirt DIY by noah margulis (9) is anything but a snooze.
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Cut the closed end of the pillowcase at the desired length of your skirt.
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Cut 6” up the sides of the pillowcase at the bottom.
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Cut 5 slits with your scissors through both layers, along the side of the part you just cut. Thread ribbon through the top 2 slits.
what you’ll need pillowcase, rib-
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bon, scissors, safety pins, ruler or tape measure
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Weave the ribbons separately on each side, in and out of the slits. Pull the 2 ends of the ribbon and tie a bow to gather the skirt’s bottom.
At the top of the skirt, cut 2 slits through 1 layer of fabric. Attach a safety pin to the rest of the ribbon, and put it into 1 slit.
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tips + tricks
If you own pinking shears, use them on the edges to minimize fraying. Also, try childhood pillowcases - Disney characters look great!
Put the skirt on and tie the ribbons at the top to secure it on. Enjoy!
Hold onto the safety pin and gather the fabric around it until it comes out the other slit. Voilá, drawstring! f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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more to say: continued text continued from our interview with
Elisa Jimenez (p.31) me all the hand work and creative pattern making starting at 5ys. I went to a high school for visual and performing arts which was patterned after La Guardia here in NY. Arts Magnet High School was relatively new and had been created to assist with desegregation, but for me and all the other creative “misfits”, it was Utopia: a place where high IQ and artistic talents were rewarded, not cause to be ostracized. Awesome. I have always delighted in dressing and living in the art of the moment and what I “feel’, but I recently saw a clip from a show where I had a short multi-bleached Davie Bowie hair-thang going on..and all I could think was, “I think I look like a musk-rat’.. and that’s insulting the musk rat..ack! Where does your inspiration come from? I am a voracious pyschopomp and bibliophile. Many of my ideas are completly intuitive and playful, but heavily influenced by information or research I have come across. I adore infusing my fashion work with storytelling, mythology, social reform, alchemy and magic. I you want what everyone else has, fine. If you want something different, one-of-a-kind, personal, dare we say even exceptional..come to me. Your parents are artists, a graphic designer and a sculptor. How has this influenced you? Did you grow up knowing you wanted to do something artistic with your life? I knew I wanted and was going to be an artist for as long as I can remember. When people would ask me what I wanted to be when I grew up, I would answer, “Happy”. I am and was very fortunate to have hard-working, successful, visionaries as parents. I was always encouraged, critiqued, and challenged with anecdotes and their example: such as, my father, the late 20th century sculptor Luis Jimenez, would always say, “Don’t compare yourself to everyone else, they might not be any good. Compare yourself with own expectations of excellence, because then you will always go farther.” Or my mother, Vicky Balcou head designer for Fitz & Floyd for some 20yrs, would say “There are those who do. There are those who follow or support. And, there are those who do neither. Watch out for the last ones, for they will try to destroy the other two.” These types of consistent dialogues about creative people and their importance in society fueled my security in knowing a life of art was without a doubt possible...maybe not always easy, but definitely possible. It is the foundation by which I can nurture my daughter to be able to manifest any life she desires.
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of Fashion about a brand new fashion reality show called, “Project Runway”. I competed and was accepted for the first season, however, I was just launching a new line inspired by my hand drawn tshirts at Urban Outfitters flagship store in London, as well as preparing for Ny Fashion Week with a couture collection in conjunction with Cristo’s “Gates” project in Central Park, plus, I didn’t want to leave away from my daughter who was then only 8, so I thanked them and turned it down. While my daughterand I were in London, we were hit as pediestrians by someone jumping the light. After that my daughter asked if I would try for “Project Runway” again. So, I did. What I carried most away from my “Project Runway” experience were the friendships of my peers. We are all so talented and it was very much like fashion-art camp without the outdoors. It was an enlightening and vivifying experience. When you ask if any of the designers or Tim Gunn affected my aesthetic I must answer in a no and yes and no. I already had had an incredibly blessed and successful fashion and art career doing things exactly because and how I did them, and that did not change, but grew. However, I did turn around, by a machine, and not just any machine, an industrial, and do an entire high-end eco collection called “Urban Nomads” completely on machine with turn of century detailing and avant-tailoring. I wanted to show that like e.e.cummings who could write phenominal prose, I create the way I do because I choose to..not because I don’t know how the “normal” way. When I was ‘aufed’, I was truly relieved. I had clarified for myself that I am an artist who does fashion. Both mediums being highly subjective, I might as well do them on my own terms. I understand that you were able to show a Fall 2008 Collection. What were that experience like and how much work does it really take to put on a fullfledged show? I did show collections in 2008, and have been showing collections during NY and sometimes LA Fashion Weeks since my first show in 95. I have been blessed in my fashion experience, sometimes receiving sponsorships like from Aveda, Nike, or Audi. Other times, receiving shows as a component of recognition, such as my show at Bryant Park, being chosen by Vogue as one of America’s top 10 independent designers, or by Chris Townsend of The Barbican in London for his book and exhibition, “Rapture: Arts fascination with Fashion since the ‘70s”. I have shown in all kinds of venues and have had gallery representation for a good deal of my career. I love the comrodery and hard work of putting on a show and hope to include a “grassroots” production component when I come to visit, because I have continuously put on shows and created collections on what most people in the industry would consider remarkably conservative budgets. I like to do work on a clever budget. I find it empowering and practical. Fashion week for Fall/Winter 2010/2011 was just shown for the last time at Bryant Park, how do you feel about the move of location to Lincoln Center? I feel the move to Lincoln Center will be good for everyone. Change, after all, is the only constant. It is important to have a variety of venues for designers, in addition to “the tents”, because sometimes that status comes at a prohibitive price for the emerging or independent designer. What is essential is being listed on Ruth Finnley’s Fashion Calendar produced all year, and the bible for shows during the Fashion Weeks. It is well worth the money and the ladies who do it are amazing.
Can you tell FAD about the Hunger World? When did you being the project and why did you choose the name? The Hunger World is a pseudo-ficticious world that is motivated by hunger in its all propensities: intellectual, spiritual, emotional, sexual,etc. When I was younger and The Hunger World first came to me in graduate school at age, 22, it was just about the hungers, but after I had my daughter, Calliope in 96, I finally understood the nurturing aspect of hunger and so The Hunger World evolved into the interplay of hungers and their respective fulfillments. The Hunger World came to me via 3 marionettes I had made and a continuous push I had been exerting on myself since my teens for artwork with was rich in the experiential and therefore included more than one media. The Hunger World become the clear foundation for any creation I cared to manifest because conceptually it was contained. I had been given a vehicle for my own mythology and symbolism to synthesize. Its fun.
What’s your favorite new trend for spring? Confidence, individual expression, and joy. Always the best trends, dont’cha think?! Me personally? My daughter picked out these short purple, heeled boots for me that make me feel fabulous. They aren’t like anything I have ever worn, but now they are my new favorite things.
What did you gain from participating in project runway? Did Tim Gunn or the other designers or judges’ affect your aesthetic? What was it like being ‘aufed’? Can you tell us about the experience? The most powerful thing I gained from doing Project Runway was being able to do it for my daughter, Calliope. Personally, I did it as a vision quest slash creative-socio-anthropological experiment. In 2004 I had been contacted as Alum of Gen Arts Fresh Faces
continued from our interview with
Horace Mann School
What advice would you give to young people interested and who want to get involved in the fashion industry? My advise to any young person interested in the fashion business is the same as my advise to any young person who has a passion about anything..stay true to yourself! Really,work hard, surround yourself with positive and real people, stay true to yourself, your standards, and your morals. If you have a vision, don’t let anyone or anything And finally, Plain or Peanut M&M’s? Plain, and I just ate a bag in honor of FAD. (*>.<*)
Lynn Yaeger (p.33)
would get on the subway, I would think I look kind of cute, and see some other girl and think, “Oh, she looks way cuter.” And it would sort of ruin my whole day! I’m sure that girl is still on the subway, but I don’t see her any more. It’s a funny thing that happened. For people who are not familiar with your look now, [Yaeger laughs], while the people in the fashion world have seen your picture on even Scott Schuman’s street
style blog The Sartorialist on April 4th… There was quite a little discussion on The Sartorialist! It was very freaky for me. Imagine if that were you! I was obsessed with reading all the comments, but then if one of them was mean I would say, “Oh, that’s so mean!!” But it was mostly nice, it was good, it was ok. Could you explain your look that you go for these days, and if you’re recognized on the street because it’s so distinctive? Well, sometimes I am recognized, not non-stop, but yes, sometimes I do get recognized. I would say it has a lot of themes – it was based on a 1920s feeling, which I thought suited my looks much better than things that are in style now. I am a big doll collector, and I kind of like the way dolls look – that sort of influenced my look. You are a big collector, especially via eBay purchases, right? Yeah, and antique markets, flea markets, a lot of 1920s photography, early movies…that look suited me better I thought. Although I buy a lot of things now – I mean my clothes are not vintage, they’re all new, and it’s just curated in this funny way. I remember talking to this woman once at a fashion party, and she asked, “Which things are you buying from the new collections?” And I was just like, “Well, I’m just buying the things that work for me, not the other way around.” If there’s something from the collection that fits into the sensibility that I have, then I’m interested in it. But I don’t change with the trends or anything. Right, like you wouldn’t bend over backwards to suit someone else. No, but I’m pretty happy that the stores sort of coincide with what I like – for example, everybody’s doing my little flat lace-up shoes now! There are millions of them – which is nice, because I know they’re going to go away and then there won’t be any, but they’re everywhere now. So, you know, it’s kind of fun! How do you think that fashion, art, and design merge, or where is there, if at all, a line between fashion and art for you? Well, to me fashion’s not really art. I mean, to me fashion is to be worn and to be loved. I don’t think of it as art, and I never had too much interest in couture. Harold Koda, who is now the curator at the Met Costume Institute, is a friend of mine. We’ve had this long-running discussion for years. He’ll say to me, “Oh, the stitching on the couture is so exquisite and these garments are so beautiful.” I don’t even notice that! For me, it’s much more about the social context of clothes. I’m much more interested in the historical aspect of why people looked the way they did at a certain time. I’m very interested in the late 19th century when all of a sudden there was enough money around for everybody to have a hairpin or a sweater… I’m much more interested in a sociological take on fashion than the art take. I got to exhibits of clothes, but it’s not as exciting to me as seeing documentary pictures from the 1910s or something. Well, that interest of yours probably contributes to your look with referencing time periods and all of that. Yes, probably! What do you think, since you were saying before about the comments on The Sartorialist, about the kinds of reception you can get online? What has been your feedback or involvement with the Internet and its growing popularity? I don’t do Facebook or Twitter, which I know is weird, but I kind of remain a little mysterious in my life. The internet is very strange because the comments are anonymous, and sometimes somebody will say something really mean, and I have a lot of thoughts about that: Sometimes I think the person who puts the meanest thing up is really the person who is secretly attracted to they way you look, like the mean kid in school. But with the Internet it’s very odd to be a fashion critic when everyone else can chime in and everyone’s opinion is as valid as everyone else’s, even if some people get paid and some don’t. In terms of people’s reactions to my look, if you’re a writer you’re a bit of a public figure. Eleanor Roosevelt said that you have to have skin as thick as a rhinoceros. And she was right! You know, people will say mean things sometimes, or more likely write mean things, but you have to just not care! You sort of belong to the public in this funny way. What do you think of the positives that can be had from the Internet, like Julia Frakes’ blog Bunny Bisous… I know Julia! Do you know Julia? Not personally! But I have seen her in PAPER Magazine and on her own blog and other places. What do you think of all of the young people who can network and get themselves out there, who otherwise wouldn’t be able to, if the Internet and blogs weren’t available? To be honest, I think it’s great that all the collections are up right away… I like to have things as democratic as possible, to sort of belong to everybody. I think it’s fine. I’m a little taken aback by how smart people are about clothes! You know, I love movies so I’m on the IMDB website a lot where people review old movies, and the attention that people have and their critical focus that they can bring to things when they’re not even being paid is really impressive. Or even with The Sartorialist comments about me a lot of people had very sophisticated references to things that
more to say: continued text have influenced me – I think it’s great, it’s a wonderful community. It’s fabulous! What do you think? I think that there are definitely people like Tavi, or people of any age who could be picked up by a magazine or start a column with their blog… I think that that’s so cool these days. It’s pretty fabulous! What are you doing these days, on a day-to-day basis, and what would your everyday schedule look like, if there were one? I do a lot of work for Vogue and Vogue.com, and I write a weekly blog for the Sundance Network for Full Frontal Fashion – those are the steady things that I’m doing. And I write for Travel + Leisure, I’m going to go out to LA in a few weeks for them. Then I have various freelance things going – like during the collections, I review the collections for New York Magazine. I have different relationships with different publications. A typical day… Well, I like to go shopping every day, so a typical day usually has some writing in the morning. But with the writing, I have to tell you, it’s mostly emailing people to interview and set up these things – the actual writing, when you actually get to sit down and write, it’s such a treat, after trying to get quotes from all these people! That’s kind of the hardest part of the job, don’t you think? [laughs] That technical part. Like I’m waiting to get a call from Christopher Bailey from Burberry for a Vogue.com piece, and I’ve heard back from some people from this piece but not other people, so if he by some miracle responds by tomorrow morning, I would try to write up before I go out this Vogue.com piece that he’s supposed to be featured in. But if I don’t hear from him, then I don’t know what I’m going to do. I’m very good friends with Michael Musto, who is the Gossip Columnist at the Voice, and I have lunch with him every day. So it’s great when you’re a freelancer to have this permanent date, so you know you can’t just sit here in your pajamas watching Beverly Hills 90210 reruns on Soap Net, which I also do watch when I’m home. Well, networking is like a full-time job! Well, [laughs], I’m not that much of a networker! I don’t know! But I did like the publication [f.a.d.], because it was serious, which I liked. I don’t like that sort of “fan” thing with fashion. I don’t like when people are obsessed with models’ names, or celebrities, I find that kind of icky, but I thought the publication was quite serious, which I kind of loved. Thank You’re welcome!
you!
Another question – where is your favorite place to go shopping? You live in New York, and many of the people from Horace Mann live in the city too. I’m wondering if they wanted to kind of pad around some of your favorite spots, where would that be? Well, I’m very democratic when it comes to my shopping. I love Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys, because I like to look at all the collections under one roof, and places where the salespeople don’t bother you every second…but if you go in the Chloe boutique on Madison Avenue, you’re going to be the only one in there, and the salesperson is going to know what you want, which might be just nothing since you want to just look around and see the clothes in person. In a department store I feel much freer to do that. In terms of just walking around, I go everywhere. I go to the Meat Packing District, I love Comme de Garcons on 22nd street, I go downtown, I also love H+M and Zara, Forever21, Topshop… I try to go everywhere and take a very broad view of fashion and the different levels of things that are available. In my own experience, the cheapest thing that you buy you could love much more than the expensive thing. It isn’t always the case that the very expensive thing that you wanted so badly is the thing that works the best for you. You just don’t know, it’s a mystery! What are you wearing right now? Oh my gosh, you caught me on a good day, since I’m just going out to dinner! I’m wearing purple leggings, this net tutu thing from the Lilith store in Little Italy in NoLita, and over that I’m wearing a Comme de Garcons polka-dot skirt, and over that I’m wearing a
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more to say: continued text Marni smock that I got in the Marni outlet in Orlando, Florida. So it’s quite a day of funny clothes. And your usual makeup? Yes, my usual makeup! Because I always have my makeup. What are your favorite windows, between the Bergdorf’s or Barneys windows and the large-scale, 5th Avenue, NYC-only displays? You know, I think that Bergdorf’s has the most beautiful ones (see f.a.d.’s interview with Bergdorf Goodman’s own Linda Fargo in this issue), and it’s around Christmas that I think everything really shines. I’m a big window shopper. Let me think which windows do I really love…I love jewelry, I think Tiffany’s does a wonderful job with the windows... What advice do you have for people who are interested in fashion, journalism, being artists, bloggers, or any of the above? I don’t know if I have anything that hasn’t been said a million times before. Basically with writing you have to try to develop your own voice, have as much personality and yourself in the writing as possible – really practice, you have to write a lot. I feel like I still get better, I still am learning new tricks with the writing. With fashion, I think try to take it a little bit seriously. If there’s anything that annoys me about fashion it’s that it’s dismissed as trivial or not important – I think it’s just as interesting as theater or anything else. I guess you just have to work at it! But I know that that’s not really fresh advice. Where do you see yourself going in the future? Where can we expect to see you and your work in the days, months, and years ahead? Well, I don’t know – everyone asks me that. I only left the Voice a little more than a year ago, it was a kind of very traumatic experience. A lot of people tell me I should write a book, but I don’t seem to be able to buckle down and do that. So the answer is, “I don’t know!” That can be totally great too! Yes! And my last question, if you had to take one item to a desert island and it had to be all practical… People ask me this all the time! It’s always if, “There’s only one designer you can wear,” or “You can’t wear any designer clothes but there’ll be a cure for cancer, would you do it?” I’m familiar with this type of question. I get to bring one item to wear over and over again? Well, you can choose between blush and lipstick! Oh, lipstick!! Because I can make the lipstick into the blush, [laughs], but I can’t make the blush into the lipstick! That was easy. [laughs]
continued from our interview with
Linda Fargo (p.28)
although I’m not particularly agile at it, is that it opens the world up to make us truly global. I also like that given the nature of so much big social media, and I’ll use that word again, that there’s a dialogue – it’s not just for the brand to create content and put it out there and have no idea how it’s received. You’re able to actually hear from people. I think that that can become very useful and make more “friends” in the world. That’s very positive, that the internet can make the world more personal and commerce can start to feel friendlier. I like that idea, and also I think that because of the internet more people are able to be involved in fashion and make it a more viable industry. Are there some downsides? Sure – as soon a designer has something out on the runway, it’s easy for people now to copy quicker. That’s not positive, because if you’re a designer it’s still going to take a good five months to bring that design to market between the time to take the orders, get the fabric, cut it, sew it, etc. Especially the higher-end pieces are made with qual-
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Horace Mann School
ity, and there’s a level of craftsmanship that takes time, so unfortunately people are able to start knocking those things off faster even than the real originator is able to get the product to market. There are things that are a downside, but the net result is all positive. How do you think, since fashion is already a fast-paced industry, that the internet is affecting the industry? Is it speeding up, causing other problems, creating a time warp between seasons… There are questions being thrown around these days: Should we be doing runway shows in-season, versus out of season by 6 months, since the images will be on the internet anyway? We create these demands, but they’re frustrated demands since [the consumer] can’t get those things right away. I could argue this in both directions, but there are the frustrations that are definitely created by the instantaneousness of information, but again I still think that it will all go for the better. And listen, with speed the thing is that even this conversation will be different a year from now already! How do you spot a successful trend or a promising newcomer in the industry? Is there one designer or theme that is consistently outstanding for you? Well, that’s a very good question – underneath it all, I’m a consumer too, you know. When I or any of the buyers see something –let’s say it’s the legging or over-the-knee boot or “statement” shoes – all you know is that when you see it and you see it a couple of times and say, “Oh, I really like that, I really want that… I want it now,” you know – you start listening to yourself and say, “Well, if I want this now, other people will want this now.” It’s kind of instinctual – you start seeing, since you work with a team of people, you start elbowing each other and all concur that we are personally feeling turned on by it. That for us is the first litmus test that it’s probably going to be a trend with some traction. In terms of how you get a vibe for a designer, let’s say Alexander Wang – he’s not “new” any more, he’s emerged already – again, it’s the feeling you get. That excitement that you feel. That expression – “When in doubt, don’t” – if you’re feeling a little so-so and you have to talk yourself into something, or you say, “I like this, but I wish they hadn’t used so many of that…” or “I like that, but I don’t like the fabric,” or “I like it, but the print is really crazy for what it is…” If you end up in too many internal conversations, there’s probably a reason that you should wait and watch, see what they do next time or the time after that. Our store is very full – we have a lot of products and we don’t exactly have a lot of spare or open space lying around, so something’s got to be really compelling for us to create or carve out the space and open the buy. If you were to create a typical Bergdorf’s customer, or pinpoint the twist that Bergdorf presents compared to the other luxury department stores, what would you say that is? What makes it different? Hm… What makes Bergdorf’s, Bergdorf’s? Well, I’m happy to say that I think we have a real wonderful diversity of products and clients. I think we’re a store that embraces heritage and classicism, as well as modernism and futurism – I think it’s that range which is particular to us – our store is over 100 years old and we’ve always stood for great service and fashion authority. I think that people come here and they know they’re going to have a really high-quality, beautiful experience, all the way from being here to what they might find. I would like to hope that people find it approachable and a welcoming, graceful place. In terms of the Bergdorf’s experience, we’re all familiar with the Fifth Avenue holiday windows. What is your involvement with that? A video said that David Hoey… Yes, David is our window director now. I was the window director for many years and David was my production manager. When I moved to the fashion/ visual office, David took on more responsibility as the window director. We still collaborate, with themes or directions, but David is really the designer now. I work on the fashion and sometimes the styling, but David really designs the sets. Where do you see yourself going in the future? Where can we expect to see you in the years to come? [laughs] Goodness, I’m really not sure! I really love it here. Fortunately, as I said, no two days are the same, so I feel continually challenged by my work. I have a little bit of a fantasy (laughs) – I think everyone has one! – of maybe at one point just doing art for art’s sake and not necessarily working in combined art and commerce. Living a life devoted more purely to art and design. But that’s just a fantasy! [laughs] And my last question for you: just for kicks – Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2010 Armadillo shoes, or Nina Ricci’s Fall 2009 heel-less platforms? Oh, I love those shoes [McQueen.] Which one do I like better? This is very funny, really a cute question, those are both remarkable shoes… I would probably do the Nina Ricci shoe. It’s a little more flattering. They are both extreme, but I think the other one, for me personally, since you must take your own silhouette into consideration – I think I would really look even stranger in the Armadillo shoe! [laughs]
continued from Katie Dinan (11)’s
“Is Fur Making A Comeback?” (p.32)
pleasure of having a raccoon thrown on her plate while at a restaurant. PETA has had a lot to say about this influx of fur. For one, animal rights activists dismiss the idea of “ethical fur.” When asked about fur’s resurged popularity, PETA founder Ingrid Newkirk sees the designers who use fur as desperate. Creative designers can work without fur. Stella McCartney, for example, has successfully created her lines without fur or leather and has used other alternatives. PETA’s Vice President, Dan Matthews, explained how the fur’s appearance on the runways is delusional, as the products rarely end up in the stores. As fur makes a comeback, designers enter new territory in selling it. Sales can be lucrative, but finding the right market is a new task for these designers. As fur becomes popular among younger designers and is labeled as “trendy,” we should remember whose fur it is before making a purchase.
continued from our interview with
Molly Hanna Carey (p.26)
designers on finding and making their own unique styles and idea? As a designer you have to be aware of what is going on around you- and of course knowing what other designers are doing. What makes the difference is understanding why you like something and taking that concept and applying it to something new. On a typical workday, what would you be wearing? On a weekend? weekdays- depending on my mood: very casual (skinny jeans, heels, t-shirt and cardigan) to dressed up (bubble mini, platforms, chunky jewels) weekend- my new favorite high top sneakers Is their any age demographic that you aim to sell your clothes and jewelry to? I don’t really have an age demographic- its more of an attitude or lifestyle I like to design for. As a fashion designer, what is your typical day like? Do you work long hours or do you have a scheduled day and once you go home you are “off the hook” until the morning? The workday is typically a long one... at the office 9am and usually working until at least 8pm if not later. And there is definitely work on weekends too. A typical weekday: 9am-coffee, breakfast, hitting up favorite blogs.
po s ’s
t s i t ar
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h g i l t
10-1pm: following up on emails and open issues- meetings with various production teams and technical teams and merchants. 1-1:30: lunch- usually tacos these days... afternoon: meeting with outside vendors, running out of the office to meet with collaborators, sometimes shopping. late evening: working on designs for new seasons. Is there any quote or motto that you follow throughout your life? Tomorrow is a new day! What is your favorite comfort food? Steamed pork dumplings! Delish.
her statement: My painting analyzes how Richard Nixon attempted to use lies and cover-ups to get ahead in his political career but was blinded in the process. My idea stemmed from something Nixon said to his former law partner and close White House aide Leonard Garment: “You’re never going to make it in politics, Len. You just don’t know how to lie.” Hence the title of the piece, You Don’t Know How to Lie, a statement from and to Nixon. This painting confronts the source of the corruption and controversy, taking a zoomed-in look at the man behind the men and the scandal. I stretched the flag-blue velvet onto a 30x30” square frame. I used velvet simply for artistic reasons but also, as I made progress, for deeper meaning. As I stretched the material over the frame I positioned the grain of the velvet so when you run your hand left it is smooth and when you run your hand right it is rough. I interpret this as a representation of the different parties and how Nixon’s Republican career was so choppy.
Although Nixon thought of himself as one with Americans, his lies and disconnect between himself, his men, and the country ultimately caused his exposure and fall. Nixon was blindfolded in many ways – by his red vision of the communist world; his paranoia concerning the government, the media, and his own men; and his fear of civil rights activists and youth in revolt (to name a few). In a transcript of one of the tapes, he shouts at his press secretary, “‘Who are they [the You Don’t Know How to Lie enemies] after?... They’re after me, the President. They hate my guts.’ VHS, tape, stretched velvet, acrylic paint, white pencil. ”He blindfolded himself against the truth on television and in front of the American people. Likewise, he blinded them – few really knew 30x30” what was going on behind the scenes in the oval office and much of January 2010 the information was censored, as this strip of black tape appears across his eyes. This painting by Daphne Taranto (11) was a history assignment in-
spired by Richard Nixon. After reading her artist’s statement you can check it out on the second floor of Tillinghast hanging on a classroom wall!
f.a.d. mag, fashion/art/design spring 2010
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monday april 26 - friday april 30, 2010 MONDAY, April 26: Release of f.a.d.issue 3 and Fashion Design Club Show inspired by Jackie O. and 1950s pillbox style. Sidewalk outside of Tillinghast building, rain or shine.3:15 (i period).
TUESDAY, April 27: f.a.d. sponsored presentation of HM Costume Shop clothing alongside large-scale photo shoot print outs using the clothing. All day long!
WEDNESDAY,April 28: f.a.d. meets up with HM’s own Doc Film Club to watch The September Issue, a documentary about the inner workings of Vogue magazine. 60 Minutes producer David Gelber will be there to discuss with us all! 6:15 room 149T, expect pizza! THURSDAY, April 29:Former Project Runway contestant and practicing artist/fashion designer Elisa Jimenez (of spit-marked-fabric fame) visits HM to do a workshopwith us. 3:15 - 5:30 in Fischer Hall Rotunda. FRIDAY, April 30:HM’s Seniors will dance the night away at the Decades Dance. f.a.d.will host a live photobooth - Seniors, get your shot taken in your bell bottoms and poodle skirts + you’re automatically entered in the “Most Creative Costume” award! Cohen Dining Commons, about 7 pm.
ALL WELCOME FREE OF CHARGE Check our facebook page, click “I’m Attending,” and join the f.a.d. online community! WE HOPE TO SEE YOU THERE! YOU’RE IN FOR A REAL TREAT
check out all past issues online @ http://issuu.com/fadmag