fashion art design
vol. 2 no. 1
featuring interviews with
SUSY KORB + RIE NØRREGAARD IZZY GRINSPAN + LOCKHART STEELE
the interview issue!
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fad gets the scoop @ fashion’s night out TAVI GEVINSON DAPHNE GUINNESS ERIN WASSON MARCUS WAINWRIGHT KATE MULLEAVY JONATHAN ADLER
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
f.a.d. magazine 1 horace mann school autumn 2010
THE FAD-TASTIC CREATORS editorial board
zoe kestan ‘11 co-editor in chief
alice taranto ‘11 co-editor in chief
daphne taranto ‘11 features editor
baci weiler ‘12 co-junior editor
rachel scheinfeld ‘12 co-junior editor
veronica williamson ‘13 fashion design club co jr. president
justin burris ‘11 sr. design editor
noah margulis ‘13 fashion design club co jr. president
nicole dalessandro ‘11 sr. beauty editor
diana rheinstein ‘13 jr. beauty editor
paige burris ‘13 assist. jr. editor
lia ehrlich ‘12 managing editor
anne schechner ‘11 assist. photo editor
sarah sicular ‘11 sr. copy editor
sarah nishimura ‘11 Videographer
staff
antonio irizzary ‘12 carla thé ‘11 charlotte christman-cohen ‘11 clara pomi ‘13 julia pretsfelder ‘14 jessica heller ‘14 frances ikwuazom ‘11 julia hirschberg ‘13 lauren cantor ‘13 maia landesberg ‘13
Alicia Hines - Faculty Advisor 2
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siddharth saxena ‘11 anna goldberg ‘12 vivien ikwuazom ‘13 magica darabundit ‘11 michelle kim ‘14
fashion | art | design
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
FAD SPECIAL FEATURE: NYFW SS’11 page 8
View the forecast: TREND AROUND THE BEND page 16
all hallow’s eve
get your halloween on with our spooky fashion shoot page 40
DIY: BACI STYLE
check out how baci weiler ‘12 changes two pairs of jeans from ordinary to extraordinary! page 58
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FNO let’s go! page 10 STUDY UP:
The Physics of Fashion page 34
a week in the life of LIPS, Thailand’s top fashion mag page 20
times flying! NEW YORK MINUTE student-produced photo shoot p.46 PLEASE NOTE: As a policy, F.A.D. never digitally alters photos to fundamentally change a model’s appearance, including body image and color. F.A.D. only removes minor blemishes and adjusts lighting values at the discretion of the editors and the models themselves. Digital editing, including the use of Adobe Photoshop, is credited where utilized.
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LETTER FROM THE EDITORS Welcome to F.A.D. Volume 2! As the leaves turn and the air cools, you can’t help but be bombarded by such punny catchphrases as “Back to Cool!” and “Fall For Tights and Socks!” splattered across magazine covers everywhere. When thinking about what to focus on for this issue, we decided not to go the back-to-school route, but instead to create a year-long perspective. What can readers take from F.A.D. to guide them (if only through their closets) in the coming academic year? Well, we love to publish interviews with the words and advice of real-world design professionals in every issue. Why do we love a great interview so much? Because fashion and the industry can often seem overly glamorous, elite, inaccessible, and ultimately far away. HowAlice and Zoe with cover girl Frances at ever, fashion is as close as the shirt on your back! This is only proved the 2010 Fashion Design Club Show by such events as Fashion’s Night Out, the Vogue-sponsored worldwide extravaganza that just held its sophomore evening on September 10th. As the Editor of US Vogue, Anna Wintour, stated in an interview, the evening makes models, fashion celebrities, designers, and more of what readers want available to the public as they have never been. As special as FNO is for giving the public and Vogue readers a chance to see fashion firsthand, at F.A.D. we have a truly unique opportunity in the publishing world – we literally know our audience member for member, since the readers of F.A.D. are our classmates themselves! This allows us the opportunity to cater to our audience’s established interests and tastes with exceptional accuracy. However, we also always try to expose new parts of the fashion, art, and design worlds that might otherwise remain unknown. We love the idea of design and design knowledge for everyone, and – did you think you could escape this without an autumnal pun? – we hope you’ll fall in love with fashion as much as we do every day.
until next time, Alice Taranto ‘11 + Zoe Kestan ‘11
THE MAKING OF A FAD COVER thi s
BACK COVER INFO: Models Carla Thé ‘11, Diana Rheinstein ‘13, Siddharth Saxena ‘11 goof around in dresses by Alice Taranto ‘11, a gingham shirt by HM Alum Eli Chess’s Alabaster & Chess, and Beauty Design by Nicole Dalessandro ‘11.
sti ra ll ‘ ch 11 ‘s is fro This issue’s cover image was taken down e wa ck F video m Sa tch AD in Little Italy, as a part of our big NYC ra d the ’S F ocu Nis res B p men him shoot (p.46)! Originally, we hadn’t planned u ag t! e t tary- - for the cover to come from this set of imo -
ages, (we had planned on using one of the back cover images), but it was too good to resist. Antonio and Frances were both so fantastic- their energy was through the roof! Be sure to flip towards the back to see how the rest of their shots came out - and don’t hesitate to contribute to the cover of FAD next issue!
Front and Back covers photographed by Daphne Taranto ‘11
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From left to right: Daphne Taranto ‘11 photographs Antonio Irizarry ‘12 and Frances Ikwuazom ‘11: Antonio and Frances having fun on Mulberry Street, the cover image. For clothing credits, see p.53 fashion | art | design
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BEHIND THE SCENES VOL 2 No 1
f.a.d. staff members spent an entire weekend over HM’s summer break to put most of this issue together! For more behind the scenes photos, videos, and more, check out fadmag. wordpress.com
Continued thanks to art teacher Mr. Kim Do for his support, encouragement, and lighting kit.
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
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WE ABSORB CULTURE
f.a.d. staff recommend you check out these quick culture fixes this month
READ UP
THE TEEN VOGUE HANDBOOK: AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO CAREERS IN FASHION
The Teen Vogue Handbook: An Insider’s Guide To Careers In Fashion is a book published by Teen Vogue with a wide range of interviews from well-known designers like Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld to up and coming models like Chanel Iman. But the Handbook is not simply a megaissue of Teen Vogue; it’s more like a resource guide for anyone who wants to have a fashion related career. It’s full of tips such as which fashion schools to go to from editors and designers. But one of the best things about it is hearing all of the different places that people started and seeing where they got. - VERONICA WILLIAMSON ‘13
SHOP UP
CHEAP JACK’S: FASHION HOT SPOT Many people may wonder where designers such as Marc Jacobs and Tory Burch get inspiration for their collections. Look no further! Cheap Jack's is the haven for all designers and vintage lovers! Designers and shoppers alike come here to get one of a kind vintage pieces that can make you feel as if you are living in any decade. The friendly staff and huge store add to the charm of NYC's largest vintage store. PS - We hear top model Coco Rocha is a fan...Check out Cheap Jack’s out on 32nd Street and 5th Avenue right near New York City's Garment District! - RACHEL SCHEINFELD ‘12
http://www.cheapjacks.com/ “SPONGE” photo taken and digitally edited by DAPHNE TARANTO ‘11
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LISTEN UP
URBAN OUTFITTERS CONCERT SERIES
Shhh! The top-secret locations have not yet been revealed for Urban Outfitters + Levi’s Secret Generator Concert Series! Together they planned a series of free concerts all around the world (including NY), but here’s the catch-we won’t know where until they are happening. They will be giving out hints for locations on their Facebook page or you can text SECRET to UOUOYO (868686). The UO website said, “Here’s the deal: Each show is powered by a generator. That’s it. Which means these surprise shows can pop-up anywhere! Deerhunter’s playing on September 25, Neon Indian on October 3-will they be in your city?” Don’t miss this great opportunity! - RACHEL SCHEINFELD ‘12
http://blog.urbanoutfitters.com/blog/secret_ generator_series_announce?100906hp
WATCH IT BACK TO THE CLASSICS: CLUELESS Sometimes returning to the classics is all you need to put yourself in a good mood. We have all fawned over protagonist Cher’s closet and thought about whether we could pull the her style in the movie off right now. Next time you are looking for a fun movie or even need some inspiration for fashion designs, rent Clueless with Alicia Silverstone and Brittany Murphy! Grab a bowl of popcorn and enjoy the crazy lifestyle of these Beverly Hills teens. - RACHEL SCHEINFELD ‘12
fashion | art | design
GET THERE
GET THIS
GOVERNOR’S ISLAND: THE NEW WILLIAMSBURG?
PROTESTORS SWARM MICHAEL KORS ON FNO
Planning a cheap outing in NYC is probably one of the most difficult things to do. Luckily there’s Governor’s Island. This trendy park off the southern tip of Manhattan has become a hip go-to spot for relaxing and breathing fresh air in the city. A free ferry from the Financial District and from the Brooklyn Bridge Park takes you to an awesome getaway to picnic on the lawn, bicycle, see fantastic views of the Manhattan skyline and the Statue of Liberty, walk among the abandoned colonial buildings, and occasionally see concerts during the summer. For a modish and short, virtually free trip away from the city, check out Governor’s Island next summer. - NOAH MARGULIS ‘13
http://govislandblog.com/summer-ferry-schedule/
READ UP
P.S. I MADE THIS: BLOG TURNED BOOK It is always fun to wear stuff you make yourself, or atleast agrees blogger Erica Domesek. The motto behind her blog, P.S. I Made This, is “I see it. I like it. I make it.” Being able to say that you made it when someone asked you where you got that necklace or shirt is such a great feeling, and now you can make things with ease with Erica’s help! She recently turned her blog into a book, and there are a bunch of fun and easy DIY’s that are far from looking like arts and crafts projects! - RACHEL SCHEINFELD ‘12 http://www.ps-imadethis.com
Arriving early, into a swarm of other eager and not so experienced wanna-be fashionistas was not quite how I pictured my first Fashion’s Night Out. As Diana and I waited in a thirty-minute line to meet Michael Kors we overheard and saw outrageous fans scream and jump as they got seconds to meet and get photographed with Michael Kors himself. As we stepped up to the plate expecting to get a few answered interview questions, we were pushed into a small area where our bags were taken. The friendly gentleman smiled and fervently repeated (as he had several times before) “HI ladies, having fun tonight?” We nodded, bent down to snap a picture, received signed cards, and then were shoved away with the other hoards enthusiasts. Outside Bloomingdales, stood anti-Michael Kors protestors.Although they didn’t scare away any visitors, it made me stop for a minute tothink whom I was supporting, and amongst all the glamour, there can becorruption because not all fashion is always good fashion. To me, this ritual seems over marketed; as interesting as it to get a glimpse a famous designer, the payoff isn’t quite worth it. - LAUREN CANTOR ‘13 with DIANA RHEINSTEIN ‘13
see fad’s interview with erica on page 17!
SHOP UP
MNG by MANGO x JC PENNY Bite into one of Europe’s greatest line, Mango as it joins forces with JCPenny and transforms “JCPenny’s contemporary shopping experience” this fall. The launch of MNG, by Mango, one of Europe’s top lines, presents women with a new modern wardrobe consisting of career and casual women’s sportswear, handbags, accessories and footwear. Check out this MNG campaign image, featuring Scarlett Johansen! Dive into evening apparel then transform into a city girl; needless to say, this new line will leave you speechless and stylish! -VIVIEN IKWUAZOM ‘13
is h t on ht e r ig o N m ch ion’s ge to u h m a for rs Fas the p ure t yea , turn al fea shion t i Ou spec ork Fa ! our ew Y 2011 N on k SS e We
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Photo by Alice Taranto ‘11. Taken at the Teen Vogue/ ASOS fashion show as a part of Fashion’s Night Out 2010
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fashion | art | design
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SPRING/ SUMMER 2011 WHAT’S INSIDE: FASHION’S NIGHT OUT 2010 -student adventures -interviews -exhibit reviews -FNO:THE SHOW
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
FASHION WEEK -first hand show reviews -trend forecasts
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fashion escapade Maia Landesberg (‘14) and Julia Pretsfelder (‘14) caught up with five major fashion industry names this past Fashion’s Night Out. Take a look into their adventures! After putting much effort into looking effortless, we began our fashion’s night out full of excitement. You could sense the atmosphere was charged with enthusiasm from walking down Madison Avenue. The store windows were decked out, free ice cream was handed to us, and all-black clad PR people wearing too much makeup were running around in front of designer flagships muttering into cell phones furtively.
for Home base rBa t? a nigh rk, Yo w Ne ys ne d an on 60th Madison in Manhattan.
: Maia K PIX QUIC a interview uli J d in n u a G phne ing Da Barneys t ness a NO. F during
Style icon Daphne Guin ness noms on a watermel on in a recent NY Magazine sh oot
inson, ogger Tavi Gev 14-year-old bl t The ou Cut. Check image via The and 4 ‘1 a ai which M Cut’s article in d! ne mentio Julia ‘14 were
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We eagerly entered Barney’s, the memories of last year’s fun like dancing with Alexander Wang and models vivid in our minds. After squeezing through teeming crowds of photographers and journalists we got to meet and interview the art and fashion world icon, Daphne Guinness. FAD: We loved the article about you in the New York magazine, the pictures were fantastic, especially the one with the watermelon! DG: Thank you, I kind of came up with that one, I was just like, lets just do it and do it quickly, so I did my own hair and makeup, and bit into a watermelon...just like that. FAD: What was the best part of your month so far? DG: Seeing my children. FAD: How old are they? DG: Well, one is 21, one is 19 and one is 15. FAD: We hope they are doing well. What are you most excited for in the next month? DG: Well, I guess to just carry on making things, being with my friends, and my
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children. FAD: We know you were a dear friend of Isabella Blow, what was your favorite hat you received? DG: Well, there were so many, but my favorite would be the Chinese garden hat it is so beautiful, oh my gosh, isn’t it great? FAD: Yes, that one is amazing; you must feel so lucky to have a part of her life. DG: She was great, but I honestly have no idea what I will do with it all, I certainly can’t wear it, but I do want to keep it safe. FAD: Thank you so much for your time! While at Barney’s we also had the opportunity to interview the innovative (and now ultra-popular) blogger Tavi Gevinson of Style Rookie. You may have recently seen Tavi featured in the New Yorker’s Sept. 20th issue (check it out! http://nyr.kr/d26N1l). FAD: Hi Tavi, we are huge fans! It is so great to meet you. Tavi: Thank you for coming here to see me! FAD: So what shows are you most excited about this coming fashion week? Tavi: I can’t wait to see Rodarte, most definitely. FAD: What do you like about the city? Are you happy to be here? Tavi: Well it is such an honor to be a part of fashion week. I have only been here for 3 hours, I’m really excited. I love the M.O.M.A also. FAD: Thank you so much! Tavi: No problem! Next up, visionary interior designer Jonathan Adler had many things to tell
fashion | art | design
us about the correlations between fashion and design and his work: FAD: Do you/how do you think fashion and interior design relate to each other? JA: Yes, I do think fashion and interior design totally relate to each other, um, ish. Here’s the deal, fashion moves a lot quicker and the thing about interior design is that you can see, like a chick with the most groovy, severe, avant-garde fashion sense, and then you go to her house, and she’ll have the most girly floral “situation” going on, so the two kinda clash, and it kinda bums me out, but I do think they are starting to get more and more alike. FAD: So that would be the thing you could change about interior design? JA: Yes! I would make all flowery shabby, um, girly people throw out all of their stuff, and buy all of my stuff FAD: That is a good plan. What if they were to dress “flowery” as well as have a “flowery” house? JA: Well, then they would have to change everything, maybe like go to a reeducation camp, but you are too young to know what that is. FAD: So flowers are bad? JA: Yes.
so sweet and down-to-earth, and gave us great advice on appreciating our education and watching 80’s John Hughes movies. FAD: What are you most excited about for this season? KM: More high-school fashion magazines! FAD: If you could change anything about fashion what would it be? KM: I can’t really think of anything, I think it’s great the way it is. FAD: What was your inspiration this season? KM: I don’t like to tell before it comes out because then I start second guessing myself and feel self-conscious about my work.
On FNO you could We also had the chance to sense the atmotalk to top model and desphere was charged signer Erin Wasson, who with enthusiasm was wearing a very cool Davy Crockett from walking down inspired fur Madison Avenue.
Later on we left Barney’s and ventured downtown to the Opening Ceremony Flea Market. At first all hope was lost, due to the line leading to the Ace Hotel going down the block, but after being let into the hotel by the nicest and very well dressed man on the face of the planet, we saw a whirlwind of designers booths, like Alexander Wang and Jean Paul Gaultier, and after went in to the Opening Ceremony shop and had the chance to walk around the store. Before our friend let us in with him we had the chance to speak to Kate Mulleavy, one of the Rodarte designers. She was
hat, raccoon
tail and all. FAD: If there is anything you could change about the fashion industry, what do you think it would be? EW: Just the attitude and pretentiousness and I just think the mindset of the industry shouldn’t be like that. FAD: Are you coming out with another collection? EW: No, not for a little while I’m taking a break. FAD: What are you most excited for this season? EW: I like to take it one day at a time. All the shows are all going to be good! You guys are just like checking off like all the perfect interview questions! FAD: Thank you so much for your time! Fashion’s Night Out is great for the city and fashion community because it helps create personal connections between the top people in the fashion industry and their fans and consumers, while raising money for a very deserving cause. Also, we had a terrific time!
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THROW D OWN: Potter and interior de signer Jon athan Adle r throws o n a ceram ics wheel @ Barney s on FNO Photo by . Julia Hirs chberg ‘1 3
rs igne f s e yo :D ER ulleav ll Hal T S A I “ M S e s ’s AD n thi Kat TER SIS ra and heck F hoot i weate s s Lau arte. C photo darte d ” o o e R v R sE ea ’ low e to se u iss
T kno op mo d wn for el Erin her Wa styl l e b ow-ke sson ohe y mia , highn lo ok. 11 f.a.d. magazine
More Horace Mann students scope out the scene at September 10, 2010’s Fashion’s Night Out in NYC the d
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IPIT’s from P A look lack” cent “B most re on collecti
@ barneys Zoe Ke stan ‘11 intervie ws Ma rcus Wainw rig design ht, coer of R ag & Bone
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F.A.D. Co-Editor in Chief Zoe Kestan (‘11) catches up with designer of PIPIT PIPIT and designer Marcus Wainwright Wainwright of Rag Dustin Horowitz Horowitz of and Bone at Barney’s New York during Fashion’s Night Out FAD: Dustin, did you start designing? Dustin Horowitz: It’s something I always did. My grandfather did it, my dad did it, and I launched the collection three years ago. I used to be at the big corporate company at Tommy Hilfiger and I left that to do something a little smaller and hands-on. It started out more like a bunch of art projects, which then morphed into a clothing label. Slightly unintentional. FAD: What’s your design aesthetic? DH: Mixing industrial elements with American folk elements. It definitely has an industrial element with the zig-zag stitching and mizing wovens with knits. FAD: Is there something that stood out from your high-school and/or college experience that has inspired what you do today? DH: I went to both FIT and Parsons. FIT was more technical and design-focused, and Parsons was more creative and artsy. FAD: What was your experience like as a high school student? DH: I went to a couple different schools, I actually participated in a fashion program in FloridaI always knew I wanted to do something with
clothing. FAD: What’s the most exciting thing that’s happened to you in the past month, and what do you look forward to in the upcoming month? DH: [laughs] That’s hard! Tonight was what I was most looking forward to- I’m having such a great time. FAD: Marcus, what’s your favorite part of fashion week and what are you most looking forward to for this year? Marcus Wainwright: My favorite part of fashion week is definitely getting our shows over and done with. It’s nice to have them done- it’s fun to put them on, but it’s very stressful. FAD:What’s this season about? MW: Both men’s and womens- they were much about North Africa in the second World War and desert warfare, South African ghetto, workwear, things like that. FAD:Do you have any advice for high schoolers who want to get into the fashion industry? MW: Intern! We have a lot of interns- they get to help out a lot, and it’s great experience.
Jessica Heller ‘14 notes on her FNO experience and Rachel Zoe hunt
tylist + with s Zoe 4 ‘1 a l Jessic ality Rache n o s r pe
Design er Jaso n Wu deejay ing @ Bergdorfs o n FNO
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On Fashion’s Night Out my goal was to meet Rachel Zoe and see what was going on all over New York. I began my night watching Jason Wu deejaying in the beauty department of Bergdorf Goodman. The floor was filled with women getting their makeup done and their hair blown out. While this was all happening, Jason Wu filled the room with blasting music. I then headed to the Ace Hotel Opening Ceremony staged French flea market. Little had I anticipated on having to wait in a line to just get into the hotel! After waiting close to an hour I was able to get in. It was dark inside and there were many different booths for all designers like Alexander Wang, Rodarte, Keds, and Opening Ceremony. In honor of
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this special night, many of the booths had special releases such as a special design of Keds and special tee shirts from booths such as Rodarte and Proenza Schouler. While I was there Alexander Wang made an appearance at his booth. All you could hear was everyone cheering and himon a loudspeaker! I then headed down to the Mercer Street Piperlime Pop-Up Shop to meet Rachel Zoe. Outside the store there was a crowd of people just trying to get inside while inside the store there was a crowd of people trying to meet Rachel Zoe. Rachel was dressed in all black - she had on a black sequin jacket and huge thick strapped wedge platforms. It was clear she was the chicest one in the room.
fashion | art | design
When I met Rachel she was so nice to me! It was so cool to meet her. When I spoke to her, she was telling me that she loved what I was wearing and thought that style was so important. When she gave me her signature, she wrote “Always stay stylish.” Although I didn’t get to hear her say to me one of her signature catch phrases (like, upon seeing a fab piece of fashion, “I die”), I did see her getting
interviewed and saying, “This night is really bananas. It is crazy how many people have come.” After meeting Rachel, I was able to meet and talk with Rodger Berman (Rachel’s husband). He told me how crazy this night was for both Rachel, himself, and the whole Zoe team- though I’m sure it’s no crazier than any other day in the life. Goal accomplished!
eys
@ barn
Arguably the most in-demand model of today, Australian Abbey Lee Kershaw
The FNO dispatch from Julia Hirschberg ‘13 BERGDORF’S WINDOWS: After looking at the New York Post, I decided I would stay in midtown and visit Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys on Fashions Night Out. The Post said that Jason Wu, Tom Ford, Victoria Beckham, and Brian Atwood would all be at Bergdorf, and I couldn’t wait to catch a glimpse of my favorite designers. I got out of the cab on 58th and 5th to see a line wrapping around the entire block of Bergdorf Goodman. Everyone was being entertained by the elaborate window displays. Jon Kessler created a video installation, and men were inside painting mannequins. Two costumed women were spinning gold inside another window display, both wearing Vivienne Westwood Anglomania + Ultragirl IV jelly flats. In another window, a man was pouring melted wax onto a mannequin to create a pink gown. I was definitely entertained while waiting outside, but it was a relief to finally get to the front of the line and enter the store. DOLLS AT BARNEYS: I walked into Barneys and immediately saw two dolls in a glass case. One was Anna Wintour and the other was Grace Codding-
ton, both made by doll maker Andrew Yang. On the 4th floor there were more dolls inspired by different designers for sale. The designers included Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Proenza Shouler, and of course, Alexander McQueen. The McQueen inspired dolls were by far the most extravagant, dressed in gowns and embellished jackets from previous lines. People walked around the displays, admiring the beautiful work of Andrew Yang. QUICK CHAT with DEBORAH LIPPMANN: On FNO I talked with Deborah Lippmann, who has a nail polish line carried by Barneys and a lots of other stores. She created a color called Across the Universe to help support a group of boys traveling across the world to help different charities. She explained to me that for each person that wears the color Across the Universe and emails a picture of it to her site, she’ll donate a dollar to these boys. Go to http://lippmanncollection.com/2011dl/ index_new.html (P.S. - Lippmann was the manicurist for the Badgley Mischka Spring/ Summer 11 show, review on the following page!)
Jon Kessler’s video installa tion
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erg irschb Julia H orah eb ‘13, D nn, + Annie a s m p ip L arney 3 at B ‘1 Fife
WHAT IS FASHION’S NIGHT OUT? a guide by alice taranto ‘11 Chances are you’ve heard about Fashion’s Night Out - affectionately dubbed FNO - by this point. The evening was advertised extensively in the week leading up to September 10th and literally anyone who’s anyone in fashion is cognizant of the evening, if not attending or hosting their own event. This Sept. 10th was FNO’s sophomore effort - in 2009, fashion folk gathered also on Sept. 10. The initial purpose? To stimulate the economy. No one was shopping, and a savvy Anna Wintour decided that the smart way to get some cash flow in the system was to host a giant party to “support the fashion industry”
(read: buy stuff). The event is international, but of course the focus lies in the fashion capitols of the world - NYC, London, Milan, and Paris. This year FNO was co-hosted by Vogue, the CFDA, and NYC & Co. and was bigger, more commercial, and more widely spread than last year (in 2009, around 800 NYC stores participated while in 2010 over 1,000 did). Everything is free of charge, and provides a really interesting and unique opportunity to meet, for example, the person who designed that skirt you’re wearing. Be sure to keep tabs on FNO for next year so you can be sure to catch some of the fun!
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK REVIEWS FIRSTHAND FASHION: a catwalk recap by horace mann students who were able to attend new york spring/summer 2011 runway shows at lincoln center
BILL BLASS by jeffrey monteiro As I entered the “Black Box” in Lincoln Center, music surrounded me and I heard cameras clicking every millisecond. But after the one glance of the SS 11 Bill Blass Collection, all sounds were muted out. Lots of the looks I, at just 15 years old, wanted to actually wear. My personal favorite was an ensemble of cherry-red pants with a white sleeveless beaded top. Jeffrey Monteiro, the current brand-new designer of Bill Blass, did a great job with this top black trim with clear beads on the shoulders only for emphasis. A touch of elegance was sewn into every garment but the 27 outfits, over all, were exactly a repetition of the designer
review by michelle kim ‘14
collection: “ready-to-wear.” Attending the show in person was a great experience because while the clothes do look phenomenal online, all the exquisite detailing is way more powerful when seen up close. “The Box” at Lincoln Center is an all black room used usually for presentations such as this collection. All the models stood in front of a simple white background which was set up to bring attention to all the daring and bright colors used in the garments. Overall, the smiles on every individual’s face fully proved how the classic Bill Blass is returning to its wellknown and stylish roots, but is being modernized and updated into the 21st century.
Creative Director of Elle 14 Zee Joe with an AmEx rep f.a.d. magazine
ADAM Vivienne Tam
Vivienne Tam
ADAM
ADAM by adam lippes and VIVIENNE TAM review by anna goldberg ‘12 It’s not often that someone without any connections to the fashion business receives tickets to Lincoln center, but there I was, privy to not one, but two fashion shows. Even the paparazzi knew that the crème de la crème were entering that tent, asking to take a picture of me, albeit a no one, but in their minds associated with the grand fashion week; so a some one. The first show, ADAM, designed by Adam Lippes juxtaposed delicate fabrics such as lace and chiffon with structured blazers and pants; the woman and the man. A favorite piece of mine was a peach linen blazer, evoking the memory of summer with its fruitful (literally) name, while working in fall’s camelcolor trend. The soft material made me wish I could bring the jacket home, but alas the show went on to amaze me more and more. Each look reminded me of wild fields of flowers, the materials on each model floating away as if there were a mysterious wind on the runway. Luckily, I can contest that there was no wind, and therein comes the intrigue of seeing these
Vivienne Tam herself
things in person. Photographers can work wonders but eyes can only really capture the way something moves in space. The next show, Vivienne Tam’s, featured peasant blouses and long skirts, a departure from ‘high fashion’ as we know it. Yet the dreaminess of it all was not lost, with deconstructed sweaters and knits bypassing their usual heavy feel, sitting delicately on the stick-thin models. Even Joe Zee, creative director of Elle, made an appearance in the American Express lounge. An interesting Q & A session revealed that, for all of you who are wondering, the City has wrapped up production and MTV has not yet picked up a new season. When asked on how he understands the high-fashion world, the mogul said, “Half the time it’s not there.” Hmm, an empowering idea, maybe the fashion world doesn’t know best? Maybe you and I really know more than we think we do. All I really know is that getting the insider treatment at fashion week was truly something of a dream, oh, and that Joe Zee has a new show in the works…
fashion art | goldberg design‘12 ADAM final walk photo by| anna
ADAM photo by anna goldberg ‘12 pro runway photo lower left corner
BADGLEY MISCHKA
review by alice taranto ‘11 and daphne taranto ‘11
akova
FNO: THE SHOW
The lights dimmed, the thumping Arcade Fire/ Vampire Weekend/The Temper Trap music mix flooded the glamour-filled tent, and goose bumps of excitement ran up our arms. Some of our favorite models, including Siri Tollerød, Tao Okamoto, and Vlada Roslyakova, stomped down the catwalk in Badgley Mischka’s delicate and feminine red carpet-worthy looks. For designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka, spring dressing means yards of flowing silk, significant embellishments, and pastel colors, as well as a few shots of red. As you can see in Style.com pictures, a video of pink flowers softly swaying was projected on the back wall. After the exhilarating final walk, we both slipped backstage to meet the designers Mark and James, which we were quite surprised we were allowed to do! We are both thrilled to have attended a live fashion show, especially the first year NYFW is at Lincoln Center!
Rosly Model Vlada
We knew we were approaching the new home of NYFW because all of the high heel-clad, modellength legs were headed in one direction - to Lincoln Center. As we crossed the marble plaza and grand fountain, we spotted try-hard fashionistas and effortless style icons alike being photographed by such street style photography legends as Bill Cunningham. The tent set-up was just as we had heard it was - like a fashion airport terminal. Check-in kiosks, uniformed helping hands, and seating assignments (read: boarding passes) helped set the airport mood. Once inside the tent, we noticed the large press pit and hundreds of chairs flanking the impressively long and light-dappled catwalk. Front row sightings included actress Gabrielle Union, Seventeen magazine Editor in Chief Ann Shoket, and Architectural Digest Editor in Chief Margaret Russell. But, as always, we mostly cared about the show itself!
Alice Taranto ‘11 and Daphne Taranto ‘11 catch up with the designers post-show!
review by magica darabundit ‘11 alice taranto ‘11 issue photoshoot: Opening Act, 50s Flair, Tartan Twist, Pure at Heart, Weekend Wrap-Up, Go Global, Jazz Age Cool, and Grand Finale. It was also a full-on celeb scene - the who’s who of Hollywood and fashion were there. Our fave moments? When the 14 most famous models unloaded for “Opening Act” from an FNO double-decker bus clad in FNO tees, getting a pic with designer Carolina Herrera, and Naomi’s glam and dramatic closer. For the extensive documentation of FNO: The Show, check out http://www.vogue.com/guides/fno-the-show/.
TEEN VOGUE/ASOS FNO block party/fashion show view by emma garcia ‘13 and alice taranto ‘11
to nd Taran olland, a Garcia, H
the magazine! We got a chance to snap a shot with Amy Astley, the Editor in Chief of Teen Vogue, and Beauty Editor Eva Chen was kind enough to introduce us to several of her colleagues. To hear from several of these editors, check out our Teen Vogue spread on p. 52-53 of F.A.D. Vol. 1 No. 3, http://issuu.com/fadmag/docs/fadissuethree. Part of the Block Party was a book signing booth for Erica Domesek, the crafty blogger behind P.S. I Made This (see F.A.D.’s review on p. 7). On our way out of the event, we spotted fashion writer/style icon Lynn Yaeger (see Alice’s interview with the clothing maven on p. 33 of F.A.D. Vol. 1 No. 3). The really great and interesting part of the night was that we got to see all of these fashion folk, many of whom we have met through F.A.D., in real life – and the editors, writers, and designers were all extremely friendly and fun to talk to! EMMA ’13 and ALICE TARANTO ‘11 2– no. 1 GARCIA
show
For this year’s FNO, we headed over to the West Village for the Teen Vogue/ASOS Block Party. This jointly hosted evening featured a fashion show in the middle of the street (the makeshift runway was a long, tented section of the city street!) and a musical performance by VV Brown. During the event, we got to snap a photo with designer Henry Holland of House of Holland (the design label of graphic t-shirt fame). How did we recognize this style icon amongst the crowds? Alice spotted Holland’s signature upright hairdo and his distinctive, fashionista-coveted sneaks, a Christian Louboutin creation in black and white chevrons. Walking around the Bleecker St. block we were happily aware that the street was, for a night, a walking breathing copy of Teen Vogue. All of the magazine’s editors were present, and it was up to us to mix and mingle with the people whose mann school fallthe 2010 workhorace we see published monthly| in pages| vol. of
re-
The FNO bus carried top models, all wearing FNO tees, to the Lincoln Center FNO show
of OS, final walk Teen Vogue/AS
To cooincide with FNO, Vogue hosted a whopping 171look (even the largest shows have a mere 60 looks) runway show literally awesome event. On Sept. 7 (the Tues. before FNO) over 100 top-name international super models (including all the big hitters - Gisele, Naomi, Coco, Adriana, Doutzen, Lara, Karlie, you name it) walked the plaza of Lincoln Center in NYC’s largest ever public fashion show (over 1,000 “spectators” snagged the coveted $30 tickets). The extremely well-organized event was choreographed into 9 groups, each of which cooincides with a Vogue Sept.
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trend around the bend spring/summer 2011 trend forecasting
ohne tite l
desig er betsey jo her shnow hnson afte r
it’s time for your spandex shorts and the spin bike to say good-bye to each other. let your athletic-inspired sportswear into your everyday wardrobe - double your clothing options by using your (laundered) P.E. clothes for the everyday!
vera wan g
hervé leg ér by ma x azria
WHEEL DEAL
betsy joh nson
alice taranto ‘11 and zoe kestan ‘11 scan new york fashion week for what’s next
outback traveler eli tahari
son erin fether
eli tahari
son erin fether
g furstenbur diane von
perhaps the most rugged thing you’re doing today is going down the hill for pizza. but who says you couldn’t use a tailored all-sport olive parka or a pair of chic hiking boots? and no, those are no longer oxymorons.
marc jaco bs
marc jaco bs
alexande
alexandre
r wang
herchcovi
on one of those rainy april mornings, what could cheer you up more than a little something sparkly? guys n’ gals, fear not the integration of party wear into your 7:30 am routine.
marc jaco bs
tch
SHINE ON!
PREP SCHOOL GIRL chris benz
araks
rodar te
uler a scho
proenz
ilip lim 3.1 ph
SAVED by the bell! thought that “SEXY” = “SCANDALOUS”? THINK AGAIN! up-to-here slits and down-to-THERE V-NECKS DON’T work for everyone peter pan collars, minimal cleavage, and selectively displayed assets are classy, YOUNG, and cute
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fashion | art | design
prabal gu rung
badgley m ischka
calvin kle in
christian siriano
alexande
Several designers featured virtually all-white shows (including alexander wang, whose signature LOOK is all-black downtown grunge). a slouchy, flowy, long + lean silhouette in white is flattering for SPRING/SUMMER 2011
r wang
WHITE NOW
WORD TO THE WISE
Magica Darabundit ‘11, Rachel Scheinfeld ‘12, and Alice Taranto ‘11, and Emma Garcia ‘13 hear from fun fashion folk at various Fashion’s Night Out events
Celebrities, fashion, and fun: those three words basically sum up Fashion’s Night Out: The Show, which took place on September 7th (the Tuesday before FNO itself). The evening comprised of a special, enormous Vogue-hosted fashion show in the Lincoln Center plaza - see F.A.D.’s review of the show just 2 pages back! American Express and Fashion’s Night Out hosted a unique panel discussion on the fashion industry with four fashion industry heavy-hitters: Designer Tory Burch, of her eponymous fashion brand best known for its leather banana-style flats with gold double-T medallions on the toe; Dandy (and conversation moderator du jour) Hamish Bowles, the European Editor at Large for Vogue magazine; Designer Alexander Wang, the remarkably young and successful designer of his eponymous fashion label; and lastly the President and Executive Creative Director of J. Crew, Jenna Lyons. As told by Magica and Alice: HB: Where does your inspiration come from when you start making a collection? TB: Inspiration can come from anywhere - but I love seeing the Premiére Vision fabric fair in Paris. AW: I am in a constant dialogue with my team about the collection and our influences. Sometimes, let’s say I’m showing at NY Fashion Week the 3rd day and I’ve seen something similar going on at other shows the 1st and 2nd days, I’ll get inspired to react: either cancel that item, spin it, or leave it if it really works that well. JL: Sometimes I just want to make what’s really ugly - because that’s going to be cool next! [laughs] And I try to keep it fresh, so it’s not formulaic. At J. Crew we do a lot of ruffles - it’s too ruffly, I know, we’re stopping that! Maybe a sweater will look really cool if you put on a whole bunch of buttons - or take off all of the buttons. HB: Can you talk a little bit about the business aspect of your design companies? JL: J. Crew is a big company. We have over 40 people in womenswear, around 25 in menswear, and over 10 in the CrewCuts [kids] department. TB/AW: Wow! [raise eyebrows in shock] JL: Yes, I know! Sometimes it’s terrifying that the fashion industry really is looking at J. Crew. We don’t do runways, only presentations with live models, and we try to always sell a season, not an item. AW: I love that it’s not always a 100% creative job, that there is that business piece. It’s different every season, and I like that! TB: Yes, as Alex says, there’s creativity - but the trick is to balance that with the business. What will sell? What won’t? We have to ask these questions. HB: What’s your favorite part of your job? JL: I love the hair, the makeup...the fantasy! That’s the best part. Along with the extensive documentation of FNO: The Show found online at http://www.vogue.com/guides/fno-theshow/, the FNO crew filmed an (admittedly incredibly awkward and laughably badly edited) webcast video. André Leon Talley, former American Editor at Large and current contributing editor of Vogue magazine, and Hanneli Mus-
taparta, Norwegian model-turned-blogger/photographer, co-hosted the webcast. The two snagged designers and celebrities for brief interviews on their way to their seats to watch the fashion show. Alice and Magica give the highlights: AL: This show, the whole event, is fabulous because it is not elitist. It is clothing for everyone. It’s about the consumer’s instant gratification - if you have $10 or $1000 to spend, because all of the clothes in FNO: The Show are available for purchase in-season, not in 6 months like usual fashion shows. TOMMY HILFIGER: I also love that it’s in-season, and not exclusive. HM: Tonight is a lot of fun, too! And as a model, I know how much craziness must have gone on backstage to prepare all those models for this big fashion event! ANNA WINTOUR: We want everyone to come to the party. Hanneli’s blog: http://www.hanneli.com/ At the Teen Vogue/ASOS Bleecker Street Block FNO, Alice, Rachel, and Emma got a chance to talk with the P.S. I Made This blogger, frequent WhoWhatWearDaily collaborator, and now author Erica Domesek at her D.I.Y. booth, where she was signing copies of her new book and giving people crafty tips.
Party on
CW: BowleAslexander W , Tory B ang, Ha m urch, J enna Lish yons.
nza n Proe eparta (i Talley, and d ta s u M li n Hanne r), André Leo h and Lazaro ug Schoule ack McCollo Schouler J a signers ez of Proenz d Hernan
FAD: So how did you come about doing DIY? Erica Domesek: Well, I’ve been making stuff since I was a kid and I’ve been working in fashion as a prop stylist and a creative consultant for 10 years. I always make stuff behind the scenes and one day one of my friends, who actually works at Teen Vogue, wanted to buy this necklace that was 600 dollars! So instead I told her to come over and we’d make it! So all my friends came over and we made the necklace. After this I started a craft club, which then my blog became an extension of, and now became a book! FAD: That’s so cool! What a great story. Erica: And the rest is history! I’ve just always loved making things and teaching people how to make things. FAD: You always seem to pick the perfect projects, like the coveted Isabel Marant pointy-toe shoe with those dainty bows on the sides. Erica: I see it, I like it, I make it! FAD: It’s a great motto! Erica: [Laughs] Yeah, the tag line. I’m glad you love it! Erica’s blog: http://psimadethis.com/. Be sure to check out Rachel’s review of P.S. I Made This, the book, in our SPONGE: We Absorb Culture section on p. 6. Erica’s book is availableA lice Tara for purchase on Amazon.com and wherever books are sold. Erica D nto ‘11, Emm omese a Garc k. Abov ia Marant Find the trailer for the book here: http://www.youtube.com/ e, Erica ‘13, and bow sh o a e c D o IY - the ’s Isabel llabora watch?v=E9FsdgrLNJk. tion pro
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
with W
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ject wa
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Yad Vashem Children’s Memorial in Jerusalem
The Capitol Building in Washington, D.C.
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater
Le Corbusier’s Villa Savoye in Paris
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what our roundings THE LIVING ROOM sur bout us say a One of the greatest but most underappreciated causes of our emotional state is our built environment. The structures that surround us make us feel a certain way. It’s nearly impossible to walk through the Yad Vashem Children’s Memorial in Jerusalem without experiencing a visceral response of loss and grief. The Capitol Building in Washington, D.C. projects feelings of awe and national pride on all who stand before it. The emotions that a building evokes are directly linked to our reaction to the building. Do we like the building? Is it “good” design? Our answers to these questions depend on the degree to which we agree with the sentiments produced by the buildings. Likeable architecture usually produces positive induced moods in its viewers. Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater demonstrates this phenomenon marvelously. The house is built on layers against the slope of the stream and hill, almost rendering the house as a natural extension of the Earth. Water flows uninterrupted beneath the house, producing a gurgling hum that audibly exhibits the nearness of nature. The organic house conveys feelings of peace and at-one-ness to its inhabitants. We all aspire to be harmoniously at peace, and the house serves as a vehicle to deliver to us to that goal. We like the house because it enables us to feel the way we want to feel. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the virtues of efficiency and logic. Le Corbusier’s
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Villa Savoye in Paris is a “machine for living in.” The house subscribes to the doctrine “less is more” and eschews all adornment in favor of maximizing space with clean lines. The rigid utility of the house makes it a paradigm for the ideals of efficiency and logic. Although the house is universally recognized as a groundbreaking achievement in modernist architecture, the opinions of the house’s uninitiated viewers are often polarized. Is the house beautiful in its crisp minimalism, or is it repulsive in its mechanized impersonality? Your answer to that question, and your opinion of the house in general, depend on yourself as a person. If you value and hope to possess the characteristics of strict logic and orderliness, then you are likely to appreciate the house. If however, you are a more emotive person, you are more likely to disdain the house’s lack of embellishment. Your opinion of the house depends on who you are and who you want to be. If your judgment of a building depends on how well the mood produced correlates with your personal aspirations, can there such thing as a universally “good” house? Is there some type of person that each and every one of us wants to be? The answer is no, and that’s what distinguishes one building from another. Each of us is a different person with different values and aspirations. Each building reflects these different personas and emerges with a unique aesthetic design.
fashion | art | design
DESIGN RHYME JUSTIN BURRIS ‘11 , F.A.D.’S SENIOR DE SIGN EDITOR, FILLS US IN ON THE WORLDS OF ARCHITECTURE AN D 3D DESIGN
This single person shelter testifies to the merits of solitude and the strength of the individual. The entire structure is less than 200 square feet and contains little more than a bed. The house stands alone; it is truly isolated from all civilization. Despite this loneliness, the house projects the impression of a rising progression due to its upward sloping roof. Personal growth has no external prerequisites, it relies solely on focused introspection.
JUSTIN’S OWN DESIGNS
buildings personified
These a
This library represents the ideals of fortitude and stalwartness. The building clearly pays homage to classical traditions with its balustrades, arches, columns, and cornice, but it also does not eschew the modern. The economical brick exterior and the oversized illuminating windows allow ample natural light to enter the building. Its squatness and masonry contribute to the impression that this is a library that was built to last.
re sket ches of designe a single d to em family body th house tion. W e ideal hile the of innov s p id ery app structu aendage ral purp s serve ose, the creativ no y speak ity for c on beha reativit tion of lf y o ’s f sake. T walls in he juxt t h e f a r posiont sec illustra tion of tes the the hou rearran utilities se gement to serve of exist new pu the hou in g r poses. T se typifi he back es the p nized c of roduct reative o f t h e p r d o is c esses. I orgaand poli ts lines shed an are cle d its int an erior sp ace is m mized e axifficient ly.
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Covers of Thailand’s LIPS magazine.
t r o p s s a p n o i h n fas and editio thail
magica darabundit ‘11 gets the dish on the big-time Thai fashion mag LIPS
Translated from the Thai by Magica
http://www.lips-mag.com/ A CHAT WITH SAKCHAI GUY, EDITOR IN CHIEF OF LIPS MAGAZINE What is LIPS? LIPS magazine is a workingwoman’s magazine with high fashion, health, and lifestyle. Our ideal woman is an intelligent workingwoman, which is actually pretty funny since I’m male. Who is the LIPS reader? How else would you describe that woman? University students, working women, and housewives are some examples. Our magazine offers something for everyone, although we mainly focus on high fashion. We’re the only Thai magazine that does all of its own production. All the other magazines like ELLE and Harper’s Bazaar just literally copy all the articles and photos from the US version, and translate it for the Thai audience. LIPS is unique since we know what the Thai reader really wants, even you, [who are reading this interview right now,] who can’t read Thai you can still understand our magazine even just flipping through it. How did you choose the name LIPS? I decided to start LIPS during an economic crisis, and while I was flipping through magazines during the crisis I came across something interesting – no matter how good or bad the economy is, all the cosmetic ads are still there. This tells us that women always want to look good, they always want to do makeup, and they always want to stay healthy, [regardless of the economic climate.] I wanted an memorable name to symbolize all of this. I loved the word lipstick – when you see a woman, the first thing you notice are her lips. You can also relate lips to gossip, speaking, and all kinds of things. There is a film, Lipstick, [from 1976] starring Margaux Hemingway – she’s so beautiful. My partner and I actually had an argument about whether the name should be LIPSTICK or LIPS, but in the end we decided on LIPS. It’s actually pretty funny since when people hear the word LIPS it seems kind of provocative, but LIPS Editor in Chief, nicknamed S-Guy, and the 10th Anniversary edition of LIPS which was based on flowers.. 20 f.a.d. magazine
LIPS is actually a beauty and fashion magazine. What is an average day for you? Working, working, working. You must remember that this magazine comes out twice a month and we have a staff of 80 people. [Any day I might] I go to fashion shoots, meetings, travel to meet people, or meet the customers [in person.] What do high school and college have to do with who you are now and what you’re doing these days? Absolutely nothing. When I was in college I wanted to be a musician. I studied music in high school and in college and it wasn’t until much later on when I started studying art. I started off with painting and drawing but then I discovered my love for photography. My first job out of college was as a fashion and beauty photographer for 15 years, then partner for 7 or 8 years in Thailand. I did almost all fashion magazines in Thailand – then I stopped with photography. After I stopped working with other magazines, I became bored of having done the same thing for 20 years. I started doing architecture and flower arrangement, but soon I started getting haunted by my past jobs involving magazines and I thought to myself, Why don’t I start my own magazine? And that’s how LIPS was created. What is your opinion on the “extinction of print” and the uprising of blogs and other technology as a replacement? I’m not worried. I’m a bookworm, there’s something about reading books and magazines that’s special. I’m
fashion | art | design
still up to date with technology, but I don’t think it’ll affect a lot of local Thai magazines. Actually, LIPS is going to be the first magazine that will be participating with the iPad – we’re going to be the first to publish our magazine as an e-book, under a contract with the iPad. I’m really not worried… Maybe in another 50 years I will be? Oh well, I won’t be here anyways. But also you should be informed about FT Marketing, which is Facebook-Twitter Marketing. It’s very important for marketing nowadays, but at the same time reading an e-book is just not the same as flipping through a magazine. What are your future plans? I’m not really an ambitious person, so I have no interest in starting my own publishing company. I’m quite satisfied with what I’m doing right now with LIPS. I’m going to keep doing this job until I get too sick to continue. Plus, I’m too old to start something new like farming! [Laughs] Do you have any advice or recommenda- tions for teens interested in pursuing your type of career path? The most important thing is to be yourself. Also, you have to try something new no matter what. I strongly believe in fresh ideas – there’s always room for new ideas. We always have new artists submitting work to our magazine, and people gain experience from learning about, seeing, and trying something new. LIPS has a special affinity for flowers – as seen on the magazine’s beautiful website homepage. Your favorite flower…? [Laughs] I love something mysterious. I love white flowers though. But if I had to choose one for this season, it’d be a gardenia.
WHO’S WHO? A TOUR OF THE LIPS STAFF Beauty Editor VERAPHOL WATTARNAKULJARUS A beauty editor worries about new products and testing them out. I do a lot of research from American magazines when looking for more products. I have to be up to date with trends that’ll be appearing soon and figuring out how to explain them. I help the junior beauty editors with setting up columns, like helping to decide which trends should be
more central than others. I also go to a lot of launch events in order to stay up to date with every beauty product that begins to circulate around Thailand. Features Editor PORNRUDEE SRITONGSUK I take care of all the other things besides fashion and beauty. I check up on almost everything. I write columns too, and I hire freelance writers for certain projects. Features usually has to do with the lifestyle of a woman – helping women keep up to date with money, sex, relationships, culture, manners, laws, movies, music, etc. Art Director KAN SUWANTHADA An art director worries about the overall look of the magazine, including the use of color and the placement of images and text. The pages have got to have consistency – every magazine has it’s own style and identity [including F.A.D.!]. Deputy Editor SETHAPONG PAWWATTANA My job is to manage the editorial staff and to support and assist the Editor in Chief, since in Thailand there’s no Managing Editor. [I sometimes make my own projects] – I have a few columns on lifestyle, travel, and food.
MAGICA’S DISPATCH FROM THE BANGKOK FASHION SOCIETY PRESS PREVIEW “Think Global, Dress Local” are the first words I see at the Bangkok Fashion Society Press Preview for Autumn/Winter 2010. I attended the event with my boss, Tue (tuecompany.com), from my summer 2010 internship at his event planning company. The event featured 12 Thai designers who each offered a preview, sometimes on live models, of their A/W 2010 collections at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. All the designers interpret trends common to the runways of the world - but with a Thai twist. The three main concepts they decided to focus on this season are Modern Folk, Retro Modern, and One World. The twelve brands featured were Asava, Munchu, Playhound, Zenithorial, Kloset, Greyhound, Jirat Subpisankul, Sretsis (“sisters” backwards - a label also popular in the U.S.), Disaya, Senada, Theatre, and Issue. The head designers were present in case anyone had questions about their collection. The BFS Press Preview happens twice a year, once for the fall collections and again for the spring/ summer collections. I felt extremely lucky to have been able to witness this press preview, and it was a great experience for me! Top Clockwise: Arts Director Kan, Deputy Editor Sethapong, Beauty Editor Veraphol, Features Editor Pornrudee. Left: Magica’s snapshots from the Bangkok Fashion Society Press Preview
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school they would put us all in a room and we had to work out the
Rie Nørregaard (left) seating arrangements and we couldn’t go home until it was done – and Susy Korb (right), two of the creators of S: Fabulous! Omhu, with their fa- R: So once I left I felt very capable of being in any environment and vorite color cane from making things work with any type of person. the new product line.
SUGAR CANE Inspired by the lacking products for the burgeoning new market of luxury elderly goods, three women set out to solve the problem in style. daphne taranto ‘11 talks with two of the creators of the new brand. Assisted by Julia Hirschberg ‘13 and Halle Liebman ‘13
RIE NØRREGAARD + SUSY KORB of
OMHU
http://www.OMHU.com How did your high school and college experiences change or shape where you are today? SUSY: I had a wonderful high school experience. I went to a progressive school where you were encouraged to do anything. This was in the mid-seventies in western Pennsylvania, and if you wanted to create your own curriculum and you could get it approved, then you could study it. So I studied geodesic domes, the Marx brothers… RIE: I had no idea! S: I didn’t know how special it was! It really encouraged people to pursue their dreams. R: The years of school are broken down a little bit differently in Denmark, which is where I went to school. I went to a small progressive school. For example, on the first day of
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Did you see your interests sparking in high school and your teenage years, or have they really changed over time? S: I’ve always been interested in words and images, and knew I wanted to be an art historian from the time I was probably fourteen. At that age I had a sort of character flaw, and I still have this, I really don’t like hospitals. R: You don’t. S: Yeah, (laughs), and I’m not afraid of dying, but that environment, the lighting, the color of the walls. Part of why Omhu is important to us is to really recognize those environments and sensory, tact[u]al, visual qualities of light. Part of the dream is to get Omhu big enough so that we can effect environments, not just “stuff.” One of the great things about Omhu is that we can offer products that you need that have dignity. My direction is to use humor to diffuse awkward situations and make people less afraid of the frailties of life. R: So that’s by some kind of design what we want to do with this company. What has been the most surprising or unexpected part of creating Omhu so far? S: How long it takes to get things right! The time from idea and sketch to perfection can be really long. To get a great product there are no shortcuts. Also the surprise with what we are doing is who gets [(understands)] it and who doesn’t. Some still believe that this is just a medical device and it should be sold in a depressing surgical supply store. It has nothing to do with age. It’s interesting how we have to learn to sell our business. R: Sometimes a person’s vision is too far ahead of where anyone can really go. And you see that in art too – an artist or writer is appreciated long after he is gone – S: And I hope that isn’t us! (both laugh) R: Well, it isn’t because so many people are responding well to the product. Do you think that having the Omhu canes in the New York Gift Fair in August has been a good motivator to get them done? S: Deadlines are really good! (both laugh) R: Yes, they are really important. You have to set a goal and then work towards it. How do your backgrounds in luxury, fashion, and consumer world-wide brands affect your work today, besides the counterbalance? S: Well, I worked at Tiffany and Harry Winston, and Rie worked at
fashion | art | design
Chanel and Samsung. For us, it’s not a matter but have learned to bring them to the front, of bedazzling [the cane]. We both have a sense whether personal or work-related. of quality, which is real quality in the design, R: Everybody needs something different. You manufacturing, and responsible production. just have to figure out what each person needs. For the object itself, you can feel that hand of Learning to work together is a big challenge the artist when you use it. The products have and takes many years, but it’s a large part of to have a particular point of view and attitude learning to be a professional person and turn– that’s what a brand is really about. ing out a product. R: Right. Integrity, or point of view, some- S: Chemistry is important – who you are going thing with which you can identify. The color, to want to spend time with. I think we’ve made the shape and the feelings communicated are really good decisions about whom we want for very important, and that’s something very well outside collaborators. understood over a long time. The idea of simply being attracted to something Would you please discuss the outside [is] actually a One of the great things about designers and basic and esartists that you OMHU is that we can offer sential quality. have worked products that you need that have with in creatHow do you find dignity. The direction of OMHU ing Omhu? is to use humor to diffuse awkthe collaborative R: To make process? Are all ward situations and make people the product I’ve parts of the work less afraid of the frailties of life. brought in people cooperative or that I’ve worked does each team member focus on a dif- with in the past whose vision I really respect. ferent area? Allen Zadeh who designed the cane with us S: We all divide and conquer the different as- is a design director [at] Smart Design. We’ve pects, but we spend a lot [of] time meeting be- worked together on several projects, and I cause everything is a judgment call. Good part- knew he’d be right for this product. We are nerships built on trust work very well in fitting [also] working with a designer named Tucker together all our various parts. We each have Viemeister, who has been a friend and mentor disagreem e n t s for a long time. In other cases, we are working with a Danish fashion designer named Henrik Vibskov. I didn’t know him but was attracted to his expression and his sense of fantasy, whimsy, and colors, which I thought was great for Omhu.
TIP keep S FROM pass ing y P ione our w ROs: d an ork d pe imrson al
rie: Think about [what your passions are] early on, so that you can do well by doing good. susy: I think persona is really important for creative people, for any people. It’s not pretentious to develop a bit of a scrapbook of who you want to be.
propriate parts of that. I think persona is really important for creative people, for any people. It’s not pretentious to develop a bit of a scrapbook of who you want to be. My heroes growing up were Andy Warhol and Diana Vreeland. R: Well – you’re a total combination! (both laugh) Having the opportunity to work for people whose work you really respect is very valuable. You can contribute through the things you What advice are passionate about. And think do you have about it early on, so that you can for rising do well by doing good. brand strategists, design- What are your personal faers, creative vorite colors from the cane ers, and entre- bouquet?
thinkpreneurs? S: Well, I think that to be a good entrepreneur you also have to have a job-job. Intern a lot, because then you can see the different types of people in that field, and you can decide if you want to be in that field. And, have some abstract idea of how you want to be and ap-
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
R: For me it’s the blue. S: Can I like the blue too? R: Of course! S: It’s my favorite too. R: It makes you happy. It just resonates. I like all of them - a lot.---
f.a.d. magazine 23
i z u s & allan shion
inside
retro f o e m o h the
fa
zoe kestan ‘11 and alice taranto ‘11 talk with two upper west side fiixtures and vintage mavens (check the F.A.D. photoshoots for A&S garb!) What drove you to open Allan and Suzi?
okay answer?
Allan: I was originally a hairdresser, and Suzi had a boutique at my salon.
S: I think it’s having
I saw how she was doing in the boutique- making money pretty easily,
great personal style.
and doing really well! I knew all the upperclass ladies that came to my
That’s what’s wrong
salon, and got together with Suzi to start something new. We had little
sometimes – people fol-
money, so we bought a few new pieces, went to my ladies and took some
low a trend, but it doesn’t
of their old clothes. I just couldn’t take it as a hairdresser any more!
work for them personally.
Suzi:At the time we really weren’t sure what direction to go in and we
I find that a lot of our clients, it
also didn’t have a lot of money. We decided to combine old with new
doesn’t matter the age group, usually
because we felt that there was someone for each category. At that time, in
our repeat customers are people who are looking for
1987, people were hesitant to wear other people’s clothes. Only the young
personal style. That’s what makes our store a great place for people to
understood it. It turned out, it looks so great together, it looked so differ-
really hone their own personal style, rather than look like the masses.
ent than what anyone was showing at the time!
Do you live, love, or operate your business by any phrase?
Neither of us had gone to school for fashion or anything like that. We just
S: I think when you really have a good time, and really enjoy what
used our personal tastes. When we started this business we didn’t have a
you’re doing, the end result is so different than people that do things
business plan, or any plans, we just knew we were going to do our best,
by the book.
work as hard as possible, to make this happen. The business took on a life of its own. The next thing you know, things were coming in, people were coming. Consignment pieces that other consignment stores weren’t interested in, but we saw the merit whether it was very outrageous or very unique, or very funny! We just put things together,
Well, everything is unique in the store, and even if it is
from just a few years ago, it would be unlikely to find someone else who was wearing it, right?
we were
S: “Original personal style.”
having a great time. Do you think that now there is any
Besides people coming one
into the shop, giving
word that encapsulates the
bags of garments, where
style of the stores, or
else do you find the clothes
of your personal
and accessories that go into
style?
the shop? Do you go to estate
A: For the store? Irrever-
sales?
ent? [laughs] Is that an
S: A lot of things come from people who love fashion, and have changed
24
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fashion | art | design
their fashion point of view. When people would bring things in, I would
far from some really nice towns where we knew people would appreci-
always say, “Have you changed your personal style?” – “Yes! That’s why
ate what we had. And we just felt that the town had nowhere to go but
I’m doing this!” – “Well, don’t look back! You have to move ahead!”
up. We felt like pioneers! We opened the store, people loved it because
That’s what really has fueled our business too – we’ve attracted a lot of
people from that part of New Jersey would always have to travel to the
people who are moving on with their lifestyle. Also, maybe I shouldn’t
city. But now they felt like they had a part of New York City right there,
even say it to you, I hate to say it – sometimes there are people who pass
within short driving distance.
away. Their family members are not interested in the clothing, or accu-
We hear you had a televison show, “At Home with Alan and
mulating it because it gets overwhelming.
Suzi”..
A:We also buy some things. It’s not all consignment, but that is the
S:Oh, my god! Do you know that people still come in and ask us when
majority--sometimes I’ll hear about a store going out of buisness, or
we’re going to get our show back?
maybe a store hidden with a basement full of clearance clothing, and I’ll
A:We started in 1994--before the internet and all this new technology--
go and buy some new items to sell. Do you have a favorite item from the shop? S:Oh, my god! It would be so hard to pinpoint. There are certain things I like in the jewelry department, certain gowns… A:My favorite item is always changing. Different times
and we showed on cable television. We would sell our clothes and it ended up turning out to be a cult thing! Everyone watched it! Since the magazine is for high school students, could we hear a bit about your high school experience? How did you dress? S: I graduated high school in 1965, which to me, the 60s, were my very favorite time ever. I don’t think anything could compare with the 60s
call for different favorite items. Right now? It’s an item
because I loved the clothing, I was very fashion-conscious when I was in
F.A.D. is borrowing! The Rodarte sweater--you can
high school.
see by the way I look at it. (See pg. 41 for that sweater
A: I was a great dresser [laughs]. I was really into clothes, and I’m 71 now
in “All Hallows Eve”)
so this goes way back. My favorite shirt was the “Nik Nik” shirt- you’ve
S:There’s just so much! I love Christian Lacroix, I
probably never heard of it! If you wore one of those, you were definitely
really do. So anything he makes, or made. Oh! [gasps]
cool in my
I know what my favorite piece is. It’s by Bill Gibb – here’s why: Allan wanted to sell it, and I told him I just couldn’t. From the 1960s, it’s a gold lace coat. He probably has it up on top. I just adore it. What has been the most exciting part of your career this far as the retro maven?
book.
Do you
have a favorite style decade?
A: I always
like now. I don’t have a
favorite
decade; I love
things
that are hap-
pen-
ing currently..
al-
though I can’t help
S:There have been so many! We’ve met so
love the 20’s and the
many fabulous people, and done so
flapper trends. I also
much…[Gasps] We once had a huge
love that people now
party at the Palladium, and we invited of
are mixing new and
course all of our friends and our children
vintage. They are now
and their friends. The same night we were
creating their own style.
having our party, in another private room,
When we first went into
Madonna was there, so she became part of our
business, style was dictated.
party.
Now, I feel, people have
A:There have been way too many! I was very excited
more creativity when it comes
though when Linda Fargo came in to the store. She
to
clothing.
was working at Macy’s at the time, and came and asked to take out a bunch of clothes and shoes for their store windows. Our stuff covered the outside of the store
Do you have any advice for high-school kids interested in fashion, retail, and your career path?
Can you explain to us about the New Jersey shop? Is it
A: You have to do what you love. When you do it, It’s not work! I I origi-
new, and do you mostly run that location?
nally just didn’t want to do hair anymore, but I used to love fashion! As
S: We wanted a second location, and the rents were really very high in
much as I hate to say it... I still do.
2000 in New York. We read an article about Ashbury Park, and we came down there. It was a very popular place many many years ago, and they had race riots, so it was really kind of on its way to being gentrified, but it
And lastly, what will you be wearing for Halloween?
was still a little edgy and maybe scary. We got this great store at very very
S:I usually like to dress as a man.
good rent. I liked the whole idea of this – right near the boardwalk, not
A:...I’ll be in bed!
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
f.a.d. magazine 25
CO-FOUNDER of LATINA + ESSENCE MAGAZINES
ESS cove ENCE r ga llery
http://www. essence.com Feb ‘08: Tyra Banks
ED LEWIS interview by ALICE TARANTO ‘11 assisted by SHAKEA ALSTON ‘13 + RACHEL SCHEINFELD ‘12
Three Horace Mann students hear from the man who co-founded the printed authorities on black women’s and Latin women’s beauty and lifestyle. What was the impetus for starting Essence in 1968, such a tumultuous year in American history? In 1968 there was concern about the status of African Americans in society. It was the idea of getting young blacks to go into business, to be a part of a part of the capitalist business community. We felt that we had to do something to facilitate in building this country we call America.
Sept ‘08: The First Family graces Essence’s cover
What spurred the idea for Latina in 1996? In my position as being chairman and CEO of Essence, I saw a media landscape and tried to recognize, politically, what was going on within the country. It just seemed to me that the largest emerging minority group was going to be Hispanics. There was no magazine that was displaying the intelligence and beauty of Hispanic women, and reaching out to Hispanic women would be a powerful marketing tool. I heard similar ideas in Christy Haubegger’s [Latina Founder] sales pitch as I had been thinking when forming Essence. How are the two magazines similar and different? Essence and Latina are focused on women, black and Hispanic. We are lifestyle magazines, displaying all aspects: career, entertainment, education, family, etc… They both serve underdeveloped markets but are different with respect to their issues.
Sept ‘10: Naomi Campbell, model Iman, + Liya Kedebe on 40th anniversary cover
r to hea P.S. r wo cu t m o fr atina rent L ne edizi maga e p. 28! e tors, s 26
There was a recent controversy about Essence’s hiring a white woman, Elliana Placas, as the new fashion director in place of the former editor, who was African American. What was your response to the public’s negative reaction? I hesitate to use the word controversy because not that many people, by the way, raised or called in about the fact the Essence hired a white fashion editor - who had been a consultant for almost 7 months prior. Essence has always been a diverse company. I am aware that the fashion industry has not been hospitable to African American women - that’s regrettably the reality. I can see that this would disappoint African American women, but on one level it’s a bogus issue since Essence has never been a fashion magazine, per se, like Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar. If the editor in chief had chosen a
f.a.d. magazine
white beauty editor then I would really question that and raise some eyebrows. In 2000 Time Inc. bought 49% of Essence and in 2005 bought the other 51%. In what ways do you think the sale has positively or negatively affected the magazine? It is important for me to know that the company I was selling Essence to made sure that the magazine would continue to become better and to grow. Time Inc. said to me, “Black women are just as important as white women.” Essence has increased circulation since Time Inc. purchased the magazine, and they have done an incredible job. How has Essence reached beyond the printed page to its audience through the website and the music festival, and why is it important to create a community outside the publication? The music festival is another mechanism and revenue stream for outside of the print media. The total number of people that come is over 400,000. If you look at the Essence website, advertisers know that they are buying a digital component and a print component. Using these forces allows you to reach the audience and reinforce the power of the brand. How did your high school and college experiences contribute to who and where you are now? I think my experience interacting with a variety of people in high school and my choice of going to college in New Mexico was helpful. It gave me a chance to travel across the country and observe America’s differences. You are forced to learn how to interact with many people, and over time you become a better person with respect to what makes people tick and what makes yourself tick. It’s who you meet - it’s about taking risks and just being open - being curious about people and about life. Lastly, how do you tie your ties, Windsor knot or a four in hand? Windsor tie. I do like to dress, by the way. My mother taught me to my best foot forward in how I present myself. I think that’s important.
fashion | art | design
An image from the Kings of Cole Fall 2010 lookbook. The luxury sweats company is known for its “ridiculously soft” jerseys and rose gold zippers, below left. Elana Byrnes,below right.
COMFOR
T ZONE:
kings of c
ole
ELANA BYRNES daphne taranto ‘11 and veronica williamson ‘13 catch up with the Dalton grad and founder/ creative director of luxury loungewear company
http://www.kingsofcole.com
Where does the name Kings Of Cole come from? Growing up, Old King Cole was my favorite nursery rhyme. The rhyme is about celebration and happiness. I want to inspire young people to have their legacies remembered and not just their name. What influences you, and what lead to those signature rose gold zippers? KoC is made to be the perfect hoodie for men and the perfect boyfriend hoodie for women – it’s all about couples. I’m a huge supporter of local museums, and one day I looked at different pieces of the jewelry at the Met where I found the inspiration for our signature zipper pull. The zipper is the jewelry of the hoodie, so it has to be unique. Can you tell FAD how your high school and college experiences have led you to this point of designing your own line of loungewear? I went to high school at Dalton and grew up in New York City, where I had a jewelry line. I sold my jewelry privately and to stores so I’ve always been an entrepreneur. I have found that I still email my whole Dalton network to update them about KoC. If you keep your eyes open and assume you can learn something from anyone, you will. Did the courses you studied in school affect what you’re doing today? I was a hospitality administration major, so I studied hotels and event planning. I found that I now use a lot of my event planning skills in the clothing industry.
What was the most important thing you learned through starting this company? For every yes, I’ve heard a thousand no’s. It’s important to believe in your work and take the negative feedback to heart, but don’t let it bring you down. For people who think it’s an easy road, its not. It’s rewarding, but not easy. Do you have a team that works with you? How does an idea become the product? We don’t call it a team at KoC – we call it a family. I come up with the specific details in the hoodie – like the hidden pocket – then it goes to the design consultant, product manager, and the manufacturer who sends back samples that I approve. Then it gets made and sent out. All of the people who help with this process are part of the family and they are what make it work. How did the launch come about, and how did you get into stores? To get into the stores I took the old fashioned approach. I put my samples in a bag and I walked from store to store and I asked to speak the store manager then did my pitch. It’s important to maintain relationships with the buyers because they’re everything. What advice do you have for an aspiring high school designer or entrepreneur? I think its very important to take internships and don’t beat yourself up bout knowing what you want to do – you can start a new career when you’re forty. Zip-up hoodie or pullover sweatshirt? I’m a pullover girl.
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
f.a.d. magazine 27
Latina magazine covers from October 2010 (teen actress Selena Gomez) + March 2010 (model Arlenis Sosa).
ELAYNE FLUKER + GALINA ESPINOZA of
LATINA MAGAZINE
alice taranto ‘11 chats with the editor of Latina.com and the co-president/editorial director of Latina Media Ventures about this fashion + lifestyle mag for Latin women assisted by Anastasiya Moroz ‘12 http://www.latina.com Alice Taranto: How do you keep teamwork, in-person brainstorming, group projects, and that sort of thing a part of the work behind Latina, since the digital side inherently involves so much computer work and not face time? Elayne Fluker: That’s a good question. The key is making sure that you keep in touch. It is my job as well as the editors’ jobs to find out what everyone is working on and to try to foster some kind of personal relationship. But as far as work goes, just checking in occasionally through the day to see how everyone is doing is important. Galina Espinoza: All magazines work best when they’re collaborative. It’s that idea of hearing each other, listening to each other, finding out what we’re all working on, what we’re interested in, what we’re watching, what we’re talking about. 28
f.a.d. magazine
AT: You mentioned there was an iPad app on the way … How do you think that will contribute to the whole “death of print” thing going on now? Do you think that print is on the out? How will you adapt to the impending changes in people’s magazine consumption habits? Will e-readers and the iPad really revolutionize the publishing industry? GE: What’s great about all these new technologies’ coming along is that they only provide additional opportunities for us to reach our audience. The rise of one technology does not mean the death of another. EF: People are trying to figure out how to maintain magazines and newspapers, but also have the iPad and iPhone app. You could write something for a magazine one way, or simplify it for an iPhone app, or write it differently for online – maybe using links to different stories, which you couldn’t do in print. AT: How do you approach or counter people for whom computers and the internet are not first nature, or if they didn’t grow up on the internet, how do you explain the importance of blogs and social media? Latina is a print magazine, but the digital part is so important also. EF: It’s tough for everybody right now. I don’t think there’s a way to move people one way or another. You kind of have to cater to both audiences, make sure the content complements each other. GE: Convincing people of the importance of the Internet is not a very hard to do. Certainly a new technology can be intimidating, but once you get past that fear factor most journalists really are excited by the possibilities that new technologies offer and look forward to being a part of it. AT: Elayne, was it a good transition switching your mindset from Brides.com, where you previously worked, to Latina magazine? EF: It was very different. But before I was at Brides, I was at iVillage.com, which is a women’s site, and now I’m at Latina. It’s a good experience, because now I know how to target these different audiences – even though most of the audiences I’ve worked with are female, they are still very different women. AT: Galina, how did your occupation, prior to being the Co-President and Editorial Director of Latina Media Ventures, as the Senior Editor of People magazine influence your work today? GE: People magazine gave me not only incredible training in terms of journalism, the business’s required news skills, and the kind of leadership skills required to be a manager, but also a lot of visibility as a high-profile person moving forward.
fashion | art | design
of things. But you also have to make yourself open to it. If you come AT: How did your college or high school experiences in with the attitude I-know-everything-there-is-to-know, and you go shape where you are today? off and do your own thing and don’t take advantage of the offered GE: Oh boy! [Laughs] Big question. I always liked to help and support from your neighboring people, you’re only hurting write, and I had a lot of teachers who really encouraged yourself. me to pursue that. I was also the editor of my high EF: A mentor of mine taught me about meeting the reader where he school newspaper, and I wrote for my college newsor she is. You have to get to know what interests her, know how to paper too. I kind of knew all along that I wanted to do engage her, what she’s excited about. The best editors don’t have to be the reader to know how something that involved writing. to create content for the reader. If you think EF: Yeah, [laughs], high school wasn’t too monuabout Anna Wintour for example, we all know mental for me. [Like as the editor in chief Galina,] I have always loved writing – it has of Vogue: fabulous life in New York, fabulous always been a part of my life, something that money, fabulous evI enjoy. When I went erything. When people Elayne Fluker, the editor of Latina.com, and Galina Esinto school, my major think about the readers pinoza, the editor of Latina magazine, pose with the was actually business. I of Vogue, they imagine August ‘10 Latina blowup cover of Christina Aguilera. did that through my sophomore it’s people just like her who are reading it. But those are year, and I hated it. It wasn’t the women who are featured in the my passion. After meeting with magazine. The women who really a couple of guidance counselors read it, when you look at Vogue’s and talking to people I realized numbers, are mostly in the Midthat with my passion for writing, west, a lot of them are housewives, there were opportunities for me very modest people, but they like to aspire to what the magazine does. to work in media or communications. Once I switched And Anna Wintour is not that [Midwestern] woman! She’s a totally to an English major, I just loved it – it felt natural for different thing, but knows how to create content as what that woman me, even though I still didn’t know exactly what I would wants to see. do when I got out of college.
”
The best editors don’t have to be the reader to know how to create content for the reader...Meet the reader where he or she is.
”
AT: Where do you see yourself going in the future? GE: Another big question! [Laughs] Well, I see myself going wherever this industry grows. It’s a very exciting time to be in journalism. I like the idea that 5 years from now the job that I do today will be completely transformed. EF: I’m very interested in video, video production, and television – I’ve been doing a lot more of that here and I did a lot of that at Vibe.com.
AT: What advice or recommendations do you have for teenagers interested in following career in publishing or breaking into media? EF: Try to tap into your passions. For me being in school, I already knew what I liked to do but I didn’t know how to make that work for me in a career. Try to step back and take a look at the bigger picture when you’re doing something new – don’t get stuck doing the same thing forever. GE: Write as much as possible and look for experiences wherever you can. And don’t be afraid to ask for help!
AT: Do you have a specific mentor or a phrase by which you live and work? GE: I’m lucky because I’ve had a lot of great mentors throughout my career. It’s just finding people who are older than you, who are at a place in their career that you would like to get to eventually, and just working closely with them – absorbing the ways that they work and learning from them. It’s positioning yourself to learn, and accepting that you don’t know [laughs] a lot
AT: After a day of computer work or blogging, ’s Latina e, what’s your favorite way to det u o k ebsit chec tech? btw - evamped w in r zine EF: I have been writing jour- newly maga z Library e h t d nals since I was 16 and have or fin Mann’s Kat a sube tin c had diaries since I was much Hora oud La r p a s i younger. The actual act of writ- - HM r! b i scr e ing is one of my favorite things to do to wind down.
horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
f.a.d. magazine 29
BLOG ON Didn’t think a blog could turn into a veritable business? Think again. These young journalists put their new-age media skills, humorous writing styles, and neighborhood savvy to the test - and passed with flying colors. justin burris ‘11 and alice taranto ‘11 have a little chat with the modern media powerhouses.
IZZY GRINSPAN + LOCKHART STEELE of
CURBED NETWORK http://www.gridskipper.com http://www.eater.com http://www.racked.com http://www.curbed.com
Alice Taranto: How would you explain Curbed, blogs in general, and the importance of the two to people for whom the internet is not first nature? How do you react to the blog-print competition? Lockhart Steele: What blogs are doing is not that different from what magazines and newspapers have been doing for decades. In blogging, we’ll get a little tip, idea, or rumor from a reader or we’ll pick up on something ourselves. The journalism essentially develops as the story goes live. In some ways, blogs get closer to the truth than print media because the story’s allowed to develop. The problem with a newspaper story or a magazine story is once you’ve
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published it, that’s really it. It’s worth saying – what we do here is not so super serious. We’re trying to entertain people. We’re not claiming that we’re here trying to change the world – we’re also trying to have some fun. Izzy Grinspan: As a blogger, I’m obviously on Team Blog. But I love magazines too. It’s much more visually satisfying to flip through giant glossy pictures than to scroll down a screen. The problem is that magazines are these big, expensive, lumbering beasts, and blogs are quick and nimble. In a business like fashion, which is so predicated on novelty, people love to have the newest information first and magazines just can’t keep up. LS: I’m someone who still buys the New York Times in print every day. I love newspapers. I think it’s just a question of what the purpose of the medium is. For instance, New York Magazine has a great website and pretty much everything that’s in their magazine is on their website, but I really enjoy the physical act of reading New York Magazine. There’s a visual appeal to the magazine format – I don’t see that disappearing. Justin Burris: How did your background and high school and college experiences have led you to where you are and what you’re doing today? IG: I always wanted to be a writer. The fashion part, though, took me by surprise. In college I majored in English, worked on the school newspaper, and interned at a local alt-weekly. I also did some costume design, but I was always much better at finding things at thrift stores – shopping, basically – than sewing. Afterwards, I moved to New York and spent about six months as a literary agent’s assistant before realizing that I wasn’t hard-nosed enough to be an agent. I then took the first full-time editorial job I could find – a gig producing a website about Jewish rock stars, and that led to a job managing an online Jewish magazine for two and a half years. When I saw that Racked was hiring, I jumped at the chance. LS: I was weird – I always wanted to be in the publishing world. I’m the kid who produced the newspaper in my fourth grade class, worked on a high school newspaper, and was an editor of my college newspaper. In my first job in New York I wrote for a really crappy technology magazine in a cheap office on 52nd Street. So here I’m 22 years old with a job like that and I was thinking, “All my friends went to work on Wall Street and are making real money and I’m not.” But for me it was just a case of follow what you love and keep doing what you’re doing. JB: When did blogging become part of the picture? LS: Blogging just came along at a lucky time for me. I sort of discovered blogs in 2000, when they were less-than-popular. I started blogging on LockhartSteele.com and got to know
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Nick Denton, who later started Gawker. 3 years after that he offered me a job… It’s not a perfectly straight line, but in my career one thing led to another. Serendipitously, but not randomly.
after logging hours on the internet? LS: Well, isn’t that one of the great questions of this generation? I make a real effort to keep my laptop closed on weekends. When you run a company, there’s always more work to do, and I’ve worked hard over the past few years to try to realize that you don’t have to work every hour of the day to run a business. The trick is just to remember that.
FRO how M THE into to tu P a su rn yo ROs: cces ur b s sto log ry to o
izzy: Never forget your audience. Even if you don’t have an audience—even if you’re blogging for your mom and your two best friends, or if you’re AT: Where do you see yourself and the sketching designs that you Curbed network moving in the future? have no budget to produce— LS: We don’t have some secret crazy plan. We always think about how you’re like our brains, we going to communicate your like our blogs, and Just do things. We live in an we’d like to bring ideas to other people. When you’re in the middle of doing era where it’s easy to try a lot - both to more cities. something creative, it’s so easy We’ll sell more ads to get lost in your own world, and you can fail on the cheap. – our adverbut you won’t get anywhere if tising team your work is just about you. It’s a very intense job and I’m just really lucky keeps getting better at selling ads – and we’ll lockhart: Work hard and do to work with incredibly motivated people. This keep on working. and try many things. JB: So Lock, do you have a main mentor or a phrase by which you live and operate your business? LS: Another day, another donut? [Chuckles] Some people get really into the whole startup thing. We try not to get too jargon-y or business-y. One thing I’ll say about Curbed is that these are really hard working people. They’re blogging all day and it can be really all-consuming.
is a profession that requires you to be really self-motivated. Also, our bloggers are accountable to their readers. If Amanda [Kludt, Eater’s NY Editor,] sleeps in today and there’s no post on Eater by 11 AM, I don’t need to get angry, her readers will get angry. The business word we live by here is “work hard.” JB: So working hard and being obsessed are the two keys to Curbed? LS: That sounds right, yeah. AT: How do you detach from technology
IG: I love working on the Internet, and I’d like to stick with it. I’d like to continue doing this kind of editing work, only on a bigger scale.
JB: What advice do you have for teens looking to become entrepreneurs or to follow career paths similar to your own? LS: I would just say do things. People, not just teens, always ask me advice when they’re thinking about starting something. We live in an era where it’s easy to try things. And you can fail on the cheap. I started Curbed with $2,000 of my own money, and I could prob-
ably do it for half of that now – that was in 2004. I would say just go for it and give your idea a try. IG: With blogs the key is to never forget your audience. Even if you don’t have an audience, always think about how you’re going to communicate your ideas to other people. You won’t get anywhere if your work is just about you. AT: Lock, our signature silly question for you is: Since you’re the connoisseur of New York, how do you get by being a Red Sox fan? LS: [Chuckles] I don’t. So the answer to how you survive is: very carefully. [Chuckles]
you e sure k a m d, p.s. Curbe t u o k chec Eater d n a , d Racke hey are .T online fter all! ,a blogs horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
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A WEEK’s PEEK INSIDE
Zoe Kestan ‘11 and Alice Taranto ‘11 got to spend a week inside the longtime teen fashion mag shadowing the sittings editor (aka Head Stylist) Betsy Mullinix
check out what they did that week, then hear from an array of the editors and minds behind seventeen!
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•We head up to the 17th Floor, of course, and meet Betsy and the handful of college-age fashion interns.
•Little to our belief, our morning job is to scour the streets of NYC looking for cute boys to give us quotes for a soon-to-be story in the Dec/Jan issue.
•Grab lunch on the grand, airy third floor. Yes, people eat lunch! This is no The Devil Wears Prada.
•We search through dozens of fashion rags searching for visual inspiration by way of magazine tearsheets. The task? Find places fit for Seventeen’s famous prom issue and its romantic, fun photoshoots.
Right, Seventeen’s 2010 Prom special.18year-old Selena Gomez was the cover
“One of the parts of Seventeen which I most admire is its involvement of the readership. Every person’s fan mail is really read, and the girls’ bear-all words often serve as inspiration for the magazine’s stories! It’s a fun way to keep it real.” -Alice
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•After lunch, back to the office. We type up our street notes from our boy-finding expedition.
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•We go through some Seventeen reader mail, reading insights and some heartbearing letters from the magazine’s die-hard fans.
ay
•We spent the whole day at a photo shoot! It was funfilled and active.
Sept. 1944: Seventeen’s first-ever cover, at a mere 13 cents! The mag’s logo has remained unchanged.
•We headed to the 16th floor. See the next page for our onset interviews!
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•Seventeen has upwards of 35 summer interns! “Intern School” provides a chance for the young aspirers to hear insider tips from 17. >>
•Once again, we take to the streets on behalf of Seventeen. We, the newest model scouts on the block, comb the streets and shops for cute girls, this time, to take part in the Seventeen Real Girl Style Council. This fantastic signature of the magazine takes fashionable girls and lets them style the season’s latest trends in bi-monthly fashion shoots. The girls also have blogs and v-logs on the site - check out http://tiny.cc/v6973 to (virtually) get to know the Council.
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•Zoe’s birthday. She turns 17 at Seventeen! It’s bashert -meant to be.
•We actually get to do some writing for Seventeen today!
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Howard Grier, Associate Publisher of Marketing at Seventeen Magazine
“If you’d like to get into the magazine industry, try and establish a better concept of what you would like to do: editorial or publishing. I work in marketing and I love it.”
To hear more from Betsy, check out F.A.D. Vol. 1 No. 2, p. 21 (online @ http://issuu.com/fadmag/ docs/fadissuetwo)
Hearst Tower, on 57th and 8th, is stately and glamorous.
Claire, like many of us, has to balance in schoolwork! The Chicago native writes essays during downtime on shoots.
Janeiro + Alberto Guzman, the makeup and hair designers from Wednesday’s photo shoot.
Claire, a model from the shoot, is a high school sophomore!
Cecily, a model from the shoot, is a college junior! Betsy Mullinix, Alice and Zoe’s point person for the week.
Wendy Hope, We d n e s d a y ’s photo shoot photographer (wit disco ball!)
Danny & Dana, the directors of Hearst’s in-house photo studios used for all Hearst publications.
“A good writer can find a story at any time and in any place. Find something, now, and just writethere’s always something to be reported on.” Carissa always works 6-8 months in advance. She needs to know what will be popular next season and what won’t be worth reporting anymore. Dana loves that “photography is basically problemsolving” and that she is ”forever a student” on the set. She built herself her first pinhole camera when she was just 8 y. old!
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AnneMarie Conte, the deputy editor at 17, from“intern school.”
Carissa, the entertainment director, has her finger on the pulse of all things teen.
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HEY YOU! Want to hear more from all of these cool people? Find the extended interviews at fadmag.com.
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the
physics
What’s Going On Here?
: on s y a zS ecti
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From the physics, a simplest event! M n ever-dazzling equals an irror reflection: ang le in age, imag gle out; that’s all in strikes the e, the perceptionthere is. Imis in our m e about Cha ye, reflected from Charlotte, inds. Light r lo tt e e n te Charlotte and inform rs the min s and the lig trikes the mirror, an d. Light reflected fr ation gle in equ om that would ht reflected from a ls a n g th le be reflecte e d from a s mirror is the same out, she there econd Ch . arlotte, welight Charlottes Same light, so he re is Char ; one real, re lotte again one imag imaginary : ined; the twin. lady and h two er
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Charlotte ChristmanCohen ‘11 wears a sequin jacket courtsey of Allan & Suzi. Makeup by Zoe Kestan ‘11. Photographed by Rachel Scheinfeld ‘12. 34
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F.A.D. is not only arts publication- we are inspired and thrive in the academic community that we come from! Here, we combine one of Horace Mann’s most popular courses, Physics, with our staple, fashion photography. Towards the end of the course, a subject in mirrors and lenses is taught; see how F.A.D brought those concepts into this spread! horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
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art makeup
LANDSCAPE WITH BUTTERFLIES 1956 by Salvador Dalí
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Charlotte Christman-Cohen ‘11 poses pretty in a top by Paige Burris ‘13. Real butterflies found lying still on F.A.D. staff members’ yards adorn her. A bold cerulean brow sweeps her face, as does the sky in Dalí’s masterpiece. Photographed by Zoe Kestan ‘11. fashion | art | design
MUSE WORTHY
Inspired by the energetic paintings of 4 famous 20th century artists, Nicole Dalessandro ‘11 envisions a new painted canvas -- the face Rachel Scheinfeld ‘12 and Paige Burris ‘13, stylists. Nicole Dalessandro ‘11, makeup designer. Diana Rheinstein ‘13, Alice Taranto ‘11, Zoe Kestan ‘11 and Daphne Taranto ‘11, beauty assistant. Digital editing by Alice Taranto ‘11.
WHITE CENTER (YELLOW, PINK and LAVENDER ON ROSE) 1956 by Mark Rothko
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Carla Thé ‘11 pouts moodily for this deeply beautiful Color Field style painting. Carla is wearing a lime velvet bib necklace by Daphne Taranto ‘ll, a silk-andrhinestone braided necklace by Alice Taranto ‘11, and stylists’ own clothing. 37 f.a.d. magazine
GOLD MARYLIN MONROE 1962 by Andy Warhol
GOLD MARILYN MONROE 1962 by Andy Warhol
Paige Burris ‘13 takes a cue from the golden girl herself. She smiles brightly in a teal top by Zoe Kestan ‘11. Photographed by Daphne Taranto ‘11 38
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Paige Burris ‘13 smiles for the camera in a top by Zoe Kestan ‘11. Marilyn Monroe, the actor and Hollywood sex symbol, was the subject for U.S. POP artist Andy Warhol’s famous silkscreen print. Photographed by Rachel ‘12. fashion |Scheinfeld art | design
GROWING IV 1988 by Keith Haring
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Diana Rheinstein ‘11 strikes a sharp profile in this Pop Shop Keith Haring jacket, courtesy of the vintage store Allan & Suzi (see p. 24 to hear from A & S themselves!). Photographed by Daphne Tarnto ‘11. 39 f.a.d. magazine
Alice Taranto (‘11) and Zoe Kestan (‘11) styled a romp through the local Larchmont graveyard in the spirit (pun intended) of Halloween. Photographed by Daphne Taranto (‘11).
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FOLLOW MY SPELL
On Carla The ‘11: sweater by Rodarte and skirt courtesy of Allan & Suzi; shoes and ring are stylist’s own; undershirt is model’s own. On Baci Weiler ‘12 (throughout): sweater by Comme de Garcons and shoes by Topshop Unique courtesy of Allan & Suzi; white dress and lace tights are stylist’s own. Chain necklace made by Alice Taranto (‘11) and Daphne Taranto (‘11). PHOTOGRAPH BY ZOE KESTAN (‘11)
low’s eve Photography assistance by Zoe Kestan (‘11). On-site assistance by Rachel Scheinfeld (‘12) and Hallam Tuck (‘11). Special thanks to Allan & Suzi (see p. 24). Digital editing and layout by Daphne Taranto (‘11). Models Carla Thé (‘11) and Baci (‘12). 41 horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1 f.a.d.Weiler magazine
On Baci Weiler (‘12): White organic lambsfur vest made by Daphne Taranto (‘11); black silk scarf, white dress, ring, and lace tights are stylist’s own. On Carla Thé (‘11): Black jersey dress courtesy of Allan & Suzi (see p. 24 for an interview with the two!); grey velvet top and heels are stylist’s own; black chain necklace (worn as belt) made by Alice Taranto (‘11) and Daphne Taranto (‘11). PHOTOGRAPH BY DAPHNE TARANTO (‘11).
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Dante’s inferno
On Baci Weiler (‘12) (throughout): sweater by Comme de Garçons and shoes by Topshop Unique, courtesy of Allan & Suzi (see p. 24 for an interview with the two!); white dress and lace tights are stylist’s own. Chain necklace made by Alice Taranto (‘11) and Daphne Taranto (‘11). PHOTOGRAPH BY DAPHNE TARANTO (‘11) .
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pout calling the kettle black
On Baci Weiler (‘12) (throughout): sweater by Comme de Garcons and shoes by Topshop Unique courtesy of Allan & Suzi (see p. 24 to hear from the two!); Black chain necklace made by Alice Taranto (‘11) and Daphne Taranto (‘11). On Carla Thé (‘11): sweater by Rodarte courtesy of Allan & Suzi; undershirt is model’s own. This and opposite page: PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAPHNE TARANTO (‘11).
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ALAS , POOR YORICK Carla Thé (‘11) poses with a real human skull. Feather jacket courtesy of Horace Mann costume shop; skull is stylist’s own.
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stop traffic in confident bold brights! be your own washington muse
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Best foot forward! Frances Ikwuazom (‘11) wears a lime green Jonathan Saunders dress and Top Shop shoes, courtesy of Allan & Suzi (see p. 24 for an interview with the two!). Red patent bag, stylist’s own. Photograph by Rachel Scheinfeld ‘12. 46
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One sunny Sunday morning, F.A.D. staff members met up in Washington Square Park, the heart of NYC, to begin a day of fashion, fun, and public transportation. The group split up into three several-person teams and did photoshoots in what we consider the quintessential spots of the Big Apple. The entire production of this shoot was student-produced, from the styling to the photography to the much of the apparel design. We hope you enjoy the adventure! models: clara pomi ‘13, lauren cantor ‘13, carla the ‘11, baci weiler ‘12, frances ikwuazom ‘11, antonio irizarry ‘12. makeup by Zoe kestan ‘11, daphne taranto ‘11, and alice taranto ‘11. styling by paige burris ‘13 and rachel schienfeld ‘12. horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1
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It’s showtime! This page: Lauren Cantor (‘13) sports a dress by Rachel Scheinfeld (‘12) and necklace by Daphne Taranto (‘11). Belt and shoes, stylist’s own. That page: Clara Pomi (‘13) wears a dress by Zoe Kestan (‘11) and necklace by Alice Taranto (‘11). Boots, stylists own; Baci Weiler (‘12) wears a velvet top and cotton skirt by Daphne Taranto (‘11). Shoes, stylists own; Carla Thé (‘11) wears a mesh/jersey striped top and silk charmeuse floral skirt by Alice Taranto (‘11). Belt and shoes, stylist’s own; BOTH PHOTOS by Zoe Kestan (‘11).
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This page from left: On Carla Thé (‘11) and Baci Weiler (‘12), dresses by Zoe Kestan (‘11) and necklaces by Daphne Taranto (‘11); On Clara Pomi (‘13), top by Alice Taranto (‘11) and skirt by Daphne Taranto (‘11); on Lauren Cantor (‘13), a dress (tucked in) and skirt by Zoe Kestan (‘11) and necklace by Alice Taranto (‘11). All Shoes, stylist’s own. BOTH PHOTOS BY ZOE KESTAN ‘11.
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head down to vibrant mulberry street for good eats and sweet treats!
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Atiores e ipsae no andi dol
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Antonio Irizarry (‘12) wears a gingham shirt, courtesy of Vol. 1 Issue 1 for our interview with Eli Chess, co-founder of bespoke suiting company and a Horace Mann grad!). es etur alitatur as aut alibus Tie, shoes, camera, and watch stylist’s own. Frances nonsendam dit re nonectiIkwuazom (‘11) wears a vindolores sitium inimincil int. tage dress courtesy of Allan & Suzi (see p. 24 to hear from the two!) Clutch by Rachel Schienfeld. (‘12) Coat, bauble earings, and belt, stylist’s own. PHOTO BY DAPHNE TARANTO 53 horace mann school | fall 2010 | vol. 2 no. 1 f.a.d. magazine ‘11.
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Lauren Cantor (‘13) wears a blue mermaid dress by Zoe Kestan (‘11). Antonio Irizzary (‘12) wears a blue check shirt courtesy of Eli Chess. Bowtie, stylist’s own. Jeans, belt , and shoes, model’s own. Frances (‘11) wears a navy jersey dress by Alice Taranto (‘11) and pink ribbon belt by Zoe Kestan (‘11). BOTH PHOTOS BY DAPHNE TARANTO ‘11.
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paint the town red in bold prints inspired by the far east
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Frances Ikwuazom (‘11) wears a gold brocade and black dress by Zoe Kestan (‘11) and chain necklace by Alice Taranto (‘11). Shoe are stylists own. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALICE TARANTO (‘11).
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Baci Weiler (‘12), co-junior editor of F.A.D., has a knack doodling, and we love it. Photographed by Zoe Kestan (‘11). Digital editing and layout by Daphne Taranto (‘11). 58
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were baci’s doodles FAD featured on the cover volume 1 no. 2 line at (check it out on m/fadmag)! o .c u u s is / :/ p tt h
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They really are just that, just doodles. I don’t know where the drawings came from - all I did was pick up a Sharpie and let the randomest parts of my mind appear on paper I mean denim!
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Hallam Tuck (‘11) wears his own shirt and socks, cheetah-print lace-ups courtesy of Allan & Suzi, and of course the pants! Baci herself wears her own pants and shirt with stylist’s shoes. 59 f.a.d. magazine
FAD Magazine Horace Mann School 231 W. 246th Street Riverdale, NY 10471
LIKE WHAT YOU SEE? 60
think seen you’ve all o f find f.a.d us .?
fad o face mag.wor nline at book dpre .c s twitt er.co om/hmf s.org ad m issu u.co /hmfadmmag m/fa dma ag g
contact zoe_kestan@ horacemann.org or alice_taranto@ horacemann.org to join F.A.D. or HM’s Fashion Design Club!
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