Life in the Finger Lakes Winter 2003

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WINTER 2003

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Volume 3, Number 4 • Winter 2003

F E A T U R E S

18

CAPTURING THE WINTER SPIRIT

24

“ENLIGHTENED” ITHACA

The photography of Steve Chesler

New York’s Gorges Oasis

By Hal Smith

43

SAFE HAVEN The forgotten story of the Holocaust refugees at Fort Ontario

By Joy Underhill

48

ANNUAL PHOTO CONTEST WINNERS The Finger Lakes seen through the lens

D E P A R T M E N T S

2

MY OWN WORDS

3

LETTERS

7

NEWSBITS

13

SPORT A Return to Skiing in the Finger Lakes

29

CALENDAR Festivals and Events

51

FRUIT OF THE VINE Winter Wines for Your Holiday Haute Cuisine

55

BOOK LOOK Finger Lakes Reads

57

INDEX OF ADVERTISERS

64

OFF THE EASEL W. F. Hopkins, Historical Painter

Cover Photograph: A snowy pond near Fishers.

Photo by Rikki Van Camp

Photo by Steve Chesler

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O W N

W O R D S

Support the Troops

A

s the holidays approach, I can’t help but think about the many men and women in the United States military who will not be home with their loved ones. We are currently at war, and a good portion of our military is involved in action in Afghanistan and Iraq. No matter what political views we have, we need to support our troops, and we need to support their families here at home. They have the hardest job Photo by Bob Cassie of all – waiting for their loved ones to return home safely.

Our military has its detractors and supporters. There are many political views when it comes to this country’s foreign policies, and I understand that we need many different ideas. That’s part of what makes our country strong – the voicing of diverse ideals without the consequences of prosecution.

That’s why people in the military put their own lives on the line. They are truly preserving the ideals of this country and keeping us free to voice our opinions.

You can show your support by helping the USO send one phone card to every service member in Iraq for the holidays. Call 1-800-876-7469, or visit www.uso.org/donate.cfm to make a donation for “Operation Phone Home.”

Elsewhere on the home front, there Oswego

has been a controversy surrounding the possible closing of the Candandaigua Veterans Administration Medical Center, a facility which is located within 12 miles of where I live. Many people from the community have shown their support in a variety of ways. I am disappointed in the lack of support that the government has shown to veterans in this matter, and I am proud of the local citizens who have become advocates for not only the veterans but also the beautiful building and grounds that make up the medical center. This is an on-going controversy that may be resolved by the time you are reading this issue.

Life in the Finger Lakes is proud to publish the winners of the 2003 photo contest. We received many worthy entries, and as the editor I wanted to include a photograph that didn’t make the cut, but became one of my favorites. “It’s a Great Day” (above) by Bob Cassie, epitomizes how we can turn diversity into something positive, for the duck certainly seems to be having a great time in spite of the weather.

mark@lifeinthefingerlakes.com

Areas of interest in this magazine issue

Geneva

Canandaigua

NEW YORK S TAT E

Naples Ithaca Hammondsport

The Finger Lakes Region of New York State

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EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION ART DIRECTOR/EDITOR . . . . . . . . . . . Mark Stash mark@lifeinthefingerlakes.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANCE . . . . . . . . Kari Anderson

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . David Diehl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J. Kevin Fahy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tina Manzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Carol C. Stash PRODUCTION ASSISTANCE . . . . . . . Kristin Grove

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bobbie Jo Trumbull CONTRIBUTORS . . . . . . . Peter and Kelli Bronski

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steve Chesler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kirk House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hal Smith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Joy Underhill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Laurel C. Wemett . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kim Wylie EDITORIAL OFFICE . . . . . . . . . . . . 315-789-0458 EDITORIAL FAX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315-781-6820 DIRECTOR

OF

ADVERTISING . . . . . . . Tim Braden tim@lifeinthefingerlakes.com

ADVERTISING EDITOR . . . . . . . . . . Tricia Burnett tricia@lifeinthefingerlakes.com

FOR ADVERTISING INQUIRIES (800) 344-0559 . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jason Hagerman jason@lifeinthefingerlakes.com

FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS (315) 789-0458 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tricia King

tking@fwpi.com BUSINESS OFFICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315-789-0458

800-344-0559 BUSINESS FAX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315-789-4263 Life in the Finger Lakes is published by Fahy-Williams Publishing, Inc. and owned by Eleven Lakes Publishing, Inc. Co-owners: Mark S. Stash; Timothy J. Braden. Copyright 2003 by Eleven Lakes Publishing, Inc. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Uncredited photographs and illustrations are by Mark Stash.

TO SUBSCRIBE, RENEW OR CHANGE ADDRESS: write to Life in the Finger Lakes, P.O. Box 1080, Geneva, New York 14456, or call 315789-0458. Subscription rates: $12.95 for one year.

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Serving the 14 counties of the Finger Lakes region Printed by Wilcox Press, Ithaca, New York

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L E T T E R S In response to “The Powers that Be” Mark, in your My Own Words section of the Fall ’03 issue of Life in the Finger Lakes you solicited readers’ thoughts on new wind power technologies as a legitimate option for an alternate power source. I am in strong favor of investigating this energy source as a real contender to traditional fossil fuels or nuclear power. The eastern United States is behind the curve when compared to the Midwest and western states as well as Europe in harnessing the wind’s energies.

Western New York is even behind counties to the east, in central New York, in taking advantage of this real potential power source.

I know of two such wind farms, south of the Thruway, just east of Syracuse. The first is the Madison Wind Farm in Madison County. It has seven windmills, each towering 300+ feet in the air. Its seven windmills went on line in 2000 supplying electricity from wind speeds of as little as a few miles an hour.

In this mostly agricultural area of central New York, the addition of this wind farm has sparked the side benefit of tourism and marketing in the form of tshirts, tours and postcards.

The second wind farm is located outside Canastota and is visible from the Thruway on clear days. This farm has 10 windmills and can generate power enough to supply a small city.

On a recent trip we traveled past the windmills which provided an extra thrill for my 7- and 5-year-old daughters who were excited to see the turbine blades rotate up close as we traveled by. Rather than an eyesore, I think these modern machines are a contrast to the rolling hills, yet they accent rather than take away the beauty of upstate. The quiet whoosh of the rotor blades are soothing in comparison to the sounds of any urban area.

A third project is under review to build a wind farm off the shores of Lake Ontario, near Oswego. I would think that would be a welcome alternative for the local residents as opposed to the existing nuclear plant there.

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upstate face difficult financial decisions about the future, wind farms may provide an alternative for some to selling out to developers ready to build another housing subdivision with rows of identical “pop-up” houses. I would think that there are several feasible sites within the Finger Lakes region for such projects.

And the thought of redefining upstate as a producer of a viable, clean, renewable energy source is equally appealing, with the potential of reclaiming New York State jobs and economic prosperity north of New York City.

Tom, Victor Hi Mark, In your Fall 2003 issue you asked for input on the subject of wind turbine power. I’m a native of Chautauqua County in western New York, and I’ve been in the Finger Lakes region for the past seven years, but from 1988 to 1996 I lived in Tehachapi, California, which has several large “windfarms” (as we called them) located in the mountain passes off Highway 58, so I can give you some insight into what it’s like to live in the midst of many wind turbines. I love nature, but I also love electricity.

Windfarms are a way to have both, if things are handled well.

I can’t speak for the current state of the windfarms in the Tehachapi area, but during the time I lived there I thought the wind turbines were an asset. While Tehachapi has many spectacular mountain views, the windfarms were located mainly in the hilly “shrub” areas that are naturally quite bare of vegetation, definitely not the case with the hills in the Finger Lakes.

The hilly areas of Tehachapi were scenic, but we’re not talking “take your breath away” territory.

The majority of the wind turbines near Tehachapi were the tall, single pillar structures with the multiblade impellers, but there were also a few of the Darrieus or “eggbeater” type of generators. Most of the wind turbines operated automatically, since they have their own electronic “brain.”

At the time, tours weren’t available to the the general public, i.e., as a regu-

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Wide Open larly scheduled event, but my husband did tour one of the farms because he “knew someone who knew someone“ who worked there. I always thought he was fortunate to have had that opportunity. I suppose insurance liability issues are the determining factor in how “open” a windfarm is. Whether or not farms are open to the general public, I think it’s important for farm operators to be accountable and honest with the community about their enterprise. That would benefit all parties involved.

Of course long before any construction takes place the local wind conditions must be extensively surveyed to ensure efficient windfarm operation. Believe it or not, you can actually have too much wind. You definitely want well-managed, solvent concerns running a windfarm. Regular maintenance needs to be done on the structures because broken-down, longidle wind turbines would have great eyesore potential in any location.

During our time in Tehachapi it was rare to see a turbine out of commission for long periods of time, but it did happen sometimes. Although safer and more efficient than a nuclear power plant, a windfarm is more land-area intensive than an equivalent capacity nuclear power plant. This is probably a windfarm’s greatest drawback. Then there are possible unintended consequences, such as the impact windfarms can have on the safety of birds and bats during migration.

The Tehachapi windfarms generated substantial amounts of energy (over one billion kilowatt-hours, or 41 percent of the state’s wind-derived electric energy in 1995), and they also provided much curiosity. I commuted back and forth from Tehachapi to Edwards AFB fives days a week and I always saw cars and RVs pulled off the highway with people taking photos and videos of the turbines in action. Never underestimate the possibilities of tourism!

Perhaps this sounds a bit goofy, but to me, when the wind turbines were up and running, they looked like a bunch of kids in white jumpsuits doing constant cartwheels in the hills. And to anyone who asked me what I thought

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Yours is an all inspiring magazine for this near 70-years-young emigrant from Honeoye Lake. It rekindles old memories of childhood days of endless exploration of the mysterious wonders of the Bristol Hills “old growth” terrain.

One idle note about the fall cover; in addition to the interesting composition, it is a good display of advanced poison ivy growth.

James, Hillsborogh, New Jersey This digital picture can’t even come close to adequately describing

the northern lights show we were given at no charge in our own humble backyard on October 30.

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N E W S B I T S Common Threads The Schweinfurth Memorial Art Center in Auburn has offered the popular contemporary exhibit

in beautiful

Downtown Ithaca December 5, 6, 7, 13 &14 Activities include: Pictures with Santa • Horse & Carriage rides Live reindeer • Hot chesnuts • Magic & Puppet shows Face painting by Elves • Live carolers • Ice sculpture demos • Plays at the Kitchen & State Theatres International Gala Fashion Show Michele Hardy, Reggae Vines

“Quilts=Art=Quilts” for over 20 years.

Now this exhibition has become one of the premiere juried quilt shows on the East Coast, with entries from all over the world. For the past few years, other historic and cultural sites in Auburn have joined in on the quilting theme with new exhibits, programs and lectures. Among them are the Cayuga Museum, the Aurora Inn, the Harriet Tubman Home, and the Willard Memorial Chapel. Call the Schweinfurth Memorial Art Center at (315) 255-1553 for dates and times.

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Ithaca Voted Best Healthy City in the Northeast The September/October 2003 Issue of Organic Style Magazine, a monthly, glossy periodical published by Rodale Inc., not only lists Ithaca as number 19 out of the top 25 healthiest cities nationally, the publication also singles out Ithaca as the best healthy city in the Northeast.

The article begins by stating, “You don’t have to be a progressively minded vegetarian activist to live in the heart of New York wine country – but it helps.” It then continues on to say that Ithaca, “not only ranks high on the healthy environment scale, but it also passes the highly subjective cultureand-style test.”

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N E W S B I T S Listed among the other six “oases,” Santa Fe, New Mexico, ranked best healthy city overall; Iowa City, Iowa, ranked best in the Midwest; Fort Collins, Colorado, ranked Best in the Rockies; Fort Meyers, Florida, came in at best in the Southeast; and Bellingham, Washington, ranked best in the Northwest while Honolulu, Hawaii, rated best big city.

Ithaca’s best healthy city in the Northeast status results in part from the lower level of toxicity due to little polluting industry there. The article also noted that the city has “a lively mix of academics from Cornell University and Ithaca College, vintners, organic farmers and preservationists, artists, musicians, and a community that teems with theater, politics, art festivals and music.” High marks in culture and style are important because, as Organic Style’s writers state, “Why live in a healthy city if you can’t have any fun?”

State Sets Aside a Day for Tubman According to the August 28 edition of the Syracuse Post-Standard, the state of New York is honoring the life and work of Harriet Tubman with a special day. Harriet Tubman Day, scheduled for March 10, 2004, is more a commemoration day than a holiday, so New Yorkers won’t be able to skip work. “But the 19th-century abolitionist, who made

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Auburn not only her home but a central part of the Underground Railroad, is getting official state recognition under a bill Governor George Pataki signed into law,” stated the article.

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N E W S B I T S Historians have an approximate year – 1820 – when Harriet was born on a Maryland plantation, but no exact date. She died on March 10, 1913.

In 1857, Harriet moved to Auburn, to a home provided by William Seward, former governor of New York and U.S. secretary of state. From there, she helped to run the Underground Railroad which shepherded hundreds of former slaves to freedom. She settled in Auburn and later bought the home.

According to the Post-Standard, “Tubman supporters were happy about the commemoration, but said they’ll continue to press for a state holiday in her honor, and ultimately, a national holiday.”

Finger Lakes Tourism and Counties of Steuben and Wayne Honored for Top Travel Guides

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Tourism professionals from across New York converged in Syracuse from September 30 to October 3 for the 2003 Governor’s Tourism Conference, where Finger Lakes Tourism and two of its member counties were recognized for their outstanding travel publications.

Top honors “for excellence in the creation of a publication judged to be the Best Regional Travel Guide Promoting New York State as a

Tourism Destination” went to Finger Lakes Tourism for its 2003 New York’s Finger Lakes Regional Travel Guide.

Coburn Design of Auburn also received a plaque for excellence for its

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N E W S B I T S work on this winning publication.

In the award category for Best County Travel Guides, two Finger Lakes counties were honored. Steuben County was first runner-up with Graphic Solutions of Painted Post and Baronet Litho of Jamestown recognized for their work on the 2003 Steuben County Travel Guide. Second runnerup was Wayne County for its travel guide created by Coburn Design of Auburn. The first-place award went to Oswego County.

Tourism generates over $37 billion annually for New York and is the state’s second largest industry.

New Natural History Museum in Finger Lakes 770 S. Main Street • Canandaigua 800-228-2801 www.visitinnonthelake.com

Launching visitors on a journey through the history of life on Earth, the Museum of the Earth in Ithaca opened its doors to the general public on September 27, 2003. Built by the 71-

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year-old Paleontological Research Institution, it is the first natural history museum in America planned entirely around the theme of the Earth as a set of interacting systems.

Located in the heart of New York’s Finger Lakes region, the 18,000-squarefoot exhibit and education facility brings one of the nation’s largest fossil collections to the public. With particular emphasis on New York State and the northeast United States, the Museum of the Earth explores the history of the Earth and its life through the lens of geology and paleontology, utilizing collections from the Paleontological Research Institution’s more than 3 million specimens.

Notable exhibits at the Museum of the Earth include: original artwork by nationally acclaimed paleo-artist Doug Henderson, the extraordinary 500-foot mural Rocks of Ages Sands of Time, the 12,000-year-old Hyde Park (New York)

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N E W S B I T S Mastodon skeleton, the skeleton of an endangered northern Atlantic right whale, four audio-visual object theaters, and an exhibit on the museum’s geothermal heating and cooling exchange system.

It is expected that the museum will attract 50,000 to 60,000 visitors annually, with more than half of the visitors coming from outside of the region. The museum is an important part of the Discovery Trail, a partnership of cultural organizations in Tompkins County.

As a center of Earth science education, the Museum of the Earth will serve nearly 2 million people, including over 500,000 elementary, high school, and college students, who live within a 100-mile radius of Ithaca and do not have convenient access to a natural history museum.

For more information, visit www.museumoftheearth.org.

Former Gorham Post Office Changes Location What began in November of 2001 as an inquiry of what to do with an old building turned into a campaign by the Town of Gorham Historical Society to save their old post office building.

President Laurie Turner of the historical society spearheaded the effort of saving the building from being demolished.

The post office had to be removed from its original site and would be lost to the town of Gorham forever.

Turner accomplished a number of tasks to make this happen. First she

W. F. H O P K I N S New York State Historical Painter

Light in Winter 2004 In January, a bright new light will appear over Cayuga Lake – Ithaca’s Light in Winter festival! Light in Winter 2004 promises a fusion of music, art, and science with exciting new collaborations from members of the Ithaca, Cornell University, and Ithaca College communities. This kaleidoscope of more than 20 festival events will brighten midwinter during the weekend of January 23, 24, 25, 2004. Internationally renowned performers include Paul Winter and the Paul Winter Consort, Mamadou Diabate of Mali and Samite of Uganda.

Light in Winter 2004 offers music, poetry, ice climbing, performance art, singing whales and more, plus Gallery Night and special exhibits and programs along Ithaca’s Discovery Trail for the entire family.

Plan now to attend Ithaca’s first Light in Winter and find out what magical things happen when you mix scads of spiders, a slam poet, a couple of whales, a Nobel laureate, walls of ice, world-class musicians, a sprinkling of snow, and an elephant! For more information visit www.Lightin Winter.com or call 800-284-8422.

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N E W S B I T S

The post office is transported to its new home.

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asked the owner of the building, Dean Williamson, to donate the building, which he did. Then, Laurie presented the matter to the Gorham Town Board, and then pursued grants from a number of different organizations, including a $4,220 grant from Assemblyman Brian Kolb, along with donations from local citizens. The building was moved to a new location on October 29, 2002, adjacent to the Gorham Free Library. Local individuals, groups and service organizations restored the building throughout the following year. The former post office building for Gorham was dedicated on October 19, 2003.

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Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars were noted in a September 29, 2003 U.S. News & World Report article about the health benefits of red wine.

Vinifera’s Fleur de Pinot Noir was cited as having the highest level of resveratrol, a chemical found in grapes, which may help lower cholesterol.

The article pointed out that wines produced in the Finger Lakes region are consistently higher in resveratrol than those produced elsewhere. Resveratrol is produced by the grape berry in defense against infection by molds.

Cool rainy and warm humid weather can encourage fungal growth and increase the production of this defense compound in the berry skin. “Red wines typically contain more of this compound because the skins are a major part of the wine-making process,” noted Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling of the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva.

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S P O R T

A Return to Skiing in the Finger Lakes

Finger Lakes Inn 4343 Routes 5 & 20 Canandaigua, NY

585-394-2800 800-727-2775

By Kimberly Wylie

I

remember being a kid. I remember playing in the snow until my lips were blue, my pant legs frozen stiff, and my mom bribing me with hot chocolate to get me to come inside. As I got older though, something changed, because being buried in the snow, and rolling down the wintery slopes until I became a human Photograph by Dorothy Kennedy snowball no longer held the same fascination – and comfort – they did in my childhood. With this change, my winter activities also evolved into more athletic endeavors.

Ice skating, skiing, anything that involved keeping in motion to make the cold more bearable, became my activities of choice, and for decades I still enjoyed winter.

Time passed. Work, kids and age took their toll and my “winter activi-

ties” slipped into warming up my car in the morning and the occasional sledding with my kids.

But, that glow, that wonderful golden glow that lights up the southern sky in late fall and signals the start of the snow-making season for Bristol Mountain Ski Resort and Hunt Hollow Ski Club, was drawing me – calling me back to ski.

Where to start though? It had been 12 years, 12 long years since I had “hit the slopes.” Although I grew up skiing, the slopes somehow seemed steeper than I remembered, and what was going on with these funny shaped skis?

Thankfully, a friend and incredibly gifted instructor, Barbara Strait of Bristol Mountain, was kind enough to share the following tips with me. Even if you haven’t taken the extended hia-

FINGER LAKES REGION SKI RESORTS Brantling Ski and Snowboard Sodus • (315) 331-2365

Labrador Mountain Ski Area Truxton • (607) 842-6306

Bristol Mountain Bristol • (585) 374-2253

Song Mountain Resort Tully • (315) 696-5718

Greek Peak Cortland • (607) 835-6100

Swain Ski Center Swain • (607) 545-6228

Hunt Hollow Ski Club Naples • (585) 374-8198

Toggenburg Ski & Snowboard Fabius • (315) 683-5543

Ask about our low “Ski” rates!

Only minutes away from all the winter fun

“Warm Up” at our Family Activity Center Free High Speed Internet Access in Every Room!

Extended Stay and Group Rates Available www.fingerlakesinn.com Circle Reader Service Number 115

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king Reservations Now Ta

The Francis Hall House c. 1869 NATIONAL REGISTRY OF HISTORIC PLACES SIGNATURE HOME

Explore all of the attractions of the famous Finger Lakes Wine Country...

T

he Francis Hall House has been lovingly restored by W.F. Hopkins, New York State Historical Painter and wife Caroline.

An award winning artist W.F.’s paintings are composed in classic Hudson River style and are in many prominent art collections, museums and even Presidential collections.

Guests are always welcome to enjoy the company of the artist in his classic Victorian “Church Street Studio” adjoining the main parlor.

Art, antiques, and books fill the rooms of this elegant and romantic historic landmark.

Enjoy the library of art books, memorabilia, photos and items, some dating to the original and other famous owner of the home Francis Hall.

Hall a prominent Elmira book dealer traveled the world,

most extensively to Japan where he kept an amazing daily journal and served as correspondent for Horace Greeley’s New York Tribune. (read - Japan through American Eyes, The Journal of Francis Hall, Kanagawa and Yokohama edited and annotated by F.G. Notehelfer).

Private Suites w/private bath and luxurious beds $135.00 per night double occupancy, including a fabulous breakfast. *Special Rates for College Guests, Area Medical Facility & Extended Stay.* (12% room tax added)

For reservations contact Caroline Hopkins: 526 W. Church Street, Elmira, New York 14905 Telephone (607) 734-9780 E-mail: francishallhouse@aol.com ~ www.Fingerlakesheritageprints.com bbonline.com

A FINGER LAKES DESTINATION Exit Rt. 17 (now Rt. 86) at Church Street~we are just 3 miles west on the right.

Circle Reader Service Number 147

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tus from the sport, as I had, these tidbits of ski wisdom are sure to make this season’s runs your best yet. As I soon learned from talking with Barb, skiing has changed – for the better!

TIP #1 – Take a lesson. Learn how to take advantage of the new ski technology. Just like oversized racquets changed the face of tennis, the shaped ski has revolutionized skiing. The slightly larger tips, gracefully arcing inward towards the center of the ski, and then widening again at the rear, suggest additional stability next to its straight-shaped brother, but it wasn’t until Barb (with the help of a miniature shaped-ski prop) turned the ski on its edge and applied a downward force, did I actually see the side cut in the ski translate into the ski gracefully curving in the direction of the downward edge, equating to beautiful sweeping turns with minimal effort from the skier. Not only will taking a lesson help you learn to use your equipment to its utmost advantage, but a ski instructor is an excellent tour guide as well, especially when you’re skiing a new mountain.

TIP #2 – Open up your stance. This was a surprising one for me, although when I considered the physics of this tip, it really made sense. I had grown up with the impression and instruction that a narrower stance was the best way to ski (at least it looked pretty cool).

But, by opening up your stance, not only do you give yourself a wider base of support; you’re also able to use both skis in a turn. In a narrow stance, as you lean into the hill, most of your weight is translated into your uphill ski, exactly what you don’t want to happen.

Widening up your stance allows you to keep pressure on that downhill ski, giving you more control.

TIP #3 – Stand up straighter and keep your head up. Let your skeleton bear the weight of your body. When you lean forward, from the waist, you put much more strain on areas including

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Intimate - Casual - Fine Dining by the fireplace. We combine the traditional with the trendy using only the finest ingredients.

3610 Pre-Emption Road • Geneva 315-789-8498 www.pastaonlyscobblestone.com

Fine Mediterranean cuisine and gracious accommodations in a southern mansion...Perfect for that special occasion!

Gift Certificates & Special Winter packages available.

206 West Cortland Street • Groton 607-898-5817 • www.benncongerinn.com

Creative Fusion Cuisine

THE FLAVOR OF

THE FINGER LAKES

Famous for our Italian cuisine, served in a Friendly Family atmosphere since 1954. Family owned and operated for three generations.

156 W. Utica Street • Oswego 315-343-3540 • www.canalesrestaurant.com

An intimate Bistro setting, offering a unique variety of Asian-style dishes. Select from wines and beer of the world.

486 Exchange Street • Geneva 315-719-0333

Nonna’s Trattoria Classic Italian Cuisine

Use American Express ® Cards and

Casual, Friendly, Charming & Cozy A must during the holidays!

Travelers Cheques at these and other

3365 East Lake Road • Canandaigua 585-394-8254 • www.lincolnhill.com

1 Railroad Place • Downtown Geneva 315-789-1638

A tradition of fine dining since 1833, this historical landmark is located in the scenic Genesee valley village of Geneseo.

The Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars features fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere, award winning wines and luxury accommodations all overlooking beautiful Seneca Lake and the vineyards.

46 Main Street • Geneseo 585-243-5220 • www.bigtreeinn.com

5435 Rte 14 • Dundee 607-243-9500 • www.glenora.com

Quality, Consistency and a Friendly Atmosphere

fine establishments.

Take a dash of atmosphere. Toss in a pinch of great service. Flavor with great food. Then add the American Express Card and mix well for a great dining experience anytime in the Finger Lakes.

D & R Depot Restaurant Take a step back in time as you dine in a restored train depot where the food is homemade & the service is attentive.

Views unlike any other restaurant on Canandaigua Lake. Great Food! Adirondack Styled Restaurant with 14-foot Christmas tree.

Banquet facility - Open lunch & dinner

Movie themed art deco design casual family style restaurant. A great selection of Italian specialties, sandwiches, burgers, antipasto, pizza and a full bar.

Creative food in a sophisticated surrounding. Extensive Finger Lakes wine list & martinis.

63 Lake St. (Rt.19) • LeRoy (585) 768-6270 • www.dandrdepot.com

205 Lakeshore Drive • Canandaigua 585-396-7350 www.steamboatlandingonline.com

27 Groton Ave. • Cortland 607-753-3242

Hamilton 258 Restaurant & Martini Bar 258 Hamilton St. (Rt 5&20) • Geneva 315-781-5323 • www.hamilton258geneva.com

M oretti’s Comfortable, casual bistro serving French and Italian country food.

24 Winthrop Street • Rochester 585-454-6020 • www.2vine.com

Discriminating people in increasing numbers year after year have chosen Moretti's as their favorite place to enjoy the finest Italian & American foods, steaks & chops.

Moretti's Restaurant 800 Hatch Street • Elmira 607-734-1535 • www.morettis-restaurant.com

To enjoy offers in the Finger Lakes region, log on to: americanexpress.com/upstateny Circle Reader Service Number 101

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your back and knees, increasing fatigue. In addition, by keeping your head up you help maintain your balance. Give it a try. Stand up and look straight ahead, and then drop your head forward and look down at the ground, feel the weight of your head pulling you forward, increasing the strain on your shoulders and neck. It’s just so much more comfortable and less stressful to keep that head up, again letting the skeleton of your body take the weight, as it was designed. Plus, keeping your eyes up is safer, which brings us to our last tip.

TIP #4 – Each season review your favorite slope’s safety rules. Most rules (as they typically do in life) fall into two categories: common sense and common courtesy. Rules such as watching for others uphill as you start downhill, or when you enter a new trail, giving those downhill the right of way, keeping a safe distance from fellow skiers and others, ensures that everyone has a safe and fun time skiing.

S

o, you’re all set to hit the slopes, but where to go? Lucky for us, the Finger Lakes region has several ski resorts that appeal to skiers of all abilities. Among them are Hunt Hollow Ski Club and Bristol Mountain Winter Resort.

Imagine having a ski resort virtually to yourself and a handful of your friends. Imagine almost no lift lines, plenty of elbowroom on the slopes, and an attentive staff to assist you with your every ski need. It’s not your imagination – it’s real! With 18 trails that encompass more than 80 acres of skiing delight, Hunt Hollow Ski Club has skiing for everyone. From those who’ve never been on skis, to mogulloving ski aficionados, everyone will enjoy Hunt Hollow.

This members-only ski resort features the second-highest mountain of the western New York ski area, with an 825-foot drop. With a recent $1 million snow-making expansion, slope grooming twice a day, and light ski traffic, this

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Morning Commute. is some of the best snow you’ll find in the Finger Lakes. Even the warm winter of 2001-2002 didn’t stop Hunt Hollow members from enjoying the slopes.

These lucky members skied every weekend from Christmas to late March, during a season when the area received very little natural snow.

A 3,100-foot triple chair gets you to the top of the pristinely groomed mountain quickly, or an 800-foot T-Bar gets novice skiers to a gentle slope perfect for the beginner. Add to this a dedicated staff of professional ski instructors and you can see why Hunt Hollow brings out the best in skiers as young as 2-1/2 years of age.

This is the place for families. The club atmosphere means that it is easier and safer for kids to learn how to ski – and even easier for adults to learn to ski too, without the bustling slopes associated with commercial ski resorts.

Combine all of that with a 9,600square-foot lodge, complete with catered home-style meals, a kid’s playroom for when the youngsters need to take a break, a snowboard terrain park, ski camps, racing programs, a full-service rental and service shop with stateof-the-art equipment and professional technicians, and a very affordable membership, and you’ll see that Hunt Hollow has it all.

N

estled between Canandaigua Lake and Honeoye Lake, Bristol Mountain Winter Resort is the flagship resort for ski slopes in the Finger Lakes area. Thirty-two trails cover more than 140 acres of skier heaven, on this 1,200-foot mountain. At 4,500 feet, Bristol’s Milky Way trail is the longest in the region. With immaculately groomed slopes, it’s no wonder why Bristol Mountain is a favorite of skiers from near and far.

Continued improvements at Bristol keep it a forerunner of the industry. With 93 percent of its slopes equipped with high-tech snow-making equipment, Bristol has more ski days and better skiing than ever.

(Continued on page 63)

It’s always a smooth ride in Lake Country.

In Ontario County, winter’s filled with ups and downs – lots of ups and downs!

With the tallest peaks west of the Appalachians and east of the Rockies, Ontario County is your highway to fun! And if you’re looking for the scenic route, we’ve got miles of cross-country trails waiting to be explored.

But it’s not just the peaks. Our five lakes were made for ice-sailing. And the ice-fishing can’t be beat. So visit Ontario County – no matter what road you take, we know you’ll like what you find.

For a FREE Visitor’s Guide to Ontario County in the Finger Lakes Region,

call 877-FUN-IN-NY

www.VisitFingerLakes.com Circle Reader Service Number 116

DECEMBER 5 - JANUARY 18

Opening Reception Friday, December 5th 5:00-7:30 pm “Along Sandy Creek” by Judy Soprano

Open House on “Sparkle Night” Saturday, December 6th 6:00-8:00 pm

12 WEST MARKET STREET • CORNING, NEW YORK • 607-936-2011 www.westendgallery.net • e-mail: info@westendgallery.net Circle Reader Service Number 145

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Cold winter bring a wealt ries that warm Isolated mom sense of peac Cold Winters, Warm Memories The Photography and Thoughts of Steve Chesler

C

old winter evenings bring

a wealth of memories that warm the heart. Isolated

moments bring a sense of peace and solitude. Fresh snow

crunches underfoot on a calm winter evening as dusk fades.

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ter evenings alth of memoarm the heart. oments bring a ace and soliWINTER 2003 ~

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The smell of a entle snow falls soothing whisp reeze brushing he warm glow o 20 ~ L I F E

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a fireplace as a alls in silence; th hisper of a cold ng the pine fores w of a cabin on T

he smell of a fireplace as a

gentle snow falls in silence;

the soothing whisper of a cold

breeze brushing the pine forest; the warm glow of a cabin on a lonely

dirt road. These moments refresh

the spirit and awaken the creativity to capture winter’s spirit.

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Winter evoke self-healing a tion. It bring inner child in rush to the w W

inter evokes a time of

self-healing and inspiration.

It brings forth the inner child

in me as I rush to the window in anticipation of a new fallen snow. Each season has its

moments of splendor. For me, it's winter’s warmth from

within that is my driving force.

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okes a time of g and inspirangs forth the d in me as I e window in Chesler Photography • (585) 393-9242 • www.cheslerphoto.com

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“Enlightened”

Ithaca

By Hal Smith ne of the best kept secrets about New York is that, about an hour north of the Big Apple, the state is a mostly rural and often unsophisticated place.

Case in point: I live near an upstate village where, shopping in our only supermarket, I once asked a clerk where the artichoke hearts were hiding. She looked puzzled for a moment before her face brightened and she asked, “Have you checked the meat department?”

So in 1997, it might have come as a surprise when the leading “alternative” magazine, Utne Reader, put upstate Ithaca at the top of its list of the 10 most enlightened towns in the U.S. But it was hardly a surprise to me. I’ve lived within 60 miles of Ithaca for more than 35 years and, for those of the “alternative” persuasion, the Finger Lakes college town has long been a hip oasis of great restaurants and shops, intellectual stimulation, a vital music scene and spectacular natural beauty. It is one of a handful of places in America where the alternative culture of the ’60s established a beach head and is still letting its “freak” flag fly.

Ithaca’s prime example is the Moosewood Restaurant, the world-famous vegetarian restaurant celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. It was started by a collective of seven young people with no formal culinary training and little restaurant experience. Today, with a middle-aged core, the

Photo by Charles Harrington/courtesy of Ithaca College

New York’s Gorges Oasis

collective has grown to 19 members who have produced a steady stream of best-selling cookbooks while running a restaurant that, according to Bon Appetit, is one of 13 that has revolutionized the way Americans eat (the list runs from Chez Panisse in

Berkeley to McDonald’s).

The collective has won awards from the James Beard Foundation, both as a regional restaurant as well as for its cookbooks. In observance of its anniversary, the Moosewood Restaurant Celebrates will be released in October. The restaurant’s 10th book is, fittingly, a collection of recipes for parties and special occasions.

With the possible exception of Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream, it’s hard to think of any nationally known food business founded by hippies that has not only survived but thrived, all the while clinging to its counterculture image and principles.

“If someone told me in 1976 that I’d still be here today, I’d be shocked,” said David Hirsch, one of the collective’s earliest members.

In the ’70s, eating in a vegetarian restaurant could be a pretty grim affair, when ideology rather than tastiness ruled the kitchen. But, from the beginning, the Moosewood’s founders were never hardcore vegetarians and served a meat entree every day (indeed, even today, many members of the collective are omnivores, though meat has been dropped

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Moosewood Restaurant patio

Photo Courtesy of Ithaca College, photo by Shai Eynav

Sheryl D. Sinkow

Dorinda White

24-28.LIFL.Winter.Ith.03

Ithaca Farmer’s Market

from the menu and replaced by fish).

“We’ve never made people feel uncomfortable about what they like to eat,” Hirsch said. “We took vegetarian cooking, which was considered wacky, and made it a flavorbased part of the mainstream.”

Although it grosses $1 million a year and is a destination restaurant that draws visitors from all over the world, the Moosewood’s low prices don’t allow the kind of profit margin that, split 19 ways, is making any of its owners rich.

Lunches are $6.50 and dinners are $11 to $15. On Tuesday nights starting in early fall, all entrees are less than $10.

Tucked into a corner of a refurbished former high school, the 70-seat restaurant is an unpretentious, highceilinged place with plenty of attractive woodwork, a bar and lounge, and wood chairs at simple wood tables lighted overhead by old school fixtures. “As one of my co-workers once joked, first-time visitors usually expect a much bigger place with much taller waiters,” Hirsch said.

Hirsch attributes the restaurant’s success to its culinary creativity, which has produced more than 2,000 field-tested recipes for the cookbooks. Although only a few hundred of the recipes are served in the restaurant, they reflect a fusion style that, for example, combines Japanese seasonings and Indonesian ingredients to create a stuffed, braised eggplant.

On Sunday nights, the small kitchen produces ethnic dishes.

A recent ethnic night featured North African cooking: Morrocan stuffed eggplant, spinach almond beureks (a dish wrapped in phyllo dough), vegetable tagine (stew), and fish with a chermoulla sauce (a spicy melange including lemons, tomatoes, and cilantro).

The ethnic influences reflect, in part, the fact that Ithaca is a surprisingly diverse community – 13 percent of residents are Asian. This is largely attributable to the generous resettlement of Vietnamese and Tibetan refugees, plus the large numbers of foreigners at Cornell University, whose stature attracts 20,000 students, 16 percent of whom come from abroad. The Dalai Lama, who has visited Ithaca three

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Ithaca College

times, apparently finds the area hospitable, too: the North American seat of the Dalai Lama is a modest house in a residential neighborhood of Ithaca, where the spiritual leader has established a satellite of his personal monastery in India.

Ithaca’s international flavor also gets a literal translation at the Farmer’s Market, a venerable institution where you can buy everything from locally-grown seasonal vegetables (you won’t find ringers selling oranges) to ready-to-eat Sri Lankan cuisine, sushi, homemade jellies, wine, cheese and handcrafts.

While most small towns offer farmers little more than a vacant lot, the 125 members of the market organization have a classy permanent home at which they gross $4 million a year. With roof lines and a footprint styled after a 13th century European cathedral, the waterfront market building is open-sided to catch the summer breezes coming off Cayuga Lake. Live music, dancers, kids shows or shenanigans such as the annual Rutabaga Toss (a zany version of bocci), make the market a fun place to spend a weekend morning or have a lakeside picnic lunch. The market is open rain or shine; Sundays (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.) are less crowded than Saturdays (9 a.m. to 2 p.m.), when as many as 5,000 may show up.

With 6,000 more students at Ithaca College (the other college on a nearby hill), it is clear that the two institutions are the dominant factor in the economy and cultural life of the city (population 30,000). It is the quintessential college town – irreverent, and simultaneously cosmopolitan and idealistic.

• EcoVillage, two miles outside of town, is a kind of dream community of 30 highly energy-efficient homes clustered on three acres so that the rest of the 172-acre site remains open for organic gardens, orchards, woods and wetlands. Families live in their own affordable homes but enjoy the benefits of cooperative living. The so-called cohousing movement, which began in Denmark in the late 1960s, caught on very early in Ithaca, and now more than 50 similar communities have been built across the U.S. • At the Community Alternative School, which is part of the public school system, the kids vote with faculty and

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Charles Harrington

Courtesy the Sciencenter

24-28.LIFL.Winter.Ith.03

Ithaca Commons

Sagan Planet Walk

staff on how to run things, and students grow lettuce hydroponically to supply the school cafeteria. One of the school’s graduates, now a teacher at another school, is an alternative fuels enthusiast and shade-tree mechanic who runs his pickup truck on used vegetable oil.

• The Tompkins County Public Library is powered by a large solar electric system.

• While upstate New York (excluding some large cities) votes solidly Republican, Ithaca once elected a socialist mayor.

• For many years, the city has been using its own local paper currency, called Ithaca Hours, along with federal greenbacks. The currency exchange has been a model for dozens of other communities all over the world.

• Ithaca is friendly to homegrown entrepreneurs, but when Wal-Mart attempted to move into town, the locals won one of those rare victories against the biggest of the big boxes and kept the retailer out. The re-purposed brick school building that houses the Moosewood passes for a mall in Ithaca, and there is not a franchise among its 15 shops.

S

imilarly, the stores are locally owned in the Commons downtown. It’s a thriving pedestrian mall that has been named one of the state’s top architectural projects for having preserved an historic small-town look and feel. The Commons features local artists’ sculptures and, during the summer, more than 50 free concerts showcase some of the best local talent during lunch-hour, twilight and evening concerts.

Look over top-of-the-line handcrafts, fine art and European porcelain, or, perhaps, stop in at the Ithaca Hemp Company, one of several “head shops” downtown, to buy a handblown glass pipe. There’s also paraphernalia for dogs at a popular pet salon (self-serve or drop-off); it’s called – forgive the frat house humor – Doggie Style.

Although the Moosewood is the city’s signature restaurant, more than 40 others offer everything from upscale dining to cafe fare, from great bagels to inexpensive Vietnamese.

Ithacans sustain an art cinema house, several Off Broadway

Cornell University, Lab of Ornithology theaters, plus at least six independent bookstores.

One of the clearest signs of Cornell’s influence downtown is the Sagan Planet Walk, which is both a scale model of the solar system as well as a memorial to Carl Sagan, the late astronomer. The center of the Planet Walk is the Sun Station, an obelisk on the Commons. This is one of the few walkable solar models in the world and, if you follow it out to Pluto, you’ll go three-quarters of a mile to the edge of the city; you can’t walk to the nearest star, however, because it would be as far away as Hawaii.

The miniature solar system extends to the hands-on ScienCenter, an excellent museum for children and families that features 100 indoor and outdoor exhibits, including clever gadgets and displays built by Cornell scientists and students. An expansion this year tripled the size of ScienCenter, which is strongly supported by the community with cash and volunteer labor. But even adults who majored in English can have fun here: at one exhibit you stand in front of flood lights fitted with colored bulbs, where you will discover that your shadow is not gray but a darker shade of the lights’ color.

Although its sprawling 745-acre campus can be intimidating at first, Cornell is classic Ivy League and an architectural feast well worth savoring. Start at the information center at Day Hall, corner of East Avenue and Tower Road, where you can pick up a map and a list of events, or go on a free, student-guided tour. Consult a free copy of the Cornell Chronicle to see if any of the free or inexpensive art films, lectures, concerts or sporting events appeal to you. Here are a few other possibilities.

• Admission to the Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art, designed by architect I.M. Pei, is free and usually not crowded.

Even if you are not interested in its notable Asian collection, go there for the view: the windows wrapping around the fifth floor offer a stunning panorama of the city and Cayuga Lake.

• Take a journey back in time and visit the Museum of the Earth, which recently opened its doors to the public.

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WHEN YOU GO Ithaca has 17 hotels, motels and inns, and more than 50 B&Bs. But rooms are scarce during major college weekends, such as commencement and homecoming. For a guidebook to Ithaca and the Finger Lakes, call 1-800-28-ITHACA or visit www.visitithaca.com. When you arrive in Ithaca, stop at Clinton House (607-273-4497), 116 N. Cayuga Street, just off the Commons. The historic Greek Revival building is a onestop shop for brochures, directions and tickets for all local entertainment. For a guide to arts and entertainment, pick up a copy of the Ithaca Times, a free alternative weekly.

For details about the Ithaca Farmers Market (Steamboat Landing on Third Street, off Rt. 13), call 607-273-7109 or visit www.ithacamarket.com.

For Cornell University visitor information, call 607-254-INFO or go to www.cornell.edu/CUHomePage/ Visiting.html EcoVillage is on West Hill, off Rt. 79, on Rachel Carson Way. Call 607-273-3440 or visit www.eco village.ithaca.ny.us The Moosewood Restaurant is at 215 N. Cayuga Street in the DeWitt Mall.

Call 607-273-5327 or go to www.moosewoodrestaurant.com.

The ScienCenter is at 601 First Street. Call 607-272-0600 or go to www.sciencenter.org.

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Courtesy Tompkins County Public Library

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Dorinda White

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Cascadilla Creek This paleontological research institution is a place for people of all ages, interests and backgrounds. Both the serious fossil hunter and the interested elementary school student will be thrilled to discover facts in the major history museum of upstate New York.

• Stroll through Cornell Plantations, a 250-acre arboretum and botanical gardens, including heritage vegetables and herbs. Drop-in, selfguided tours are free; guided tours at 10 a.m. on Wednesdays and Saturdays during the summer are $3.

• If you live in one of the 43 percent of American households that feeds wild birds, you will enjoy the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, the premier bird conservation and research center in the United States. Its 224-acre sanctuary and visitor center, on the edge of a 10acre pond, is an ideal environment for bird watching and interactive exhibits.

In June, the lab, which holds the world’s largest collection of bird sounds, opened a $26 million facility that is five times bigger than the former site.

For directions to the lab, a shortdrive from the campus, go to www.birds. cornell.edu or call 1-800-843-BIRD. Any fair-minded Ithaca booster would have to admit that other college towns – Austin and Berkeley, for example – are arguably as culture-rich.

Yet, geology makes Ithaca incomparable. The glaciers that blessed central New York with the Finger Lakes also created microclimates around them that are superb for growing grapes.

About a dozen wineries on the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail, which starts in Ithaca, are spread along Route 89 on the 40 miles of the western shore.

The Finger Lakes is the oldest wine district in the East.

Tompkins County Public Library But the most alluring aspect of the area’s geology is summed up by the city’s popular bumper sticker: Ithaca Is Gorges. Three of the state’s six gorge parks are nearby. The gorges collect water which crashes down more than 150 waterfalls within 10 miles of the Commons, including Taughannock Falls, which, at 215 feet, is taller than Niagara Falls. The falls and gorges made dramatic backdrops for movie producers from 1912 to 1920, when the movie industry flourished in Ithaca, then called “little Hollywood.” Admittedly, the scenic water features are often disappointing in the summer, when the gorges are sometimes nearly dry.

But no matter what the time of year, the many trails through the city and nearby state parks make Ithaca prime ground for hikers. However, if you are pressed for time, you can take an exhilarating hike without leaving the city. The Cascadilla Creek Gorge trail follows the creek as it tumbles down a spectacular gorge for 1.3 miles, from Cornell to the city. You can enter the trail a few blocks from the Commons at University Avenue and Court Street.

Whether you take this unforgettable trail up to one of America’s greatest universities or down to the city, there’s plenty to engage you at both ends. Meanwhile, we upstaters may find it a little inconvenient when it comes to finding the artichoke hearts, but many of us are content as long as wild turkeys strut around in the front yard and Ithaca is within cruising distance.

Hal Smith is a freelance writer who resides in Windsor, New York

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The Region’s Premier Magazine

WINTER S P E C I A L

C O N T E N T S Museums............................................pg. 37

Businesses ..........................................pg. 36

Real Estate ........................................pg. 31

Dining................................................pg. 37

Unique Products & Shops..........pgs. 33-35

Marinas..............................................pg. 37

Wineries......................................pgs. 32-33

C A L E N D A R &

E V E N T S

Now-Jan 25…13th Annual Miniature/Dollhouse Show Glenn Curtiss Museum, Hammondsport 607-569-2160

Dec 1-24…"It's A Wonderful Life" Celebration The town of Seneca Falls depicts Bedford Falls from the classic holiday film and invites everyone to join in the festivities 315-568-6894

November 2003

Dec 2-20…Holiday Show Wayne County Council for the Arts, Newark. Gallery Hours are Tues-Sat 11-5pm 315-331-4593 Dec 3-7…The Nutcracker featuring Syracuse Symphony Orchestra & North Carolina Dance Theatre 6 performances of this holiday favorite 315-424-8200 or 800-724-3810

(Calendar continued on page 33) Life in the Finger Lakes recommends that you call ahead for complete details on the listings or visit our website at www.lifeinthefingerlakes.com and link to all 14 county chambers of commerce for complete listings.

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Nov 28-30…Holiday Festival of Crafts Fine handcrafts in many media by this nationally recognized crafts community in the Finger Lakes, including pottery, wooden toys and furniture, books and cards, clothing, and weavings. The Harley School, Rochester 585-554-3539 www.rfag.org

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Now-Jan 4..."Amish Quilts" At the Cayuga Museum, Auburn. Donations accepted 315-253-8051

Nov 29-Dec 21…Moore Tree Farm Family fun for all ages, with wagon rides, candy canes & coloring books, Santa on ATV, pony rides, delicious foods. Weekends 888-597-TREE

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Now-Jan 3..."Threads of Heritage & Quilts of the Underground Railroad" At the Harriet Tubman Home, Auburn 315-252-2081

Nov 29…8th Annual “Childhood Memories” Miniatures vendor show & sale. Glenn Curtiss Museum, Hammondsport 607-569-2160

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Now-Dec 24…49th Annual Art Mart An incredible sale of original work by over 50 area artists and craftspeople. The Greenhouse at City Hall Commons, Syracuse 315-435-2154

Nov 28-Dec 21...Dickens' Christmas in Skaneateles Every Saturday and Sunday, plus a mini Dickens’ on Dec. 24. Enjoy strolling Dickens' characters horse-drawn carriage rides, carolers, live music, visits with Scrooge and Father Christmas.

315-685-0552

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Now-Dec 7…Festival of Trees at Granger Homestead & Carriage Museum, Canandaigua. Theme decorated Christmas trees, wreaths, mantel decorations.

585-394-1472 www.grangerhomestead.org

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Finger Lakes Accommodations Voted one of the “Most Romantic Places in New York State”

THE

VAGABOND INN

“Wine Spectator” award winner for ten consecutive years • Enjoy exceptional multinational cuisine in a truly unique dining atmosphere • Spend a romantic evening in one of our enchanting period guest rooms in century-old Belhurst Castle or historical White Springs Manor • Celebrate your special occasion in the comfort and elegance of the Castle Ballroom

Lodging Dining Receptions Banquets

Serenity, total renewal and rejuvenation are yours at the Vagabond Inn. Alone on a mountain, this 7,000 square foot inn offers total seclusion. Grand fireplace and hot tub/jacuzzi suites are available.

4 Naples, NY • (585) 554-6271 • www.thevagabondinn.com

Meetings

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The Rose Inn

…on the wine trail overlooking spectacular Seneca Lake

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Rte. 14 South, Geneva Call for more information 315-781-0201 or visit us at www.belhurst.com

A CCOMMODATIONS /B&B

Waterloo/Seneca Falls

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2468 NYS Rte 414 • Waterloo, NY 13165

(315)539-5011

www.hiwaterloo.com

Bed & Breakfast Wellington Syracuse, NY

An elegant 1850s Italianate mansion, situated on 17 acres and located 10 miles north of Ithaca.

20 exquisite rooms including 12 Deluxe suites with Jacuzzis (7 with fireplaces). Full breakfast.

Route 34 North, Ithaca, NY 5 (607) 533-7905 www.roseinn.com

Where Hospitality Happens!

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(800) 724-5006 www.bbwellington.com

Inn at the Springs

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“The House with the Circular Staircase”

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Inn at the Springs is a charming Victorian-era bed and breakfast located at Clifton Springs, New York, in the heart of the Finger Lakes region.

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315-462-6070 • www.innatthesprings.com 14 Pleasant Street • Clifton Springs

Please call for reservations Geneva or to receive a free brochure.

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1-800-990-0907

9 41 Lakefront Dr., Geneva, NY 14456

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LaFayette Bed & Breakfast

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107 LaFayette Avenue, Geneva, NY

(315) 781-0068

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Toll-Free (866) 781-0068

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Featuring the finest meeting and banquet facilities for 6-600 people.

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Auburn / Skaneateles

Call for details on our New Year’s Eve Package.

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FINGER LAKES

Your Hosts: Shirley & Jack Camp lafay107@fltg.net • lafayettegenevany.com

Specializing in get-away retreats quilters • showers • family, class or friendship reunions.

2003 Quality Excellence Award

75 North Street • Auburn, NY 13021 (315)253-4531 • www.hiauburn.com

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8613 Denman Rd • Port Byron, NY 13140 (315) 776-8632 • www.lavenderpatchretreat.com

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Finger Lakes Real Estate morgansamuelsinn.com

Specializing in

Lakefront Homes & Residential Real Estate Services

Manlius 682-7197 100 E. Seneca Street

North Regional 622-1700 8302 Provo Drive

West Regional 488-2926 5854 Belle Isle Road

Chittenango 687-6109 601 Lakeport Road

DeWitt 446-4681 6875 E. Genesee Street

Oneida 363-5533

7913 Route 11

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340 Main Street

Cicero 699-3200 Cazenovia 655-8300

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57 Albany Street

336 North Main Street Canandaigua, New York 14424 585-394-1970 • www.mcmillanrealty.com

www.1stproperties.com

theArt

Lake Country Real Estate

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Wine Country Inn

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• Established in 1975 • Providing professional real estate services for residential home, lake front properties, vacant land, commercial and investment properties • Over 20 professional, trained real estate associates and broker associates • Canandaigua Lake Property Division • Commercial Division • Providing relocation services both locally and nationally

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A Premier

• Covering the Finger Lakes Region • Over 270 Professional Sales Associates working together for YOU!

of homebuilding

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Providing Real Estate Services for Over 28 Years

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326 W. Genesee Street Auburn, New York 13021

luxury, year-round lodgings for leisure or business travelers

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CAYUGA LAKE

Relax in a quiet suites complete with kitchenettes, living areas with manager size desks and private baths — some with whirlpool tubs.

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384 North Main St. Canandaigua, NY 14424 Ph: (585)398-2140 www.nothnagle.com

Tel: 315.258.9147 • Fax: 315.258.3194 E-mail: lakcountry@aol.com

315-585-9901 www.paradiseonthelake.us

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1526 Grand Central Ave Elmira, New York 14901 (607) 733-8753 (800) 440-4287

www.BNBFinder.com

5831 Dunning Ave Rd Auburn, NY 13021

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(315)252-1187 (800)356-8556 www.wichergardeninn.com

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BED AND BREAKFAST 4136 High Banks Road, Geneva

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A Wicher Garden Bed & Breakfast

Bed & Breakfast & Catering

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Lindenwald Haus

PARADISE ON THE LAKE

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Route 20, 1.2 miles west of Skaneateles village 315.685.2333 PO Box 912 Skaneateles New York 13152 · info@SkaneatelesSuites.com

Beautiful year-round 2BR 1.5 Bath ranch on east side in Hibiscus Harbor Level lakefrontage. 2-car attached garage, dock, Hoist and public utilities. Great swimming, boating, & fishing! $179,000.

Your home search begins with Nothnagle.com

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tranquil · sophisticated

Sweet 3BR ranch on 50’ level lakefront with year-round access. Lots of charm w/Living Room cathedral ceiling, gas fire place & sliders to lakeside deck.

Dock, too! $129,500.

585-393-9221 www.homesbydiamond.com

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CAYUGA LAKE

at Fox Ridge, Canandaigua

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108 Virginia St., Waterloo, NY 13165 1-866-272-1270 www.throughthegrapevine.us

Visit Wyndham Crest

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“Charming Brick Italianate in a Family Atmosphere”

Exceptional yearround lakefront home w/ 3BR, 2 Baths.

Level 206’ east side shoreline. Lakeside sunroom w/wall of windows for great views! 2 car gar., stone breakwall, dock. $475,000.

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Finger Lakes Wineries

Open: May-Dec Mon.-Sat 10-5pm, Sun. 11:30-5pm Jan-April Call for Hours

fine wines for the everyday celebration of life

You are invited to our visitors’ center tasting room and gift shop: Mondays-Saturdays: 10am until 5pm Sundays: Noon until 5pm Open all year.

1225 Anthony Road Penn Yan 315-536-2182 800-559-2182

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3586 Route 14, Himrod, NY 14842

(315)536-1210 • Fax(315)536-1239 meadery@hotmail.com • www.meadery.com

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www.anthonyroadwine.com

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Overlooking Seneca Lake’s west side 10 miles south of Geneva, just off of Route 14

Come & enjoy our award-winning Meads, Fruit Wines, and Grape Wines, with something for every palate - from dry to sweet.

Browse through our unique gift shop with a full line of honey products, and observe a live, working beehive in action.

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Enjoy the Holidays with Award-winning Hosmer Wines.

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Chardonnay • Riesling • Gewurztraminer Merlot • Cabernet Sauvignon

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OPEN YEAR ROUND

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607.243.7883

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On the Seneca Lake Wine Trail Open year ‘round for tastings

Lakewood Vineyards

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www.prejeanwinery.com

One of Seneca Lake’s newest and most modern wineries, Torrey Ridge is a destination you won’t want to miss. Taste a variety of premium wines while enjoying one of the lake’s most panoramic views.

Browse through our unique gift shop.

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2770 State Route 14 Penn Yan NY 14527

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Torrey Ridge Winery

www.torreyridgewinery.com torreyr@eznet.net May-Dec Mon.-Sat. 10-5pm, Sun. 11:30-5pm Jan-April Call for Hours

315-536-1210

IN THE

FINGER LAKES

4024 State Route 14 Watkins Glen, NY 14891 Phone: (607) 535-9252 www.lakewoodvineyards.com Winery Hours: Sun.: Noon to 5pm Mon. - Sat.: 10am to 5pm

www.nagyswines.com

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8 mi. N. of Watkins W Glen on Rt. 14

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623 Lerch Road, Geneva, NY (315)585-4432 7

Estate grown and bottled by:

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Located on the Cayuga Lake Scenic Byway 6999 State Route 89, Ovid (888-467-9463) www.hosmerwinery.com Mon thru Sat 10am - 5pm Sun Noon - 5pm Closed Thanksgiving & Christmas Day

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C A L E N D A R F E S T I VA L S

December

Enjoy!

Meritage ◆

&

Unique Products

E V E N T S

(cont’d from page 29)

Dec 4-Jan 11…The Wizard of Oz by Syracuse Stage & Syracuse University Drama Department There’s no place like home for the holidays with our own special interpretation of a musical classic 315-443-3275

Chardonnay

ROBERT GILLESPIE depicting great moments in Watkins Glen racing history. Priced from $45.

Matting and framing available (315) 536-7185 Visit our website at www.glenspeed.com

Dec 6…Annual Christmas Craft Show Wayne Central High School, Ontario. Approx. 100 vendors. Enjoy lunch while you shop for your Christmas gifts.

315-524-5886

WINES from

King Ferry Winery

gtáàx à{x TÜà|áàÜç4 658 Lake Rd. • King Ferry, NY (315)364-5100 • (800)439-5271

www.treleavenwines.com

Lap robe (60 x 48 inches, 1 stripe) $65 Single (60 x 90 inches, 3 stripes) $89 Double (72 x 90 inches, 3 stripes) $99 Queen (78 x 104 inches, 3 stripes) $119 8.25% tax & $7 per blanket shipping.

Dec 6-7…the Plowshares Winter Holiday Craftsfair and Peace Festival The Rochester Folk Art Guild Pottery and Woodworking join the Plowshares at the Southwest Community Center, Syracuse.

585-554-3539 www.rfag.org

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Dec 6…Winter Festival Join the Friends of Ganondagan for their Annual Winter Festival featuring native crafts, storytelling and dancing at the Rochester Museum and Science Center 585-742-1690 Dec 6…"The Real Christmas" sponsored by the Village of Waterloo. Activities depicting the birth of Jesus 315-568-2906

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Each blanket has a serial-number on the Cornell Sheep Program logo label and comes with a certificate of authenticity.

Cornell Orchards, Cornell Dairy Store, or the Department of Animal Science, 127 Morrison Hall, Cornell University. Ithaca.

Cornell Sheep Program Phone 607-255-7712

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www.sheep.cornell.edu cspblankets@cornell.edu

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100% Virgin Wool Blankets

Dec 6…Bears, Boots, & Stars Family Holiday Workshop Be creative and listen to Native American bear legends at the Rockwell Museum of Western Art Family Holiday Workshop. Open to all ages!

607-974-2333 www.RockwellMuseum.org

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Dec 6…Sparkle An old-fashioned celebration of the season featuring holiday music, live entertainment and food. All on Historic Market Street, Corning from 5-9:00 p.m www.CorningNY.com

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Signed and numbered fine art prints by

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Dec 5-Jan 18…Annual Holiday Exhibit

by West End Gallery Located on Historic Market Street. Opening Reception Fri. Dec 5. Open house Sat. Dec. 6. Music by Eikov Suzuki Studio 607-936-2011 westendgallery.net

COMPASS CANOE & KAYAK 888-642-9929 WWW.COMPASSCANOE.COM

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Dec 5…Children’s Christmas Party At the Ontario County Historical Society.

Reservations required.

585-394-4975

A Compass Streamer cayak is an 18lb. canoe paddled like a kayak. Anyone can lift, carry, and launch it to fish, bird, or just cruise the shoreline. Handbuilt of Kevlar and carbon fiber with oak rails, the Streamer will be the envy of your boating friends.

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Also available in fine restaurants and liquor stores.

Dec 5…Rachael Sage Wild Women of the World Music Series continues with pianist, singer-songwriter & visual artist Rachael Sage. 8pm at Smith Opera House, Geneva 315-781-5483 www.thesmith.org

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5055 Rt. 414, Hector, NY 14841 607.546.VINE www.atwatervineyards.com

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◆

Ice Wines

GREAT CAMP? FABULOUS CAYAK!

Juices still available, Winemaking Supplies, Grapes Seasonal

Dec 6-7…Holiday Open House at Corning Museum of Glass Many holiday activities. Walk-in Workshop open.

Visit The Studio for the annual sale of original glass works. Free admission, fee associated with some activities 607-974-4084 www.cmog.org

www.fallbright.com

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Pinot Noir

Dec 4-13...19th Annual Everson Holiday Festival of Trees Over one hundred imaginatively decorated Christmas trees on display w/musical entertainment, fashion shows and programs for children. Everson Museum of Art 315-474-6064

Secure Online Shopping Online Lessons for Winemaking Many Gift Ideas! Winemaking Supplies, Gift Certificates Tues-Fri 10-4, Saturday appointments

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Gewürztraminer

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Riesling

Fall Bright, The Winemakers Shoppe 10110 Hyatt Hill, Dundee 607-292-3995

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Unique Products & Places To Shop

Casual apparel for men, women and children We specialize in exceptional handknit sweaters from around the world: • Dale of Norway • Icelandic Design • Geiger of Austria • Susan Bristol • Marisa Christina • Christine Foley • David Brooks • Blue Willis

THE CHRISTMAS HOUSE The charm of an Old Fashioned Christmas awaits you…

361 Maple Avenue • Elmira, NY 14904 www.christmas-house.com • (607) 734-9547

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We feature: • Brighten Accessories • Nautical and golf wear • Finger Lakes shirts • Jewelry and tasteful gifts • Authentic Australian oilskin dusters • Fleece outerwear

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Open 7 days • Shipping Available • MasterCard/Visa accepted

79 S. Main • Downtown Canandaigua • 585-396-9580 • www.countryewe.com

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Custom Created Baskets with a Winning Touch!

585-924-6950 • blueribbongiftbaskets.com

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Made Fresh Everyday.

Shipping & Gift Certificates available!

Stop in and check us out! We’re easy to find!

7179 County House Road • Auburn, NY 13021 315-255-0469 www.familyroomminiatures.com miniature@baldcom.net 4

Call 2 Days Ahead for

Ye Olde Barn Craft Mall & Gift Shoppe

• Furniture • Scale Lumber • Accessories • Lighting • Dollhouse Kits • Finished Dollhouses • and most important, experience and friendly service

• Quilts • Limb wood furniture • Native American Pieces • Hand crafted wood items • Local artisans work featured • Christian novelties/inlayed wooden boxes • Personalized hand painted slates/bisques

formerly Ye Olde Wood Shoppe Village 1306 Waterloo-Geneva Rd. Waterloo 1 mile West of downtown on Rts 5 & 20

315-539-5144 7

M-W 9-5 Th-Sa 9-7 Su 12-5

Special Orders.

7599 Route 21, Naples

585-374-2139 www.monicaspies.com

8 Headquarters for

American Girl Doll Clothes And unique sewn items Sewing Joys 102 Main St. Phelps, NY (315)548-8736

Visit Downtown Geneva this Holiday Season!

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A unique shop located in the heart of the Finger Lakes specializing in dollhouse miniatures and hobby building supplies. We have a large selection of:

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Make your way to historic downtown Geneva this season for all your holiday needs. Great locally owned specialty shops, wonderful restaurants, and entertainment for all ages!

Get all of your holiday shopping done with one easy stop in downtown Geneva. There is plenty of free parking! Come and see why -

the Difference is Downtown!

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Monica’s Pies

Family Room Miniatures

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9 Hours: T-Th-F 10-1, 2-6 Sat 10-1

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Unique Products & Places To Shop An Adventure in Shopping for Fine Gifts THE NEST EGG 125 Main Street Penn Yan, NY 14527 (315) 536-3488

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Baby Gifts • Jewelry Vera Bradley Designs • Yankee Candles Open 7 days a week

Pony Rides: 11am-2pm, December 7 & 14 Santa: 11am-2pm, December 6 & 14 Food on weekends beginning December 6.

Enjoy a Slice…

4 New Fields of Trees

Of New York’s Finest!™

Free wagon rides, shaking and baling of trees, candy canes and coloring books.

Yankee Candle

November er 29 & 30

Open Nov. 28-Dec 23 9am- 6pm

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UPS Shipping available. Master Card and VISA accepted.

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Special Holiday Furniture & Gift Sales Refreshments and introducing the New Yankee Candle Ornament !

TREEFORMS

Country Furniture & Gift Store

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OPEN HOUSE WEEKEND

Featuring German Glass Ornaments and

1302 Dryden Road Ithaca

10 minutes North of Ithaca on Route 34 575 Auburn Rd • Lansing, NY 14882 www.mooretrees.com • (888) 597-TREE

607-272-2913 Largest Selection & Lowest Prices of Quality Amish Made Furniture in CNY

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Shop the largest selection of Finger Lakes & NY specialty foods and our delicious fruit products.

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U-Cut and Pre-Cuts Inside • Potted Trees Tree stands • Lights • Ornaments Wreaths • Garland • Evergreen Kissing Balls

Christmas

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SPECIALIZING IN MAILORDER! www.redjacketorchards.com 1-800-828-9410 957 Routes 5&20 • Geneva NY Open year-round, 7days/wk

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The First Rural Farm & Craft Market in New York State

OVER 250 VENDORS!

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Open Saturdays thru Dec 20 8AM - 430PM

Shop at www.naplescreeksoaps.com

To Reach the Windmill Call: 315-536-3032 Rt. 14A, between Penn Yan & Dundee

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www.thewindmill.com

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Take 20% off your Holiday order - Enter voucher 525240403 in the online shopping cart. Expires 1/31/04

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Handicap Accessible • ATM in office Free Admission • Free Parking “Often Imitated, Never Duplicated.”

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Induct Her Into “The One Percent Club”

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See us in Lown’s House of Shoppes

131 Main St. Penn Yan • 315-536-7901 Shop online at www.pennyanfireshop.com

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Gifts and supplies for Firefighters, EMS, Police

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•••• Fine Country Furnishings & Accents Unique Specialties and Gifts •••• 61 Fall Street Seneca Falls, NY 13148 (315) 568-5636

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S.A. Gilbert Jeweler

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A Country Store

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The Treasure Basket

Fewer than 1% of the women in the world own a diamond of one carat or larger. We’re taking applications for membership. She’ll be part of the club she’s always really belonged to. We belong to an international buying group and get the diamonds directly from a cutter in Antwerp and we can pass the savings on to you.

From $1999.00

510 Exchange St. • Geneva, NY • 315-789-7722

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Finger Lakes Businesses

C A L E N D A R F E S T I VA L S

December

We can design and structure your personal and business affairs to give you the greatest

315-462-9484 • 315-986-3020

Dec 7…Poetry Reading Series Bi-monthly poetry reading series, FREE, Sterling Nature Center, 6-8pm 315-947-6143

Country LCMS Lake Moving & Storage

Dec 7…Moscow Ballet's Great Russian Nutcracker A magnificent and powerful performance featuring 50 spectacular Russian Artists, hand painted sets and over 400 lavish costumes. Landmark Theatre 800-320-1733

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2915 Rt. 96S • Waterloo, NY 13165 Local, Interstate and International Movers

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1-800-479-3188

MC#435411

Dec 7…Candlelight Tour of Historic Homes Start at host church picking up pass and program, continuing unescorted to each home (5 total) and return to host church for refreshments. Corning area 607-359-2774

Get your White Hots!

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Dec 7…Holiday Open House Docent guided tours throughout the former sheriff's home and attached jail. Wayne County Historical Society, Lyons 315-946-4943

Packing Service • Packing Materials • Storage DOT#32239

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YOUR FINGER LAKES CHOICE FOR QUALITY CONSTRUCTION AT A FAIR PRICE

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(cont’d from page 33)

Dec 6, 13…”Stories of Russia with Grandfather Frost” World of Puppets by Open Hand Theater, Enjoy this fine performance with giant puppets telling the story! International Mask & Puppet Museum 315-476-0466

Raymond C Weidmann CPA CFP

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Dec 6-7…Holiday Craft Show Craft & food vendors with live entertainment, FREE, Cayuga Community College, Auburn 315-255-1743

BENEFITS IN YOUR GROWTH, INCOME, TAXES, FEES, HEALTH INSURANCE AND LOSS PROTECTION.

Famous for Quality Sausage and Meat Products Since 1880 We now ship nationwide! www.zweigles.com

One look and you’ll agree... this is no ordinary hospital Since 1850, Clifton Springs Hospital’s goal has been to provide you and your family with the best medical care available.

With an experienced and respected medical staff, skilled and dedicated employees, and state-of-the-art equipment, we’ve been accomplishing that goal for the past 153 years.

For more about what we have to offer, please visit us at www.CliftonSpringsHospital.org

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• Bathrooms, kitchens, basements • Sunrooms, windows, decks

Locally owned & operated for over 20 years

(315) 531-9074 Fax 585-526-6751

djames1912@aol.com

Dec 13…Santa Lucia Day at Swedish Hill Winery Celebrate a traditional Swedish holiday with us! 4565 Rte. 414, Romulus. 12-5pm 315-549-8326 Dec 13…Granger Homestead Christmas Ball Call the Granger Homestead Society at Canandaigua 585-394-6958 Dec 13-15…Sounds of the Season Live holiday stage performances on Centerway Square in Downtown Corning www.corningny.com/intownpromotions.htm Dec 14…Holiday Traditions Come enjoy quilt exhibits, refreshments and entertainment! Free. Auburn.

877-343-0002 www.tourauburnny.com Dec 14…Holiday Fireworks Come and enjoy this beautiful display of fireworks.

Wallington Fire Dept, Sodus. 6pm 315-483-8937 Dec 18…2300 Degrees: Corning Museum of Glass A freeform happening, featuring a stimulating mixture of glass, music, and wine. Free admission www.CMOG.org Dec 21…Pancake Breakfast All you can eat breakfast on every third Sunday of the month. Handicapped accessible. Macedon Fire Hall 315-986-4700

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Jan 17-25...Bargain Bash Participating member wineries 'clean house' for the New Year by offering extraordinary bargains for 9 days. No tickets are needed.

877-536-2717 www.senecalakewine.com

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Finger Lakes Museums Phelps Community Historical Society

Chemung Valley History Museum

66 Main Street • 315-548-4940

www.chemungvalleymuseum.org

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Welcome back for lunch or dinner and

• Accessible by boat and car

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Enjoy items from our new menu Enjoy the excellent service Enjoy the great food Enjoy the view from our canal side tables Enjoy our great salad bars at Lunch and Dinner • Enjoy the ambience of a fireside table as the temperature dips outside

• Dine inside w/ A/C or on the deck, watching the boats come & go “Fine dining in a casual atmosphere.”

55 Cayuga St., Seneca Falls, NY 13148 Ph: (315)568-8412 4 www.sfhistoricalsociety.org

C “THE FOSTER COTTAGE”

Feb 7…Happiness House "Hike for Happiness" Indoor walk-a-thon, at the Bristol Field House at Hobart and William Smith Colleges in Geneva.

Individuals, families and teams are welcome 585-394-9510 or 315-789-6828

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Trade-A-Yacht/Hibiscus Harbor

Feb 7-8…Fire & Ice Weekend Celebrate the harvest of Casa Larga’s Fiori Delle Stelle Ice Wine! Free to the public, reservations required for special events. Chocolates, cheeses, desserts, wines, music, tours.

585-223-4210

13th Annual Exhibit

Feb 28-29…Beat the Blues Listen to the Blues and enjoy red wines from three award-winning wineries. Keuka Wine Trail 800-440-4898

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Sea Ray & Bennington Pontoon Dealer

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31-34 Hibiscus Harbor Ln Union Springs, NY 13160 (315)889-5086 www.tradeayacht.com

Miniature/Dollhouse Show November 21 - January 25

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Feb 7-8...Chocolate & Wine Sample chocolates creatively matched with each winery's wines. Tickets needed.

877-536-2717 www.senecalakewine.com

FL Marinas

Home of the Clifton Springs Historical Society 9 E. Main St., Clifton Springs, NY 14432 315-462-7394 • www.fostercottage.org

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Dinner nightly from 5 pm Sundays from 1 pm Waterloo 315-539-9300

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Founded in 1896, our mission is to acquire, preserve and present documents and objects that relate to the history of Seneca Falls and Seneca County. We maintain a 23-room Queen Anne Style Victorian Mansion and present the first floor and a portion of the second, as they might have been circa 1890, as a home of a wealthy Victorian family. We have rooms dedicated to local industries, changing and seasonal exhibits and a gift shop.

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Before summer - Before vacation - Before the Lake!

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Hibiscus Harbor Marina Union Springs, NY

Reservations: (315) 889-5086

415 East Water Street, Elmira, NY 14901

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Experience the stories behind Mark Twain’s Elmira, local immigrant life, Chemung County’s role in the Civil War and so much more! Explore your history in the Booth Research Library and shop for special books in the Museum Store.

Open seven days a week. 607-734-4167

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Open house Dec. 7th 1pm-4pm Thursdays and Fridays 10-4 1

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Your Guide to the Finger Lakes

Icons on the map show approximate locations of advertisers in this Winter Special Insert.

Please call the advertiser for specific directions.

LEGEND Accommodations ..............pgs. 30-31 Dining ................................pg. 37 Marinas ..............................pg. 37 Museums ............................pg. 37 Unique Products & Shops....pgs. 34-36 Wineries ........................pgs. 32-33

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Safe Haven The forgotten story of the Holocaust refugees at Fort Ontario

By Joy Underhill Photographs Courtesy of Bob Davidson and Safe Haven Museum

hroughout most of World War II, the United States closed its eyes to the genocide that was taking place in Europe. Telegrams sent in the early 1940s were secreted away and ignored by the highest officials. But late in the war, the government could no longer discount the horrifying stories that were emerging from concentration camp survivors.

Limited U.S. immigration quotas were strictly enforced during the war, leaving millions of refugees desperately on

the run to escape the Nazi regime. Just nine months before the end of the war, President Roosevelt finally allowed 1,000 “guests� to enter America, effectively bypassing immigration law. With no promises of visas or citizenship, it was understood that these refugees would return to their homelands after the war.

Fort Ontario in Oswego, a former Army camp, was chosen to house the refugees. For Roosevelt, this temporary haven was a way to silence some of the outrage over

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U.S. immigration policy. For the 982 men, women, and children who arrived in August 1944, Fort Ontario meant the difference between life and death.

Fleeing from Italy Once clearance was given, things moved quickly.

Ruth Gruber was a 33-year-old assistant to Harold Ickes, Secretary of the Interior, when she was given the highly unusual and dangerous task of escorting the refugees to America. Her tireless commitment to the plight of Jewish refugees, a solid command of Yiddish and German, and her distinguished work in Alaska made her an ideal candidate.

had worn in concentration camps. The ship also housed 1,000 wounded American soldiers and a handful of nurses and doctors to tend them all. On the day the ship set sail, the Normandy invasion had just begun, and the Mediterranean was heavily patrolled by Nazi planes and U-boats.

The Henry Gibbins sailed as part of a large convoy, picking up additional escorts as it drew toward Gibralter.

Flanking them were boats that carried Nazi POWs, situated intentionally on the edges of the convoy to help protect the convoy from attack. The irony was not lost on the Jewish refugees. American policy saw fit to bring in 100,000 German POWs to fill the farm labor shortage caused by

It took days in Air Force planes to reach Naples, where the 982 were already chosen. The government officials making the selection chose families and survivors with skills that could help run a camp in America. The first priority was refugees who had been in concentration camps and escaped. The 982 were put aboard the Army transport ship “Henry Gibbins” with 1,000 wounded soldiers returning to hospitals in the States.

Ruth Gruber

Word went out to Jewish refugees hiding in Italy that the United States was willing to take 1,000 refugees. Three thousand applied, each of whom was screened, an onerous task that sorted those who would be rescued from those who would face continued suffering and possible death at the hands of the Nazis. One woman even gave birth in an Army truck en route to the ship in the Naples harbor. The baby was aptly named “International Harry,” and he became the youngest refugee ferried to safety.

When Gruber boarded the Henry Gibbins in war-torn Naples, she was met with the desperate faces of 982 men, women and children from 18 European countries. Many were barefoot or clad in makeshift newspaper shoes; a few were dressed in the tattered remains of the striped uniforms they

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American servicemen, while allowing only 1,000 Holocaust refugees within its borders.

Orders were strict. The convoy sailed in complete darkness at night. Not even a cigarette was allowed above deck so as not to draw attention from German bombers. The twoweek journey was not without its risks; German U-boats were spotted off Gibralter, and everyone waited in utter silence until the danger had passed.

The refugees who were able were assigned cleaning duties but spent most of their time on deck or in bunks, mourning those they had left behind, trying to regain strength, and fighting off seasickness. Gruber spent days listening to heartbreaking stories of loss and heroism and wrote them down until her eyes were too clouded by tears. These were the first accounts to be told by actual survivors; previous stories had always come secondhand.

The Henry Gibbins was far from luxurious but it represented the last hope for Jews desperate to flee Europe. Bunks were stacked three deep in the cramped, hot quarters.

Buckets were strung on deck as makeshift saltwater showers to cool off.

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Gruber decided that the best way to communicate with the refugees – and to get them talking to one another – was to teach them English. She set up a blackboard on deck and began.

“How are you?” she would ask. “I am fine,” would come the answer.

Again and again, the refugees asked what it would be like in America, and what would happen to them after the war. Given their undetermined political status, Gruber could not give a firm reply. When the ship sailed into New York harbor two weeks later, tears spilled forth as the refugees gazed at the Statue of Liberty and listened to Gruber translate the words inscribed at the foot of the statue. A rabbi recited a solemn prayer. No longer praying for deliverance, these refugees were living it.

Arriving at Fort Ontario After a debriefing in New York, the refugees boarded an overnight train

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bound for Oswego. Several were terrified, reminded of the trains that had taken them to dreaded destinations such as Auschwitz and Bergen-Belsen.

Many were dismayed to see that the fort was fenced in, topped with barbed wire. But almost all were grateful for a hearty breakfast. Things as simple as mattresses, towels, and bed sheets brought tears of gratitude.

On August 5, 1944, the residents of Oswego were there to greet them as well. In no time, items were being passed through the fence: candy, cigarettes, Barbie dolls, and stuffed animals. Even a bicycle was hoisted over the top.

As the names of the refugees were published in newspapers, phone calls began to trickle in from relatives who had escaped to America before the war.

Spouses who hadn’t spoken in years were stunned to find one another at the end of the line. When a three-week quarantine was lifted, the camp hosted an open house and was overrun with lost relatives, visitors, and Oswego townspeople.

Children started school in town.

Some of the youngsters were understandably apprehensive. Many hadn’t been to school in more than six years.

Even college-age children were allowed to attend the local college.

…As a child, I knew how to survive under imprisonment and confinement, having been put in jail and in concentration camps... But I didn’t really remember what freedom was because I had left my hometown when I was 6. I had this tremendous beautiful fantasy of coming to America, the land of the free. And I was put in this camp, behind barbed wires...

Walter Greenberg, Safe Haven refugee

To Learn More Ruth Gruber tells the story of the Safe Haven refugees in Haven: The Dramatic Story of 1000 World War II Refugees and How They Came to America (Times Books/ Random House, 2000).

Safe Haven Inc. is a volunteer group dedicated to preserving the story of America’s only Holocaust refugee shelter. Visit its website at www.syracuse.com/ features/safehaven.

The Safe Haven Museum is located in Oswego and is open from Labor Day through Memorial Day. Take a virtual museum tour at www.oswego haven.org.

For extensive links to archival materials, newspaper and journal articles, check out www.ushmm.org/ research/library/bibliography/ontario/right.htm.

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I’m very grateful. I know my parents were very grateful to the people in town, because they were very good to us. It’s too bad that this was the only camp of its kind in the United States of America. When you think of how many millions were killed, and how many could have been saved!

Eva Kaufman Dye, Safe Haven refugee

Living at Safe Haven As frightening as coming to a new land could be, the Jewish refugees soon found friends in Oswego. Rena Romano Block recalls losing a treasured doll she had carried throughout the war. “I was an only child and this doll was the only remnant I had from a normal life in Zagreb,” she recounts. “I come to Oswego, and they’re bringing us books.

They’re bringing us dolls and ice skates, sleds, snow suits!”

Some of the refugees needed clothing and shoes when they arrived.

Dozens of religious and secular groups extended helping hands, donating the basics needed to start over. Although the refugees were frustrated to be housed behind a fence, they had food and rooms of their own.

Accommodations were simple but adequate, and the refugees were safe for the first time in years. Fort Ontario earned the nickname “Safe Haven” and became a place of healing and recovery.

The 24 babies born at the camp over the course of 18 months all received good medical care. Manya Breuer recalls giving birth to her first child. “I talked of raising my children and being the happy proud parents of American children...We had the vision

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of making our life worthwhile and becoming good citizens. And that was in front of us, all these years.”

A few men were allowed to leave camp to help harvest produce, but most of the refugees found themselves with time on their hands. With the help of charities and religious groups, the camp began to grow into its own community.

A hairdressing school opened, regular religious services were begun, a newsletter was printed, performers began hosting musical performances and variety shows, and a Boy Scout troop formed (the troop leader was known to sneak boys out for campouts in the nearby woods). The first wedding took place at City Hall just two weeks after arrival.

Other than being fenced in, the only resounding complaint was the quality of the bread.

Accustomed to the hearty black bread of Europe, the refugees couldn’t tolerate the pasty white bread of America. With some experimentation, the mess hall staff found a way to create the favored darker bread.

For years, refugees seeking to enter the United States were told “Sorry, the quotas are filled.”

Now at last, the U.S. was opening its gates to nearly 1,000. Politically, the refugees had no status.

They came in outside the rigid immigration quotas.

They were not prisoners of war. They were not legal immigrants with legal visas. They were not boat people. They were guests of President Roosevelt, who assured Congress they would be sent back to their homes in Europe when the war ended.

Ruth Gruber

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Living in Limbo Just a month after arriving at Fort Ontario, Eleanor Roosevelt toured the camp and spoke with refugee families.

Again and again she was asked, “What will happen when the war ends?” She couldn’t give a firm answer. A camp anthem was adopted: “Don’t Fence Me In.” Gruber returned to Washington to fight long and hard for the right of the refugees to immigrate. She and other supporters pleaded the case of the refugees to Congress over the course of 18 long months.

President Roosevelt died, the war ended, and still the refugees waited for the slow wheels of government to move.

Europe was suddenly filled with “disIvo Lederer, Safe Haven refugee placed persons”: former POWs and concentration camp survivors whose homelands were now destroyed. Many still The Legacy lived in the camps where they were imprisoned, half-starved The Fort Ontario refugees dispersed across the nation, and having nowhere else to go. Returning the Fort Ontario many settling in New York City where other family memrefugees to Europe looked like nothing short of cruelty. bers lived. They contributed to American culture in signifiLittle by little, some of the restrictions were loosened. cant ways, becoming physicians, engineers, lawyers, teachThe first ship sailed for Europe in August 1945, and 69 of ers, artists, and psychologists among other professions. One the refugees—mostly Yugoslavs—were allowed to return.

California resident helped develop the CAT scan and the Some of them wanted to find what family remained; others MRI technology; another worked to create the Polaris and simply wanted to die in the villages where they had lived.

Minuteman missiles.

But the vast majority remained at Fort Ontario to seek Thirty-five years after their months at Fort Ontario, 50 immigrant status. survivors and their families returned to Oswego to dedicate When President Truman finally granted visas to the a monument to the camp. The people of Oswego who refugees in January 1946, more than 70 communities nationremembered them were present as well: schoolteachers, Boy wide offered to take them in with jobs, homes, and good Scout leaders, and townspeople. Some of the original buildschools for their children. Ironically, the refugees had to officially leave the United States in order to enter it legally. They ings were torn down; others had been revamped for a museum commemorating the role Fort Ontario has played in were driven by bus to Canada, where they crossed over the historic wars.

Rainbow Bridge at Niagara Falls as fully legal immigrants.

In 2002, the Safe Haven museum was dedicated at Fort Ontario Park. Housed in a 100-yearold building listed in the National Register of Historic Places, the museum is dedicated to preserving the story of the 982 refugees who found shelter there and the hope they found for a new life in America.

This is a story about America, the land of opportunity, which opened its doors. The doors had to be pushed and shoved a little, but the doors did open, and in 1945 we were allowed to stay.

It’s a society and environment which allowed people to fulfill their potentials. And that’s what most of us did, of the younger generation. We became lawyers, doctors, … musicians, professors, whatever. I’m sure that everybody felt we had to pay back something. And I believe that we have, in fact, repaid.

It is a chapter in the history of the United States.

It’s a chapter in the history of Judaism.

It should be told, it should be remembered.

And it should never be forgotten.

Adam Munz, Safe Haven refugee

Joy Underhill is a freelance writer who lives in Farmington. She can be reached at joyhill@ rochester.rr.com.

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Grand Prize

Honeoye Falls, Waterfalls Bill Penn Bloomfield, New York

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THE SECOND ANNUAL

LIFE IN THE FINGER LAKES PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST

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ime flies when we’re publishing a fun magazine, and unbelievably, it’s time to present the winners of the second annual photo contest.

Again, we received many quality images to choose from, and the judging process was no easy task. We are constantly amazed at the various Finger Lakes scenes as viewed through a photographer’s eye.

Even familiar landmarks seem different when various photographers have a chance to capture them on film.

Although many photographers entered numerous fine photographs, we only considered their highest rated work for prize consideration. Without further delay, we’d like to present the winners.

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First Place Upper Treman Cascades (upstream from Lucifer Falls) Joe Braun Ann Arbor, Michigan

Second Place West Side of Keuka Lake in the Morning Nicole Young Rochester, New York

Third Place Barn Betsy Lewis Palmyra, New York WINTER 2003 ~

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Second Place Blue Heron in the Rain Stan Ferrell Ithaca, New York

Third Place “Diamond School” - Vine Series #5 Beth Lyons Honeoye, New York

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H O N O R A B L E

M E N T I O N

Trilliums – Locke, Cayuga County Michael Kane Binghamton, New York

Canandaigua Outlet, Shortsville David Folts Walworth, New York

Six-Mile Creek Michael Grace-Martin Ithaca, New York

Ladies of the Lake, Keuka Lake State Park Rich MacAlpine Penn Yan, New York

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T H E

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Winter Wines for Your Holiday Haute Cuisine

By Peter and Kelli Bronski

Light in Winter ITHACA, NY

A Fusion of Music, Art & Science January 23,24,25 2004 ◆ EARTHBEAT Paul Winter Consort, Roger Payne ◆ WINTER IN AFRICA Mamadou Diabate, Katy Payne, Samite of Uganda

Roasted Harvest Vegetable Soup served with Apple Almond Rustic Pie with Late Harvest Wine Sauce

Wine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit.

Robert Mondavi in his autobiography, Harvests of Joy

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inter, too, is passion; family and friends; warmth of heart; generosity of spirit.

The cold outside prompts us to gather inside among family and friends – especially so during the holiday season – and collectively reflect on the year gone by and the new year to come.

It is also a time to enjoy the fruits of our labor when harvest vegetables and hearty meats form the center of a season of feasts, large and small. For what better way to warm the body and invigorate the soul than with the simple pleasures of a good meal? Yet, no good meal will ever become a great meal without a fine wine to marry the flavors and enliven the senses.

Ernest Hemingway reflected, “We thought of wine as something as healthy and normal as food, and also a

great river of happiness and well-being and delight…it was as natural as eating, and to me as necessary.” Better still, is not just a wine paired with food, but a unity of the two where the wine literally becomes a part of the food; used as an ingredient to brighten and enrich the meal and provide the perfect companion to drink with the completed dish.

Pairing food and wines, and cooking with wines, can seem daunting.

Matching flavors and enhancing the overall character of a meal with wine may quickly become a science, and some particularly insightful, talented cooks elevate the practice to an art form. But the process need not be intimidating. To start, there are, of course, the time-tested classic pairings, like salmon with Pinot Noir.

But the real joy of cooking with wine is to move beyond those comfortable boundaries and into a world of culinary exploration. The most important ingredients are imagination, creativity, some knowledge of your food and wine, and of course, the willingness to test your ideas, via good old

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OF SPONTANEOUS ORDER Steve Strogatz, Frank Campos, John White

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LightinWinter.com 800-284-8422 Circle Reader Service Number 125

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trial and error, in the kitchen. There are no true rules that must be followed here, but the following guidelines for common Finger Lakes grape varieties are a good place to start.

White Wines: • Riesling – Seafood, Chicken, Pork, Asian • Gewürztraminer – Chicken, Pork, Asian • Chardonnay – Cheese, Seafood, Grilled Fish, Chicken, Pork • Sauvignon Blanc – Seafood, Fish, Light Pasta, Chicken Red Wines: • Cabernet Sauvignon – Pasta, Beef • Merlot – Pasta, Beef • Pinot Noir – Beef, Pork, Pasta, Salmon In the spirit of the winter holiday

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season, we’ve gone into the kitchen ourselves in pursuit of recipes – appetizer, entrée, and dessert – that warm us from the cold and remind us of family gathered ’round the table. Try them in your own kitchen, and use them as a stepping stone to embark on a journey of joyful cooking with wine and food!

“Wine makes a symphony of a good meal,” notes Fernande Garvin, in his book The Art of French Cooking.

But don’t be discouraged if your first attempts fail to yield a masterpiece.

Remember that an orchestra spends many hours practicing, blending their diverse sounds, before the symphony becomes a grand performance. So it may go in your kitchen – do not be afraid to try and fail, because eventually, the flavors will blend, your meal will be a symphony, and with the help of your favorite Finger Lakes wines, you will have created your very own masterpiece!

Circle Reader Service Number 114

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Roasted Harvest Vegetable Soup (Serves: 6 appetizers, 4 entrées) 1 Parsnip 1 Onion 1 Leek 1 Turnip 1 Acorn Squash 2 Carrots 2 Potatoes 2 Tbsp. Olive Oil 3 Sprigs Rosemary 1/2 C. Dry White Wine (Pinot Gris) 4 1/2 C. Vegetable Stock 3/4 C. Light Cream 2 Tbsp. Fresh Parsley Salt and Pepper to taste 1. Peel and large dice first seven ingredients. Spread in a roasting pan, season with salt and pepper. Roast for 60 minutes in a 400-degree oven.

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2. Remove vegetables from oven and add to a large soup pot. Add vegetable stock. Immediately deglaze the pan with white wine and also add to stock.

3. Cook vegetables and stock together for five minutes, puree soup (hand or traditional blender).

4. Stir in cream and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Serve with crusty French bread Wine suggestion – Pinot Gris

Beef Tenderloin with Cabernet Sauce and Caramelized Onion Mashed Potatoes (Serves 4) 4 - 4 Oz. Beef tenderloin steaks 1/2 Tsp. Garlic Salt Salt and Pepper to taste

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Cooking Spray 1 Tbsp. Butter 1 Tbsp. Flour 1/2 C. Cabernet Sauvignon 1/2 C. Beef Stock 1 Shallot, minced Salt and Pepper to taste 1 Recipe Potatoes 1. Sear beef tenderloin in a deep frying pan. Cook 3-5 minutes on each side, depending upon degree of doneness desired. Remove beef from pan and set aside.

2. In the same pan, melt butter and stir in flour and shallots. Cook until shallots are soft and lightly browned.

3. Add the wine and the stock to the shallot mixture and cook until sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Add salt and pepper to taste.

4. Serve beef with sauce and potatoes (see recipe in next column)

Potatoes 1 Tbsp. Butter 1 Clove Garlic, minced 1 Small Sweet Onion, small dice 1 lb. Potatoes 1/4 C. Evaporated Milk 2 Tbsp. Butter Salt and Pepper to taste 1. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the garlic and onions, season with salt and pepper. Cook the onions until deep brown and caramelized, approximately 10 minutes.

2. Peel and boil potatoes in a 1 1/2 quart saucepan until very tender.

3. Mash the potatoes (potato masher or ricer works best) and mix in caramelized onions, milk, butter, salt and pepper.

Wine Suggestion – Cabernet Sauvignon (Continued on next page)

SMART RADIO The Finger Lakes Choice for Public Radio

GENEVA 89.7 FM & 90.3 FM • ITHACA 88.1 FM www.weos.org NPR’s Morning Edition • Fresh Air • Talk of the Nation All Things Considered • World Café with David Dye Democracy Now! with Amy Goodman • BBC World Service

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Meal Program Transportation Cable TV Nursing Service Activities Elevators Individual Heat Control Large Gracious Lobbies

• • • • • • • •

Front Door Intercom Laundry Room Laundry Service Arts & Crafts Emergency Call System Housekeeping Room Service Emergency Maintenance

• • • • • • • •

Fire Systems Library Trips Entertainment Large Porches Walk Areas Picnic Areas Full Kitchen and Bath

Nestled in the quaint little village of Clifton Springs, NY. Clifton Springs Hospital & Clinic is connected to our building.

Downtown shopping is only steps away.

Call today for a tour and receive a gift certificate for downtown shopping.

315-462-3080 Circle Reader Service Number 138

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1. In a medium bowl mix apples, cherries, sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Set aside.

2. Roll out pie crust (recipe below) to about 12 inches in diameter, 1/4-inch thick. Place on a parchment paper-lined jelly roll pan.

3. Roll out almond paste to a circle, 8 inches in diameter, place in the center of the pie crust.

4. Arrange apple mixture in crust leaving 2 inches of crust around the outside.

Fold up the edges of the crust to form a rustic pie.

5. Bake in a 400 degree oven for 30 minutes, until the crust is brown.

6. Meanwhile, cook 1 cup late harvest Riesling in a small saucepan, reducing volume by half, about 5 minutes, let cool.

7. Remove apple galette from oven, drizzle wine reduction over the top of the pie. Serve warm or cool, let stand at least 15 minutes before serving.

Pie Crust 11/2 C. All Purpose Flour C. Whole Wheat Flour 1/2 Tsp. Salt 6 Tbsp. Cold Butter, cubed 5 Tbsp. Vegetable Shortening 6-7 Tbsp. Cold Water 1/2

1. Mix flours and salt in a bowl.

2. Cut butter and shortening into flour until mixture resembles crumbs the size of peas.

3. Gently mix in cold water until dough forms. DO NOT OVERMIX. 4. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour.

Wine Suggestion – Late Harvest Riesling Peter and Kelli Bronski (peterbronski@ hotmail.com) enjoy Finger Lakes wines often, whether in a glass or in a meal.

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B O O K

L O O K

Finger Lakes Reads

By Laurel C. Wemett The Average Human

By Ellen Toby-Potter, 2003, Hardback, 260 pages, $24.00.

Published by Mac Adam/Cage Publishing, Denver (304) 753-7565

I

n Loomis, the fictional rural upstate setting of The Average Human, the inhabitants include the Mayborns, a family with the distinction of bearing generations of troubled and wayward offspring. The family is suspected of having engaged in incest and infanticide. As if a sign of their misdeeds, the daughters in the family have black, twisted finger nails, making their identity difficult to hide.

H

appily, it’s time again to

spotlight a few of the literary efforts of Finger

Lakes resident authors. These titles are worthy of seeking out for holiday gift giving or for your own library.

They represent a range of creative spirit flourishing in the Finger Lakes area and will delight those who have lived or vacationed in the region.

Special thanks to the staff at the Pioneer Library System and the Monroe County Library System who assisted in identifying some of the

200 Waterfalls in Central & Western New York, A Finders’ Guide

By Rich and Sue Freeman, 2002, Paperback, 232 pages, $18.95.

Published by Footprint Press, Fishers (585) 421-9383 email: info@footprintpress.com

H

ere is the perfect companion book to accompany the weekend hiker at any level of interest or skill. Rich and Sue Freeman’s 200 Waterfalls in Central & Western New York covers over 100 waterfalls in 26 counties. Like their other books featuring outdoor pursuits, this title is well-organized.

Each waterfall location pairs a full-page map with a summary page of

newer books by local authors. The following titles should be readily available at Barnes & Noble, Borders, and many small booksellers, or online at Amazon.com.

Addresses and phone numbers of local historical societies are included when they apply.

The author’s sometimes bizarre story of the Mayborn family centers around its connection with a former cult-like commune, Mercy Hill that once existed outside Loomis. The cult’s founder is accidentally killed in a fire

set by a young June Mayborn, whose most pronounced characteristic is her heightened sense of smell. When former commune members return for the funeral, the scene is set for more disturbing encounters with the flawed Mayborns.

Writer Toby-Potter, who lives in Spencer (Tioga County), effectively connects the Mayborns’ lives with those of characters such as the church lady, Linnet, who aims to bring June into the faith, only to have her become a religious zealot. This debut novel is edgy, engaging, and thought-provoking.

information. The authors provide details on location, name of waterway, directions from a major town or road, parking, if available, the best viewing location, waterfall height, best season to visit, mode of transportation WINTER 2003 ~

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Purveyors of Comfort & Joy A unique gift shop in the atmosphere of a 1920’s drug store where old fashioned customer service abounds.

Featuring collectibles by Crystal World, Nao by Lladro, Anheuser-Busch Steins, Department 56 Snowbabies and Snowbunnies, and Rinconada.

Traditional gifts include Seagull Pewter, Bulova Clocks, M-Pressions framed calligraphy, English mats & coasters, cotton throws, oil lamps as well as a complete selection of Hallmark cards and products.

Experience our Unique Selection of Holiday Decorations

60 Seneca St. Downtown Geneva, NY (315) 789-6919 Open Mon.-Sat. 9:00-5:30 • Fri. ‘til 6:00 • Sun. noon-4:00 Circle Reader Service Number 118

required to view the falls, estimated hiking time, trail length and difficulty, trail surface, and markings used to designate trails. Additional information such as admission fees, whether dogs are permitted, and contact information is provided.

A short introduction traces the glacial formation of New York State’s waterfalls and offers some common sense cautions about the varied terrain which hikers will encounter, from steep cliffs to fast-moving water and wet, slippery rocks. A helpful index organizes locations from “roadside waterfalls” to “waterfalls for ice climbers.” The authors further rank waterfalls by difficulty: one boot being very easy to four boots, strenuous.

An Everyday Savior

By Kathryn Larrabee, 2002, Fiction, Hardback, 348 pages, $24.95.

Published by Four Walls Eight Windows, New York (212) 206-8965

A

Circle Reader Service Number 113

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n Everyday Savior weaves a tale of a good-natured average guy, Harley Cookson, and his increasingly complicated life in a small town which bears a resemblance to Penn Yan, (Continued on page 58)

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INDEX OF ADVER TISERS

Page 57

Celebrate

FREE information by mail. Life in the Finger Lakes offers you the opportunity to request free brochures and information from our advertisers. Simply circle the numbers on the adjacent postage-paid card and mail.

The advertisers will send information directly to you.

Pg 15

American Express ................................Info#101

Pg 8

AquaSource Water Center ....................Info#102

Pg 10

Beaver Mountain

SNOW In

Oswego County!

Log & Cedar Homes ............................Info#103 Pg 12

Bright Ideas Design Center ..................Info#104

Pg 10

Canandaigua Inn On The Lake ..............Info#148

Pg 63

Casa Larga............................................Info#107

Pg 62

Cayuga County Tourism........................Info#105

Pg 61

Cayuga Wine Trail ................................Info#106

Pg 9

Church Creative Flooring ......................Info#108

Pg 54

Cicero Hoist & Dock ............................Info#109

Pg 61

Cobtree ................................................Info#110

Pg 60

Community Bank ..................................Info#111

Pg 7

Controlled Energy Corp ........................Info#112

Pg 56

Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars ..........Info#113

Pg 52

Eastview Mall........................................Info#114

Pg 13

Finger Lakes Inn/Activity Center ..........Info#115

Pg 17

Finger Lakes Visitors Connection ........Info#116

Pg 14

The Francis Hall House B & B ..............Info#147

Pg 5

Genesee Region Home Care ................Info#117

Pg 56

Guards Cards........................................Info#118

Pg 58

Heat-Line Corp......................................Info#119

Pg 4

Henry B’s Authentic Italian Restaurant

Pg 58

Heron Hill..............................................Info#121

Pg 7

Ithaca Downtown Partnership ..............Info#122

Pg 11

Keuka Moon Gallery..............................Info#123

Pg 60

Lake City Hobby....................................Info#124

Pg 51

Light in Winter......................................Info#125

Pg 57

Loomis Barn, The ................................Info#126

Cvr 3

Lyons National Bank ............................Info#127

Cvr 4

Marvin Windows ..................................Info#128

Pg 9

Museum of the Earth ............................Info#129

Pg 63

Naumann Chiropractic ..........................Info#130

Pg 6

Northern Design & Building Assoc ......Info#131

Pg 57

Oswego County Promotion & Tourism ..........................Info#132

Pg 63

Panorama Outfitters..............................Info#133

Pg 62

Peacock Oriental Antique Museum ......Info#134

Pg 4

Potter, Inc ............................................Info#135

Pg 12

Roses & Oak Ranch..............................Info#136

Pg 16

Seneca Lake Winery Association ..........Info#137

Pg 54

Spa Apartments ....................................Info#138

Pg 62

Standing Stone Vineyards ....................Info#139

Pg 59

Syracuse China Factory Outlet..............Info#140

Pg 8

Timber Frames, Inc ..............................Info#141

Pg 5

Timberpeg East, Inc..............................Info#142

Pg 3

Waterloo Premium Outlets ..................Info#143

Pg 53

WEOS ..................................................Info#144

Pg 17

West End Gallery ..................................Info#145

Pg 6

Wilcox Press ........................................Info#146

If the readers’ service postcard is missing in your issue, please call the advertiser directly.

If you would like to receive advertising rates, please call Jason Hagerman at 800-344-0559.

The most consistent snowfall East of the Rockies happens in beautiful Oswego County nearby in Upstate New York. Whatever your outdoor pursuit in the snow, from cross-country skiing to landing a big salmon, you’ll really celebrate winter in Oswego County!

Call Toll-Free

SALMON/TROUT FISHING ICE FISHING CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING TOURATHONS SNOWSHOEING SNOWMOBILING DOG SLED RACING SNOWTUBING HOCKEY TOURNEYS WINTER FESTIVALS

1-800-248-4FUN

www.oswegocounty.com Circle Reader Service Number 132

ake it a day in the country. From fine furniture and gifts, fresh flowers and dried floral arrangements, to casually elegant luncheon dining, our shops offer a unique shopping experience. Take a walk...feed the ducks or relax and enjoy the country.

The Loomis Barn..... A complete selection of high quality home furnishings featuring country, traditional and American Traditional.

Corn House Cafe...... Enjoy a lunch of seasonal homemade soups, specialty sandwiches and homebaked desserts.

Colonial Bouquets... Featuring dried flowers and herbal arrangements, wreaths, garlands, fresh flowers and plants The Back Room........A shop within a store filled with unique accessories, gifts, and accent items.

Fully handicap accessible Cafe Hours Tues. - Sat. 11:30 - 2:30 • Sun. 12:00 - 3:00 • Closed Mon. Jan., Feb., Cafe open Fri., Sat., and Sun. Store Hours Tues. - Sat. 10:00 - 5:30 • Sun. 12:00 - 4:00 • Closed Mon. 4942 Loomis Road • Rushville, NY 14544 800-716-2276 • (585) 554-3154 www.loomisbarn.com Please call for directions.

Circle Reader Service Number 126

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(“Book Look” continued on page 56)

With just one visit, you’ll be enchanted by our winery with its exceptional wine tasting bar and spectacular view of Keuka Lake.

• Award Winning Wines • Daily Tours and Tastings • One-of-a-kind Gift Shop • Live Music Every Weekend • Beautiful Location for Weddings and Receptions • Delicious Deli Corner and Dining on the Terrace Visit our website, www.heronhill.com, for upcoming events.

Open Year-Round Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5 Call ahead for groups of 15 or more 1-800-441-4241 9301 County Route 76 Hammondsport, New York 14840

where first-time novelist Kate Larrabee has lived for six years. Harley and his new Russian emigrant wife, Sonia must adjust to caring for his elderly mother in their new home. The domestic tension is heightened when Harley encounters his high school girlfriend who appears to be in an abusive marriage. When the woman’s husband is killed in a fishing accident on the lake, Harley faces the uncertainty as to whether his old friend was involved with her husband’s death.

The author’s suspenseful tale holds the reader’s interest throughout. The novel’s characters are well-drawn and their lives feel authentic. Larrabee skillfully peels back the layers of Harley’s life. Past romances and memories of his parents and their marriage are interwoven with Harley’s present dilemma of wanting to help his friend while keeping his wife’s trust.

Circle Reader Service Number 121

Small Wonder Squaw Island, Canandaigua Lake Dr. Preston E. Pierce, 2003, Paperback, 36 pages, $15.00.

Published by the Ontario County Historical Society, Canandaigua (585) 394-4975

S

Circle Reader Service Number 119

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quaw Island, with its familiar irregular outline of trees at the northern end of Canandaigua Lake, remains an enduring natural attraction for boaters, artists, and environmentalists, among others. With numerous black-andwhite and color illustrations, Small Wonder Squaw Island, Canandaigua Lake aims to separate fact from folklore while highlighting the island’s unique scientific value.

Author Dr. Preston Pierce acknowledges the island is a reminder of our Native American heritage.

However, he disputes the often-repeated story of how the island got its name as a refuge for Indian women during the Sullivan Expedition of 1799, basing his conclusion on research into contemporary military accounts.

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The author, a former social studies teacher and current Ontario County historian, turns his attention to the unique natural phenomenon, “oncolites,” popularly called “water biscuits” found around the shores of Squaw Island. These lime-carbonate formations, which soften and crumble when dried, occur at less than a half dozen places in the world. A study completed in 1900 by a paleontologist and director of the New York State Museum on these formations is reprinted here.

The book also discusses early lakeshore beautification efforts which included Squaw Island, the ongoing efforts to deal with the erosion of the island by local citizens, and most recently, the role of the Squaw Island Preservation Society in saving this small but highly scenic natural attraction.

Cornell Then & Now

By Ronald E. Ostman and Harry Littell, 2003, Paperback, 160 pages, $29.95.

Published by McBooks Press, Ithaca (607) 272-2114

sity’s past with identical scenes from the present day. Especially appealing features include a 42-inch aerial panoramic centerfold and sweeping vistas of Cornell’s 1902 and 2001 landscape. The book also includes some of the natural wonders of the Ithaca area. The addition of an index and campus and area maps make the book easy to use.

Harry Littell, Cornell graduate and photographer of Ithaca Then & Now (reviewed in Life in the Finger Lakes, Winter 2002) has collaborated with Dr. Ronald Ostman, professor and chair of the Department of Communication at Cornell, to trace the evolution of the campus. Sometimes the changes are dramatic. Today the modern Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art, whose design by I.M. Pei has been highly praised, contrasts with the photo of Morse Hall. Named for inventor Samuel F. B. Morse, this late 19th century building once stood in the same location on campus. A casualty of an early 20th century fire, Morse Hall was eventually torn down in 1954. The Johnson Museum opened in 1973 and, according to the book, offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the campus on its fifth floor.

Other Cornell locations remain unchanged. Uris Library, for example, with its cathedral-style floor plan is still a haven of booklovers. The authors note that Cornell was the first university library in the nation to encourage undergraduates to check out books.

C

ornell Then & Now will be a source of pleasure for anyone who has attended or been connected with Cornell University. The volume offers 200 high-quality photographs from the univerCircle Reader Service Number 140

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More books of historic photos

¦ 24 hour ATM

and

Internet Banking:

Addison • (607) 359-2251 Bath • (607) 776-2156 Canandaigua • (585) 394-7200 Cato • (315) 626-2132 Corning 150 W. Market St. • (607) 962-2461 N. Corning 331 W. Pulteney St. • (607) 937-5471 Geneva • (315) 789-7700 Geneva Town & Country (Atm only) Hammondsport • (607) 569-2188 Interlaken • (607) 532-8333 Moravia • (315) 497-3047 Newark 140 S. Main St. • (315) 331-3030 Newark Plaza 710 W. Miller St. • (315) 331-3032 Naples • (585) 374-2827 Nichols • (607)699-7424 Ovid • (607) 869-9637 Owego • (607) 687-8125 Penn Yan 151 Main St. • (315) 536-3331 Penn Yan 272 Lake St. • (315) 536-8104 Rushville • (585) 554-6322 Seneca Falls Downtown • (315) 568-5821 Skaneateles • (315) 685-8324 Waterloo • (315) 539-9261 Watkins Glen • (607) 535-2702

A Gathering of Memories: Images and Recollections of Wayne County, New York

By Andrea T. Evangelist, 2003 Paperback, 245 pages, $25.00.

Printed at Erie Park Press, Clyde, for Wayne County Historical Society, Lyons (315) 946-3943

T

hese two titles are grouped together because of their similar format: numerous historic photographs of local subjects accompanied by informative captions and text. Both provide hours

Put purchasing clout in your ATM card with COMMUNITY BANK’s VISA ™ Debit Card.

www.communitybankna.com

MEMBER FDIC

Circle Reader Service Number 111

Finger Lakes Headquarters for

The Finger Lakes Most Complete Model Train Shop Model Trains in Scales N, HO, O • Rockets Thomas the Tank • Accessories

501 Exchange St. • Geneva • 315-781-6397 (next to Cinema Theater)

Mon-Sat 10-5 • Thurs ’til 9pm Circle Reader Service Number 124

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Images of America: Geneva

By Charles Bauder, Heather Hawkins, John Marks, and others, 2003, Paperback, 128 pages, $19.99.

Published by Arcadia Publishing for Geneva Historical Society, Geneva (315) 789-5151

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W INTER E VENTS

ON THE

C AYUGA W INE T RAIL

H

ere are a few additional titles you may want to peruse: 15

The Iroquois Confederacy: Legends and Stories

By Emerson Klees, 2003.

(Overview of migration of Native Americans to Northeast and history of the six nations.)

Friends of the Finger Lakes Publishing www.fingerlakes.com

Holiday Shopping Spree December 6 & 7, 2003

1 2 3 4 5 6

14

7 8

Wineries of the Finger Lakes Region

By Emerson Klees (2000 edition reviewed in Life in the Finger Lakes, Winter 2003.) revised edition, 2003 Friends of the Finger Lakes Publishing www.fingerlakes.com Wayne County Troops in the Civil War: Letters from the Front

By R.L. Murray, 2003 (Letters from local Civil War soldiers published in Wayne County newspapers.)

(315) 594-2019 www.nyincivilwar.com Children, Old Women and Shepherds

By Donald E. Melville, 2002 (Collection of stories by humorist and religious-fiction writer.)

America House Publishers. www.PublishAmerica.com Scenes of Monroe and Ontario Counties Past & Present Featuring Canandaigua Lake and Squaw Island

By Anne Peacock-Jacobs, 2003.

(Catalogue from 2003 exhibit at Mill Gallery & Art Center, Honeoye Falls.)

(585) 624-7740

13

Mardi Gras

9

February, 21 & 22, 2004

10

11

12

11 22 3

44 55 66 77 88 99 10 10 1111 12 12 1313 14 14 1515

Swedish Hill Vineyard Lakeshore Winery Knapp Vineyards Goose Watch Winery Cayuga Ridge Winery Thirsty Owl Wine Co. Hosmer Winery Sheldrake Point Vineyards Lucas Vineyards Americana Vineyards Bellwether Hard Cider Six Mile Creek Vineyards King Ferry Winery Long Point Winery Montezuma Winery

1-800-684-5217

www.cayugawinetrail.com Circle Reader Service Number 106

4 miles south of the City of Geneva on Route 14 South, set within 64 acres of grounds which include a wooded area with a woodland nature trail and spectacular views overlooking the eastern shore of Seneca Lake and beyond, “Cobtree� offers Deluxe Self-Catering Family Accommodations for visitors to the Finger Lakes region of New York state.

This recently remodeled Colonial Style farmhouse offers accommodations for up to 10 people. Please visit our website at www.cobtree.com for further information.

Circle Reader Service Number 110

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Peacock Oriental Antique Museum

Holiday Traditions Dec. 14th • 12-5 pm Come enjoy FREE admission, quilt exhibits, refreshments and entertainment in Historic Auburn, NY Toll Free: 877/343-0002 www.TourAuburnNY.com

at the Historic Lower Mill 61 N. Main Street Honeoye Falls, NY 585-624-7740 585-624-6058

700 Chinese & Japanese Artifacts

• • • • • •

Cayuga Museum Harriet Tubman Home Schweinfurth Memorial Art Center Seward House Ward O’Hara Agricultural Museum Willard Memorial Chapel

For additional information on Cayuga County events, attractions and accommodations call:

800/499-9615 315/255-1658

www.tourcayuga.com

Circle Reader Service Number 105

from Han Dynasty to WWII (206 B.C. to 1945) Includes an Unusual Collection of Various Forms of Peacocks

HOLIDAY TIME! Drink in the company of family and friends at your place or ours!

Tuesday-Friday 10am-5pm Weekends 12 noon-5pm

FREE Admission

Sun, Fri, 10-5 & Sat 10-9 9934 Rte. 414, Hector, NY 1-800-803-7135 www.standingstonewines.com Circle Reader Service Number 139

Circle Reader Service Number 134

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of enjoyment for those familiar with the locations and for newcomers eager to learn more about the area.

Arcadia Publishing’s “Images of America” series previously published views from many communities around New York State, but this is their first focusing on Geneva. Drawn primarily from the collection of the Geneva Historical Society, the images mingle the familiar with some rarely seen views of the city at the head of Seneca Lake. Organized thematically, there are over 200 vintage images of industrial and commercial pursuits, transportation, local schools, churches, famous Genevans, and the lake, among others.

Architectural views range from familiar landmarks like the Smith Opera House, still a center for performing arts, to those that have disappeared, like the Temple Theater formerly located on Exchange Street.

A Gathering of Memories: Images and Recollections of Wayne County, New York is organized by communities from Arcadia to Wolcott and includes a helpful index. Additional chapters cover people, farming, the canal, snow, disasters such as wrecks, fires and floods, as well as culture in the form of music and theater. What is special about this county pictorial history, written by the Wayne County Historical Society’s Executive Director, Andrea Evangelist, is the addition of personal recollections by county residents. Called “memories,” these accounts lend fresh interpretation to many of the over 500 images. What may be unique in this pictorial history is the inclusion of a few individuals who broke the law, such as train robber Oliver Curtis Perry who stole a steam locomotive in Lyons to elude capture, only to be pursued by local residents on an express train.

Laurel C. Wemett is a correspondent for the Messenger-Post Newspapers in Canandaigua. She owns a gift shop named Cat’s in the Kitchen and lives in Canandaigua.

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(“Skiing” continued from page 17) Six lifts, including two quads, help reduce lift lines so you get even more time on the slopes. The Comet Express is their high-speed quad that will get you to the 1,200-foot summit in just over four minutes. The quad is one of the reasons why Bristol is able to transport more than 6,600 skiers and snowboarders per hour.

Bristol Mountain has four ski shops, a state-of-the-art rental center, incredible ski instructors (such as my friend Barb Strait), and two base lodges which serve a variety of fare, ranging from hamburgers and fries to more discriminating international tastes. Bristol also has a full-service daycare, seasonal or daily locker rental, and ski-and-stay packages. One of the most exciting features at Bristol, though, has to be the Summit Demo Center.

The Summit Demo Center is a unique opportunity for skiers to not only see the latest in ski technology, but also to take the latest and greatest out for a spin. All 13 manufacturers, in conjunction with four area ski shops, Ski Magazine and Bristol Mountain, have made this innovative center the best place to try it before you buy the coolest ski gear out there.

W

ith new ski technology creating less fatigue, warmer and more comfortable ski apparel, better snowmaking and slope-grooming equipment, and two incredible ski resorts, there’s no excuse not to get out there this winter and enjoy the finest skiing in the region.

Whether you’re new to skiing, have been out of the sport for a while, or are an expert skier who gets the most out of each winter, the numerous ski slopes in the Finger Lakes area are sure to fill your winter with skiing enjoyment.

Kimberly is a freelance writer from Hemlock. In addition to a rekindled love for skiing, she enjoys scuba diving, boating, and the many other outdoor activities the region holds. She has been blessed with a loving husband and two wonderful children.

• FULL SERVICE FLY FISHING SHOP • FREE SHIPPING ON ORVIS CATALOG ORDERS • CLOTHING FOR MEN & WOMEN • GUIDE SERVICES • COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAPPING 129. S. S. Main Main St. St. Canandaigua, Canandaigua, NY NY 14424 14424 129.

585-396-3010 585-396-3010 900 Panorama Panorama Trail Trail Rochester, Rochester, NY NY 14625 14625 900 585-248-8390 585-248-8390 www.panoramaoutfitters.com www.panoramaoutfitters.com Circle Reader Service Number 133

‘Tis The Chiropractic Season Rid yourself of those minor aches & complaints

Before Old Man Winter sets you back!

To Schedule Your Exam & Adjustment

Naumann Chiropractic One Logan Street • Auburn, NY Receive stretching instructions before you tackle those winter chores AND Rehab measures should you over work muscles or injure your back

DAYS • EVENINGS • SATURDAYS

315-253-7961 Most Insurance Plans Accepted Circle Reader Service Number 130

Circle Reader Service Number 107

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O F F

T H E

E A S E L

American Memories: Home for the Holidays, Oil, 11˝ x 18˝

Bill Hopkins: “The Artist as a Poet”

By Kirk House

B

ill Hopkins is a poet in paint. Although his corpus includes such pieces as the official portrait of New York State’s Education Chancellor, his own self-evaluation is, “I’m a landscape painter.”

Bill, a western New York native, has already concluded that upstate has more scenes, and more stories, than he can ever hope to paint. He has lately been seizing the region’s attention with paintings reflecting the area’s rich and colorful history: mule-drawn barges on New York’s canal system, steamboats on the lakes, and Iroquois in the days when all this land was theirs.

“I go out on a limb,” he admits, even after scouring local archives for documentation on scenery, buildings, and equipment. “It’s a devilish affair when you don’t have one blasted thing to go on.”

Two recent works that have sparked considerable enthusiasm are “Moonlight Memories” and “Champagne Nights,” unusual nighttime renderings of Keuka Lake during the late 19th century. By his skillful use of light, Bill transforms the old industrial waterfront of Hammondsport into a warm, welcoming gathering of good friends. “The placement and the friendliness and the warmth and the life of it all, that’s critical.”

For both these paintings, Bill had the advantage of considerable photodocumentation, both on the setting and on the steamships. In addition to that, the Gothic revival 1877 Bath & Hammondsport depot is still a prominent feature on the Hammondsport waterfront.

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The depot also graces Bill’s unusual snow scene, American Memories: Home for the Holidays. Snow, sleigh, and the depot’s elegance all soften the setting, transporting viewers to a hushed, semi-magical world. It proves again Bill’s unique ability as an illustrator and storyteller.

The Catharine Valley Trail uses one of Bill’s moonlit canal scenes, “Dance Hall Nights, Historic Millport,” as an identifying symbol for the hiking and biking path south of Montour Falls.

Bill freely claims the 19th-century Hudson River School, emphasizing New York State subjects with delicate atmospherics, as one of his main sources for learning in his field. He has lately disciplined himself to lay on tree leaves with brush strokes, rather than with pouncing. “Over time,” he warns. “As much as you want to race to the finish line, you can’t in this business. Layout’s everything.”

William F. Hopkins’ work is available year-round in his studio at The Francis Hall House Bed & Breakfast, 526 West Church Street in Elmira. Bill and his wife Carolyn also operate Finger Lakes Heritage: Keuka Moon — the W.F. Hopkins Signature Gallery in the historic depot on the Hammondsport waterfront. From May through October you may see and purchase Bill’s original works and limited-edition signature prints.

Visit the Keuka Moon Gallery at #1 Water Street, Hammondsport, New York 14840. Call Bill at (607)734-9780, send an email to keukamoon@aol.com, or visit the website at www.keukamoongallery.com

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Our roots in this community run deep

Branch Locations: Main Office 35 William Street Lyons, NY 14489 (315) 946-4871 Lyons Branch Corner Routes 14 & 31 Lyons, NY 14489 (315) 946-4505 Clyde Branch 4 Williams Street Clyde, NY 14433 (315) 923-2100 Geneva Branch 41 Seneca Street Geneva, NY 14456 (315) 781-5000 Jordan Branch 2 North Main Street Jordan, NY 13080 (315) 689-9530

That’s why every success of yours is a success for us The Lyons National Bank is founded on sound banking principles and a little something extra the big banks won’t ever have – the rock-solid values of the community where we live and do business. Our success over the last century is the result of our commitment to providing friendly, one-to-one hometown service to each and every customer.

When you bank with The Lyons National Bank, you can be sure we’re looking out for your interests.

With a complete range of financial products and services, plus friendly and experienced personnel to serve you, we’re the source for all your personal and commercial banking needs.

Hometown banking means we’re committed to the success of our friends and neighbors in the Finger Lakes – because our success is rooted in yours.

Call us at (315) 946-4871, visit us on line at www.lyonsbank.com or, better yet, stop in and see us for more information.

ONE FOCUS

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ONE COMMITMENT

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ONE-TO-ONE SERVICE

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Macedon Branch P & C Supermarket Macedon Commons Macedon, NY 14502 (315) 986-9681 Newark Branch 750 W. Miller Street Newark, NY 14513 (315) 331-0296 Ontario Branch Tops Plaza 6256 Furnace Road Ontario, NY 14519 (315) 524-9661 Wolcott Branch 5996 New Hartford Street Wolcott, NY 14590 (315) 594-6002 www.lyonsbank.com

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Wanted to be an astronaut.

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At Marvin, what you want is always within reach. Each of our wood and clad wood windows and doors are made to order. You choose the style and design options that make it your own.

Visit www.marvin.com or call us at 1-888-537-8261 (in Canada, 1-800-263-6161). www.marvin.com

©2003 Marvin Windows and Doors. All rights reserved. ®Registered trademark of Marvin Windows and Doors.

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