Nothing Compares to K'Gari (Fraser Island)

Make 2021 Your Year For Camping on The Largest Sand Island in The World ...

After spending most of her childhood school holidays camping on Fraser Island, Jessica Palmer reflects on her last trip with her own kids and how after all this time, nothing compares to World Heritage Listed K’Gari...

In typical Aussie style, the group of six men beside me are using boogie boards as a drink float. Every single one of them are looking towards the top of the sand dune that borders one side of the emerald green lake we are standing in. The other sides of the lake are bordered by thick green forest. I also look up to see what all the fuss is about and at first, I don’t see anything but the impossibly steep sand dune.

Suddenly, a teenager appears on a boogie board, riding it much like a surf board and hurtling down the dune towards the lake at an alarming speed. There are signs warning not to do this, but the thrill of the ride is clearly far to appealing.

A great cheer of encouragement is given by the men in the lake. He holds steady until the last few metres and just before he hits the water, the board flies out from under his feet, landing somewhere in the middle of the lake. He expertly army rolls the last few metres into the water. It seems he has done this before.

Lake Wabby

Credit - Tourism & Events QLD

“Nearly made it this time, mate”, his dad yells out. A younger boy with bright pink hair passes him the board in awe, and off he trudges up the sand dune for another attempt. Not before sneaking a backwards glance at a nearby group of young, mostly female, backpackers to make sure they were watching.

Backpackers and energetic young men aren’t the only visitors here at Lake Wabby on Fraser Island. There is a spattering of families, couples and singles of various ages. Lake Wabby can be enjoyed by anyone who can manage the trek in through the forest and over the sand dunes.

Lake Wabby could possibly be one of the most unique opportunities for wild swimming around. Located on the eastern side of World Heritage Listed Fraser Island (aka K’gari), it’s known as both a window lake and a barrage lake.

A window lake occurs when the ground level falls below the water table. A barrage lake occurs when the water that flows from a natural spring is blocked by a sand mass. In this case, the sand mass is the gigantic Hammerstone Sandblow, which is slowly taking over the lake. It is estimated that one hundred years from now, there is a good chance that Lake Wabby will no longer exist. Touching the bottom of Lake Wabby is easier said than done. At a maximum depth of just under 12 metres, it’s only a few steps in before the water is up around my chin.

My kids are playing at the edges of the water, enthralled by the older kids sliding down the sand dunes into the lake.

Jumping into Eli Creek

Credit - Jessica Palmer

To be honest, I wasn’t even sure if they would go in. Unlike the majority of other lakes on Fraser Island, which are too acidic to support much life, Lake Wabby provides habitat to several species of fish.

My son wasn’t too keen on the tiny fish that seem to nibble on your skin if you stop moving around and float peacefully for longer than a minute. However, after watching his younger sister take a flying leap from the edge of the water to land on her belly, smack in the middle of a school of fish and come up giggling, he soon forgets his earlier fears.

Lake Wabby isn’t the only unique feature on this fascinating island. K’gari is home to half of the worlds freshwater perched lakes, including Lake Boomanjin, the world’s largest, with its deep red tannin stained waters.

A perched lake is formed when organic matter, such as leaves, bark and dead plants, gradually builds up and hardens in a depression, forming a sort of giant swimming pool filled with rain and water run-off.

I would confidently say that it has the most beautiful perched lakes in the world with Lake McKenzie and Lake Birrabeen being hot contenders. Both of these lakes feature dazzling white sand and impossibly clear water that fades into a deep blue.

Lake McKenzie

Credit - Tourism & Events QLD

K’gari is also where rainforests grow out of the sand, ancient dune systems are still evolving, and where a large section of the eastern beach is considered an official ‘highway’. There is an 80km per hour speed limit, the usual road rules, and a complete and utter lack of any bitumen or gravel.

Don’t let the beautiful surrounds lull you into a false sense of security though. Extra care needs to be taken due to the incoming tide, planes landing, freshwater creeks that flow out into the ocean, and people playing on and fishing off the sand.

We set up for the day at the largest of these freshwater creeks, Eli Creek. Finding the perfect spot can be tricky unless you arrive early, but we timed it right, reversed our 4WD up to the creek, and rolled out the awning. The group next to us placed their camp chairs in the creek, which is no deeper than my knees along this stretch.

Whilst the mums in the group were slathering sunscreen on the little ones, all of the men were staring at something behind our car. They were watching the progress of a couple that thought it would be a good idea to tow a regular caravan up the beach and had subsequently, bogged themselves in the soft sand behind us.

A high clearance four wheel drive is recommended here. A stock standard fourwheel drive will suffice, but a low clearance caravan doesn’t stand a chance. They probably should have left it back over on the mainland and opted for a tent or a hotel.

Floating down Eli Creek

Credit - Tourism & Events QLD

As is the nature of the residents and visitors on Fraser Island, the men quickly assisted when it was realised they weren’t getting themselves out anytime soon.

“We come here every year after Christmas”, one of the mums informs me as we chit chat in our camp chairs, our feet in the creek.

Despite the warm weather, the water is a little chilly. It’s so cold, that a few people have pushed the base of their water bottles and soft drink cans into the sand under their chairs to ensure they are kept at optimal chilled temperature.

This seems like a genius idea to me and I also use the cold water as an alternative to the esky. Also, I now don’t have to keep getting up when the kids are thirsty.

This well-known beach highway is officially known as seventy-five-mile beach. There are plenty of other unique features along this sandy stretch including the Maheno Shipwreck and the Pinnacles.

The Maheno Shipwreck

Credit - Tourism & Events QLD

Further up are the Champagne Pools, a natural swimming hole created by rocks, and the rugged northern section of Fraser Island. The northern point is referred to as the Sandy Cape and features a lighthouse and some interesting relics from WWII.

Inland tracks lead to the many different lakes, scenic drives, Central Station and ancient rainforests. A lot of visitors take the opportunity to explore the island by 4WD, preferring to camp and experience the great outdoors. If this isn’t your style, don’t feel disheartened. There is resort-style accommodation offerings on the island as well as private house rentals.

Kingfisher Bay is popular for resort style accommodation and is the main landing point for the barge service. However, there is great accommodation at both Eurong Beach Resort and Happy Valley as well.

If you don’t have your own 4WD, there are plenty of 4WD tours available. Tours are available either as a passenger on a 4WD bus, or in a tag-a-long tour where you do the driving.

There are not many places in this world that I will visit time and time again, but Fraser Island is one of those special places. From the friendly barman who offered up his own fishing gear when we broke a rod at Happy Valley, to the wild swimming in stunning lakes and the magic of standing amidst an ancient rainforest literally growing in sand. From the large goannas that would casually stroll through the campsite after breakfast, to the curious turtles at lake Allom and the blissful 15 minutes at the Champagne Pools where we were the only people there.

This place is truly special and touches your soul in a way that very few places in the world can.

Driving the inland tracks on K'Gari/Fraser Island

Credit - Jessica Palmer

GETTING TO K’GARI / FRASER ISLAND

Located 360km north of Brisbane in QLD, K’Gari is just a short 40-minute boat ride from Hervey Bay.

Important links for vehicle and camping permits, dingo fenced camping areas and how to be dingo safe are included in the full article on ISSUU.

Dingo on the beach

Credit - Tourism & Events QLD